Model Boat Mayhem
Mess Deck: General Section => Model Boating => Topic started by: justboatonic on January 25, 2018, 08:40:02 pm
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OK here's the problem. I have a 1/72 scale lynx heli (painted) glued to the floor of the hangar deck by its 3 wheels. I want to remove it from the hangar and position it on the aft flight deck instead. I believe the lynx is glued down with ordinary liquid cement. I can remove the hangar superstructure to get at the lynx and might be able to remove the hangar deck which is also painted but if not still have railings at the hull sides to consider.
Im stuck (pardon the pun!) for methods how to remove the lynx with minimal damage to the wheels and the hangar deck it is glued to. I think a razor saw or dremel cutting disc will destroy the wheels and \ or the deck.
So, anyone any ideas how to unstick the wheels from the deck with minimal damage? It's been glued down for at least 6 years! TIA.
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If it’s liquid poly
What about liquid plastic cement and a scalpel??
The plastic cement should melt the plastic gently as you
Score carefully with the scalpel
Just a guess though....
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If you have a sharp beveled edge chisel and are very careful tapping with a light hammer try putting the ground/beveled side down to the deck at the wheel then gently tap it. It should break free but you will have missing paint where the wheel was glued. Good luck.Hope this helps.
Cheers, Pete
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How about buying some of Accurate Armour's fine saw blades? Here's the link (https://accurate-armour.com/model-supplies/modelmaking-tools) and I suggest the 0.25mm ones, MT012. I have used the slightly thicker ones to good effect. Thanks to Canterbury Coxswain over on the Lifeboat section for alerting me to these useful tools.
With a bit of luck you will only lose a tiny bit off the bottom of each wheel. You can pretend they are a bit low on tyre pressure!
Greg
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Who made the kit? If it is an Airfix kit you should get a better result carefully cutting between the deck and wheels with a slight wiggle to exert a lever action which should pop the join once part way through.
If the kit is Italeri or a east european manufacturer then their plastic is often brittle due to being party recycled plastic, so gentle sawing is advisable. Which do you want least damaged? If the deck, then a fine saw like Greg suggested, which are etched I beleive will cut the thinnest amount off the wheels, which when cleaned up and repainted will give a realistic flattened tyre bottom effect.
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My plan would be reply 1 then 4.
Namely, try and weaken the joint by applying more glue and gently pull it apart whilst applying glue, if unsuccessful very gingerly cut if off flush with the deck and make good the wheels.
Xacto, plus others, have fine flexible saw blades that will bend allowing you to cut flush under the wheels along the deck. :-))
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Repeated applications of drops of acetone done with a paintbrush around the wheel. This will soften the bond over a period of maybe 5 minutes allowing you to slide a scalpel under to break the joint completely.
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There is a product for unbonding superglue the name of it escapes me...ive used it to debond cyno glues and other glues as well....worth it's weight in gold believe you me
Dave
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How about this superglue debonder - https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p81913?table=no (https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p81913?table=no)
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Yes, the lynx is an Airfix kit (I believe) and no, it isnt super glued down. Thanks for the suggestions, Im going to try the additional drops of glue and scalpel method.
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There is a product for unbonding superglue the name of it escapes me...ive used it to debond cyno glues and other glues as well....worth it's weight in gold believe you me
Dave
The one I use is called nail varnish remover.
Don't tell the wife.
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There is a simple answer. A wire, such as a guitar string or cheese wire. Run it along the join, a back and forth motion, friction localises the heat and you are through in no time, with very little damage.
Chas
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Yes that was my thought but using fishing line as that is what they use for debadging cars.
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If it is a plastic kit then just drop it on a hard floor and it will immediately separate into its individual pieces. ok2
Colin
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We all learn by trial and error i guess :embarrassed:
I used a art protective spray......maybe it was polycote clear laquer or similar ( for spraying on paintings or chalks etc )
Well it reacted quite badly with some superglued pieces and re activated the glue to my alarm, also made some permanent marker markings puddle and run aswell
:-))