Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Submarines => Topic started by: ScottW on August 15, 2022, 09:49:06 pm
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Okay, let's do an official 'build log' for a rubberband powered balsa wood submarine.
Model is second balsa wood submarine inspired by a project in a 1970s book parents got me back in school days.
Submarine there was built of balsa planks, blocks, sheets, with bent tinplate prop and rudder. However after procrastinating around 30 years I built a much more sophisticated model in 2005-6.
Current project got its first parts cut and assembled in 2008 then spend between then and now being worked on in spurts between years of inactivity.
With having to give up participating in model railroad club I've recently started more intently working on it.
This build is to be 3 feet long, twin screw, freelance design with shape inspired by a bit of Typhoon/Red October & the NNemo2 by Newport News Shipbuilding division of Northrop Grumman.
See photos in: https://www.semanticscholar.org/paper/SIMULATION-OF-A-NON-AXISYMMETRIC-UNDERSEA-VEHICLE-A-Hess-Faller/d1f839ed416da9ef35bf63d4eaa1ce8ffea5dda5
Propellors/screws are circa 2005-6 with one right and one left rotating by Traxxis for a RC deep vee they had at the time. One of those props does admirably on the single screw build from 2005 which will go Olympic pool length on 300 winds with 1/2 to 3/5 the distance submerged depending on how many winds and on the bow plane setting.
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Along the way a more military looking single screw one was built for neighbor Bobby around 2007, 08.
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Okay, back to the 3 foot build. The photos can do the talking.
Hull is free-flooding so that is why so many vents and drains.
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A bit more to catch up to current state.
A 'primary feature' of its styling will be a few selected anachronisms.
Around 01am Saturday a button got turned in to a hatch which was inspired by a feature of Germany's modern U212 type.
See: https://www.seaforces.org/marint/German-Navy/Submarine/Type-212A-class.htm (https://www.seaforces.org/marint/German-Navy/Submarine/Type-212A-class.htm)
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Hi Scott
Just found your build log. What a fantastic job you have made. I always admire people who can build from plans and scratch build. Unfortunately I am not that skilled in that area.
Great Job mate :-)) :-)) :-))
Alan
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Just found your build log.
That recent find is only because it was created an hour ago!
Thanks Alan!
Don't let my secret out but a lot of this one is being designed as it goes along. Finally last week settled on what to do for rudder/rudders.
Now the details of how to build them need to be worked out.
Stern planes are still a mystery. They need to: 1, be adjustable; and, 2, not have shafts which interfere with rubber bands and prop shafts.
For a long time there was intent to give the thing an assortment of working lights. That is a bit iffy right now. Much less work to not have them. But having them would be so cool. But not having them is so much easier and no access openings need to be cut in the hull structure. But last week I found some watertight battery containers on Amazon and there is an idea how they can be mounted for exterior access from the bottom.
And finally, scratchbuilding is a whole lot simpler when building to "sport scale" or "toy scale"; especially when construction is all welded and there are no rivets to have certain specific quantities of.
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Hi Scott
Do the lights, you will kick yourself later if you don,t. It’s looking impressive. Good luck with the stern planes . I wouldn’t know where to start.
Alan
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Do the lights, you will kick yourself later if you don,t. It’s looking impressive.
I'm leaning that way again. Remember though, these projects are being done with a body which can prevent anything more complex than daily existence from being done for periods of days to entire seasons.
However ...
This is one of the waterproof battery holders found, https://www.amazon.com/Adafruit-Waterproof-Battery-Holder-Switch/dp/B071H8R6R1/ (https://www.amazon.com/Adafruit-Waterproof-Battery-Holder-Switch/dp/B071H8R6R1/)
And current thinking is that with frame cross-section depth being what it is there is allowance to inset one of these in hull bottom each side of external box keel. And under the balsa blocks which form conning tower and sail so battery weight could offset some of their buoyancy - but will 2 AA even be enough weight to offset what buoyancy the battery boxes themselves may have?
Photos show hull bottom & a bit of shot for ballast added. Will take far more than that even with hull being frames and skin as opposed to PRS-1's hull of blocks, slabs, and thick plank for hull bottom; even with an open free-flooding hull it is heavier than most people expect.
Anyway, guess the only way to find out is buy battery boxes from next month's income, try them and find out.
Lights themselves will be LED pirated from Christmas lights. An array of white lights in bow for illumination when docking with undersea colonies; a few other lights; & some but not all of the navigation lights. Spectators might like the flashing yellow beacon subs of today use for surface navigation but I've got autism and a few other neurological things going on and flashing lights get on my nerves real quick, quick enough that there is no television in my home.
But yeah, it would look very cool lit up like something from another planet.
And be a trip to run at night if that option ever presents itself.
Oh, pair of large round holes is access to where forward ends of rubber band motors will be secured.
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Made some bite-sized progress today; got fairing for base of folding snorkel glued on.
Fabricated it in similar bite-sized sessions Saturday and Sunday. The rust color material is Bondo glazing and spot putty. Grain was sealed, somewhat, by dipping part in shellac. Then after a bit more sanding the putty was used to smooth the surface again.
Will eventually be painted with a sealing coat of clear gloss brushing lacquer, in this case made by Minwax.
True, the fairing's leading edge could be more streamlined but this is the look my brain desired. And it is in the wake turbulence of the base of the sail anyway ...
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Do the lights, you will kick yourself later if you don,t.
That keeps on sounding more and more Right.
So ... (while it is 4 am now in UK it is only 10 pm here)
I took a gift card from my parents which had some remaining money and ordered those battery holders since website said 11 currently in stock.
Amazon page had dimensions which allowed a couple templates to be cut.
Battery holder is said to be 3/4 inch thick. Frame depth is 1/2 inch. Hull skin is 1/8 inch.
Holders can be inset to hull frame depth.
Then have an exterior fairing which echoes upper fairing.
That would allow depth for a removable skin panel to smooth exterior and reduce turbulence at that location.
How about placing them right there? (as in attached image)
It now appears that a plan may have come together. :}
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Hi Scott
I am no expert, but that looks like the right position to me. The lights will definitely make it a real eye catcher. Coming on well mate. Great job. :-)) :-))
Alan
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Thanks Alan! :-))
No progress on PRS-2 today, but the PRS-1 crew are finally getting those handrails they've been nagging me about since the boat left the ways in 2005.
Oh, and after several years of pondering painting, PRS-2 will receive same colors as PRS-1.
Guess that will be my 'official style' for subs built to imaginary designs.
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A most impressive build and wonderful imagination to go with it. It looks like a lot of fun, interspersed with some headaches…
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Looking great Scott. I like the colour scheme :-)) :-))
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It looks like a lot of fun, interspersed with some headaches…
Thanks! :}
It is great fun, even the designing is a form of play.
One or two minor headaches give a satisfaction of challenge and resolution; more than that take the fun out of a project.
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Looking great Scott. I like the colour scheme :-)) :-))
Hey, good morning, well, 8:55am in our time zone. :}
Thanks!
However it was that came to be PRS-1's color scheme in 2005 it does turn out to look attractive both in the water and on the shelf.
While waiting to begin a sleep study at neurology clinic last week I had brought along sketchbook and colored pencils and put PRS-2 in to that livery.
Am really looking forward to reaching point of paint and decals yet feeling somewhat intimidated by this thing's size with its three foot length.
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Periscope and antenna progress. There will eventually be scope 2 mostly retracted between scope 1 and antenna mast.
Bases of scope 1 and antenna mast go an inch or so in to balsa block of sail/fin/fairwater/whatever else submariners have ever called the structure.
Just like with PRS-1 the scopes and antenna do not retract and do not remove.
Unlike with PRS-1 these end in solid rod instead of being open tube which goes all the way in to free-flooding hull interior and sometimes emit bubbles as sub dives below periscope depth.
Am still pondering how exactly I want to do red and green navigation lights on sides of sail.
Need to find a happy balance between what would look cool and how much it would make my hands hurt to do it.
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Rubber band anchor point, motor peg, whatever it can be called is almost done.
This is inside the upper hull half.
Final rod will be brass so as to stall off bimetallic corrosion. Stainless rod was used for visual contrast for construction process and for photo.
Will be 2 motors with each being 3 loops of 3/16 inch wide tan sport rubber for model airplanes.
I've not a clue what the numbers would be but that will put some torque on those new larger props which arrived Friday. :}
With motor anchor being slightly above hull centerline there will be a very slight angle down to the props.
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Instead of progress on the twin screw PRS-2 there has been progress on the 3ft long PRS-3.
Top of hull and the casing had been cut and assembled a few years ago.
Hull has only been designed to about 1.5 inches down from top, below that it remains loosely defined, still needs actual design.
Its look is being inspired by 1913 to 1915 U-Boats.
PRS-3 may be fitted out as a combat sub with deck guns. With or without guns it will carry the circular platforms.
Might carry enough rubber motor to cross a city park pond in a neighboring burg.
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I splurged on a book. Amazon had it on sale for about 23% off.
https://www.usni.org/press/books/us-submarines-through-1945-0 (https://www.usni.org/press/books/us-submarines-through-1945-0)
U.S. Submarines Through 1945
An Illustrated Design History
By Norman Friedman
Subject: Fall 2021 Catalog | Friedman's Illustrated Design Series | Submarines | Drachinifel YouTube Channel - Reading List
Format: Hardcover
Pages: 400
Illustrations: 144 photos, 102 line drawings
Dad got the US Naval Institute's Proceedings magazine when he was in during cold war.
Lots of interesting stuff in there.
And some quality art and photography.
The issues I had kept got water damage in a 1990s apartment fire.
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And speaking of books, paging through The Illustrated Directory of Submarines of the World the photos of early French subs reminded me that the life rings, though oversize, on each side of PRS-1's conning tower are not fictional, they are French!
Well, at least inspired by photos in that book of French subs doing likewise in the 1914 to 1920 era.
Found examples online,
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/40/Romazzotti-Marius_Bar.jpg (https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/40/Romazzotti-Marius_Bar.jpg)
and
https://naval-encyclopedia.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/Lagrange.jpg (https://naval-encyclopedia.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/Lagrange.jpg)
Above image comes from this page,
https://naval-encyclopedia.com/ww1/France/submarines.php
See also submarine DA in page header.
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While there is still about 1/2 hour left in August 31 in our time zone, the End of August Question is,
How much money do I want to spend over time, meaning this winter, for details for PRS-3?
Specifically the deck guns like these 3D prints found,
(and also some of the guys)
https://www.shapeways.com/designer/southwestforests/lists/1-72-scale-figures (https://www.shapeways.com/designer/southwestforests/lists/1-72-scale-figures)
Or, are there appropriate metal guns which would be more durable though less detailed?
Or, can I scratchbuild a 5 inch, a 40mm, and a 20mm, which would be inexpensive, durable, and keep the simplified toylike theme?
Decisions, decisions.
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With your skill Scott, I would say scratch build. You have made a fantastic job so far and I am sure you could make the guns. :-)) :-)) :-))
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I would say scratch build.
Thanks Alan! :-)
While quite nice the 3D printed deck gun parts might be a bit on the brittle side for something which will be actively handled at times. And the primary theme here is fun and broken 3D parts would not be fun.
Now the 3D printed people, yes, I'll get some of them to place on the boat when it is on the shelf.
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And in the most recent episode of "Found while looking for something else", a couple things I thought were no longer in my possession: photocopies from publisher US Naval Institute of ship camouflage articles from 1970s issues for their Proceedings magazine which Dad got while he was in USN during the Cold War.
I called USNI and ordered in mid 1990s after losing original magazines in either a move or when apartment above me burned at beginning of 1990s.
At the time I had begun a new job and it turned out a couple coworkers were working up a set of rules for WW2 naval miniatures wargaming.
So of course I had to get involved!
They knew of ship camouflage painting but not the details of it.
Another thing in the envelope is a booklet bought at a classic combination hardware store-hobby shop in Missouri in late 1980s.
Also in the packet are what look to be my very first idea sketches for PRS-2.
Perhaps I should paint the 36 inch long PRS-3 in K-2/S-33's "pea green with three foot wide purple-violet stripes"? :}
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I am sure you could make the guns.
But I do gotta say, this sure does look neat, and the base shape fits a design theme with PRS-3,
https://www.shapeways.com/product/Y8NXBRZ7G/1-72-usn-4-inch-50-10-2-cm-sub-gun-deck?optionId=117778672&li=shops (https://www.shapeways.com/product/Y8NXBRZ7G/1-72-usn-4-inch-50-10-2-cm-sub-gun-deck?optionId=117778672&li=shops)
And spending the $30 for it saves on doing things with my often painful hands; can apply effort to something else instead.
Edit: Just wrote the designer, said what I'm planning to use his part for, that it will be interesting to conduct an experiment and see how the part stands up to hydrodynamic forces when model is traveling submerged.
Am curious to see what his reply will be.
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A quick post to basically just show off, button hatches now have wheels from old time railway boxcar brakewheels on a short bit of fine brass wire in to hole drilled in button.
Whether the brakewheels are or are not precisely centered and what that meant to society at the time is something which future archaeologists can discuss in their PhD dissertations.
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Quick and simple guides for locating ladder rungs (being primarily a model railroader I keep wanting to say grab irons) from bits of styrene.
The 0.188 inch, 3/16 inch, spacing makes the rungs about 15 inches apart in 1/72 scale, which is the size of figures I am using with the model.
Now all I have to do is drill nice and precisely with a cat whisker thin drill bit ... assuming my hand didn't slant the pencil and make a crooked line ...
(some days that can be a huge assumption with the way my health is)
Made spacers for 1 through 7; to get longer than 7, such as the 12 up the side of the sail simply stack them.
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Three days worth of progress on this, that, and the other thing.
Those 50 ladder rungs did not get applied in one sitting! :}
The single-screw 3-foot boat, named PRS-3, still hasn't had its lower hull designed yet. Sketched, yes; designed, no. Stern will be cutaway under deck and prop will be located about where it sits on deck. Rudder will be aft of prop. That too has yet to be designed. Rubberband motor loops will be about 2 feet, 60cm, long.
White styrene deck pieces are .040 spacing metal siding sheets .040 thick.
Which is a different spacing than used on PRS-1.
Twin screw PRS-2 will get painted like PRS-1. The fully armed PRS-3 will be painted differently.
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Here's the 3 boats together.
PRS-1 is 26 inches, 66cm, long from bow to prop winding eye.
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I was wondering about having a searchlight on at least PRS-3 ...
and just now found ... :} :-))
Title: USS Bass USS Bonita
Description: Photo #: NH 91782 USS Bass (SS-164), outboard, and USS Bonita (SS-165) With civilian visitors on board, at San Francisco, California, May 1932. Photographed by Lauzin. U.S. Naval History and Heritage Command Photograph. Catalog #: NH 91782
https://www.history.navy.mil/content/history/nhhc/our-collections/photography/numerical-list-of-images/nhhc-series/nh-series/NH-91000/NH-91782/_jcr_content/mediaitem/image.img.jpg/1438380621765.jpg (https://www.history.navy.mil/content/history/nhhc/our-collections/photography/numerical-list-of-images/nhhc-series/nh-series/NH-91000/NH-91782/_jcr_content/mediaitem/image.img.jpg/1438380621765.jpg)
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So, how often do you envision submarines lying at anchor with sun canopies/awnings spread out?
https://www.history.navy.mil/content/history/nhhc/our-collections/photography/numerical-list-of-images/nhhc-series/nh-series/NH-56000/NH-56361/_jcr_content/mediaitem/image.img.jpg/1439329895080.jpg
Are several details I'd like to borrow from this boat.
Would also like to build this boat as itself.
Which will likely not eventually happen.
But ... while I'm pondering the proposition ...
in 1/72 scale it would be about 57 inches long.
Revell's 1/72 plastic kit of USS Gato is stated as 54 inches long,
https://www.revell.com/gato-class-submarine.html
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Okay, true, the small boats would be a bit small in real life at that size in proportion to the figures being used, but remember, this thing is 'sport scale'. :}
Boat outlines were drawn on smooth back of textured plastic; cut out; both cutout and opening were sanded to create a defining gap.
Then deck was glued on followed by boat cutouts being glued in to openings.
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Fun and useful things in the mail on Thursday and Saturday. (sure hope my shopping left enough money in the bank for groceries!)
:} There seems a certain manner of Irony in receiving a book about the British Royal Navy on the day a British Royal, the Queen, died; the WW1 submarines book arrived Thursday the 8th. :((
Drill press and camouflage book arrived Saturday the 11th.(light reflection is inconvenient location but the way my defective body is being today I am lucky to get the photo atall)
My 40 year old Dremel rotary tool will not fit, and I tested and it does indeed not fit this drill press, but the press was a good price and I do need it.
Now to see about getting a Dremel which will fit the press.
--> And looking at the camouflage book I think PRS-3, which will be fully armed to 1920s-40s standards, will be painted blue.
Undecided whether lower hull will have black or red antifouling paint.
"The underbody shall be painted with the current issues of bottom antifouling paints."
https://www.shipcamouflage.com/measure_9.htm (https://www.shipcamouflage.com/measure_9.htm)
(yes, I know I'm blending British and American policies here) :}
But doing it red and with a (unrealistic for subs) black boottopping band will accent the length of the 3 foot long PRS-3.
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And while all the pills for coping with bones and muscles which sometimes do undesirable things were at peak effectiveness around 3 am ...
... the strange thing is that I made significant progress on doing a thing for one pool sub.
True, the rails and stanchions are different from what subs of the 20th century used in reality but these are not real subs and that difference is deliberate.
Stanchions were bought last month.
Wire was bought last century, while I worked at auto auction near Kansas City, Missouri.
I had expected that I could pre-curve the wire and just ease it through the stanchions around the 20mm platform.
Hahaha! That is so NOT how the actuality of the task went.
The wire pre-curved just fine ...
... but getting it through the stanchions ...
Still have to make anchors for wires up inside aft end of bridge shield. That is unlikely to happen today.
But stranger things have happened with my life and health ...
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The easiest way is to fit the stanchions to the wire first then fit the stanchions to the deck.
Jim
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Had I felt better at the time that thought might have indeed happened before doing that job, oh well, such is life; but you can be certain I'll remember it from here on! :}
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And ...
Here is where being autistic introduces various and sundry wrinkles in to the living of life ... {:-{
Dad's 82nd birthday is later this month and he wants me to bring these for him to see in person. Now, the finished one he has seen it run in the pool of apartments where I built it back in 2005 but it will make a nice size comparison to the ones in progress.
Okay, yes, I'll be happy to bring them! :}
But ...
Even though the little plastic guys are not real people and the models are not real Navy vessels ...
The idea of packing up the guys was okay ... but ... the idea of getting them on "The Wrong" submarine from the one they have been on was causing me real, actual, physical and mental stress.
A lot of stress. :(( <:(
So ...
A minute's work with a Sharpie marker has made that stress go away.
Put sub hull number, 2 or 3, on bottom of their bases.
I am now a happy camper. :}
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Ahh yes, the insomniac satisfaction of some 3am progress. :}
And if it seems there is a break in railing wire continuity at the center stanchion, you have deduced correctly.
Because of the U-turns the railing wires were worked from each end.
But ...
Given that the little blue plastic navy guy is only 1 inch, 25mm, tall, the offset isn't overly noticeable to the eye.
And yes, both wires are in the stanchion hole.
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Got a pair of platform braces made and installed.
I like the outline they give.
Hmm ...
Am looking here at the larger than real life photo and seeing how a few of the stanchions appear less than perfectly vertical. In their 14 millimeter tall reality it isn't much noticeable to the eye.
And ...
With my having a couple musculoskeletal problems now joined by a neurological autoimmune disease, the option of perfect alignment is no longer on the table; it is a bit of a minor miracle that I'm still good for doing this kind of stuff at all.
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Ahoy mateys! Some 3D printed firepower has just arrived. :}
Along with some doors to select a pair of for placing one each side about where the guy holding fender is.
Doors are printed to have one opening each way, I guess so they can hinge forward on each side of ship.
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Looking good Scott. The 3d stuff looks impressive. :-)) :-))
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The 3d stuff looks impressive.
Thanks Alan!
It is impressive. And 3D printing has done so much for hobbies, crafts, manufacturing.
Upcoming things I want to get are a 20mm, a 40mm,
And I want the radars from this, https://www.shapeways.com/product/BEC4DFD68/1-72-us-gato-radar-antennas-set
Those radars will likely be the next purchase.
Looking at their 3D animation of the tall pylon reveals it has locations for attaching ladder rungs on one side. Its location on model will be right in middle of deck of surface bridge, immediately forward of the deck hatch.
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I still can't get my head around rubber band power but it obviously works! Your builds look great. I'm sure any "Squiffyness" will be covered up in a lick of paint and lost in the rest of the detail you put in.
All the best,
Rich
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I still can't get my head around rubber band power but it obviously works!
Thanks! :}
They are great fun and have been a thing for many, many, decades, even to the point of commercial production with plastic or tin hulls, instead of wood, in several countries.
How about this scratchbuilt wooden one with scratchbuilt counter-rotating screw propellors even, https://youtu.be/ceTxZv8wRgU
A commercially produced rubber band powered submarine, https://flic.kr/p/m1wPpU
Similar boat on Pinterest with a number of other rubber band models shown as suggestions, https://www.pinterest.com/pin/285908276328400305/
Stock photo of commercially produced plastic Regulus missile or similar sub with rubber band power, https://www.alamy.com/vintage-submarine-rubber-band-wind-up-toy-cut-out-image437434203.html
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Hi, the first link above is contra-rotating not counter rotating propellers. That's very impressive! I have some little 6mm diameter bevel brass gears to make some shottel type drives for 20mm props but the scale defeats me just quite yet.. Though I do have a schottel drive that size roughly made so far The gears are very small, about the size of a lentil at most.
Rich
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Hi, the first link above is contra-rotating not counter rotating propellers.
Hmm, all these decades being in to ships and airplanes and I don't think the difference between counter and contra has ever yet stuck in my memory.
A scratchbuilt Schottel drive in a size suitable for a 20mm prop? Now there's a thing which will definitely count as something!
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Hmm, all these decades being in to ships and airplanes and I don't think the difference between counter and contra has ever yet stuck in my memory.
...They're really quite different principles.
I don't want to crowd your thread here, your models look great to me.
Rich
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Will be experiment time when that Dremel drill press gets operational.
Mom & Dad gave me some money so I ordered a newer than 40 year old Dremel rotary tool which will fit in the drill press; my 1980s one doesn't fit the 2020s drill press.
So, the experiment will be ...
Drilling 4 stanchions to make right angle T intersections.
Right angle intersection at stanchion at left of image is a simple super glue join with right-angled railing wires secured in holes in plastic.
Image shows where there will be a right angle stanchion to right angle stanchion bit of railing.
Also, railing over ladder point will get bulged out a bit to give clearance to come up through where there is a small trap door in deck. Yes, some or even none of these details may fully adhere to real-world practices, that's okay and often by design in these builds; sometimes, true, it is by happenstance, but more often than not it is deliberate.
(likewise deliberate is the possibility that this structure might have the feel of something from a pre-dreadnaught battleship)(oh, the pushed-in end of that one ladder rung is now fixed)
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Got tools in the mail today so I played this evening! :-)
Dremel drill press is a big help; thanks Mom & Dad for the money for newer motor tool to fit the press! :}
Began the vent holes with regular 1/8 inch (more or less 3mm) drill bit.
Then moved to a Dremel spiral cutter which looks kind of like a drill bit but isn't, not pictured.
Finished with a scrap of 100 grit sandpaper wrapped around a paintbrush handle.
Took a break to get chicken out of oven, but, I dunno, only 10 to 15 minutes for this job - 2 vent holes, start to finish.
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In bits and pieces overnight what to me is some significant progress was made: the blocks forming fairwater/conning tower/fin/sail/whatever-you-call-the thing-on-this-style-of-submarine were drilled for the periscope shears then stacked and glued.
Process was:
Top of top block had been marked for scope locations. New Dremel drill press was employed to drill it.
Top block was set in place on lower block, tubes for shears were inserted then twisted against lower block to mark it.
Lower block was drilled.
Lower block was used to mark deck for drilling.
--> I'm deliberately doing something here which was done by happenstance on PRS-1, the periscopes are tube and go all the way through in to free-flooding hull; as sub dives they often vent bubbles out unsealed periscope tops. :}
Deck was drilled.
Blocks were stacked on deck, shear tubes inserted, & thin super glue was flowed in to joins.
This assembly is going to STAY assembled! :}
Oh, the open bridge and 20mm platform assembly is not yet glued on.
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Submarine project is pausing while I build a non-boat model kit Julie sent me for my birthday earlier in the year.
But boat stuff has been ordered: handrail stanchions via Harbor Models in California and radar masts and a 40mm gun via Shapeways.
https://www.shapeways.com/product/BEC4DFD68/1-72-us-gato-radar-antennas-set
https://www.shapeways.com/product/ABXF6BN48/1-72-usn-single-40mm-bofors
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That was fast! :-))
At time of ordering yesterday the projected shipping date was October 18th!
"Your Shapeways order is now on its way!
This shipment includes the following item:
Order - 1 x [/color] 1/72 USN Single 40mm Bofors (https://www.shapeways.com/product/ABXF6BN48/1-72-usn-single-40mm-bofors?productConfiguration=64219074&etId=202725091&utm_source=automated-contact&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=order-shipped&utm_content=2) in Smooth Fine Detail Plastic
- 1 x [/color] 1/72 US Gato Radar Antennas Set (https://www.shapeways.com/product/BEC4DFD68/1-72-us-gato-radar-antennas-set?productConfiguration=64219842&etId=202725091&utm_source=automated-contact&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=order-shipped&utm_content=3) in Smooth Fine Detail Plastic
"
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Figure looks interesting Scott. Please post some pictures when complete. :-)) :-))
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Please post some pictures when complete.
Okay. The way things go in my life that will most likely be multiple months away.
In the meantime, here is a brief history of the kit,
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/amt-s956-mr-spock--1296887
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Those radar, periscope, and 40mm gun, parts arrived today :-) but my defective body isn't good for working with them right now {:-{ merely getting to and from the mailbox was a bit of an adventure.
There are 3 parts not in photos.
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Hey Y'all. As you may have already deduced, my messy health has halted progress for the time being.
I'll get back to boatbuilding when able.