Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Pleasure boats, Sports, Race, Power and Leisure Boats: => Topic started by: DJW on December 02, 2025, 03:40:37 pm
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Afternoon All
So back in the 70's my first build was a Sea Urchin, I recall it being smallest of the Keilcraft (?) range and so most affordable. Unfortunately that boat has been lost over the decades since, but I have thought about it from time to time... So I plan to build one again, and try to keep it roughly of the 60's / 70's era when it was designed.
I see SLEC are making the kit available, so that's where the hull will be sourced. I've also been looking into how to power it, and I like the idea of using a Taycol motor. To that end I managed to pick up a pair of Taycol Comets on a well know auction site for just over £20.00, they are boxed but have been used and need some restoration as neither are running at the moment. They are the ungeared versions.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2025/12/02/1000023992.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2025/12/02/1000023988.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2025/12/02/1000023990.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2025/12/02/1000023991.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2025/12/02/1000023989.jpg)
I've done some initial reading up on the Taycol range, some references over past few years in Model Boats magazine, and the excellent resource for all things Taycol at http://taycol.tk/ ( [size=78%]http://taycol.tk/ (http://taycol.tk/)[/size][size=78%] )[/size]
The Comet uses a permanent magnet rather than being 'field wound' like most of the Taycol range so I think can be treated like a normal brushed motor, I'm sure the universe will make sure I regret my assumptions at a suitable point...
And in the spirit of winding back time. The RC unit will be my old 4ch Fleet (Fleet Control Systems) Unit which dates to the early 80's, it will have a Corona 2.4Ghz module added (on it's way from China as I type...) to bring it up to date. Also needed as the Taycols were I believe great at creating RF interference that should be handled better by 2.4Ghz systems. Out of courtesy to everyone else on the lake I'll be adding suppression as part of the Taycol renovation..!
I did start out with a 2 channel Waltron RC on 27Mhz back in the day, but again it's been lost to time, so the Fleet is the oldest I have.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2025/12/02/1000023987.jpg)
This is going to be a slow burn build with a few hurdles on the way I think. I'd like to get at least one running Comet from the two units that I have, of course two would be better, depends if I need any donor parts. Then get the RC updated and working before starting on the boat build. That's current plan anyway.
Anyone who's worked on a Comet or can advise on refurbishing the Taycols in general, well input and advice would be gratefully received. Same with the Fleet update, I've heard it's a good unit to take the upgrade, but would be good to hear from anyone who's actually done it.
We shall see...
David.
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David , If you get stuck , please note that I have a number of working and tested Taycols for sale . Also note that previously published information that certain models cannot be reversed is incorrect . From memory the one I managed to reverse is a Target . No problem in digging out the circuit to do this , though it was some considerable time ago.. Again from memory it involved removing the supplied links and feeding via external cables , thus allowing for the motor to be reversed .
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The Taycol site contains a fair bit of info on refurbishment (as well as several methods of reversing all the Taycol motors with current ESCs). Yours is a permanent magnet motor, so will have no problems with this anyway.
I would check several aspects of each motor, and maybe swap components to get the best result.
You want the best magnet. Both are probably pretty poor by now. You need to pay attention to the commutator and brushes - the least worn commutator should be picked. The site contains instructions for making new brushes - you may find the old ones are workable. Try moving the shaft
up and down to see which end plate bearings are least worn.
Lubricate the brushes and run the motors with a bit of a load to see how much sparking you get. Sparks put a lot of interference out, both on the RF spectrum and down the power leads to the ESC. The site has advice on suppression. That will probably be your biggest problem. And remember metal-to-metal interference if you are using 27MHz. Interference down the power lines can cause problems even if you are using 2.4GHz, of course, and in line inductors can be useful here...
Good luck!
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"AeroKits" David.
Regards Ian.
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Sea Urchin: https://slecuk.com/product/sea-urchin-16ins-406mm/
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Good Afternoon All
Thanks for the support and Taycol info. I'll be taking a look at the Comets first and will post progress updates.
David.
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Hi, as Dodgy has said the magnet will be less than it used to be. I have not tried this on my Comet motor, but on an old Trix motor, I just added a small (8mm) neodimium magnet to one of the poles and it rejuvenated the motor.
If you run 2.4Ghtz it will probably not need the usual capacitors, BUT whenever you come near another electric model boat you will introduce RF interference to the esc and any non-2.4Ghtz RC model.
I still use 27 and 40 Mhtz RC equipment so I hope we do not 'meet' on the water!Roy
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If you know anyone into vintage model railways, you might be able to find someone with one of these:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0A-hLYS9RvU (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0A-hLYS9RvU)
Don't know if your magnets will fit, but it could be a way to maintain originality rather than going down the neodymium route.
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Have a PDF copy of a "Model Engineer" design showing construction of a remagnetizer which looks incredibly like the one above. Anyone who fancies a copy, supply E-mail address via a PM (DON'T publish e-mail address's on open forum)
Regards Ian.
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.......
If you run 2.4Ghtz it will probably not need the usual capacitors
.....
It's a good idea to use caps to cut the sparking as much as possible. The sparks send a huge jolt up the power lines into the ESC, and that can cause a lot of trouble to the controls. It's not only RF you have to worry about...
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It would seem odd for DJW to use an esc over a rheostat control after picking a retro motor and Tx.
Suppression capacitors don't cut brush arcing, but higher frequency pwm escs do.
So if you want to suppress the arc and maximise brush life, avoid low frequency pwm (~50Hz) controllers. That would include PIC processor based controllers, post Y2K, where the designer didn't immediately make the obvious desirable jump to > 500 Hz pwm.
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Morning All
Interesting comments, thanks for the input. I'd thought the only RF interference issue to be addressed was interference with the controlling radio system (mine and others in vicinity...) and I intend to address this part of the problem by adding suppression and using 2.4Ghz. I'd not realised there were considerations with the ESC used. I'd also not really given thought to rheostat or ESC as a speed controller yet, does anyone have any specific hardware recommendations that have been proved to work with this motor type..? My thought had been to 'look' like a vintage build, but with 2.4Ghz control, modern servos / lightweight batteries, maybe 3D printed fittings so I'm not too worried about speed controller being authentic, just functional as it can be hidden / disguised.
I had briefly wondered about the magnets on the Comets and how to rejuvenate them if needed, that train related re / demagnetiser is interesting and seems very effective. And @Ian, I'll be contacting you for those plans, thanks for the offer.
I did power up one of the Comets yesterday on a bench PSU as the shaft was pretty free running, not much play at all in the bearing surfaces and it looks fine apart from being dusty. It ran first time, plenty of arcing and sounds like a bag of nails. But it runs and I'm happy with that, I ran it briefly at 5V and pushed the current to 2A. The second Comet does not rotate as freely and may have a cracked paxolin end plate, so I didn't attempt to run it, I think a stripdown is in order now for both units for some clean up and lubrication and see where that leads.
Thanks again for the comments.
David.
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Interesting comments, thanks for the input. I'd thought the only RF interference issue to be addressed was interference with the controlling radio system (mine and others in vicinity...) and I intend to address this part of the problem by adding suppression and using 2.4Ghz. I'd not realised there were considerations with the ESC used....
The Radio Frequency emissions from the sparks do cause problems at 27MHz which are minimised by the use of 2.4GHz. But the sparking can also produce spikes at the battery voltage back down the power lines - and sometimes, with the field-wound motors, considerably higher voltages due to induction. This dirty power can have all sorts of unwanted effects. Sometimes I have been able to avoid it by not using the ESC BEC, and powering the receiver with a separate battery. However, I think the problem can be worse on a field-wound Taycol with a poor commutator - a permanent magnet Comet may have less powerful spikes (though I don't like the sound of the bag of nails!)...
I did power up one of the Comets yesterday on a bench PSU as the shaft was pretty free running, not much play at all in the bearing surfaces and it looks fine apart from being dusty. It ran first time, plenty of arcing and sounds like a bag of nails. But it runs and I'm happy with that, I ran it briefly at 5V and pushed the current to 2A. The second Comet does not rotate as freely and may have a cracked paxolin end plate, so I didn't attempt to run it, I think a stripdown is in order now for both units for some clean up and lubrication and see where that leads.
Note that, if you want, you can mount a small ball-bearing in each of the paxolin end-plates. Not authentic, but should result in much smoother running...
The Taycol site not only has lines for cutting new paxolin end-plates, but also for creating a new commutator! These motors were assembled very simply by hand using stamped components - in some cases on a kitchen table (private communication with Taylor's grand-daughter). So it would be fairly authentic to replace the commutator and brushes with home-made items. Once disassembled, it would be interesting to see photos of the commutator and brushes. Don't run without lubrication of the brushes if you can help it...
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dodgygeezer, the sparks are not the cause of any problem. They are only the visible indicator of chopping current at the stall rating of the motor.
Morning All
Interesting comments, thanks for the input. I'd thought the only RF interference issue to be addressed was interference with the controlling radio system (mine and others in vicinity...) and I intend to address this part of the problem by adding suppression and using 2.4Ghz. I'd not realised there were considerations with the ESC used. I'd also not really given thought to rheostat or ESC as a speed controller yet, does anyone have any specific hardware recommendations that have been proved to work with this motor type..? My thought had been to 'look' like a vintage build, but with 2.4Ghz control, modern servos / lightweight batteries, maybe 3D printed fittings so I'm not too worried about speed controller being authentic, just functional as it can be hidden / disguised.
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My point was to avoid 50Hz pwm controllers and don't experiment with cap values in the hope of suppressing sparks.
Most Chinese manufactured escs these days are fixed at 1kHz or 2kHz.
Mtroniks run at ~ 3kHz, FR40 has a 4kHz setting.
Hobbywing 1060, among other model numbers have an 8kHz pwm setting.
This 12 to 24 volt resin-pottable esc has a fixed 8kHz pwm and 8volt l.v. cutout.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003766285546.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003766285546.html)
The going rate is ~ £14 for 100 sale days out the calendar year.
Use the Find Similar button or come back at the next sale date to see better pricing.
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dodgygeezer, the sparks are not the cause of any problem. They are only the visible indicator of chopping current at the stall rating of the motor.
They are an indication of the state of the brushgear, and I have found that the worse the sparking, the greater the disturbance to a connected ESC. On a bad Taycol the current is probably being interrupted continuously, even while the brushes are passing over the contact area of the commutator...
I take your point about the higher-frequency ESCs, however. These are likely to be better-designed all round and better able to withstand a dirty power line. I tend to run with 'Cheap Chinese', and these are probably very susceptible to any disturbance.
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Have a PDF copy of a "Model Engineer" design showing construction of a remagnetizer which looks incredibly like the one above. Anyone who fancies a copy, supply E-mail address via a PM (DON'T publish e-mail address's on open forum)
Regards Ian.
Circlip - if you send a copy to the Taycol hotmail address (see bottom of the Taycol Tales section of the site) I can add it to the list of useful items for Taycol refurbishments...
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They are an indication of the state of the brushgear, and I have found that the worse the sparking, the greater the disturbance to a connected ESC. On a bad Taycol the current is probably being interrupted continuously, even while the brushes are passing over the contact area of the commutator...
You can further beef up suppression to round off corners of problem transients, improve matters, yet still have the same firework display at the motor. Again, sparking at the brushes is a related symptom, but not a cause.
I don't share your specific reservation regarding Chinese escs. However, a surface mount linear bec sharing a 1" square pcb with drive transistors is an inbuilt week point that kills escs at 12v input and 1/2 amp servo load on the bec. But that is also the same corner cut by a UK brand fabricated in China.
The esc I linked at Aliexpress has a 3-amp switching bec so does not cook the drive transistors supplying high bec current at high input voltage.
You'll now see switching bec offered on some small budget Chinese escs.
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David, it will be strange reading about you building anything other than a Riva! But interesting.
Chris
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You can further beef up suppression to round off corners of problem transients, improve matters, yet still have the same firework display at the motor. Again, sparking at the brushes is a related symptom, but not a cause.
Alas, I have a dicky scope (hoping for a new one for Xmas!). When I get it, I will be able to have a look at the power leads with/without suppression...
I don't share your specific reservation regarding Chinese escs. However, a surface mount linear bec sharing a 1" square pcb with drive transistors is an inbuilt week point that kills escs at 12v input and 1/2 amp servo load on the bec. But that is also the same corner cut by a UK brand fabricated in China.
I suspect that my operative word is 'Cheap'. Most of my boats are small and low-cost, and so ESCs at under a fiver are what I use a lot of. Mostly, they work. But I rarely use 12v...
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The re-magnetizer is for very small OO gauge open frame magnet motors. The unit works by sending a large current into coils for a second at most. like a Zap. I looked at making my own but decided it was too dangerous!
I think there is an article on-line from Model Engineer magazine 70+ years ago using very large capacitors that discharge through 2 magnetising coils with the magnet to be zapped in between. It looked dangerous!
When industrial size magnets are moved on lorries by rail they are only magnetised when they are in the location where they are situated. The equipment to magnetise them is moved with them and the work done in situ and then the magnetising unit is taken back to the manufacturers.
You are not allowed to transport very large magnets. That is the law I don't think it has changed.
I think experimenting with neodimium magnets is cheaper, they sell at 50 at a time. So cheap to try out.
Some 40 or so years ago I made my own unit for OO gauge railways that would burn its way through anything on the track that stopped the current getting to the loco. I worked out a circuit I think it was a Colpitts oscilator that only worked if the track to loco circuit was broken then it oscillated and produced a large AC voltage between the loco pick-up and the track. I connected it up and it would cut through dried paint on the rails.
I left it in use with our son using it. One day there was a separate problem and my bare arm touched the track and I got a hell of a shock. My oscillator was turning out 1400 volts AC! It was disconnected and broken apart it was dangerous.
The small unit referred to was over £100 when I checked some years ago. It was cheaper to get the motor/magnet done by post with a company specialising in the job.
Interesting though.
Roy
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Hi Dodgy you have a PM
Roy
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Alas, I have a dicky scope (hoping for a new one for Xmas!). When I get it, I will be able to have a look at the power leads with/without suppression...
I think you'll find high frequency digital storage scopes are needed to pick up that stuff.
Next best pondside tech toy after a handheld scope is a dc current capable clamp meter. £14.34 is the discounted price for those new to the store. I don't need another, but I checked that is a hall effect type that does d.c.
Some reviewers have not sussed you have to store a reference zero reading before each true reading.https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005757085279.html
(https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005757085279.html)
I suspect that my operative word is 'Cheap'. Most of my boats are small and low-cost, and so ESCs at under a fiver are what I use a lot of. Mostly, they work. But I rarely use 12v...
I was seeing them for just over a pound each during the last sale.
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Afternoon All
I did have a quick look at the PDF sent over by Ian for the magnetiser, and must admit I wasn't quite prepared for the '...the draw will be around 110 Amps, so use a large battery...' !
Moving on. Here are a few pics of the Comet. First the brushes, and to me they don't look too bad at all.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2025/12/04/1000024088.jpg)
And the Commutator
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2025/12/04/1000024093.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2025/12/04/1000024090.jpg)
Doesn't look too bad to me, this is as removed so I'll clean it up and post the results. There could be some damage maybe done by the arcing to the commutator, see the 9 o'clock position where the brushes have been running.
The coils look OK but some of the varnish (?) is peeling away, is that an issue..? Shaft has no apparent damage or grooving so should clean up OK I think.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2025/12/04/1000024091.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2025/12/04/1000024092.jpg)
Any other observations..?
Best regards
David.
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...the draw will be around 110 Amps, so use a large battery...' !" - - - - - Rubber gloves and a hazmat suit {-)
Battery IS a car battery and you only give it a pulse, Never zapped the whiskers from a DEAC?
Copy gone Dodgy.
Regards Ian.
Looking at this, just shows how the instant gratification era has pampered today's muddlers.
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I might have missed it... have you powered up the motors as yet?
How do they run?
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I think you'll find high frequency digital storage scopes are needed to pick up that stuff.
100MHz are cheap - Gigahertz less so... :(
Next best pondside tech toy after a handheld scope is a dc current capable clamp meter. £14.34 is the discounted price for those new to the store. I don't need another, but I checked that is a hall effect type that does d.c.
Some reviewers have not sussed you have to store a reference zero reading before each true reading.https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005757085279.html
(https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005757085279.html)
Shows £20 for me. And when do you need to measure 600A?
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Here are a few pics of the Comet. First the brushes, and to me they don't look too bad at all.
Brushes don't look too bad - commutator less so.
Check the thickness of the Beryllium copper strip brushes where they contact the commutator. They might be worn thin, and if so could break, then snag on the commutator.
The commutator tends to arc where the brushes cross over to the next section. Annoyingly, this is exactly where the holding tab into the backing paxolin is situated, so the tab conducts heat that makes the paxolin eventually crumble.
Do you fancy making up a new commutator? It's fairly easy if you use a Dremmel to sand the small pieces to size.
The Comet looks like a later one. The earlier Comets did not have the metal armature slices very well aligned, since they were hand-assembled. Yours are quite even.
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100MHz are cheap - Gigahertz less so... :(
Shows £20 for me. And when do you need to measure 600A?
This happened when I posted a link to a dual esc. For my privacy I stripped off the url cookie before posting. As a result everyone sees the default option which can be changed at the page foot. There can be several stocked variations which can mean as little as a more popular colour, or a "pro" option, a carry case or more features. Aliexpress shopping means you have to put in the hours to know the process. So I'd recommend looking through the spec list and comparing with other Aneng meters after hitting the "find similar" button.
It isn't so much the 600 amp range but frequency counter, true rms etc and you'd pay well over a hundred quid for a dc current type if you needed to rush to a trade counter in an emergency.
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Hi Martin
I did run one, the one that's now in parts... See post 11 above. The other one doesn't feel free enough to spin so I didn't try it.
David.
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An article describing the repair of a set of Torpedo brushgear (which is the same as the Comet brushgear) is available on the web site here. (http://taycol.tk/torrep1.html) You can see the kind of wear that is typical, and the creation and replacement of the commutator.. Sorry about the dark pictures...
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And beware when dealing with Beryllium Copper. O0
Regards Ian
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Haha... this was meant to be a not too tricky side project. Now we have at least a few ways listed to cause serious injury by electric shock or poisoning. Well. I did ask for input so no one else to blame..!
Thanks for the brush and commutater refurbish link, ill have a good look over that. I'll also strip that second motor and see what it looks like. Might be able to make up one good motor from the two. We'll see.
Thanks to all.
David.
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Might be able to make up one good motor from the two. We'll see.
No reason why you should not have two good motors. Just need to get some paxolin and spring copper...
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Hi Dodgy PM sent
Roy
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Having done a bit of experimenting, I can recommend the use of neodymium to boost the Comet's magnet. I tried a magnet from an old hard drive, and found that I could demagnetise and remagnetise the iron horseshoe easily. All you do to improve the magnetism is stroke the horseshoe with the North pole of the neodymium, going north to south on the horseshoe, about 10 times. To demagnetise, go the opposite way (South to North)...
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Hi Dodgy
Apologies for delayed reply. I tried same with a Neodymium magnet, and got the same result. A lot easier / safer than playing with 110A in a coil..! I guess these modern magnets pack such a strong magnetic field. Anyway, I think the Taycol horseshoe magnet is now stronger than it was so that's better. Now I need some time over Christmas to get at least one, if not two running.
On another note, the Corona Tx module and Rx arrived, just three wires to get connected to the Fleet Tx system and remove the current RF board. I know two are +ve and -ve power, anyone know where the PPM signal is best picked up from on a Fleet XP/FM Tx..? Anyone done this upgrade..?
Best regards
David.
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...
On another note, the Corona Tx module and Rx arrived, just three wires to get connected to the Fleet Tx system and remove the current RF board. I know two are +ve and -ve power, anyone know where the PPM signal is best picked up from on a Fleet XP/FM Tx..? Anyone done this upgrade..?
Best regards
David.
I've added Frsky modules. The voltage & signal requirements only needed a soldered-on flying lead to mate with the Futaba style servo plug of the 2.4GHz module.
If you post decent photos of the Tx pcboard & the relevant Corona instructions then anyone who has fitted 2.4GHz modules to any radio will pinpoint where to solder +,-,& signal.
If it's a NE5044 encoder based Fleet Tx you probably won't need help beyond interpretation & encouragement after reading the data sheet.
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I updated my fleet tx some time ago. On the rf circuit board, the one with the crystal socket has the connections. On the right hand side viewed from the bottom of the tx there's a white wire on the right hand side, this is the pulse input. Theres also some handy positive and negative wires on that board to take the power from. I disabled the 40 output by removing the crystal, it still takes a negligible amount of power, not enough to concern us. For me it was a good opportunity to replace the batteries, they need to be disconnected before starting anyway. It didn't take long to do and so very well worth doing, they're fantastic bits of kit., 40 plus years old and still no problems at all, not even dirty sticks unlike my Spektrum stuff.
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Thanks for the pointers, I've had a quick look and see the white wire on what I think is the RF board. (It's connected to the Antennae...) I'm a bit tied up today but will have a little more time over next few days to delve deeper.
I'm having some trouble uploading images to MBMImages, getting a 'Request Denied' when logging in, tried several browsers, same on my phone. Soon as that's resolved I'll upload an image of the boards in the Tx. Anyone else having upload issues at the moment..?
David.
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Your XP/FM will be based on the NE5044 encoder. Pin number 11 is
serial output, so you know where to start looking. The NE5044 data sheet tells you everything else you need to know. The Corona module instructions will tell you its +/- voltage requirement. It's serial input would probably work directly from pin 11, but you want some resistance between the two.
I shine a light from the underside of a pcboard to trace circuitry from a component side photo. You've only got +/- power, a buffered serial input, antenna, & possibly rf power meter to the rf board.
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Below are the two replies that were not
backed up when main host pulled the plug.
I'm pasting from the thread subscriber/poster notification email so the original bulletin board formatting of the quotes has been lost. I'll try to repair that aspect as far as possible then give my brief take on DJW's reading.
Jan 16 at 3:46 PM
Afternoon All
Well, been a busy past month or so with Christmas and all, so as always not as much progress as I'd have liked.
But I can report that one of the the Comet motors has had a rebuild. Retained all original parts, just cleaned up
really. Strengthened the magnet using the neodymium magnet approach recommended on this thread which
seems to have worked well. Cleaned up the commutator with wire wool, similar with the main shaft to get old deposits shifted.
Gummed up old oil I think. Cleaned up the paxolin / tufnol and bearing surfaces with WD40,
again old oil main issue. The brushes look OK in terms of wear to me, so I cleaned them up and put them back.
Oiled the mail bearing surfaces, WD40 on the commutator / brushes.
Then I powered the motor up with a bench supply, and it's nice and smooth, and quiet, just a hum.
Definitely sounds a lot better than powering up out of the box. Runs from 1.5V which I was a pit surprised at. Happiest around 3V drawing 0.5A no load.
Just gripping the shaft to add some load pushes current to about 0.6A. It'll be fine pushing a light 16inch Sea Urchin along I think.
Those two points of light above and below the shaft are the brushes arcing...
Smells a bit like a hornby train set engine to me from many years ago..!
A couple of times it didn't self start when power applied, had to spin the shaft to coax it to life.
Is that a known issue..?
Does power consumption look normal for a Comet..?
Best regards to all.
David.
Jan 16 at 4:14 PM
That's a tad higher than i expected, and the reluctance to self start is a lrttle worrying.
How is it on the recommended 4.5 to 6 volts. I seem to remember that Ron Warring, the 1960s motor tester got .5 amps on 6 volts free running.
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The web site has instruction documents on it, which specify the Comet as 4.5v to 6v, drawing 0.4A when free running. Don't forget to oil the brushes, otherwise you will get increased wear (and probably poor starting...).
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I'm sure the raised no-load current indicates a raised permanent magnet field strength. It would raise the iron loss figure above 0.4 amp and also lower the no-load rpm. The same increase will happen with a physical change to the core steel.
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Afternoon All
Been busy with a few other projects (and life...) but a brief update.
Thanks for the comments re magnet strength being a potential issue with the Comet no load current draw. I'll be testing in that direction and will report back. I think a few images / posts were lost in the recent site hiccups, but here's the current state of the refurbed Comet:
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2026/02/03/1000025326.jpg)
I used the 'brushing' technique with a neodymium magnet, and have ordered a stronger pair to enhance further.
This is the figures I'm seeing at the moment:
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2026/02/03/1000025327.jpg)
Mechanically the motor feels right, bearings are clean and lightly lubed, brushes and commutator are clean. And under power the motors sounds good. Starting issues seem to have gone away, maybe the brushes were just bedding in...
Have to admit I'm liking working on the Taycols... So I bought a Meteor that I couldn't resist on ebay..! No Idea what I'll end up doing with it.
It runs, but needs a refurb...
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2026/01/31/1000025251.jpg)
And here's a question for you good folks, it came with another motor, and I have no idea what it is:
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2026/01/31/1000025255.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2026/01/31/1000025256.jpg)
I should have put a ruler in the pic, it's about 25mm in diameter. Any thoughts..?
Best regards to all.
David.
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Eveready Electrotor??. I'll dig out my old mags and have a look.
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Have to admit I'm liking working on the Taycols... So I bought a Meteor that I couldn't resist on ebay..! No Idea what I'll end up doing with it.
They ARE fun, aren't they! And simply made - it should be possible to make a Taycol from scratch on the kitchen table. If you find anything interesting, or want to do a write up, I'd be happy to add it to the web site...
And here's a question for you good folks, it came with another motor, and I have no idea what it is:
II think Chas has hit it. Here's one on ebay...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/146598382109 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/146598382109)
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Hi Both
Thanks for the 'Electrotor' ID, I'll start looking for detail. The box pic on ebay helped with voltage range for a start.
And the Comet, well I added a couple of neodymium magnets and the current draw went down 0.3A, a 40% drop ish. So I think that points fair and square at the loss of magnet strength causing the excess draw and it's worth pursuing re magnetising the original.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2026/02/10/1000025416.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2026/02/10/1000025417.jpg)
And Mr Geezer, I've found the your pages a goldmine for Taycol background, so for sure if I can help by adding any findings, I will.
Best regards
David.
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This is a very interesting thread, love the Taycol motors. As far as the Comets go there is not much power even when new. So the boat will only pootle along at best.
I did have some thoughts about using a period motor and maybe driving it from a hidden source which could be done with a drive band with a pulley to the Comet. The u/j on the Comet driving the prop.
Good news the neodimium magnet worked.
Hi Dodgy, how is the 'Scope?
Roy
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I had a Taycol Asteroid back in the day, a feeble thing even then.
Personally I don't miss the Taycols, they were very crude and inefficient devices. Nostalgia has its limits!
Colin
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Steam engines are mostly crude and often inefficient, but most of us love them, it's all a matter of taste. The magic of seeing the workings doing their stuff is entrancing..
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Steam engines are mostly crude and often inefficient, but most of us love them, it's all a matter of taste. The magic of seeing the workings doing their stuff is entrancing..
..and the electric smell of the oil on the brushes! Never forgotten...
.......
I did have some thoughts about using a period motor and maybe driving it from a hidden source which could be done with a drive band with a pulley to the Comet. The u/j on the Comet driving the prop.
......
Hi Dodgy, how is the 'Scope?
Roy
You could also hide a modern brushless motor behind a bulkhead, and drive the Comet by extending the non-prop-shaft end to align with the hidden motor. It would surprise onlookers, until the Comet armature shook itself to pieces. They were not balanced...
The scope has revived my electrical bench - grateful thanks! I've been able to trace a fault on an old Micron, and am currently trying to get an old Remcon 12 to function. I like to keep the old systems running...
One problem is that, though the electronics seem to survive well, and can be obtained on ebay occasionally, the actuators seem to be forgotten about and are like hen's teeth. To address this, I have designed a (fairly!) reliable single channel actuator, complete with 'quick-blip' switching (do you remember that?). The actuator just uses some cheap readily-available geared motors, microswitches and a bit of perspex. You can see it working here:
http://oldboats.tk/single%20channel%20actuator.mp4 (http://oldboats.tk/single%20channel%20actuator.mp4)
If anyone wants some drawings and a circuit diagram send a PM. It would be ideal to control a Comet-motored boat - assuming that you can find a pond that is safe enough to use 27Mhz and bang-bang controls on...
-
Evening All
Just thought I'd post latest current draw for the Comet...
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2026/02/14/1000025491.jpg)
This if far closer to the original specifications and reviews from the 1950s suggesting 0.4A with no load. This is after using some very strong neodynium magnets on the poles of the Comets horseshoe magnet to re magnetise it. This reading is after the neodynium magnets had been removed, so with Comet in original configuration.
Regards to all.
David.
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Afternoon All
I've stripped down the second Comet, will give it a good clean and re magnetise the horse shoe magnet. The shaft is a bit tight but I think it's just gummed up with old oil as a bit of WD40 improved the situation so I'll take a look at that before rebuilding. It'll be interesting to be able to compare the two apparently identical motors when it comes to no load current draw.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2026/03/03/1000025920.jpg)
On a related matter, I've noticed that the 'Meteor' shaft is a little sloppy on it's bearing surfaces, I was thinking of using broaches to open up the paxolin to accept new brass sleeve bearings. I have both on hand from restoring a grandfather clock a few years ago. What do we think..? Reasonable plan, or better to try to make up new paxolin endplates..?
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2026/03/03/1000025922.jpg)
Best regards to all.
David.
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Afternoon All
I've stripped down the second Comet, will give it a good clean and re magnetise the horse shoe magnet. The shaft is a bit tight but I think it's just gummed up with old oil as a bit of WD40 improved the situation so I'll take a look at that before rebuilding. It'll be interesting to be able to compare the two apparently identical motors when it comes to no load current draw.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2026/03/03/1000025920.jpg)
On a related matter, I've noticed that the 'Meteor' shaft is a little sloppy on it's bearing surfaces, I was thinking of using broaches to open up the paxolin to accept new brass sleeve bearings. I have both on hand from restoring a grandfather clock a few years ago. What do we think..? Reasonable plan, or better to try to make up new paxolin endplates..?
Best regards to all.
David.
Easy to cut new end plates - the templates are on the web site. But cheaper to use new bushings, if you already have them.
You can get small ballraces the same size as those bushes, and that would be the most sophisticated solution!
For the Standard and above, the paxolin end plates are doubled, and a temporary solution is to losen them and slightly offset the shaft holes, thus holding the shaft a bit firmer..
-
Thanks for that, so I'll add the new brass bushes first, any issues with that and plan B will be new end plates.
I now have the second Comet refurbed, up and running again, good to have the pair ready to add to a boat as swap out units.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2026/03/04/1000025982.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2026/03/04/1000025981.jpg)
On the power supply, the second Comet is in the right ballpark with no load current, maybe a bit of running in or tweaking will change / improve the figure. This is first run of second Comet:
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2026/03/04/1000025980.jpg)
Best regards to all.
David.
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Hi David lovely job!
How did you re-magnetize the magnet? I just put a 8mm neodimium magnet on one end.
Roy
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I second roycv's comments! The polished brass looks particularly fine...
-
Thanks both. As part of the cleaning process both were stripped, brass parts were soaked in a citric acid / fairy liquid (other fine liquid soaps are available...) a tad of bicarbonate of soda and warm water. Then wire wool on the mounting plates.
I've noticed in the pictures that the magnets are in slightly different positions vertically compared to the paxolin plates, I thought I'd aligned then to the flat surface of my desk as I assembled them. I'll check this and see if it has an impact on that benchmark of no load draw.
I ended up using two 20mm x 10mm neodymium magnets attached to the ends of the horseshoe for a few hours, overnight basically. That seemed to pep up the magnetism quite a bit.
Best regards
David.
-
....
On a related matter, I've noticed that the 'Meteor' shaft is a little sloppy on it's bearing surfaces, I was thinking of using broaches to open up the paxolin to accept new brass sleeve bearings. I have both on hand from restoring a grandfather clock a few years ago. What do we think..? Reasonable plan, or better to try to make up new paxolin endplates..?
....
David.
A perfectly true Taycol should just hum gently when running. If the bearings are sloppy or the shaft is bent, you can detect a distinct buzz.
-
Progress with the Meteor...
I've sized two new brass plain bearings and pressed them into the end plates, kept the bearings flush on the inside faces:
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2026/03/05/1000025994.jpg)
And the other side:
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2026/03/05/1000025993.jpg)
On, and supporting the shaft:
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2026/03/05/1000025992.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2026/03/05/1000025995.jpg)
And the rest of the motor gets a bit of TLC, everything cleaned up and bathed in a mix of 3 in 1 and WD40:
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2026/03/06/1000026020.jpg)
And putting it back together:
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2026/03/06/1000026021.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2026/03/06/1000026022.jpg)
And back together:
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2026/03/06/1000026023.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2026/03/06/1000026024.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2026/03/06/1000026025.jpg)
After a check over, it went to the power supply...
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2026/03/06/1000026026.jpg)
I checked forward and reverse, both working, reverse giving about 50% of forward speed as it should. I'm not putting the manual reversing mechanism back, I'll be adding diodes for better RC control.
The motor is running / sounding very smooth, it's humming..! I'm very pleased with it. It also throttles pretty well, I tested it up to 6 volts, and down to 2 volts, it remained stable throughout. I understand it can be run up to 12 volts but I see no need to take it there to be honest.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2026/03/06/1000026027.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2026/03/06/1000026028.jpg)
Thanks for the support, I now have three refurbed Taycols and will be looking at how best control them using RC and turn to the boats for them. Meant to add, I'll give an update once I have the diodes and capacitors fitted to the Meteor. And I'll need to check what I should do to suppress the Comets.
Best regards
David.
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Progress with the Meteor...
.......
The motor is running / sounding very smooth, it's humming..! I'm very pleased with it. It also throttles pretty well, I tested it up to 6 volts, and down to 2 volts, it remained stable throughout. I understand it can be run up to 12 volts but I see no need to take it there to be honest.
.............
Thanks for the support, I now have three refurbed Taycols and will be looking at how best control them using RC and turn to the boats for them. Meant to add, I'll give an update once I have the diodes and capacitors fitted to the Meteor. And I'll need to check what I should do to suppress the Comets.
Best regards
David.
The commutator is the weak point in the smaller Taycols, and higher voltages wear them out faster. The big Taycols have a massive commutator - on one review it was estimated that the Standard could run at 20v.
If you want the ultimate in sophistication, the web site has a polarity detection and switching circuit for reversing using an op-amp....
-
Nice restoration but almost certain max voltage is 6 volts. Originally meant for dry battery, probably 2 off cycle headlight batteries.
I have used ordinary brass tubing for bearings, one a good fit to the shaft a second tube a close outer fit and a washer on back up (reemed to fit if necessary) all soldered together and then cut to fit.
I have one of the small mystery motors I do not know either!
Roy
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Afternoon Roy
Well I'd have agreed with you about a 6V max until I saw a review of the Meteor from 1958 (kindly sent over by Circlip), but I'll be staying at 6V for sure.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2026/03/07/1000026046.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2026/03/07/1000026045.jpg)
Best regards
David.
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Hi my 6 volt comment was meant for the Comet motor. I would happily run the Meteor on 7.2 volts. I would follow in your footsteps for the Meteor and other Taycol field coil motors I have but I shall never use them to power a boat so they stay as they are.
Regards
Roy
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As I recall, the commutators for the Comet and Meteor are pretty similar. The commutator is usually the weak point for the smaller Taycols, and the web site shows one in poor condition being repaired...
I suspect that 12v in 1958 was rarely delivered with the same current which would be common today! I agree with rovcv that a modern 12v is really too much for the smaller Taycols. Typical examples of the Comet which you will meet today will have less magnetism than design, and that means that the motor will run poorer, with a higher current drain and consequentially more commutator wear. 6v seems a good maximum to me.
The Meteor and other field coil motors won't change their magnetic characteristics, of course, and can be run up to whatever limit your commutators can take, so roycv's advice is sound here. Remember to lubricate the brushes!
Incidentally, many (most?) electric cars use permanent magnet motors. I wonder how long the magnetism lasts in them? It will give out eventually...
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Afternoon All
Thanks Roy and Dodgy for the input, and apologies if I've confused the issue by adding the Meteor to this thread. I was so pleased with the Comets that I saw the Meteor on ebay and thought why not..!
It did give me a hint of a plan, I've built the 1/10th Amati Aquarama and have the scratch 1/5th in build. I may do a similar approach with the Sea Urchin. Build it as it comes from Slec and use a Comet, but take templates to allow for a double size build, and maybe use the Meteor. The Slec kit is 16", so a doubling would be 32", sounds about right for the Meteor. I recall an article in MB that took the size of the Sea Urchin up to 28" I think. Any thoughts on that..?
Best regards
David.
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I was also following that pair of Comets on eBay ?with something similar in mind, but I am pleased that they ended up with a good home and that they will be used.
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Looking at the amount of views this little Sea Urchin has had (168,371 to date) it shows an amazing interest in vintage boats. As a young builder of a Sea Nymph around 1964, I also love this era and type of modelling.
I still run a Sea Nymph (from a 1990 reissue kit) but using a 2822 Out runner brushless motor and small LiPo battery. These small boats do not have much displacement and so hardware weight is a concern.
Mu old battered Sea Nymph was rebuilt to a longer version as at the time I was using a brushed motor and large 7.2V buggy batteries. This also now runs brushless as above with petrol motor performance.
Looking forward to the Sea Urchin on the water.
David
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If the Sea Urchin is being built from scratch, perhaps consider upscaling the model to accommodate the heavier motor and batteries etc. Might look good at 24".
David
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Afternoon David
Yes I agree, and as such we have a bit of 'project creep' already. Plan is currently to build the standard 16" Sea Urchin that I have here ready to start and that's going to use one of the Comets. Then I have a nice example of a Meteor, that I think might be right for a Sea Urchin in the 24" / 26" LOA range. Or... If I can find a nice Taycol Standard in next month or two, it would be a better fit in something like a 32" Sea Urchin.
And on another related matter, before the builds take place I am going to test a couple of conventional ESCs that I have here, and see if I can improve on their performance (not as in speed, I'm thinking more about control and reducing arcing, brush / commutator wear) with a homebrew ESC optimised for these vintage motors. For example I'm aware there are recommendations and differing opinions re the PWM range that the Taycols are comfortable with, I'd like to evaluate by testing for myself and will share the results.
Best regards
David.
-
...
And on another related matter, before the builds take place I am going to test a couple of conventional ESCs that I have here, and see if I can improve on their performance (not as in speed, I'm thinking more about control and reducing arcing, brush / commutator wear) with a homebrew ESC optimised for these vintage motors. For example I'm aware there are recommendations and differing opinions re the PWM range that the Taycols are comfortable with, I'd like to evaluate by testing for myself and will share the results.
Best regards
David.
I've noticed different perspectives but I can't recall contrary opinions on PWM, spark erosion and arcing.
-
.......
And on another related matter, before the builds take place I am going to test a couple of conventional ESCs that I have here, and see if I can improve on their performance (not as in speed, I'm thinking more about control and reducing arcing, brush / commutator wear) with a homebrew ESC optimised for these vintage motors. For example I'm aware there are recommendations and differing opinions re the PWM range that the Taycols are comfortable with, I'd like to evaluate by testing for myself and will share the results.
.....
The Taycol website would certainly be interested in publishing any such findings. I find that the field-wound motors behave rather differently to the perm magnet types, and that ferrite rings on the power leads are quite useful in suppressing spikes which upset the ESCs... You may also be interested in the op-amp reversing circuit shown on the site... See http://taycol.tk/relay1.html (http://taycol.tk/relay1.html)
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Afternoon All
Maybe my choice of words and explanation could have been better... The Taycols are new to me, but I'm enjoying the challenge of trying to get them running well and understanding them a little better. Some of what I've read is contradictory, not particularly on here, but generally. As was pointed out earlier in the thread, a faithful vintage build would go for a rheostat control or straight on / off or similar methods controls from same era. I'm not taking that route, but that means working with the Tacols to arrive at a good solution.
I have scoped out and have in build an Arduino Pro Mini based ESC with a pair of D4184 Mosfet modules, one forward, one astern. Initially for bench testing, but then for rollout if testing goes well, and seeing if I can exceed the capabilities of the off the shelf ESCs in the context of and focussing on the Taycols.
This will mean direct control and testing of various PWM frequencies, initially evaluating in the 1 to 4khz range while observing the motors, listening and feeling how happy they are, current consumption and so on. Also looking at a 'soft ramp' approach to passing power to the motors, being able to alter the ramp duration when feeding in and reducing power, aim being smooth and progressive power. I think modern batteries / ESCs can deliver so much more current that the controlled soft ramp will be very useful. Another option to evaluate is to use a sine ramp rather than linear, so change the shape of the power climb, might be a bit subtle on a propellor loaded motor, but I'd like to have the option.
The code allows for these optimal settings to be retained for each motor model and type (Comet and Meteor at the moment but others could be added.) Or even by specific motor given the motors may have different characteristics being the age they are.
I know that some will say this is not needed, some or all of these settings can be programmed into off the shelf ESCs, but I quite like the idea of more flexibility. We'll see if it pays off..! If it does I'm more than happy to share circuit and code.
Best regards to all.
David.
-
......
I have scoped out and have in build an Arduino Pro Mini based ESC with a pair of D4184 Mosfet modules, one forward, one astern. Initially for bench testing, but then for rollout if testing goes well, and seeing if I can exceed the capabilities of the off the shelf ESCs in the context of and focussing on the Taycols.
........
Watch out for heavy induced spikes coming back down the power line.
-
I'm glad at least someone is looking into what these parameters do.
RC electronic speed controls wouldn't run below 10kHz if it weren't for complications in getting there. The obstacles for the esc designer are the complexity in FET drive, and the need for an additional bulky, low esr capacitor. The NANKDAF psu with the current limit cranked up to maximum, and a 2,200 uF at its output, would simulate that.
500Hz to 4kHz is high enough to get past mechanical resonance but 4kHz doesn't eliminate the low-throttle current ripple for a low turn (low inductance) motor.
So if the project goal was to take the sledgehammer to elimate arcing I would use to the psu to show the achievable limit, rewind with more turns and increase esc frequency.
I've expressed my opinion on ramping before. It sacrifices a crisp throttle response to make it woolly. It's an easily implemented gimmick.
-
Just a thought! Does it all have to be so complicated when applying a method of speed control?
These old motors were designed at a time when simple rheostats were used to regulate current. Maybe this would be a more appropriate approach in keeping with the idea of replicating vintage model boats?
Applying modern ESCs to Taycol motors does seem to be a fundamental mismatch in trying to replicate the way things were done in the past.
Maybe a Bob's Board would be nearer to replicating the original setup?
Colin
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I think you're 100% correct Colin in that a rheostat / Bobs board would have been the go to if requiring smooth / basic speed control for the Taycols back in the day, and would still work well. And probably more fitting for a true 'vintage' build. There is the heat dissipation issue, but not too great with the smaller motors. Reversing would still need relays or some mechanism I'd have thought. And then issues again with workarounds needed for the field wound motors. I'm still learning about the motors, so I may have this wrong.
But I'm in a position for various reasons where I have more building time than out at the lake time. So I have time to give what could be a simple fix a bit more thought to look at alternatives, and that has taken me down the electronics path, so I gravitate to trying to find what I'd see as an (eventual) elegant solution, that is smooth Taycol motors that can reverse without drama or damage. But I appreciate that could be seen as over complicating the issue because it quite possibly is..! But I enjoy doing this part of the build and that's what it's all about I think.
Dodgy and HMS, the 'custom' ESC should be able to handle PWM frequencies from 200hz to 8khz (probably over 20khz but that's academic) with just a parameter change but the interesting range should be in the 1khz to 4khz for the Taycols I think. And the Mosfets should handle the power line surges. Or maybe I'll eat my words and chalk it up to experience..! We'll see. I use Ramp slopes on my FrSky ESCs on Brushless motors, just softens that potentially abrupt power delivery, and to my mind adds to a scale power response.
Best regards to all.
David.
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Rheostat reversing is clearer after searching "Bob's Models"+varispeed, then clicking a thumbnail image. You also see it brakes the motor at the centre position.
1kHz to 4kHz will show a pitch change from the low-throttle winding vibration tied to the ripple current. As the pwm frequency gets stepped the arcing diminishes with diminished amplitude of ripple current. Arcing will not have completely disappeared at 4kHz, but it will get smaller at 8kHz and 16kHz steps. A high inductance motor, by then, will be no worse and no better than smooth dc current throttle by your psu.
That can be distilled to "crank up the frequency to the limit of your fet drive."
I wonder if the contradiction you mention is down to 'AI search nonsense' or lack of relevant context in summary. If anyone bothers to eyeball brushed motor arcing at low throttle while you snip out suppression capacitors you will disprove the AI generated search result.
https://www.google.com/search?&q=do%20suppression%20capacitors%20reduce%20commutator%20arcing (https://www.google.com/search?&q=do%20suppression%20capacitors%20reduce%20commutator%20arcing)
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..... Reversing would still need relays or some mechanism I'd have thought. And then issues again with workarounds needed for the field wound motors.
.......
I'm very happy with the circuit shown on the Taycol site, which seems to function with very good power spike rejection. Probably because it only operates at the 0 volt crossover point, and has no logic components built into it
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Afternoon All
Not too much progress to report re the ESC, it's been on my desk for a month... I have considered Colin's comments re a Rheostat approach and I have planned out a way I'd do it, I have the nichrome, I have a design, just need some more time... Then it'll be interesting to compare with an ESC, off the shelf, and home brewed.
Reason for this post. I couldn't resist, I'm now the proud owner of a Taycol Marine...
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2026/07/09/1000029450.jpg)
Bit large for a standard Sea Urchin, but I think could be OK in a 32 inch version.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2026/07/09/1000029451.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2026/07/09/1000029452.jpg)
It's in lovely condition and runs smoothly with no discernible play on the main shaft, these figures are no load:
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2026/07/09/1000029453.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2026/07/09/1000029454.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2026/07/09/1000029455.jpg)
Ian (Circlip) has kindly sent me a copy of the 'Model Maker' June 1955 review to read through and get some background, power delivery and so on. Interesting that Taycol are quoted responding to the review, they state that the motor is best used at 1,500rpm drawing 2.5A at 6V.
And @Dodgy, this motor appears to be the same 'EM2' version that you have pictured on the taycol.tk site. Not sure what that means, this one also has steel nuts rather than brass, does that date it as a later version..?
Best regards to all.
David.
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Quite some motor. Lovely engineering.
Can you advise the weight of the item? Could be quite heavy; even for a 32" hull.
David
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Hi David
It is a beautiful piece of work for sure. And you're right, it's a bit hefty...
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2026/07/09/1000029480.jpg)
So just over 1kg... We'll see. I had in mind the Meteor for the larger build, that comes in at 350g, so might be more sensible. I just saw it up for sale, and couldn't resist...
When I get to the build of the hulls I'll take a view on what weight the larger build can be, and see what the options are.
Best regards
David.
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A real 'Marine'? With the drum commutator? I believe those to be really rare, and would love to see a picture of yours if it's in great condition. Take care of it, it should be worth a lot of money to a collector...
-
Seem to have lost the photos again, Same for Riva.
Regards Ian
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Hi Both
Pics were uploaded yesterday, but seems to be an issue with the MBM Image hosting right now.
https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/ (https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/)
David.
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What a beautiful motor, and little used. You're going to love it. Maybe a sea commander will suit it.
-
..... Maybe a sea commander will suit it.
The big Taycols will drive planing boats, but their weight is always an issue, and the Double Special is more suited to something like a big tug.
The best big motor for a fast boat is probably the Supermarine. The Supermarine Special has the added weight of two sets of coils.
The Marines have a single stator coil, but mine weighs an ounce or two more than my Supermarine - probably because the brushgear is heavier...
-
Hi Dave,
Sorry, some photos gone AWOL from Mayhem !
See: https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=61103.msg775199#msg775199
( I have a back of the old server if you need lost photos.... )
I'll made you moderator over this topic so you can edit your posts, maybe use : Postiage.org image uploader
https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,61103.msg719443.html#msg719443
[/color]
Hi Both
Pics were uploaded yesterday, but seems to be an issue with the MBM Image hosting right now.
https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/ (https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/)
David.
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I might have missed it... have you powered up the motors as yet?
How do they run?
Remember to oil the brushes first!
-
Have all the nice Taycol motor pictures gone?
Roy
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Afternoon Roy
Well, it's been a bit of an adventure over the past couple of weeks with the modelboatmayhem images website, it went down, and I've been helping Martin to get the archive back up and running, this is now done. There were a few missing recent images as I'd uploaded the Taycol pics after the last backup was taken on the old server, same issue on the Riva thread.
Slightly off topic... If anyone else is reading this who had an account on the 'old' https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/ (https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/) website, there is a new version of the website coming in next few days, it should allow existing users to log in and attach to their existing albums and images, that's the plan. And anyone else who wants to use it as an image hosting tool to support threads on this forum will be welcome too. By all means drop me a PM if interested, or once ready I'm sure Martin will add a note somewhere appropriate on the forum. Aim is to reconnect existing user accounts with their 'old' images, and to allow easy upload to this forum going forward, and to keep it in the legal framework, that's the tricky part..!
Anyway, just about sorted now, and here the Marine pics again:
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2026/07/09/marine1.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2026/07/09/marine2.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2026/07/09/marine3.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2026/07/09/marine4.jpg)
Best regards
David.
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I never thought that I would see one in such good condition! Where did you find it?
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ebay, not particularly cheap... But I agree with you it's in such good condition I don't think I could have found a better one... Original box too.