Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Lifeboats => Topic started by: JoJoElbe on January 31, 2022, 01:06:58 pm
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Hi all,
what a 'big' subject line and I don't even manage to get images into this post. :o ... finally.... dropdown worked... not really, now I can't post it... so images are attached ...
My latest work was refurbishing my first model (built 2016), the german motor-lifeboat LÜBECK II (Sievers model kit).
The LÜBECK II and sisters were 13m long, my 1:20 scale 67cm (incl. bow fender). -- I'll post a summary about her in the next weeks.
My plan was to build next the bigger lifeboat of that time, the HINDENBURG IV (17m) but then, as life goes ....
I watched to many videos on youtube, a lot with rnli boats. I had a few discussions with other model builder here
in germany which are rnli 'afficinados' and finally I got the virus (no, not corona).
Today the Sarik Hobbies Tyne class hull and plans arrived. Send from a nice fellow down in bavaria, who bought that 'just in case' before the brexit.
My LÜBECK II inside the hull of a tyne class:
(see attached images)
The hull should be 1:18 but it seems smaller. I hope I can make a 1:20 version out of it, even if it's 2-3cm too long. 1:20 would fit to my other ships and fit my experiences
what will work and what not in constructing and printing or building parts.
I just copied the plan (in pieces...) and will try to make up a copy of the deck and check the scale of the hull tonight.
Then I may come up with tons of questions here 8)
The transport box will be the boat house and for the slideway I -- already have some ideas.
At the moment my favorite boathouses + slipway are St. Davies (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/St_Davids_Lifeboat_Station), Douglas and Wicklow. Personally I have no relation, but somehow I like the Wicklow station.
Just would need to 'cut' the houses a bit so that it will be just the main boat hall at the end.
Well, enough for now, I need a coffee.Have fun,
Joerg
P.S.: Appologize for funny english.P.S.2: I'll read the build report here in this forum carefully!
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Your English is very good and good luck with your build.
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Your English is very good and good luck with your build.
thank's, could be worse, I guess ok2
Another big THANK YOU to Larry (TheLongBuild) who was digging deep in his archives to get me an old Model Boats article.
I did some homwork: the plan of '5/8 to the foot' seems to be 1:19 (translated (https://2img.net/i/fa/i/smiles/icon_cool.gif) ), I've scanned the plan in pieces and glued them together so that I have an option to cut out what I want without destroying the original plan.
The deck on the hull seem to fit quite well, stern, sides and front agree quite good, I just have to add a cm somewhere, which shouldn't be that problem.
<<3 images attached>>
just my little wharf is too small ;)
<< image attached>>
But I recently generated more space for hulls up to 1m.
Anyways, after some research and looking through the facebook side of the Douglas station, I think I found my favorite. It will be the Sir William Hillary (the name rules, I guess).
Tricky slipway but the size of the boathouse is moderate and there are several photos from the inside to build just a bit of the interior (it still has to serve as a transport box).
That's all for now,stay healthy,Joerg
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Hi,I'm looking for propeller and motor infos.... so far I'm in the range of 6000 rpm and a 30mm 4 blade prop with 0.9 gradient/slope .... (Raboesch A- or D-type)would more love to use a 35-40mm 4 blade prop---
I guess both the guys who built the 1:19/18/20 model are not around, but maybe someone has an idea what they've used. The 1986 article talked a bout monoperm-super motor and 4 blade props (unknown specifications).
Best, Joerg
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Hi,
In your search for build info did you check "Trucker's" rendition of his Tyne literally just a few posts below you?
I have had quite a few PS hull mouldings from Sarik and they are close or close-enough that a general modeller would expect. I had a PS moulding from a suppier I won't mention where parts just didn't mke sense but there was so much hassle obtaining the kit I'm not surprised. I also had a few GRP mouldings -and I can't think of any that were exact on the suppied plans. Easy to fix though!
Wish you well with your build! I keep on looking at Sievers kits the crane barge I always wanted is long gone!
Rich
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The Tyne Class boats had a design top speed of 18 knots. I hope this is helpful in choosing power levels of motor/propellor performance.
Your 1:20 Scale model will have a scale speed of 4.63 m.p.h. at top speed. You will need to convert this figure into kilometres per hour speed.
I hope the above is helpful in making choices.
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hi,starting with 16.7 or so, it was indeed 18 knots at the end (did ever anyone measure the highest when they were fully euiped in action?), I'll make 20 out of it ... 'running away velocity' {-)
I found a few excel sheets to calculate, but I was more looking for a working system, which were presented here. But I found no details (so copy&paste won't work :embarrassed: )
The raw parameters are clear, I think....Motor size 540, rpm per V ~ 500-700 (I plan 9.9V) 35-40mm prop 3-4 blade. For a 40mm prop there's probably just 1mm left and right. Therefore I'll first build the side keels and then check the space again. Accu I could use 6.6V, ),9V (2S,3S LiFePo) or 7.2V NiMH, fortunately I have already two similar LiFePo controlers in other boats, that way I could check early if the final chosen configuration may be too strong for 9.9V and still have the option to try it with 7.2V ..... actually it's "xxxxx" what I write, the controllers work for LiFePo and NiMH (some auto control down when not enough power left etc. functions) ... nevertheless, I can use the ones I have for trials.
When I refurbished my first boat and exchanged a drive shaft with a slightly flexible coupling and not 100% aligned motor-prop system with an almost rigid motor-mount-drive-shaft-system (a coupling with hard rubber) the same motor+prop gave a slight better velocity and almost no noise (well, no extra noise).That kind I will install here too (Gundert starre Welle by Bauer Modelbau (https://www.bauer-modelle.com/epages/Bauer_Uwe46269592.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/Bauer_Uwe46269592/Categories/%22Schiffsantriebe%2C%20Spezial-%20und%20Wellenantriebe%22/Wellenantrieb/%22Gundert%20starre%20Antriebsanlagen%22/gleitgelagert), in Germany, sorry -- they cut any usefull length). I'm not 100% sure from all the photos I looked at, but I think the tube around the shaft (Stevenrohr in german) is going outsite the hull to the holder (right before the prop). There is no free shaft in the space between hull and holder !?
At the end one can calculate a lot, the right velocity is the one which fit's best for the eyes.
Anyways, waiting for the weekend. First a stand and correct/clear the upper rim of the hull.Have fun,Joerg
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Hi,
wow, some orders take 2 weeks and other 3day incl. delivery.... My wife looked out od the window: " There are big packets coming for you..."
Me: "Ok, I'll take over cooking today..."
Well, several things fo a different project arrived, most material I plan to use for Deck and more from the Tyne. 3 different profiles for making the sprayrail, a pot of yellow --maybe too yellow --, both motors and both props, they seem a bit too small. Nevertheless, after driving tests I can always replace them.
Yesterday I had the luck for some laser cutting. So I made up all upper parts of the ribs (spanten in german) to get the bow of the deck. Also the side keels were printed twice and in parts, as they were longer that the cutarea. They wer cut in 2mm and 1mm PS material (leftover). In the bow I've affed up several pieces to make the front lower kel part rigid to get both the holes for fastening the boat in the Boathouse (photo will follow later). Later that part will be finally filled with long time (60min) epoxy.
Slow progress ...
Attached photos:
1. Laser cut stuff, unfortunately one has to get rid of the black burnt material... filthy job.
2. Some parts so far
3: One of the lifeboat-man resin printed (bought the stl files) and the yellow...
Hav fun and a nice wekend,
Joerg
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Hi,
got a bit progress over the weekend. Both sliding and propeller protection keels are glued with UHU-Allplast, including 3 brass sticks on each side glued with superglue. It still need thin stripes of ps (1-1.5mm) to fill geaps and enlarge the contact surface.
Then I made a stand for the building time (later the boat will stay in the boathouse). It may look a bit high and quite long but as you can see, my space is limited and this larger stand covers the hull (and later the railing too) against, let's simply call it 'the yard'...
A few more people werde printed in resin and I made a first attemt for a window, the outher frame is 0.5mm thick and the screws are just 0.2mm. Printed absolutely flat, so I would say, I found my parameters for the windows. Just have to make the up in FreeCAD ...
This week the propeller shaft's etc. will arrive.
Best regards,Joerg
Attached photos:
1: The front keel is filled with various PS stripes.
2: Sliding keels glued
3. large stand
4. resin printed window (26mmx26mm somehow...)
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Hi,reading, reading, reading + searching for photos....Just found out that my windows miss a tiny layer ....
I've buit the trim plates this weekend. First I thought of using brass but then I found some leftover hinges in one of my boxes. The fit very well in size.
The hull lower stern was cut and I build a kind of 'step' for the trim plates. These are made of 1mm PS + 0.75mm PS with cutout for the hinges and hnges glued + 0.5mm PS to habe a smooth surface. In the hinge aread I drilled two holes and glued a stick of PS inside. That should prevent the hinge part for slipping (even though they are glued). The hinge axes stay outside and the plates werde stick through openings to the inside. There they are screwed to a piece of wood. As long as the 'hydraulic' parts are not final they remain just screwed. Later they will be glued with 2K epoxy and the whole inset will be sealed with 2K epoxy (60min).
The first upper frame also has been glued. A second one, will come soon and then I can fine-cut the upper stern.
Photos:
1. wide movenment range
2. hinges and PS sticks
3. fromthe inside
Best,
Joerg
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Hi jojoElbe
looks nice, do you intend for the trim tabs to be controlled from your transmitter via a servo inside the hull
Trucker
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Hi Trucker, I've not finally decided. I don't know if you need to change it while driving or just before, depending on wave conditions. But it's planned to be movable (trimmable) either manually or by transmitter.Best,
joerg
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Hi,before aranging anything on the stern I've added a second deckbow (raw in the position of frame A), on the two I've fitted a deckplate reaching the stern. Then it was easy to cut the hull top rim of the stern. Overall height in the center from bottom to top awas about 129,5 mm, very close to the plan.
J
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OK, now I'm in the middle of the trim plates construction.
First the safety grid for the hydraulics/mechanics of the trim plates was made, 1.5mm brass and normal soldering.
It's a bit thicker than scale, first I haven't had any 1.3mm rod flying around and the close to sclae size 1mm is simply to thin. Why? Because I'm really bad in driving boats backwards.
I've drilled holes into the stern an placed them, but i guess at the end I have to correct a bit. It's just for the developement of a working trim plates system. For that I placed two pieces of bowden cable (Bowdenzug in german) and mounted them to the plates. In general this can work. If I mount them inside the hull on a rigid plate, I could move the trim plates up and down by movin the plate up and down. Well, so far for today, Still have to think about that.
Best regards and have a nice weekend after the storms (here it's soon reaching it's maximum),Joerg
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Hi,
today I started to align motors and shafts. I wanted to mount both rudder. Which at least were kind of finalized for mounting. And then my wife said she'll leave for a coffee afternoon to a friend.
Well.... one could ...
So I picked up tools, alu-profiles from the attic, searched for som plywood plate, found a perfect one and brought everything down to our 'dining' table. I started the computer opened side views of boathouse and boat started to measure, 12deg slipway angle.... length and broadth... from google earth 19mx7.9m without the fron extension - roughly .... the boathouse/transport-box should not be longer than 1m - that fits. For the width I had 2 photos wher I used the width of the boat to guess the size of the boathouse... of course with different results but not so far away from goole earth. And then I looked at the plywood... too a ruler and... 38cm, great, plus 2x 0.6mm for construction profiles and something for the walls - fits too. So I don't have to saw too much.
Then ... saw alu profiles .... drill holes ... mount the profiles .... poop, the 'other starboard' ... dismount and mout again ...
finally after roughly 4 hrs: Attached photo 1: The battlefield!
a bit of hoovering -- no one should go bare foot tonight....
and photo 2: side view (the motor shaft mount help is still on)
and photo 3: almost can't wait to go to the pond!
Have a nice sunday, I think I have to make a larger hoovering session tomorrow.
Best,
Joerg
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Hi,
so, ...
I've made my sketches from the plans and compared it to photos... well ... details are different, especially the windows. After I bought some large sheat of 4mm plywood, I could cut the sides of the house.
The small extension with the doors needed to be set up, therefore the front supports had to be shiftet a bit back and some extension had to be made.
Then I wanted to cut out the openings for the windows. Tricky part, as plan, my real size and photos differ a lot. Finally I found my places and becaus the row of windows in the upper part were grouped 3+3 because of the middle support of the sides, I also had to move these 0.5cm ...
After I had sketches for the windows I had to cut them out. Startet with a proxxon drill and a thin circular saw .... straight lines??? ...
Today I found, that I have a proxxon jigsaw too (the cheaper one, got it together with other stuff from ebay and didn't use it since then).
That at least went better although wood and straight cuts and me don't really fit together....
I hope a thin frame from the outside will cover most of the odd cuts.
The windows I've set up with Freecad and printed them in PLA. I'm pretty sure, net week I'll find a high resolution image of these windows (https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/Smileys/Tug/grin.gif)
A piece of acrylic (or whatever) glas together with the inner frame will be glued from the inside to all single opening far later.
Got a few problem with this post, I try it without photos.J
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And here are the photos:
1. extension in progress
2. side view (+ a box for a springer tug 'push-barge'.)
3. larger window, with inspection from the inside
4. row of smaller windows, the will be connected by tiny 0.5mm stripes of PS later
It's still developement in progress...
Best, Joerg
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Hi all,
after the halfway ugly looking wooden part I've played a bit with CAD today (I'm still a beginner). The slipway will have many repeating elements therefore having a 3D sketch to test ideas may help a lot. It's far from ready but I think the sketch already looks quite nice and shows that even a complicated looking slipway as the Douglas one can be buit relatively easy and basic to be build (once the sketch is ready, I hope).
There will be a strong connection over the width by a flatband of aluminum on 3 places. Connecting or dap filling plates are still missing. As I wrote, it's just a first setup.
Have a nice week,
Joerg
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Hi All,
the idea developed a bit further and I got the chance to get a round of laser cut (took the laser about 2.5hrs). With the cross members ('Querträger') and the alu U-profiles I could play a little and fast found the problem how to get the cross members upright in the U-profile with 12deg gradient. I found an easy solution: printing two half blocks each with a gradient of 12deg on on site. So the 'ends' of the cross members are always perpendicular to the U-profile upper surface. That way any distance part can be just cut straight.
Same idea for the left-right connectors (not yet done) and luckily quite fast with 3D (well fast work for me but printing took a few hours).
Finally I assembled a test part and I'm quite happy with that. Next would be to arrange connecting plates etc.The white stuff are Teflon stripes, rolls are missing.
Best,Joerg
Images:
1. Laser cut delivery
2. 3D printed parts
3. the slipway idea as it is now
4. detail
5.detail
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Hi, I had a bike puzzle over the weekend. It's somehow like model boat building. For changing tires it takes 20min and for just mounting some tiny stuff it takes hours.... (first you have to find the parts... then to understand them .... and then fit them to your kind of bike as they were built for something else...)
Nevertheless I found some time for the boathouse. I've decided earlier to fake the 'trapezoidal sheet metal' outside walls by using plywood and wooden strips....
So first cut 1m strips to 24cm long parts, finally 160 were needed, cutting until the bursa ('Schleimbeutel') in the shoulder were glowing.
Then glue them onto the sidewalls, parallel! -- for that I 3d-printed two masks which fiitted 4 strips each. One for the upper part and one for the lower. In addition I marked the playwood with vertical lines to find out early enough if I'm running out of course.
It worked, always glued three in one go, the 4th was the overlap with the group before. Each day 80 pieces, took roughly 2 hrs every day.
I hope I'll find sime time for the boat again next week.Have a nice week,
Joerg
Photos:
1. Cutting (just the first set)
2. work in progress (on the left the white 3d-printed masks
3. 2 times 80 ...
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Hi,
not so many news on the boat, just a bit fiddeling. Weather was too nice, so I stayed downstairs. Anyways, both long sides of the boathouse are mounted now. Whereas one of them stays always mounted, the other has the option to take it off quite fast, for exhibitions or shows (once the interior of the boathouse will be ready... ...2030...).
For the slipway I got some metal grid and rough ideas to fill the gaps. From this trial I will later move the position of the cutouts in the cross member ('Querträger') a bit deeper and add a hole for a threaded rod on the left side, the U-profile will cover that as on the right side. All small holders on the threaded rods will get slightly new dimensions.
The stair plate on the left will move further to the middle and the styrodur pieces on top of the center gaps will later be replaced by something else to imitate cement.
At the moment I'm waiting for the second set of cross members and printing of the small holders on the threaded rods is running.
For now, have a nice week,
Joerg
The pictures:
1. Both sides extended an mounted
2. the mounting/glueing help for the strips.3. +4. Gap filling idea for refinement of the cross members.
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:o
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Hi Charlie,I've watched the videos, that's really cool. I may still need a few years to reach that state. ok2
On the videos you showed also recovery, what kind of motor did you use for the winch?A long slipway! ... I'm also planning up to 2,4m.Best,Joerg
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Hi, the boathouse got a bit color on the outside, still just the left and right side. Window frames have been designed in CAD, printed from PLA and painted. As window glass I use a 0.5mm PETG plate, it's much easier to cut than acrylic or plexi-glass. Once they are assembled and mounted I'll come up with the photos and process description.
After finishing and repairing other projects for a meeting I started the first part of the slipway.
Basically it was done as the test before, just with different U-profiles at the sides and thus all small holders on each side of the holes in the cross members ('Querträger') had to be slighly changed and reprinted. And ist's kind of a final mount.
First the Metal grid was folded at the ends, so that one could mount two of them through the opening in the cross member:
This gave a distance of 3.5cm between two cross members. For 5 threaded rods it's cutting 5 of them per cross member.
An awfull amount of work cutting them without a machine.
So on the next image several steps can be found side by side:
First the cross members (white) needed to be cleaned from the laser burn on the cut surfaces.... thats just friday afternoon to evening for 20 of them ...
The small holders on each side of the holes in the cross members were glued with Uhu Allplast and fixed with screws. After a while srews were dismounted and the holes were redrilled to get rid of leftover glue.
Then a cross member was pushed onto 5 threaded rods then 5 distant rods followed and so on, 20 times. Printing tome for the red part per cross member 1hr6min.
That took the whole weekend and a few hours the last days.
Finally the first 80cm part was done, 80cm because they will fit beneath the bouthouse floor.
Here you can see from the side how the small red block manage to get the cross members upright whil the slipway has a 12deg gradient.
well, it looks already great, even though a lot of things are still missing.
While glueing the red blocks the side ones were already fittet to the U profiles. It was the an easy step to mount the outer U profiles:
Still 1,4m to go ..... (https://2img.net/i/fa/i/smiles/icon_geek.png)
Anyways, I now have a part which I can fidlle with the mounting to the boathouse for slip and for transport as well as building the flip mechanism for the second part.
The middel profile I'll hopefull build the next weekend.
Have fun,
Joerg
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here are the images, sorry
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Hi,250 screws later (or so) ... :}
The slipway part I got also the inner profile, the main slide profile mounted. It's not directly conneted to the polystyrol parts. Insted I have horizontal U-profilels on 3 positions connection the outer and inner alu profiles. (image 1+3)
These later will be used for a stand or mounting the slipway to the ground. For that I've printed spacers with 12deg gradient on one side, so the U-Profiles will be parallel to the ground. image 2
The inner profile, got some openings (many holes drilled and then used a file (?) to make it rectangular. Each opening got a cylindrical roll mounted, roughly as on the original slipway. To get better sliding a 3mm teflon (PTFE) piece was mounted on both sides and on the bottome between the rolls (nor really needed but as part II will have no rolls it looks similar). Finally I put the hull onto the slipway and maked the position and width of the slide plates for the side keels. These were of 2mm thick teflon stripes. Screwed into the spacers (red) on the threaded rod. These were printed with 80% filling so that the M1 'sheet metal screws' found grip. image 3
So for now part I of the slipway is finished. The metal grid fillings and plates are still missing, but there is no time left for them now.
It's just 80cm short and the 4 second movie has a slipway with less than 12deg gradien, but even the empty hull with just the motors in slides down.
https://youtu.be/GKiaBRLyjV0 (https://youtu.be/GKiaBRLyjV0)
Have a nice sunday,Joerg
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Exceptional !
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Hi,
got a week vakation. Building models can be nice, but developing the stuff can be pretty hard.
No idea how many hole were drilled twice and how often ideas were 'deleted', turned, bent etc.
I have no power left for a long detailed description but in short:
Changes on teh boathouse: The upright profiles got extended about 4cm, still fits on top of the closet, and now I have a bit more space to pack the folded slipway.
I added a plywood plate to get the slipway in and out easier.
Slipway folding mechanism: Used simple flat connection angle (steel), cut one 'arm'/side short. Pot them on top of each other, drilled a 4mm hole through them. Bent on of them 'twiece, so that the can work without jamming. (see photo 3) In addition I put a square profile in the U-Profiles for better stability.
A standsystem is still missing and the Tyne is still open at the keel end.
The photos show:
1. packed boathouse and slipway
2. unpacked
3. simple foliding mechanism
4. mounted slipway
And two films:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BqGKqpFGVY (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BqGKqpFGVY)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bFO9232sSlk (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bFO9232sSlk)
Works without weight in the boat!OK, I'm donen now, need to rest ok2
Best,Joerg
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Hi,
motor, controller and accu are just put in for the test, they are not optized.
My Tyne on the slipway into the water, once it's redy it can be great.... unfortunately it's still a long way to go (https://2img.net/i/fa/i/smiles/icon_cool.gif)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Jr_CUHBNj4 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Jr_CUHBNj4)
Best,Joerg
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Hi,from the video before it's clear that rudder, motors and propellers are mounted. For a germanwide forum meeting I prepared a lot (as you can see above) but had no time to write and even forgot to take photos of some steps. Here are some of the earlier works:
Image 1.Windows, the window frames were prepared in CAD and printed 3d, window glass is PETG, easy to cut. Painted with primer and red spray and white by brush.
image2+3:
inside and outside the correct positioning for glueing the stern tubes with distance holders. The inner stayed as extra mounting stabilisation
well, and the I found something on the table:Image 4 : stern tube holders....
nevertheless, I didn't want to take away the high amaount of epoxy used for glueing the tubes... so I took a polystyrol tube over the stern tube aoutside, cut 2 long holes in it, same in the hull bottom and from the inside I glued two pieces of PS to hold the stern tubes. (image 5)
Tubes for the rudders were mounted with 3mm inside, the rudder shafts have only 2mm, a bowden tube serves as intermediate, everything fit's strong but still good to turn. In case I really need 3mm rudder shafts, I can take out the bowden tube and exchange the rudders.So with propeller it looks like that now (image 6)
J
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this weekend it had to go on somehow. To much work and family business over the last 2 weeks.
So I had laser cuts of the upper frames (deckside), unfortunately 1 and 1.5mm ps so first I had to glue them, the find the right position. Not that they were not marked in the plan but for the right position relaed to the deck openings.
Making the long story short, I moved one of them in the right and 3 oft them in the wrong direction. I know why I didn't work on the trim plate movement system.....
Anyways, the frames were glued on each side, 1mm below the hulls upper rim. Then I added a 5mm square PS profile between them and later on each side an extra 2,5mm square profile through the frames from bow to stern.
Then I decided to cut out the first parts of the deck. 1mm PS should be enough with the frame construct below. On that I layed the coutout of the plan with openings cut and frames marked (I cut smaller openings in the deck to match the wron corrected frames).
So now the man part of the deck is on (just with tesa film), something to look at. Still many things to do before it will be glued.Have anice week,Joerg
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Hi and some recent update from this week:
my colleague who can do the laser cutting soon leaver for holiday, and then me, so until late august no chance to cut. Therefore I made a quick sketch (from the plan) of the deckhouse parts. They were often not symmetric!
Image1: No time, maybe different polystyrene? -- the cut had more burn dirt than usual.
Image 2: I made a stabilyzing construction for the inside and used revell liquid (contacta professionell) as glue. Which, this time, worked much better than UHU Allplast.
After a while I checked the deckhouse and found the roof flat. The supports were too thin. So I put it roof down with the sides on some boxes, and then put a lot of that glue around the supports added som aluminum blocks as weight in the middle and the next morning, the roof of the deckhouse wasn't flat anymore. Maybe 1mm to much bow, but who cares.
Image 3:
Still a lot to do, but it could have been worse. (the roof was cut too braod so that it fit's in any case)
Have a nice wekkend,Joerg
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Hi,
well, at home is a bit 'drama' at the moment, not the time to do special things more jumping from one part to the other without finishing one.Nevertheless, still kind of progress.
I started with a part of the windows set, unfortunately the plan is wrong and several photos show, that on each side of the deckhouse there are 4 different windows.... well ... what to say, ther sure is a reason for that but building rougly 40 boats there would be reasons enough to build it with only 2 different shapes.
I also struggled with freecad a bit and it crashed while doing the non-rectangle window frames. I gave up for now, too much computing already, but the square and rectangular ones were deeloped and printed. The screws have a height of about 0.06mm. Which can be seen on the boat, I show a testprint with and without colour on it earlier.
(https://files.homepagemodules.de/b623996/f16t3931p67647n2_DIkdevYp.jpg)
The next were printed staying horizonal (3-4mm above ground), that also worked.
Here are two images which show earlier build time:
The Deck framework:
(https://files.homepagemodules.de/b623996/f16t3931p67647n3_SzIQDhvk.jpg)
and the filled back end of the main keel:
(https://files.homepagemodules.de/b623996/f16t3931p67647n4_biCFvQtE.jpg)
I had some leftover (well bought two kinds used only one) bumper gum in D shape, 6mm height and 5mm weight. Could work that way. From the plan it should be 7x6mm ... hard to find.
(https://files.homepagemodules.de/b623996/f16t3931p67647n5_ywOIocUT.jpg)
on the next you can also see the rudder construction from top
(https://files.homepagemodules.de/b623996/f16t3931p67647n6_WhptazUd.jpg)
finally I've found two simila ventilators for motor cooling. Made an s-like support to glue into the open keel. Not glued because I still need some round cooling fin part to stick on the motors. (https://files.homepagemodules.de/b623996/f16t3931p67647n7_uciFVwdL.jpg)
Next I mounted a platfporm for the 9.9V 3S LiFePO power source. Just sticked with 4 dots of UHU-Allplast, once all electronics is selected and there it will be glued with epoxy.
(https://files.homepagemodules.de/b623996/f16t3931p67647n8_oaeJYAMS.jpg)
on top of it, for now, the box with the sabertooth 12A dual controller:
(https://files.homepagemodules.de/b623996/f16t3931p67647n9_aEHCYkWS.jpg)
That's it for now, I hopa I manage a few additions to the deckhouse.
Have a nice sunday,
Joerg
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Hi,
it's just hot outside...(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/fRPkK)
ok, this was on the sunny side, just sun from aside. Must have been even higher when direct in the sun...
Anyways, on our terrace its 36,x degC in the shadow. Hamburg airport juts reached 37.7 C and still has 3hrs left to rise.... looks like the beat the oveall record of 37,7C... in the city center it's 40deg by now, but for the official counting concrete floor etc. doesn't count.
Nevertheless, no good weather to put PLA prints on the terrace at the moment (https://2img.net/i/fa/i/smiles/fresse.png)
I've printed most of the windows over the last days, resin, they got some primer sprayed on it yesterday, that stuff was dried as it reached the surface (almost).
There are still some mistakes in the inner corners of some frames and the front ones have to be resized (there is a difference between boat and plan which I try to get over).
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/fR3zo)
Yeah, speaking of the plan.... when doing the cutsketch for the laser I did it in a rush, now I wanted to build the roofwindow.... f*** .... there is none... so I used the cutout part and glued it back to the roof. Still needs a fine sanding but probably tomorrow when it's colder.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/fRNem)
Well, tomorow temperatures should get back to normality...
Best,
Joerg
P.S.: I doubt that the images work, so here they are again:
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Hi Joerg...hope you are enjoying the warm weather %)
So the way I see the motor cooing fans is drawing external ambient air through the fan, over the motor, then exhausting the marginally warmer air within the vessels hull
I understand Lifeboats are designed to be 'shall we say 'watertight' & this can be a problem, as with any air cooling system relies in an unobstructed flow of large volumes of air
One consideration would be to reverse the direction of the fan flow [you must flip them over as you must not simply change the polarity] and have the fan draw air from within the boat through the slots in the motor endcap then up from the motor body then exhaust that air to atmosphere
Installing the fin pack in the current format as shown will not help as the warmth from the motor is drawn to the aluminium fin tube around the motor, only to be blown back over the motor by the fan >>:-( however, cooling fins would assist if the air flow were reversed
Either way, the volume of air & the need for watertight integrity are difficult factors to manage...if you have a watertight boat, the air will progressively warm and provide ZERO cooling
As a totally different approach could be a pumped closed loop of water cooling around each motor, then connected to return dual length of tubing under the hull so the sea water provides the temperature differential effect, this way you can have a totally watertight vessel
Seawater under hull cooling is common in many Classes of vessels...smaller Traweler types are typical
Derek
[PS...I have a pair of 25x25mm fans that I plan to build into a heat exchanger taking progressively heating boiler water though the heat exchanger and blowing ambient air to the hotter water tubes which will be mounted in a small assembly under the horizontal cylinders of my paddle wheeler engine & so hopefully preheat the engine & so minimise any hydraulic lock on startup]
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hi Derek,well, warm weather, I'm from Hamburg, everything above 25degC is a pain 8) It beated the 30 year old record yesterday, the comparable station got 38,5deg C and a newer one came to 40,1degC. Just for a day and luckily the wind direction and speed changed in the late afternoon to 'north sea' wind, in one hour it dropped almost 10deg then.
The watertightness of the boat is indeed a point. I don't plan to drive it in the worst weather as the Tyne will always come with the boathouse. I also plan to make the door to the deckhouse to open. And at the back deckhouse there is a 'box' over the width of the upper edge on the backside, which I can also use as air in/out. Both should be safe against the 'splash' from the slipway and spraywater from the front.
Capsizing is not planned, it's never planned I guess (see the image attached).
Changing the direction of the flow is possible, both motors are sitting between the opening for the deckhouses. I have no clue if I really need the cooling. Calculations show that it may get quite warm running 10minutes in full speed, which I usually don't do. (for wave sliding and such things I have a different boat)These calculations for a different boat show similar problems, which I never had, probably because I usually don't drive full speed for long (I should start sailing, I guess).
The vents will also have a separate switch, so either full or nothing. I have to find out.
The active water cooling would be an alternative. I'm happy that you mentioned 'active' cooling, as the inactive, just by driving, water cooling is often questionable.Your idea would just work with bag-like patches, tubes under the hull are good for fishing vessels but not for lifeboats. The original of the capsized model in the attached image has only that internal water cooling, it was especially made for shallow waters and muddy or sandy ground.
What kind of pump is needed for that? Something like a bow thruster, or jet just in small?
Best,Joerg
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Joerg....about a year ago, we had a English Member [jet engine engineer working in the Middle East??] who was going down the road of fast electric designs [excellent carbon fibre watertight builds] with brushless electric drives and was trying to resolve motor cooling
One of the issues he had was the high salinity of the local waters precluded more conventional scoop water cooling so if I remember he was using an internal pumped closed loop
I'll spend 10 minutes & see if I can find a link ..... %) .....try this ....good reading from the builder.............
https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,67449.0.html (https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,67449.0.html)
Derek
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Hi Derek
thanks, it's a nice discussion to read and learn from it. Allthough I can't see an image with the water tanks. The mentioned radiator outside the hull, in german rescue boats called grid coolers. They have an insert to the hull in this there is this grid of water tubes (or plates) to cool on the outside: (http://seenot.spuelsaum.de/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/secretarius-IMG_2763-1500.jpg)
http://seenot.spuelsaum.de/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/secretarius-IMG_2763-1500.jpg (http://seenot.spuelsaum.de/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/secretarius-IMG_2763-1500.jpg)
These days they have it as second, independent colling system. My earlier example had only that, but the difference is 54 to 380hp (PS).
For now, I will keep the vent idea. If I finally need more cooling, the Tyne wouldn't be the first boat where I cut the underwater hull... after the model was ready.
J
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hi joerg
the build is coming along nicely how ever i have a couple of question, 1, are you building to the plan or are you going to build her to the slightly newer version as most people seem to including my self,, 2, i see in one of your build pictures a pair of brass a frames for the prop shafts but you do seem to have fitted them, you appear to have used plastic, my concern is the plastic joints may not hold once under load, mine did exactly that so had a big job replacing them... ;)
Trucker
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Hi Trucker,
the brass parts are from the 'me idiot' effect.... I have that more often (see opening in the deckhouse roof). I glued the steven tubes and forgot these brass frames. So I had to invent something to fix the steven tube after it was glued to the hull. The plastic is thicker (1.5mm) than the brass and the plates stick on both sides into openings of the hull and plastic tube. They were glued with Uhu-Allplast and over that a line of superglue (gel). That should stand and avoid vibrations. I'll have a longer test in early september.
Building: I use the plan and all photos I could get, not all in high resolution and many are wideangle shots. I have no measurements from any boat, so I have to guess quite often from the photos. If I have an (almost) parallel view, I can put it in the back of the plan part (in Adobe Illustrator - luckily I got that at work) and correct the pan or make an intermediate where I can live with.
My big advantage (exept for the built reports) is, here in germany are only very few people who have a clue how it should look like. {-) In opposite to our german rescue cruisers...
Currently I'm working on an idea how to fold the mast and 5 antennas by rc, quite tricky and at the end I may use some dirty tricks to 'let it look what it not is' :police:
Also I have to set up the winch for early september.... and family holiday is coming too... with lifeboat day in germany, maybe a dutch one too.
Best,Joerg
P.S.: I found a 8x8m D shape foam rubber for the boat.
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Hi, in all this chaos at home I managed to get a day for my project.
One thing needed for test rides is a closed deck. So I added some 2,5mm square PS profiles to the suports for the deck where needed and the I decided to install urgency opening options on the deck. The rudder section lies beneath the deck, I can change servo and reajust everything from the big opening, but one never knows. So I made a cutout for that part. It will later be glued and covered with paint so that you won't see it but in worst case I just need to open that smal plate and not destroy the back deck.
Similar for the motors. The original boat has two maintenance plates with about a million screws. Beneath these I made two cutouts which later will be covered by my probably printed maintenance plates. Again the motos can be taken of or exchanged without these openings, but ... one never knows.
I may do a bit 'Süllrand'/ coaming rim? The frame around the two deck openenigs where the deckhouses will stay on.
And soon order a smoke generator, not for all times but when starting the motors in the boathouse and urgent full spead ahead....
That's it for now, best,
Joerg
Ah, the image:
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Hi, I needed a life test.
So I put together 2 Krick Max Power 500 and 3S LiFePO 9,9V.
5min full speed and the motors were only handwarm, clear below 50degC.
The two vents were just put on top, they may not have helped as the deck ist still missing, they may get more importent when the deck is closed (there will be a small opening in on of the deckhouses to let the warm air out, if needed).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cr3fYPD4zmU (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cr3fYPD4zmU)
I had only little water in the tub, if it would have been half fulll, the Tyne would have jumped out.
So, after some fun, I'll go back to the winch now.
Best, Joerg
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Hi all,
next weekend is a nice swimming pool meeting in north germany.
My TYNE has to go there. The slipway has no progress since early june but if you let the boat slide down the slipway, you should also be able to winch it up. I just found the company which built that winsch and asked for help, but they are on summer vacation at the moment. So I decided to built a raw lookalike model for winching the boat up and for further tests. The original has so much details, noch chace to do that over a weekend.
Motor with gear gives a few turns per minute at 6V, came from the 'bay'. Running the whole stuff with a BEC (3A) and a double ralais switch with end stop options. I'm swithing the winch with one of the sticks (throttle etc.) wich works quite well for me, because everytime I leave the stick it selfcenters and the ralais switches off.
The winch parts were fast built, not exactly symmetric holes on front and back side, I mounted one of the side plates in opposite way so it looks a bit odd, but it doesn't matter for the test.
OK, enough words, here it is:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9KjthFhHO4A (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9KjthFhHO4A)
I'm quite happy, the velocity is quite ok, motor and winch easily managed winching up (did it several times, nothing got warm).
Many things to do still, maybe I find time this week for a better connection to the boat.
Have a nice week,
Joerg
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Wow! That is a fantastic job you've done on that winch Joerg, with a pretty good speed as well - well done :-))
Ray.
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Hi all,
'Port Aukrug' (swimming pool action this time with more than 500 model boats - a few images on my website (http://modellwerft.spuelsaum.de/hafentage-aukrug-2022/), in german, but the gallery doesn't need any words) was coming closer and time was running away.... I gues most of you know that feeling....
So I take off one day to finish preparations on the tyne as much as possible. So, what did I do:
- got the oil out of the shaft system and replaced it with high speed grease
- made a box for the front battery pack (for later functions and motor vents)
- glued the vent holder + epoxy glue
- added protective grid for the trim plate mechanics
- glued all thre bollard cores on the bottom of the hull in an extra part polystyren + epoxy glue (that way you can later hang the boat on the bollards without destroying the deck)
- as improvisation for winching up I made a Y-brass holder to be put over the bollards. That holden is at the end of the winch rope and I use a bamboo stick with a clamp to put it over the bollards.
- added the big sprayrail --- didi it alone which was a mistake... I'll take it off an redo it later
- moiunted all deck parts with rubber glue and masking tape
- drive and steering test in bath tub, everything fine!
So I went there and even while mountig the whole setup people started to come and look and ask, quite often I heard something like ".. I saw it in the forum..." -- ok german forum but nevertheless for you in your country it's sure similar.
Then I could start testing, learning by doing. I hate calculations and theory.
The power of the two Krick mas power 500 with an 3s 9,9v LiFePO was fantastic. A bit too fast but I hope with full weight the will fit perfectly.
Slipway worked as before, many things to be replaced or updated, but that's all I knew before. Similar for the winch, it stayed 8 hrs until the little, fast made, driver?? (the part that sits on the motor axis and is connected to the wich drum) broke. Nothing serious,
The steering was more of a problem, I changed this and then in the settings on the controler and on the transmitter and reseiver, until ... a nice modeller mate said "just swap the poles on the motor..." ..... f*** .....
The easiest of all solutions and IT WORKED! The boat almost turns on a table, getting backwards on the slipway became easy (I still have to learn better steering).
Over I'm really happy how everything worked out and how large the interest already was.
Here is a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RR55BXxMsy8 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RR55BXxMsy8)
Anyways, at the end there are some photos.
Best regards,Joerg
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Can certainly see why people came by to ask questions; that boathouse and slipway is a thing I haven't seen before.
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Can certainly see why people came by to ask questions; that boathouse and slipway is a thing I haven't seen before.
a few models in great britain but hard to find in germany. Boathouses and slipways we know but releasing the boat for running down the slipway is something new!
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That all pretty impressive Joerg......well done :-)) ..............Derek
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Hi all,
the deck is off again. Meanwhile I managed to get the smoker/steamer running:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FfY1YJucQac (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FfY1YJucQac)
This is a steam genarator from Uwe Fleer, a BIG version with double set of heating resistor. Copper tubes have 12mm diameter on the outside. More or less the size of the exhausts.
I used a controller from him too, choose the manual setting, means full spead and heat. 12W, 7,2V
There is also the option to get control via the motor speed + finetuning options but tha't for later, hen everything is mounted and the exhaust flaps are mounted.
Have fun,
Joerg
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Hi,
besides smoker, exhaust flaps and other things I'm building the rear deckhouse. It's not so easy from the plan and as on many other points, the plan doesn't show the final boat.
The ain part is built by some support parts and walls. The rounding is made by using a 1mm polystyren sheet an cutting lines with 1-1.5mm distance into it. That way one can easy bent it and glue it. Of course some filler is needed afterwards.
(photo 1)
Extensions towards the front are made by plan and photos. probably not 100% scale but ....
In the plan missing are the buoyancy tanks which I build according to the best photos I found... fortunately in cad and printed in 3D as I finally downloaded almost all Sir William Hillary (S-W-H) images from the Douglas Station Facebook side and found, that especially for the S-W-H it is different to most of the others. So oncce again and after a size corretion a third time printed.... just in PLA but that's fast and easier. The final tanks and all other parts will be made in resin later.
(image 2)
There are also various vetilation covers which I've printed. The screws will be very fine but still visible at the end.
Storage openings have been cut, the one in the back will hold a small loudspeaker at the end. Covers will be don of 0.3mm thick brass.
I need tons of hinges and hop I'll manage to build them from 0.1mm brass. We'll see, if I won't manage, I'll develope something for laser cut.
Handrail is also preliminary done and the life raft + holder on the back is testprinted and ready for resin.
So here it is as it looks now:
(photo 3)
I hope I get something more done next week.
Best regards,
Joerg
And here are the images:
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Hi all,
so, making some jokes about the crew in another forum was to much for them, they simply exploded! (https://2img.net/i/fa/i/smiles/fresse.png)
I tried to print resine with just a filling grid, but the empty space still stayed full of liquid resin wich didn't harden when having the extra long UV shower (semi transparent resine).
Meanwhile I know that I need holes to let it out but for that crew it was too late. Luckily they were packed separate, except for one, so the damage from the liquid resine was very little (a few window frames).
Maybe there was an extrem high air pressure, who knows why they stayed more than half a year intact.
Anyways, I've already printed them with PLA by now, probably less fine but in 1:20 we'll see once they are painted.
The progress on the Tyne + boathouse is very little due to family business. I've just made a stand extension for presenting the boathouse on a fair. Also usable when water and land have almost the same level (to use a longer slipway for a bigger splash).(see photos at the end)
The 'Spielidee' fair in Rostock is a mixture of show and buy with a creative part, a games part (mostly cardboard games, puzzle event etc) and a model part where we had 4 exhibitors with modelships. I joined the 'IG Modellbau Seenotrettung' which showed not only german rescue units but also some units from 'all over the world' (depending on who joined, either this or that part of the world). The RNLI was represented by a 1:16 Tamar and my construct.
The stand extension is mounted quite fast and the left side of the boathouse can be easily removed (here it's mounted on the lower screwholes as it looks better).
One of the other exhibitors had a small pond on the table with a load of 1:200 tugs etc. soooooooooooooooo .... you may guess what followed....
no, not 1:200 but somehow similar in size: The Airfix Severn in 1:72 ... of course as an RC model.
Short time out for the Tyne project and up into something new, totally new, hardly nothing works as for 1:20 and of course almost nothing in stock.... 120g alltogether is the goal .... if I manage 130g I will be happy.
I will start the build report for that soon. And once it's a bit more quiet at hime the Tyne project will go on, events star in april (https://2img.net/i/fa/i/smiles/icon_biggrin.png)
Have fun,
Joerg
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Hi all,
after working quite some time on small projects (1/72+1/87), a bit covid, cold and family.... I started to work a bit on the Tyne again.
First I bought a Mersey Kit 1:20 from Manfred Sievers in Hannover (know on who got it delivered last week, so they seem to be in stock at the moment). Mersey, not Tyne??
Well the Tyne followed (meanwhile a second) Merseys at Douglas station, why not prparing the slipway for both. The Mersey has less height (or depth) difference between middel- and site-keels. As the original station I need some setup for a chance, and that should be developed together with the Tyne setup. Therefore the Mersey was bought now.
Nevertheless, Tyne goes on with: damage! I tried to get another 4600mAh 3S LiFePO4 accu, of the kind I have. Sold out, and it seems that they will not be longer produced. Instead of buying two similar accus of a different company I decided to spent some mone in Headway cells with 10Ah.
Both solution won't fit into the old/first Accu holder, so it had to be 'taken out'. (photo 1) The Headway cells can be arranged as I like, so mad etwo endcaps to put them on the floor. This is just from PLA to generate a place holder and go on with other electronics and interior placement. The final version will be printed from PETG.(photo 2)
and for comparison (photo3):
3 headway cells, 3S LiFePO4, 7m2V NiMH racing pack
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so far for the Tyne, fiddling with cables etc.
The boathouse got some wall panels. As the alu profile construct is made for the transportation box and not scale, I made wider planks than the original has. 10mm instead of 6.xmm. It's just easier to produce and probably fit's better to the big profiles. Nevertheless, at the end it will be dark brown and hardly recognizable.
I used a 'mark out' (ger: anreißen) tool for scrathcing the grooves between the planks. (photo 1)
photo2 : looks not bad at allI forgot, it's 1mm plywood. And it looks much better then scratching the grooves into the main plywood (photo 3).
because I worked so accurate before (https://2img.net/i/fa/i/smiles/icon_clown.png) I had to make 4 different sheets. Finally the glue was enough for glueing two of the other side has to wait until I got a new bottle.
Have a nice week,
Joerg
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Hi,
the glue finally arrived and a new brown colour too, after checkoing so many more photos I decided to take 'Schokolade'.(photo 1+2)
so the scratching could hardly be seen. But in different light it's a bit better.
Next I wanted to bild the small 'strorage' + stairs to the 'gangway' asifde the boat. The old Boathouse plans and my special construct don't really work together. Again I tried to guess the right height from all photos I could get. For the stairs I printed 2 mounting helps. All measures showed, that the podest for the winch and the winch itself are a bit too large. The floor also was made of two plywood leftovers. I changed this to a new one pece floor. And for building the small storage room it's better to have the back wall to... so storage room was out and instead front and back parts were done. (photo 3)
Mixture of oldschool and modern model building, window opening and later 3D printed window frames. (photo 4)
Fake 'Trapezblech' - the outside walls are made from structured metall sheets. (photo 5)
The front is just preliminary, april 19th I'll present this on the Intermodellbau in Dortmund (GER), not enough time toconstruct the folding and moving doors. (photo 6)
The back side. The door already got a bit higher. All measures just guessed from side angle view photos. (photo 7)
a short 'over' view (photo 8 )
The bouthouse is constructed so that I finally can store it on my cabinet (photo 9)
Some color is already on the new parts. Now the Tyne will get some time in parallel.Best regards,
Joerg
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Hi,
since the last post I've constantly worked on the boathouse, slipway (only exchanged rolls) and the Tyne. Got a few day's off and every evening at least painted figures. It was and still is an extreme building time, occuping the dining table for most of the days but my wife didn't run away yet. Why all this stress? Next week I'll present the stuff at the Intermodellbau in Dotmund (Germany) (https://www.intermodellbau.de/).
Of course for most of you it's too far but maybe one or the other will show up there, I'll be in Hall 3 with the (IG) Schiffsmodellbau net e.V. (https://osc.messe-dortmund.de/whdo/servlet/rubin.osc.bis.BisServlet?act=showdata&ipaeposExtid=K-691349801&fkCbWnr=472874137&ishop_id=IB23_AVZ&vs=1&t=0412110556&altIsvlIntId=BIS_SEARCH)
So, please apologize for the lack of building report over the last weeks, even on the german sites it got much less as usual.
I've build a new winch, got a sheet with some measures from the constructor company, the basic winch still is a motor with gear on an aluminum frame. 3D printed parts around. On long term I wish to have a different gear-motor construct and even longer term I want to have a figure that moves it's arm and foot. The platform and even the floor of the even part are from poplar plywood. No time to echchange the constructs, but even that will be exchanged to better and harder plywood. Remember the whole construct is made to unscrew major parts which makes it easy to exchange the floor later.photo 1 The platform for the office above the winch is done, from the office I have no phot at all. ... and no time to buil the outside. photo 2The smoke unit is inserted, but exhausts are also not ready. On the big fair I'll have some showtimes (I guess) only for sliding down and winching up. If it works and nothing fails, far enough...
You can see, I've made the 'gangway' to reach the boat including the staircase and a small roome, again easy to dismount and still not final.
The Tyne got corrected tubes in the front keel to fasten the boat on the slipway (they were lousy and not straight). I've made a new sprayrail. The deck has been glued on the hull. Only the little parts at the stern stay open to get easy acces to the exhaust tubes. (I'l use rubber glue to close it for the fair)
photo 3 The 3 headway accu cells got a finished construct around and are fastened in the boat, not even able to move a millimeter when hitting the water after sliding down. Wheelhouse and casulty cabin are both sticking with 4 (2) strong neodym magnets to the hull. Although many details are missing the aft cabin meanwhile got some orange color. OK, plans for the next few days: Front windows! I had massive problems to get some compromise between the plan and photos, but I guess I have a solution now. If there is time, the side windoiws will be glues also, if not, just transparent tape. Next wednsday I schould be in Dortmund at this time.
Best regards,
Joerg
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Hi all,Intermodellbau Dortmund (Ger) is over, I had many nice discussions and met a lot of nice chaps. Many of them I just had contact on forum, email or even phone before. But my personal highlight was Bill from the Isle of Man, who currently is finishing his .... yes ... Tyne lifeboat, the SIR WILLIAM HILLARY. I mean, it's Dortmund, hey, I probably exspected someone who visited the Isle of Man but sure no one who even knew the Coxswain of the boat I'm building. A disc with photos from the boathouse is on it's way (via snailmail). Thanks Bill! :-))
I was really enjoying to tell people a bit about the RNLI boathouses and differences to german lifeboats and coasts. Hope that some may recognize that if the go on holiday in RNLI areas and donate a bit.
Nevertheless, I also made a few test launches and the new wich was also working. Overall many things to learn not only the action but also the st up and packing can be modified.
For those who don't have facebook, here is the link to a video of the test launches:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y4eAtLVT2Q0 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y4eAtLVT2Q0)
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Hi,
I had too many side projects this year.
So far there was only little progress in the last few months:
I sprayed the hull, primer and then Molotow Premium.... 3 days for drying....
Next event the boot stood stuck on the slipway no moving alone.
Added 3mm wide half-round profiles on the keels and again spray color.... +some glide lubricant ... almost too much ;0)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dkMRnXPbF6Y (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dkMRnXPbF6Y)
Well, sliding worked but the connector between motor an winch trommel broke again. 2nd time, the new one now is of steel, hope that one will last longer than the other parts (= forever...).
Since then there are not many changes on the boat. I designed and printed bollards for bow and stern and hopefully will mount (glue) the exhausts in the stern wall on next weekend. No flaps yet but they should come soon.
The last weekends I could enhance the boathouse a bit. Roof rack(s) were printed in PLA to show if the idea of a collapsable roof works. It worked almost, I had to make a few changes and will get them cut from 2mm aluminum this week. The roof has riffles which can also be seen from inside (Trapezblech in german) so I finally decided to print it, in 28 parts at the end - still printing day by day or better each evening one...
The wall for the small office above the winch has been made, including a window. And in the front part more stands and a plattform have been installed. The small walls at the big gate will later be redone, once the gate and it's mechanism is done (invented/realized).
So far I'm happy (except for the time it took) with the boathouse. As mentioned earlier, it should be a look-a-like not 100% scale Douglas boathouse - I have not enough infos and not enough space.
Still a long way to go ...
Best,
Joerg
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Hi all,again quite some time passed. At the event following the last post, the winch got stuck. Motor started smoking and I had to winch by hand, right after the first try.
I've made some priliminary fluorescent lamps for the boathouse. Over the years they had different types (at least partially). I've chosen the 3 lamp size. My size is a mixture of photo measures and real existing lamp types.
Because there are so many (more than 20 I think), I've made my own version in a cheap and fast way (see photo at the end), two half shells and a folded LED strip, that runs with 5V and I can mount several of them in row. At that evernt, the first try with tesafilm sticked lamps worked good enough for me. So I started with preparations to mount them properly. Screwed, so that I can still take them of and probably change the light source if I want.
For all this 'developement' my basic idea of a central frame and all parts somehow mounted with screws is very helpfull, I could just dismount the walls and interior and work with more space.
Ah, I forgot, the winch, the gear motor was replaced and the winch setup partially redone. The winch plattform and the upper part of the slip where also redone more stable and closer to newer photos I found.
Then came the roof. The test cross members (roof carrier) you could already see in the latest post. I got them redone in 2mm aluminum, cut by laser. The connectors with rivets were 3D printed and sticked to it. In real the metal profiles building the cross members are partially 'angle profiles' - I skipped that idea. Should be just look-a-like and therefore I think it's not bad at all.
Currently I added some wooden beams for the roof, wich has been printed in parts. The idea is to have half the roof mounted and the other half easy to take of for exhibitions. The full roof system can be unfolded? (folded up?) so that I can still take the Tyne out.
The next days I'll mount the lamps and parts of the roof, in a week is another exhibition.
Best regards,Joerg
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To glue the two parts of each roof section I used two leftover roofracks, mounted side by side so that I could fix the printed parts while glueing.
Finally I got 7 roof parts for one half. Maybe not the final parts but good enough for the fair/exhibition in Rostock (Ger).
Parallel the roof beams got some darkening color.
That's how it should look at the end. The mounting of the roof parts happenend the evening before I left to Rostock.
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Hi, to get on with the roof mount, I printed a few pieces to strengthen the mounting and give it more rigidity.
in addition now all nuts got some sticky glue
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the lamps under the roof are hanged by chains, I mad en easy holder to glue onto the lampside and mouted the chain with wire to the roof beams.
finally I made soldering connections of all the wires ...
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the lamp wires were all mounted with small plugs, these sticked into a socket. So I can always dismount the lamps.
To cover the sockets I just printed a small box.
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Rostock came closer but I wanted to have a few spots on the boathouse exit.
Used 5mm LEDs which may have a SMDLED inside, no idea but they have a wider angle than usual 5mm LEDs.
at the end they look not bad, got some more rounds of paint to cover the light from leaving through the walls.
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Hi, so that's the actual looking.
I could mount the spots and the roof the evening before I left. Filling up the car with all my ships in the morning.
photo 1: the boathouse surrounded by various RNLI and former RNLI units. And a MBD 1:12 Shannon kit....
photo 2: Sorry, but this one had to be, I'll clean the wellies up later
and some more views -- it's all done in a hurry for the exhibition and far from ready.
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well, guess who took the big white one home %% {-) :police:
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Well, not much on the Tyne or boathouse but some wellie-art:FDm printed, 1/20, 3 different sizes. Painted yellow (no time to order yellow filament), black sole, RNLI with a fine Edding... need to leard to make decals!
First was an 'Adventskranz', 4 lamps, from the 1st to the 4th advent one 'candle' more on light. Then I thought of an christmas tree out of wellies, there are some examples, either real or graphics. So I built my own for the boathouse and for my cristmas card.
I wish you a nice, calm and harmonic christmas time, peace and a soft glide into the new year. Low stress and hopefully no calls for all people on duty.
Joerg
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Hi JoJoElbe,
Thank you for always interesting pics, most of which are mass-produced neatly and have made me amazed deeply. !! :-)) :-))
The Christmas related pics of the above are so impressive, sufficient and tidy to represent something warm, holy and pious
of the people on the holy night. Great artist to represent and affect human feeling and psychology, JoJoElbe !! :-)) :-)) :-))
Kiyo
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Hi,
the wellie xmas tree got me some contact to one of the Douglas crew. Which got me some images of the tank over the boathouse slip exit. In the usual online photos it was hard to guess what that is. Since my visit at Wicklow boathouse I know that it's the diesel tank (storage) for the lifeboats.
A few days stay of my wife at their parents were used to build the tank and the wooden floor around.
The width of the floor boars s a bit too wide, but as it will be a look-a-like built and I sure will fill the space up, it shouldn't matter much.The tank now just covers the spot electrics, later it will cover the gate electronics.
Best regards, Joerg