Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => Other Technical Questions... => Topic started by: flag-d on July 17, 2006, 08:41:51 am
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Waterproof access hatches on a wooden deck have always eluded me. How is it done? I'm talking about the hatches big enough to get to the internals; hatches where you can't put a raised coaming around because they're on a flat/cambered deck; hatches that you need to get to every time you sail and often during a sail too.
On my MTB, I have alarge hatch aft of the superstructure so I can get to the motors and prop UJ's etc and another aft of that, though much smaller, for access to the steering gear. Both sit on an internal seat and are as close fitting as I can get them, but water still 'pours' through into the hull, especially in a sea of any kind.
Come on chaps, you must have a host of workable ideas I can steal!
Mike
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FLAGD
What I have done on one of my yachts is went to my friendly signwriter ( don't know why they are called signwriters anymore as they use a computer to cut them out of vinyl) anyway he cuts for me several round or square peices of what ever colour you need and then stick them on the deck waterproof!!!
But you do have to change them every so often when they start to run out of sticking ability...
Roy
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On two of our tugs that are flat decked we cut the hatch to press fit exactly then put a combing down into the deck ( kind of down as opposed to the normal raised one!!!) running around the combing as near flush to the underside ofwhere the hatch will be, we glued some 4mm plastic channel a little like putting guttering in so the channel was mitred into the corners, this we put a smear of vaseline into. On the underside of the hatch we glued a corresponding 3mm rubber seal so that when the hatch is pushed in, all the rubber seal would fit into the corresponding trough below. Much easier with piccies I know but you get my drift. The result is NO ingress of that demon liquid. The only problem is that you need to attatch to the hatch a liitle of centre, even towards a corner some stout but subtly disguised peg that can be used to ease off the hatch way. We have used an oil drum on one and a generator on the other. Trust this helps.
Regards
The pirate
AKA Andrew
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Mike,
Packing/shipping tape works for me. It's sort of shinny so that might be a problem. If you really, really want to go to that much trouble, you could always paint the tape (no idea if you can or not, paint tape that is, and at a distance the 'shinny' tape isn't a problem for me).
- 'Doc
PS - Have you noticed a different expansion rate for hatches that are supposed to fit flush to the deck? With the warmer weather now, I've noticed one hatch that 'bows' quite a bit in the sun. Cut from the deck to start with so is the same material. Just seems odd.
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cover the inner side if the hatch with clingfilm.
Smear sylicon sealant around the lip and fit the hatch, leave to dry. Remove the hatch and gently peel away the clingfilm.
fit a few small screws in the corners and if a large hatch one along the length each side.
This gives a tight fitting watertight hatch.
Paint the screws the same colour as the deck and you can hardly notice them.
Bob
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Flag-D, I fully agree to Bob. My hatches use to rest in a frame made out of U-Shaped Brass profiles. I put a little release agent around the hatch and smear carefully some silicone inside the frame and press the hatch in. After it is all dry the hatch can be taken off and be fixed with a center lock-screw. Absolutely dry, no problems with water anymore.
Hope this was out of any help.
J?rg
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Pirate: Your technique was one that I was considering, and it obviously works so I may well try it out. Thanks.
Shipmate60: Hmm, an interesting one there. I hadn't thought of using the clingfilm to replicate the surfaces so everything is tickety-boo. Thanks also.
As I have 2 hatches, I might try both techniques!
Thanks all
Mike
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Hi all,
I am currently re building a tug which has the same problem. Large rear flush deck area.
My solution was to build a raised box inside the hull with a fit over lid. Any water getting through the deck area, will simply slop around inside the hull, but is kept away from the electricy bits.
After half an hours sailing I will simply syphon out any water.
Bob
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Do you think something like this might work? Once the channel and angle are glued in place, I'd put some cling-film over the angle, then a smear of vaseline over that, blob some silicone into the trough and fir the hatch/superstructure. Once dry, remove hatch/superstructure, peel off vaseline/cling-film from angle, smear a little vaseline onto angle and re-fit.
Mike
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MIke,
Looks like it should work. And if you dropped the light-blue thingy down by the thinkness of the red thingy, it'd be flush with the deck.
- 'Doc
PS - Hope you understood all the technical words...
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Flag-D, exactly what I`ve meant! ;)
(But as Jonny Foreigner sometimes I miss the words to describe it- will try to improve my Technical English anyway).
J?rg