Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Navy - Military - Battleships: => Topic started by: Dan on November 20, 2022, 07:01:57 pm
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Hi All,
Now I've finally finished my 1:96 frigate, I want to build something to go with it, but also something a bit different. Therefore I've chosen the previous Royal Navy Flag Ship HMS Ocean. A helicopter landing platform. She was decommissioned back in 2018 then sold on to the Brazilian Navy and is still active today.
As there are no hulls available for this model (from what I'm aware) I have no choice but to make this this my first scratch build. Already just looking at the shape of the hull on the real thing I'm beginning to wonder what I've let myself in for. But I'll have a go and see what happens.
The keel and frames have been made from 9mm ply (when measured was actually 8.2mm) as I felt this would be more sturdy thoughout the whole building process than 5mm. Due to concerns on weight and integrity, the frames were cut as narrow as I dared. Once the hull is complete I plan on removing the majority of the tops of the frames. Although I will leave a couple to use as handles, hopefully making it easier to lower and raise from the lake.
This is as far as I've got for the time being she comes in at 2114mm long x 364mm wide and just about fits in the car.
Cheers,
Dan
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Well Dan, you've certainly made a good start and I hope it all goes well for you.
It'll be great to follow your progress :-))
Ray.
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Thankyou Ray! I値l post updates when I have something worth showing. I知 no expert so things might not be done the way they should be but we値l see what happens. I値l always welcome any advice and/or constructive criticism. There痴 a lot for me to learn on this build. :-))
Cheers,
Dan
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OH WELL DONE Dan i know you said you was thinking of doin this ship but i tbh dint think you would but im really pleased to be proven wrong m8 this should be a cracker if you can build her an watch that top weight an i hope you will have a few things workin on her an if you need any help at all on something just give me a shout an i will try an help you if i can as after building my nimitz carrier i dont think there is to much i dont know on building carriers an i will be following your build dan an good luck :-)) ps its looking good what you have done already great stuff pps dan dont forget to do your cutout in the hul frames for the quadronts to fit in to give the hull strenght an i see you not doin a hull jiont then ?
chrisb
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Many thanks Chris! I got my hands on the drawings and thought I best start it immediately before I talk myself out of it.
I do have a few things planned. The main one being the deck lift. I've been looking at ways I can get this lowering into the hanger and back up. I will be putting plenty of lights on it, maybe look at lowing one of the landing craft too depending on how strong I can make the davits.
I'll be strengthen the hull over the next few days hopefully, then look at getting it covered. There are alot of openings in the hull on this ship, 4 large ones for landing craft. So I'll be looking the strengthen the hull in these areas in particular.
I was very close to making it in two parts and splitting the hull, but I can fit the full length into the car with a bit of room to spare so I decided to build as one in the end.
Cheers
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WELL GOOD LUCK Dan :-)) an take it easy dont try try to hurry it an it will come ATB ps an for your lift ive seen the idea of a scirror jack work by an eletric motor if the lift is in the ship centre :-))
Chrisb
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JUST thinkin Dan are you goin to plank the hull or do a wrap round like i did but its a pity you did not tell me you was doin this build as really your base board should be covered in 2 inch wide strips of shiny selotape as when covering the hull sometimes there is glue drops down onto the bottom hull frames an glues the hull frames to the base board an if that happens well you wont be able to get your hull off the base board thats why i put on shiny selotape so the glue wont stick your hull down but thats my opinion but see how you get on an have good look inside the hull for glue drops quite freqently
ATB
CHRISB :-))
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I was thinking of using a motor to drive the scissor lift Chris but then I saw another way using a servo and some syringes. Quite a simple set up but looks effective. When I'm in a position to fit the lift I'll look into different ways in greater depth.
I think the bow will be planked but I'll then wrap midships and the stern mainly due to the shape of it.
That's a good tip for the tape on the board. Once I've re-enforced the frames, I can remove it off the base board to fit tape so there's no issues there. Thanks for the suggestion! Can I ask what thickness ply you used? I was going to use 0.8mm?
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I was thinking of using a motor to drive the scissor lift Chris but then I saw another way using a servo and some syringes. Quite a simple set up but looks effective. When I'm in a position to fit the lift I'll look into different ways in greater depth.
I think the bow will be planked but I'll then wrap midships and the stern mainly due to the shape of it.
That's a good tip for the tape on the board. Once I've re-enforced the frames, I can remove it off the base board to fit tape so there's no issues there. Thanks for the suggestion! Can I ask what thickness ply you used? I was going to use 0.8mm?
HI again Dan very wise deceion yes remove the hull once qaudrons are fitted an fit that selotape as if you look on my early pics you will see the shiny tape fitted down on the base board an thickness of plywood was 1/32nd ply sheet an when you have firbre glass it inside it will be very strong as it bends very easy but dont forget to paint the outer hull with sandin sealer severall coats to make the hull water proff but if you use 1/16th ply sheet it wont bend at all an very hard work so 1/32nd sheet ply is the best bet GOOD LUCK im really lookin forward to seein you build this great work so far Dan
ATB
Chrisb
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Excellent Model choice Dan.
When Ocean first came into service I was not a Fan of her looks. However, having seen her at Devonport over several years, she grew on me.
I am looking forward to following your progress.
Nige
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Thanks Chris! Yes I'll make sure to seal the hull well. And thanks for confirming the thickness of the sheet, much appreciated :-))
Excellent Model choice Dan.
When Ocean first came into service I was not a Fan of her looks. However, having seen her at Devonport over several years, she grew on me.
I am looking forward to following your progress.
Nige
Thanks Nige I'm hoping the build is useful and enjoyed by a few. I like the fact she's slightly different looking. And that's what I wanted to build, something slightly different.
Thanks again!
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Thanks Chris! Yes I'll make sure to seal the hull well. And thanks for confirming the thickness of the sheet, much appreciated :-))
Thanks Nige I'm hoping the build is useful and enjoyed by a few. I like the fact she's slightly different looking. And that's what I wanted to build, something slightly different.
Thanks again!
THATS OK Dan pleased to help you in anyway i can an yes thats why i built my tiger as she was something different as some people dont like her in the helo carrier vershion but i think she look great as the R/N had plenty of gun ships at the time but no helo carrier an thats why they converted her an the same thinkin again on your OCEAN as helo's now are deadly wepons to sub's an such hence the helo carrier well done R/N :-))
chrisb
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Great progress so far Dan, I'll be following along with your build.
ATB
Garry
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HI DAN anything more done on her ?
chrisb
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Hi Chris,
Very slow progress due to work and family. This is her current state. There are so many sharp lines on this hull, Im going to ply it section by section to try and replicate the lines as accurately as possible. Hopefully I'll get another good go at it over Christmas.
I've also been working on the electrical workings for the deck lift. I've made good progress with this but will put photos up later on in the build.
Cheers
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HI Dan lookin very good indeed an i see you are doin a ply wrap round how i did as i fInd it a lot easyier than plank on frame an you wont have so many holes to fill up afterwards very well done lookin forward to more on this when you can do it ALL THE BEST FOR A NICE XMAS AN NEW YR
CHRIS AN JEN :-))
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Thanks Chris! I may have to do a bit of planking towards the bow, or possibly shape some balsa block. But I'll tackle this in a few weeks. :-))
Thanks Chris, All the best to both of you!
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Bit of an update. The hull has been covered. Took a bit longer than anticipated but it's now ready for filling, shaping and sanding. The majority of it was done in individual sections as I found this easier to bend the 0.8mm ply to the shape of the hull frames. The transition between frames made for some interesting shapes to be cut but once bent round the frames, they'd fit really nice.
I did find I was having to add more supports between the frames for the panels to be fixed. In hindsight I should have realised this before I started panelling.
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I was about half way through panelling the hull and this particular area (I'm sure there's a correct name for it but I don't know it) and I wasn't happy with the way it looked. The real ship has some unique crisp lines, but mine didn't. I had got carried away and not followed the correct shape whilst panelling and simply folded a whole sheet over the frames which where shaped to incorporate the crisp line. So I had to cut away and try and make good of my mistake. I think I just about got away with it
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And this is where I'm at now. You'll notice the bow isn't flush to the base board, but I'll be making this good when the deck goes on. I had a right headache trying to work out the correct shape of the ply that was needed to wrap round. Nothing a bit of filler and more ply won't sort out.
For a first attempt at something like this, I'm fairly happy with the results
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Hi!
I will follow your building ...What kind of wood for the hull ?
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Wow Dan, you can be justifiably proud of your efforts, that hull has turned out really good.
Garry
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That's fantastic progress you've made and when the hull gets filled and sanded smooth you will have a good looking ships hull :-))
Ray.
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Hi!
I will follow your building ...What kind of wood for the hull ?
Hi Chris, thanks! The ply is 1/32nd or 0.8mm ply
And thank you both Gary and Ray for you kind words! :-))
Cheers,
Dan
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HI Dan lookin very good now for the hard part of sealin the hull an all the sandin down but are you goin to F/G her inside ? an may be out side ? how long is she as when this is all finished she will be heavy as if not she wont sit right in the water as it took 50 pound of batt wheight to get my tiger down to where i wanted her but very well done :-)) AN MY TIGER i nearly finished just a few more bits to fit on
Chrisb
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WOW!! Very nice choice for a build. and what a job of sheeting. Well done! Are you planning on F/Ging the hull?
I look forward to seeing your solution for the lift. :-))
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HI Dan lookin very good now for the hard part of sealin the hull an all the sandin down but are you goin to F/G her inside ? an may be out side ? how long is she as when this is all finished she will be heavy as if not she wont sit right in the water as it took 50 pound of batt wheight to get my tiger down to where i wanted her but very well done :-)) AN MY TIGER i nearly finished just a few more bits to fit on
Chrisb
Thanks Chris, she comes in at around 7ft long so it's goi g to need a bit of weight to get it to sit right in the water. Next the plan is to get her sanded and filled to a state I'm happy with, then fiberglass her I side and out. Looking forward to seeing Tiger finished and on the water mate :police:
WOW!! Very nice choice for a build. and what a job of sheeting. Well done! Are you planning on F/Ging the hull?
I look forward to seeing your solution for the lift. :-))
Thank you very much! I wanted something big but slightly different to to usual. I thought it ticked these boxes quite well. Yes she'll be fiberglassed inside and out. I have a few sketches drawn up for the lift, the electrical side of it is done, so I'm looking forward to the point I can put it all together and install it. That could be some time yet though :-)
Cheers,
Dan
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Don....I don't think your build with flattish hull plates, then add an angular box was not necessarily an incorrect way to achieve like for like with the actual Ocean hull profiles
I suspect if you were able to go back to the original Dockyard Hull drawings, you would find a similar form of construction that you have achieved :-))
That image you show of Ocean in service would make an interesting alternate to a pristine clean vessel
As an alternate point, Ocean cleaply has a blunt end, but full stern hull...will be interesting to see her shaft geometry
Following on.....
Derek
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Thanks Derek! I do prefer the look of a working vessel over a freshly painted one, this is something I'll consider at a much later date, but I don't think my painting skills would do it much justice.
A few weeks before the shafts are in bull I'll post updates when they do :-))
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Good progress Dan, I like your work (as well as as your tidy Workshop 😀).
Nige
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Thanks Nige, it won't stay tidy for long :embarrassed:
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HI Dan anymore done on this build? or are you still sandin down the hull ?
chrisb :-))
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Hi Chris, no real update unfortunately, work and family life taking priority at the moment leaving very little time to get any work done on her. I knew this would be the case when I started her, but I'm in no rush :-))
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Hi Chris, no real update unfortunately, work and family life taking priority at the moment leaving very little time to get any work done on her. I knew this would be the case when I started her, but I'm in no rush :-))
OK Dan take your time an enjoy your family life
chrisb
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Hi all,
It's been a while, I've struggled to make any real progress. However the hulls the right way up and ready for fiberglassing. I'll be using a fibreglass mesh on the exterior and a mat on the interior. Here are the latest photos.
I'm not sure but I think I missed a few replies on here, apologies if I have missed any comments or replies, it's not been intentional.
Cheers, Dan
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Nice, well done Dan.
Nige
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HI Dan yes you have done very well on your hull an oh F/G oh how i hate that pong even with a mask an glasses on but the sooner you get stuck in the sooner you will finish her as i did on my tiger an i will soon be launchin her when warm wheather gets here but you are doin great but could you please just do a couple of pics at a time as it gets a bit tedious goin up an down to find the slide bar to move your pic across so i can see all your lovley work on that hull :-))
chrisb
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Beautiful work :-))
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Nice, well done Dan.
Thanks Nige!
Beautiful work :-))
Thanks Phil! Not perfect but I'm happy with it!
HI Dan yes you have done very well on your hull an oh F/G oh how i hate that pong even with a mask an glasses on but the sooner you get stuck in the sooner you will finish her as i did on my tiger an i will soon be launchin her when warm wheather gets here but you are doin great but could you please just do a couple of pics at a time as it gets a bit tedious goin up an down to find the slide bar to move your pic across so i can see all your lovley work on that hull :-))
chrisb
Thanks Chris! I've done fiberglassing once before but no where near this size! I do think it'll be a few summers yet before this ones in the water {-) I'm looking forward to seeing Tiger on the water! I'll be keeping an eye out for updates.
Cheers, Dan
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Hi ya Dan
I still marvel at people like yourself and Nick B and his dad and others who build hulls using plywood to skin them and get the plywood to bend around the radius without twisting the frames out of shape. Hats off to you gents.
Just a thought for you; have you thought about using the Zap Zpoxy ? along with the extremely light woven roven matting that the aircraft guys use to cover their wings? on the outside of your hull. you would only need about 3 coats to give you a nice smooth finish. I would also use pure resin with hardener to coat the inside of your hull to seal it. This (in my opinion) is all that you would require because you are obtaining the strength from the plywood that you have used for your hull.
The other resin, I don't know if you have read about it/heard/used is the Deluxe Water based resin. This has virtually no smell to it when using it - similar to the Zap Zpoxy. one of the big advantages to the Deluxe stuff is that you wash your brushes out in water. When I have used the Deluxe stuff in the past - I have had to use 2 or 3 more coats of the stuff - to obtain a similar finish to what I have found with the Zpoxy resin. When I have used the Deluxe resin, I have also had to leave it approx 3 or 4 days to harden right off; before I can attack it with any sandpaper or wet n dry.
One of the hulls I am building at the moment, I have used 3 or 4 coats of Zpoxy on it - just to get a decent finish. I have left it for a while now waiting for me to energise myself to attack hull and finish it off.
Food for thought, as they say :-)
Keep posting the pictures, I myself have always fancied having a crack at HMS Ocean.
john
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Hi John!
I think it's luck that this hasn't warped, I've not built a scale hull before now. Beginners luck perhaps {-) but thank you for your kind words.
I've not used Zap Zpoxy before, I was planning on using easy composites laminating resin. Out of curiousity what are the dimensions of that hull, and how much Zpoxy did you require? As I have no idea how much resin to actually order.
I will be using 100gmｲ woven mesh which I hope should be ok. (Alot of firsts for me on this build so alot of guess work going on :embarrassed: )
The more I look and think of the inside of the hull I am in two mind whether or not to fiberglass it. Again I was going on the assumption it would add strength and with the weight of the model and batteries I thought strength would be a main goal. The ply is only 0.8mm so I'm unsure how much strength is actually there.
I've not heard of the deluxe resin but will certainly look into it, thanks.
There will be plenty of photos but it won't be a quick build unfortunately but thanks for your interest. I chose Ocean because of its slightly unusual shape, size and rarity, you dont see them often. The only evidence I've seen of another model was one photo from (off the top of my head) 2006. I'd love to know if there are any others about.
Cheers,
Dan
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hi Dan
The dimensions of the hull I am in the process of building are - 63 inches long x 'can't remember the width' {:-{
The hull is 1:48 scale Castle Class Corvette. I built it a while - I used roughly one box of the Zpoxy - the box has 2 bottles in it - the hardener and the resin which you mix in equal portions.
What I found and like about Zpoxy (even though it is expensive) is it is not too particular about the temperature that you are working in. Also, it is quite easy to mix - one to one ratio - hardener and resin - with very little smell to it.
Where I think I went wrong though with this hull is I applied the resin first and then the matting over the top of the wet resin. Then I tried to draw the resin through the matting by stappling. When I watch people using it on aircraft (on YouTube) they were laying the matting on the wing and then putting the resin over and working it over with a stiff piece of plastic - the method I used required a lot of resin on this hull.
You will find that some people can work with polyester resin like I do quite easily. But, then I spent a portion of my working life working with fibre glass and resins.
Where a lot of people make mistakes with polyester resins, is they think aw its a bit cold and add a touch more hardener to the resin and sometimes it goes off either too quick or doesn't go off at all. So it is a bit more of a faff to work with. I would, if you haven't worked with it too much before, practice on a smaller hull and if things do go wrong it is not too difficult to clean off.
Normally, on hulls, I will use Zpoxy on the outside and a polyester resin on the inside of the hull without any matting or anything on the inside.
John
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It's a great build that'll look superb on the wet stuff. On the subject of ease of covering, one thing you find on some of the Youtube videos of surfboard building is the use of a light coat of spray-mount to hold the mat in place while you apply the resin. Spay the dry hull, let it set and the woven mat can be laid on and re-positioned as needed. I've found that it just makes the whole thing a lot easier.
TonyH
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hi Dan
he hull is 1:48 scale Castle Class Corvette. I built it a while - I used roughly one box of the Zpoxy - the box has 2 bottles in it - the hardener and the resin which you mix in equal portions.
What I found and like about Zpoxy (even though it is expensive) is it is not too particular about the temperature that you are working in. Also, it is quite easy to mix - one to one ratio - hardener and resin - with very little smell to it.
Where I think I went wrong though with this hull is I applied the resin first and then the matting over the top of the wet resin. Then I tried to draw the resin through the matting by stappling. When I watch people using it on aircraft (on YouTube) they were laying the matting on the wing and then putting the resin over and working it over with a stiff piece of plastic - the method I used required a lot of resin on this hull.
John
A way often used to reduce the amount of epoxy resin needed in skinning is to first use thinned resin. I find a roughly one to one mix of resin to thinner works well. Brush this onto the hull first, it will soak into the wood and when it sets it will seal the pores in the wood. Then cover with glass cloth and resin, either using a brush or an old credit card to spread the resin. None of the resin will now soak into the wood so less is needed, use just enough resin to wet the glass, if it looks white it needs more resin. Once it has set, give it a light sanding then another coat of resin, this should seal the cloth and give a smooth surface, some use a hair drier at this stage to help the resin flow. A third coat can be used after a light sanding if needed although a suitable primer should do the job.
Jim
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Hi Dan,
You are doing very well indeed considering your methods which the plate makers back in the day would be proud of (and slightly jealous that your plates don't weigh hundreds of pounds and are not as hot as hell! )
I agree with Chris, you have to pace yourself and remember that it's a hobby which sometimes comes to a juddering halt for 'an' amount of time. I always find it nice to have some side projects going, such as weapons or bits of superstructure so if you get a bit bored, or have to wait for some materials, you can get on with something else.
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hi Dan
The dimensions of the hull I am in the process of building are - 63 inches long x 'can't remember the width' {:-{
The hull is 1:48 scale Castle Class Corvette. I built it a while - I used roughly one box of the Zpoxy - the box has 2 bottles in it - the hardener and the resin which you mix in equal portions.
What I found and like about Zpoxy (even though it is expensive) is it is not too particular about the temperature that you are working in. Also, it is quite easy to mix - one to one ratio - hardener and resin - with very little smell to it.
Where I think I went wrong though with this hull is I applied the resin first and then the matting over the top of the wet resin. Then I tried to draw the resin through the matting by stappling. When I watch people using it on aircraft (on YouTube) they were laying the matting on the wing and then putting the resin over and working it over with a stiff piece of plastic - the method I used required a lot of resin on this hull.
You will find that some people can work with polyester resin like I do quite easily. But, then I spent a portion of my working life working with fibre glass and resins.
Where a lot of people make mistakes with polyester resins, is they think aw its a bit cold and add a touch more hardener to the resin and sometimes it goes off either too quick or doesn't go off at all. So it is a bit more of a faff to work with. I would, if you haven't worked with it too much before, practice on a smaller hull and if things do go wrong it is not too difficult to clean off.
Normally, on hulls, I will use Zpoxy on the outside and a polyester resin on the inside of the hull without any matting or anything on the inside.
John
Thanks for the info John, I really appreciate it! That gives me a rough idea of how much resin I should look at ordering! I'm working in a unheated garage so Zpoxy might be the way forward. I plan on sealing the hull first, then once that dries apply the cloth and resin. I'll post updates as I do it :-))
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It's a great build that'll look superb on the wet stuff. On the subject of ease of covering, one thing you find on some of the Youtube videos of surfboard building is the use of a light coat of spray-mount to hold the mat in place while you apply the resin. Spay the dry hull, let it set and the woven mat can be laid on and re-positioned as needed. I've found that it just makes the whole thing a lot easier.
TonyH
Thanks for the kind words Tony! That's a interesting tip! I take it the spray mount doesn't effect the bonding of the resin to the hull? I'll definitely look into it as trying to lay over 2m of cloth I imagine is going to be quite tricky and move when I don't want it to {-)
Cheers,
Dan
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A way often used to reduce the amount of epoxy resin needed in skinning is to first use thinned resin. I find a roughly one to one mix of resin to thinner works well. Brush this onto the hull first, it will soak into the wood and when it sets it will seal the pores in the wood. Then cover with glass cloth and resin, either using a brush or an old credit card to spread the resin. None of the resin will now soak into the wood so less is needed, use just enough resin to wet the glass, if it looks white it needs more resin. Once it has set, give it a light sanding then another coat of resin, this should seal the cloth and give a smooth surface, some use a hair drier at this stage to help the resin flow. A third coat can be used after a light sanding if needed although a suitable primer should do the job.
Jim
Thanks for the advice Jim :-)) I am going to try and seal the hull first
Cheers
Dan
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Hi Dan,
You are doing very well indeed considering your methods which the plate makers back in the day would be proud of (and slightly jealous that your plates don't weigh hundreds of pounds and are not as hot as hell! )
I agree with Chris, you have to pace yourself and remember that it's a hobby which sometimes comes to a juddering halt for 'an' amount of time. I always find it nice to have some side projects going, such as weapons or bits of superstructure so if you get a bit bored, or have to wait for some materials, you can get on with something else.
Thank you for your kind words! I thought it might be easier than plank on frame given the size. They might not have been heavy but a few were a pain to try and fit tidy given the curvature.
Work and family do take up alot of my time so I'm finding work comes in waves. I have a good week or two on it then other commitments take priority. At the moment I struggle to find time for the main project let alone side projects {-) however there are alot of smaller items that need building that I might look at before the main hull and structure are completed. Like the landing craft for example.. we'll see.
Cheers,
Dan
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You have built a Nice clean hull there Dan. :-))
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Hi there Dan, it'll be interesting to see which way you go regarding the hull coatings inside and out. Hope it all goes well for you, whichever way you choose - following along... :-))
Ray.
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Thank you Dave, glad you think so!
And thank you too Ray! I'll obviously posting updates when the time comes.
Should anyone be interested here's a timelapse video Ive done. It's not the best, it took me practically until the end to find the right camera settings. It didn't like my garage lighting
https://youtu.be/15231P8ltTo
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Hi Dan
Last but not least, everyone will give you information on what to do and how to do it - and that my friend is one of the worst things of a forum - because, you will have so much information - you don't know what to do for the best.
As an old guy once said to me years ago, when the West system first came into the UK and we were on about trying to spray the West system through spray guns and we were on about thinning the stuff down and the rep said if it was meant to be thinner they would make it thinner - so, if you work with what you have you will master it. So, my advice to you is, if you are not 100% happy with Zpoxy don't try and thin it down - because all sorts of things can go wrong - even with the best advice.
There is a link here to when I built my tug and I used resin which I purchased from Halfords (they sell it for car repairs as you know) and also I also used 2 tins of this stuff to cover the hull of HMS Exeter - which - if you are interested my build is on this Forum. (The WW2 Exeter)
https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,7947.msg77358.html#msg77358 (https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,7947.msg77358.html#msg77358)
HMS EXETER BUILD 1939 (modelboatmayhem.co.uk) (https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,33734.0.html)
john
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Thanks John! I always find it interesting to hear the different techniques people will use which ultimately leads to the same outcome. Gives food for thought.
When I get a few minutes I'll definitely have a read over your thread!
Thanks again!
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I enjoyed your build video! I remain impressed with your manipulating those sheets of ply to form the plates and cannot wait to see other parts starting to grow on your workbench.
She looks nice and even with no warping or twisting, Nice.
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I enjoyed your build video! I remain impressed with your manipulating those sheets of ply to form the plates and cannot wait to see other parts starting to grow on your workbench.
She looks nice and even with no warping or twisting, Nice.
Glad to hear you liked the video! Very few of the sheets of ply were cut 'square'. Each sheet was cut to match the curvature of the hull frames where it would sit. Once in place it sits over half the frame, allowing the next sheet to butt up to it nice and tightly. It was then pinned as the glue set.
Attached is a photo of one of the ply sheets cut to match the curvature of the frames on which it sat.
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It shows the effort required to get the shapes right. Neat work Dan.
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Hi all, I have a problem. I've fiberglassed the hull with limited success. The hull had a coat of resin and was left to dry for a few days before a quick sanding down, all seemed fine. I then applied a fiberglass cloth with resin, mixed exactly as instructed. After a few days you could tell it had set but it was very slightly tacky. So I did some research and it suggested it might be the mixing ratio was wrong or I hadn't mixed the two for long enough. I was confident it wasn't this, but incase I went and purchased a new digital scales as I read I could simply apply a second coat of resin to rectify the issue. Over a week has past since the second coat has been applied to the cloth and again it's very so slightly tacky to touch. There's no residue on my hands after touching it, but it's clogging my sanding pads pretty quick.
So do I try a 3rd coat, but apply it to the hull in the house where it's warmer than the garage?
The cloth that over hangs the hull that I'll be cutting off has gone off solid. So I'm not sure what the issue is. Has anyone got any advice they could offer please?
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Are you using a laminating resin or a surfacing resin?
Regards Ian.
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Hi Ian,
Laminating resin I've used
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Have you tried washing the hull? Many epoxies produce amine blush - a waxy coating on the surface - especially in cool or damp conditions. This coating feels sticky to the touch even though the resin has fully cured. The amine blush washes off with soap and water. Try that, and see if things get better. (Strictly speaking, you should wash this off before applying another coat, although in my limited experience it is not fatal if you fail to do this.)
Hope that helps.
Greg
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Hi Greg, thanks for the info, I wasn't aware of that. I have given it a wash down and it does feel slightly better, but I think I'm going to try sanding it down and applying one more coat and see where that leaves me.
Cheers,
Dan
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AN HI Dan loved your vid wish i could have worked that fast when building tiger lol but yes i see your problem regards stickyness on the resin but if i was you dont stick to much more on the hull as it will get heavy very quick an you have got to think about liftin her esp as she is in one bit when she is complete an glad to see you coervered your hull like i did with the ply wrap rounds i call it an its so much easyier than plank on frame as when done you have nowhere near so many holes to fill up an your hull has come up bueatifull VERY WELL DONE my freind an im lookin forward to seein more of this grasefull carrier as you go as i know what you are goin through like i did when i built my USS NIMITZ as that was a big headacke but got there in the end an to my amazement she sailed great for 3 yrs till i sold her as she was gettin on so keep your posts comin as im enjoyin seein it an i will also have a look at JOHN'S build as this also looks a very nice model
ATB Dan to you an your wife an family
chrisb an jen :-))
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AN hi again Dan loved lookin at your ocean hull but this is just my opinion but if i was you id fit a bow thruster in her even if the real ship hasnt got one as you can do it now easy but onece built it wont be as remember thats a big hull an will be high out of the water an the wind blowin the hull about will play havoc with how you want her to stay in the water as thats the reason i fitted one in my tiger but up to you on that
chrisb :-))
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Dan
How about this then, all metal Ocean
South Wales Aviation Museum
Bob
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/05/08/IMG_1628.jpg)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/05/08/IMG_1627.jpg)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/05/08/IMG_1626.jpg)
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Hi Chris,
Glad you liked the video and how the hulls looking. If I could work that fast I'd have completed it by now {-)
The drawings show a bow thruster so I do plan on installing one. This will be installed next when I do the running gear which I have recently ordered.
Hi Bob,
Thanks for sharing these photos! Woods hard enough to work with, I can't imagine the headaches of working with metal! I didn't realise that museum existed, it's not to far from me so can definitely see a visit in the not to distant future!
Cheers,
Dan
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Dan
its well worth a visit, I was blown away by it, they have virtually no restriction on aircraft access, so you can touch and walk around and under, amazing and friendly staff.
Bob
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HI Dan anything like an update on her ?
chrisb :-))
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Hi Chris,
I'm still filling and sanding but I don't think I'm too far away from finishing it. I now have my props and shafts to fit so I'm keen to get the hull don't so I can get these in!
Cheers,
Dan
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Keep up the good work Dan! You will have her absolutely fair as in no time. Don't breathe that dust in though eh?
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Dan,
I know it痴 a pain when the resining does not do what you need, but just take your time with the filling an sanding it will be worth it in the end :-))
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Thanks both, it's testing but I'll get there! And I'm doing my best not to breath any dust in. Mask is on when needed :-))
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Progress has finally been made after hours and hours of mind numbing sanding. It's now somewhat close to where I want it.
Next will be cutting out any openings needed, fitting the prop shafts and rudders and fitting the main deck.
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OH Great work Dan her hull looks fab but she's gonna be heavy to get her down in the water hope you have a freind to help you lift her in an out of car an pond brilliant work my young freind dont seem all that long ago that i see you come on the old warships models uk an you was only about 15 yrs old an buildin campbeltown boy the yrs have flown an i was ony middle aged then but old now <:(
keep up the good work
chrisb
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Hi Chris, thanks very much! There's a few bits that didn't turn out exactly how I was hoping but im still happy regardless. I'll find a way. I will more than likely carry it into the water with my waders on. However that's a long way off so have plenty of time to find a way :-))
Your only as young as you feel but the 15 years have gone quick and alot has changed. We welcomed our second child late last week so progress will be slow for a few months I expect. But I'm in no rush :-))
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OH CONGRATS Dan on your second littlen tell your wife well done from jen an i
ATB to you an your family
chrisb
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Congratulations Dan! It is a he or she?
The hull looks great now you have popped a coat of primer over all that effort in fairing. The hole cutting will be fun as it marks the beginning of all the detailing and building ahead.
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Thank you both very much! A little boy this time, so that's one of each.
And I am looking forward to doing something other than sanding now! I'm glad to see the back of it {-)
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It is a chore we endure to advance, and I reckon it is like a test of enthusiasm for the project as a whole.
Hooray! One of each. That's fab Dan.
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Evening all,
I've managed to sneak out the house for a hour to build some rudders and fit the running gear.
The rudders started off as bits of 9mm ply. The shape of the rudders drawn onto each face and simply sanded into shape on my bench sander. Unfortunately I didn't take any photos of this process but it can be seen in my next video of the build.
The running gear was then fitted and was fairly straightforward taking measurements from the centerline of the hull to insure everything was installed symmetrically. Next will be to fill around the shaft and A frames. Then moving on to cutting out the openings in the hull and the installation of the bow thruster.
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HI young Dan very nice work on your props an rudder fittments well done my freind but as you are at this point of the build please dont make the mistake that i have done make sure u can fit bigger props if needed as when ocean is finished she will be heavy like my tiger as u got to be to make her sit down in the water proberly as that wide big hull will be very bouyant like my tiger was an will require a lot of wheight to make her sit down to her W/L AN LOOKIN at your rudders
fittings i cant see any rubber seals to stop water ingress on them
ATB
chrisb :-))
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Dan can you tell me where you bought your props from ?
chrisb
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Hi Chris, I've seen your predicament with your props, hope you get it sorted without too much hassle! Fortunately if needed I can easily go up a extra 10mm in diameter with mine. I've gone for the size on the drawings which is 45mm although did question myself if I may need to go bigger. I won't know until I get it on the lake.
The props were made by George at Sitek props. I explained what I was building and what I needed and he was very helpful and there was a quick turnaround. So I was pleased, also very pleased with the quality too.
You have a good eye, there isn't any rubber seals on the rudders yet but there will be :-))
Cheers
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HI again Dan could you please tell me the no. of the props an pitch of yours they look just like i need an are they 4mm thread ? an gorge sitecks phone no. cheers
chrisb :-))
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I've sent you a message with the contact info Chris :-))
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I've sent you a message with the contact info Chris :-))
cheers Dan many thanks ive just sent him an email but did u pay by paypal ?
chrisb
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A small update. Installation of the stabilizers.
I plan on having these working off a gyro. I doubt they'll make any difference to the performance, it's more of a I'll do it because why not.
These were shaped from solid bits of ply (didn't actually take photos of the before) then a nut glued in the entrence.ofnthe drilled hole to take the threaded shaft just so I didn't rely entirely on the epoxy holding the rods in the stabilizer. These won't retract into the hull but I have included the cut out in the hull just so it looks like the full size ship.
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WELL done Dan my freind them stabs look good an you maybe suprised at how good the stabs work as mine work quite good on all my ships but i must admit i make mine a bit overscale so they do bite in the water to help stability lovely work keep it comin :-))
chrisb
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Wow that is some advanced boat modelling tech there! I can see how you could have them retract and still work without too much trouble but its making everything watertight or leak minimal that would be a challenge.
Lovely job Dan!
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WELL done Dan my freind them stabs look good an you maybe suprised at how good the stabs work as mine work quite good on all my ships but i must admit i make mine a bit overscale so they do bite in the water to help stability lovely work keep it comin :-))
chrisb
Thanks Chris, it'll be interesting to see if it does make a difference, I'll try it with and without the gyro turned on to see if theres a noticeable difference.
Wow that is some advanced boat modelling tech there! I can see how you could have them retract and still work without too much trouble but its making everything watertight or leak minimal that would be a challenge.
Lovely job Dan!
Thank you! There are a few ways I could make them retractable and I was tempted but like you say, keeping it watertight may be bit of a struggle. So getting them to rotate is enough stress for me :D Thanks again
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You are doing a fantastic job :-))
Everything is neat and tidy and looks well planned out. Keep up the excellent work.
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You are doing a fantastic job :-))
Everything is neat and tidy and looks well planned out. Keep up the excellent work.
Thank you very much for your kind words Nick!
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Dan very well done on them stabs very neat an ive never seen this giro that you are thinkin of fittin that will work them stabs is this what they call a sub teck ? an a link to it please as ive never seen them
ATB PS hope your new little un is happy an ok
chrisb :-))
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Thanks Chris. The gyro is a 3 axis electronic gyro that I've used in RC planes to keep them flying straight and level. The ailerons on the plane are very similar to the stabilizers on the ship. As the plane rolls the gyro controls the ailerons to keep the plane level which is exactly what I want the ship stabilizers to do. So I'll simply plug my stabiliser servos into the aileron channel. There's probably sub stabilisers I could use but I know how to work these ones so sticking with what I know in hope I can transfer the function from a plane to a ship.
The gyro is ｣15 on eBay if you search 3 axis gyro
And little lad is doing great thank you!
Cheers :-))
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Thanks Chris. The gyro is a 3 axis electronic gyro that I've used in RC planes to keep them flying straight and level. The ailerons on the plane are very similar to the stabilizers on the ship. As the plane rolls the gyro controls the ailerons to keep the plane level which is exactly what I want the ship stabilizers to do. So I'll simply plug my stabiliser servos into the aileron channel. There's probably sub stabilisers I could use but I know how to work these ones so sticking with what I know in hope I can transfer the function from a plane to a ship.
The gyro is ｣15 on eBay if you search 3 axis gyro
And little lad is doing great thank you!
Cheers :-))
OK CHEERS DAN
CHRISB
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Just bought one of these Gyros on Ebay Dan for AUD$21. Hope to do some bench testing soon, thanks for the tip.
Nige
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Hi Dan
Hope you don't mind me throwing this at you on your thread. This is the same as I fitted into HMS Tiger to control the stabilisers, and your post has promoted me to have a go again.
Question I assume that ail 1 and 2 connect in our case to port and starboard servos to control the stabilisers, but were does the ail link go? Stabilisers at present are linked to the rudders, so will it be that channel, if so does it mean I need an extra channel?
It was a long time ago when I set them up in Tiger.
Regards
Bob
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/09/09/IMG_2330.jpg)
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Apologies for the late reply gents!
Just bought one of these Gyros on Ebay Dan for AUD$21. Hope to do some bench testing soon, thanks for the tip.
Nige
Please let me know how you get on Nige!
Hi Dan
Hope you don't mind me throwing this at you on your thread. This is the same as I fitted into HMS Tiger to control the stabilisers, and your post has promoted me to have a go again.
Question I assume that ail 1 and 2 connect in our case to port and starboard servos to control the stabilisers, but were does the ail link go? Stabilisers at present are linked to the rudders, so will it be that channel, if so does it mean I need an extra channel?
It was a long time ago when I set them up in Tiger.
Regards
Bob
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/09/09/IMG_2330.jpg)
Hi Bob, again sorry for the delayed reply!
I've not used your gyro before but I'm assuming the aileron link from the RX plugs into AIL and then your two servos plug into the AIL 1 and AIL 2. So you shouldn't need any more channels but you will probably need to set it up on your transmitter too.
Where as the one I'm using only has one aileron output on the gyro so im going to have to find a way to use the one channel for a servo on each stabilizer.
Cheers, Dan
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Dan thanks for reply, problem with that gyro it simply gives a kick to the offending part, I had hoped for something more proportional so that as the hull rights itself the gyro reasserts itself, maybe someone reading this might know more. using one servo could you not put and arm on it so that as gyro kicks in it pushes one forward and pulls the other back ?
Bob
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Could you not use a sub self leveller but use it across the hull
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It looks like that gyro is what is termed a rate gyro, these are intended to reduce any movement but not correct it. You need a heading hold gyro, this senses the level position on startup and will try and correct any movement away from this, once releveled it centers the controls. These are generally used by helicopters especially on the tail rotor and are less useful on fixed wing unless they are doing certain aerobatic manouvers. Many of the more expensive gyros have the option of switching between rate and heading hold setrtings.
Jim
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Dan thanks for reply, problem with that gyro it simply gives a kick to the offending part, I had hoped for something more proportional so that as the hull rights itself the gyro reasserts itself, maybe someone reading this might know more. using one servo could you not put and arm on it so that as gyro kicks in it pushes one forward and pulls the other back ?
Bob
Right sorry Bob I'm with you know and understand what you mean. I was under the impression that this unit would correct the movement in a proportional way. But as Jim has pointed out this isn't the case. So I may have to look at a plan B. Thanks for the info Jim, I feel as though you've saved me alot of frustration trying to make something work that won't :-))
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Were there once electro mechanical (or even just mechanical) stabilisers available using a pendulum and linkages to the stabilisers? I suppose that would just impart another wobble!
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Were there once electro mechanical (or even just mechanical) stabilisers available using a pendulum and linkages to the stabilisers? I suppose that would just impart another wobble!
If that would be true no one would use such a system. These systems really only have 2 possible outcomes: either they work or they make things worse, when it makes things worse the stabilizers need to be connected the other way around. Only downside of this system is that it needs waterflow to be able to actually have effect for obvious reasons. And the pendulum would need to be made just heavy enough to move the stabilizers (easy enough when the pendulum is connected to a sensor), so it's effect will not be noticable when at anchor or at the dock. The weight of these pendulums should not be so much that it really makes a difference in the weight of the ship. Mount it as low as possible and it will effect the stability even less, since the height above the center of gravity also has quite an impact on the stability. For example, a weight of 500gr at the bottom against the side of the hull can have hardly any effect at all where as the same weight at the same horizontal position but then as high up as possible might even be able to make the ship capsize. Mind you, if that weight is hanging in the crane the location of the weight becomes irrelevant, only the location where the hoisting wire last makes contact with the ship.
Greetings Josse
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hi there, I don't know if this will help at all - but - I used the same Orange Giro Unit - which has been mentioned in a previous thread on here. I used this in HMS Lindisfarne to operate the stabilisers on her. There is a selection where you can switch and it just operates as a sole unit or, as I have it, wired up through a Y lead to the rudder servo. Therefore, when the rudder is operated and the boat lists the stabilisers work and adjust accordingly.
Picture of the internals of Lindisfarne.
Hand on heart - are they worth it? Alright (in my opinion) as a gimmick.
John
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Were there once electro mechanical (or even just mechanical) stabilisers available using a pendulum and linkages to the stabilisers? I suppose that would just impart another wobble!
Early sub auto levellers used a fore and aft pendulum with an optical sensor recording its movement. The output from the sensor went to some electronics which in turn operated a servo which moved the rear dive planes . I still have one somewhere but no idea if it works.
Ralph
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If I remember correctly they were called "Salcons"
Cheers
Geoff
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HI Dan anything happening on her ?
chrisb
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Hi all,
Not much to report Chris, feels like I've done alot, but just more repetitive work cutting all the openings up in the hull. Now I'm planning the easiest way to fix all the individual decks in place.
Cheers,
Dan
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Hi all,
Not much to report Chris, feels like I've done alot, but just more repetitive work cutting all the openings up in the hull. Now I'm planning the easiest way to fix all the individual decks in place.
Cheers,
Dan
OK Dan but she's lookin good with the apertures cutout
hope your family are all ok
chrisb
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Yes all good thank you Chris! Constantly trying to find those few minutes to slip away to the garage to get a bit more done on ocean. Hope you and Jen are keeping well!
Cheers!
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They would be like side ways tubs, so I would make them from five bits of plastic with well roughed up edges and outer lips to allow the glue and any filler to adhere them to the hull.
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Never looked at them like that until now, thanks for the idea!
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HI Dan whats happening on her then ?
chrisb
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Hi Chris,
Not much change at the moment. Although the bow thruster has been roughly fitted and I'm toying with the layout of the electrical components. Other than that slow progress at the moment I'm afraid. Here's how she is currently...
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Hi Chris,
Not much change at the moment. Although the bow thruster has been roughly fitted and I'm toying with the layout of the electrical components. Other than that slow progress at the moment I'm afraid. Here's how she is currently...
HI Dan lookin at your motors what are you goin to have belt drive on them ? an are them batts 12 v 12amh ? as they are what i have in my Tiger an plenty of power an good ballast to get that big hull down in the water
chrisb
chrisb
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Hi Chris,
I'm going to try running a 2:1 ratio. If I'm not happy with it I'll have a play about changing the ratio to see how it performs. And yes 12v 12ah batteries for the ballast and plenty of running time. Although it's already a heavy ship, I'll definitely have to look at building a trolley.
At the moment I'm Looking for the correct red under the waterline. Any suggestions? I used red oxide primer on my frigate with some good coats of lacquer. This time I'd rather use a harder paint.
Cheers, Dan
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Hi Chris,
I'm going to try running a 2:1 ratio. If I'm not happy with it I'll have a play about changing the ratio to see how it performs. And yes 12v 12ah batteries for the ballast and plenty of running time. Although it's already a heavy ship, I'll definitely have to look at building a trolley.
At the moment I'm Looking for the correct red under the waterline. Any suggestions? I used red oxide primer on my frigate with some good coats of lacquer. This time I'd rather use a harder paint.
Cheers, Dan
HI Dan well ive always use the car red oxide paint an yes it does chip off but i soon touch it up maybe a red gloss paint may be better better
for your use an satisfaction ?
chrisb
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I always use Humbrol, matt red wine no 73 as it gives a deeper red which I think looks more realistic. Then sometimes a matt or satin varnish on top for extra protection.
Cheers
Geoff
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hi there
I have used Humbrol No. 70 Brick Red overcoated with Satin varnish and this seems to have stood the test of time on a few models.
In the past I have used White Ensign paints, however, I note they are now based over in the USA now - not sure of the prices of paint/postage to the UK would be - but they have Hull Red paint.
John
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Thank you all. I値l look at these options. I think Matt will give it a more accurate look. What ever option I go for will be lacquered over. :embarrassed:
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White ensign paints are now sovereign hobbies
https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/ (https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/)
I have bought stuff from them and found them easy to use.
I would recommend them but you need to
Read the instructions for application as you will need to thin the paint.
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AN HI again Dan been lookin at the pic of your eletrics an notice you have 3 ESC'S now what is there two ESC'S to work your motors an one to work your bowthruster yea ? an are they all BEEC ? as i had qiute a bit of problems with these BEEC ESC'S so i hope you get on ok with them
:-))
chrisb
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Hi Chris, yes one for each motor, and one for the bow thruster. And yes all BEC. Not had a set up like this before so it's a first for me. I will let you know how I get on. Unfortunately I've not been able to work on it for a few weeks now. Hopefully over Christmas I'll be able to get stuck in again.
Cheers, Dan
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Hi Chris, yes one for each motor, and one for the bow thruster. And yes all BEC. Not had a set up like this before so it's a first for me. I will let you know how I get on. Unfortunately I've not been able to work on it for a few weeks now. Hopefully over Christmas I'll be able to get stuck in again.
Cheers, Dan
ok Dan lookin forward to more of this an hope you get on ok with them ole becc esc as to me they were an are a pita
chrisb
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A small update. Before I get the deck fixed down I wanted to get the landing craft launch ports started because it would just be awkward trying to build it through it's relatively small area. So I've started the first one. Not complete yet but it gives a rough idea of where I'm at. I don't think I'm going to have any landing craft get lowered into the water, but I'm making the davits strong enough and able to move should I change my mind.
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That's a lovely section of detailing Dan! It all looks so in scale and realistic. How is the AK styrene? Is it like Plastruct or more like Evergreen?
I find the former matt and not precisely square while the Evergreen can have badly cut areas at the ends. Mind you, I find Plastruct rod better for perfect roundness and lack of air bubbles.
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Thank you very much! It's been a while since I've used any any plastics. However I've got no complaints about the AK styrene. All arrived perfectly straight, no imperfections in the plastic it's self. Moulds to the shape you want well as long as the as the curve or shape isn't too drastic and it stick very well with solvent glue. I'll probably use it throughout the build now as they also have a good selection of profiles.
Cheers, Dan
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Thank you very much! It's been a while since I've used any any plastics. However I've got no complaints about the AK styrene. All arrived perfectly straight, no imperfections in the plastic it's self. Moulds to the shape you want well as long as the as the curve or shape isn't too drastic and it stick very well with solvent glue. I'll probably use it throughout the build now as they also have a good selection of profiles.
Cheers, Dan
HI Dan very nice work on your boat bay an yrs i dont think its worth it makin the landin craft go up an down
chrisb
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Hi Chris,
Thanks for your kind words! A bit more detail to add yet but im happy to install them like that. I don't think I'll have the landing craft raise and lower as they're quite small and delicate looking at the drawings and will it be worth the effort? I'm not sure
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HI Dan long time no hear from you young sir whats happening on her then ?
chrisb
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HI Dan long time no hear from you young sir whats happening on her then ?
chrisb
Hi Chris,
Unfortunately very little progress. All I've done in the past few months is add a bit of detail to the landing craft bays. Once these are all complete I can look at fixing the basic electrics in place before fixing my main deck down.
Cheers :-))
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I still think that is an excellent rendition of the interior. I can imagine you dong some amazing work on the interior of a WW2 Aircraft carrier hangar!
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I still think that is an excellent rendition of the interior. I can imagine you dong some amazing work on the interior of a WW2 Aircraft carrier hangar!
Thank you very much! I don't think I'll go too much further with it now. Hopefully it'll look fairly realistic once it's painted up. 3 out of 4 are done, so it's not been a quick build at all but maybe in a few years when this is done I may try a ship from a different era. Not sure I have the room for another carrier though.
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My two are boxed so that once completed (one day I am sure.....) they can sit atop each other.
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Morning all,
Alot of work with little to show for it. All landing ports and other smaller openings have been completed with their first fix, paint, and installed into the hull. I kept the main deck off until this process was finished so I could easily mask off the painted decks. I thought painting them before installing them would leave neater painted edges where decks met the bulkheads. That, and connecting the wiring loom for the LEDs in each port.
Each LED is fitted inside a moulded white metal bulkhead light. Drilled with a 1mm bit and the LED and wire fitted though. For any one interested, the LED was a white 0402.
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HI DAN looks very good as does your ship very well done an nice to see you back on here more please :-))
chrisb
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Thanks Chris! I'm finding I'm spending alot of time on bits that can't really be seen. Once these are out the way, progress should actually be seen... Hopefully.
I've uploaded a second part to my build on YouTube. Only another timelaps video. Not very exciting but here's the link if anyone's interested
https://youtu.be/o06KPVUHM4M?si=sXT5gMb-c6PbUHVe
Cheers,
Dan
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Thanks Chris! I'm finding I'm spending alot of time on bits that can't really be seen. Once these are out the way, progress should actually be seen... Hopefully.
I've uploaded a second part to my build on YouTube. Only another timelaps video. Not very exciting but here's the link if anyone's interested
https://youtu.be/o06KPVUHM4M?si=sXT5gMb-c6PbUHVe (https://youtu.be/o06KPVUHM4M?si=sXT5gMb-c6PbUHVe)
Cheers,
Dan
HI Dan well i enjoyed your ocean build on utube more please as i watched it twice an you are doin A FAR BETTER JOB than i did on my tiger very well done young sir an oh i wish i could build as qiuck as you have done lol as yes i know its speeded up but this when finished should look brillant on the water but yu may have to make your rudders bigger like i had too on my tiger very well done Dan im impressed
chrisb
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Thanks for sharing your progress via video Dan, I also enjoyed it.
Ocean is coming on an absolute treat, keep up the good work.
Nige
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Thank you both very much! Now that the decks on I'll focus on any platforms that come out from the hull. Once they're complete I won't be far off Painting the hull.
Cheers,
Dan
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Morning all
Latest update, all the platforms are now built onto the hull, sanded and primed ready for Painting. The deck ramp into the hanger has been started. I'm hoping to add more detail to this in the coming days.
Cheers,
Dan
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This is shaping up to be an absolute stunner of a model. Enjoying this build a lot. Don't rush, I don't want it over too soon!
Greg
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This is shaping up to be an absolute stunner of a model. Enjoying this build a lot. Don't rush, I don't want it over too soon!
Greg
Thanks Greg! It's not perfect but I'm happy with the outcome so far. I don't think it'll be over any time soon. I expect another year or two yet at least.
Cheers, Dan
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HI Dan wow just whatched your vid an boy i wish i could build that quick LOL :-)) an she's lookin a stunner very well done on this build my freind as i was just sayin to my wife jen it dont seem 15 odd yrs ago since i see you on model warship uk an then you was only a youngster where has al the time gone wow an have you started on the eletrics yet ? BUT she will require quite a bit of wheight to get her to sit at her proper draught line like my tiger did an that was 88 ibs an it takes two people to lift her as you will find out but youre doin great job bet she will look good on the water an what helos will you fit on her seakings or the new merlins ? AN HOPE ITS NOT TO LONG BEFORE ANOTHER POST FROM YOU SIR
chrisb :-))
ATB
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Hi Chris!
Yes about 15 years I believe! A bit of a break for a few years then back in at the deep end.
I've not really done much with the electrics yet still working on the hull. I keep changing my mind on which order to carry out the works. However, on a side note, has anyone got any recommendations for brushed ESCs that will handle 12V. I'm aware of Mtroniks, but don't really know of any others. Most I'm finding tend to be rated to 11.1v?
I'm currently working on the walk way that runs along side the flight deck. I've fitted the first few braces that the walkway will be laid onto.
I thought it would be a good idea to get this complete before painting the hull.
Since my last photos, I've added plasticard to the main deck as I wasn't happy with the grain showing through the paint. I want the finished product to be as close to real as possible and having wood grain show through would really bug me.
As for aircraft, I think I'm fairly limited as I've only found wildcats in 1/96, although I'd love to add a merlin, and maybe even a Chinook or Apache if I can source one in the right scale.
I've not really got any decent photos to hand, but the photos below are where I was at last night.
Cheers
Dan
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WELL Dan i can say this about eletrics its a job to get them all goin ok but you only have two motors dont you an not 4 motors like i have to work but this is just my opinion have one for each motor as they are sealed up now an you cant adjust them now not like them good eletronice as i found them the best hope you get your motors goin ok
ATB chrisb :-))
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Still not much further along than I was a few weeks ago. Unfortunately I've misread the drawings and made a mistake. The walkway on the real ship seems to be a grated floor. However I've read the drawings as a narrow grated section running through the middle of the majority of the walkway. By the time I realised my mistake I'd already done what you can see in the photos. So I've made the decision to carry on as is. It won't be accurate but at this stage I've decided it is what it is. Hopefully I have a better update a bit sooner that it has been lately.
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Looking very good Dan. :-))
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looking good,
what did you use for the grating?
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Thank you both. The mesh is a 40 wire per inch stainless steel insect mesh from eBay. Comes in a sheet about 6" square and I just cut it down to size with scissors.
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It got a bit repetitive after a while, but the walkway (I'm sure there's a different name for it but I don't know) is basically complete. Finer detail will be added at a later date!
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Lovely work Dan.
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Lovely work Dan.
Thank you very much :-))
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Wow! those cut outs in the hull side illuminated are fab! They remind me of the Death star hangars!
As previously said, don't rush it, you are doing fine, and remember what the famous craftsman Khrushchev (SIC) once said: 'Perfection is the enemy of good enough'. We are all our own worst enemis when it comes to knowing when to say that's enough 8)
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Wow! those cut outs in the hull side illuminated are fab! They remind me of the Death star hangars!
As previously said, don't rush it, you are doing fine, and remember what the famous craftsman Khrushchev (SIC) once said: 'Perfection is the enemy of good enough'. We are all our own worst enemis when it comes to knowing when to say that's enough 8)
They really do, I've heard it a few times {-)
And thank you for the kind words. It'll never be perfect because it's me building it, but I'm happy with it so far.
I've just finished doing a bit on it for the weekend. It's been quite productive. I've started the super structure. The bridge will be a bit of a head ache because of the angles of it all. I'll let the photos do the talking.
Cheers,
Dan
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Looks fantastic. What thickness of plasticard is that and what do you use to cut it? I've been using scalpel blades and anything 1mm or more becomes a right chore especially for windows. What adhesive are you using and how long do you find you have to support a joint for it to set?
Really enjoying watching the build :-))
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Thank you! The card is 1mm. It is tricky to cut, but if done slowly and with a few passes it does go. I have got impatient a few times and tired cutting it in one pass, but I usually end up going off course.
I don't use scaple blades or modelling knives , I use one of my Stanley knives. I find I get a better grip and it goes through the thicker card easier.
I used liquid poly cement for most of it, but if needed I'll use a blob of super glue (and sometimes a support made from scraps like in the last photo) just to quicky hold bits in place while the poly cement goes off. Hope that helps :-))
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Good point re the Stanley knife. Although not so precise as craft knives or scalpels it often gives a better result as it is more rigid and cuts where you want it to.
Colin
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The only "issue" I've found with the Stanley knife is that the cut edge ends up with a slight chamfer so usually needs a light sanding to square it off.
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If you score and snap you will get a flat edge, just light sand to rid of any burrs.
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Great looking bridge!! Really crisp.
Some styrenes or maybe ABS can snap untidily leaving lots more fettling. It depends on each person's interpretation of score as some might use a blade or might use a scribing tool, or even an old style compass point (Used one recently to cut through 1.5mm plastic in an awkward place) I find the irregularity is worse the thicker the plastic, but have found differences between different makes of sheet styrene. I like the slightly warm white type that Amerang sells or used to sell.
I use a scalpel mainly but do use a Stanley for thicker plastic and chopping corners or carving etc.
It is refreshing to use thinner plastic for building as it is easier to cut and handle but masters usually require thicker plastic to withstand vulcanised moulding.
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HI DAN whats happening on your carrier ? as you was doin so well on it
chrisb
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Hi Chris, not much as far as updates go. The main superstructure is at a point where I can start adding detail but I'm going to move on to the main crane first and get to a point where I can prime everything and start looking at getting the first coats of paint on.
Cheers,
Dan
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For what it's worth, I purchased a small right-angle plane from Lee Valley and I use it to square the edges of scored styrene parts. One or two passes leaves the edge 90 degrees and smooth.
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For what it's worth, I purchased a small right-angle plane from Lee Valley and I use it to square the edges of scored styrene parts. One or two passes leaves the edge 90 degrees and smooth.
Thanks for the tip, I've now ordered one for myself :-))
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HI Dan wow you S/S looks brilliant are you goin to light up the bridge an hangars ? CANT WAIT TO SEE HER ON THE WET STUFF
chrisb :-)) an im goin to take my hms norfolk up Norwich pond on sunday so hopein for nice wheather
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Hi Chris,
Thanks, she will be lit up. I've already installed and had the landing craft bays lit up. I can't remember if I uploaded photos of it so here they are again.
Hopefully you had some decent weather to get to the lake this weekend :-))
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HI DAN yes them apertures look great all lit up just like the rea ship wow an yes been up norwich pond today an had a great days sail an there was a very good turn out on models which made the day an the wheather was fab nice an warm an sunny an plenty of the general public walkin about an askin questions about my NORFOLK an wanting to see the eletrics inside her so YES A VERY GOOD DAYS SAILIN as she was on the water for 4 times sailin an i dint hit one boat but had a close one as some fast eletrics only just missed my norfolk but ok in the end an jen an i stayed right till 4 pm an yes we both caught the sun as we both have bright red faces lol
ATB DAN an to your family
chris an jen :-))
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A small update. Nearing completion of the crane. Trying to include as much detail as reasonably possible at this scale.
Not sure what I'll move onto next. Maybe adding detail to the superstructure.
Also I've done a basic video on how I build the basic superstructure
https://youtu.be/Pt94sczUdMw?si=m6zkmHQ8DaK0zICc
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Describing what you are doing while doing it is IMHO the best way of producing videos like these as some folk do waffle on and then we see ten minutes of not always well filmed work. I was there with you all the way and felt part of your video rather than a bored disengaged viewer looking at the time stamp because the video is boring. Please do some more Dan!
The crane looks great matey!
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Great so see how the build is going, and for me a great tutorial in using plasticard, more please :-))
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Thank you both. I'm well aware my voice isn't the most exciting to listen to and I'm by no means a film maker but I'm glad you thought it was useful!
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Hi Dan,
Thought the video was a good idea to show your progress, which is some time hard to post for every item built.
When I get get back to my Type 26 build , I値l copy our great idea and post a progress video.
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Hi David,
Thanks for your kind words. I unintentional miss bits with the camera because on the rare occasion I do manage to sneak away from family life for 5 minutes, I get stuck in to whatever it is I'm doing and totally forgot about recording it.
But it'll be good to see yours on video. Keep us posted!
Cheers,
Dan
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HI Dan just been lookin through your great build but cannot see a video ?
chrisb :-))
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Evening Chris,
Try this link
https://youtu.be/Pt94sczUdMw?si=HJv8WQ2cpYi8BfIT
Cheers, Dan
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just read this through from the start. Lovely work.
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Thank you Steve :-))