Model Boat Mayhem
Mess Deck: General Section => Other Hobbies and Interests => Topic started by: essex2visuvesi on January 26, 2014, 11:34:23 pm
-
My son wants to Build an Rc version of this
(http://image.streetrodderweb.com/f/events/1006sr_grand_national_roadster_show_history_of_the_race_car_exhibit/33405213/1006sr_06_o%2B1927_ford_t_roadster%2Bso_cal_speed_shop_belly_tank_lakester.jpg)
We can fabricate the mechanics but need someone to make a mould and lay up the body as fibreglassing is something I have never done before.
I can loan a 1:18th scale model of the car for research purposes.
Anyone fancy a challenge?
Obviously all expenses and beer token will be covered
-
It's a "drop tank" racer! They were very popular in the late 40's as there were thousands of surplus tanks on the market. The mould should be really easy to build as the halves are symetrical and you only need to make one half. Use plaster over a foam core and scrape the "green" plaster to shape. It's kitchen table do-able.
-
I've been thinking about this job since my first reply. How big a body shell were you thinking of?
-
Why Fibre Glass? Should be able to turn a "Plug" on a wood turning lathe and Vac form a couple of half shells.
Regards Ian.
-
We are thinking of 1:10 scale as we have loads of parts motors etc.
Plan is to use some of the parts from a retired RC touring car, other parts will be CNC machined by my son at school
motor will be a 3turn 3650 brushless (7900Kv) on 7.4 or 11.1V (motor is rated for 3s lipos) and a beefy ESC from a 1:8th buggy
I did think of Vac forming but I thought Fibreglass would be easier
-
I did think of Vac forming but I thought Fibreglass would be easier
If you have a local manufacturer of UPVC plastic door panels . . . . .
Regards Ian.
-
So depending on which drop tank you use, the 150 gallon tank would scale out at just under 326mm long and the 305 gallon would be 380 mm long. I suspect the larger tank was used for the racer. That would be a relatively easy turning job to produce a vac forming pattern. The advantage of vac forming is that once you have the pattern, replacement bodies could be knocked out as required without the mess of GRP. Another advantage would be that there is probably a vac former at your lad's school.
The prominant seam could be added by glueing round section at the join line. Depending on how soon you need it I could turn the pattern for you but I'd need a couple of weeks and you'd have to let me know which version you need. PM me to discuss further.
-
Cheaper still, you only need one half turned O0 O0 O0
And vac forming is like shelling peas and just as quick. :-))
Regards Ian.
-
Cheaper still, you only need one half turned O0 O0 O0
And vac forming is like shelling peas and just as quick. :-))
Regards Ian.
You'd get two halves anyway, if you turned it. So not a lot cheaper. If you CNC milled the single half, you could vac form it twice but with two halves it would be more economical with the plastic.
-
It's a "drop tank" racer! They were very popular in the late 40's as there were thousands of surplus tanks on the market. The mould should be really easy to build as the halves are symetrical and you only need to make one half. Use plaster over a foam core and scrape the "green" plaster to shape. It's kitchen table do-able.
I read somewhere originally those drop tanks were not much more than Papier Mâché..?
-
I read somewhere originally those drop tanks were not much more than Papier Mâché..?
USAAC drop tanks were Aluminium (sorry- Aloominum) or Steel. A lot the steel ones are still around but the ally ones are real rarities and goes for a fortune. Paper tanks were fitted to P47 thunderbolt fighter, manufactured bt Bowaters the toilet paper people.
The Germans produced plywood tanks especially the so called "slipper" tanks as a result of material shortages. They were impregnated with resin to make them fuel proof but I bet pilots were very glad when they were empty so they could be jettisoned.
Edited due to confused memory!
-
They were impregnated with resin to make them fuel proof but I bet pilots were very glad when they were empty so they could be jettisoned.
Never heard of "Paxolin" ? SRBP (Synthetic Resin Bonded PAPER)
Regards Ian.
Other one is SRBF . . . Fibre, make gearwheels out of that one.
-
We are thinking of 1:10 scale as we have loads of parts motors etc.
Plan is to use some of the parts from a retired RC touring car, other parts will be CNC machined by my son at school
motor will be a 3turn 3650 brushless (7900Kv) on 7.4 or 11.1V (motor is rated for 3s lipos) and a beefy ESC from a 1:8th buggy
I did think of Vac forming but I thought Fibreglass would be easier
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,43713.msg467263/topicseen.html#msg467263 (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,43713.msg467263/topicseen.html#msg467263)
See Subcultures 1st post of his mini sub.
Len.
-
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,43713.msg467263/topicseen.html#msg467263 (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,43713.msg467263/topicseen.html#msg467263)
See Subcultures 1st post of his mini sub.
Len.
Yep that's what spured me to post this one
-
An interesting update to this....
Adam (son) contacted the So Cal Speedshop vi email explaining what he wanted to do and they replied :) They are sending him some DVDs of photographs and engineering drawings to help with the build.
They are also keen to see the build and finished product
-
Would these be of any use?
http://firepowerrc.com/1_8_5_p-38_tank.htm
1:8.5 scale, 16.25" long.
Scott C.
-
http://firepowerrc.com/1_8_corsair_tanks.htm (http://firepowerrc.com/1_8_corsair_tanks.htm)
-
If the body was vac formed in the right way then the seam could be part of each side as a flange. This would provide three benefits.
1. It gives you a wide surface area on which to apply glue.
2. It would make cutting the parts out from their sheets. A pair of compasses with a soft pencil or a thin permanent marker drawn around the circumference and then cutting along this will give you a tidier edge.
3. The top detail will be neater if vac formed from below rather than from the side meaning that you will not have an unsightly seam to fill and sand. Think old airfix kits where the fuselage halves had that horrible inconsistency requiring loads of filling with putty and sanding.
The plug can still be turned and then the top detail can be added from foam or wood, faired and sanded to blend into the top body half.
Just a thought.
-
Hi thanks for all the responses, we are awaiting delivery of a 3 P38 belly tanks from the website Scrampb posted. (Im sure we'll mess up so it was as cheap to post 3 as it was 1)
Once these arrive we will start on the chassis and drivetrain design. We are going to try and make the exterior as scale looking as possible but the the chassis will be carbon fibre and machined alloy.
This plan however is posing some design concerns when it comes to making up the front end to look right while maintaining structural integriity.
I'm going to start a proper build log when we start building
-
Glad to have been able to help- best of luck on the build.. ought to be an interesting model to watch take shape.