Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => BRUSHLESS Motors and Speed Controllers => Topic started by: Richard Houston on July 27, 2019, 09:31:07 am
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Hobbyking is quoting October for this card to be back in stock does anyone have one or know where there might be one for sale, I have 2 brand new Marine ESC's awaiting the programming card
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Hello,
I bought a few ESCs that worked out of the box without programming ,mine looked to be clone motors there were a lot that looked the same but with different branding on them. Got a programming card from amazon that was branded with my motor brand but also had another brand on the packet. It was about £8 delivered. When I did plug the card in the ESCs were set in the middle of their ranges.
Will another brand of card help in your case ?
Paul
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Hello,
I bought a few ESCs that worked out of the box without programming ,mine looked to be clone motors there were a lot that looked the same but with different branding on them. Got a programming card from amazon that was branded with my motor brand but also had another brand on the packet. It was about £8 delivered. When I did plug the card in the ESCs were set in the middle of their ranges.
Will another brand of card help in your case ?
Paul
I have no clue but in case of messing them up i'd prefer to get the card for the right marine esc's to be safe
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Checkyour instructions as most brushless esc can also be programmed from the transmitter. Not as easy as a programming card as it generally means listening for a pattern of beeps.
Jim
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Motors come preset with default settings that may not need any adjustment depending on your application
The instruction leaflet should be used and read in detail
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But we aint taking about motors ...
its the Marine ESC's i'm talking about and the whole setup forward/reverse and all the other settings, was hoping to avoid the whole beep beep beeeeep but if I cant lay my hands on a programming card I might have too.
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Mine came set up with 25% reverse power, which was of course in the wrong direction. Easily solved by swapping two of the wires to the motor . The program card has helped but for me it was not essential .
Paul
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But we aint taking about motors ...
its the Marine ESC's i'm talking about and the whole setup forward/reverse and all the other settings, was hoping to avoid the whole beep beep beeeeep but if I cant lay my hands on a programming card I might have too.
Sorry yes I meant the ESC
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Richard, Tanaris is quite correct. I have a programing card, but it's far from essential, the ESC and motors will work as delivered. When yours arrives you can set up the details but that can wait.
Chas
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yeah, I wonder what the heat will be like, The boat I noticed has water scoops on each side, so i'm hoping they will cool the esc and reduce heat generation, if this is not enough alone I might need to fit a small water pump, either per esc or y-connected through both.
(https://i.imgur.com/GWJzupC.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/vM8z5VD.jpg)
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A shot during construction of mine. Both ESC are cooled with a single self priming pump (on the left). Many times I have forgotten to turn it on without producing a problem
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-S2q2Bst/0/0cfed76c/X4/i-S2q2Bst-X4.jpg)
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I have run a number of large models with Turnigy motors/esc and have never found water cooling to be necessary.
Try them with the default settings and if you do need a card I will loan you mine.
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When cooling more that one item, when does water cooling become water heating? Just thinking that as the water progresses through the system, it gets warmer, and the last item in the chain is being cooled by warmer water than intended.
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The water flow is such that it never gets warm
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Andy...it is a brave marine engineer %) who believes that plastic tubing will maintain mechanical integrity & not slip off one of these [8?] push on connectors ....& >>:-( floods the hull.......Derek
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I'm another who has never needed to water cool either the motor or ESC, but my models are running well within the limits of both. If I was to push the load on them to the max it might be a different story,. Or I might just swap them for something bigger.
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I'm presuming a single self priming pump will suffice, can I ask have you seen any lately worthy ones and what are they running off of a separate power source ?
And I agree 100% with andy, the water flow is cold coming in and at the end it exits the boat so should never get really warm, I know loads about computers I build them as a hobby and my fully water cooled PC worth over £5000 is as cool as a cucumber well until all this ruddy heat and humidity of late.
Andy not only is your boat very clean but the inside is huge lol what is it If I may ask and also can I ask how are they heat levels in the boat with them motors and ESC's and one last question in 2 parts...
1. What type of battery setup are you running size wise
2. What sort of run times are you getting, sorry to ask these questions but its been a little daunting moving from brushed old school no offence to anyone to the newer brushless and lipo setup
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Andy...it is a brave marine engineer %) who believes that plastic tubing will maintain mechanical integrity & not slip off one of these [8?] push on connectors ....& >>:-( floods the hull.......Derek
On the two occasions I’ve had to remove piping I’ve had to cut it off, it certainly won’t slip off Derek
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Pump offerings vary but search for micro self priming pumps on eBay
Example
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F202685568455 (https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F202685568455)
The pump runs good at 5volts off BEC happily but worth trying different voltages to get what you think you need certainly not 12
My boat is a Shannon 1:12 scale with completely removable deck. I don’t think anything has as good access as this.
I’ve never had an issue with heat build up
I use 35/42 1185kv SK3 with 50 amp ESC
In tests I could not blow 25amp fuses at continuous full speed
I use 4s 5000mah LiPo to each ESC
Run time from 20 minutes to 45 minutes dependent on speed
The second pump in mine is for bilge water
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Pump offerings vary but search for micro self priming pumps on eBay
Example
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F202685568455 (https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F202685568455)
The pump runs good at 5volts off BEC happily but worth trying different voltages to get what you think you need certainly not 12
My boat is a Shannon 1:12 scale with completely removable deck. I don’t think anything has as good access as this.
I’ve never had an issue with heat build up
I use 35/42 1185kv SK3 with 50 amp ESC
In tests I could not blow 25amp fuses at continuous full speed
I use 4s 5000mah LiPo to each ESC
Run time from 20 minutes to 45 minutes dependent on speed
The second pump in mine is for bilge water
Is there a way to gauge your motor choice against mine for comparison, i've been trying to figure out if the 4250-350kv's will be ok
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Depends what RPM you need mine run at 19,000 rpm with 28mm impellers
Volts times KV = RPM
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Depends what RPM you need mine run at 19,000 rpm with 28mm impellers
Volts times KV = RPM
Mine is no clue but 4250-350kv on 4S 5000mah on Marine 70A turnigy on a 60mm 2 blade racing type screw = 5180rpm on that screw x 2 so both generating 5180rpm on each prop
you are 14.8 x 1185kv = 17538rpm
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14.8 is nominal voltage not the fresh fully charged voltage :-)) That would be 16.8
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14.8 is nominal voltage not the fresh fully charged voltage :-)) That would be 16.8
Ah yes, this will also be my first ever lipo battery's so I'm really worried about all the hype and YouTube fires these can cause if not handled properly
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Charge it somewhere safe and supervised at a time as close as possible to using it. Otherwise put a storage charge on it
Use the balance charge as often as possible
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Charge it somewhere safe and supervised at a time as close as possible to using it. Otherwise put a storage charge on it
Use the balance charge as often as possible
Noted and thanks