Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Working Vessels => Topic started by: midori gaoka on December 12, 2021, 08:23:30 pm
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Hello,
Few month after completing the "HMS Blyth" at 1/100 scale, I wondered which original project I could started. Walking on Cherbourg's quay, the choice was made: an original green hull: Bourbon Orca. In a 2020 July afternoon, I was able to get on board and took photos as much as I needed. Special thanks to the captain and crews who let me visiting anywhere.120 photos taken, were not the major challenge....How to get plans ?
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Could purchase a kit. :-)
https://barracudarcboats.mysimplestore.com/t/x-bow-tug-boats
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PM sent.
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Hello,
So I 've decided to make this project by my own as far as I can. I've contacted the "bourbon" relationship company, and explained what I would do with plans.
Few weeks later, I ve received the general arragement and 7 copies of bridges but not the lines drawing. I've superimposed the bridges and got 7 points that I linked.I' ve used a curve ruler to linked the points.
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Good to see traditional Lofting :-)) .....but I am a bit lost :embarrassed:
During some very rudimentary training many years ago [from an ex Loftsman employed by the Whyalla Ship Yards] was to keep all progressions equal ......[in those days Feet and fractions of Feet + Inches], however my training being for a model ship was using mm
We see you have a Datum 0.000 [assumed as cm]...then position 1.5 cm....then position 5.6 cm....then position 8.5 cm [Deck Levels above 0.0]
The issue here, without using equal progressions is that the human eye has greater difficulty in understanding the uniformity of the shape, and hence inaccuracy in the flow of the individual waterline
Do you have End Elevation views?....if so, equal progressions can be achieved, the lines are for hull profile, irrespective of deck level
So if you have chosen 1.5 [cm], then an equal progression would be 3.0, 4.5, 6.0 cm etc......[although the use of cm can be confusing >>:-( ]
In general engineering design protocols for machinery components for Metric units is hard mm........ 152mm, 1527mm or 20157mm
It is not too late, if you try equal progressions you will not be disappointed [and certainly less frustrated with the result]
Derek
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Good luck with your build, this was my attempt with an X-Bow. I was quite pleased with the result
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Hellom
You should be proud of the result.
Bon travail
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I remember you working away on that from buck to finished hull Chipchase. It was an interesting read as I am sure your build will be Midori!
Looking forward to more.
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Hello,
To answer at your question, I 've the end elevation. I watched many photos about the "Bourbon Orca" in dry dock. To compare with my drawing, Her shape does not look so bad. But I can't be sure. So it's time to cut frames. As you can see, in the middle, hull is flat but very thin in front
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Hello every body,
And first I wish you a merry christmas.
The keel appears quite massive at the front. the thruster's diameter looks large. The keel was cut in 8 mm plywood
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Hello everybody,
At first an happy new year with few modelboat project.
It was necessary to make a work plan with a floor, and check after that if bottom of frames are on the same plan.
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Starting to take shape :-))
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Hello,
As you said , it takes shape. So, now, Keel is nested in frames. As you can see, at bottom of frames, there are some holes. They are used to pass electric wires.
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Hello ,
The keel is laid.On each side of the hull, there is a plywood board. It's flat and do not need to follow a curve. there are several slats with different widths. They are glued with 5 min glue. I staple them to flattem them well. Few minutes later, I take them off.
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Hi Midori,
Nice start to an interesting project ! what is the overall length of the hull please?
Paul.
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Hello,
So the length of the hull is 86 cm but its beam is 18 cm long which is a large size at this scale.
In the same time, I 've completed the hull, I've prepared the mechanism of propulsion. The 2 large gears allow the 360° pods rotation.
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Hello,
Let's talk about pods. It's clear that it's hard to find this kind of thruster with the scale you are looking for. I did not have a lathe , so without, you can just forget to create nozzle or gear. So , a call and a copy of plan to my brother Guillaume, and thruster start. On a photo, you ll be able to see that propellers are curved in a brass block. They are not completed yet
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Hello,
So this is the end of the assembli of the pods. I 've put marine grease on gear before closing bulb. As you ll be able to see propellers are completed
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Wow, nice pods!
Love to watch your builds :-))
Hama
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Really nice work :-))
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Hello,
And at first, thank you for your comments, it shows me that I 'm on the good way for the Bourbon Orca. I'm sorry for the poor quality of photos, but my mobile phone as failed and my camera lens is broken. So, on the first photo, I've added a bow thruster tube. Diameter is big enough, 27 mm. Putty is applied around. On the second one, I've used plasticard sheet to complete the top of the hull. There are many cutting to do.
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Hello,
So now, both side on the top of hull, have been added. It's the last step before fiber glass and resine.
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Hello,
So ,the hull looks well good and it is time to strengh the hull. On first photo, I 've applied epoxy resin with a paint brush. And then ,a square of fiber resin has been laid on. With the same paint brus, I pushed out bair bubbles. On the second one, I had waited 1 day to cut the excess of fiber glass.
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Hello dear modellers,
I've forget to send photos about the pods construction .On the first one, you can see template to place the nozzle. For the last one, few holes have been made on the main gear, this made it possible to make the right adjustment for pod rotation
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Hello everybody,
It's a part of the "apron" (I hope the translation from french to english is good). On real boat, this part can move to touch water in order to facilitate the anchor's lifting .
I took many photos to represent rust of rear boat. On last photo, I will be able to see that right sid of apron need to be enlarged
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Hello,
The hull is already to be painted, but it's too cold to use the airbrush. I've applied a primer surfacer for acrylic paint..I've ordered few green paints in order to choose the best tint.
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Hello,
the rear deck is removable. I've sticked beech slabs 0.3 mm.I cut 1mm wide slats. I ve put powder pigment of differents shades in order to represent rust on metallic parts.But I've used differents shades of airbrush paint to give a touch of realism
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the hull looks stunning
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thank you for your comments.
Sorry for the delay to publish new photos. I've spent time in order to open the "pilot's door". There is two micro-servos, but they are linked with an Y futaba wire.
The first one has the link with the door itself and the second is used to move the figure. The door is 2 cm high and 1 cm width.
I'm ready to work on the bow thruster. But I have a question, on the photo and the plan, there is no gate to protect the bow thruster . When I look to the boxw thruster size, I wonder if this one has not been moved in dry dock.
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A very interesting subject, and an excellent build Midori, well done.
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Hello and thank you for comments.
I've took time to build some fittings. This is one of the 2 small winch close to the major winch. Its diameter is 20 mm .
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Hello,
Before the begining of the BOURBON ORCA, I did not wonder how to guides hawsers to winch, now I know.Eventhough, my plan was poor,I was lucky to get many photos
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Hello Midori, the amount of work going into this build is fantastic and, as with your previous models, very well detailed. I look forward to seeing this one coming together nicely.
Ray.
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Thank you every body for your comments.
Now, one of the two main winches is completed. It's time to think about a realistic mechanism for moving a small side crane.
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Hello,
So ,the first crane is under construction. As you can see on the second photo, there are 2 kind of servo. One is used to turn on 90° the crane. The other one is used to move the arm's crane.
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Hello,
This is the first crane trial. Small rudder bands hold the mast in the same axis of the base. The movement of the invisible thread allows to bend the mast.
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Fantastic work! :-))
Dom
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Thank you for your comment Dom,
I've started the massive crane. I will add a new fonction: a wire could move up and down a 20 ft container. If this one is a little bigger than the 2 side's cranes, there is not lots of space to install each mecanism.
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Hi Midori, I have no experience with these things but I guess it would depend, to some extent, what material the container will be made with i.e. metal wood or plastic.
Your build is coming on very nicely by the way.
Ray.
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Fantastic build :-))
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Lovely work on the deck equipment. I'm very envious.
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Hello,
And first many thanks for your comments. I've taken a break with micro mechanism for the hull's painting. As usually, I've started with the anti-fooling color and in the second time, the green colour. I've sprayed with an airbrush acrylics paint's edges. I recommend you a spanish brand of paint: mig jimenez. After that, i've added 7 edges of varnish ( tamya)
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Lovely paint job Midori. It always seems to give you a sense of achievement when this part of the build is completed. :-))
Ray.
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Hello.
thanks for your commment. I would like to represent the Bourbon Orca model's real as far as I can.
I ve glued some light pigment to represent shell. With a small brush, the excess will be removed.
On second time, I 've used dark and light green paints and added some pigments to represent seaweeds.
On the last photos, you can see as another post (on the real one), traces of chain.
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Hello,
As you can see on each side on the front of the hull, the is a massive "B" which is the first letter of company's name "Bourbon".
I've used 2 masking tape sheets, and with a sharped blade, I 've tried to cut a "B".Many white edges were sprayed on the hull to represent the B
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Hi Midori, old rule is to make sure to paint in same colour green first to seal the edges of the masking tape for a clean edge! ....maybe too late now!? Bourbon certainly know how to present their logo on their boats anyway.
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Hello ,
So now, hull is ready for sea trials. I've found on Ebay, Boubon Orca's decals at 1/100 to complete the hull. I've added varnish on them in order to protect them.
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Hello,
The stern of a ship near water, often has trace of rust. The anchors damages as well paints. Before painting green and white, I've air-sprayed a rusty paint. With a small sharp, I've scratched the lovely initial paints.
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That is really cool, many thanks for the paint idea :-)
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Great progress Midori, I am following with interest.
Garry
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Hello,
It's time to complete the rusty rear. You can see the rusty chain impacts on each side. Rust can be light or dark , it depends if it's new or not.
Next step: the wheelhouse
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Hello,
As I 've said previously, It's time to make the wheelhouse. This one is made up of 18 sides. The next boat will be simpler...I swear
It takes time and precision to sand each side.
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Hello,
I would like to close the wheelhouse with figures inside but it took a long time to receive them from the post . So during this period, I've tried to make the mast.
I've welded 0.3 mm brass rods to make the railing. the floors meshes is about 0.2 mm. The rounded shape was made by scissors. The different lights will be added after the black paint.
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That's a very nice result. Will you airbrush it?
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Hello,
As you guess, I've air-brushed the mast. Later, I'll add lights .
More photos are coming
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Pretty neat with the screen/grate decking.
I wonder if droplet size from spray can would have filled the screen grid.
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Hello,
The wheelhouse is under construction. The mast, the roof, and funnels have been glued. As you can see, there is one exhaust which is a little smoke generator
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Looking really good great work :-))
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Hello,
the wheelhouse is quite hard, with its 46 wipers. Each one is made with 0.3 mm brass.Now, I m working on radars, photos are coming soon.
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Lovely and accurate looking work so far. It's going to be a nice model O0
Ray.
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Supa detail...[as usual] :-)) ...looking forward to more O0 ... Derek
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Thank you for each coment.
So, the wheelhouse is completed. One glass need to be glued, as you can see on first photo. I've added some rust powder in order to be more realistic.
From optic fiber, I've made some red and yellow lights with clear paints .
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Your attention to detail and ability to make things look right is marvellous - good work Midori :-))
Ray.
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Fantastic work. Even more so considering it's 1/100. Those wipers must be tiny. Very impressive.
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Thats fantastic. Great build.
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Hello,
An happy new year or a bonne année, as you wish.
Bourbon Orca still under construction, slowly but surely.
On first photo, you will be able to see that I've made my own handrail.
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Happy New Year to you as well Midori.
May I ask how you joined the railing, was it adhesive or solder? I can't see from the picture unfortunately.
Your model is coming along very nicely indeed.
Garry
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Hello Garry,
I've used masking tape with glued side to limit the risk of rail moving.
But they are soldered
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Happy New year Midori!
I too wondered about the tape so, is it as follows :-
Place the horizontal tape glue side up and the vertical tape glue side down, then place the upright stanchions on the horizontal tape, at the marks, then the rails onto the uprights and solder to the stanchions - is that correct?
Ray.
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Hello Garry,
I've used masking tape with glued side to limit the risk of rail moving.
But they are soldered
Hi Midori, thank you, I did understand the reason for the masking tape, I have just used blobs of Blue Tack to that end.
I'll have to give the masking tape method a go.
Garry
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Thank you Garry and Ray for your interest.
In few days, I'll have to solder rails on stairs, and paint each step with a brush.
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Hello,
Another afternoon of handrails soldering, but the end is near by.
The front of the ships is completed
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Hello lovely job on the construction and installation of the handrails (stanchions). For me the best thing is they are unobtrusive.
So many times we see otherwise excellent models that when viewed from a short distance away, the handrails stand out. In reality they should be as you have done 'just there' and part of the model.
Great job.
Regards
Roy
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Hello,
It's time to get back on the main winch. I 'll will have to detail it because it takes a massive place behind the wheelhouse.
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Hi there Midori, I'll definitely be interested in seeing the progress on your winch :-))
Ray.
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Bonjour and thank you for your words.
The main winch is composed with another part which can guide the hawsers.
But sorry, I don't know the word of this part.
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Hi there Midori, as far as I'm aware the device is known as a cable spooling guide. Your version looks like it's going to be quite accurate :-))
Ray.
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Thank you Ray,
So the cable spooling guide is completed. I've added some rust and grease effect to be similar as i saw 4 years ago.
Each chain link is less 1 mm long
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Well, that certainly looks accurate to me Midori. Great work!
Cheers,
Ray.
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Very nice!
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In many wire winch hauling devices, the totally separate ancillary component is called a "Leyering Device"
Simply, during the hauling in, of winch wires, it ensures the wires sit next to the earlier wire loop. and sits firmly and straight ensuring the next loop also follows the same aligned path
Naturally during the paying out process, the same but opposite function results
This example here uses the 1.0mm pitch chain to transmit longitudinal [backwards & forwards] motion to the 4-leg saddle that glides along the bed of the device
A wire guide is close fitted between the saddle of the Layering Device, to the actual Reversable Hauling Winche
Hagglunds [the Swedish hydraulic winch people], use a left-hand thread machined over a right-hand thread, to achieve this tidy winch wire positionong, whan hauling in/paying out via its Leveling Device shaft
Hope this makes sense..........
Derek
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In many wire winch hauling devices, the totally separate ancillary component is called a "Leyering Device"
Simply, during the hauling in, of winch wires, it ensures the wires sit next to the earlier wire loop. and sits firmly and straight ensuring the next loop also follows the same aligned path
Naturally during the paying out process, the same but opposite function results
This example here uses the 1.0mm pitch chain to transmit longitudinal [backwards & forwards] motion to the individual 4 single saddles that glide along the bed of the device
A wire guide is close fitted between the saddle of the Layering Device, to the actual Reversable Hauling Winche
Hagglunds [the Swedish hydraulic winch people], use a left-hand thread machined over a right-hand thread, to achieve this tidy winch wire positionong, whan hauling in/paying out via its Leveling Device shaft
Hope this makes sense..........
Derek
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Thank you for your help.
So the cable spooling guide and the main winch are completed and sticked on deck.
The next step is to make 2 kinds of rolls guide for hawsers.
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Hello,
Rolls were not to difficult to build. I've used syringe tube to do it.
For painting, this kind of clamps are very usefull, specially when using airbrush.
On the real photo, painting seems to be white, it'is not. It'is like the winch: light grey.
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Hello,
So, davits and rescue boat (Man Over Board) are made. The next step, will be paint.
After that , I will add a micro servo and an invisible wire to let the MOB on water.
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Hello,
So the M.O.B has just been painted. I would like to add the boat's name, but I must admit it's too small.
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A great result Midori, fantastic detail.
Well done mate.
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Hello,
So , the mechanism is completed for putting the MOB on water. As you could see on a photo, there is an invisible wire beetween a brass stripe and the M.O.B
When the stripe is parallel to the bridge : the MOB is down. When the stripe is perpendicular (servo rotation): the M.O.B is up
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Hello,
I've just completed the 2 small cranes. As you could see, one should be able to turn. I've added some rust, smoke and grease effect.
All of them have been covered by a mat varnish.
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Those cranes look great! I also like your weathering!
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Hello,
So, small cranes have found their places. I've used transfer letters, 2,5 mm and 4 mm high, to represent crane inscriptions. On the second photo, I've started "the weathering" details on the main crane.
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Hello,
So, the main crane has succeeded on its trials. So, you should be able to see the it can turn and lift a container
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Wow, great work Midori she's coming along very nicely. Looking forward to seeing more of your progress... Cheers!
Ray.
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Hello,
So , the "Bourbon Orca" still running. The main crane works properly. I've changed wires on the container. Now, it's looking more realistic, more tighter.
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Hello everybody,
So, paint and weathering have been made on the main winch. It looks a little bit more realistic. I only have 2 small winches to finish the model
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Hello everybody,
So the "Bourbon Orca" is definitevely completed. I will post some photos very closed to show details about it.
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Congratulations on completing Bourbon Orca Midori, she looks really spectacular, very well executed.
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thank you TWORRS for your coment,
Theses photos are coming from my last trials "at sea". It took me a long time to use properly the remote control because the pod's roation is very sensitive
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:-)) she looks just great sitting in the water, a really inspiring build to follow from start to finish, hats off to you my friend
Trucker
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Spectacular. I've relly enjoyed following along with this build, thank you for sharing. :-))
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Great result, and a great build log. I've picked up plenty of tips fom your photos. Thanks.