Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Pleasure boats, Sports, Race, Power and Leisure Boats: => Topic started by: zooma on January 29, 2022, 10:32:02 am
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The first Nor Star model boat has joined my fleet of classic model power boats from the 1960's sort of time period that I have been enjoying restoring and returning to "active service" over the last few years.
This Wave Rider shows that the kit would have been well specified and solidly specified in good quality plywood, and some of the kit numbers can still be seen clearly printed on some of the parts.
Unusually, the first thing that I did was to knock the stand apart as it was not shaped to fit the bottom of the hull and it caused the boat to sit with its stern higher in the air than the bows. The stand (although quite a simple) was quite a nice shape when compared to my own fruit box types), so I tidied-up the end plates on the band saw by making them symmetrical so that the boat could sit "square" on it rather than at the twisted angle that it came with.
I also shortened the softwood side runners as they had been roughly sawn and were split and splintered on the ends, but it will still "look" the same and nicer than my usual fruit box type!
This weekend I will take a quick look at the boat to see if I can fit restoring it in-between my other ongoing classic model power boat projects!
I have no idea how well this model will perform as I have never seen one on the water, so it could be interesting!
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HI Zooma
I have one of these little tanks!!!
Performance on the water, it requires a set of spray rails or two.
Of course chine rails.
I installed a 28mm 1800kv brushless on 3S which I had, but I wish to change to a 35mm 1250kv.
Go well, but restoring boats in lockdown was a pain i the butt !!
Canabus
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Good info Harry - thanks :-))
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I have a more or less complete kit (in poor condition) that I will someday used as the basis of a new Waverider (I built one about 50 years ago). The kit still has the price on the box - 69/11
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I have a more or less complete kit (in poor condition) that I will someday used as the basis of a new Waverider (I built one about 50 years ago). The kit still has the price on the box - 69/11
That is interesting Dave, and if you have a complete kit of parts to work with (and a plan?) it will be easy to replace some (or all) of the parts to build a nice new model.
With all of the kit parts available to you, it would be easy just to use them as templates and make a complete new model out of fresh new wood. That is exactly what I have done with my H&M Wavemaster 34 as it still leaves me with a complete original kit with plans and instructions that may be of some use in the future.
From what I can see, the Wave Rider is a well specified design that will build into a very strong model so it will be a nice project, and hopefully when you do it you can add it to this thread (or start another) so we can see what one would look like during the construction.
Stay safe - Bob.
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Thanks, Bob. The model was bought on eBay 2 or 3 years ago, described as part-built, but the building probably took place about 50 years ago. Unfortunately, the assembled parts and rest of the kit had simply been put into a cardboard box and posted, nothing to protect the model at all. By the time it arrived, it was mostly broken parts, and most of the ply had partially delaminated, so really it is just a plan and some parts I can use as templates.
The previous one I built long ago was quite heavy, very thick ply keel & chines, probably needed as it was originally IC and free running or R/C, so much have need to be able to resist a starting chord around a diesel's flywheel, and potentially some full power meetings with the edge of the pond.
When I get around to building it, I think I'll make it a lot lighter, as modern radio is so much more reliable than the single channel 27 mHz gear I had back then - and a nice smooth brushless will put far less strain on the structure than a rattly old diesel.
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I seem to remember reading somewhere (in the distant past) about the need to keep the weight towards the rear of the boat as the Wave Rider has a tendency to be nose heavy?
It would be nice to know a bit more about this as I will shortly be deciding on where to position everything, and the heaviest single item that I have to act as ballast will be the LiPo pack.
Maybe the plans show where the ideal centre of gravity or balance point should be ? - but it would be good to know what works best before I fix a LiPo mount as I can work-out the best location to place it in the hull and avoid the need for any additional weights.
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Thanks, Bob. The model was bought on eBay 2 or 3 years ago, described as part-built, but the building probably took place about 50 years ago. Unfortunately, the assembled parts and rest of the kit had simply been put into a cardboard box and posted, nothing to protect the model at all. By the time it arrived, it was mostly broken parts, and most of the ply had partially delaminated, so really it is just a plan and some parts I can use as templates.
The previous one I built long ago was quite heavy, very thick ply keel & chines, probably needed as it was originally IC and free running or R/C, so much have need to be able to resist a starting chord around a diesel's flywheel, and potentially some full power meetings with the edge of the pond.
When I get around to building it, I think I'll make it a lot lighter, as modern radio is so much more reliable than the single channel 27 mHz gear I had back then - and a nice smooth brushless will put far less strain on the structure than a rattly old diesel.
If the model needs any ballast to make it "sit" in the water nicely, I would rather have the weight in a good strong construction than have to add any "dead-weight" anywhere in the hull.
Performance models will always be built as light as possible to help maximise speed, but I think modern brushless motors will give a choice of several that will have more that enough power to shove this little boat along at an alarming speed without having to worry too much about a lightweight construction.
........but I wont know that for sure until I run it - so I will report back when I have some real life experience of what it can do - but I think Harry is already getting his Wave Rider to scoot along at a fair pace! O0
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HI Zooma
I have one of these little tanks!!!
Performance on the water, it requires a set of spray rails or two.
Of course chine rails.
I installed a 28mm 1800kv brushless on 3S which I had, but I wish to change to a 35mm 1250kv.
Go well, but restoring boats in lockdown was a pain i the butt !!
Canabus
Hi Harry,
Have you added any triangular strakes to the underside of your Wave Rider?
Bob.
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I'll check the plan to see if there is any indication of CG position, but I doubt that there will be.
I plan to go for a lighter construction partially to save a bit of weight, but also to make the job a bit easier - I can remember it was quite hard work to plane & sand the plywood keel & chines (though I was only 13 or 14 at the time!).
I've got a 2836 1000KV brushless lined up for it (I have used them before in models this size) on either 2 or more likely 3 cell lipo pack or the equivalent in NiMH. I remember the Waverider as being a bit of a handful if the engine was too powerful.
Back in a few minutes, going to dig the kit out and check the plan for you.
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I'll check the plan to see if there is any indication of CG position, but I doubt that there will be.
I've got a 2836 1000KV brushless lined up for it (I have used them before in models this size) on either 2 or more likely 3 cell lipo pack or the equivalent in NiMH. I remember the Waverider as being a bit of a handful if the engine was too powerful.
Back in a few minutes, going to dig the kit out and check the plan for you.
Thanks Dave - I am working on mine now - and I may have a similar motor - I will take a look now.
Bob.
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No CG on the plan, and nothing mentioned in the instructions either. I can't remember ever seeing that info on a model boat plan - I assume that if it floats at or parallel to the water line, then the CG is correct.
The final paragraph of the instructions are interesting:
The prototype was fitted with an M.E. Snipe engine, a Pixie Radio Control Single Channel unit and using O.S. Motorised escapement. The model was extremely fast so great care should be taken if let go on a small area of water as it is quite easy to run into an obstruction before you realise it.
(the odd capitalisation has been copied from the original)
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Thanks for the info Dave,
The last paragraph from the building instructions reads well - very interesting.
Your little brushless motor should easily produce more power than an ME Snipe diesel engine.
Bob.
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I've got several projects on the go at the moment (and not enough space for any of them!) but I am trying to resist the urge to make a start on the Waverider until I have completed at least a couple of the half-built models.
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Also see: https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,4787.0.html
(https://i.postimg.cc/KKHp3L8m/Mayhem-01.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/KKHp3L8m) (https://i.postimg.cc/Hc8ZwxrX/Mayhem-02.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Hc8ZwxrX)
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It's still a great looking boat, no matter how long ago it was designed.
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Bob's Project Number......Oh.....Um....32ish! Oh, and what came after Kim?
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Tonight I made the decision to remove the 11" 4BA prop shaft from my "new to me" Wave Rider as it had some "play" in the bearings at both ends. Also, I did not have enough space in the engine bay to fit an alloy water-cooled motor mount with a brushless motor mounted onto it.
The prop shaft extended into the engine bay more than it needed to so I chipped away at the body filler that had been used to bond it into the hull until it had a bit less of a "bite" and then gave it a few taps with a heavy hammer. Once the remaining pieces of filler were cracked they were chipped away and the shaft was firmly gripped in my hand and twisted and pulled until it was free of the hull.
I had an old 5mm prop shaft on the bench that had been removed from another model some years ago, so I cut this down to 10", tapped-out the bearing from the cut-off section and reinserted it in the shortened shaft .
Next I started to align it with a brushless motor that I had loosely bolted into a new alloy water-cooled motor mount that I laid onto the kit engine mounting platform that was already fitted in the hull.
A Powerflex coupling that had been bored out to 5mm at each end to fit the motor shaft and the new M5 prop shaft was fitted and everything was aligned and also checked that the new shaft would give the same position for the propeller - albeit at a slightly shallower angle with enough clearance for a 50mm prop (the biggest size I could ever envisage using) .
The epoxy side cheeks of the motor mount were pressed down firmly and "spotted" into place with a small dab of superglue on each side while the alignment was finally checked again and then both outside edges of the mount were given a full run of superglue along their entire length to give a permanent bond to the engine mounting platform.
At a later date when everything is permanently mounted the motor will be un-bolted from the alloy water-cooled motor mount to make the inside edges of the epoxy engine mount "side cheeks" fully accessible and more superglue will be run along both of the inside edges to reinforce the bond.
I used the above technique first when I was restoring Rapier 1 and that boat has since had many hours of running with various powerful brushless motors and it is still going strong, although I did paste a fillet of epoxy along the bonding areas to double reinforce the joint at a later date. I don't know if this was necessary - but I prefer the "belt and braces" approach to guarantee the engine mounting security.
Next I marked a small off-cut of 5mm ply to show the angle between the underside of the hull and the underside of the prop shaft and cut it into a fillet that I will bond between the hull and the prop shaft when I complete the next stage of bonding the prop shaft into the hull. This can also be "blended in" to make a nice fairing at a later date with some body filler prior to the final finishing.
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I've got several projects on the go at the moment (and not enough space for any of them!) but I am trying to resist the urge to make a start on the Waverider until I have completed at least a couple of the half-built models.
A very sensible thing to do..........and something that I have totally failed to achieve at any time! %)
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I haven't succeeded in the last 50 years, but I am sure that change is just around the corner! :}
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Bob's Project Number......Oh.....Um....32ish! Oh, and what came after Kim?
I am not sure if anything will come after Kim, but I have been taking a look at the windscreen and notice that most of the Wave Riders that I have seen don't have the central dividing pillar left in them.
This pillar is just a thin square weak looking stick and it does not look very good (it reminds me of the way LesRo failed to finish the windscreen divides on the Rapier convincingly), so I will see if I can come up with something to improve on this area and retain the divider but make it look a little nicer - and probably a bit stronger too!
The back of the cabin was fractured in transit to me, but this has been repaired and looks OK so the superstructure is now basically sound and only needs a little cosmetic detail to finish it.
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New bits!
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Thanks for up-loading the pictures for me Tony.
I need to check that the new engine mounts and shaft are fitted securely today and fix the prop-shaft support permanently too.
The shaft had 24 hour Araldite flooded around it and the keel last night, so that should be dry by now so I can get on and see what else needs "sorting" today.
This is only going to be a "short refurbishment project" to return the boat to the water as quickly as possible. :-))
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New bits!
That's a useful looking motor mount, may I ask whether you made it or bought it? If bought, where from??
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That's a useful looking motor mount, may I ask whether you made it or bought it? If bought, where from??
Hi Dave,
I use these alloy water-cooled motor mounts on all my model boats as they are "as cheap as chips" and offer a "plug-in" motor system that allows me to swap motors in just 2-3 minutes - almost as easy as Lego. ;)
I buy mine from a UK supplier via eBay but they can be bought from a number of different sources. Here is a link to the ones that I use:-
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361330720797 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361330720797)
I have used these in all my powerboats since switching to electric power and they have stood the test of time. They offer a good solid mount and the water cooling helps to keep the front bearings on a brushless motor cooled, but not everyone is a fan of water-cooling and for those that prefer to run their boats without, the alloy mount can also act as a heat sink.
Hope this helps,
Bob.
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Thanks, Bob - motor mounting has been the bane of my life since returning to the hobby a few years ago - these look ideal and Prestwich?Dave Marles have long had a good reputation.
I'll order a couple right away!
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Thanks, Bob - motor mounting has been the bane of my life since returning to the hobby a few years ago - these look ideal and Prestwich?Dave Marles have long had a good reputation.
I'll order a couple right away!
Funnily enough I ordered two more of them first thing this morning as well Dave!
I like to keep a couple in stock at all times. :-))
Every time I refurbish or build a new boat the epoxy "side cheeks" of the mount gets bonded into hull permanently and so they will always stay with the boat, but every motor gets screwed onto its own alloy mount so I can swap motors between hulls or change to different types at any time. Especially handy as this works just as well with all the out-runners and in-runners that I have ever wanted to use.
The only thing that can stop total interchangeability is when the side cheeks are bonded into position to take a rear mounted brushless (aero type) motor. The mounts still work just as well, but it restricts the type of motor that can be readily exchanged to other rear mounted motors of the same (aero mounting) types.
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That's four they've sold this morning at least, then! Looking forward to trying them out. I had to swap motors (twin motors & shafts) in a 3 ft Robbe Police boat a couple of years ago and it was a hell of a job!
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And.....
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That looks like a lot of motor for a little Waverider! The instructions in my ancient kit box say the original was 'extremely fast' with a 1.5cc diesel! According to contemporary power tests of the Snipe, it produced approx 99 PHP per litre, which I make to be about 0.15 bhp, or 110 watts in electric terms (I'm not any kind of an engineer so I might be out by a mile!). I used to own a few little diesels and they didn't have much in the way of power, that's for sure.
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That looks like a lot of motor for a little Waverider! The instructions in my ancient kit box say the original was 'extremely fast' with a 1.5cc diesel! According to contemporary power tests of the Snipe, it produced approx 99 PHP per litre, which I make to be about 0.15 bhp, or 110 watts in electric terms (I'm not any kind of an engineer so I might be out by a mile!). I used to own a few little diesels and they didn't have much in the way of power, that's for sure.
Hi Dave,
The motor that is shown in the pictures was the first one that I picked up with a mount fitted to it, and when it is taken out (so I can finish the inside work), it may not be the one that is put back in it again!
Considering your comments about the power and it being a bit of a handful if the motor was too powerful, I have taken a good look at the hull on my Wave Rider and decided to make a couple of small changes that may help.
The bow had a nib on it where the two chine spray rails came to meet in a point. I never like to see this and in theory it could dig-in and upset the handling, so I have sanded it back to blend-in to the bows and knocked up a quick little gauge to space the strakes that I have decided to fit.
I have started to scrape away the paint in the areas where I am going to fit the strakes. I am going to fit two full length strakes on each side of the hull underside.
The strakes have been cut and I am past the point of no return so I am committed to fitting them.
What could go wrong............................... :embarrassed:
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Thank you for putting my fears for the safety of your Waverider to rest - and I shall incorporate some of your ideas into my build when I get to it (still haven't got my bench back yet!). Bringing these classics back to life, or recreating them, is a very worthy path to follow. I also have a partially built Lesro (Slec) Arrow and unstarted kits for a Sea Comander (modern re-issue) and a genuine Aerokits 46" Crash Tender kit (plus one I bought ready made). Basically still trying to fulfil my dreams from 50 years ago or more!
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Thank you for putting my fears for the safety of your Waverider to rest - and I shall incorporate some of your ideas into my build when I get to it (still haven't got my bench back yet!). Bringing these classics back to life, or recreating them, is a very worthy path to follow. I also have a partially built Lesro (Slec) Arrow and unstarted kits for a Sea Comander (modern re-issue) and a genuine Aerokits 46" Crash Tender kit (plus one I bought ready made). Basically still trying to fulfil my dreams from 50 years ago or more!
It sounds like you and I both have similar ambitions to try and fulfil our dreams from years ago - in my case more like 55 - 60 years ago!
Harry seems to have his Wave Rider performing well at high speed in Tasmania, so I think our Wave Masters should be able to go just as well when they are "the right way up" over here in the UK {-)
Thanks to your wise words of caution, some small mods been added to help stabilise the model. If it needs more help, I will remove the small 'scale-like" chine spray rails and replace them with wider ones made from 1/4" x 1/8" obechie strips - or even laminate two layers of these strips if extreme measures are needed (classic 1960's fix).
One classic model that I have not acquired yet is the Aerokits Crash Tender and I think that every classic model boat collection should have one!
I think I would like to have a go at the 46" version, so if I should ever see one at the right sort of pensioners price I would be very tempted to find it a place in my waiting room, but suspect that it may do a bit of queue jumping as I have never had one of these and would enjoy running one - although the scale fittings would add a fair bit to the cost <:(
Meanwhile - all 4 of the strakes and have been added so I just need to fix a water scoop and then I can finish-off the underside of the boat and start working on it when it is the right way up again! :-))
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Both of my Crash Tenders are 46" jobs - and they're really too big for my small modelling room. The ready built I bought from my local model shop has been left on a shelf since I got it, and I could do with the space back. I bought an unbuilt kit locally from a Facebook advert, and then added £100 or more in fittings before it occurred to me that it would take up as room as the pre-built one! Both have been for sale for a month or two now, neither have attracted any interest. Must be more of a niche market than I thought!
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Both of my Crash Tenders are 46" jobs - and they're really too big for my small modelling room. The ready built I bought from my local model shop has been left on a shelf since I got it, and I could do with the space back. I bought an unbuilt kit locally from a Facebook advert, and then added £100 or more in fittings before it occurred to me that it would take up as room as the pre-built one! Both have been for sale for a month or two now, neither have attracted any interest. Must be more of a niche market than I thought!
The Wave Rider is a much more manageable size to store and transport Dave :-))
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Back in the day, a propshaft 'P' bracket was regarded as an essential fitting to support it rather than fairing the gap between the keel and the tube. Would have thought that it is more important with todays buzz saw lecky motors?
Regards Ian.
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Back in the day, a propshaft 'P' bracket was regarded as an essential fitting to support it rather than fairing the gap between the keel and the tube. Would have thought that it is more important with todays buzz saw lecky motors?
Regards Ian.
I cut and fit a plywood fillet to do the same job as a "P" bracket Ian - it is at least as solid, and I think it looks nicer and give less drag - especially when it is faired-in.
As an additional bonus - any excess vibration caused by an unintended misalignment of the drive train quickly shows itself up with a faired-in prop shaft when small hairline cracks appear between it and the hull or the shaft itself and can be quickly inspected and corrected.
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The Wave Rider is a much more manageable size to store and transport Dave :-))
Yes indeed! I must impose a size limit on any future purchases - maximum length of 3ft (or one metre if I have to!).
Dave
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The biggest size boat that I currently operate on a regular basis is my Rapier, and at just over 39" long it is as big as I would want to carry every week and to find space to house when it is not in action.
The 28" Wave Rider should be much more manageable.........and make space for a couple more when travelling to the club lake too!
Bob.
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I have a Robbe Police boat which is about 35" long and is a good balance between storage/transport size and being visible on the lake size!l
I have a couple of two footers in the build at the moment, but whenever I think of them more than 50 away, I lose enthusiasm for them. On the other hand, they will be easier to hide in a corner of the car when going anywhere that might involve a stretch of water.
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Some bottom bits!
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The top picture shows the "nib" that was formed by the joining of the two lower chine rails that extended beyond the bows on the boat when I bought it from eBay last week.
Picture 2 shows this 'nib" sanded away and what the lower chine rails look like now after sanding them back to a more normal position.
The last picture shows the first strake glued in place after scraping away the paint in that area to expose the wood surface that is needed to make a secure bond to the newly cut strake.
I made a very simple gauge from the end of an old Venetian blind slat to enable me to judge where to scrape away the paint and then where to place the strake. This same simple gauge was used to space the second strake away from the first to keep them parallel to each other and at the same spacing.
The second side of the hull bottom was treated in the same way, so now the hull has four strakes added (two on each side) - hopefully to help with the handling when running fast with a suitable out-runner motor - and partly cosmetic to improve the looks %)
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Sort of how she looks now!
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The first two pictures show all four strakes fitted with the prop shaft "support" in place.
The new re-cycled M5 prop shaft has been cleaned-up and a 50mm prop has been fitted to check that it has enough working clearance with the slightly shallower shaft angle, although I doubt I will need to use a prop quite this large.........but you never know!
A water scoop has been added (the model never had one previously) and a new rudder has been fitted.
The original rudder was quite small, so I have fitted a standard Medium sized rudder to give a little more steering authority as I don't think the original one would give me the steering that I would like......and it just looked too small.
A 4mm shaft was fitted to the old rudder and the mounting tube was also cut quite short and could actually be below the waterline, so the new rudder has a 5mm shaft and the mounting tube was left as high as possible and only just clears the underside of the aft deck. This will make fitting the steering arm a bit of a squeeze, but it will be an improvement.
The old and new rudders are pictured together for comparison.
Now I need to do some filling and sanding prior to giving it a good couple of under-coats of paint to prepare it for its gloss finish.
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Hi Zooma
That's one great set of strakes.
Canabus
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Hi Zooma
That's one great set of strakes.
Canabus
Thanks Harry,
They should look good when they are painted - and hopefully they will work well too!
Stay safe.
Bob.
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Hi Dave,
I use these alloy water-cooled motor mounts on all my model boats as they are "as cheap as chips" and offer a "plug-in" motor system that allows me to swap motors in just 2-3 minutes - almost as easy as Lego. ;)
I buy mine from a UK supplier via eBay but they can be bought from a number of different sources. Here is a link to the ones that I use:-
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361330720797 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361330720797)
Hope this helps,
Bob.
Hi Bob, I ordered a couple of these minutes after you posted this on Tuesday and get them in this morning's post. They look like they're well made, too. Another problem solved!
Dave
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Hi Bob, I ordered a couple of these minutes after you posted this on Tuesday and get them in this morning's post. They look like they're well made, too. Another problem solved!
Dave
Good news - mine arrived this morning as well Dave.
I am pleased you are happy with them - I always worry when I recommend something - just incase............
Bob. :-))
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Your recommendation was much appreciated - except that I'll now have to replace the simple plastic mounts I've been using with these. I'll only change the builds in progress, not worth digging mounts out of perfectly happy models.
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I have been a lot busier over the last few days with things I hadn't planned to get involved with, but in-between other jobs today I sneaked into the workshop/shed and bunged a very quick coat of paint on the underside of the hull.
This is a sure-fire way to highlight any problems with wobbly or poorly spaced strakes so I was keen to get this first coat of paint covering them so I could see what corrective work may need doing prior to sanding down and building a better paint finish.
I took a quick snap of the hull as soon as I had put the paint on it so I have not had chance to give it a "good coat of looking at" yet - but the initial thought is that it does not look too bad, so given that this is just a quick refurbishment job - it looks like I will not be doing any more construction work to the underside of the hull.
Thank goodness - now I must get the stand painted so I can add some rubber feet to the underside corners and and some pipe insulation to the tops of the ends to protect the strakes as I bash on with the topside and hull interior.
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Comments on a postcard to...........Bob Zooma, The North, UK
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Dear Bob.............yikes!
Having a lovely time. Chris
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Suit You Sir?........Don't worry, Bob knows what I mean!
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......."Today I are mainly painting Green"............. O0
Anyone else enjoy "Jesse's tips" on The Fast Show?
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The first coat of green paint on the underside of the hull and the underside of the recycled "orange box" type stand has finally dried, so I have been able to fit the rubber feet to the underside of the stand and flip it over and paint the top surfaces.
When this paint has dried, I will be able to fit some foam cushions to each end of the stand so I can turn the hull over and do some more work on it without having to worry as much about the strakes being damaged when it is placed on the stand while I am working on the boat.
The Sea Commander can be seen in the background - I am fitting it in-between working on the Wave Rider...........etc :-))
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......."Today I are mainly painting Green"............. O0
Anyone else enjoy "Jesse's tips" on The Fast Show?
Cheesy peas green perhaps?
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Cheesy peas green perhaps?
:-))
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Dear Bob.............yikes!
Having a lovely time. Chris
Thanks for your card {-)
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The weather was slightly better today so I nipped out into the shed(workshop) and took a look around to see what paint I had laying around to give a first coat of colour to the Wave Runner hull.
Well basically I found some black paint - so that is what I have used for the hull sides :embarrassed:
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Sorry Bob, Black ain't a colour!
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Sorry Bob, Black ain't a colour!
When I rub the hull down to improve the surface ready for some final coats of paint, I may have a re-think about my colour (or non-colour) choice for the Wave Rider, but for now the hull is black and green.
Amongst the tins of paint, I did find another "non-colour paint" (white) and was tempted to use that, but I am guessing that most of my classic model boats will end-up with a white hull, so I thought I would take a look to see what black would look like on this one.
Rapier1 has black hull sides and has attracted a lot of favourable comments from lakeside viewers, and some have described it as being "very distinctive" (that may not be intended as complimentary!) but it is "different" and this Wave Rider could also end up looking just a little bit different too.
Green is not a colour I would usually associate with model boats, and it is not one that I would have thought about using on any of mine, but this green did look nice and bright so I have put some on to see what it looks like when contrasted with some gloss black.
When the paint is dry I will take a good look at it in daylight and see if I think it was such a good idea .......or not. :embarrassed: