Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Navy - Military - Battleships: => Topic started by: rem2007 on September 21, 2007, 10:09:57 pm
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Hi Again, with kind permission from the Wierdroom, I am starting a new build thread of an old classic. I am new again to modelling and attempting this as my second buid in progress to be installed with RC gear. So, if any of you down-trodden crusty POs want to lend this young(sic) OD who is lost down in the engineering spaces, some of your wisdom and thoughts it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks to Voyager and Dicky for the wierdroom ok. So, whether its advise on painting methods or rc gear and installation feel free to drop in.
I am also doing the Bismarck build which is going along quite well, but occupying too much space on the sideboard.
The invitation goes out to all newbie ods like myself, we all have to learn somewhere.
now if I can just sort out this resizer program.....doh
cheers
robert
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oh....almost forgot the dog does not bite
robert
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sorted
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Robert this might be of help to you.
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=5226.0
O0
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Here are some photos of two of the Snowberry kits, converted to RC by members of our club, to help inspire you ;)
Happy building,
Peter.
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Just had a thought, for realism why don't you fit a 6v Graupner smoke unit O0 I fitted one of these to an old Bismark model i made some time ago, uses very little power consumption from the battery. If your interested then let me know and i'll PM you the place i get mine from, He sells them for £9.60 + P+P which is by far the cheapest i've seen them for sale.
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And a couple of mine to the pot :)
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And a couple of mine O0
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Metcalf Mouldings do a GRP hull, may be worth considering for a working model;
http://business.virgin.net/metcalf.mouldings/catalogue.htm
See under HULS; OTHER HULLS.
Also take a long while to browse here;
http://www.cbrnp.com/RNP/Flower/contents.htm
A wealth of info on that site.
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O0cheers for all the information and links that you have provided. i believe i have found my sea leg and can proceed withh a fair amount of knowledge as to how dep the water is. have to seal the hull and give her a float test this weekend, might give the dog a bath while im at it.
thanks again gents, will no doubt talk again soon
robert
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Hi There Robert
If you are intersted I can supply you with a copy of the article I wrote for marine modelling in 2003 which covers the buliding of my Corvette Acanthus. K01
It might be useful to get you underway so to speak! - There is a picture of it on Mayhem see "site updates" 11 May 2007
If it is any help to you at this stage I can tell you it runs very well on the following set up:
Fleet 40Mhz Radio Gear
FPS 24B 6 volt speed controller (sadly now I think unavailable)
Yuasa 6 volt 4 amp hour gell cell
Electronize 545-12 low revving low drain motor (loads of torque and scale speed with a bit in reservre)
3 bladed 30mm brass prop
The model is ballested deep as you may notice by the picture if you look, but this gives the model some real stability when its needed as they can look quite toy like when they jump about too much in choppy water, do not be afraid to leave freeing ports along the main deck open along with the stern openings for the depth charges this does not create any problems - but ensure you raise the coaming around the aperture that holds the rear superstructure in place, this WILL keep the water out!
Good luck with the project let me know if you would like the article.
Mark
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Well after the successful launch of the RTTL Vosper, I decided it was my nwly acquired skills to use and pulled thebox down off the wardrobe, much to the pleasure of the other half.
I had glue and sealed the hull last fall and much to my chagrin discovered the sealant I had naively used had dried hull. Meaning I was able to completely pull it all out. No worries as I know better now and when I epoxy the propeller shaft in I'll epoxy all the joint seams again.
I have washed all the sprue trees in the tub and primed them with grey primer. Little tips like these were not known to me and its amazing how well paint adheres on primer, doh :D.
So no real photo ops yet and June is a busy month around ours with 3 kids and 3 birthdays, mmmm bbq.
Hopefully will have rc install done by end of June and then will give her some sea trials. O0
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HMS Jonquil
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Thanks Tom,
Any other photos showing interior rc set up and removeable parts would be gratefully appreciated, as I lost some when our old pc crashed. Terrible mess, wires and chips everywhere, had to get the salt and vinegar out :D
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Hi Robert dont know if this will be any help.
With a 6" prop shaft you can put your battery in front of the motor with the ESC, fuse and the Rx fixed to the hull port and starboard.
The servo is fixed near the rudder.
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Hmmm, just wondering if I could get away with it...thanks for those Richard. I'll wait til I get my gear installed Question, on your flower, I take it the foredeck and aft engine room covering are attached to be removed as one piece? If so, do you secure this while sailing her or does it just sit in place by weight?
I'm sure I'll have a few more questions as I go along.
Thanks again.
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The top is a tight fit and it is tied to the hull, mind you it would not take much to fit a magnetic catch or similar. O0
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Sort of lost my train of thought in last post :D. What I meant to say, and I believe Richard picked up on my omission was to just have the engine room casing as the removeable section. Test fitted a 6volt SLA battery and slides through fairly easily. So with some fitting this should be possible, the only discrepency would be in the rigging and on this subject, some flowers I've seen have none or have the foredeck joined to the engine room casing with the rigging complete. Any thoughts on this or should I use some artistic license?
My next question is regards the propeller itself, when I took the kit one with me to a local hobby shop, we sussed it to be 40mm and LH, is this correct and what did the rest of you use?
Sun must be getting to me or the paint fumes from painting the kitchen, finally.
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Rob,
You're almost inspiring me to get my Revell Corvette finished! - Almost :)
Richard. thanks for showing the deck plan of your Corvette - It's helped me with a niggle that's been bugging me for months :)
Regards all,
-Rob
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Didn't we discus this last year and you were in the midst of moving?
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My next question is regards the propeller itself, when I took the kit one with me to a local hobby shop, we sussed it to be 40mm and LH, is this correct and what did the rest of you use?
Sun must be getting to me or the paint fumes from painting the kitchen, finally.
Hi Robert I used a brass propeller exactly the same as the kit one.
I also used the kit rudder bonded to a small bought one.
You might find that if you just have the engine room superstructure removable it might be a bit of a struggle to get all your weight in the right place. Remember to ballast to the waterline. O0
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I used the plastic one in the kit! :o
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Cheapskate ;)
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That's my middle name! O0
Actually I did it as a stopgap until I bought a nice brass one but it worked so well I didn't bother changing it.
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Rudder epoxied together, worked a charm. Hi Martin, waiting on brass propeller, a kit this good deserves a decent propeller.
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Yeah, but mine was scale! ;)
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So whats wrong with mine ? :-\
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I spins the wrong way! ;D
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Now now you two, if you don't behave there will be no pond on Sunday for either of you. :(
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And it always rains on Sunday's when I turn up. :(
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So take an umbrella (I promise not to laugh) :angel:
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I spins the wrong way! ;D
I'll have you know it spins both ways thankyou. >>:-(
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Hi Robert just a thought. I have just changed all my stanchions to brass and the handrails to tinned copper wire as my plastic ones kept getting broken with handling and travelling.
Have you thought about doing yours now during construction as it is easier. O0
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Now there is a good thought. I'll look into it, I've seen the photo etch and resin kits you can get to go on the kit. I'm kinda thinking to leave this one simple, for now, and possibly do another down the road, once I master a few more techniques.
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There are brass etching kits and option s available for the Revell / Matchbox Corvette:
http://www.loyalhannadockyard.com/GLSFCC.htm
http://www.cbrnp.com/RNP/Flower/REVIEWS/GLS_Sirmar/GLS_Sirmar.htm
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Sounds like £10 on 3 packs of stanchions would save me alot of breakage. Do they come with the holes for running wire/rope?
Rudder finished and waiting for propeller and shaft.
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I got my etched brass stanchions from http://www.johnrhaynes.com/ £9.00 for sheet of 200
Tinned copper wire 0.56mm 50g £4.35 from http://wires.co.uk/acatalog/cu_tinned.html
Any queries just ask. O0
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You bet, thanks Richard just getting on the phone to Cornwall Boats for some running gear, their very economical and much closer to me. Warm isn't! O0
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Here's a quick question. What adhesive do people use for bits that have already been painted? As there is loads of painting and assembling in this kit, I going for the painting first and assembling, then touching up, so what have others used to put the bits together? Any advise greatly appreciated. O0
Robert
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Rem
It would be best to remove paint from the contact points of the parts to glue, I used superglue.
For the stansions I use brass rod and fishing line. its easy, cheep looks good and is strong and if ever dammaged easy to repair or replace.
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stantions finished
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Hi Robert the strongest way is to scrape the paint off where the part is to be glued and use Plastic Weld.
Failing that the Plastic weld will work through the paint if you use enough, not to much though or you will melt your plastic.
Dont use super glue as this will stick paint to paint and if you knock the part afterwards it will come off complete with the paint from the bit it was stuck to, O0
If you are gluing metal to plastic use superglue but scrape the paint off first. O0
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Hi Robert the strongest way is to scrape the paint off where the part is to be glued and use Plastic Weld.
I second that. When gluing plastic to plastic, ALWAYS use a solvent like Plastic Weld, having first scraped off any paint in the contact area.
Peter.
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O0Oh yeah, another Mayhem tip works a charm!
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That wasn't sarcasm I hope Robert ? :-\
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That wasn't sarcasm I hope Robert ? :-\
:o, I'm still a tadpole in this business and would not stoop so low as to use sarcasm. Besides, we Canucks are never sarcastic, in fact we dont have much of a sense of humour at all. That's why we invented ice hockey.
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I'll tell you what, customer satisfaction and speed of service for Cornwall Models just went up. I placed an order Sunday evening on-line for my running gear an received it in this morning's post. Great job mates! O0
Hopefully, should have it installed soon and off for some basin trials.
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Well here is the start...I've also sealed all the seems in the hull with Araldite epoxy. Bilge keels fitted as well.
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Prop shaft next?
Show us a picture of your selected running gear. O0
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Any thoughts on oil filler tubes soldered onto prop shafts? Or should I stick with the install the prop shaft and remove if necessary to fill method?
Hang on Martin I have to find the camera again.
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I would advise yes to fitting oiler tube.
You can then regrease the shaft without removing motor.
If you are using a short shaft it will need topping up, so far easier.
Bob
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Robert see PM
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Heres the running gear Martin.
385 motor from Model Motors Direct, (2 for a fiver and wired and suppressed)
7"x4mm prop shaft by graupner
40mm LH brass propeller from Cornwall Boats
Rudder is from kit with small brass rudder epoxied in between he halves.
Going to use a Condor 10/2 ESC from Action
7.2 volt battery pack
BEC wired into system
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After looking at the many different methods of installing the rudder, I chose the big glob of milliput route.
Can't remember where I saw this but you can either wrap cellophane around the rudder shaft, as I've done or use similiar size drill bit. I also smeared some vaseline around the cellophane. Here are a couple shots showing what I did.
The propshaft has not been secured in yet, its just put in place for reference to ensure proper clearance for rotation.
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Thanks Rob,
How well does the Milliput stick to the Hull plastic?
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Robert is your rudder shaft inside a tube or just inside the milliput. Does it finish above the water line ?
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385 motor from Model Motors Direct, (2 for a fiver and wired and suppressed
Dont tell FLJ where you got the motors from!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Stavros
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Hi Stavros
Yeah, I got 2 from them at the Exeter Open day O0, and already with suppression.
Robert
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Robert is your rudder shaft inside a tube or just inside the milliput. Does it finish above the water line ?
Hi Richard,
According to my line of sight it is above the water line and in the milliput which I'll line and pack with grease.
Read somewhere how someone else did this and it worked fine.
Have to get the brain working again, just got back from London where we saw Eric Clapton and The Police.
Great fun.
Robert
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Hmmm think I would have preferred a tube Robert but you never know until you try these things. O0
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Well, it may look a bit messy now, but have to fit the switch on somewhere. Gave her a run around the pool today and discovered the turning radius on a 12' diameter pool is too small. Anyway, no big production video with OST, but all works and moves like a proper ship. On with the building!
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Coming on Robert. If you move your rudder linkage at the rudder end in towards the rudder your rudder should turn more each way. O0
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Whats happening Robert ? :-\
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Yeah, hi again, been busy training for a new powst and rearing our new puppy, I get the late shift and SWMBO gets the early shift.
The first pic is our new addition, mum was a white shepherd and dad was an alaskan malamue, we call him Mahegan, which in the Native Algonquin langauge means Wolf.
The second is the hull painted and foredeck on, gave her a coat of varnish and weather permitting should get to the lake Sunday, well pond really.
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Cute puppy, but be warned mine was cute as well. ::)
Nice paint job on boat (bit clean though) are you going to weather it ? :-\
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Was messingh about with the roman numerals that go down tyhe bow, but decided they looked rubbish and upon referring to the book Canada's Flowers those numerals can't be seen in the photo. Trying to find the green leaf for the funnel.
By the way do you have any tricks for these kit decals, I was planning on the varnish adhering them on once the glue initial set them on. Any comments otherwise appreciated.
Think I need new slippers now! :D
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I am reading this thread with interest I have got the same kit made by 'Matchbox' in the seventies it looks the same as the Tamiya except mine has original cloth flags. A question should I build this kit or is a collectors item that's worth more than buying a Tamiya and building that one?
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Get a hold of Bob Pearson he sells a complete set of decals for Canadian Corvettes .His email address is [email protected] ... He also maintains a webpage dedicated to Corvette modeling at http://www.cbrnp.com/RNP/Flower/contents.htm
Address to the decals preview http://www.cbrnp.com/RNP/Flower/SALES/index.htm
Chris
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Was messingh about with the roman numerals that go down tyhe bow, but decided they looked rubbish and upon referring to the book Canada's Flowers those numerals can't be seen in the photo. Trying to find the green leaf for the funnel.
By the way do you have any tricks for these kit decals, I was planning on the varnish adhering them on once the glue initial set them on. Any comments otherwise appreciated.
Think I need new slippers now! :D
Varnish will fix decals or use Decalfix obtainable from Ontracks
http://www.ontracks.co.uk/index.php?page=search_results&string=decal+fix
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I figured varnish would do the trick, wait til you see the deal I just got I'll pm you later when I ring and confirm tomorrow.
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I am reading this thread with interest I have got the same kit made by 'Matchbox' in the seventies it looks the same as the Tamiya except mine has original cloth flags. A question should I build this kit or is a collectors item that's worth more than buying a Tamiya and building that one?
Didnt know that Tamiya did the Flower Class corvette, Might let some of the more knowledgeable members field that question. My kit was a gift :o
but I'm aware that Matchbox used to put this kit out some years ago. I believe Revell got ther molds from Matchbox, so there are probably quite a few around, up to yourself about the value of the kit now though.
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Tamiya dont do the corvette Robert. ::)
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Get a hold of Bob Pearson he sells a complete set of decals for Canadian Corvettes .His email address is [email protected] ... He also maintains a webpage dedicated to Corvette modeling at http://www.cbrnp.com/RNP/Flower/contents.htm
Address to the decals preview http://www.cbrnp.com/RNP/Flower/SALES/index.htm
Chris
Hi Chris,
I've read that page quite abit, thing is don't want the whole decal sheet from Bob, just the left corner bit with the green maple leafs.
If anyone has those I'd appreciate it, long way to send just for 2 leafs, primarily doing decals per photo from Canada's Flowers.
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Well, must be my Canuckhead heritage, opened my post the other day and received a nice proper decal sheet, from my mate in The Great White North, so at long last I've made some progress and the puppy sleeps thru the night now. Not sure if I'll be cut out for the Grand parent thing, well at least they are going to University, so that will be some time from now.
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Hi Chris,
I've read that page quite abit, thing is don't want the whole decal sheet from Bob, just the left corner bit with the green maple leafs.
If anyone has those I'd appreciate it, long way to send just for 2 leafs, primarily doing decals per photo from Canada's Flowers.
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This may be covering old ground by now, but I'll put my two cents worth in anyway. For settling down decals I've found nothing better than Solvaset. After the decal is placed in the desried loationand most of the water is drawn off through capiliary action by a tissue, use a small paint brush to place the Solvaset over, the decal. Let it work its way under hte decal by capiliry action. Leave to do its job (couple of hours). Then check the decal for any tenting over rivets etc. The tenting will appear as a white spot in the decal. Peirce each spot with a needle or sharp knife point. Introduce a little more Solvaset and the decal will snuggle down. Done with patience you won't see the decal outline. Finsih with your favourite clearcote.
For a maple leaf decal, have you tried the model railway fraternatee (sp)? Canadian National Railways used the maple leaf herald during the fifties. Perhaps there is a decal available there that would work. What size do you need?
John
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Hi John,
The decal problem is solved. The sheet from Canada has the required leaves, I know the ones your on about used by the CNR, as I use to sneak across the railyards when I was a kid back home but they were a different leaf than the one used by the navy in WW2.
Thanks anyway.
Robert
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So whats happening Robert ? :-\
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Its going along quite well. Sorry, we're into football season now and every Sunday seems booked between now and February, should have had 3 girls. Anyway, the weather is co-operating. I've got the fordeck complete and have made good progress on the bridge, but with a new job and kids going to uni, well you know, oh did I mention a puppy as well.
I promise an update this week, oh got the stanchions from John Haynes, nice chap, too bad I live way down here in Devon, don't get to go to all these fun things. Might to a trip to Warwick, just to have a look see.
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Is this the wire you were on about Dicky?
50g 0.56mm Tinned Copper Wire
Ref: TC0560-050
Price: £3.00 [€3.90] (Excluding VAT at 17.5%)
50 gram = approx 22 metres
Quite abit of wire for £3.......
been busy DIYing the new model boat room, finally privacy for me and the puppy.
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As some will have noticed from elsewhere on this forum as a complete begineer I am about to start building my own effort, name to be decided!
There are 42 small clear circular pieces [Part No L4] that need gluing to the hull, excuse what may be a silly question - do I use liqiud poly for this and does that make them watertight?
Thanks.
Roy
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It worked for me. :-))
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Thanks very much.
Roy
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I use a 2 part epoxy which set rather quick 4-6 minutes. But I only did about 5 or 6 each time. Fun kit isn't it, kind of humbling with nigh on 1,000 pieces. Good luck, you should start a build thread and post some pics.
Robert
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I assume that this is done after painting the hull.
Roy
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Hello . This is Snowberry forum build by my friend Tomasz .
http://www.kartonwork.pl/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8656&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
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Can't understand a word they have printed but yet the pictures speak for themselves , nice Link.. :-))
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Hello . This is Snowberry forum build by my friend Tomasz .
http://www.kartonwork.pl/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8656&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
a fantastic build , give your friend my regards and appreciation for sharing his efforts with us.
Robert
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Whats happening Robert ? Nothing since October. {:-{
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I know, and October was when I went back to work full-time...busy, busy. Then Christmas, you know how it is. Still working on my Bismarck, but Santa gave me a new Spectrum DX5e 2.4ghz for Christmas, so as soon as the pond thaws and our lad does not have an away game on Sunday am, I'll be giving Snowberry another trial run on the pond.
Robert
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Whats doing Robert ?
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I'll let you know in abit, just trying to get the little guy to bed....not the dog!