Model Boat Mayhem
Mess Deck: General Section => Beginners start here...! => Topic started by: Alan52 on March 16, 2022, 04:33:23 pm
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Hi all
Been away from the hobby for a number of years and just decided to get back in.
I have just purchased a Kymodel 1/32nd mooring tug. It says on the information that it has a resin hull. I suspect looking at it, it seems to all be 3d printed. Could anyone recommend a suitable glue for this type of material. They also mention that the supplied motor is a 380. I have been able to verify this as there is no markings. Any suggestions for speed controller and batteries as there is no mention of this.
Any information gratefully received.
Regards
Alan
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Hi Alan
I am building the Harro Koebke, the hull are of the upmost quality don’t you think, I use two part epoxy and standard filler on the hull.
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Hi Russel
Looks like a lovely job. Would the hull be resin on yours? I am a bit cautious as to what I fix the shaft in with. I thought about 2 part epoxy, but I am not sure if it will react with the resin. I am not really sure what the hull is made of. I have been unable to find any build threads for this kit. It appears to be 3D printed. Will probably use superglue for the rest of the construction.
Any help appreciated.
Best wishesAlan
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Hi , I built one last year. The hull is resin and looks like it was 3D printed using a photosensitive resin, not the molten filament used by simpler printers. The shaft outer tube slides into a moulded tube in the hil stern and was quite a good fit. I used thin superglue wicked into the gap after fitting the tube. All of the rest of the joints were made using superglue. The windows were fitted using R/C modellers canopy glue (basically PVA white woodglue)) There was some slight warping of the cabin roof at the front which meant the front window didn't fit as well as the rest. While the instructions show the prop shroud and the brass cage over the cabin being glued I actually soldered them for strengthI am using a Hobbywing Quickrun 1060 brushed esc with two 4 cell NiMh pencell packs in parallel for power to give approx 5000mAh capacity. One is fitted in front of the motor anad the other had to be split into 2 sections to sit either side of the motor to get it to sit right in the water. I originally had both in front of the motor but this made it bow heavy and it tended to dig the bow in at speed. With this voltage there is more than enough power and it will go at more than scale speed. There is one drawback with using the pencells as at higher speeds it does cause the pack voltage to drop enough that the radio telemetry detects a low voltage to the receiver and the Tx starts bleeping as a warning. I am using a Turnigy (FlySky) TGY-i10 Tx with a 4 channel Rx.
Jim
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Hi Jim
Thanks very much for all the information
I did plan to use 2 Part epoxy for the shaft, but I will now try superglue as per your build. Did you keep with original motor? I have just searched for the esc you used and found it for £19.95. Really good price. I was thinking of using a Mtroniks esc, but will go with the one you used. Could I just ask where you bought your Batteries from.
Appreciate the help Jim
Thanks
Alan
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Have a look in "what's" in the box section. Tica a has a thread near the top which I hijacked with photos of mine also. Super glue and epoxy are fine. Watch for distortion. My hull and wheelhouse were really distorted out of the box! I'm glad I changed my motor, the supplied one would have been way overpowered for me. There's a few people built them on various forums I found at the time through Google. Here's the warnings about the resin parts not being fully cured. I used canopy glue for my windows but never again because the one I used was not waterproof.
Mine built up OK but I was disappointed about the distortion of the mouldings though I managed to get most of it out. It sails quite nicely on a calm pond.
Richard
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Hi Richard
Thanks for the information. I have found the thread and the pictures of your build. Looks really good. I like the way you have secured the deck. Mine is also warped, so will have to go down a similar route.
Thanks again for the information.
Alan
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Hi Jim
Thanks very much for all the information
I did plan to use 2 Part epoxy for the shaft, but I will now try superglue as per your build. Did you keep with original motor? I have just searched for the esc you used and found it for £19.95. Really good price. I was thinking of using a Mtroniks esc, but will go with the one you used. Could I just ask where you bought your Batteries from.
Appreciate the help Jim
Thanks
Alan
The batteries were bought from a local model shop. I used the original motor as the hull has a motor mount built in and others might not fit.
Just a warning about the resin hull, I have found that it is very brittle like many of the photo cured resins. It was accidentally knocked to the ground from where it was stored. On initial checks it looked like there were only a few minor parts knocked off or loosened, easily repaired When checking it over last night I found a large split in the side and bottom of the hull at the rear, this will require a lot of work to repair as much of it is not easily accessible from the inside to add a glass fibre/epoxy patch. Not sure if I will try to repair it or get a new kit, it is a handy sized model for transport on a motorbike.
Jim
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HI Jim
Sorry about your tug. I have heard elsewhere about how easy it is to damage. Stuck on batteries. Have been on so many sites. Not sure what size will be the best fit. Or whether to go with Nimh or lipo. As you say its a good size for carting about on the bike. Would be sad not to repair it.
Best wishes
Alan
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It should easily take the weight of 6 NiMh AA batteries. I have two 3x2.9ah packs tucked in either side of the motor. Have to solder them up yourself but Component Shop say they will make up custom packs. I went 7.2v and changed the motor because I didn't want brown out using the ESC BEC function (viper marine 10). No doubt LiPo are better power to weight if you have a desire to use them.
Rich
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Hi Rich
Thanks for the information. Now I have a better idea what to look for and what will fit. I will have a look on the Component shop website and see what’s available.
Thanks again for the information. It is appreciated.
Best wishes
Alan