Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => DC Motors (Brushed) and Speed Controllers => Topic started by: richald on January 21, 2014, 04:23:47 pm
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Posted this to Electronize the other day, so far with no response . . .
I have an Electronize 43HVR ESC which I bought some years ago as a kit.
I assembled it with no problems, and it has worked fine ever since - after a few
years in my spares box, I am about to install it in a Mountfleet Sealight Puffer -
Length 32", Weight 27lbs, 12v SLA Battery.
I lost the original instructions long ago! and while the ESC still works fine I have
forgotten what the long red and orange wire loop taped to the servo lead was
there for.
Can you remind me of its purpose?
And, would it be OK to detach it from the servo lead, and coil it up and clip it next
to the body of the ESC?
An electronic copy of the original instructions and a circuit diagram would be
appreciated if you could manage them.
Does anybody know anything about these ESCs? and able
to answer my questions?
Ta Muchly in anticipation
Richard
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Assuming you have the Red/Black/White servo lead with JR/Futaba style plug as well as this Red/Orange pair of leads, its for your on/off switch. The HVR denotes a battery eliminator function, meaning no need for an Rx battery pack. So to turn the model on and off you can fit a simple switch to these two wires, or twist and solder them together, unplugging the battery to turn off the model.
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UBN
I'll have a look at that - the on/off switching doesn't ring any bells though!
Richard
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Same speed controller in my tug and the orange and red lead is indeed wired to a switch which is my main, on and off switch. The battery stays connected all the time then that switch turns of the radio gear and the motor if it's running.
I have a manual here with a circuit diagram in it, I'll try taking a picture and posting it here if it helps.
Craig.
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What the hell, I'll post it anyway.... :)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/photo-1.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/photo-1.jpg.html)
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Thanks Craig for that picture!
It answers all my questions! - I'll reinstate the on/off facility - it saves a lot of faffing
about disconnecting batteries.
I'll be using 2 x 6v SLAs by the way, basically thats because its what I've already got -
investing in 12v batteries and charger will have to wait!
Richard
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No problem, Glad it helped. :-)
In my tug I have two, 6 volt SLA batteries too but I managed to wire them up to a double pole, double throw switch so you can have the switch in one position that supplies 12V to the speed controller, an off position then a 6V position.
I charge both the batteries together too on the 6v setting on the switch.
I can't remember how I wired that up but sure I could figure it out again if needed. It's useful to give the option of sedate running for longer or speed tug for shorter periods! :-)
Craig.
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Craig
If you can remember how you wired up that switch - I'd greatly appreciate it.
I have been thinking about trying to achieve something similar.
Thanks
Richard
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I'll scratch my head and do some sketches at work tomorrow and see if I can remember how I did it. If not I'll pop next door and ask the electronic group, sure they can work it out! :-)
Craig.
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Ta !
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I was out in my workshop briefly today and I stumbled across the exact same
Electronize 43HVR unit! I too have no circuit diagram for connections so this
flurry of postings has by sheer luck been very useful!
Thanks to all.
N...
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Right, Been thinking this morning and I think the attached circuit diagram will work to give the option of 6v or 12v supply to the speed controller.
The thing in the middle of the diagram is a double pole, double throw switch so it has three positions, on-off-on and being double pole it is essentially two switches next to each other. They have 6 terminals on them and the one I used is this one from RS. It's the big one on the left in the picture.
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/toggle-switches/0350254/ (http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/toggle-switches/0350254/)
You need to charge when the switch is in the 6v position with a 6v charger and as you are charging both batteries together I guess you double the charging time for a single battery. I made a wire lever arm that covers the charging socket when the switch is in the 12v socket to prevent me plugging it in wrong but looking at the circuit nothing bad would happen if you did charge on the 12 volt setting as the connections wouldn't be made to the correct terminals. You wouldn't charge anything though!
The diagram is below, hope it makes sense and before any electronic engineers tell me I haven't used the correct ISO symbol for something, I'm a mechanical engineer, I don't normally do electronics! :-)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Circuitdiagram.png) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Circuitdiagram.png.html)
Craig.
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Thanks for that Craig! - it is a bit of a mindbender when you first look at it!
I am going to print a copy of the diagram out and pencil in the two circuits
I think I may have a DPDT switch in my 'spares' box - in any case I normally
check out switch contacts with a meter before I commit to anything - like smoke!
My background is computer software not electronics -
I tell people that when it comes to electronics, "I know enough to be dangerous"
Richard