Model Boat Mayhem
Mess Deck: General Section => Model Boating => Topic started by: red181 on July 04, 2014, 09:13:00 pm
-
Anybody fancy a build blog (well as usual with me its a restoration) with one of these boats,. I have just started it after spending two years in the loft :embarrassed:
-
YES!!!.........it would be a nice change and a journey back into the past.
brushless weren't around when I built mine 20 odd years ago. lol.
cheers, neil.
-
Depends which one!! I still have nightmares of my Caldercraft build. Worst kit I ever invested in. A total pile of junk. Threw all the ply away and built from scratch but even then the plans were not good as they used a unit of measurement I was unfamiliar with being neither imperial or metric. Allegedly die cut wood but not one part had an actual cut mark. Die lightly scored in places possibly and nothing fitted. Fittings were decent I will accept but that was about all.
-
yeh............seem to remember that myself, lol....................how memory fades the mind until reminded, lol
-
I'm having a go at the1/48 scale Monogram kit...amidst re-doing the garden.
Robert
-
Well we will do it then!
its 3 and some foot long will be twin screw brushless. May be belt drive. I was thinking one motor driving two shafts. Not sure yet. Glass hull. The ply deck and cabin wants a lot of work. Pics to follow. Got a cool idea for a sound d unit but thats way off!
-
Afraid mine may not be as impressive, comes out about 12" in length and the kit isn't spectacular, just fancied it for a try.
Robert
-
so here is what I have, a mess really, but it has potential :-))
-
and the parts
-
Its a wonder how this boat ever ran. The shaft supports are just floating in the hull, the only thing supporting them is a white metal tube support, and a load of gunk in just the thickness of the hull. The rudders are the same, so it all has to come out
-
Lots of potential there. Good luck!
-
...just tagging along, hope to pick up some useful tips on the way - good luck with the build :-))
Regards,
Ray.
-
Its a wonder how this boat ever ran. The shaft supports are just floating in the hull, the only thing supporting them is a white metal tube support, and a load of gunk in just the thickness of the hull. The rudders are the same, so it all has to come out
(http://api.ning.com/files/6Zcs4jSZYWmXjUQ*njgXmSWEFQtpNSihjfaJfqbT2DB2PRT1reLIZnGWvd-oyBEZazry7m5Qe6f2USCWkF0bk7x-wUFu*ZuA/ApocalypseNowKurtzQuote.jpg)
-
your rudder supports may be a little messy but look fine and stable o me...they are locked into a wooden plinth for support...........you might damage the hull more by trying to fix them than actually making them better.....
as for the prop shafts........I have seen many worse fitted.........some even on my own models, lol.
if they are water proof, in line and sturdy enough I would leave those too, as you could really damage the hull's integrity and gell coat by trying to get them out..........the rest will come out well with just a little hard work and some repainting. :-))
neil.
-
I was given a tatty Perkasa. I threw away the superstructure and built my own version. Went for a brushless motor in the first instance, lots of problems, reverted to a Graupner 600 brushed motor. Goes well. Will try to attach photo on its maiden voyage. Pete
-
Hi. I have a semi scratch PCF. and a scratch PBR mk2.
If you would like some pics to help you along ?.
Regards sub.
-
Is your pibber "Street Gang"?
I've often considered a PBR or PCF build. Interesting subjects.
-
Hi. It could be. I did a lot of reasearch into the pcf and pbr and managed to enlist the help of real US Navy vietnam vets...not an easy task to do its still a sore subject.
I also scratch built a bell sk5 assault hovercraft used by the us army on the plain of reeds very succesfully the VC thought they were dragons. All my models are 1/16 scale will put some pics on if any one is interested.
Regards sub.
-
Street Gang is the PBR in Apocalypse Now. I have seen some clever models of it with thatched canopies, and crew with arrows through there head.
-
Hi, to all and Red181
Thatched canopies not a good idea.... as the correct canopy is more than that.. as it is a ballistic protection canopy,
As PBR are made of Fibreglass with ceramic reinforcement on the vital areas the only thing that can really trigger an RPG round is the radar dome above the canopy on the mast hence the reinforced ballistic canopy to protect the crew from shrapnel.
I will post some pics up on a different thread in Warships Navy of my Vietnam selection so as not to hijac this thread. :-))
Regards Sub. :-))
-
Hi all!
what a film eh Essex!, that was the inspiration for the PCF, I like models with "history" but when I looked closely at the pibber, it was a bit boring, so went for the PCF which is a bit of an ugly duck really imo! Im really looking forward to he paintwork, as at last a build without fussy finish, and I have a coiuple of great things to work with, but they will remain a secret for now!
Neil, all those crappy bits have been ripped out now, I just couldn't leave them in, I'm too fussy with how things look! OCD really :embarrassed: Sub, any info you have, the more the better, I do have quite a bit, and plans etc but bring it on!
I have decided that it will be twin motor, direct drive, by that, the prop shafts will go into the brushless motor, the motor shafts will be removed, a driveline I did on the last build, my 4 foot aerokits fireboat.
Started to fit a bulkhead with support for the shafts, and plates for inside the hull to ensure that are bonded in properly. I spent ages thinking about the shafts, hopefully it will be ok, and enough clearance for the size of props I intend to use
-
Bulkhead cut out, ready to fit
-
Bulkhead in and position of shafts, with plates to locate shafts to hull
-
The motor mounts are done, the shaft will be removed from the motors, and the 4mm propshaft will go straight into the motor, with a cooling block, and a brass sleeve that will be soft soldered onto the outer shaft, this will need to be cut to length first, then I just need a simple "l" shaped mount to locate to the hull, to stop vibration, well that's the theory anyway!
-
So there will be no u joint/connectors on the motor, as the inboard end of the prop shaft will be integral to the outrunner? Or am I reading this all wrong?
Would you mind including lots of photos of this? I find this very intriguing as I am just getting back into the hobby after nearly 30 years, and still wrapping my head around all the changes in motors, batteries and electronics.
-
I wish brushless had been around when I had built mine.......it used to run like a day boat on the Norfolk broads with what I had in mine, lol {-) {-) {-) {-)
-
Hi Bob,
yes spot on, that is what will happen. I have done it before, I find the building/tinkering testing the fun part!
Its here
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,39278.0.html
-
Thank you Red, very comprehensive build thread. Boat looks awesome!
The build cleared up my questions re: outrunners mounted right on the shaft as well. Will be following this build thread for sure!
-
It was a real risk Bob, not seen that done before, so I used cheap motors on the Fireboat, in case it failed, and made the mounts in a way we could go back to traditional method, or like my other boat which has a geared belt drive. Both boats are pulling too many revs for those cheap plastic uj's.
Unfortunately my mentor, who did most of the machining, died last year, so I am on my own with this build!
Paul
-
I'm sorry to hear about your mentor.
If the mounts in the previous photo are your work, they look great.
-
Finally made something, two water pickups, and the plates to secure the shafts are now in situ, this could be a long haul! ;)
-
bit more done, needs a good clean up, with excess epoxy etc, but shafts are now in, used gallons of epoxy so these are not coming out ever!. Blocks in situ for the rudder posts and water pickups, and block ready for shaft supports.
-
Right, lets get on with this now!
I made the mistake of having two projects on the go, the other has been shelved due to continuing failures, so its back to this model :-))
A hold up was caused by the shaft supports, this was supposed to be an easy part of the job, but no matter what metal I used, it was too brittle and kept snapping when being bent. Luckily a friend, an engineer, got some metal and bent it for me, so tonight I made them up, bent to correct angle, ready for fitting. The idea is, the brass sleeve is the mount, soft soldered onto the outer shaft, then the ally support which is mounted onto the ply base, which is epoxied into the hull. The brass sleeve will have a bearing in it, then the cooling block, then the motor with shaft removed. That's the theory anyway ;)
-
some more progress, this took a while. The ply mounts are now epoxied in the hull, and the shafts are removed from the motors. I have had a trial fit with the supports, the cooling blocks, and the motors. One shaft is very nice, the other has a slight tight spot, I suspect one of the shafts is slightly bent, as these are the original ones. Not a problem really, just something else that needs buying!
-
Not looking forward to the next job as I cant work out how to do them. The skegs are quite unusual on the real boat, I need something to support the shafts under the hull.
Ideas welcome!
-
well it took a while, and its a bit of a gamble, but the prop protectors (for use in shallow water) and the skegs are done. The shafts are rock solid, so these are for some extra protection but more for cosmetic reasons to replicate the real boat.
I really wanted brass, silver soldered together, but after a few attempts at silver soldering, I gave up. Tried soft soldering, but it was too weak. I have a sleeve over the shaft, and the two parts attached to that. I have ended up making them out of plastic sheet, and a plastic tube. They are cynoed together, then with plastic weld, how strong will they be? Well lets see how long they last! :}
The rudders are in situ, and the water pickups. I now have to configure the rudder linkages, and then, if water tight (I have my doubts with the use of the original rudder components) we are not too far off starting up the motors. I have a tight spot on one of the shafts, not much, but its there, I suspect a very slightly bent shaft. The only problem with this type of drive train is it has to be lined up very accurately with very little tolerance for misalignment
-
some more progress, rudders and linkages are done, just need to mount the servo, but, I have made a really stupid mistake, the rudder posts are straight up, the hull has a slight v shape, so the rudder blades are not straight down they are at an angle and look stupid! Not sure how to fix this.
Motors, mounts etc now all installed, still think I have a very slightly bent shaft, but difficult to tell now the shafts are shorter cut to correct length. Ill see what happens when the motors get run up. Just go to decide where the batteries and esc's are going to sit in the hull.
-
I finally got some enthusiasm to do some work on this boat. Today wasn't the best day to water test, way too windy, but it finally got wet, very briefly though. After a few seconds it developed a fault I could not fix at lakeside. One of the motor outer cans was slipping on the shaft, the retaining grub screw felt real tight, but on inspection, the thread did not actually go all the way down through the can, so whilst I thought it was tight on the shaft, it was bottoming on the lack of thread, this is an expensive Overlander motor (compared to the cheap online Chinese motors). The motor is intended for a rc plane, now that would have ended in disaster if in the air.
Another problem when bench testing, the pair of 50amp reversing speed controllers, brand new and unused, although bought over a year ago, wired them up, and one smoked immediately (yes it was wired correctly!), flipping chinese online stuff, so no return, no warranty, and now I don't have a matched pair, guess what, they don't make this sort anymore, so I need another pair >:-o .
So it ran briefly, but slowly, with a 3 cell lipo for each motor. Pleasingly the rudder posts did not appear to leak now they have been reset so they are straight, and I had the throttle going the wrong way, so I can a progress on, after I have bought another pair of speed controllers! :((
-
Glad to see you have resumed this build. It is very interesting and informative.
-
Hey red.....that is a very interesting servo mounting......
Have not seen them before...where do the come from?... Derek
-
got a couple off ebay ages ago, this is pretty much the same, but quite expensive!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RC-R-c-Boat-Ship-Metal-Alloy-Aluminum-CNC-303-Standard-Servo-Mount-/171323338244?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item27e3aaae04
-
now made the inside pretty.
I'm struggling getting two brushless reversing esc's that are high enough amps, and good enough. I have one left over from another project, but cant find a matching one , its a turnigy 60amp marine. I like these, Hobbyking are out of stock, so I might have to be patient, I suppose I could always start the superstructure!
A flash of inspiration made me shine a bright torch inside the hull, with the lights off, to see if there where any potential leaks, ans there was a gaping hole at the bow, so stood it on its nose and poured some resin in, seems ok now :-))
-
ok, finished now! all done! :-))
(ha ha, I wish, but isn't this a beauty! %%)
I would be delighted if mine turns out like this, got to be one of the best I have seen O0
-
A flash of inspiration made me shine a bright torch inside the hull, with the lights off, to see if there where any potential leaks
What a brilliant tip. :-)) :-))
This could be our "tip of the year"
Cheers,
Ken
-
ok, after much pondering, I have decided that the superstructure is rubbish, and needs building from scratch. It will take too much work and prep for paint to get it looking nice, so I have decided to make from 2mm plasticard, as this is real easy to work with, and more importantly will be a doddle to paint compared to wood, and it wont rot! also light.
I am using the old stuff as templates, and will do similar for the deck, any imperfections will be hidden by the window frames :-))
-
I had a pm which basically said get on with it, so back to the garage, move all the rc plane projects, and dig the PCF out! I have had a real setback with hobbyking esc's. I was waiting months for the turnigy marine 60a esc's to come back into stock, only to be told before Xmas they are discontinued, and the replacement is also out of stock. I think when I have the esc's and its running properly it will push me on to get going.
Today off work, too windy to fly planes, so did more on the cabin. Luckily (saving time) the original roof is sound, so the new sides are on. The joints are quite weak due to all the peculiar angles, particularly at the front, so when the cyno is dry, I intend to glass fibre the inside to make things strong
-
roof and turret are on, and to make it all very strong, I have used resin and glass cloth on all inside joints, not pretty, but its on the inside! :}
The new deck is cut out ready to glue over the old deck, I hate this part of a build, looking for anything to do other than this :embarrassed:
-
I'm interested again! finally ordered the speed controllers, they are on the way, this means the boat will run properly, (hopefully) as it will have matched esc's for the first time, and I can start thinking about the correct props, batteries etc.
I started sorting out where the comings are going, decided I don't need that huge gaping hole in the deck under then superstructure, its just a big hole that will let in water, so I'm bracing it, and will cover with ply, then fit the deck over this. Cabins are almost complete.
Don't be shy, pipe in with any comments, observations, suggestions, all welcome! :}
-
Don't be shy, pipe in with any comments, observations, suggestions, all welcome! :}
Lonely place here! anybody out there? ;D
Finally speed controllers are here, all set up and its bench run. One motor is a bit rumbly compared to the other, lets hope it holds together! I have disconnected both esc becs and will run a separate receiver power supply. Next day off work, and its getting wet, then I will probably get going on this good and proper, it would be nice to be completed early summer late spring. The milling machine is also fixed now, so I can get on with making fittings etc, at last.
Pity missus has decided its time to decorate my sons bedroom, :((
-
It got wet, but wasn't great. It was too cold, and very windy, within minutes my fingers were dropping off, and the water was too choppy. Esc's worked, but in less than 5 mins it was evident that whilst the brass props looked pretty, they where useless. A dilemma now really, I have loads of spare props, but nearly all are m5, this boat is m4, so my choices for testing are limited. I am going to try a pair of "x" 35mm. (red ones in pic) I have a feeling "x" 45mm will hit the spot though. I noticed that the boat was ploughing a bit, something I experienced whilst building my Fireboat, so I think both props going same direction will sort this, rather than counter rotating. The boat also took in water, disappointingly. Maybe I had not sealed things very well, and there is a small crack that leaks at the rear of the hull, this is why I wanted it running well prior to all the nice work with paint and fittings etc, at this stage it does not matter if it gets knocked about. At least its going the right way and progressing forward :-))
-
I was planning to do another water test today, but it was just too cold, too windy. So, spent some time tidying up. I now have a battery box, the esc's are positioned, I have two water outlets to look like exhausts, and all the water cooling is done. I had to change things about a bit as its a bit tight between the motors, so hopefully the cog is correct
-
Deck is now on, and curing :-))
Next job to do the coaming and make sure the water stays out, there will be too much electrical gadgetry to get wet!
-
started with comings, and I decided I wanted the engine hatches to open like the real boat, then spent hours thinking how to do it, and create something that would stop water ingress..... still thinking!
-
don't want this to happen :o
-
its been in the water. some great success, and some not <:(
So, I tried the esc's and they appear to be fine. I ran the boat on two 3 cell 5000mah lipos, so one 3 cell per motor/esc. I didn't run that long, as I kept getting a loss of signal, which when back at the workshop was a bad servo lead extension. Motors where cold, so I increased the prop size from "x" 40 to "x" 45. The bigger props where much better, no onboard data logging, but the speed was visually better, and the motors didn't appear to be screaming.
COG was way off with the batt packs sitting between the motors, the boat was up on the plane at a very slow speed, and looked a bit silly. In real life, this boat always looked a bit bow heavy, so I moved them forward and it sat in the water better. Water cooling worked, but the exit water from the hull was no more than a dribble, disappointing as I wanted it to be more visible.
The big set back was the water entry into the boat. It seems to be coming from the stern, and I suspect its the rudder mounts. I've had it with the cheapo plastic things, so have ripped them out and will make my own, should have done that from the start >:-o
Now I need some advice on mounting the rudders due to the slight "v" angle of the hull. Ill have to post this question fresh, as it seems nobody is commenting or posting anything in this thread other than me! :((
-
Hi Dave,
many thanks for replying over on the other fresh post. I'm a bit stupid here. I get the wooden block to set the tubes dead straight, great idea, and I had forgotten to make them a bit wider than the shafts, so thanks for that. So, if the block is on the bench, is the block being fitted into the hull, am I cutting a big hole in the hull :embarrassed: :embarrassed:?
The underneath of the hull is a bit of a mess now, and needs glassing , so how do I seal the underside of the tubes as they will not be flush to the hull, not explaining that very well am I, Ill take a pic and be back in a bit! :embarrassed:
-
re the rudder mounting not being square on , you need to knock up two tapered wedge's per each rudder one either side of the skin on both sides if it's twin rudder, the angles easy to work out just set the hull up on the stand and cut a cardboard template to match the hull bottom & there's your angle, the outboard wedges will need to be the minimum possible thickness & faired in to smooth waterflow , inboard ones not so critical thickness wise, the material used will need to be suitable for the hull wether its ABS or FIBREGLASS & glued into position, then drill the required holes, there's a LOT of pressure on rudders in a turn so it has to be secure, it always amazes me when folk just slap filler round a rudder post & expect it to remain leak free.
Bill
-
here is the hull, bit of a mess, I've cleaned it up, inside and outside, Bill can you just explain the wedges again, I'm assuming I need to do Dave's block idea to drill from outside the hull into the blocks I fit on the inside to ensure they are straight, then will they need wedges on inside and outside of hull, when tapered, would the thick end of the taper not be on the outboard side to make the posts straight? I hate this sort of thing, and yes I agree, I don't do blobs of filler just hoping it will be secure and not leak. :-))
-
Paul
Does this help explain? There's no reason why you shouldn't incorporate blocks inside the hull as well as the P40 fillet; you'd need to drill the holes exactly at 90° however. The other way would be to make the blocks to fit roughly, then slide them over the brass tubes on the inside to act as supports and P40 the lot to the hull.
Bill
The type of models I am talking about are Model Slipway's scale workboats, not very fast electric launches. The loads on the rudder are not very great (unless you hit something like a submerged brick!). Some of the Slipway models do have cast white-metal collars to support the joint between the hull and the rudder tube. I posted the drawing simply to prompt ideas, not to give a definitive method of doing the job. I know very well that my way isn't necessarily the best or the only way.
P40 is a pretty good medium for supporting rudder tubes, having chopped strand glass incorporated into it. It's not like P38, which is a filler and has little inherent strength.
-
Hi Red, your motors and water pickups appear to be mounted on blocks glued onto the hull floor. I would suggest that the rudders also need to be mounted likewise. Resin or glass a pair of blocks centred on the location of each rudder. Externally use masking tap to cover the previous holes. Having the deck in situ does make matters more fiddly but this is do-able. Block needs to be a around 1/4" - 3/8" thick. This will give lots of support to the rudders. When the blocks have set invert the hull and carefully drill out for the rudder tube holes carefully keeping vertical alignment throughout. Remove the exterior masking tape and tidy up the outer hull.
Dave's advice to offset the shafts from the prop's centreline is a very good idea. Props can be removed and the shafts can be withdrawn in the future without needing to unship and disturb the rudders.
Alternatively you could repair the damaged hull inside by using plastecine to cofferdam the damaged area and pool resin into the coffered area having first taped over the holes externally. later you could then bond in the mounting blocks as given above. I find the toughest part of any job is thinking through the best method, doing is usually far easier than anticipated.
-
Oops! Double posts. Dave has given an excellent diagram.
-
Thanks chaps,
Dave, that's the picture I needed to see! :-)) I was making too much fuss about the outside of the hull, its all inside the hull where the work is, the picture tells the story, not much room in there but it has to be done, so its tidy up the mess first, and make the jig :}
Be back soon!
-
sell it to meeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
-
WHY cant we see Dave's rudder pics
Dave
-
O0 WELL that's what was needed to get the thread going again ! Each has their own idea of which way to do a job , you do what your comfortable with . . . you dont have to hit a brick to wreck y'rudder, a plastic bag will do an admirable job too when it wraps around the prop , the modern rudder assemblies are usually cast nylon mounts with a flange on t'bottom & a thread to tighten down securely so they have to butt up sq. with something to be secure , the strand reinforced isopon sounds good for the outside and use it inside to build up a sq. face ? Being ex shipyard I tend to over engineer things , but I do what I want to do . . . . :P
Bill
-
I've made a start, with wedges and the jig. When I was working with HS93 a couple of years ago, he was raving on about a gadget called a wixsey (I think). I paid little attention at the time, but recently it turned up in some bits and bobs I didn't sell for him. So I had a play with it today, and wonder how I have managed to survive with out it!
Using this little gadget, I was able to measure the angle inside the hull at 10 degrees, then made some wedges for inside the hull. Ive done a cardboard template for the jig, so the plan is wedges and blocks in the hull, pre drilled so I know the holes are straight vertical and true, epoxy them inside the hull, use the jig to position the rudder tubes, that I have to make from brass, turn over hull, pour resin in to fill all the nasty holes etc, and lock the rudder tubes in.
I want to try and make some sort of chamfered end in the tube for an o ring to sit in, hopefully these will not leak. If anybody knows a better way, shout up! Thanks to all comments, its nice to have a conversation going, and thanks to mods for merging the topics
-
I've had so many problems with those moulded things that I've stopped using them for anything except a flat-bottomed hull. Usually the nut won't screw down the thread for more than a few millimetres and, as you say, if the face of the flange doesn't fit square with the bottom of the hull then no amount of compressing the O-ring will seal it. I don't particularly like the weird shape of the tiller arms or the way they are clamped onto the shafts. I prefer to make my own rudders, shafts and tubes from brass and use Raboesch or Robbe tillers with metal inserts and grub screws. I've found that P40 is very good for fitting brass prop tubes and bow thrusters into GRP hulls, too - but hey, that's just me.
Paul - just an addendum after seeing your post appear as I was about to Send mine; If the tops of the rudder tubes are above the waterline then it's unlikely you'll get any ingress at all - at least not that way! If you do then try fitting a short piece of silicon tubing to "sleeve" the joint between tube and shaft.
Suit yourselves. 8)
DM
-
Hi Red 181.
I am on the Wirral as well, and have a Vietnam era PBR (River Patrol Boat).It's an old cabin cruiser that I have modified to make into a mean looking PBR. It's 4' long and I took it for it's maiden trip last monday at Hoylake pool.All's well with it except the wash from the boat, ended up with some water in the boat and blew one of the speed contollers. It's twin screwed and goes very well.Got new speed controller today from Steve Webbs shop., so planning to give it another trip out this sunday, weather dependant.Will be there 11 to 11.30 am if you fancy coming down.It's based on the 30' boat the Americans used. There were several types of various shapes and sizes.
Cheers
Dunc
-
hi dunc
I was there sat :}
im working sunday so cant play out and due to "other projects" I doubt I will be ready by this weekend sure we will catch up soon. paul
-
started making the rudder tubes. Managed to do it so the rudder shaft sits in a rubber "o" ring, hopefully these will not leak, I'm not doing this job again!
-
A good video, the first of two in the series.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ZKuELYP2yQ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ZKuELYP2yQ)
-
really good, not seen that before, I have read all the Brown navy stuff, looking for pictures, video footage etc.
-
Hi Paul,
Ta for reply, hope to catch up with you soon.I'll ask my wife down soon to do a video of my boat and put on forum.
Your boat is really taking shape now, a good build blog.
Cheers Dunc
-
jig and wedges are ready!
-
it was back in the water yesterday, good news the rudders are dry, no leaks, but now the water pickups are leaking! >:-o and I still have that stuttering from motors, a signal issue or something going on.
Also, the rear engine covers are leaking, so its back to the bench and strip it all down, again <:(
I used the same receiver and in turn each esc in another boat, no problems at all, so changed out all the wiring for the second time. The rx is mounted nice and high, so its not a 2.4 and water issue. Water pickups refitted, and for now the hatch covers are just taped over, I will have to rethink how these are fitted to make them water tight. When running, the boats makes quite a bow wave so water is hitting the decks.
On full throttle I am getting torque roll, so will have to change to counter rotating props. It runs well so I suppose I could go slower! {-)
All ready for another test, and its pouring down
-
ran it again today, and very pleased to report the stuttering has gone, I put that down to a faulty servo extension lead, and they where all new!
I am thinking of fitting longer and bigger spray rails, at speed the rear part of the deck is getting very wet, and now I have to sort the water leaks :-))
-
Is anybody reading this???
Progress today was exceptional :-)) :-))
I sanded the original short spray rails off, they were doing nothing, and far too much water was hitting the deck, compounding the water leaks. Using square profile 2mm plastic strip I fitted full length spray rails front to back hoping that this would help with the amount of water hitting the boat. On test today, in slightly choppy water, I am really happy to report it worked, the deck is now almost bone dry, after 20 mins throwing it all over the place.
It also greatly minimised the torque roll, although right hand turns at speed against the direction of both props need to be handled with care to prevent the boat digging in and trying to go straight on. Counter rotating props will sort this.
The rear covers are in the process of being modified to be water tight, and the first version which was just taped on worked, the inside of the hull was dry, with the signal problem sorted, I can now finally move on from the mechanicals to the cosmetics and at last think about starting the paint and fittings
-
I'm reading this :P
-
Yes red......even from 22,000 km away........that cooling water setup shown in the twin aft deck hatches looks :o .......like a plumbers nightmare ... O0
When will you install the new handed [counter rotating] propeller's?.........keep us posted on progress :-)).. Derek
-
I'm reading this too from down under 8) 8) It's going well. :-))
-
Hi Derek,
well its when I can afford them! Annoyingly I have a couple of 5mm pairs, but no 4mm that are big enough. I actually started painting tonight, all exciting stuff now! :}
Those last 3 responses must be the most worldwide responses in succession on any thread! :-))
-
Hi Derek,
well its when I can afford them! Annoyingly I have a couple of 5mm pairs, but no 4mm that are big enough. I actually started painting tonight, all exciting stuff now! :}
Those last 3 responses must be the most worldwide responses in succession on any thread! :-))
What size do you need?
-
Not sure yet Gary, probably same as my Fireboat, that's buried deep in the garage, so when I get close to back on the water I will dig it out.
So, got some primer on, still a lot to do with pre paint prep, but now I know what it looks like in grey. At least this boat will not have to be a fussy paint job, its going to look battered and bruised, so imperfections don't really matter ok2
I am really undecided about the colour scheme. Green was the river boats, and probably the more popular and well known, due to various war films, Grey was the coastal boat. I have some crew lined up, that are in green, so I assume they are Army/Marines, which would be the River boat, and maybe the Coastal boat was Navy?
Any comments welcome please
-
Looks fantastic in primer. Green always works very well with the battered look where Grey can be harder to get right for the dirty used image.
I normally like to go against the grain but I'd say go Green.
Alex
-
thanks for all the replies, oh, there was only one :(( so green is ahead at the moment, Thanks Alex :-))
Rear hatch covers are on, rivet detail from dressmakers pins, they took ages! I have a cunning plan to hide the locating bolts under some deck clutter. Once the boat is completed there will be very little need to take these covers off .
Its finally starting to get interesting
-
Rivets are a pain to detail.
I have one of these little lovelies which I picked up off eBay around 5 years ago for £25.
(http://www.009.cd2.com/members/how_to/images11/7.jpg)
It's a GW Models Rivet Tool and they do become available occasionally on eBay but you don't tend to want to get rid of it. The chap making them sells them for about £52 inc postage although I've heard there can be a waiting list.
It pushes a perfect rivet shape at many different scales from 1:78 through to about 1:24 through a series of interchangeable punches and will go through styrene sheet, brass or aluminium no problems. I believe there is also a more advanced model available now for about £30 more but I can't really imagine how it could be improved.
Alex
-
Duplicated my own post - apologies, can admin please delete? {:-{
-
One motor is a bit rumbly compared to the other...
I bought a brushless motor from Hobby King and it screamed like a Banshee on anything over 1/2 power. I stripped it down, knocked out the ball races and replaced them with some good quality ones from eBay - now smooth as silk and purrs even on full chat. I suspect that the bearings supplied are produced by the million and not subject to any sort of quality control.
Dave.
-
That's a fab bit of kit Alex,
Good point Dave, Cheap motors equals cheap components, I will swop the bearings out if it gets worse. For now, I'm on the fun cosmetic things, could not bear going back to mechanicals just yet! :}
-
off work today, so after ignoring all the jobs my Missus wanted doing, it was in the shed for a long haul this morning making stanchions. I couldn't find what I wanted anywhere, and the original white metal ones where broken, bent or horrible. After spending another £30 getting the GREEN :} paint mixed I have to keep the costs down, so its out with the scraps of brass, and 3 hours later the parts are done, just need drilling and soldering together
-
spent way too long on these :}
-
They look perfect to me, so is there ever a case for spending too much time on one item ?
I've always spent too long on most items of a build, but it means I'm happy with most if not every one of the bits I've used. . . . . Think of it as enjoying the journey rather than rushing to the destination.
-
thanks rob :-)) at least they wont fall off after all this work! I started with 15 thinking have some spares and now down to 12 :}
-
Lovely job on the stanchions.
Certainly no chance of spending too much time on them. I had a right job trying to find some off the shelf ones for a recent build. I've hacked down and tweaked some others but despite the price paid for them, and a good few hours put into it I'm really not happy.
Wish I had the tools to scratch make them so beautifully like you've done here.
If the results right then the time taken was never wrong!
-
some more done, never throw ANYTHING away, even small bits of brass, especially small bits of brass, :-))
The bollards are an unusual shape, so made my own, and again, these suckers are not falling off, so used m3 bolts to secure on the deck
Remember when your parents had a brass set of brush, poker and shovel next to the fire (even when it was a gas fire! %%), well I buy this sort of thing from car boot sales, for a few quid, you get a lot of brass in those things, and it can always be used for something else! :}
-
some more scrap brass put to good use. I didn't have the Samson post at the front, so had some time off work today and put it to good use :-))
-
no sigh of the wife, so onwards with another task, whilst the scrap brass box is out, and the lathe is plugged in, start the rear deck searchlight. The original one just didn't look salvageable
-
Time to finally get the paint out. I want to complete the hull and deck, then move on to the wheelhouse etc after that. I had an idea about weathering. The PCF was an aluminium boat, so there isn't going to be any rust, so I thought about painting any area that will get damaged, knocked, and generally worn out with aluminium paint. The green can go over this, then when I weather the boat, gentle rubbing should reveal the aluminium paint, in theory it should look ok.
Any comments about weathering and "dirtying up" welcome, come on! its getting very lonely here :((
-
You could try a technique used by the large scale aircraft modellers for scuff and chip marks. Using the aluminium base paint put some dabs of Vaseline where you want the wear to show. You then spray the top coat and when this has dried you can remove the paint over the Vaseline. After cleaning you are left with the aluminium showing through the top coat.
Jim
-
Hi Red
If you check out the St Helens open day thread you can see my PCF and PBR may give you some ideas
I painted mine then dry brushed aluminium paint very gently in areas that would get wear.
Sub
-
Hi Sub, I'm a member of St Helens, I was working last weekend so could not go, and was gutted to see your PCF was in the water.
Well last week I had paint mixed, and put into rattle cans, not the cheapest way to do it but picked the colour from paint samples. Its supposed to be matt, but isn't that matt! and I just can't settle on the colour, it just looks too green! Its more like the colour you would paint a Bentley back in the Le Mans days, really undecided, carry on, or get a lighter green. Every image on the web seems to be a different shade of green {:-{
Good news with this build is I don't have to be fussy, so all the dents dings and paint imperfections don't matter!
Opinions welcome please!
-
yep, too green >:-o That £25 down the drain! >:-o
-
Hi Guys,
I did a Foam, brushless Swift PCF for Model Boats Mag recently and have several modellers building from the plans that e.mail me for hints and tips. One guy from the USA, who sadly passed away a few weeks ago was on the actual boats and he was really helpful with info. Regarding the paint colours he told me that those boats were put through hell and looked atrocious after 6 months of patrol. They were apparently only painted properly once at the factory and the crews in Vietnam would steal paint, any colour they could, to cover up the bright aluminium. So they all, according to him were a mixed mismatch of colours, scrapes and patches.
So If you plan to make it look just like a well worn one, your green colour would serve as a base before you start the weathering. Humbrol dark green earth is a pretty good colour but I wouldn't cover all the base coat with it, patches, stains , mud and vegetation rubbing against it as well as wear and tear gives you carte- blanche to make it look really shXXXtty! just like the real ones........Hope this helps.
Ron.
-
Thanks for that Ron, I have looked at dark green earth, its a bit too brown for me, but led me to a humbrol paint chart, and the green grass looks good, I need to find an aerosol to match. Plasticote appears to have vanished from b&q, homebase etc, which only leaves Halfords, unless I go the mixing route again.
Its rubbed down again, ready for the next colour. The aluminium undercoat failed, as I rubbed down, I went straight to primer, so maybe the suggestion of dry brushing will work. Not that keep on the Vaseline route, it will be very messy to clean off
Paul
-
Hi Red.
Tamiya olive drab XF 62 Acrylic is the colour you are after for the riverine colour scheme. O0
But as always its up to you the builder to choose
regards sub.
-
Thanks Sub! The heads up on the colour was just what I needed to get back on track. I went to Halfords, and nearly bought a couple of rattle cans In some random car colour, but popped into hobbycraft next door first. Got some thinner for acrylic paint, some decent detail brushes, but was really struggling with the humbrol aerosols, £5 for 150ml was steep, thinking I would need 6 for the complete boat, so ended up thinking lets give my little airbrush a chance, at less than £2 a pot for acrylic water based paint, it was worth a punt, so got two humbrol aqua olive drab pots.
Now I'm not that good at airbrushing, but here are the results, I'm well chuffed, and only used 1 pot for all the hull decks etc, so the whole boat will only have cost less than a fiver, ignoring all the money I previously wasted. I love the colour, and the matt finish, it will look real good when detailed and weathered :-))
-
I have finally settled on the boat I am modelling, well at least the number! It has a nice "human" story, as below
"PCF 98, HIGH&DRY after entering the rice paddy. PCF 98, about to be refloated in the new channel dug by TF 117 forces.
3 April 1969 --- These pictures are definitely worth a thousand words ... and here is the story behind the pictures!
While on patrol in the Mekong on Good Friday, 3 April 1969, at about 0500, my boat spotted a radar blip which appeared to be in the water about 150 yards off the starboard bow. We accelerated to 'attack' only to discover that the higher then normal tide had over-run the riverbank and our radar took the tree line, about 500 yards inland, to be the end of the river! We hit the mud at full speed and literally slid inland about 75 feet. As it turned out, the 'blip' was a random tree in the middle of a partially submerged rice patty.
My crew consoled me, claiming that when the tide came back in we would just float back off, that is until I verified it was a full high tide at the time we went inland. We were ankle deep in water all around the boat, which was listing to port on the "V" bottom.
As the sun rose, the tide went out and there we were, HIGH and DRY! Fortunately, the repair ship USS Phoenix AG 172, was on station in the river about 1 click downstream. I radioed for assistance and a small mike boat was dispatched with several enlisted men, who made disparaging remarks as they approached. I was taken back to the Phoenix and escorted to the CO's stateroom, he was busy shaving and when I told my story he just shook his head in disbelief. He promised to help and when I returned to my boat I found my crew had commandeered several shovels from the peasants, who had came to work in the rice patty, and were now busily attempting to dig us out!
I sent a 100 word "FLASH Message," in code, to SEPIA, trying not sound like a complete idiot for what I had done. The CO of the Phoenix was great - he coordinated with the Army and had one of the Riverine boats, that was equipped with high pressure water pumps, intended to wash away bunkers, travel overnight to our location and it dug a channel behind us. When the tide came back in, we were pulled off. Fortunately, there was no significant damage to our boat. The Phoenix laundered our uniforms, feed us Easter Sunday Dinner and we then returned to Cat Lo, after having been aground for about 36 hours, during which time we spent one very nervous night with local RUFF PUFF's, who stood watch around us in that muddy rice paddy.
Douglas Scott Martin, OinC, PCF 98"
Also a commended crew member
COMMANDER
UNITED STATES NAVAL FORCES
VIETNAM
The President of the United States takes pleasure in presenting the SILVER STAR MEDAL to
BOATSWAINMATE SEAMAN JAMES H. AKERS
UNITED STATES NAVY
for service as set forth in the following:
CITATION
"For conspicuous gallantry and intrepidity in action against the Viet Cong while serving as twin fifty-caliber machine gunner of a Swift Boat (PCF-98) attached to Coastal Squadron ONE in the Mekong Delta, Republic of Vietnam. On 12 May 1968, Seaman Akers' Swift Boat, in company with PCF-102, pursued an evading enemy waterborne craft into the Bo De River, an area of known and intense enemy activity. As they closed upon the enemy craft, both Swift Boats came under intense 57 mm recoilless and automatic weapons fire from both densely jungled riverbanks, and PCF-98 was immediately hit by two recoilless rifle and numerous small arms rounds. While aggressively returning fire at the enemy, Seaman Akers' position was hit by an exploding recoilless rifle round, jamming one of the twin fifty-caliber machine guns, tearing off his right shoulder and inflicting numerous and serious wounds to his stomach, back and legs. Ignoring the agonizing pain of his wounds, and the continuous loss of blood, Seaman Akers refused to leave his battle station. He cleared the remaining gun, and directed devastating fire on to the enemy firing positions until an explosion knocked him unconscious to the deck below. Seaman Akers lead the assault with his superbly accurate fire, permitting the combined firepower of the Swifts to locate and silence the enemy. Seaman Aker's selfless heroism, bold initiative and extraordinary determination, combined to save his shipmates and his craft from certain destruction. He was that day a masterful gunner and a heroic figure. His actions reflected great credit upon himself and were in keeping with the highest traditions of the United States Naval Service."
For the President
E.R. Zumwalt, Jr.
Vice Admiral, U.S. Navy
Commander U.S. Naval Forces, Vietnam
All details taken from here, it took a while to read about every boat :-)
http://swiftboats.net/
-
Hi Red.
Much better now its the right colour. :-))..just another heads up...when you varnish it use matt varnish you will find that it will darken in colour to give that olive colour and not so green as is now...i personally use Humbrol clear cote sprayed with the airbrush goes on a treat after thinning with Humbrol thinners.
Regards Sub.
-
Red,
Greetings.
If you do clear coat, could you then repost the pictures?
I have been trying to imitate / match an off-colour of the Olive Drab. The Tamiya Olive Drab XF 62 Acrylic is close for me, but if the clear coat darkens it a smidge, it will be perfect, so would be anxious to see your finished hull.
Sub.; Do you use Humbrol clear cote or the Humbrol matt clear cote ?? Do you have a picture of a Hull that you have sprayed with both the Tamiya Olive Drab XF 62 Acrylic and the Humbrol clear cote, that You could post ??
As a side story; When I ask the "old timers" what colour my particular Tug was (pre- WW II), they all reply "Well You know, it was a 'Cow $h!t Brown' colour." They all say the same thing, unfortunately no manufacturer makes that colour. (Unfortunately, no colour photos from that era exist, of my Tug.)
Thank You.
Tug Hercules
Fireman Rick
-
Hi i will post a pic of mine on here shortly so you can see the difference in colour before and after varnishing. It clear cote MATT i used.
Sub
-
I have never used the airbrush for such a big area, when varnishing, I wonder if it will cause a problem as the airbrush will only cover a small area at a time, so I have to go over it again and again to lose the stripe effect , not sure if the varnish will go patchy?
-
Hi
the paint didnt go stripey as you overlapped each cote and sprayed it up in layers...same for the varnish have the nozzle set on a wide dispersal area...but if not sure paint a test piece on some scrap card and then try and varnish that...as always its up to the builders preference if not confident test..test..test..and practice makes perfect until you get the hang of it but the paint will at some stage need sealing.....but its up to yourself
sub.
-
Hi,
Sorry I didn't catch this thread earlier.
Swift boats, or any of the MRF ships/boats, weren't Olive Drab but USMC Green.
You can see in the photo of PCF98 that it is a much more green colour than Olive Drab.
For interest, US Marine Corps green is FS24052 and Olive Drab is FS34087 (as was, now FS34084).
FS24052
http://www.colorserver.net/showcolor.asp?fs=24052
FS34084
http://www.colorserver.net/showcolor.asp?fs=34084
HTH
-
Hi.
Check out
www.swiftboats.net/extras/boat_specifications.htm
the colour scheme for riverine use does not mention USMC green but just Dull green and black.
Most boats appear closest to Olive Drabb than green even the pics Red posted appear Olive drabb not US MC green and most other colour pics tend to support this ....but who really knows.
Regards sub
-
bit late now Sandy!! where have you been? %%
Anyway, its not changing now, and by the time its weathered and beaten up it will look very different. If you look at the two pics of 98, the last one looks grey, I think these boats where a cobbled up mess when it comes to the colour after some service, at least the Bentley le mans green has gone! {-)
Paul
-
started on the "dirty up process. its good fun this, compared to having to recreate perfect paintwork on previous builds. 1st time I have tried this weather thing, so still some to do, but you get the idea. I have been using a selection of paints and things, and generally playing around with a little airbrush. The best thing so far is humbrol weathering powder, it created the "lumpy mud" in the corners etc
-
:-))
-
now I have realised I have lost 3 of the 4 white metal engine hatch hinges >:-o
so more work, now I have to make hinges, more bits of what should be scrap pieces of brass coming to good use :-))
-
I need ammo belts for the guns, anyone got a source for them? The ones I have are white metal, but there isn't enough, and they are rough, What scale is this boat please! %%
-
Hi.
Its 1/16 scale.
-
I need ammo belts for the guns, anyone got a source for them? The ones I have are white metal, but there isn't enough, and they are rough, What scale is this boat please! %%
Could be worth getting in touch with these guys:
http://shop.afvmodeller.com/customer/product.php?productid=18109&cat=387&page=1
-
cheers chaps. come all this way and didnt know the scale :embarrassed:
great link TC :-))
-
search light is done, and it works, with a 5mm led installed
-
The rear gun, which is a 50 cal browning piggybacking an 81mm mortar was a real job and a half. The bits I had where in a bad way, and some bits where missing, so it took a while, but this is an important part of this boat so needed completing
-
The hardest part was the missing protection cage, this protects the operator from the recoil of the mortar, I would think it also catches the mortar shell. I made it from thin brass plate, and had to drill a lot of holes!
-
Some paint hides all the faults, weathering has become my best friend :} Ammo belts are on their way, that will be the finishing touch!
-
Looking great, but how's the gunner going to fire that bmg with no handles or triggers? ok2
-
"xxxxx"! I forgot the handles, thanks for the heads up, more work...... :(( maybe it will fire with the remote control from the skybox , it does pretty much everything else :}
-
Looking great, but how's the gunner going to fire that bmg with no handles or triggers? ok2
Leave it on Automatic, it will just use up the ammunition a little faster %) %) %)
-
we have ammo, and something to fire it! :-))
-
The ammunition obtained certainly improves the look of the 50 cal. 8)
-
took a bit of patience painting the individual ammo, I heated it up a bit to make it "floppy" and a more realistic look.
Now, help needed, the twin 50cal in the turret, I cant work out what this is supposed to look like, inside the turret. I think the guns are mounted on some sort of rail, so they can swing left and right, anybody got any pics, info etc?
-
It's mounted on a rail inside, I don't believe it does a full 360 degrees, I think it's more like 270. I'll see if I can get a pic
-
Thanks Andy, I have scoured the net, not sure how it works, I know when not in use the position straight up and I'm not sure yet how to do mine. I have some crew on standby, bought them two years ago, but I need to see if I can make one look good for the turret, if not then the guns need to be in a stored position as I don't know if they are level when not in use, if you know what I mean!
-
red181........there are 100 images here.....many to chose from..... Derek
https://www.google.com.au/search?q=vietnamese+fast+patrol+craft+military&biw=1707&bih=610&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=O1OHVcPzG4n38QX6g4KIAQ&ved=0CBwQsAQ
-
(http://static.rcgroups.net/forums/attachments/2/0/0/4/1/7/a3350377-117-PCF%2071%20Rt%20Gun%20Turret.jpg)
-
Whose is that Andy?!! :o
-
I have used those pics loads its a beauty. American owner from a few yrs ago
-
hi derek. yes loads of pics but nothing inside the turret. thats what I am after
thanks for efforts
paul
-
Martin it could well be Andy's
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,51145.msg524230.html#msg524230 (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,51145.msg524230.html#msg524230)
But he hasnt updated his thread HINT HINT HINT Andy
Dave
-
Oops %)
(That's because I haven't done much to it)
-
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1252529&page=2#post15508791
-
started with the wheelhouse and cabin etc, took ages to do the handrails, in brass. I have painted them aluminium so I can add "wear" after the green paint is finished,
now I am struggling with the mast lights, some pictures have two red one blue, some have one red, one blue, one white, noit sure what to do, I want them to work. Also, no further on with what the inside of the turret looks lie, so cant establish how the twin 50 cal guns are mounted, anybody any info?
-
Thats already looking better than my one, very nice.
There's a ring around the turret just where the inside flares out. This rotates as a whole unit inside two rings as well, one above and one below. Each gun is mounted on the diagonal side of a triangle and these are joined together by a tubular pivot that moves up and down, inside and at the top edge of a square 'C' section upright box girder that is fitted to the moving ring at the front.
Some guns were fitted with the side mounted ammo boxes which meant the cocking handle and cover plates were moved from the right to the left hand side of the left mounted gun, and there was often a loader standing inside the railings with a supply of filled boxes ready. Most, however were belt fed and I have seen pictures of the ammo belts resting around the ring, so they moved with the gun assembly. As far as I can tell the gunner stood on a half moon platform that was at the bottom of the turret where there was a semi-circular cutaway for the empty shell casings to fall down into the cabin!!. There were bags often fitted each side of the guns or slung under this cutout.
If I could work out how to attach my photos to these messages I could put them on the site, but my computer doesn't seem to like it!!!(Or I am doing something wrong.) a bit of tech training needed here!!
Hope this helps..........Ron
-
If you troll the WW2 Elco 80 PT Boat info sites the double mount on the Swift Boat is virtually identical but set lower in the turret. Unfortunately I cannot find my photos taken from the surviving original PT Boat preserved in the USA. It is their standard twin fifty turret mount which remained modified from WW2 and continued in use thoughout the Vietnam era. The Swift turret edge is flared and set higher to give more protection and was used for shore attack rather than anti aircraft use. This site has some good drawings:
http://www.pt-boat.com/
-
Thanks for that detailed description Ron, and the link Perkasaman provided this!
This info and links should get things sorted, now, what about the mast lights chaps!
-
got some more done today, paintwork, and some details, more on them later. Todays main project was making the auxiliary throttle housing, and it was out with my home made vac former to do this!
The housing was made from a scrap piece of wood, then I waited for the wife to go out, the oven is needed and it will be very hot, and stink of melting plastic, so she must be out of the house before I start :}
-
So now I can cut the top off the wooden block, and trim the vac formed top. Reason for all this, it would have been so easy to just have the throttle housing closed, but I want it open, so now I have the exact size and shape for the top, its been painted, so should be fitted tomorrow, it will all make sense then! And will hopeful look something like this
-
It now has its number!
-
moving on slowly, the "little tasks" seem to take ages.
Wiring the mast was a real labour intensive thing, not only was it awkward, I managed to break or knock most of the mast detail, got that bit wrong.
So mast will have 3 lights, then the rear deck searchlight, and the two nav lights on the turret, the forward searchlight on the wheel house, and finally, two more searchlights on the turret. All led's, which are not exactly scale, but can be seen. Then some normal pygmy bulbs for cabin and wheelhouse, these will then have a more realistic "yellow" appearance. My club holds a few evening meetings where members are asked to bring boats that illuminate, this certainly will.
All will be powered from this
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html
I have one of these in another boat, its a very clever, and very cheap piece of kit
-
After much studying, it appears that no two of these Swift Boats are exactly the same, however I have spotted on a number of them the turret searchlights, so decided to make them.
Very fiddly, but I found a use for the tiny 10ba and 12 ba nuts and bolts I have:)
need some final cleaning up, bulb insertion and the lens, should look nice!
-
Am having problems with the link, Incorrect link message
-
try this
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__26114__Multi_Remote_Receiver_operated_on_off_Switch_UK_Warehouse_.html
Wired up the front wheelhouse searchlight tonight, takes flippin ages to solder tiny wires, fit small led bulbs, and remember to solder in the resistor so they don't blow! %%
-
try this
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__26114__Multi_Remote_Receiver_operated_on_off_Switch_UK_Warehouse_.html
Wired up the front wheelhouse searchlight tonight, takes flippin ages to solder tiny wires, fit small led bulbs, and remember to solder in the resistor so they don't blow! %%
Thank you, :-)) works fine now, that is a nice bit of kit O0
-
most of the wheelhouse, cabin etc, and the turret, is plastic, so it wasn't a great ideas to decide to solder the rail that goes on the mast with a blowtorch! but it was the quickest way to do it. I don't even know what that thing is for!
-
some of the lights being fitted.
I now have
3 mast lights
2 nav lights
2 turret searchlights
rear deck searchlight
front wheelhouse searchlight
and will soon have the cabin lights and wheelhouse lights
Its going to be bright when all those are on, seeing as I have the hobbyking toy to work them all, why not? :} :}
-
I think that the railing on the mast is to protect the mast from being shot by the gunner. %%
I'm sure that I've seen something similar in an old photo of a warplane, from WWII or earlier. - Tom
-
That makes sense, as with most weapons on these type of craft the weapons had 360 degree traverse.
Some system would be needed to used, instead of relying on the Gunner to remember to not depress and traverse the weapon and "shoot" up his own boat in the heat of battle.
Build is looking good :-)) :-))
-
that makes sense. I would probably end up blindly shooting everything and cutting the mast in half! :}
-
Love this thread - and love the detailing
Cant wait to see the finished boat!
-
The thing you soldered is a deflection guard rail that restrictserts the arc of the twin barrels from shooting up the boat as the gunner traverses rearward.
-
started the wiring, and got most of it done today, the end is in sight! %%
-
so the lights now work, although they do need a fair bit of tidying up. I have used bright LED's, not scale, but a bit of modellers license here, as I want them to be visible on the lake in dull or dusk conditions. I have used grain of wheat bulbs for the cabin and wheelhouse, then they will have a more realistic yellow light, and are under voltage so remain a bit dim.
The hobbyking sequencer switch for the money, a few dollars/pounds, is real good. You get a choice of sequence for the lights, you cant just programme it yourself, shame, as that means you cant just select one light, on and off, etc. But for the very infrequent times I will want the lights, its fine. I have to decide on the final sequence, this was just a test run, for some reason the settings on the camera are off as the lights look way brighter than they actually are!
Put your sunglasses on before you hit the youtube link below!
https://youtu.be/E2hBsLOH_bQ
-
Looks fantastic but I did have to look away when the first Green came on and assaulted my eyes, can't say you didn't warn us though!
Those HobbyKing controllers are great value for Money, I have one sat somewhere awaiting some LED's to control. Think I paid about a fiver for it.
-
I have just found this thread and have had a read through. Excellent job and it's going to be a great boat.
Cheers
Tom
-
did a lot last night, hung a rope on the front rail :embarrassed:
-
sometimes you just get a bit of luck. Yesterday in work new kitchen cupboards where getting fitted. I saw the answer to the gun mounting problem for the turret.
Back home and a day off work today, so wasted most of the day messing around making the mount for the twin 50 cal machine guns
-
Now that I am inspired to carry on, its time to clean up the guns, and piece them back together. Many layers of paint by previous owners had hidden much of the detail, it was a painstaking job to scrape all the paint off.
Trial fit on the mount in the turret, and the gun sits too close to the operators backrest, so I had to cheat and move the backrest furthert back. Hopefully once painted it will look ok O0
-
I need some advice regarding final painting, I have posted here
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,52195.0.html
If anyone has any advice it will be most welcome
Thanks
-
Hmm..
The painting is now causing a potential problem. A lot of the weathering was done with humbrol weather powder. You mix it with a colour, like earth, thin it a bit, and dab on, creating lumpy mud. What Humbrol don't actually tell you, is that it needs sticking to the model, and sealing, with other products. Really annoying, it should state this on the bottle! So, if I wet my finger, and rub, it comes off, not great for a boat! >>:-(
After a lot of late night reading and watching youtube, it should have been mixed with something like decalfix, guess what, a Humbrol product, and then sealed with a clear cote, another Humbrol product >:-o
So, do I get it all off, and start the weathering again, or push on. I decided on the latter, then after use, if it starts looking bad, I can get it off then.
I was now forced into buying a selection of products, and testing them. Youtube favourite seems to be Humbrol matt clear. I want to retain a matt finish, thats real important to me, so it was a good job I tested this first, the results, with an airbrush, was a silky almost dull gloss finish
I also had an acrylic matt varnish rattle can, instead of a lacquer. Not cheap at £5.00 for a diddy tin, but was real good, very matt, but I'm not convinced it has sealed the weathering. Its such a good matt flat finish, I decided to do the hull. On the red, perfect, on the green sides, there was a bit of paint reaction, but looks ok. There is enough left to do the deck etc, so Ill give that a go in the morning. Hopefully it will look ok, and will seal things in ok2
-
Everything seems to have now locked in, using the humbrol acrylic matt varnish, everything else was pretty useless. I am sure I will lose some weathering, but it might add to the realism! It has dried real nice and dull matt, just hope it will actually do something to protect the paintwork {:-{
Yet again spent an age making something real insignificant, but you know when you want something just so... it was this, the top of the flagstaff. I wanted the flag to hang with a degree of realism, I hate those flags that just sit there like a piece of cardboard.
Mounting the flag was a special moment, I have been looking forward to this as it is what this boat is about, with its history . I wet it, and used the clamp to pull it down, and sprayed it with hairspray, Hopefully it will keep some sort of realistic shape. :-))
Not far to go now, notice the turret still isn't done
-
PROGRESS!! :-))
Back in the water today, good and bad news. It ran fine, no signs of that earlier electrical glitching, however, the water leaks are back, just the same as before {:-{
So, if I hold the boat and let the motors scream, its bone dry, so no water entering round the rudder tubes, water pickups, or shafts, all the usual suspects. Run the boat without cabin etc, its ok, fit the cabin, and its got a load of water washing over the deck, as it did back at the beginning. Even with everything taped up, the water is getting in somewhere, and it looks like its over the deck, towards the rear, that's were it all is.
This is a setback, I suspect that I have made an error when the spray rails where fitted. Way back then, this cured all the water entry problems, now the boat is heavier, sitting lower in the water, I think the spray rails could be too low <:(, also, the break midships in the coaming is where most of the water is getting onto the deck, so I might have to fill that in.
I really cant be bothered! :((
some pics, no idea what setting the camera was on, but it looks foggy!
-
That Mekong river fog mist looks very realistic Red :-)) .....image 181041 brilliant O0 .....if it is deck wash, you will sort out the leakage .....just perseverance ......Derek
-
yeah it is a bit weird!
I can start on the crew once the water stays in the lake and not in the boat :((
-
so, between working all weekend, I managed to grab a test Saturday night. I have resealed a few things, particularly the two panels on the rear of the deck, under the panel I fitted clear plasticard so I could visually inspect inside the hull, and sealed them with silicon bathroom sealer, so its sealed, but not permanent. I also fitted with clamps, so a temporary test, higher sides to the deck.
Back in the water, the wash on the deck had certainly been minimised, but there is too much water going on the deck. Its bound to leak again, and looks pretty rubbish, these tests are on a pretty calm lake, so in choppier water I envisage leaks!, so after all this effort I couldn't ignore this, and accepted its time to take drastic steps. Earlier in testing, fitting the spray rails eliminated this water ingress problem, now the boat has become heavier, the cure must again be the spray rails, so off they come :((
(its not quite as wet as it looks, it decided to start raining!)
-
8.00am, before work, whilst others are having the Sunday morning sleep in, I'm moving the spray rails up, with a temporary fix just to see what the results are. It was hard breaking them off and spoiling the paintwork, but it has to be right when in the water.
Back to the lake after work, and its way better. The higher sides didn't do much, I wish I had someone with me to video, then I could see the stills and work out exactly what is going on, but with raised spray rails the boat sits better on the water, handles better, and there is much less water going on deck. After 20 mins or so, minimal water in the hull, I can now raise the rails just a tad more, and fit/paint again.
Very relieved! :}
-
someone has finally sneaked in to the turret and mounted the twin 50 cal brownings :-))
Crew............ now there is something, I think they have to look real good, or not at all, that's my opinion. I got some figures ages ago, remodelled this one to look like it fits. Jury is out at the moment
Wrong uniform, but hey, that can be overcome with some imagination, Marines are on a special ops... :D
I don't want to repaint them as I think I will lose the detail, especially skin tones etc. This guys right hand just would not fit, so I gave him the Marlboro, and the box under the helmet strap! ok2
-
water trials again today, the spray rails now permanently fixed again. It was a choppy windy day, so not the best of conditions, but I'm happy to say very little water ingress, and given the conditions, it has passed the test
Running with two 4 cell 2150 mah lipos, it ran for at least half hour with 3.8v per cell remaining, cold motors, so that was pleasing.
I tried more props, the 45mm "X" plastic props, these look horrible, but do give the best speed, a pair of brass counter rotating and a pair of brass 3 blade counter rotating, all form a spares box, so size and pitch is unknown. I tried them both turning outwards, and then inwards, the latter appeared to be best.
The "X" props do perform the best, so maybe the brass ones just for show!
-
Back to the workshop, and some painting to the lower hull is needed, and some minor cosmetic finishing, all set for its maiden public outing on the venetian night this Friday, I thought lets give the lights a go again, and wouldn't you just know there is a problem >:-o
The rear deck light is inop (I think I have fitted the wrong resistor and its blown) but worse is the turnigy light sequencer is playing up. Its fine until another channel, such as the rudder, is used, and all the lights go off, the sequencer resets itself. I have tried different channels, different supply packs, allsorts, but cannot fathom it. Now I will have to contact Hobbyking, lets see how quick they can help me {:-{
Some pictures of todays testing :-))
Rear gunner is awol (paint still drying!)
-
Well, she certainly looks good on the water - find someone you can trust to operate the boat and see if you can get some shots of her at speed - we would love to see her in action, so to speak. O0
Regards,
Ray.
-
yes I really need to do that, will try to enlist a camera man, (family!) so I can pilot, I have to have expo into the rudder channel at speed so it doesn't get too twitchy and roll, as this looks unrealistic, then at slow speed, I turn the expo off, so the turns are tighter. Even after only a few trials, its funny how you sort of know your own boat, and can feel it, making it look more realistic on the water O0
-
That's an excellent idea Red, I hadn't thought of the intricacies of her handling :embarrassed:
Looking forward to it anyway....
Regards,
Ray.
-
red...irrespective of the performance >>:-( ..... the inboard turning 4 blade brass props look immeasurably better than the plastic ones ... and considering the superb detail you have created with the build in general you owe it to yourself to keep the brass props in view :-))
I suggest that prototypical looking props would have a far greater score than a model that was just slightly faster....after all, it is a [fast] patrol craft O0......not a speed boat <*<...............Derek
-
your right Derek, its going to be brass counter rotating, the plastic ones do look awful, and the brass ones where given to me ages ago by a departed friend and mentor, so its got a nice feel about using them, but the 3 bladers, they go better!
I Have to say Hobbyking have really come through. I contacted them tonight regarding the possibility the set up was wrong on the light unit, bearing in mind the boat is going to a venetian evening, the thought of the lights going off, and the boat disappearing into the darkness wasn't nice! :((
We entered an on line chat, and after brief conversation I was put through to a product specialist, we chatted about the set up, I provided a brief video, the operator stayed online for an hour with me, end result a new unit is being dispatched in the morning from uk warehouse, I hope to have it by Friday, I would like to thank Hobbyking, their postage will probably be the same as the value of the item, I cant fault their service, its always been good since the uk warehouse opened :-))
-
now all the music lovers....
I need some music tracks, Vietnam era, I need to create a soundtrack for the boat. I have the album for "Good Morning Vietnam", but need more songs, from films, radio etc, anything the crew would have listened to, please find some! :}
-
Glad to see you're going with the brass props Red. O0
Hope you get your lighting sorted in time for the venetian evening. :-)
Regards,
Ray.
-
I just needed a slap from Derek <*<
-
now all the music lovers....
I need some music tracks, Vietnam era, I need to create a soundtrack for the boat. I have the album for "Good Morning Vietnam", but need more songs, from films, radio etc, anything the crew would have listened to, please find some! :}
Obvious ones:-
"Rolling stones - Paint it Black" Theme tune to "Tour of Duty"
Anything from Apocalypse now
http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0078788/soundtrack
Especially Ride of the Valkyries :D
-
You could also throw in Little Richard's "Long Tall Sally" (from Predator) :-))
Regards,
Ray.
-
Obvious ones:-
"Rolling stones - Paint it Black" Theme tune to "Tour of Duty"
Anything from Apocalypse now
http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0078788/soundtrack
Especially Ride of the Valkyries :D
Definitely as the tune is played by the Cavalry, in Helicopters, as they come in to land with a couple of boats slung under the choppers.
Very appropriate tune. O0 O0 :-)) :-))
-
keep em coming guys :-))
-
I have a play list, using a bluetooth speaker it was good, but too fussy and the range was a bit short, so I'm just going to use an sd card in the speaker.
Tonight I attended the St Helens Model Boat Club venetian evening. All went pretty well, the light unit was replaced by hobbyking, but I'm still having problems, so could not have them turning on and off on the water, had to wire them so just on, next weekend is Wallasey and Hoylake venetian nights, they are both very close so would like to attend, with a working light switch, so some work to do to figure out the problems.
I ran the lights on a 3s lipo, from now on I will use a 2s as they where too bright :}
Boat ran well, and virtually no water ingress! we are nearly there, I will try and get some video soon :-))
-
busy day today, making
a box :}
-
Well, at least you have made something. Any progress is exactly that....progress. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
-
need a lot of green paint %%
-
well its pretty much a finished model now, not settled with the props, with 4 cells per motor, it should perform better, but will be ok for now. I have even finished the box!, weights a ton, and took longer than the boat, but you got to love a good storage box! {-)
Got some nice pictures on the Da Nang Delta river, Vietnam (Crosby, Liverpool) with a sort of realistic background, and a video, Ill post that up later. Now its finished, its another to my collection or what to do with it now! :embarrassed:
-
more
-
Well done Mr D great build and interesting thread, your sound track has to be 'Ride of the Valkyries',
the atmosphere it creates in Apocalypse when the helicopters are attacking - is priceless. zippy
-
Hi Mr Z, long time no speak, glad to see you lurking back there!
I have a selection of music for the boat, yes it starts with the march of the valkries,couldnt leave that one out!
But... I have something ready for the video soundtrack, just got to figure out how to edit the video,
So now its finished the intereting part is over, it owes me too much in money and time to just be an ornament, so have to think about what to do with it now, or it will end up in the collection of unused boats.
Paul
-
You have made an excellent job of the Swift and the backdrops of your pics are very realistic and impressive. 8)
-
Thanks for great comments chaps, :-))
sit back, turn up the volume, this was very tricky, piloting the boat and videoing at the same time!
Now dig deep in your wallets, I have a strong feeling there might be a new entry in the for sale section soon :-X
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3LbzPmiatM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3LbzPmiatM)
-
The video soundtrack brought back some amazing memories. :o Amazing. :}
-
I think that model would be the Jewell in anyone's collection.
Would seriously consider the road trip across the country to buy this myself but Christmas (expensive with 4 teenage children) and other commitments mean I'm gonna miss out >:-o