Model Boat Mayhem
Mess Deck: General Section => Chit-Chat => Topic started by: Brian60 on February 07, 2015, 05:13:51 pm
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Have you ever bought anything on the offchance you can maybe make use of it in the future?
Well I did this last year with am Ebay bargain. Today I took them out of the packet for the first time and here's one of them, any ideas what it is?......
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It looks like a circuit board LED. Did it come with a finger ? {-)
ken
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Yep I bought 200 surface mount led's for 99p, thinking I could use them for deck lighting at some point. How in God's name I'm going to solder these I have no idea! Hers' another photo of one next to a standard 3mm led.
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I think you gonna need a magnifying glass. The secret is not to put the solder iron on them, but introduce a 'tinned heated wire' to the end caps. :}
maybe !!!
ken
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Perhaps a low temperature solder, I had some that worked at 70 degrees but you'll need a variable temp iron.
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At such a bargain price you can afford a couple of failures O0 O0 %) %) %)
Was still a good idea, done all the time.
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Hello,
Clean the sides of the solder iron tip, then wrap some 1.5 mm copper wire tightly round the tip , pull the end of the wire out over the end of the tip, and use the wire to solder with.
The wire is now a very small solder iron tip !!!.
Smaller diameter wire can also be used - - with care !!.
Necessity is the mother of invention.
John. :-))
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Iīm just trying to describe how I solder those small LED.
I use enamelled copper wire for it, otherwise the wire is thicker than the LED. The one with the black varnish is much better since you see if itīs damaged.
To remove the varnish on the ends of the wire just heat it up with the solder iron and some tin on it.
Then I put the LED on double-faced adhesive tape and just solder the wire to them.
I use a normal temperature controlled solder iron and 0,5mm solder wire (with lead!!!).
If you can pull the LED off the tape on the wires and it doesnīt fall off, the soldering was good.
Needs some testing with a lot of not anymore working LED but now I break maybe 1% of the LED I solder.
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Those surface mount components were intended to be placed on circuit boards by robots, IIRC. When humans need to work with them, the humans sometimes use stereo-microscopes to see what they're doing, again IIRC.
Tom
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It can be done but heat will kill them . You need to be in and out quickley with the soldering Iron and cool the led stright away . I did a few and broke a far few few of them . You can buy them pre wired
john
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http://www.thinkgeek.com/product/b70c/ (http://www.thinkgeek.com/product/b70c/)
or this:-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CONDUCTIVE-SILVER-PAINT-WINDSCREEN-ELEMENT-REPAIR-PAINT-L100-/371200998560?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item566d4dbca0
No heat required :)
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Wow guys, some good ideas for tackling the problems there. I'll try some of them and see how I go, but to be honest ieven at 1/72 these are too small for what I intended. If I can solder any of them I may use them as indicator lights on the bridge consoles.
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http://www.thinkgeek.com/product/b70c/ (http://www.thinkgeek.com/product/b70c/)
or this:-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CONDUCTIVE-SILVER-PAINT-WINDSCREEN-ELEMENT-REPAIR-PAINT-L100-/371200998560?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item566d4dbca0
No heat required :)
Brilliant piece of lateral thinking. You learn something new all the time. :-)) :-))
Wire glue is readily available in OZ O0 O0
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How are you going to do this? with great difficulty I should think but I'm sure you will find a way. Good luck.
Cheers,
Peter. :-))
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Brilliant piece of lateral thinking. You learn something new all the time. :-)) :-))
Wire glue is readily available in OZ O0 O0
I have used the heating element paint to repair a damaged circuit board track on the central locking remote of my car. 2 years on its still working :)
cocktail stick, magnifying glass, a steady hand and the patience of a saint.... job done