Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => Painting, Finishing and Care. => Topic started by: chris1 on October 26, 2016, 04:59:35 pm
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Hi all. I'm building an Amati Endeavour and the deckhouses are built of thin liteply, which as you know is extremely light in colour, just off white almost. The real thing had mahogany wheelhouses on a pine deck. I've painted the deck with cellulose dope instead of varnish, to keep the colour as light as possible, but I'm totally lost as to what to use on the deckhouses to get a shiny glossy mahogany colour. Any ideas please?
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Hi Chris - I would use a wood stain of the appropriate colour, followed by varnish. Works for me.
Regards,
Ray.
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Of course! thank you so much Ray. when i figure out how to put pics up here, i'll post an update. thanks again
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One other thing Chris, before you stain the actual model bits - try the stain / varnish out on a piece of scrap lite ply first, just to be sure the result is what you're after. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Try the stain on scrap liteply using one coat
then two or more until you have the shade you want.
I have found with a few coats of stain to get the right
shade, no varnish is needed as the layers of stain
take on a satin sheen.
Ned
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hi there, have a check on the master class build for Boatmadman's build of the trawler - is this the effect you are trying to get - if so get in touch with boatman he will probably explain how he did it.
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,1951.msg46571.html#msg46571
john
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If the top surface of the liteply has a 'watermark' type grain pattern this will still show through the stain and look wrong. You might be better off using a painting technique. Do a search on simulating woodgrain on models and you come up with these examples, there are a lot of online references so take your pick.
http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2003/03/stuff_eng_tech_wood_grain.htm
http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com/page10.html
Colin
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Thank you gents. the model is 1/80 scale and the parts are really small, so the wood grain effect does not have to be perfect, although i want the right overall look. i'll get some woodstain tomorrow and start experimenting on scrap before committing to the model.
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I wanted to hide a servo and mount it in an open deck area...so removed the mountings and added M3 hex tapping's to the sides then encased the new box in 4x1 built up pre stained planking
Using polyurethane thinned approx. 1:10 with mineral turpentine looked OK with the first coat, however with the 2nd & 3rd coat, the build up became unrealistically thick
My next plan is to use a combination of Australian Feast Watson products.......Proof Tint stain + soaking in Tongue Oil + Carnauba Wax...... I have trialled this process and plan to water proof paddle wheel hardwood blades which will be [occasionally] immersed in water without any other form of protection
The Tongue Oil is an amazingly old Chinese wood preservative liquid [fist used in 400BC] extracted from Tongue Tree nuts O0....the process makes very interesting reading :o
extract from the Wiki people........"During the Song Dynasty, tung oil was used for waterproofing ships"
Derek
https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&ved=0ahUKEwiTi5_yrvnPAhWGnpQKHSvdDcUQFggpMAI&url=https%3A%2F%2Fen.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2FTung_oil&usg=AFQjCNHHbgvbStfbpMB_QXIsm3Ynm4fLdg