Model Boat Mayhem
Mess Deck: General Section => Model Boating => Topic started by: dave parker on January 06, 2016, 01:13:03 pm
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So, as can be seen on my previous post I have finally gotten my garage to a point where I can work and I have decided upon my first boats....
Originally I was going to get the Assurance Class Tug from Model Slipway but decided I had better start small (and cheaper), with a view to making a better Tug once I gain some experience.
Therefor, my order of builds are going to be....
1 Vosper Corvette from Model Marine International October 2009.
http://gb.trapletshop.com/vosper-corvette (http://gb.trapletshop.com/vosper-corvette)
2 Pilot Boat from Model Marine International January 2011.
http://gb.trapletshop.com/copy-of-pilot-boat (http://gb.trapletshop.com/copy-of-pilot-boat)
3 Assurance Class Tug from Model Slipway
http://www.modelslipway.com/ (http://www.modelslipway.com/)
I also feel the urge to build a Springer Tug but ideally would like instructions/plans...
I feel that this plan will let me in gently with some easy-ish woodwork and fabrication, right through to more complicated details and opportunity to learn how to solder, and more complicated electronics etc.
what do you all think? Good plan?
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Do what you feel you can build, by all means start off with a simple build and gain experience then progress. Or you can jump straight in the deep end, like me!!!!!!!!!
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The Springer will be fun and quick - maybe first?
Dave
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Speaking as somebody who built his first model boat less than six months ago, I'd suggest building yourself a Springer first. It's a straighforward build that gives you good practice at all kinds of useful doings, you get to meddle with a motor, servo, ESC and so forth, and there's loads of handy hints on here.
Nothing about it's critical, it's a quick build, it's relatively cheap to make and best of all it's enormous fun to sail :-)
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The negative for me for the Springer is that I would have to size and workout the electronics ie which props/tube, which speed controller, which motor etc
The other choices have that specified or recommended for me so I can be confident I am fitting the right items
If someone could point me towards a plan with recommended ancillaries that would be great!!!!
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The negative for me for the Springer is that I would have to size and workout the electronics ie which props/tube, which speed controller, which motor etc
The other choices have that specified or recommended for me so I can be confident I am fitting the right items
Dave, if you can wade through the first half dozen pages of this thread (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,52413.0.html) you'll see that I felt exactly the same way just four months ago, but I ended up with a first-ever model boat that looks halfway-decent and sails very well indeed.
FWIW, mine has this (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281483657743?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT) motor in it driving a 40mm 3-blade prop via one of these (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201256873682?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648&var=500458920486&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT) propshafts. Battery's a 7.4v LiPo and the ESC is an Mtroniks Tio Marine 15.
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My first model boat build was a Model Slipway Envoy tug which is more or less the same as your Assurance class choice.
I found it a very easy build really as pretty much everything you need is in the kit, good build instructions and a fibreglass hull so no planking or cutting of frames before you can begin. Only extras you need are electronics and a motor but plenty been built before so easy to find what works. I used the model slipway suggested motor and it runs great.
It may look a complicated kit but it's very well made and very satisfying to build.
Craig.
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/P1010019-1.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/P1010019-1.jpg.html)
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Norman, have read your thread right through, it was an inspiration and I now feel maybe a springer will be first build....simple, and can have so many variances.... :-))
Craggle, your boat looks amazing, if I can get my slipway build anywhere near that standard I will be very pleased
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Springers are built like this...
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=12453789&postcount=3
Original Seattle club plans are here:
http://www.shipmodelers.com/technical-library.html
Layout plans by Ken Riley:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=16889789&postcount=8282
Just keep in mind, Left side, right side, front, back, bottom, and you are practically done. :-))
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I was going to reccomend Norman's thread but he has got there and helped first! He has even built one for his wife now, so maybe if you are married, your wife might like one?
Regards kits, though they are a great way to start a project that requires no shopping list (and there is a huge variety of them available), I think learning the basics on a simple model like a Springer or Motorflote provides you with the stepping stone to something more adventurous.
Also learning to read and interpret plans of such a vessel as a Springer will be of anormous help in the future, wether you kit or scratch build.
Regarding soldering, cleanliness is the key.
I look forward to seeing your first build log :-))
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Well all I can say is thankyou
This forum is fantastic :-))
If I ever doubted if model boating is for me, iam now 100% sure
I have been getting giddy thinking about it O0
I have decided my first build WILL be a springer, and I cannot wait
When I try to work out where to get my ply from, what exactly should I be looking for? 6mm? thinner? marine ply or not?
Does it have to have a certain number of "plys" ?
Thanks in advance!
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I recomend Norman's build log as he mentions 6mm ply bought from a reputable timber yard as opposed to a DIY centre, and I assume he used 3mm for the curved belly. Have a good read of his and other member's topics concerning Springers and I reckon you will be 'genned' up in an evening.
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Ref the ply, my limited experience so far has been that ordinary 6mm ply from a timber yard is certainly usable for the sides and ends of a Springer hull, but it's a bit rough and ready compared to the stuff from the local model shop. It is half the price or less per square foot, though!
The bottoms of mine are 1/16" ply from the model shop, but for The Lady Wife's mini-Springer and the full-size one on the bench now, the sides and ends are 3mm LitePly. And tbh the main reason they're LitePly is that LitePly is the only stuff in the local shop in 2ft x 1ft sheets that isn't warped!
I do get a feeling that mine are built a bit lighter than many, but as we're not going to be playing water dodgems with ours (at least not intentionally) I simply make sure that the sides/bottom joins are all reinforced with a continuous fillet of epoxy. Personally, I wouldn't want to be using anything thicker than 1/16th for the bottom, 'cos it's a doddle to use providing you cut it the right way round.
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Excellent, will go out mooching this weekend to see what I can find!!!!
PS yes I am married but it appears this is my hobby only %)
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I bet that is what Norman thought to begin with!
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I bet that is what Norman thought to begin with!
Oh, didn't I just ...
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This might be a daft question, and I reckon I know the answer but...
I have been looking on line over a brew, at 6mm plywood.
There is softwood, hardwood and marine ply available at different places.
What's difference and which am I looking for? :embarrassed:
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I'm sure the answer will be provided shortly by someone better able than me to do so, but AFAIC what matters more is what your local timber yard has got in 6mm and whether or not they're prepared to flog you less than a full sheet at a price per sq ft that isn't outrageous. I still remember getting to the checkout of the local Homebase last year with a 3ft x 2ft sheet of really awful 6mm ply and being astonished to find that they had the cheek to want nigh on £20 for it!
The bloke who ended up putting it back on the rack reckoned that's why their ply isn't priced on the shelf edge ...
PS If it helps you to know, a 2ft x 1ft sheet of very good quality 6mm ply is around £6 in the local model shop, but unfortunately they've only got the warped ones left until new stock comes in.
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I build mine from 3mm plywood from B&Q stores. They supply a sheet around 4 x 3 for around £16 and will do up to 10 or more cuts for free.
You have to go through the stock to find the best clean surface suitable for model making. Don't forget to check 'Both' sides as the back can be not as good. You will find a good one amongst the batch eventually. Choose the widest part of the Springer for them to cut it for you with nice straight edges.
I've found 3mm is quite strong enough when glued into shape and any bigger would be a waste of time. It is easy to bend with a hot air gun and clamp overnight. You should be able to stand on it when built, or throw it into the lake, like our member 'UMI'. ok2
All the best,
ken
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That's great, I think it will be a case of using what I have access to.... O0
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I use a company called SLEC, all sorts of wood for the modeller, prices are reasonable and so far not had a bad piece from them.
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Do you advocate 3mm for the sides, bow and stern, Ken?
Or for deck and curvy bottom ?
I used 6 mm for the sides and ends.
Local timber merchants have offcut bins at greatly reduced prices
Even our BnQ have an offcut bin with useable sizes for about 20 to 50 p a throw.
Ned
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How about these, would they be suitable?
http://www.slecuk.com/balsa-wood/3.2mm-x-300-x-1525mm-Birch-Ply-Cross-Grain-PWS301.html#SID=233
http://www.slecuk.com/balsa-wood/6.0mm-300-x-1525mm-Birch-Ply-Cross-Grain-PWS601.html#SID=233
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Should be good and you'll have plenty left over, big plus, cheap as chips.
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Fantastic
Worth doing a larger order so only pay postage once
I am planning a good few builds, and i dare say will make some mistakes so spare is good!!!
Thanks bfgstew
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Get some other bits and pieces while your at it, always good to have a good stock on the shelf and only pay postage once!!!!
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Just noticed they do clear Perspex for windows %% O0 :o
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You're getting the hang of it.............just be careful the missus don't find out.......... <*< <*< <*< <*<
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6mm ply is way too thick for a model boat, thin birch ply will give you all the strength you need.
I built a full size dinghy from 6mm marine ply, and its plenty strong enough! The ply is guaranteed for 15 years.
For info, marine ply is usually resin bonded and guaranteed to last a number of years ' depends on the specification.
WBF ply, is Water and Boil Proof,..self explanatory, but wont last as long as a good marine ply.
Cheap ply will splinter and fall apart easily and quickly, and is very hard to get a good finish with.
You can probably guess which is the most expensive!
Ian
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Do you advocate 3mm for the sides, bow and stern, Ken?
Or for deck and curvy bottom ?
I used 6 mm for the sides and ends.
Local timber merchants have offcut bins at greatly reduced prices
Even our BnQ have an offcut bin with useable sizes for about 20 to 50 p a throw.
Ned
Use just the 3mm to build the Springer with. It'll be tough enough to stand on. No point in all the excess weight of larger timber.
Hope this helps
ken
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So marine, then wbf then normal... In that order?!?!?
Yes I really do need it explaining to be sure.... O0
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If you've got the equipment to cut it up, you can sometimes find the backs of old wardrobes, the draw bases from old furniture can supply some reasonable, usable materials.
Call down at your local charity shops that sell old furniture and ask if you can have a rummage in their skips (for a donation of course!) some of the Swedish furniture store products had some nice ply backs too.
More modern products use hardboard and MDF.....not so good for boats.
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Gentleman
With regards to a springer, can I have some advice with regard to batteries and power?
I am intending on using SLA battery/batteries, so...
- 6v or 12v
- one or two batteries (am thinking about stability, so even if only "using" one battery, I will need a second on the other side of boat to maintain stability?
After some research I am thinking 2 x 6v 4Ah batteries wired in parallel to give 6v 8Ah........
any advice or pics you can attach would be great!!!
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I use a12 volt lead acid battery at 7.5 A/hr.
If you lay it down sideways across the bottom of the hull whilst doing a float test in the bath, you will be able to balance the craft. You can then mark it's position and make a small box frame to drop fit it in.
Hope this helps
ken
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Thanks Kenny :-))
I assume you have it mounted centrally though for stability???
Any pics???
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hi Dave,
I have a look tomorrow. The steering servo and receiver have to be in place before you balance with the battery, but it really is a piece of cake. Leave room dead centre front to back. I still use mine for rescue duties as they are trouble free craft.
Cheers
ken