Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Steam => Topic started by: ooyah/2 on March 22, 2015, 12:02:28 am
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Some months ago I purchased a part set of SCORE castings, most of the cast iron parts were there but none of the Gunmetal Con Rods, Cross heads or eccentric straps.
The good part about the purchase was that the Cross Head slides were machined to a very good standard and only needed to be lapped in.
As the SCORE is basically a D!0 but Horizontal the machining of the cast iron castings have already been described on my D10 build so I shall pass on the machining of them and consentrate on puting the engine together and fabricating the Con Rods and Eccentric straps from stock material without having to purchase any bits from Stuart, well that's the plan !!!!!
No 1,
The box bed had to be clampped down on the milling table and a cut across the face to take the engine main frame, it was then turned over and the base scimmed.
No 2
Thye Gunmetal bearings are as per the D10 and are shown marked off ready to be drilled and tapped for 7 b.a. bolts.
No 3 & 4
Bearings boltted down with a temperary shaft in place after reaming the bearigs, the Cross head trunk guide as can be seen are already bored out to a good srtandard and only needed a light lap.
Next job is the Crank shaft.
George.
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Continuing with the SCORE build here ar some pics of the progress so far
The flanges on the main casting already being done when I bought the castings they still had to have the holes drilled to take the bottom covers.
Like the D10 flanges the hole pitch on the drawing is 1.125" p.c.d. and on the D10 I ran out of metal so this time I made the p.c.d. 1.063" p.c.d. and this worked out well. The holes were done on a rotary table with the bottom cylinder covers done first and then the holes marked thro' on to the main casting flanges.
The cylinders were mounted on a mandril and drilled out on the rotary table and all went well. I must say that whoever designed the engine didn't take into account getting the nuts onto the studs on the underside of the cylinders, I eventually fitted them but they all have to come back off to drill the steam and exhaust ports.
The main shaft was made and the bearings bored out and the central bearing is split in order to get the bearing onto the shaft.
Here are the pics so far, next step is to drill out the stean and exhaust passages in the cylinders and make the top covers to fit.
George.
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Having completed the main shaft and bottom covers with the cylinders fitted I started on the Con Rods.
I had hoped to use 2- gun metal casting of con rods but found that they were for a D10 which has centers of 1-11/16" and the Score centers are 2" so I decided rather than buying 2- castings from Stuart that I would machine them from M/Steel.
I made 1- which was pretty rough but it was an excercise to get the dimensions correct.
No 1 is of the 2- castings.
No 2 the 2- castings and the temperary Con rod that I made.
4 & 5 is the con rod fitted to the engine casting.
No 6 I made the conrods from a piece of 3/4" dia EN1A Mild steel starting by counter sinking both ends of the bar and setting it up in the 3- jaw, as the eye of the rod is .560" across the the diagonal corners I machined the bar to .580" dia and would eventualy square the eye off to take the cross head pin leaving 3/32" of the bar end at 3/4" dia.
No 7 Set the top slide to 1 deg and machined the taper of the Con rod to the same length as the sample one which was 1/4" at the thick end reducing to .210" at the narrow end.
The Rod was left at 3/4" dia to take the bearing block at a later stage.
N0 8 Is the machined rod ready to square off the eye and make and fit the bearing all as the sample one at it's side.
Machining EN1A mild steel is a very pleasant process and with a good sharp honed round tip tool pruduces a very fine finish so the next step is the bearings and then the cross head it's self which is another 2 - items to make from my stock box.
George.
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Continuing with the Con Rods,
No1 .
The base of the machined 3/4" dia bar to take the bearings has a 3/16" dia x .032" spigot to locate in the bearing top half. the bearing is made from 2- pieces of 3/8" thk hard brass but has to be reduced to 5/16" on 1- face to give an O/All 5/8", each half has 2- 7ba clearance holes to bolt them together.
No 2.
The holes can be marked off using the top half with the 3/16" dia location spiggot and the 3/4" dia can have the flats machined at a later date.
No 3.&4
The bearing can be machined to 3/4" dia using the main M/S body and when taken down to the diameter it can be squared from the Lathe Cross slide, at this point the tool which is set at D/center can be used to scribe a line across the bearing face for machining the bore.
No5
The main body of the steel Con Rod has to be changed from round to, rectangular, only 1- side is required to be milled flat at this time , this is the large side to take the Con Rod eye.
No 6.
The Con Rod is mounted in the 4- jaw and the Center for the bore found, before boring clock the Face on 2- axis with a D.T.I. and then bore and ream the hole 9/32" dia .
No 7
After reaming the bore hole wrap some paper round a piece of 9/32" dia rod and bolt the Con rod assembly to it, it can then be machined to size including taking the original 3/4" round to 5/16", turn around and the other side done likewise.
N8.
The steel Con Rod is now set up in the mill and the other side is milled to size, then the 1/4" slot is milled out with a1/4" 4- flute end mill to suit the Cross head. and to form the Eye.
Once this is completed turn it over and drill thro" for the cross head pin.
Drill thro" to take a 5b.a. Cross head pin on 1- leg of the eye and them drill the other 1- and ream 5/32" all on the same setting.
No 9.
Both Con rods are now completed and ready to be fitted.
No 10
Both Con Rods fitted and the whole assembly turns over smoothly and very slightly tight which will go away when the engine is run in..
Next job is the Cross heads, which is a simple turning job.
George.
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George
This build is proving to be as much a joy to behold as your previous - of the D10! O0
Many thanks for your profusion of excellent pictures.
Mike
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Hi Mike,
Glad to hear that you are enjoying the built of the SCORE engine. I was fortunate to buy the castings on ebay with quite a lot of machining already done but there are quite a few bits that will need to be made from the stock box.
The next biggest job is to bore all off the inlet and exhaust ports in the cylinders which I have already posted on the D10 build, which if this weather holds it may be a little while before I get around to completing the engine.
The least little bit of sun and the Garden beckons.
How have you progressed with your Clyde Puffer?
George.
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George
I'm sure your machining is infinitely superior to any achieved by any Ebay seller! O0
My puffer is progressing slowly (as ever!). I have been waiting for some warm weather to do some spraying - and today is perfect! However, as you point out, there's a lot needs doing in the garden. {:-{
Mike
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While awaiting some Cast Gunmetal for the slide valves I pushed on with the Crossheads which is a simple turning job, once fitted and sliding freely I drilled out all of the steam and exhaust passages in the cylinders, marked off the holes for the Steam chest and before fitting made the gland nuts for the bottom of the steam chests where the valve rod goes thro'
All the assembly so far turns over freely, not too freely , as it will have to be run in
Pics ! & 2 show the assembly so far.
George.
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Making the eccentrics which are 3/4" dia I Cut off about 2.5 from a bar of 3/4" dia EN1A Mild steel and intended to make the 2 eccentrics from the 1- piece of bar.
As the Eccentrics have a 3/32" throw my usual method is to put a piece of 3/32" steel packer under one paw of the 3- jaw chuck but as Malcolm B. in my D10 build said that this was not the correct method to get the throw so I marked off the bar end and centered the 3/32" offset in the 4- jaw to see if there was a difference to my method, which I shall report when I have the Eccentric and strap assembly mounted up.
Before starting it's important to think ahead in order to have as much maching done on the one setting before going from the 4- jaw to the 3- jaw chuck.
No 1.
Having centered the bar the boss was turned to 1/2" dia x 7/32" long, bored thro' and reamed 9/32" dia.
No 2.
I have a rear mounted parting off tool holder that has 2- blades, one at .090' thk and the other .045" thk and with the broader one I cut down to 5/8" dia and the intention was to make both of the Eccentrics on the one setting and finaly parting them off when completed.
No3.
At this stage the job was then taken from the 4- jaw and mounted in the 3- jaw to machine the grooves for the strap fixing bolts.
No 4.
The grooves being machined with the thin parting tool.
No 5
The first boss was drilled and tapped to take a 6 ba. grub screw and the assembly was locked to a piece of 9/32" dia rod, the grub screwed boss nearest to the 3- jaw face and the other end of the rod held in a revolving center.
With the broad parting tool I plungged down to go thro' the 9/32" rod leaving 1/4" dia which gives a clean cut to the Eccentric boss, do the same at the middle and you then have 2- Eccentrics ready to take from the rod.
Do it this way as if tried to do when in the 4-jaw the tool will snatch and possibly break as the offset hole revolves and the tool breaks into the bore..
No 6
2- finnshed Eccentrics
No 7.
Machining the cast Fltwheel, grip the central boss in the 3- jaw and drill thro' and ream 9/32" dia.
Back to the 9/32" dia rod and after drilling and tapping the boss for a 5 b.a. socket grub lock the Flywheel to the rod and mount it in the chuck with the other end in the revolving center, machine the face and 1- side, turn it around and machine the other face.
No 8.
Eccentrics and Flywheel fitted to the engine.
Next step is to make the Eccentric sheaves, I have 2- off but they are for a D10 engine and are 3/16" shorter, I am not sure yet as to whether just lengthen the valve rod, or to make them like the Con rods and made of steel in the shape of full size, I shall have athink on it.
George.
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MAKING THE ECCENTRIC SHEAVES
I had considered making the sheaves using the bottom part of the D10 sheave casting and making a connecting rod to the valve rod in steel, however I found in my spares box a pair of sand cast sheaves from a previous build of a Stuart launch engine which were long enough and would do the job.
No 1 &2
The sand casting was mounted in the 4- jaw and using a steel square sitting on the top slide it was squared of on 2- axis by tapping them with a small hammer to bring them up to the sqaures face.
This doesn't need to be super accurate as the sand castings are very rough so this method is adiquate.
No3.
Centering the bore to run as true as possible, a clock gauge can't be used here as tthe castings are very rough
No 4
Using a small boring tool the casting is bored out to .75" to suit the previuosly made Eccentrics.
No 5
After boring using the same setting the casting was faced off with a .020" cut.
The sheave was removed and turned around and by the same method of squaring in the 4-jaw it was machined to the correct thickness.
No6
2- holes 7 b.a. clearance are required in the sheave befor cutting a slot in 1- side to take up any future ware.
No 7.
The finished sheaves and the Eccentrics fitted, the only thing to finish is the eye drilled to take a fixing bolt thro' the yoke in the valve rod which will be done when the yokes are made.
No 8.
Is the sheaves and the Eccentrics fitted to the main shft.
Next to do is the yokes and the pistons.
George.
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Brilliant again George, you must have a surprising spares box!!
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Brilliant again George, you must have a surprising spares box!!
Boneash,
I did have a surprising spares box but it is now seriously depleted.
Over the years of building and buying Stuart engine castings on e-bay I did accumulate quite a few spares, brought on by modifying parts that I never liked and making them more to full size practise.
At present I may just have about enough parts to build a 10V and 3- sets of Stuart steam driven boiler feed pump castings but they will all be for next winter as gardening is now about to take over and my other passion of cycling when the weather heats up.
Have been a cyclist since I was 7 years old and now at 76 enjoy getting out around the lanes where I live, can still manage 30-40 mile runs with a Cafe break in between at half way.
Thanks for looking in.
George.
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Hi George, what is the purpose of the bolt through the side of the sheave that isn't cut?
Jerry.
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Hi George, what is the purpose of the bolt through the side of the sheave that isn't cut?
Jerry.
Hi Jerry,
I have often wondered on the very same question, all of the Stuart engines of the No 10 size are like that and you would have to go back in time to the original designer to find out why.
I have come to the conclusion that it is purely cosmetic and acts as a balance, I don't think it would look right with just the 1- bolt.
I must at some time treat myself to a slitting saw as the slot cut with a Junior blade has wondered a little.
George.
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Thought Id poke my nose in to see what youre up to.
She is coming on well :-))
I recently had to buy some slitting saws and yes it broke my heart having to part with my pennies. I found some at one of those cheap shops (Boys) round here.They come in a pack of three the arbour is rubbish but saying that the little saws work well and making a decent arbour was no hardship.
You know this steamy stuff will never catch on
cheers
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I can't cut a straight cut with a hacksaw to save my life! The slitting saw and arbor for the Taig is difficult to use due to the limited throw of the cross slide and the milling attachment. If you can do a cut it does a lovely job.
Jerry.
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MACHINING PISTONS & VALVES.
No 1.
The pistons were machined from a piece of 1" dia down to 3/4" dia.
I would have prefered to use a piece of 13/16" dia brass bar as there would be less waist but needs much and the 1" bar was all that I had.
After turning down to .75" + .015" both off the pistons were turned on the one bar and then drilled and tapped 5 b.a. straight thro' both pistons.
With a rear mounted parting tool the "O" ring grooves were cut to size and then parted off.
No2
Pistons were mounted on the 5/32" dia rods screwed 5 b.a. , the rods being made to size, the pistons can then be screwed to the rods, mounted in the 3- jaw and can be skimmed to suit the cylinder bores.
No 3.
Pistons now fitted and screwed down with the tool in the fore ground. I would recommend not just on the Score engine but any engine that will need the pistons to be removed to get to other parts.
The tool is a very simple one but worth it's weight in gold, for instance ,if I had the cylinders all bolted up to the main castin to get the pistons out everything would need to be dismantled, with this tool it's a simple job just to unscrew them.
No 4.
The valves require a recess on the bottom , I used a piece of Cast Gun metal and milled a .030 deep square 9/32" x 9/32" in the bottoms.
No 5&6
Turned it over and milled an 1/8" wide slot to take the buckle and then at 90deg milled anothe 1/8" wide slot to take the valve rod.
No 7.
2- completed valves.
No 8.
Valve fitted to rod in the steam chest and a 2M x 3mm socket grub to hold the valve in place. It's so much easier using the grub screw to make the final running adjustments
with no need to unscrew the rod as the drawing shows.
This method I was shown by one of my Loco builder friends who told me that it was standard practise to make the buckle like this.
I will continue with the build, next job will be the top cylinder covers and then all the packing cland fittings before tackeling the inlet and exhaust pipes.
George.
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PIPE FLANGES AND OIL CUPS.
Over the weekend I started on the pipe flanges, the steam pipe is 3/16" dia and the exhaust is 1/4" dia
No 1
I mounted a bar of 1' dia brass and counter bored one end as a support with a revolving centre, my intention was to part the discs off of the bar after making a 1/4" dia x 1/16" spiggot to locate in the other disc.
Setting the parting tool to cut down to 3/8" dia x 3/16" long, leaving the disc at 1/8" thk. The 3/8" dia turned piece is left longer than required as it gives something to grip when turned around in the chuck.
No 2.
The disc is then bored thro' 7/64" and counter bored 3/16" x 1/4" deep and finished with a 3/16" "D" bit and the 3/8" boss is reduced to 1/8" long. this is where the steam pipe will be S/soldered in.
The 2- discs were then mounted in the rotary chuck and the fixing holes at 5/8" centres were drilled, the bottom half was tapped 7 b.a. and the top half was drilled 7 b.a. clearance.
No 3.
After much filing and shaping the first steam flange was made, only another 3- to make. It's quite amazing how much material can be taken of with a good file, I keep files for brass and files for steel and never use the brass files on steel.
Similar to hacksaw blades, I have 2- hacksaws 1- with blades only for brass and the other for steel, if the saw for steel ids used to cut brass the saw will wonder as the edges are worn as soon as you cut steel and I use only Sandvik saw blades.
No 4.
Showing 1- finished flange and the other at the disc stage ready to be filed to shape.
No 5.
Just had time to make 3- oilers for the main shaft bearings.
Chuck up a piece of 1/4" A/F hex brass and machine with a round nosed tool to 1/4" long, centre drill and drill down 5/16" with a 3/16" dia drill, cut off enough material to make a srewed thread on one end 5/32 x 40 t.p.i. and turn it around and machine down to thread the end 5/32" x 40 t.p.i. x 5/32" long and at the same setting drill thro' a .030" oil hole.
Repeat for the other 2- off.
I hope within the next few days to solder up the steam pipe for a first trial run on air.
George.
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EXHAUST FLANGES.
Continuing with the flanges, Having completed the steam line which is shown on pic
No1&2.
This was fitted after silver soldering and a bit of a polish
No3.
The 1" dia bar was set up in the 3- jaw and the end counter bored to take the revolving centre.
With the parting tool I could then machine down to make the 1/4 x 32 " t.p.i. connection and the doing the same for the next flange but not parting off at this point as a support is needed.
No4
Having machined down with the parting tool doing the same to form the dia to thread 1/4 x 32 t.p.i. and the small location bosses I used the Junior hack saw to cut off the first blank and then the second.
Don't forget to have a protective board on the lathe bed as when sawing off you can fall thro' and mark the lathe bed, especialy if using a bogger saw..
Both discs can now be finished to size in the 3- jaw. and bored thro'.
No 5.
The completed blanks. still to be shaped to the flange size.
No 6.
Blanks screwed into the exhaust outlets now ready to be shaped.
George.
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COMPLETING 1/4' dia EXHAUST PIPE.
After cutting of the blanks from the 1" dia brass bar the flanges were shaped using hand file to shape them and with the 1/4 x 32" t.p.i. they are screwed into the exhaust ports.
No 1 .
The flanges had to be made for S/Soldering to the 1/4" dia pipe, theses were made from scrap piece of 1/4" thk brass plate ,turned to thickness in the 4- jaw with a 1/4" hole drilled to take the pipe on 1- side and a spiggot to fit into the flange in the exhaust port and finaly hand shaped with a hand file and drilled for 7 b.a. bolts.
No2.
To form the TEE pice to take the 1/4" pipe on 1- side and a 5/16" x 26 t.p.i for the other side connection apiece of 3/8" square brss bar was cut , drilled for the pipe and the screwed connection on the other and a 1/4" dia hole was drilled on 1- flat side.
No3.
The components to make the TEE piece connection
No 4.
The TEE piece ready to S/Solder.
No5.
TEE piece S/Soldered ready to solder in ther 1/4" dia exhaust pipe.
No 6.
!/4" dia exhaust pipe S/soldered into TEE piece.
No 7.
Exhaust pipe cleaned up, polished and fitted to the engine.
That completes the Steam inlet and Exhaust pipes.
I can now complete the Cylinder covers and the packing glands for the Piston rods and with a bit of luck it will start on air before stripping down and painting, before trying it out on steam.
George.
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George that really is quality craftsmanship - keep the updates coming :-))
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George,
You must be working full time on this engine, especially with the amount of hand crafting you are doing.
But of course ellipses are are pain for a lathe or milling machine.
I so wish I still had access to a water jet cutter!
Lovely work.
Rod
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Mark,
Thanks for the kind comments and as I am nearly there I will keep posting as I go along.
Rod,
I actually don't spend such a great time machining but as the weather up here has been terrible there has not been any time to get out into the garden so the machining can get a big hit.
The ellipses on the flanges are all done by hacksawing off the big bits and hand filing the rest after turning the blanks on the lathe.
I don't have any machining experience as I served my time as a Millwright in a large flour and cattle feed mill in Glasgow and it was all about maintenance and installing new and heavy machinery and when my time was out I went straight into a design office as a draughtsman and never ever went back to the tools.
One thing that I was taught as a lad was how to cut straight lines with a hacksaw and how to use a file.
I now keep 2- hacksaws, 1- for steel and 1- for brass, likewise my files are 1- set for brass and 1- set for steel
It's quite amazing how much metal can be removed with a good file.
So now that I have a milling machine it's quite a luxuary but still inclined to finish off with the file.
Thanks both of you for yor comments.
George.
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Funny you should say that George; when I started my apprenticeship I did about 6 weeks of nothing but filing >>:-( I complained (as you do at 15 years old) and was told that when I had become proficient at filing they may let me loose on other tools and machines. At the time I felt so hard done by but in hindsight they were simply teaching me how to do things the right way. The truth is - If you can file straight, accurately and flat - well the rest is pretty easy with a bit of common sense.
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Hi Mark,
It's so true and if you didn't do it correct you received a "CUFF ON THE LUG" until you did get it correct.
Them were the days !!!!!!
George.
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I have to admit that quite often I do wonder if going down the "I.T" career path was such a good one. Over the years I have lost many of the manual "Craft" skills I learned at school (Cutting and filing straight being 2 important ones)
Now as I'm getting on a bit I'm slowly amassing a simple workshop so I can do these sorts of things.
Hopefully one day I can create things like this with my own hands..... one day
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Just a ramble by an oldie, My Dad trained as a Marine engineer in the RNZAF during WW2, and can remember way back when I was a preteen, he was teaching me to file in our workshop/garage. Complained once to often about being to hard, my muscles ache, etc. So Dad, not saying anything went to one of the drawers, pulled out a steel cube, one inch on a side. Said, right, your not to touch any other tool in this shop, or say anything, until you can show me a replica of this, and laid the cube, and the micrometer on the end of the bench, along with a hacksaw, piece of mild steel and a file.
Well about three months later, finally got close enough for Dad to accept that I'd tried, and now appreciated that nothing comes without a lot of hard work.
That steel cube, was Dad's from his training days, and wish I still had it.
Still can't get one as accurate as his was.
cheers
:-))
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Nice work George :-))
I remember the cuff round the lugs well and still use many of the profanities my gaffer used.
The one inch cube used to be punishment duties when youd made a boo boo in my first employers shop or you were given some sheet brass and had to hand cut Cathedral clock frames out and god help you if you cocked that one up as they were his Christmas fund.
A little aid for cutting straight I was taught is simply to scribe two lines close together and it does help me to keep a cut straight or simply use the vice jaws to keep you straight. Another little tip that I was taught to get rid of machining marks/dings is dont make them in the first place usually followed by the clip round the lug you soon learned and kids today think they have it tough.
Cheers!
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ENGINE COMPLETED AND RUNNING.
Well here I am at last, the engine had the steam line fitted, lashings of oil all around and the air link connected and although it turned over very smoothly it was a little tight.
I had to set the compressor at 4 bar to get the engine to run, switched on and away it went.
I was not too pleased at having to set the pressure at 4 - bar so after about 10 mins run I stripped out the piston to discover that the groove for the "O" rings were not deep enough and once rectified the engine ran very well, the pistons are easily removed using the special tool with the prongs to fit the holes in the piston crowns, if this tool had not been made it's a long job stripping the cylinders from the frame to get the pistons out.
Unfortunately my camera has a fixed speed shutter and the pics posted show the engine stationary but in fact it's doing abot 900 r.p.m. I must try the kids next door to see if they with their phones can take a moving pic of the engine.
At present it has been stripped down and the castings have had their first undercoat and once gloss painted I will post the final pics.
George.
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Beautiful engine George well done ,only one comment if I may is when you machined the piston on the three jaw chuck, as my experience is they are seldom accurate enough especially for this critical part of the engine,my preference would be to mount the connecting rod and piston in a suitable collett but then again your three jaw may be spot on ,please don't take this as a criticism just that I have been following your progress with great interest and the quality of your work had me believing you have been doing this for yonks
Cheers
John
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Hi John,
Thanks for your comments.
In the past when I still had the Chinese 3- jaw I did use many self made collets to hold things like piston rods e.c.t.
About 3- years ago I purchased a new Pratt-Burnerd 3- jaw chuck to replace the Chinese one.
I used the existing screwed back plate and made the O/D of the B/plate .010" under the regester size in the back of the new chuck, the fixing bolts are from the front so I finger tightened the socket head bolts and put in a piece of 5/8" silver steel bar, using a dedicated Jaw to tighten up the the bar( No2 jaw )I clocked the bar and by gently tapping the chuck with a copper hammer had it running true .
After tightening up fully I rechecked the bar and it still regstered .00000" to this day as I have never had a tool dig and it's still running true, as long as when I am looking for accuracy I tighten up with the key in the dedicated No 2 jaw I don't need collets.
I now have the Chinese 3- jaw mounted on a large rotary table given to me by a friend which I now find invaluable for pitching holes on any P.C.D. that I need.
John you must remember that I am not a trained machinest , only self taught over these last 16 Years of retiral, so never be afraid to comment on any of my postings as I am never to old to learn, so don't worry about critiscism which if I ever think that it's out of order I will soon tell you, like wise if Anthing that I say out of order please pick me up on it.
I do value all of the questions asked during the build of the D10 and this Score engine, so thanks again for your input.
I have stripped the engine down and all of the castings so far have had 1- coat primer and 2- coats of enamel green paint. they may need another coat , at present they are sitting of top of the C/Heating boiler and stinking the room out, no comments "YET" from s.w.m.b.o.
George.
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FINISHED.
After it's second coat of Green enamel paint and left to harden overnight I assembled all the parts and ran it on air, it self starts on about 30 p.s.i. as it's still a little tight so over this weekend I will give it a good run in with plenty of oil.
It's been good to machine up the castings, those that were not already done when purchased, but I found that I had to push myself as I was getting bored, I think it was because it was so soon after the D10 so hopefuly as the weather gets a bit better I can get out and about over the hills and far away on the bike.
The garden needs some attention but again it's freezing cold up here, snow is falling on the ski slopes and everybody is very busy, it's to cold for me.
So thanks to all that have hung in there I do hope that you were not bored to death.
Here is a selection of the finishrd engine and thanks to my friend Hyslop who suggested that I switch off the flash on my camera I have been able to show that it actually runs.
George.
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Propper job!
Jerry.
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Lovely.... I need to try my hand at building something like that
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Thanks George for your informative reply regarding the three jaw chuck as I am sure a lot of members will benefit after all that is really what a forum is about to exchange thoughts and practices so thanks again for your very well produced engine build series and hope to see more in the future
Regards
John
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George
Another shining example of your prowess! Many thanks for sharing it.
Regards
Mike
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Nice work as ever George....
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An Excellent build thread
Well done George. :-)) :-)) :-))
ken
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Hi George you have really tight bends on you're pipe work what method of pipe bending do you use , spring , machine or other ,kind regards Allan
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Hi George you have really tight bends on you're pipe work what method of pipe bending do you use , spring , machine or other ,kind regards Allan
Allan,
I have a small bending tool that I made which can be made for 5/32 - 3/16 -1/4 dia copper pipe.
The most used is the one for 5/32" copper pipe, it has 2- 1/2" dia rollers each with a groove machined with a round nosed tool, like a parting tool, and the groove is .010" wider than th3 5/32" pipe and deep enough so that the centre line of the pipe is below the rim of the rollers to prevent tube collapse when bending.
It's a very simple tool and others can be made to suit whatever pipe that you use.
For 5/32" pipe the rollers are 1/2" dia.
for 3/16" pipe the rollers are 3/4" dia
For 1/4 dia pipe the rollers are 1' dia.
Hope this helps.
George.
By experiment you may be able to make the rollers smaller, here are some pics of my tube bender with 5/32" dia tube having a 90 deg bend.
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Hi George very useful little tool there next on my list ,does the pipe need to be annealed or as is ?
cheers
John
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Hugely enjoyable (and informative) build George. Many thanks for sharing.
Greg
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Hi George very useful little tool there next on my list ,does the pipe need to be annealed or as is ?
cheers
John
John,
When the copper pipe comes in a coil it is already annealed and bends easily, if you have to re-straighten the pipe then it becomes work hardened and you have to re heat and anneal it.
George.
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Hugely enjoyable (and informative) build George. Many thanks for sharing.
Greg
Hi Greg,
I am glad that you enjoyed the build of the SCORE and the D10 , to all of the others who have made kind remarks I thank you.
I shall now have a rest and clear up some of my unfinished projects.
George.
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Hi George
Just having a rummage around the web and found your feed.
It is really good to see your work, as we have said before it's a shame you can't bottle it and pass it on.
Apart from the wonderful machining, (it always fascinates me how different people set up a job to machine)
You must be congratulated on the quality of your photos. they are so clear and focused.
I hope you are well and still have time for your beloved bike.
best wishes
Alan
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Hi George
Just having a rummage around the web and found your feed.
It is really good to see your work, as we have said before it's a shame you can't bottle it and pass it on.
Apart from the wonderful machining, (it always fascinates me how different people set up a job to machine)
You must be congratulated on the quality of your photos. they are so clear and focused.
I hope you are well and still have time for your beloved bike.
best wishes
Alan
Hi Alan,
Thanks for the kind words, machining and building engines is quite a passion but I am in awe at the results you and others produce in hull building and your particular skill with sheet meta.
Yes still managing to get out on the bike although not as much as I wouldlike due to the poor weather.
Quite a few members have commented on the quality of the pics but I assure you it's not thro' my expertise as a photographer.
My camera is a small digital FUJI that has a focal length of 12" for close ups and the normal with a zoom adjustment and all that I do is point the thing and " CLICK"
As to the machining I just love "BUTCHERING " metal and when the project is finished it gives me the greatest thrill when it kicks into life at the first admission of air and then tha final test of steam.
Take care
George.
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George, we have so much in common.
I love "butchering" but hate wood!
you can't weld it when you make a cock up !
cheers
Alan
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Hi George, just touching base after a break. Team JCB did the Etape Eryri on Sunday. 48 miles. Much improved on last year. Got loads of personal records and managed the Drws y Coed and Pen y Pass (Snowdon) climbs but had to push up Ceunant (stupid) climb. One very bad accident to one participant overcooked a bend on Drws y Coed decent and collided with a car head on. Now in Stoke trauma centre. Not looking good. The team is losing two members as my daughter and son-in-law are emigrating to Australia beginning of August. Next sportif is Tour de Môn Bach in August. Hope to blitz that one.
Keep the joints moving.
Kindest regards
Jerry.
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Hi Guys,
Returning to this thread at the start I didn't explain how the cross head guides were bored as the set of castings that I bought already had the bores done.
I have always considered that this boring job had to be the most difficult of the whole machining process and now that I am in the possesion of another set of SCORE castings and these bores were still not machined I decided to have a go at machining them as I had never done this before.
I knew that the best way was to bore them with a boring bar between centres but as I was a bit apprehensive I had a good read at a book " Machining in the Lathe " by Sparrey.
I made a boring bar with a cutting tool ground up from a 3/16" dia small centering drill and mounted in a 7/16" round bar.
I then had to take off the top tool post and find the distance from the lathe centre and the top of the cross slide, this I did by mounting a 3/4" dia bar in the chuck and measured from the top of the bar to the cross slide and subtracted 1/2 the dia to get the centre to top which turned out to be 2.75".
I knew the dimension from the bore centres to the underside of the casting was and the dimension of the box bed that it was mounted on and the difference was .876".
I then had to make up a mount to this dimension for bolting to the cross slide.
This was made using a piece of 4mm black plate and Ali slips.
Here are a few pics of the final set up and I shall describe how I found the exact centres next post.
George.
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Hi George
Nice job, the saying where there's a will there is a way springs to mind.
Is the tool in the shaft adjustable to get the correct diameter or do make the pistons to suite?
It must be a good feeling to know you have bone all the machining.
Thank you for sharing this with us
Alan
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I wrote the reply above on my Mobil
You would think in day and age it would know the difference between a b and d !!
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Hi Allen.
No the tool has to be set by the following.
Dia of the bar was .470" dia, it had to be as the cast hole was quite small and I wanted to finnish with a .625" dia hole.
Measuring over the tool tip and the O/D of the bar was .540" , so if you take away half of the bar dia it gives .305" which will give me a bore of .610".
This allows me to use a .625" hand reamer mounted in the 3-jaw and as hand reamers are smaller at the tip I was able to ream straight thro' the casting.
The tool is held in with a socket grub screw and if slackened of the tool can be tapped thro' to give a different bore cut and then tightened up for boring.
Not very technical but it worked.
George.
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Nice going George, just a wee tip. I stamp 1/2 the dia on the boring bar it just saves my fuddled (addled) brain from forgetting
I will take a pic of my boring tool so you can see the mods
cheers
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Hi George nice work I had an old south bend lathe and always wished I had those t slots on the cross slide
Cheers
John
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To make the jig for holding the castings I had a centre to top slide dimension of .874", so after taking the 4mm ( .161" ) plate I was left with .713" to make up.
I had a length of Ali bar 2" wide x 5/8" thk , I cut of 6" of the bar and then cut it down the middle with a haksaw to give me 2- pieces of Ali to make the slips from.
I wanted to finnish up with the jig about .050" lowere than the lathe centre to allow me to pack it up to match the lathe centre, I started to mill the Ali but I was not having much success as the cutter kept clogging up even using W.D. 40 as a lubricant so they were mounted in the 4- jaw and machined to size.
The 4mm steel plate has 4- holes drilled to match the "T" slots and the slips have matching holes to go down thro" the Ali into 4- "T" nuts in the slides.
When it was all bolted up it was a very solid base to which the casting was to be bolted thro' the lugs with 6-B.A. bolts into tapped holes in the 4 mm plate.
I now had to get the exact centres of the cast holes in the trunk guide, with a 1/2" round rough file I cleaned out one hole to smooth the sand cast holes and fitted a brass plug turned up to a push fit with the centre marked on.
The casting and the mounting plate were now all boltted up and with a centre finder in the chuck I packet up the casting with shim brass to get the centres within about .005 0f the chuck centre.
When I was satisfied that all was well I ran a D.T.I. across the face of the flanges that I had already filed to a good finnish to square the job to the cenre line of travel to the lathe.
All that remained was to set up the boring bar and as a last proceedure tightened up the Gib strips in the cross slid to prevent movement.
Now was the big question , would it all work, started up the lathe , engaged the Auto feed and stood well back, to my great delight the tool started cutting away with no trouble so on the same tool setting I gave it 3- passes and then removed the tool. my 5/8" reamer being hand held the stem was parallelI fitted it into the 3- jaw and at my slowest speed reamed out the hole, it was bang on 5/8" bore, so all that was required was to slacken the Gibs , wind the cross slide across by the drawing centre dimension, lock up the gibs and repeat the process
You can imagine how pleased I was at the result, having never attempted such a machining process before and for it to turn out as it was I was "well pleased"
Just a few pics to let you see how it was all set up.
Thanks for looking in and I hope that it will be off help to anybody who has never done this before, if I can do it so can you..
George.
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OOPS, forgot to post some pics.
George.