Model Boat Mayhem
Mess Deck: General Section => Tugs and Towing => Topic started by: radiojoe on June 21, 2014, 11:37:39 am
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I recently acquired a part started Model slipway Envoy class tug kit, I don't know the chap who started to build her, it was offered to me by a third/fourth party and the price was just a no brainer, which was being donated to a local organisation, so I bought it unseen, when I picked it up it was a large box with the huge hull on top, when I got it home, the box contained all or most of the fittings the extra armaments pack, a new 12volt lead/acid battery, a new 6volt nimh battery, two new 500 motors, a 12 volt 6-1 geared motor, an m-tronics ESC, brass etchings sheet, 70mm brass prop, I then realised what a bargain I had, the kit it's self had been started, and I mean no disrespect to the guy, but I'm thinking he must have been a novice that had jumped in the deep end and found it too difficult, the shaft/tube had been fitted and seemed to be lined up fairly well, and the rudder had been done but have to say all very untidy the iconic barn door rudder was made by laminating two pieces of plasticard but with flexi epoxy used the result was the rudder was too flexible for this size boat at 44" long also some other parts had been attempted out of sequence like the grp wheelhouse which was unusable, So I decided to scrap everything and start afresh, as the wrong glues had been used on just about everything I was able to salvage some of the parts but the wheelhouse has been cut apart to salvage the alloy window frames/doors, I managed to get the rudder assembly apart without damage to the alloy hinge frame or the hull for rebuilding, I thought I would leave the shaft/tube and just tidy up the exit boss. I shall be building her as HMRT Enigma. Joe.
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Now made a start on the rebuild of the rudder, and shaft tube boss, for the rudder I've used a piece of copper plate laminated between .5 plasticard, with hard epoxy, while that was setting I tidied up the stern tube boss.
I've put my Coventry build on hold as this one is probably going to be a shorter build and Coventry was always meant to be a winter build anyway ans also gives me plenty of time to get the fittings from Sirmar.
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Looking good so far, its going to make a fine model.
I remember being given a similar hull to this round about 1988, it was an admiralty tug hull finished in grey grp. To this day I don't know what happened to it, it just sort of dissapeared from the house!
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Thanks Brian, That's a big old hull to go missing, I think I'd suspect foul play there, maybe SOMBO knows more than she's letting on. O0 {-) {-) {-) .Joe.
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Gradually tidying up the bits that needed it, the rudder is now done with tiller arm and I fitted a retainer to the stock as the rudder was inclined to lift a little, also fitted an greaser as the shaft is be low the water line, and shaped the deck washouts to look a bit better, now need to get some plywood for the new deck and wheelhouse. Joe
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Fitted a support to the forward end of the shaft tube and installed the rudder servo, the control rods are a bit OTT but I was just using up some bits I had, I prefer the parallax set up on large rudders I think it uses the servo torque better, :-)
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I'll be keeping an eye on this build! You never know, I might pick up a few tips! Keep it going :-))
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Got the motor bed done today, I plan on fitting a bulkhead at the deck break but I 'm holding off on that till the set of plans arrive from Model Slipway, is it just me or dose the post take longer these days. :o
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good start joe
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Thanks Mike, after building in 1:96 this seems huge %% :-))
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Yes but must admit I prefer building at the larger scales - 1/48th is a nice scale for building and for sailing. The MS Envoy or Assurance has been on my wish list for a while. Maybe get round to getting one some day but cant justify it to the wife yet given as I have 2 in build and 3 others waiting there turn. Something will have to be sacrificed for me to get an Envoy or a Assurance!!!
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Yes your right there Mike, this one will take a lot rougher waters than my 1:96s, looks like you have your hands full there for some time but at least you won't be bored. :-))
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It looks like the post office machine has gobbled up my set of plans, as it's been nearly two weeks since the order, Model Slipway are kindly sending me a replacement set , I don't want to fit any bulkheads till I check the plans so have not done much more at this time. :-)) Joe.
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Looking great so far Joe. :-))
I built the armed version of this tug a few years ago now and loved every second of the build. You have things pretty much exactly as I built mine even using the same motor. I have two, 6 volt lead acid batteries in mine and a whole load of lead sheet for ballast to get it sitting correctly in the water, a light model it isn't!
Look forward to seeing your progress.
Craig.
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/P1010017-5.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/P1010017-5.jpg.html)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/P1010019-1.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/P1010019-1.jpg.html)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/P1010020-1.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/P1010020-1.jpg.html)
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Really nice build there Craig, yes I'm expecting her to be quite heavy, I'm more used to 1:96 ships but when I was offered this one I couldn't refuse, and because of her war time connection she fits in with my love of building warships and exhibiting them with the Surface Warship Association, she will be a little different to the standard kit because of the parts I've had to scrap, she'll have ply decks, wheelhouse and engine room etc. but hopefully will look the same when finished. :-))
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The replacement plans posted yesterday arrived today, it seems the Post Office can get it right sometimes, and thanks again to Model Slipway for their service.
The main reason I wanted the plans, apart from all the deck detail, was to get the correct beam measurement, I have fitted one bulkhead at the deck break this was mainly to re align the hull which was leaning in on one side, so the bulkhead was made equal each side of the centre line to push the hull back to shape, it could be the hull had been resting on it's side for a long time, but the bulkhead has done it's job, to form the rest of the beam I'll use cross members after the deck bearers are fitted, also fitted is the battery box abutting the bulkhead.
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Great work! :-))
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I've added a sub deck to the bow because I'm fitting anchor hawser tubes and this will secure the top of them better that the relatively thin deck, these hawser tubes will serve no purpose at all, it's just something I fit to all my boats, also fitted the deck bearers and pre fitted the decks, and fitted and tested the R/C gear, keeping it simple, just a two channel on this one.
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Fitted the cross members, marked out and cut out the hatches, I've only cut out the size hatches that I need for access to running gear ballast etc. the two hatches under the bridge and engine room will have up stands and location blocks in the corners to position the structures, the others are flush and will be held down in some way, most likely with elastic bands hooked around pegs in the bottom of the boat, a simple method that I've found effective. :-))
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Looking good Joe
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coming along nicley
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sorry nicely
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Thanks guys, I felt the over hang of the foredeck amidships was a bit too much, so I fitted a dummy bulkhead 22mm further aft, my thoughts are any detail on the bulkhead would be easier to see, with the aft deck bonded in place, I'll build the oil tank rooms and tow hook base before the fore deck is bonded on. :-)
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Finished the tow hook platform etc. and bonded down the foredeck, next I'll finish the flush hatches and fit the upstands to the access hatches, then the fun bit, scratch building the replacement wheelhouse and engine room and trying to make them look like the original GRP mouldings , as close as I can that is. :o
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With the foredeck bonded down I finished all the access hatches with up stands and the flush ones, getting the camber of the deck to match the hatches was a bit of a game, but turned out not too bad, ;)
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Made a start on the replacement wheelhouse, with the camber and all the angles I think it 's going to be the most difficult part of the build, the alloy windows I rescued from the unusable grp wheelhouse needed to be carefully cleaned up and all the filler removed that was used to bog them into holes that were over size, I've used some of the palsticard from the discarded deck to make the upper wheelhouse, It's good to see it coming together and not too far off looking like the original
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Got more done on the wheelhouse front end, and fitted the wing deck sides by laminating one 1mm and one .5mm plasticard and a bit of heat, should look reasonable when painted. added the aft end of the wheelhouse and cut out the nav light recesses, I used solid wood to make the forward companionway housing again should look OK when painted, I'll prime the wheelhouse before fitting the roof so I can fit out the nav room with the wheel, binnacle, telegraph etc rescued from the discarded grp wheelhouse.
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Hello
It seems to me that portholes are put back to front on the hull(shell).
The convex part is IN the hull .
imagine it multiplied by 48
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Yes I had noted this but they were glued in by the guy that started the build before I got the kit, and as you rightly say the wrong way round, he did the same with the portholes on the grp wheelhouse, I tried getting them out of the wheelhouse but did so much damage to the gel coat and the white metal that I decided to leave the ones in the hull, and except the fact the rims are a bit over size, I have got some brass portholes for the new wheelhouse and purposely got the them very slightly over size to make the ones in the hull not appear so bad. %)
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ok2
I understands but it is the detail which kills
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Hi Joe.
It looks like you are really running on this build! I am stuck in a hole with getting the deck on my Sea Trojan but you have given me an indirect push! :-))
What a great job you are doing!!! It does seem that when the deck gets on, all of a sudden, it's a boat!!!
Keep up the great work!
BTW, I would've sorted the portholes in the hull, even if I had to grind them away with a dremel or something.... but that's just me...
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Hello
For it you take a fine sheet steel
You drill the sheet steel in the diameter of the porthole
You put the sheet steel on the hull to protect this one
You remove all which is possible with a portable drill (as for a POP rivet)
You remove the rest from the fine file.
You finish delicately in the very fine file
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You know, that's what I like about this forum, You can't get away with anything, of course you are both right the hull portholes don't look right, because they are the wrong way round the large flange looks ridiculous, so have decided to do something about it, It would have bugged the hell out of me anyway.
Using a counterbore bit I tried boring out one of the alloy portlights on the old wheelhouse, and found the heat from boring released the glue and it popped out, so I did the ones in the hull and got them all out without any damage at all.
I've ordered some 3/16" brass portholes which equates to a 9" glass area in real terms, which I'm going to settle for, and the holes in the new wheelhouse I'll fill and re bore to fit the smaller ports.
Thanks to you both for giving your honest opinion, ultimately I'll be happier with the build. :-)) :-))
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:-))
Here is the happy end!
Now you will be satisfied when you will look at this boat.
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Good man! :-))
I am glad you found a great way to sort it! The sad thing is that you need to buy new port holes! {:-{
I do believe that with the support of the guys and girls on a forum like MBM, you get pushed into producing a model you might've taken shortcuts on and ended up regretting it...
End result, a beautifully build boat!
You're doing so well! I can't wait to see how this turns out..... (with our help!) ;)
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I've given the wheelhouse a light coat of primer to show up any bits that might need filler or even the odd smear of glue that you don't notice when you have various different surfaces, when I've dealt with these I'll make a start on the engine room top.
Joe
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When I got the pre-started kit all the fittings were mixed up in one big bag, so once I got the plans a couple of weeks ago I thought it was time to do an inventory of the fittings, what was the chances of them all being there ?, It turned out that most of them were, however the boat davits were missing along with 4 deck grilles, I had thought of scratch building the davits, but Model Slipway sent the plans with an offer to supply any missing fittings, I took them up on their offer and the davits arrived today, I'm glad I did, they are a nice set of alloy davits of excellent quality, also in the bag was the 4 deck grilles which they didn't charge for, I think good service deserves recognition. My thanks to Model Slipway :-)) :-))
Joe.
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, I think good service deserves recognition. My thanks to Model Slipway :-)) :-))
Joe.
Yes it does Joe but par for the course for MS in my experience. Jackie just excels in making sure the customer is happy. And looking good each update.
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Jackie just excels in making sure the customer is happy.
And I believe that she makes that very well
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Having removed the alloy portholes from the hull I could see why the previous owner had put them the wrong way round, the holes were ragged and over size, and when the new portholes arrived today I could see the holes were going to be too big, so I filled them with P38, this also gave me the opportunity to correct a few that were out of place, the new portholes are Graupner brass and are super quality but not cheap, but when do we count the cost of our hobby, I don't smoke or drink it's got to go somewhere. :-))
Joe.
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{:-{
Aîe Aîe Aîe
These portholes are not portholes for the hull but for the superstructures for yacht
To part them drift nothing has to exceed some hull
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Yes I know the ones in the hull don't normally protrude so I had decided to compromise and remove the protruding ring around the glass on the hull ports to kind of flatten them a bit and paint them with the hull grey and the superstructure ones I'll leave brass to naturally tarnish.
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Do not waste(spoil) portholes which coùtent very expensively
Cut small ends of tubes brass
Stick by the inside with a good thickness of epoxy glue
Two days later file with a very fine file what exceeds outside
Finish with a little filler
Sand very cleanly
And here is
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I've done one of the ports for the hull too make fairly flush, the rim is tapered off to a fine edge, I think they will look OK, I also think there is a tendency in our hobby to get too fussy about correctness which tends to take the fun out of it :((
Joe
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Now Joe are you sure that the portholes on this class had 5 rivet holes or did they have 6? Be an awful shame for somebody to point it out when its finished!
{-) {-) {-) {-) {-) {-) {-) {-)
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Thanks for pointing that out Mike gosh I'd better check that out.
%% {-) {-) {-) {-) {-) {-) {-) {-)
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It is not difficult to do well the first time.
We make a little bit anything to go fast.
There is always somebody to criticize
And we regret
But there it will be already good
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A more important point to ponder here Joe is.....
1. was the fifth mounting point located at 12.00 o'clock?
2. or was this fifth mounting point located @ 06.00 o'clock?
3. did the port hole mounting holes follow a true vertical & horizontal mount?
4. or did the port hole mounting holes follow the true curvature of the hull?
There is a correct answer to each of these questions O0
Derek
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well Derek,
I have to admit I don't know the answers to these questions, but I had intended to fit them with a mounting hole at 12 o clock just because I have an orderly mind, and if that's wrong no doubt someone will point it out %) <*<
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A more important point to ponder here Joe is.....
1. was the fifth mounting point located at 12.00 o'clock?
2. or was this fifth mounting point located @ 06.00 o'clock?
3. did the port hole mounting holes follow a true vertical & horizontal mount?
4. or did the port hole mounting holes follow the true curvature of the hull?
There is a correct answer to each of these questions O0
Derek
But what if the dockyard matey had a good run ashore the night before....this needs to be factored in. I am sure there is a formula that will calculate amount of beer x hours difference between last drink and clock on time - the disposal of fluids through natural body function x SG of said chosen beverage over the grief his missus gave him multiplied by .10% plus or minus to allow for margin of error which could affect where the actual rivet went on the vertical or horizontal plane.
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yer what he said.
%% %% %% %% {-) {-)
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How much better do they look than the originally fitted ones?! They look great!
5 holes, 6 holes... horizontal, vertical.... who cares... I'm sure the above is just banter but, if I was building this and had gone the route you have, then to have some fool point out the aesthetics of the port holes are in-correct to the original boat....
I would take a breath before explaining that this is a very old boat and during her life, she has been refitted many times...
AND I LIKE THEM! so kindly go away! <*<
Very nice work Mr Joe! Keep it up!
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Goodness...sounds like 3 [three] bites from European CARP >>:-( that still infest our Murray river system {:-{
Reading between the lines it would appear obvious that neither have spent a days toil in a shipyard building industry or dockyard
No self respecting trades shipwright would intentionally install a portlight/porthole in anyway other than the intended manner
My questioning comments were not intended to be a criticism ....but a suggestion that there are options here
Paul McCartney wrote some interesting lyrics in his composition ...."The Fool on the Hill" O0 ....could be worth listening to the words
However, as requested, I will say no more on this build..........Derek
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Well said Dave,
But Derek I took your comments only as you intended and not as criticism and you had a point a shipwright would always fit things like portholes in orderly fashion, so please do continue to comment it is most welcome :-)) :-))
Joe
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We had the only set of manufacturer's drawings in existence when we did Envoy and, as far as I remember, they didn't go down to such detail as porthole rivets; it was just a set of lines and a GA drawing. Also the few monochrome photos we could find didn't indicate detail at this level. I suppose I could have asked Tom Gorman (who has forgotten more about full-size British vessels than most of us will ever know) but Lawrie's philosophy has always been to leave off anything where there is doubt, so that the really keen modeller can add detail to the level he requires. Better that than stick something on the plan which is either a guess or just plain wrong.
BTW I am soooooooo glad you dug out those reversed portholes! It's amazing how many models I see with those castings stuck in the wrong way around. I know there's a drawing in all the kits which shows the correct way of fitting - I don't understand why people don't just look at the plans before they start drilling holes and mixing epoxy. It takes very little extra effort to get it right.
Dave M
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Hi Dave M,
yes your right the plan does show clearly the right way to fit them, and I could see they were wrong when I acquired the "kit" even before I got the plans, and thanks to mayhem members for giving me the inspiration to do something about them, the finished model should look all the better.
I think with Model Slipway and Deans you get a good basic kit that inspires the modeller to add extra detail as well as using that all important modellers licence. %) ;)
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Goodness...sounds like 3 [three] bites from European CARP >>:-( that still infest our Murray river system {:-{
Reading between the lines it would appear obvious that neither have spent a days toil in a shipyard building industry or dockyard
No self respecting trades shipwright would intentionally install a portlight/porthole in anyway other than the intended manner
My questioning comments were not intended to be a criticism ....but a suggestion that there are options here
Paul McCartney wrote some interesting lyrics in his composition ...."The Fool on the Hill" O0 ....could be worth listening to the words
However, as requested, I will say no more on this build..........Derek
Derek...
Please accept my apology... I really wasn't attacking your comments at all.
My words were only to encourage Joe in his build and to build it as he likes.
I am sure he is more than happy for you to chime in at any point as would I be.
Respectfully yours,
David.
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Did the cappings on the wing deck sides, the printed plywood ones in the kit intended for the discarded GRP wheelhouse were not a good enough fit for my scratch built wheelhouse so I used styrene sanded to a reasonable profile, also fitted the deck grilles and the funnel, the previous owner had assembled the funnel, but the bottom mounting ring and the top cap were not square resulting in the funnel leaning slightly, not sure what glue he had used, and remembering that heat had made removing the alloy portholes possible, I used my heat gun and sure enough was able to remove the alloy parts and reinstate them to make the funnel vertical from the centre line, and the correct rake side on, the two forward deck grilles are a different position to the plan as my access hatch is smaller than originally intended.
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You are doing an awesome job my friend! I look out for your updates every day! :-))
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Thanks Dave,
Made and fitted the boiler room vents, being used to 1:96 scale every thing on this one seems huge, then started the engine house, I could probably have used the GRP moulded one with a bit of filling and sanding, but as I've used plywood on the deck and wheelhouse I thought it logical to carry on with the same construction method, I want to get ventilation in the boat so I've put holes under each skylight , to make frequent removal of the superstructure and rigging unnecessary, as I'm using a lead acid battery, which will be charged in the boat, and although a sealed battery they still vent when charging,
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:-)
Explain we to whom is going to be of use the electric join Tamya?
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:-)
Explain we to whom is going to be of use the electric join Tamya?
J-P
I think these are temporary connectors between the speed controller and the battery.
Joe
If you want to use a small switch instead of a great big one then I would suggest you have a look at the ACTion P107, which is a power distribution board with a small MOSFET on board which allows a very small slide or toggle switch to be used to turn the main battery on and off. There is also the P106 which is a simple wiring harness which includes this MOSFET and switch but doesn't have the power board. On my prototype I hid the radio switch under the Hold Hatch, which is just ahead of the capstan on the aft deck.
Dave M
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No the Tamiya connectors aren't temporary, I know some people don't like Tamiya connectors, but I've been using them for years and never had any problems, here's two photos that might explain, the RC switch and the connectors are concealed inside the tow cable create, simply disconnect the ESC and plug in the charger, I have the RC switches on all my boats accessable from the deck disguised as say a mushroom vent or a ammo box, but this one is as designed by Model Slipway, to be honest I couldn't better it :-))
Joe
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The white metal W/T doors as supplied are ok, but I thought they would look better with a bulkhead frame, so I mounted one on a piece of styrene to leave a small margin around the door and then made a mould of it, as there's only four W/T doors on the wheelhouse I could have added styrene to all of them, but I'm getting quite a collection of various fittings by taking moulds of each mod I do, always handy for future use. ;)
Joe
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Added the bulwark supports and capping as most of work has been done in plywood I used this for the cappings , just before I primed the funnel and hatch assembly I thought I would be a good time to make the steam pipes and whistle attached to the funnel so they would all be primed together. ;)
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Been having a bit of fun with the wheelhouse interior,, when the boats are at a Surface Warship Association exhibition It's surprising how many people get up close and peer though the windows, so I thought I'd give them something to see. %%
Not forgetting the motley crew. {-)
Joe
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I do like this extra detailing, it brings the boat to life.
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Got the rest of the primer done today, and fitted the 70mm propeller, again this seems huge after my 1:96 scales, also made the wheelhouse roof and I'm deviating from the plan a little by making the machine gun deck as if it were a modification rather that an extention of the roof, so now it's time for my favourite part the fittings and detailing. ;)
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Looking great so far and nice to see it in the correct colours. :-)
Keep the updates coming.
Craig.
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Thanks Craig , good to know it's of interest to others.
Carrying on with the wheelhouse I fitted the roof and the aerial duct which passes though it, I made mine from wood rather than the laminated styrene, with the roof in place I completed the machine gun stations keeping the modification theme in mind, should look ok when painted. :-)
Joe
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Spotted a problem with the cable create which houses the RC switch and plugs, the plan has it sited under the mid tow bow and there's not enough height to lift off the create top without first removing the engine room along with the tow bow, I say problem it's more of an inconvenience, I want the switch easily accessible, so as the position of the create is not critical I decided to reposition it more forward, removing the create body wasn't easy and took a bit of deck with it, shows how good Admiralty Glues are, I thought if I broke it I could easily make another, but it came off in one piece, I had to fill one hole and make good the deck, I think it prove to be worth the effort. :-))
Joe
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Spent a fiddly few hours assembling the wheelhouse/machine gun deck railings, very satisfying when finished :-)
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For years I've been improvising on marking the water lines / boot toppings, and today I saw a waterline gauge on a model web site, now I don't believe in paying for something I can make, so I thought I would take time out and make one loosely based on the one I'd seen, and I think the result should work just fine, I'll change the nut for a wing nut when I can find one. ;)
Joe.
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Now, that's a good and useful tool to make O0
Thanks for sharing - oh, and your model is coming along nicely :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Nice work Joe
I am following this build with great interest, gathering ideas along the way. Thank you in advance .
The waterline gauge is a nice piece of work and one of those "Why didn't I think of that?" devices.
I hope my tug turns out half as good as this one is.
Ian
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Before I start making up all the fittings, I thought I would get most of the painting done, I prefer a rather less than perfect finish on this type of vessel, it's not quite a Monaco runabout, more a built for purpose work horse of the sea, with the paint being more of a rust prevention than anything else, and a paint finish less than perfect is one thing I can do, %) I mostly use Humbrol acrylic in those silly little 12ml pots, why can't hobby paint manufacturers cater for us builders of larger models, and at £1.60 ish for 12ml. it would probably be cheaper to finish it in gold leaf lol. %% {-)
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Wow Joe! This boat is looking fantastic! Great job!!! :-))
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Thanks Dave,
I'm doing all the top coat painting, hand painting two coats on everything, I've never been a fan of airbrushing each to their own I guess,
Once this is done I will start assembling the rest of the fittings , spray prime and hand paint them before I fit them, I also need to get some alloy tubing to make the tow bows in place of the styrene ones, so still a nice lot to do. :-))
Joe.
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Got most of the painting done the last couple of days, not my favourite part of the build the old hands not as steady as they were, but she's presentable, I'll leave the paint to cure a couple more days before I do the boot topping, now I can start the fittings.
Joe
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I tried some masking tape on a test piece of the grey paint and it seemed fine so I thought I would get the boot topping finished and then concentrate on the fittings, using the waterline marker tool I made, marking out the boot topping was one of the easiest I've done, especially with the large counter at the stern.
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Instead of using masking tape which could pull the paint off. Go down to your local motor paint factors (yellow pages) and buy some low tack tape. Its used for masking new paint on cars and will not pull of the paint, its not paper based like masking tape but plastic so also conforms to compound curves easily, it also comes in various widths.
Or your local model shop that does plastic models, they will have a similar product made by Tamiya. The difference being the paint shop tape will be cheaper for a whole lot more than you get from Tamiya.
If you look at this topic http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,46369.0.html at posts 132 and 133 you will see it on my hull, its the blue tape- I'm not masking with it here, just using it as a guide line!
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Thanks for the info Brian, loved your build by the way, your very good at weathering / ageing :-)) I'm not using bog standard masking tape it's a very expensive blue coloured tape that we used on the boats/ yachts where I used to work, I somehow had some rolls in my toolbox when I retired %) but your right it is 1" wide so a narrow one would follow contours better, My last roll its almost gone so I'll look out for the type you mentioned for my next build. :-))
Joe
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I've been preparing and assembling the white metal fittings and have to say they are good quality with some fine detailing and not that much flash, just the mould lines to remove, I particularly like this part of the build as you try parts in place you can see the boat looking more life like, I then place them on a board for priming, still some to do plus the davits to assemble.
Joe.
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Still making up the fittings, some are assembled from brass etch and white metal and fit together quite well, also made the main capstan winch with a few extra details, should look OK when painted, and fitted the anchor winch.
Joe
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I've been working my way though painting the primed parts and fittings and then fitting them to the boat, still a lot to do I'm glad to say as I'm really enjoying this build, the 1:48 scale is a nice change to the 1:96 scales I have been building. ;)
Joe
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just an update, some more fittings on board. :-)
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Got a bit bored with painting all the fittings so had a little break and pottered around and ended up with a rough work bench in the recess I expect they would have had one
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and a lot more fittings fitted, made a start on the masts, the fore mast with it's raked supports is quite tricky to assemble but I'll get there. %%
Joe
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She's coming along nicely there Joe -looking good :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Thanks Ray.
I managed to get the fore mast made although it looks like the plan I had to adapt a few measurements to fit my scratch built wheelhouse, I think once painted and all the rigging fitted it should look OK. %%
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Gradually getting back into the build after the holiday, made a start on the mizzen mast, and made up all the armaments ready for painting, also did her first float test today and it was obvious that she will need a great deal of ballast, so I've put in 4 pounds cut from lead flashing to fit snugly in the bilges and some lead pellets in the shaft well, I'll give her another test tomorrow.
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Second float test today and added another 3/4 pound of trimming ballast, indications are she is going to be quite stable, also tested the motor the 6 to 1 reduction box swings the 70mm prop with ease, and looks like she is going to be very powerful, now fitting the amidships railings around the 12 pounder deck gun.
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Finished the railings amidships ready for painting, I've decided to fit a smoke generator I kept looking at her large stack and thought that would look great with smoke, but the ones I've used in the past have would not have made enough smoke for such a large model, I then saw one on another forum and asked about it, it's a V4 super smoker from Australia and saw a video of it working and I've been assured that it is as good as it looks by the guy in the other forum, especially when wired in with the ESC so I've ordered one at £40 with £10 postage I hope it's worth it, I had thought about changing the RX to run with my Saturn 6 and turning the smoke gen on or off from the Tx but decided to have a manual switch and choose whether to run with or without smoke on launch.
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This is a great build Joe! well done!
I can't wait to see it on the water!
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Thanks for the nice comment Dave, I've been adding more fittings to both masts today, and started making the tow bows, instead of the laminated styrene ones I've made them from brass tube flattened a bit to make it oval, the mid tow bow is a bit tricky to fit as it lifts off with the engine room top, but almost done it. :o
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Got the tow bows finished today, with hind sight the mid bow should have been a bit higher, the radius is the same as the plan but I think my scratch built engine room is slightly higher than the GRP one supplied in the kit, but I think I'll leave as is, I've used the plan for general layout but have changed quite a few details to make the boat individual, I've still got all the ammo/ storage boxes to make, I plan on making one of each type and reproducing them in resin, the slight extra weight certainly no problem on this boat. :-)
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The smoke generator arrived today took 8 days, from the other side of the world I guess that's not bad, and I have to say it's the best smoke gen I have seen, and very well made, I've wired it in with the throttle with a manual switch so I can isolate it if I want, I had to stop the trial in the work shop before someone called the fire brigade {-) {-) {-)
I think out on the water it will be quite impressive :-))
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finished the masts and fitted to boat ready for rigging, I'll make all the ammo/storage lockers and fit them before I do the rigging I think access to mid decks will be easier. :D
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Made up the ammo/storage lockers from styrene card some are one off, the ones that need several of each I've made one of each to take a mould of, to reproduce in resin, they will also come in handy for future builds, I've been doing this with my 1:96 builds as well and have now got quite a few moulds and fittings. ok2
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Did the rigging using sail makers twine, I thought the cotton supplied was a bit over scale and drew too much attention to the rigging, as the moulds for the ammo lockers are still curing I started the life boats, I thought I would experiment with the boat covers by covering the vac moulds with an old duster stretched and glued over them and then painted with a diluted acrylic I'll see how it turns out later, I used thinned PVA so if it don't look good I can take it off. %)
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First batch of ammo lockers out of the moulds the backs need sanding flat as this is where the moulds are filled, then I'll add the detail from the brass etchings before painting, I've also added a bit more detail to the lifeboat cradles rather than just blocks, and the boat covers don't look too bad it gives them a bit of texture. :-)
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Covers do look good Joe.
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Thanks Rob, I wanted to get away from the smooth plastic look for the covers I think it's achieved that, I've now "dirtied" them a bit, as they looked too clean being sited right under the funnel. O0
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Life boats now secured in place and added the carlie floats although I have deviated from the plan as I didn't want mine slung on the rigging, may not be right but hey modellers licence. %% %% %)
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Those lifeboat covers are as good as any I have seen.
They look more realistic than most..
Super Build.
Ned
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The carly float placement looks just perfect, but one observation.... I'm not sure about the securing, it looks too 'flimsy'. That is a fairly open position and shipping any heavy seas I would think would rip them out of that fastening. Maybe extra roping across the bow and stern of the carly?
Can I ask what resin and mould silicone you used for the ammo crates and a supplier? I have to contemplate making quite a few small parts on my next build so getting aquainted with casting looks inevitable.
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yes I think I should have used a thicker tread for the carlies, I was trying to copy the ones in the photo. %%
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Brian the materials for casting I use are from www.easycomposites.co.uk , and are, fast cast resin and Cs2 condensation cure rubber, not cheap but then nether are fittings, the resin is 50/50 mix of resin /catalyst and a 1kg of each goes a long way, once you get used to it it's fascinating what you can do with it, :-))
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Thanks for the info Joe. I have an account with them for grp stuff, I'll take a look at the casting stuff and have a read up.
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Well not much left to do now, added the nav lanterns, and got all the ammo lockers ready for priming, I was going to do these before the rigging but having checked all the positions I could see I could easily get to them.
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Superb build Joe! I like the extra brass details on those lockers, and as said above the replacement boat covers look great.
James (Ship's Doctor)
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Thank you James, good to hear from you, hope Suffolk is still going strong has she found that illusive Bismarck yet %%
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Finished painting and fitted the ammo lockers etc. I think it adds a bit of interest to the decks.
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I thought I would add a bit of detail to the foc'sle break recesses so made extra oilskin lockers to port and a tool box to go with the bench stbd.
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Well apart for any thing little detail I may think of adding later she is about finished now need to do the sailing trials, in the mean time I needed to find a berth for her to clear the building bench for the restart of my type 42 Coventry, after a bit of rearranging and an extra shelf fitted this is now sorted %%
For anyone interested I will post the sea trials later. :-))
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Yes please ! Great job, but would not be complete without the Sea Trials.
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A fantastic build and its the little details you add that really sets it apart from the rest and brings it to life.
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A truly inspirational build, beautifully recorded that has been a pleasure to follow. :-)) :-))
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Thanks for the encouraging comments guys, just waiting for some calm weather to do the trials. :-))
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An excellently detailed build thread Joe :-)) ..... will be interested to read & see her on sea trials.... Derek
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Thank you Derek, your kind comment is appreciated. :-))
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The water in the lake I use is about a foot below the edge so I have found it easier to use a pair of slings to launch my boats, it dawned on me today the slings I use for my 1:96 boats were no where near large enough for the 1:48 tug, luckily I had some webbing about 4 metres long in my come-in-handy drawer, like most of the stuff in there I have no idea where it came from %%, so I made some large slings today with some chain for the sinkers that should make launch and retrieval a lot easier. ok2
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Still waiting to do the trials down the lake, there was a few nice days last week but I never take a boat to the lake during school holidays, this is because of an incident last summer school holidays, I was down there with the dog, no boats that time, the guys from the model yacht club were out racing Marbleheads, I was having a walk round the waterside when I was aware of quite large splashes in the water amongst the yachts, the guys were looking around to see what was going on, from where I was I could see, there were six or seven kids around 14 years old, lobbing stones from the other side of the grassy mound that runs along one side of the lake and it was obvious what they were doing, by this time I was fairly close and threatened them with calling the police, only to get a load of abuse as they ran off, these kids know they are untouchable, and if you were to no doubt their parents would sue you because after all their little angels would never do anything like that, so now I only go there when said angels are in school. >>:-(
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First sea trials this morning, perfect conditions, she was slightly high at the stern I'll add a bit more ballast aft, but apart from that it all went well, she handles very nicely, and stable, a good scale speed at 1/3rd throttle and as she is heavy there is no "bounce" when she crosses her own wake, the smoke generator from Oz works a treat, ran her continuously for over an hour and the motor was barely warm, I don't sail my boats that often It's all about the build for me, but I can see this one having quite a few outings. :-))
Joe.
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Looks good on the water Joe.
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Thanks Brian, she is a lot of fun to sail, :-))
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She is really a beauty on the water, Joe :-)) :-)) :-)) The smoke looks very realistic. I am still waiting for my generator - it is already more than a month at the German customs <*<
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Absolutely magnificent!
Full of details
Attractive on the water
Bravo Joe
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Thanks a lot guys, hey Arno I had no idea it would take so long for you to receive the smoke generator, that must be really annoying, is this normal over there, I thought you must have it by now and wondered what you thought of it. {:-{
Joe
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Joe, get this-- I placed an order from Cornwall Model Boats in the UK, all it had to do was cross the channel to Spain. CMB posted it airmail, it took 12 days to get here! Now I go back and forth from Spain to Yorkshire quite a lot and the plane only takes 2 1/2 hours!
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I use CMB a lot delivery is usually around 4 days, the smoke gen from Australia took 8 days and this week I ordered a small flatbed truck to tote my boats around, ordered at 3 o clock Wednesday it arrived at 11 o clock next day, but it seems the German customs really screw things up >:-o
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Delivery is not the problem - the kit I bought from Deans Marine took only 3 days from UK to Germany as there was no customs involved. A parcel from Japan also took about 6 weeks this year. The problem is the German authorities. Maybe they play with our model stuff in the meantime <*< >>:-( <*< I will give you a feedback when it has arrived, Joe.
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That would annoy the hell out of me Arno, do you get informed about the whereabouts of your parcel, I know the guy in Oz posts very quickly. :((
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No, tracking was not available. But I am sure it was posted by airmail. The Oz guy seems to be very reliant. The only problem is customs. I hate protectionism.
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I know CMB posted out on the same day as my order, so it would have been in Spain next day at the latest. So a full 10 days to get from Madrid to Alicante a distance of about 240 miles! You just know its been held at customs when it comes to that amount of time, then its bad enough having to collect it. Our post office is in our local town 8 miles away from the village, the postie won't bring anything larger than a normal letter for anyone, spanish or english, she just tells you to go in and collect it from the counter!
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Enigma is fairly heavy at 10 kilos. as I noticed only too well when I took her down the lake for the first time, I use a bungee to hold the cradle in place and lift her grasping the stem and stern out of the car then put her on the ground to close the car pick her up again carry her to the lake, go back to the car for the TX etc. this is when you know your getting old, when she goes to her first exhibition it's even further to carry, so I thought I'd make it a bit easier by getting a flatbed truck, looked on tinternet and came up with one not too expensive that I thought would do the job, ordered it and as mentioned earlier it came the next day, and it was far better quality than I was expecting for the price, mostly aluminium bed and 4" ball race wheels two castor and two fixed and a folding handle, I added some ply rims, I can get three 1:96 warships on together, and then back for the tug, And as I have a mild angina this will help no end,
Even better SWMBO said she would buy it for me as an early Christmas present,,,,Sweeeeet. :-)) :-)) ;)
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Hi Joe
I have just joined the forum and found your thread whilst looking for tug stuff. I have spent a pleasant couple of hours reading and enjoying the pics, thanks for a most enjoyable thread. It gives me something to aim for.
Regards Colin
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Hi Colin, and welcome, I'm pleased you found my build log interesting and hope it helps if you are thinking of building one. :-))
Joe
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Greetings Joe, As an aged, returning modeller and a newbie on this site, can I add my thanks to the others on here for your superb article.
I am awaiting the arrival of my Envoy kit and will use your build for clarification of any steps I need help with.
Regards Jenga
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Hi Jenga, welcome, I'm sure you will enjoy building it I know I did, only too pleased if I can help in any way, :-)) :-))
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Hi Radiojoe
The trolley idea is a great one and many in our club have chosen to do likewise. It's amazing how heavy a model can become over a relatively short distance. I can see from the size of your trolley how easy it will be to fit inside the average boot however, I would recommend supporting the model well with some form of shock absorbing material such as foam rubber as I'm sure you will have already considered, as the small caster wheels coupled with hard rubber tyres will cause bouncing over the smoothest of pathways. Some in our club have gone for small modified garden carts with inflatable tyres but by size are not as easy to stow in the boot.
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Hi Dicky
My plan is to carry the trolley folded on the back seat of my estate car, as I will be carrying my four completed boats to an exhibition next weekend, this will be the first time to use the trolley, in the past I've had to carry each boat from the car to the second floor of Action Stations in Portsmouth dockyard, this time will be a lot easier as there is wheeled access and a lift, so money well spent I think. :-))
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Can well understand your dilemma, hope you have a great time. Was in Gosport myself on Remembrance Day, went on Alliance and also visited the Explosives museum, quite amazing.
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When I did the detailing in the wheelhouse I neglected to fit a light, so now it is finished it's too dark to see the detailing inside when at an exhibition, so I've decided to retrofit a led light in the wheelhouse and nav lights at the same time a bit of a challenge to get the leds in position working from inside the bridge structure, just waiting for the leds etc. to arrive and then I have a go. %)
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Leds arrived today, they are nano chips so can fit almost anywhere and very bright, I got them from www.smallscalelights.co.uk I can recommend them, very good service, as I didn't build the bridge structure with lights in mind it was a bit of a fiddle to find a route for each of them, the wheelhouse was the easiest by removing the secondary helm plinth and drilling a hole though the roof for the led them replacing the plinth over it, the nav lights were a different matter, I had to use a long 3mm drill bit and drill up from the underside at a slight angle and aim to come up under each lantern, I did this very carefully a little at a time and both came out right thankfully, the nanos fitted and held with a spot of cyarno they were then wired to a switch under the engine house via a jst plug and socket, as they were 12 volt I am running them off the main LA battery, I'm happy with the result they are quite effective. :-)
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Looking good nice job
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Very interesting thread. Funnily enough I was thinking of buying this kit. I have a Flower Class covette and a TID tug in 1:48. Envoy would fit in well and I'm trying to standardise on this scale.
Just one question Joe, what motor are you using? From the pics, it seems to be geared?
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Looks to be the same motor I fitted into my Envoy which is an MFA / Comodrills 540 brushed, DC motor with a 6:1 gearbox on the front. This is the motor shown on the plans of the Envoy kit and mentioned in the instructions which is why I chose it.
http://www.mfacomodrills.com/gearboxes/919d_series.html (http://www.mfacomodrills.com/gearboxes/919d_series.html)
In my boat I have the option of running it on 6V or 12V operation and it copes just fine running on two, 6V lead acid batteries.
Craig.
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Thanks Craig, thats useful to know. I like the idea of runnning on 12V for the smoke gen but using two 6V lead acids. Gives a lot of flexibility.
PS: this verification code thing is driving me round the bend!!
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Yes that's the motor I used, at 6:1 ratio running on a 12 volt 7amh battery runs for hours even with the smoke generator and barely gets warm.
The verification is only for about 5 to 10 posts so keep at it. :-)) :-))
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Hi Joe, my Envoy should be with me Monday, Will pm you if I need any advice, following your Coventry build, looking really good mate. I said should arrive Monday as I tracked it as far as Tamworth, where it was signed out for onward journey on Sat at 00:29 but has since fell off the radar and no sign of whereabots for over 36 hours. Why do these things always happen to me......anyone offered a cheap Envoy....its mine!!!!!!!
jenga
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Yes that's the motor I used, at 6:1 ratio running on a 12 volt 7amh battery runs for hours even with the smoke generator and barely gets warm.
The verification is only for about 5 to 10 posts so keep at it. :-)) :-))
Thanks. I'll get there in the end, I suppose!
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Hi Joe, my Envoy should be with me Monday, Will pm you if I need any advice, following your Coventry build, looking really good mate. I said should arrive Monday as I tracked it as far as Tamworth, where it was signed out for onward journey on Sat at 00:29 but has since fell off the radar and no sign of whereabots for over 36 hours. Why do these things always happen to me......anyone offered a cheap Envoy....its mine!!!!!!!
jenga
I'd check on EBay, mate! :}
Ha! Lost the verification code, thank the Lord!
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Hi Jenga, I wouldn't worry mate the tracking goes bonkers this time of year, I was tracking a parcel last week kept coming up as "awaiting collection" it was still saying that when it was delivered, and at 4 foot long and a foot square I don't think it will be over looked. :-))
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I love the illuminated bridge pictures. Very atmospheric. I have spent many happy (?) hours on similar bridges and the girlie calanders are just right. Chandlers and other well wishes used to gives us similar calanders which were greatly prized. Not sure if it's the same today. I expect the numbing hand of political correctness has deemed them 'unaceptable' and they have been replaced by calenders shown ponies and fluffy kittens. Such is progress. :((
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Absolutely beautiful build. Love the impressive detailing. Awesome :-)) :-)) :-))
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Thanks for the nice comments, the inspiration behind the pinups was just as you said, back then you would find them in every work place be it a bridge on a tug, a garage, an office, or the joiner shop where I served my apprenticeship that had a whole wall covered in scantily clad ladies, that I found so distracting, and still do I'm pleased to say. %) ok2
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Bonjour,
HERE (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gT9xULtnpRQ) is an example of militarized Model Slipway Envoy tug. Powered by an 4,5 cm3 Jade (http://fabrice.bretagne.perso.neuf.fr/Moteur%20Jade%20II.htm) Anton steam plant.
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She looks grand on the water :-)) I love the way mine sails, you can almost feel the weight of her. O0
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I must agree she does sit nice in the water
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Fantastic looking boat Joe :-))
I too bought a V4 smoker, I have had it running (great) but have not managed to get it synced with the throttle yet. I have a futaba radio with mix programs and wondered how you managed your setup?
I cut the red wire on the smoker ESC throttle lead as I have read somewhere on here that you cannot have 2 ESCs connected without one having the red lead cut!
At the moment it seems to run when the stick is neutral and stop when the stick is moved! I am sure it's a simple adjustment but just can't seem to get it. Any advice or info would be appreciated. I'll probably email chopperflyboy as well and see if he can assist..
Thanks..... U2
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Hi U2,
I just wired my smoker to the motor wires so the more power you give the motor the smoker gets more power thus more smoke, just remember the smoker is polarity sensitive so the red wire from the smoker must be connected to the positive wire on the motor. :-))
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Thanks Joe, unfortunately mines a brushless and can't be done like that. Like I said I'll give chopperflyboy an email. I'm almost there with it and if all else fails I can just put it on a separate switch and switch it on off etc when I want. Mmm not a bad idea actually :}
You did a great job with all those details on your boat. Thanks for the quick response....... U2
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You could still have variable smoke if you used a separate brushed ESC, if you have a spare channel that is. ;)
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Been trying the smoker again today and realised that because the brushless is very unlikely to be used at over half power it's never going to smoke much SO I wired it to a separate channel and switch it on with my radio and it smokes great. Click on click off :} .
Thanks for the info it made me look into my program mixes and realise about the switch.
As for the separate brushed ESC, I have one that came with the smoker but I had trouble getting it set up. That's when I realised about not running my motor flat out and not getting much smoke as a result. It's great now though, cough, cough, cough..... %% U2
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Hi U2,
Glad you got it sorted they are excellent units I'll be getting another one soon for my next build HMS Brocklesby. :-))
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HMS Brocklesby mmm im off to google it now, If it turns out like the last one itll be great U2