Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Working Vessels => Topic started by: B.B on March 06, 2024, 09:17:45 am
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Hi there, yep another trawler (https://static.xx.fbcdn.net/images/emoji.php/v9/t4c/1/16/1f642.png) ,"Lady-Lin" one of the 2 builds on the go at present, she is 43.5 inch's at 1:16 scale of a 58 ft prawn trawler ,there was actually 2 built side by side at Bob McLaren's Boat yard at Ballina through 1980 for Bill Goode ,they were named after Bill's wife "Lin-G" & "Lin-Far" to be operated from Cairns ,north into the Torres Straits area, the timber used on the model is spotted gum & Colonial Teak for the keel , stem & deadwood areas, the frames, stringers, ribs & planking from Beech. Many thanks to Joe McGettigan for the use of the plans, Bruce Harrison for printing them to the appropriate scale and to kevin Rasmussen for the lovely Beech I'm using on the builds, cheers.....
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Well it's about time too {-) Hi Brian hope you're well mate. So this is nearly 4ft long with just the most lovely wood and carpentry - I'm in for this one :-)) Good to have you back!
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What Mark said! That keel assembly is beautiful and not just the look of the wood, the shape is lovely and the different parts used to create it!
Looking forward to another fine build Brian :-)) 8)
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Thanks guys, I have been a bit slack on the posting side meant to start putting this one up a couple months ago, I kicked off with 2 on the go at the same time ,got up to the w-house stage on both models then carried ahead with the smaller model, cheers :-)) .
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Hi there, with the frames set up and all faired off , started on fitting the beech stringers, also made some brass dovetail plates for the deadwood area ( each section of the deadwood was glued and doweled ) and some of the beech planking 10 x 3 mm ( larger model 12 x 4 mm planking) , cheers. :-)) ....
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Wooden version of your Brass dovetail plates known as a 'Dutchman.' Silly question but why are the frame stringer notches so deep?
Regards Ian.
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The brass dovetails - what a really nice feature
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Hi Ian, no harm in asking, they are seated that depth to allow for the ribs that will be placed over them so as the ribs are flush with the frames ,cheers.
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Will wait to see the planking. Diagonal?
Regards Ian.
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Hi there, had bit of trouble trying to add more post ,everything seams to be working now ??? these photo's showing the shoulder shelf made from Merbau, then the ribbing ,after breaking a couple was time to steam the remainder, then starting the planking procedure. cheers :-)) .
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Got it, thanks :-))
Regards Ian.
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Your carpentry is inspiring - That garboard plank is just perfect and they are quite difficult to make without rising up the bow. Like you I've snapped more pieces than I care to remember {-)
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Morning Mark, yes once you get to the second or 3rd plank you have to let them fly and have to start putting a few steelers in. cheers :-))
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Absolutely fantastic woodworking, as always!
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Morning , This section showing her planked to the deck level ,then after sanding and a coat of wood preserver applying her first undercoat, installed most of the deck beams except for a few , pre fitted those to allow easier access for painting .also the lift out deck sections. Cheers. :-)) .
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When you scale up a model boat it really makes you see just how huge those beams and frames really are. Prawn trawlers must be very strong boats :-))
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Hi Mark,,,, Those deck beams & frames are over sized ( Guilty ) makes a strong model thou O0 , cheers :-)) .
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Hi there, I was going to fit the scooter motor but decided to go with the Torpedo 800 spinning an 80mm 4 blade Robesch propeller , then soldering and fitting the rudder stock tubing, with the base for the 12 V battery the plan was to use the larger of the 2 x 12V batteries being a 4 Kg , but when i gave her a float test to much weight forward so used the 2.75 Kg 12 V battery . In the bottom I used X40 Bond coat ( 2 pack) a pool covering, with the Merbau sponsons I cut then to suit the bow they had in them , but after steaming they wanted to curve up on one side and down on the other but didn't matter anyway as being steamed they sat in position till the following day before attaching them, then brushing the white undercoat inside the hull. Cheers :-)) .
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Hi There, once the inside of her was sprayed , then layed the ply deck before fitting all the staunchion post and planked , wasn't happy with the height of the stem as the plans for that size vessel varied depending on what the owners wanted, the easy way or smart way would have been to leave the stem longer, so spliced bit more on the top ( live and learn :) ), then cut out the shoulder sponson's (semi hardwood) from old furniture made in Malaysia ,that was steamed and put in position ,when all done gave that section a coat of wood preserver,,,Cheers . :-)) ......
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Great Stuff BB!
..... almost a pity to cover up all that lovely woodwork .... <:(
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Hi There, thank you Martin .After undercoating bulwarks etc, onto the w-house, she had a step up w-house on her, i find it easier to lay the ply base in position on the main deck and the raise deck section ,after getting it to a curtain stage can remove and replace easier access to work on, most of the frame work was of Colonial teak & Merbau the remainder was Beech and ply...Cheers :-)) .
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Hi there, some more photo's of the W-house construction, with the step up w-house floor I glued it into position then realized i needed that section clear to be able to put my hand up through there when installing the windows after the painting completed so had to scribe from both sides to cut a temporary section out that can then be placed back in, that was up there with measuring once and cutting twice ??? Cheers. :-)) .....
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Hi There, Plying the W-house and marking and cutting her windows out , and making the door louvers ( for both models) Cheers, :-)) .
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She's starting to look very elegant now :-))
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I'll second that Mark - like your own builds, here we are witnessing another masterclass in model carpentry ! and what a pleasure to follow.
Brian I'm intrigued to know how you made the initial cuts so accurately around the window frames please? what gadget was involved??
always a grueling task, taking hours of fiddly work and if not spot-on stands out like a sore thumb.
In your photo it looks like the burnt edged cuts you get with a laser?
Re the mention of "When you marked out the rabbet on the stem did you use French curves for the job?"
from a commercial art background my weapon of choice for gentle compound curves would be a Flexi-Curve or Flexible Curve.
They take a bit of practice in manipulating the thing to the correct shape - once mastered give good results,
but there is a limit to how tight a curve can be introduced etc.
Many years ago I worked with an artist who owned a complete set of antique wooden 'Ships Curves' and they were a sight to behold -
dozens of the things, like French curves on steroids, some were around a metre long - all contained within a beautiful Burr Walnut carrying case,
not something one used that often, but invaluable when the occasion arose.
regards Paul.
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Hi Paul - The curves you mention are probably Copenhagen drafting curves and they have become very rare. A set popped up on my eBay feed last week for $749.00 - They sold within 1 hour of appearing. I guess that says something about their availability and yep I would love a set but not for that sort of money.
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Hi Guys thank you, when you think about it there must be a lot of gear that was used in the marking out and construction of timber vessels in the past that have been discarded, especially by the Family members of the Draftsman ,Shipwrights etc after that individual had passed on , seems to be valued as useless rubbish ( a shame).With the windows etc I use the Dremel cutting disc first then the tile cutting bit ( as in photo's) but you have to be careful to attack the curves in the same direction each time as it will have a tenancy to bite in ,then small files to finish off with , your not wrong Paul, one little mess slip up and especially with the windows in a model stand out like dogs B . Cheers , :-)) .
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Great woodwork! :-))
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Wow $749.00? - to think I came very close to inheriting my work mates curves when he retired !
in this instance, it was the advent of the Apple Mac revolutionizing the graphics industry which valued them useless - hindsight's a wonderful thing !!
Re Dremel cutting discs - I've packs of the things in my Dremel accessories box unopened, just use them for cutting carbon fibre, must give them a go.
regards Paul.
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Hi there thanks guys, This section of photo's are.......She had 2 air vents, made these from the knobs from old veneesian blinds and doweling, then the shade awning which is positioned at the rear of the w-house, then the boxing which contains a deck snap ( freezing prawn cartons when filled) brine tanks and the sorting tray lid.With the main Gantry and A-frame they were made from Colonial teak all joints glued and doweled and the ladder for the A-frame.It was time to make more life rings for the 2 models and future ones, they were cut from an old section of window frame ( Red Cedar) scavenged from the local tip back in 1977 ( when we could do these things ??) cheers :-))
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Absolutely amazing 🤩
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Hi There thank you, Cutting all the bits for the webbing on the trawl boom strengtheners , using copper sheeting from an old copper wood heater for the lugs etc . had to cut one section of the towing & stay lug off as put them on the same direction and they have to be opposite on each boom, then making the trawl booms pivot points etc .......Cheers . :-)) ...
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Hi there, These photo's are of the parts for the aft tri gear frame, this small pipe bender I acquired a couple years ago is a handy item to use.The brass frame situated behind the w-house is to support the aft section of the shade awning, construction of the front hand railing and showing the bulk of the brass work completed, cheers . :-)) ....
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Fantastic work :-))
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:-)) :-)) :-))
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Hi there, Thank you Mark & Chum444 , Today's photo's are of the plough anchor, I didn't quiet get the angle correct where the shank meets the swivel , it just didn't sit right over the front roller ( would of been okay if it was to be attached to the deck ?) so had to make another one with the angle right to suit the front roller, and the last photo is of the back stairs from deck to the step up w-house, cheers . :-)) ....
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Hi there, onto the winch's etc, making the wire guides for the 2 side winch's, all finished side winch's , tri & anchor winch's and the control console, then another undercoat on their bottoms,Cheers. :-)) ..
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Hi there, next on the list to make her trawl boards (twin gear) so 4 all up made from brass copper and ply, with the painting I also painted the larger model to the undercoat stage then concentrated on finishing this one off. Actually I made the life rings for both models easier to do the other 2 at the same time, cheers. :-)) ....
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Hi there, time to spray her bottom in my spraying booth (temperature controlled of course :D ), the slow tedious job of installing the pre shaped windows, running gear installed and rigging her. Everything fitting another one done and dusted , cheers :-)) .
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Lovely. As always. :-)) :-))
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Thank you SailorGreg , some more here of the same ,cheers :-)) ....
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Another fantastic build - I like the Cummins sticker on the motor and she looks great in those colours
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Hi there, thank you Mark , I stuck to the original colours, as they changed over the years ,one ended up red trimmings the other yellow {:-{ , half the time when you know a boat as a curtain colour and then they change it ,the vessel just never seems to look the same ??.Well this was her launch day ,I may be bias but I think she looked good on the water and happy with her performance and a photo of Joe McGettigan whom helped build the original vessels back in 1980 , Cheers :-)) .
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I think the smile on Joe's face says everything - another beauty ! - thank you very much for posting Brian, here's to your next !!
Paul.
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Hi Paul, yes he was quiet impressed with her, he also had a drive of her around the paddock, cheers.