Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Navy - Military - Battleships: => Topic started by: ojays on January 05, 2019, 09:09:27 pm
-
I hit a mental block a few months ago on two of my works in progress.
I spotted an old copy of 'Model Boat' magazine with an article about a Vietnam era
mini aircraft carrier. The plans were by Glynn Guest, renowned model boat builder.
Called an A.T.C.H. Armoured Troop Carrying Helicopter landing pad. It allowed troops &
supplies to be transported nearer to possible landing grounds, It also allowed refuelling and
re-arming of the helicopters without having to return to their main bases. Casualties could also
be retrieved to these mobile bases.
The plans I had seen were very basic 1/48 stand off scale (about 30ft should be ok)
I decided from the start that I wanted rudders instead of the differential steering of the plans.
I also wanted to recess the prop shafts as per the real vessels, little did I know how much internal
space I would lose going this route.
Also I differed from the plans with regard to materials used, I wanted to use just what I had in my stash.
Although the basic structure is all balsa wood, I covered this in plasticard as it is a medium I enjoy
working with, and I had plenty in stock.
This also allowed me to scribe and rivet where appropriate.
Although not historically correct, it does represent a military force that was not really portrayed very
much during the Vietnam conflict.
The Brown Water Navy.
A book I also read about the time I saw the Model Boats article was 'Brown Water Black Beret,' a very interesting
story of some of the history of this small Navy and those who served in it.
This is my take on the A.T.C.H.
Part one is the basic build.
-
Thanks for sharing, we need more threads like this :-) watching very interested O0
-
Part two was to cover everything in plasticard to allow plating and rivets to be scribed where appropriate.
Also fitting of the prop shafts to make sure I had left enough space in the troughs for the propellers.
The balsa superstructure was also cut out and assembled at this time.
-
As unable to post any more on the previous post, this is a continuation of above.
-
What adhesive is used for plastic card to Basla please?
-
Look at sticksall from Everbuild based in Leeds.
Stan
-
Isn't that a bit thick for area contact as opposed to joints?
Thanks Stan but would like to know what Ojay used :-))
-
Straying from the plans once again, I made my own bar armour from plasticard strips.
At this time I gave it all a coat of Vellajo olive brown/green to get an idea of what it would
look like.
Unfortunately the photo's do not show the correct shade, but I will play with the
settings on my camera before the end of the build.
The turrets are made from dowel with plasticard detailing, the bottom of the cupolas, and the rim
around the cap is just electrical wire cut and glued in position.
The bow plating is, you've guessed it, plasticard yet again. The top section of the bow plate is plasic
square section.
-
What adhesive is used for plastic card to Basla please?
A mixture of Cyano Thick for large areas, and Cyano Gell for where the plasticard is formed
around the prop tunnels.
Where the hull sides join the hull bottom, I applied polystyrene cement to allow them to bond
together
All outer and inner hull areas were then given two coats of yacht varnish, with several days
between coats.
Both as a waterproof seal and a way of making sure the hull/bottom joints had a good seal.
-
Thank you :-)
-
Thank you :-)
Your welcome.
-
An all over coat of olive drab green/brown, to see what it looked like.
To add a bit of interest, I made some tarps and camo nets using household tissue
and medical gauze.
A mixture of thinned white pva and Vallejo colour, was painted onto the tissue and gauze.
As I'm quite impatient, I put them in the microwave to dry.
The tarps were folded and the nets rolled and tied with thick cotton.
Crew was made up from various different kits, arms, legs, heads etc all swapped about
until I had the poses I wanted
The Huey has a small geared motor fitted into the transmission area, with a small length
of carbon fibre tube as a bearing for the main drive shaft.
The rest of the kittyhawk kit was built as per the plans.
-
For the power side of things, just a couple of cheap can motors, a spare servo I
happened to have and some cheap propshafts.
As per Glynns plans the superstructure is removable for access, but I added access to the bow area
and over the rudder posts.
-
Water leak and ballast test, sits a little lower than I would have liked, but a
change in battery should cure that.
Another all over coat of colour, then a coat of future before applying the decals.
Sealed with another coat of future then a little weathering.
Just an internal switch for the Huey motor to fit.
A final coat of matt and calling it done.
It has been a very enjoyable build throughout.
-
Final photo's.
-
HI Ojays looks good will post some pictures of the refit of my model later this week.
Stan.
-
Yes please, looking forward to it.
-
Great detail :-))
...we see the Av-Gas refilling hose connected up to the Heuie, then down below & then aft to the fuel pod....
Does the electric motor speed reducer actually spin the rotor blades?
Derek
-
Yes at 100rpm.
-
Fantastic work, very impressed with the detail and working features :-))
-
I built this model many years ago it is now in for a refit. Drive battery new fuses Rx battery tidy up the wiring new weapons to fit will post more pictures when the refit is finished. I must admit getting back into model building after two months out is proving very hard onward and upward so they say
Stan.
-
Final group of pictures before refit.
Stan
-
...erm... I couldn't help noticing (pic 5, reply No 7). I've heard of "topless modelling" before, I always thought it meant something else though :-)) . I guess thats one way to keep dust and paint off your shirt LoL.
The boat looks a fine job though! Those tarps and nets look really good.
Rich
-
I built this model many years ago it is now in for a refit. Drive battery new fuses Rx battery tidy up the wiring new weapons to fit will post more pictures when the refit is finished. I must admit getting back into model building after two months out is proving very hard onward and upward so they say
Stan.
Wow, some serious work there, no wonder you won that award.
-
Does the 2 V Cyclon power the Heli rotor motor speed reducer?
A bit of useless information....these same 2V Cyclon batteries were designed for and powered the Oberon Class Submarines when on silent running....
yes...banks & banks of multiple 2V Cyclons in a unique series parallel configuration O0
Derek
Courtesy Wiki........
"The submarine has two batteries, each comprising 224 2V cells (type D7420) giving a nominal 440-V output. One battery is located underneath the crew accommodation compartment, and the other under the control compartment. Each battery has a switch circuit in the middle so it can be split into two banks of 112 cells. The cells are designed to deliver 7420 Ah (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ampere_hour) over a period of 5 hours"
-
No, this is Stan's internal shots of his A.T.C.H.
The motor for the Huey is being powered by the same battery that is
driving everything else in mine.
-
I now have some serious thinking to do now that build is finished.
I have several builds on the go, 1/72 Gato, 1/72 Flower Class, 1/350
USS Enterprise and a 1/96 Type 22 that I recently acquired (unfinished)
I'll spend a few days going over them to see what grabs my mojo.
-
Hi Derek and ojays the 2 volt battery used to provide power for the main rotor via a speed controller. The radar motor and all LED lighting and small motor for the radar screen this is driven by a elastic band through geared unit from a water meter. The battery will be replaced by a voltage regulator feeding a Action two way switcher.
Stan
-
A couple more of Stan's for reference.
-
Brilliant, just brilliant.
So much going on there, thanks for posting.
-
Finally got her in the water.