Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => Other Technical Questions... => Topic started by: Dan.Lord on November 15, 2015, 10:38:41 pm
-
Hi all, I'm thinking ahead of my next build, I really fancy the Billings Nordkap fishing trawler, but I've never attempted a plank on frame hull build before. I see there is a jig available from billings would I be wise investing in one of these , or are they not really necessary {:-{ Plus is there a how to guide on here any where ? I've trawled ( forgive the pun ) through, but can't seem to find one :((
Any help as always greatly appreciated. Cheers Dan.
-
I Have the billing boats building slip BB297
(https://www.wonderlandmodels.com/media/managed/large/b397.jpg)
Its a nice bit of kit but pricy for what it is and I didn't find it that easy to use
-
Thanks for the info, not sure whether to go for one or try without {:-{
-
Hi Dan, I built the Nordkap many many years ago, it was my first plank on frame model. I didn't use a jig, and the hull came out perfecly symetrical. I checked at every stage that the frames were square to the keel and that the keel was strait.
I remember it as a fun build, and quite easy. My only advice is to take your time, and to fit the planks in pairs, one on each side of course. Check constantly, and try and match the plank pairs for 'bendyness'.
One tip, when built, waterproof any areas that will be sealed or dificult to get at before fitting the deck.
I use old varnish, but resin or even paint will do.
Don't miss the underside of the deck before fitting it.
Chas
-
Thanks for the docs Doug ,much appreciated :-)) Chas thanks for the advice, just saved me 50 quid :-)) nice one %% I'm looking forward to my 1st planked hull :-) cheers Dan.
-
The norm seems to be using a building board on which the frames are fitted and the keel fitted into them to form a toast rack that you can then handle/ move and plank your frame with confidence. I have seen melomine shelves used as building boards with the blocks holding the frames PVA glued on and then cracked off once the hull has been planked.
If you haven't already, I would look at threads such as Paul Swainson's Illustrious 87 and search for plank on frame in the search bar above top right.
-
When I built my Nordkap, which was also my first attempt at POF construction, I held the keel in my Workmate while the frames were attached. I then made a jig to hold the hull firmly while I did the planking, as shown in the photos. I was most impressed with the kit, even though it was originally intended as a static model, and I had to make modifications so I could fit the motor, radio and running gear. Before I fitted the deck I did flotation tests to decide how much ballast was needed, and where, then fixed the ballast permanently inside the hull using fibreglass resin. I was so encouraged by my efforts that I have since made scratch built models using the POF technique.
Peter.
-
Thanks for the info chaps, great ideas all :-)) Peter your Nordkap looks fantastic, hope mine turns out half as good :embarrassed: I've been wanting to try this method for a while, so I hope it goes ok :embarrassed: Got to finish the Bluebell first though , so better get a move on !!!!
-
Good luck with the build Dan, we look forward to photos.
Peter.
-
Peter,
When You build Your Nordkap, how did you mate the planks to the Bow Iron (front of keel) (stem)??
Did You doing a bearding line recess on the stem, or just mate up to?
Any in progress photos of planking near the bow?
Thank You.
-
Hi Dan, my first ever attempt at building a boat was POF without a building board. The deck was curved (intentionally) and it turned out well. See 'Lena my first boat build'
My tips would be (some already mentioned) make sure you seal all the hard to reach parts inside the hull whilst building as once you start to get near the deck level some of the lower areas are hard to get to and could get missed. Do the underside of the deck before fitting it (Well remembered Chas :-)) )
Don't be over critical about small gaps between planks as these can be filled and sanded before you resin the hull. My first attempt was with pine planks of slightly varying thicknesses of which some cracked and had quite a few gaps. But after filling sanding and paint I think you'll agree it turned out OK for a first build.
Go for it.... Good luck. U2
-
hi ya there Dan
have a look at the Masterclass build under Cervia tug build - that is plank on frame, similar to what you are planning on doing.
With regard to a kit - plank on frame - I do know that Billings tend to build into their construction method a way of holding the frames and the keel, plus the deck all at the correct place. This is so that the frames are 90 degrees to the keel and at the correct angle to the deck. If the joints are cut out correctly on the frames, deck and keel so that there is just a nice push-fit (no sloppiness) when assembled it makes a fairly rigid structure to plank upon. The only problems are if there is any distortion or twists in the material that the frames, keel and deck are made from - this can play havoc trying to get everything to square up.
The only real advantage of using a building board or a building jig is that it gives you a solid base - preventing the structure moving around whilst you are planking.
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,7947.0.html
Hope this is of some help.
Aye
John
-
http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/mantua-stripclamp.html (http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/mantua-stripclamp.html)
A little less unwieldy than the work mate or billings building slip.
Nice versatile bit of kit
-
Thanks for all the info chaps :-)) Very much appreciated O0 I've just brought a Nordkap on ebay for £150.00, a good price I think as they seem to be £250-280. Looking forward to having a gander when it arrives :D Yes I'll do a build log, but must finish off HMS Bluebell fist {-)
Thanks once again for all the help Cheers Dan.
-
Thanks for all the info chaps :-)) Very much appreciated O0 I've just brought a Nordkap on ebay for £150.00, a good price I think as they seem to be £250-280. Looking forward to having a gander when it arrives :D Yes I'll do a build log, but must finish off HMS Bluebell fist {-)
Thanks once again for all the help Cheers Dan.
Nice price.... you got a bargain!
-
Rick, thanks for the correct terminology of the various elements of the bow :-) As far as I can remember, (it's 7 years since I built Nordkap) I used a shaped infill piece on the stem to give a greater gluing surface for the planks, which has obviously worked as they're still attached :} I don't have a photo that shows clearly what I did and, as the deck is permanently attached, I can't see inside the bow of the model.
Peter.
-
Hi Peter, you joged my memory there. I did a similar thing at the bow, bits of triangular section at the bow for the planks to rest on. I used araldite to fix them too.
Chas
-
I know this thread is a little old, however I downloaded plans for this and I do not believe they are full scale could someone tell me the length and width of Part 29 the deck. I enlarged my plans up but for some reason if I use the 550 mm it says for the lower keel (enlarged of course to match the scale im doing) it comes out way wrong when it should only be around 50 ish inches it is coming out at 90 ish and the enlargement was taken from the deck in my drawings to be only 44 inches so there is no way there is another 50 inches of keel