Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Working Vessels => Topic started by: ronnie42 on February 04, 2022, 07:26:51 pm
-
Bought this boat for a different type of modelling, usually do rc tanks. Fitted 2 rc car motors and a couple of 50 A marine esc's to check for leaks,( rudders and shafts ) thought this would be a fast conversion as it was built up. Found out that it need a lot of work, glue as dot and dab and many parts loose and water finding its way in all over the place. First up was remove the forward decking an easy job due to the glue used. Fitted a bow thruster but changed it to the lowest possible position, removed the rubber fenders as the little chain fixing let the water in and fitted tubes for the anchors then sealed up all the holes.(https://i.imgur.com/xol3cwe.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/ZbcvQA8.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/xi5myQ2.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/1ZWAbBe.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/R7238BF.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/A5pu2pt.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/OhTfb5O.jpg) No leaks after repositioning bow thruster, deck and sealing up all the holes. Fitted an Action Electronics P93 and a P102 3 motor board, change the motors then blew the P93 (wrong polarity ) its away for repair. Have wired up a crawler/boat ABSIMA esc as a temp for the bow thruster , set radio to 50% travel to reduce the voltage but it also halfs the reverse to 25%. Will give it a sail to double check prop shafts and rudder for water.
-
4th time lucky no water in hull. Might change motors from 2.5 to 6/1 ratio or just set sticks for lower speed.https://www.youtube.com/shorts/RiLn6z7z0vs (https://www.youtube.com/shorts/RiLn6z7z0vs) Bow looks down going but at rest is ok.
-
Hi,
What battery/motors combination are you using? That's way too fast for the type of boat, I used MMM T20 motors in all of my Tugs with 12 volt 7AH lead acid batteries but there are other alternatives i.e. brushless etc. Good luck with the progress.
Regards, Pete. :-)) :-))
-
The white metal fittings will add a lot of weight high up, any good plastic fittings for the winches and crane. Has anyone used plastic/ styrene for ladders and the stairs and what size ,can't see 1/50 its all railway codes for size .
-
Hi FASTFAZ Have mfa 919D motors with 2.5 gearing and a 12v 7 a/h battery. Gave it full stick to check the sealed up holes . I am thinking that for now i will just set limits on the sticks, this is my first boat . Going to try and set the radio up for the twin motors , one stick for motors forward/reverse and turning , other stick rudder and bow thruster .
-
Hi Ronnie,
Normal set up for a twin screw Tug would be tank steering i.e. left stick Port motor right stick Starboard motor both up for forward and down for reverse, you could operate the two motors using a Y lead from each ESC to the receiver but if there is any difference between the two motors start point of power ( a bit like tickover in a car) it will affect the straight running of the boat. My set up was as above with rudder left to right on the right stick and Bow thruster left to right on the left stick, once you get used to it you can steer the boat just using the power of the motors for example to go Port use reverse on the left stick and forward on the right stick. There is lots of info and help on set up and steering on the forum have a browse there are some very helpful people on here. Hope this helps.
Cheers, Pete. :-)) :-)) :-))
-
You can also use a mixer which will enable both screws to be controlled from the left hand stick.
Explanation here:
https://www.componentshop.co.uk/media/sparsh/product_attachment/P40D_compressed.pdf
Colin
-
The component shop/action electronics, sent a board back for repair over a week ago. They have not phoned or emailed me a price for the repair, how long is the average turnaround on repairs? I am 2 stanchions short for the AZIZ rebuild, can't find any of the flat stamped out ones , its all the round versions, who sells this type. Found a detailed build and followed the spacings from the lifeboat to the crane . Need the ones for each end , curved the ends for now.(https://i.imgur.com/UMnFUGg.jpg)
-
Hi Ronnie42, if you make a list of the bits you need and email it to me, I can sort out the bits.
Adam
Mountfleet models
-
Thanks Adam . i know i need a few stanchions, lifebouys, some valves and quite a few photo etch valve handles. Will make a list and send to Mountfield models. Doing a rebuild without the kit instructions is problematic as i have discovered that when you look at images no two builds are alike . If you want to add detail thats OK as a search brings up lots of builds. Found one thats interesting, AZIZ red merlin rebuild like the curved rails on the work deck.
-
Fixed a few mistakes, stairs in wrong place so vents , lifeboat cradle and railings needed redone . Added some detail , other side to fix now. Trying to replace some white metal parts with styrene to reduce weight above the waterline. Images show up all the faults ,need to fix railing stanchion.
(https://i.imgur.com/oIdXFgf.jpg)
-
Hi Ronnie42
I have the build book if you need any info just ask.
Fred
-
Bought some styrene ladders to replace the white metal ones, fixed the steps and had a search for OSV and tug deck colours. Only found one build that said Tamiya Nato green mixed with Deck tan. Sprayed some greens to decide what shade i like. This is the time to accept Freds offer of help, a side view of the small deck fitting , bow mast height and lighting positions as the boat only has lower half. (https://i.imgur.com/xZhL4sv.jpg)
-
Hi Ronnie 47
I will photo copy the foremast drawings later on today,
You ask for the small deck fittings would that be the ones on the working deck?
I am going to my club today so will ask one of our members if I can take some photos of his boat, as mine is still in its box.
Fred
-
Hi Fred It’s the small fittings on the mid deck at the railings beside the crane and lifeboat . That’s the 3rd place I have seen the group of 3 valves. The original placement on my 2nd hand boat was at the gates towards the rear workdeck, looked wrong as the gates when open hit the valves☹️. Does the kit have a colour chart? .Valves and decks ,the web searches have work deck a different colour on some boats .
-
Hi Ronnie
I am hoping to be able to go round to my mates house this coming Tuesday so that I can take as many photos as I wish of his Aziz.
If you would P/M me your email address so that I can send them to you. I hope that the pdf file that I have attached works.
Fred
-
Hi
I have found these
Fred
-
Hi Fred Perfect , nice pics and the mast detail saves a lot of internet searches. I can work out the height by comparing against the upper decks. Another plus is the lighting with the colours.
-
Added some detail at front, found a Dutch build . On to the lights before primer and fixing issues . Trying the enamel coated wire, its nice and thin but a pain to strip. Fitted floodlight( drilled out kit one) and a navigation light . Angle looks ok but need to fill the gap at the back of the floodlight to seal light at the back(https://i.imgur.com/QT8TnAA.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/j9FcGp1.jpg)
-
Trying to reduce the weight up top, drilled the bollards out for styrene rod fixings and the vents were replaced with styrene tubes. As the white metal is soft, clamping to drill round parts is a pain. The winches add a fair bit of weight up top. Will try BLUESTUFF to mould the round parts and styrene for the rest, if that does not work will buy plastic winches. As i live near the coast want the weight low down.(https://i.imgur.com/qiBelGp.jpg)
-
Great job on that refurbishment and a very nice build so far!
-
Hi Ronnie24
Sorry that I have not posted any photos of the area that you asked for, it is just that my mate has had to self isolate so have not been able to get around to his place.
Fred
-
Hi all Thanks for looking in , Fred as they say stay safe. A little bit of brass work, grill for bow thruster . Fitted to check, next one will be easy as i can just copy.(https://i.imgur.com/ztIyNAQ.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/MPIU3rO.jpg)
-
Hi Ronnie
These may be of some help, if you need any more then please ask
Fred
-
Thanks Fred The little vents and other fitting were hard to see on most pics of the AZIZ . Started the white paint for the superstructure, white is a real pain to paint. Its going to be at least 2 jars of Tamiya X-2 , lots of fine coats required .
-
Hi Ronnie
Just ask if you need any area photo'd, I can drop down to my mates any time.
Fred
-
you tube why can't it just show .https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xde98CM_b6c (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xde98CM_b6c)
-
Down to the Clyde, rising tide and an onshore wind otherwise boat may end up at Gourock. Trying out my hack bilge pump, car washer pump. If the rear deck is not sealed lots of water in hull. The pump is not perfect might need a filter as its temperamental but it seems to work. (https://i.imgur.com/XjGdwM6.mp4)
-
Split the inner hull with a divider as most of the water comes in at the stern.(https://i.imgur.com/1yu3ny5.jpg) cut the wiper washer down on the inlet side as they are not self priming.
-
Started the mast at the bow, made it in two parts. Will be easier to transport , now i need to wire it up .(https://i.imgur.com/lMhqV1u.jpg) Used Freds mast detail to sort out the lamp positions etc. Top section , was going to use styrene but brass is less likely to break. (https://i.imgur.com/TBNaxw0.jpg)
-
Hi Ronnie
Thank you for the recognition,
I must say that you are doing a great job on the rebuild, I just hope that when I start mine it is some were as good as yours.
Fred
-
Had a few issues sailing, almost lost the radio connection about 100m out. Just as well it was an onshore wind, then hit a snag and one rudder support twisted. Fixed the support and tried to sort out the leaking rudder tubes, longer brass rudder tube and a tube glued in for some sort of stuffing box filled with waterproof grease.(https://i.imgur.com/yS1ENh4.jpg).Other side filled with grease and its well above the waterline.(https://i.imgur.com/8ihcB0Q.jpg)
-
With any luck the drips from rudder tube will be gone.(https://i.imgur.com/cw4EJFr.jpg)
-
Hi. Anyone using a 12v 7ah battery and MFA 919 geared motors"? Ran out of juice after an hour, out on the Clyde so some sailing against the tide, run time is rubbish . Should I use a board with a changeover function for 2 batteries. Almost lost the boat, going to leave fishing gear in van as an insurance.
-
Hi Ronnie sounds like an SLA (lead acid ) battery? they are rated differebtly to the other batteries we use. They are cheaper because you do not get so much for your money.
I would suggest a modern NiMh or Lipo battery pack 3S at 5000 mAhrs will give better run time but you may need to add extra ballast to compensate. Same goes for Nimh 12 volts (10 cell pack) at 5000mAhrs.
regards
Roy
-
Rather than adding useless ballast add more batteries instead. LiPo batteries can be run in parallel to give a much longer running time. A gell cell weighs around 2 1/2 kg while the LiPo pack weighs around 400g on average so 3 of them in parallel will more than double the capacity while still weighing less.
Jim
-
Have a few big li-po batteries for my rc tanks but I run the boat in saltwater. The Aziz is a wet boat , need to use a pump quite often. Li-po may be iffy sloshing about in the hull. May try some li-fe or other safer battery type. The ballast is the SLA battery and 3+ kilos of lead , that would be almost 6 kilos of batteries.Thanks all.
-
Hi again. Do buy your batteries from a UK or reputable company. Batteries from China are very frequently not what is printed on the cell. Li-Fe batteries especially, Component Shop give good reliable data about their cells.
Check the weight of the battery usually given in data sheets this is important as this is actually how much active 'battery' you are getting. Also check that they can discharge the current you want. There are some outlandish claims on ebay regarding discharge and capacity (Amp hours).
regards
Roy
-
Given all the doom and gloom warnings re Lipo s JimG, how do we ensure equal discharge on paralised packs?
Regards Ian.
-
Hi again. Do buy your batteries from a UK or reputable company. Batteries from China are very frequently not what is printed on the cell. Li-Fe batteries especially, Component Shop give good reliable data about their cells.
Roy
You do of course need to appreciate that LiPo packs bought from a UK supplier are most likely using Chinese made cells, all they do is assemble the packs from individual cells.
Jim
-
Given all the doom and gloom warnings re Lipo s JimG, how do we ensure equal discharge on paralised packs?
Regards Ian.
When the packs are in parallel they will always self level to stay at the same discharge state. The only stipulation is to make sure the packs are all of the same capacity and C rating and are fully charged before connecting together in parallel. They can then stay connected together and can be charged in parallel although they would need to be charged singly on the occasional balance charge.( If they are not at quite the same charge level when connected they will self level anyway, and there will not be a massive currrent passing on connection. I have tested the self levelling current when a fully charged 3S 8000mAh pack is paralleled to an identical discharged pack and it was a maximum of 5A, less than a 1C charge current for the pack. It took around 30 minutes for the packs to level out at the same capacity . Care does need to be taken with LiPo packs but they are not as dangerous as many make them out to be. The few with problems always put out warnings and decry them while the millions without problems never say a word, just use them.)
Jim
-
You do of course need to appreciate that LiPo packs bought from a UK supplier are most likely using Chinese made cells, all they do is assemble the packs from individual cells.
True Jim, but UK suppliers like Component Shop do make a lot of effort to ensure that they only sell good quality items, including batteries. If they don't then the comeback is on them but if you buy direct from China then the after service, if needed, can be a bit problematical. Some of what you buy is very good, othe items less so and it can be hard to tell the difference.
Component Shop on their website do stress that they have stringent quality control and if something goes wrong they are just a phone call away. And at shows (remember them?) you can directly inspect the products before buying and ask questions. All worth paying a bit extra for in my view.
Colin
-
Been looking for winches but no luck finding plastic ones, want to reduce the above waterline weight. Started to do the towing gear in styrene.
-
Made up one drum for the winch, 2nd one will be much easier now I know how to do it. The base supports next , need styrene strip the correct size. Have 2 chequered plates that I don’t know where they fit on the winch has anyone and pics to show position.
-
Hi Ronnie
I have the build box that came with the Aziz, I will dig it out over the weekend and copy the drawing for the winches, if that is any help.
Fred
-
Found an Aziz build by Grzorz 75 ,copied the added detail. Can’t post pic on my iPad ,gave up after 3 goes?
-
All styrene apart from the exhausts and large hand wheel, primer to show up faults. Going to try and replicate the anchor gear and the small winches. Not a fan of the white metal, not good for the stability if the water is rough.back to using Imgur for posting images. (https://i.imgur.com/yfigDkF.jpg).(https://i.imgur.com/jZPB7VQ.jpg)
-
One prop in Loch lomond https://imgur.com/a/JYAgxN1
-
Wow! ronnie42.....that was a bit too close for comfort @ about 48 seconds near the rocks <*< <*< <*< , but she handles the swell quite well
Derek
-
Reduced the weight of the winch by about a kilo using styrene and brass.Should reduce the pendulum effect when sailing in rough water. https://imgur.com/a/3GdIr1u (https://imgur.com/a/3GdIr1u)
-
I love an Aziz model, sadly got rid of mine many years ago and it does pain me to think of it even now.
Great to see your progress though and I love the concept of keeping it light above the waterline, I like a chunky fixture and fitting but always have been weary when I see others plonking masses of brass and white metal fittings up top.
Looking forward to seeing more.
-
Been looking for deck fittings made with injection mouldings but no luck. Shapeways have cranes but winches are not right, made some more out of styrene .
-
What kind of thing are you after? they could be 3d printed I imagine if they are common enough.
-
Hi Have looked at printers, still thinking about the resin ones. Some parts are difficult using styrene. Another 2 deck fittings made.(https://i.imgur.com/2kJOyEF.jpg)
-
Hi Tugcowboy Tried casting , mixed results with JB weld perhaps tubes were not warm enough . Will have another go to make the drums. More weight removed from above the waterline.(https://i.imgur.com/jWYaXOB.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/PsEeiDJ.jpg)
-
Hi
I made MV Celestine. She had all white metal fittings. I cleaned up one of each fitting to make a master. Then recast all in resign. Results over 1.5kg reduction in weight.
If I was you use what you have has a master.
John
-
Is cost the only reason why manufacturers haven't switched over to injection moulded plastics? White metal above the waterline to me is a disaster waiting to happen all that weight above the waterline. I want to sail the boat in all weathers not just flat calm conditions. Been looking at Turkmodels, they appear to have done away with white metal. The next boat may be the Scottish fishery protection one.
-
Bought a resin moulding kit to see how it compares to Jb weld. Its clear, will see if it takes paint if not another try. Google search gives 2 options , spray primer into mould or mix a pigment into the resin. Fixed the cutouts in the rear deck , both sides are the same now. Some more white metal for melting down for ballast .(https://i.imgur.com/JUxT5zv.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/frbtR7r.jpg)
-
Test run in Loch Lomond, boat wants to sail in circles when both motors are set on 100% ( full stick via switches, no rudder input as i was not using the sticks) . Fitted a gps to check , rudder looks ok might be mismatched motors even if they are the same type. Flysky do rpm sensors , another issue is battery life is poor, after hour the telemetry was showing the boats battery at 9.6 v under load.(https://i.imgur.com/bshds5L.png)
-
Going round in circles solved. Voltage to motors from the battery , one speed controller output 9.6v and the other 11.3 v. Though my Radiomaster 16s had a faulty stick , or internal pc board. Going to look at a brushless set up.
-
some more white metal replaced.(https://i.imgur.com/2BG9LaA.jpg)
-
Crane final version .(https://i.imgur.com/MhmAqUQ.jpg)
-
Rear mast some brass strip and rod to redo the railings ,fibre for rear light and ladders to replace lost brass rungs.(https://i.imgur.com/ncYUgzf.jpg)
-
Nice work on the crane.
-
I am thinking about buying this sound module . https://www.mr-rcworld.co.uk/shop/realtime-engine-sound-playback-module/
Its small, might need to use a waterproof case, has anyone else bought one?Don't know if the supplied sounds are suitable for the Aziz.Suppose you could use an Audio program to make up a sound track to replicate the boats engine sound.
-
Some lights, and fitted tubes just incase it wants a rewire. Some damage but easily fixed. Need to think about front mast and rear work deck lights, tried fibre optic cable but too small because of the right angle bends .
-
Very realistic night image ronnie42 :-))
-
Lights added more floodlights.Some damage to mid deck but will be easy to repair lights, styrene tubes for wiring runs. Has anyone images of lighting on the work deck of supply boats as that the next area to add lights.
-
Starting to look better, ships at night are well lit up.
-
Decided to make the stern roller lower and able to revolv, never liked the way that the roller sits high over the work deck.. First attempt leaked due to roller shaft leaking.
-
Its a pain trying to upload photos, why do we need to reduce image size? Other forums do it automatically, modern phones take large images. My Pixel 6 needs an app from play store to reduce the image size for this forum, perhaps that's why people shy away from posting up images on builds.
-
First attempt, but it leaks.
-
Glued in the shaft for roller, now roller turns on shaft. If it's watertight on the work deck it's an easy job to lower the roller again as they are level with the deck on OSV boats. Sealed up again with resin around the roller housing.
-
Thinking about a winch , don't want to spend loads on a working one. Going to try and make one . Can fit the motor and gears under the work deck plate then a belt drive to drive the winch as it's on a fixed section of deck.
-
Lights and removing pot metal . Changed to brass strip,the white metal is not strong enough and I hate the stuff. One would think that today alternative material is available.. one done 2 to go , will be able to lay the superstructure down with breaking bits now.
-
Winch started basic box and drum to check mechanism.https://m.youtube.com/shorts/NB4B3I4t8Yk (https://m.youtube.com/shorts/NB4B3I4t8Yk)
-
Sorting out the lights, found little strip lights 2 by 30mm smaller would be better for scale. Other side is micro LEDs with servo bushes cut to stop the light spreading upwards, the stop lights are fragile bust 2 snap easily. Need to work out size of cable for bow mast 3 or 4 little LEDs to fit.
-
Looking Good Ronnie! 👍
-
Have a slightly bent propshaft at the motor connection, only found out as I am going to go brushless. stripped out all the wiring as I found out that long battery leads to the ECU are a no- no so a rewire for much shorter cabling.Everything was up at the superstructure hatch and need to move back for short cable runs to the brushless gear.
-
Posts to raise powe circuit board away from any water.
-
Made an anchor out of scrap and winch mark 2 basic shape and the posts.
-
Anchor test.https://m.youtube.com/shorts/cwvRXfylLxo
-
Redone the stern roller, was sitting high. Filled in the recess at each end on hull below roller. Another fix was cutting away below roller to drain water out of the water trap.