Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Steam => Topic started by: dillinger 04 on February 04, 2021, 09:28:01 pm
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Hello Everyone
I am working on a small model steam boat what is the best way to fire proof a plywood cabin ?
Is there some way of sheeting the plywood with metal on the inside, is there a rule of thumb as to how far away the cabin walls need to be from the fire box.
Any help would be greatly appreciated
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dillinger 04,
In my balsa and plywood steam powered models I've used thin aluminum (pinched from Mr Guests roll of cocking foil) to insulate and protect the inside of the hull. A single layer stuck to the inner wood surfaces along with a "coffer-dam" style around the engine (thus creating an air gap with the hull sides) has worked OK so far.
By the way these were totally enclosed steam plants.
Glynn Guest
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I've used radiator foil as this has a thin layer of polystyrene insulation faced with a silver foil to reflect the heat. Cheap from any hardware store. Its a little fragine until glued in place but works well.
Cheers
Geoff
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Hello
Geoff and GG thank you for responding to my post appreciated ! question on the radiator foil what glue did you use to
glue it on to the inside of the cabin walls - any addition information appreciated
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Hmm, I think I just used resin w - or ordinary wallpaper paste should work
Cheers
Geoff
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Go to a DIY store and get yourself a solder mat, you can cut to shape and most glues will stick it to wood :-))
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Solder mats are excellent and I tend to use them for insulating the actual boiler before I put wooden planks on for appearance and as further insulation. Agree also very good for general insulation.
Cheers
Geoff
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Probably more expensive but Turbine flyers use a ceramic blanket as protection against the heat from engines and tailpipes.https://alshobbies.co.uk/bvm-ceramic-heat-blanket-12x24-j-bvm1710?search=BVM%20Ceramic (https://alshobbies.co.uk/bvm-ceramic-heat-blanket-12x24-j-bvm1710?search=BVM%20Ceramic)
There is also a ceramic water based paint which I can't find any stockists of at the moment by the same maker.
Jim
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I bought ceramic paper, the 3D printing guys should have it. Was about 1/16" thick and an 8"x8" sheet was about $3. Can't find a link right now.
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I tried ceramic paper and whilst it works found it very fragile and had a tendency to crack and break - depends if you have a flat surface I guess. Otherwise I tend to use a thin alloy plate or loft insulation.
Cheers
Geoff
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Geoff:
For the odd shaped areas think about using either high-temp silicone gasket sealant from an auto parts store, or some silicone wood-stove sealant from a DIY store. Both of those will be rated for over 500°F, and are relatively inexpensive. I made a custom silicone boot for the hot end of my 3D printer out of the silicone gasket sealant a couple of years ago, and it's still going strong.
Don