Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Navy - Military - Battleships: => Topic started by: firstperkasa on November 20, 2015, 04:50:55 pm
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Hi.
I'm currently building the italeri S100. I ve just got a quote from SHG models for the running gear as supplied for the Dave Abbott build. I will go with 3x 385 motors but I'm not sure on their propshafts and rudders. they look a bit nasty.
Has anyone bulit one using another spec ?
what size propshafts / rudders did you use ?
Mine is really ready for fitting out for RC now. The hull and superstructure are in basic paint but need the detail parts added and painting finishing. The whole of the rear deck is removable with a couple of small mods to the rear of the torpedo tubes. The armoured bridge is fixed.
(http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv40/robs5230/italeri%201%2035%20s100%20schnellboot/SAM_1662_zpswh3gdwtg.jpg) (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/robs5230/media/italeri%201%2035%20s100%20schnellboot/SAM_1662_zpswh3gdwtg.jpg.html)
(http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv40/robs5230/italeri%201%2035%20s100%20schnellboot/SAM_1663_zpssh6wl3jh.jpg) (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/robs5230/media/italeri%201%2035%20s100%20schnellboot/SAM_1663_zpssh6wl3jh.jpg.html)
(http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv40/robs5230/italeri%201%2035%20s100%20schnellboot/SAM_1665_zpsknzt66ub.jpg) (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/robs5230/media/italeri%201%2035%20s100%20schnellboot/SAM_1665_zpsknzt66ub.jpg.html)
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Sorry can't advise on your running gear, I just want to say that it looks a very nice model :-)) :-))
Chris
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If they were OK for Dave Abbott then that would be good enough for me!
Colin
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My preference is for Raboasch maintenance free waterproof shafts, quite expensive but I think worth it, the rudders I usually make my own by laminating styrene over a brass stock. :-))
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Oh no not another cracking looking kit to put on the want list %) I'd go along with SHG, they did me fine on my Bluebell, & in a previous U boat build. Rudders as Joe say's, again I did this on the Bluebell works well :-))
My Nordkaps on it's way, so I'd better start saving for this beast too :} 1 meter long !! that's a fine sized kit indeed O0
Keep posting some piccy's & let us know how you get on with the shafts etc. Nice one :-))
Found this link too
http://www.scale-models.co.uk/threads/italeri-1-35-s100-schnellboot-build-and-r-c-conversion.8172/
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Hi I have sent you a P/M 're above.
Stan.
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for anyone wanting an S100 the italeri kit is great. The fine detail parts need care as they are prone to damaging when putting sprues down on one another. Other than that its a real pleasure to build. I'm in no hurry though.
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Oh no not another cracking looking kit to put on the want list %) I'd go along with SHG, they did me fine on my Bluebell, & in a previous U boat build. Rudders as Joe say's, again I did this on the Bluebell works well :-))
My Nordkaps on it's way, so I'd better start saving for this beast too :} 1 meter long !! that's a fine sized kit indeed O0
Keep posting some piccy's & let us know how you get on with the shafts etc. Nice one :-))
Found this link too
http://www.scale-models.co.uk/threads/italeri-1-35-s100-schnellboot-build-and-r-c-conversion.8172/
Thank you for the link much appreciated, :-)) :-)) got one in the treasure trove.
Yes please with the pics of running gear etc.
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Here's a link to how I did mine:
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,26290.msg257881.html#msg257881
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making progress but slowly. all the running gear is now on order. shafts, props, couplings from shg as per the dave abbott build. 3x 385 mfa 5 pole motors, and an mtroniks tio marine 30 esc. just have to wait till all the parts come now. shg are real busy at the minute so it wont be till bext week for the majority of it.
the rudders i'm still mulling over but the linkage will be like that on stan's elco.
batteries ?? dunno yet but thats a way off yet - probably LiPo. the esc is lipo friendly.
trying to stop myself adding detail parts at the minute but done a little more painting.
(http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv40/robs5230/italeri%201%2035%20s100%20schnellboot/SAM_1674_zps38lljfsm.jpg) (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/robs5230/media/italeri%201%2035%20s100%20schnellboot/SAM_1674_zps38lljfsm.jpg.html)
(http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv40/robs5230/italeri%201%2035%20s100%20schnellboot/SAM_1676_zpsvardelrl.jpg) (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/robs5230/media/italeri%201%2035%20s100%20schnellboot/SAM_1676_zpsvardelrl.jpg.html)
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After a bit of a layoff (and now armed with a couple of goodies from the xmas stocking) I'm now back on with this again. Finally bit the bullet and made the cutouts and did the drilling for the shafts.. Not a happy bunny really, the shafts as supplied by SHG all appear to be too short. Now awaiting a response from SHG. I've had to go with the kit angles as the 2 outer shafts run through fairings so there's no mistake with the angles. I reckon each shaft needs another inch in length. Has anyone else come across this ? Thanks
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You look at this thread at MB on the subject http://www.modelboats.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=27016
Did you get any photod of how the SHG set is installed when you bought the bits?
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You look at this thread at MB on the subject http://www.modelboats.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=27016 (http://www.modelboats.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=27016)
Did you get any photod of how the SHG set is installed when you bought the bits?
cheers . I'm on model boats and have read that.
Yes photos were supplied on a4 copy but the problem is the angle of the shafts. I can raise the centre one slightly to give clearance for the coupling but the outer shafts are very close to the bottom of the hull. no chance of fitting the couplings SHG supplied. The angle is dictated by the fairings the shafts run through. i specified enclosed shafts with a longer tube to go straight from the fairings and into the A frames. I think they got the length wrong.
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cheers . I'm on model boats and have read that.
Yes photos were supplied on a4 copy but the problem is the angle of the shafts. I can raise the centre one slightly to give clearance for the coupling but the outer shafts are very close to the bottom of the hull. no chance of fitting the couplings SHG supplied. The angle is dictated by the fairings the shafts run through. i specified enclosed shafts with a longer tube to go straight from the fairings and into the A frames. I think they got the length wrong.
Reading the Model boats link it seems that Dave Abbott didn't follow the shaft rake as you have, they, his shafts are at a steeper rake, see below
"Just to update, I spoke to the good folks at SHG today at the Weymouth show and all is explained. The Dave Abbott design adapts the S-Boote full scale layout by dispensing with most of the shaft fairings (parts 12 and 13D) and, by putting a steeper pitch on the shaft, a shorter shaft can be used allowing the motors further aft and the battery pack nearer the proper centre of gravity. As I am already committed to the full scale layout because I cut out holes in the main hull they will replace the supplied shafts with longer ones - once I have worked out what that length should be!"
If that is so then the SHG stuff needs changing as above.
Let us know how you get on.
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Reading the Model boats link it seems that Dave Abbott didn't follow the shaft rake as you have, they, his shafts are at a steeper rake, see below
"Just to update, I spoke to the good folks at SHG today at the Weymouth show and all is explained. The Dave Abbott design adapts the S-Boote full scale layout by dispensing with most of the shaft fairings (parts 12 and 13D) and, by putting a steeper pitch on the shaft, a shorter shaft can be used allowing the motors further aft and the battery pack nearer the proper centre of gravity. As I am already committed to the full scale layout because I cut out holes in the main hull they will replace the supplied shafts with longer ones - once I have worked out what that length should be!"
If that is so then the SHG stuff needs changing as above.
Let us know how you get on.
Thanks very much for that info. I knew the shaft length was flawed following the scale angle. SHG had made no mention of this so I will approach them for new shafts. ATB Rob
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Happy days. Just spoken to SHG and they have offered to exchange the shafts.
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Good news and thumbs up to SHG :-)) :-))
Let us know the lengths, post Pic, as others have the same kit for conversion. O0 O0
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Good news and thumbs up to SHG :-)) :-))
Let us know the lengths, post Pic, as others have the same kit for conversion. O0 O0
I've had a rethink on this and I'm going with 1 motor on the centre shaft. As I had already fitted the fairings, I dont really now want to start hacking away to change the shaft angle on the outer shafts. Longer shafts would cause more problems than its worth and would push the motors too far forward as the angle is so shallow.
Best advice I can give anyone building this kit is to either leave out the fairings as Dave Abbot did or fit the shafts at a suitable angle and try to assemble the fairings around them as best you can.
i will be leaving the 2 outer shafts fitted just as dummys for display and removing the props for the water.
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Here is a few pictures of my set up, by extending the shaft sufficientlly I managed to keep the angle fairly shallow.
It worked really well in trials and very quiet unfortunatley i dropped the superstructure and may buy a new kit and re-do all the fiddly bits again. >:-o
Rich
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You could check out my Italeri S-100 build on here.
Just my slant on how it could be done!
Gregg
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This was my way of resolving the rudder problem.
Cheap brass/metal shop bought, cut down to match the scale rudders, bulked out with car body filler and carved to shape.
Motors made up in a removable module.
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I also set up the lurssen Effekt system on the outer rudders.
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Here is a few pictures of my set up, by extending the shaft sufficientlly I managed to keep the angle fairly shallow.
It worked really well in trials and very quiet unfortunatley i dropped the superstructure and may buy a new kit and re-do all the fiddly bits again. >:-o
Rich
Nonsense. Contact Italeri customer service and see if you can purchase the relevant sprues or parts to rebuild the superstructure. I've done the same with Revell, Tamiya and Lindberg kits. Revell and Lindberg were at no charge to me.
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Italeri state that this kit is 'Out Of Production' and has been for a long time.
What part of the superstructure do you need.
I have another semi built kit I am going to convert to an earlier version, so not using all of the super/cabin parts.
If you can post a photo to give me an idea I may be able to help!
Gregg
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Nonsense x2. :P
A kit I was ordering parts for, the Tamiya 1/350 Missouri, is listed as out of production but they were still able to get parts sprues from Japan, probably on a limited run basis just to have spare parts for customers.
Maybe Italeri is the same way? Only an inquiry will reveal the answer.