Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Working Vessels => Topic started by: oldiron on May 01, 2008, 03:46:32 pm
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Not trying to flog a well rode horse, but I've got one of the ubiquitos Smit Nederlands on the go. I though I'd share a little different construction technique for this popular vessel as opposed to that described in Billings instructions..
I'm building this tug for towing competition and as a result wanted the deck to be solid and sealed to prevent water ingress to the hull. Billings designs the boat to have the majority of the deck lift off. This leaves a problem of sealing the vast seam against water. To get around this I made the only opening underneath the deckhouse with all access to and from the hull through there. In so doing I also relocated the battery and motors to provide ease of access. This shifted the design weighting of the vessel to be more central to the hull displacement, so the vessel doesn't take the head down apporoach in the water requiring a great amount of weight in the stern.
The vessel is still under construction but I'll follow up as I go.
oldiron
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Interesting looking motors!
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Interesting looking motors!
The motors are old Dumas motors I picked up from an estate sale. They had an extra sheet metal covering over them. Not sure what it did, but I removed it and the extra space was just enough to allow the battery to slide out between the motors uninterrupted.
oldiron
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Sometimes DC motors had an extra sleeve to enhance the magnetic field and act as a bit of a heat sink.....
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:)
I shall watch to see how you balance that fore and aft with the motors and batteries as illustrated. I am working on my Nederland rebuild but took a slightly different approach to the waterproofing issue.
Regards,
banjo
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Sometimes DC motors had an extra sleeve to enhance the magnetic field and act as a bit of a heat sink.....
I think they are called "Stator" rings, usually an intergrated part of the motor performance design.....
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Sometimes DC motors had an extra sleeve to enhance the magnetic field and act as a bit of a heat sink.....
I think they are called "Stator" rings, usually an intergrated part of the motor performance design.....
I was wondering if they had anything to do with reinforcing the magnet field of the stator. Sounds like that may be the case based on what you're saying. I can slip them back on again if needs be.
The battery is pretty well right in the center of the vessel. When i lift it up it feels well balanced for and aft. I'll be putting it the bathtub shortly to check out the water line and level. I post how i make out.
oldiron
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:)
I shall watch to see how you balance that fore and aft with the motors and batteries as illustrated. I am working on my Nederland rebuild but took a slightly different approach to the waterproofing issue.
Regards,
banjo
Just tried the Nederland in the water with the batteries and motors as shown in the pics. She is light in the bow, however, there is lots of room fwd. for weight, plus the pilot house and radio gear haven't been added yet. The radio gear is going in the bow. With those additions I expect her to come level then add weight for final depth to waterline.
oldiron
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oldiron,
The sheet metal coverings on the motors are called "Flux or Torque" Rings.
The theory is it reduces the "stray" magnetic field and keeps it within the armature windings and increasing the torque of the motor.
As I said that is the theory, in a model I have not found much difference with or without.
Bob
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oldiron,
The sheet metal coverings on the motors are called "Flux or Torque" Rings.
The theory is it reduces the "stray" magnetic field and keeps it within the armature windings and increasing the torque of the motor.
As I said that is the theory, in a model I have not found much difference with or without.
Bob
bob:
Thanks for the information. It makes sense......in theory. However, as you say, on a model motor I expect the noticed difference would be fractional at best. Almost seems like an after thought in the construction of the motor as if they were trying to correct a perceived deficency in motor design.
oldiron
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O0
I also had an issue with the rudder servo and access to the linkage. How are you solving that?
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harbor models sells a cable and pully set up that would work great for this set up ;)
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harbor models sells a cable and pully set up that would work great for this set up ;)
Great idea, thanks for the tip. I was thinking along the line of a brass tube under the deck, with a steel rod through it, clevises at each end (one for servo an one for rudder). I'm going to look closer at the cable idea too.
oldiron
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here's the pic and info from harbor
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q162/bigfordf550/steering_solution.jpg)
The Steering Solution is an effective means to control steering through the application of a unique cable and pulley system attached to the rudder posts. A servo, not supplied with steering solution, powers the cable. For large props of 3" or larger, the use of a high torque is suggested for overcoming strong prop wash. The rudders can be smoothly turned 90 degrees without the steering mechanism locking up as can occur with piano wire and bell cranks. Snapping the rudders a full 90 degrees on a kort nozzle set will allow the boat to walk sideways for tight maneuvering.
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:)
The query I had about rudders was that the deck appears to be secured but on the bath test I couldn't see the rudders installed.......
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:)
The query I had about rudders was that the deck appears to be secured but on the bath test I couldn't see the rudders installed.......
For the test I had installed the hull fittings for the rudders, but left the rudders off. The deck wasn't permanenly fastened down at that point.
oldiron
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:)
Just for a moment.......... O0
There was a guy on RC Model Boats Forum who made a beautiful barrel back 1930s model, and everyone was watching his progress, double skinned mahogany, etc etc...... he had forgotten the rudders.....
Will you be going with the "Becker" rudder system?
I wish you every success with this build and hope you will continue to post your progress....
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:)
Just for a moment.......... O0
There was a guy on RC Model Boats Forum who made a beautiful barrel back 1930s model, and everyone was watching his progress, double skinned mahogany, etc etc...... he had forgotten the rudders.....
Will you be going with the "Becker" rudder system?
I wish you every success with this build and hope you will continue to post your progress....
Banjo:
Thanks very much.
Yes I'm using the Becker system. I got the Billings fittings kit when I purchased the hull and the rudders came with it. However, the Kort nozzles didn't come with it, so I'm going to have to scratch build them. Been thinking about the best way to do it. My first thought was plastic water/drain pipe, however I don't think it has a thick enough wall to allow me to turn down the taper. My other thought is to roll it in copper or brass, at least them I can get the correct angle on them.
Took a look at a barrel back on that group.....beautiful work. Would that ever be annoying (and embarrasing) to forget the rudders. Every summer, for one day in July, we have an antique and classic boat show in Gravenhurst with a large number of full size mahogany runabouts, such as that, on display and running. Makes for an eye popping day.
oldiron
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here's the pic and info from harbor
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q162/bigfordf550/steering_solution.jpg)
That looks a huge servo load!
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:)
This could well be your lucky day!
I have a pair of Korts for a Nederland going spare....
Now the hard sell...
You can have them for what they cost me....
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here's the pic and info from harbor
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q162/bigfordf550/steering_solution.jpg)
That looks a huge servo load!
And totally un necessary with "Becker" rudders"
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:)
This could well be your lucky day!
I have a pair of Korts for a Nederland going spare....
Now the hard sell...
You can have them for what they cost me....
Thanks very much. Most appreciated. I'll contact you off line to arrange payment and postage etc.
oldiron
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:)
As I said your lucky day....
They didn't cost me anything!!
You pay postage thats all.....
O0
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Way to go, Banjo. What a neat gesture.
Like you, I'm absolutely smitten with this build. Mr. Oldiron is obviously a man with an eye for quality workmanship.
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:)
PMK
I was a bit miffed at first when I saw this thread. I thought I had bragging rights on re-decking Nederlands,,but being a few cannon balls short of a broadside myself, and seeing the Gent short of Korts, I came to my senses and in the Mayhem spirit made the magnificent offer you remarked upon!!!!
Besides....he is from Canada....
;D
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Here a re-decking I saw at Wicksteed park lake a couple of years ago....
I liked the idea of the open topped radio box that formed a sort of internal cofferdam.
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Smart build makes my Tito look thrown together :(
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Smart build makes my Tito look thrown together :(
It was !!!! {-)
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Shush >>:-(
Smart build makes my Tito look thrown together :(
It was !!!! {-)
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I've been working away on the deck and sorting out a few areas there. One of the key construction considerations in going into this project was the fact it would be used in tug towing and handling competitions. To meet my needs in that area, I needed a deck that was water tight and STRONG. In my tug class, I have to pull a 350lb. barge. The Billings design wouldn't cut the mustard. The deck would soon be lifted off as soon as the hawser went tight.
To that end, the one piece deck that aid s the water problem and also makes it quite strong. To increase the strength, I've reinforced the underside of the deck at pints where berthing bollards and towing bollards are fixed. I'll be making the towing bollards from brass rod with 4-40 threaded rod from below each bollard post. On the underside of the deck the threaded rod well be fastened with a large washer and lock nut sealed with a touch of silicone sealant. In the photos you'll see the reinforcing pieces.
To seal the deck I'm going to coat it with fiberglass resin, both sides (hope to get that done today). The top side will be sanded smooth after installation, and painted.
I've left two aft hatches to access the steering gear. On the drawing a hawser drying rack is shown. I'm taking advantage of that one to act as a dike to prevent water accessing the hull. The contents of the drying rack will be lifted out in one piece to access the gear. I've settled on a cover for the bollard side hole. That'll come in the fullness of time.
I've also done a rough up of the tween deck to carry the radio gear and servo. It'll be removable and bow weaight can go beneath it,
The remainder of the top side should be straight forward, however, I do have an idea for the winch that may be of interest to tug competition people. More on that later.
oldiron
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:)
Towing strong point..
The towing bit on my Tito goes through the deck and is secured in a hardwood block epoxied to the hull. (see pic from remote cam inside hull)
might be an idea for you?
(its 1/4" mild steel U shaped)
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:)
Towing strong point..
The towing bit on my Tito goes through the deck and is secured in a hardwood block epoxied to the hull. (see pic from remote cam inside hull)
might be an idea for you?
(its 1/4" mild steel U shaped)
I have the same idea but do you mean the Gog eye, my working winch is affixed to a deck and has steel braces for strength.
I lift my Tito in and out of the water via the Gog eye and another forward.
R
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O0
Gog eye....why aye....Oh my... {-)
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If this will help
Both lift points are bonded to the hull with resin so I know they strong enough O0
R,
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:)
The weight of Tito I trust only to web straps around the outside.... I am sure that you have made it secure but being an old cynic, and if it can happen it will, then one of these days you will be lifting it by the deck, on the tilt, and thats when the tears will flow....mine too.
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BTW we are stealing his thread!!!
sorry oldiron
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BTW we are stealing his thread!!!
sorry oldiron
Not a problem......its all good stuff. I like your Tito idea. Thanks for the tip Never thought about using the Gog eyes to lift in and out of the water, beats wading in up to my personals in cold water.
On my Master (see SSMaster new construction thread) I soldered the towing bolards to a brass plate then screwed that to an equally larrge brass plate under the deck. I did a smiliar arangement on the forward towing bollard. I can lift half the weight of the 25lb vessel with either bollard, but i don't think I'd push my luck lifting the whole thing. Never thought about doing it with the Smit.
oldiron
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:)
John
Are you going to fit any bulkheads or deck beams?
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Both lift points are bonded to the hull with resin so I know they strong enough O0
Sorry for another butt in...... Never seen that before Catengineman, very clever! O0
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Sorry for this butt in Thank you Martin there is a VS tug out there with the same idea (Venture) O0
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:)
John
Are you going to fit any bulkheads or deck beams?
I wasn't going to fit bulkheads, but I do have four deck beams. There are only three in the photos, I've added another one since. I've got the underside of the deck resin coated now too (since I posted the pics this AM). I was going to ask you about the bulheads as I noticed you put them in yours. You mentioned about the hull being floppy once you removed the old deck. Was your hull fiberglass or a plastic PVC type of material? Mine is blown fibreglass and was quite stiff without the bulheads, hence I just went with deck beams to support the deck and give some lateral support to the hull. I don't know if Billings change their hull materials over the years. Dumas did that with their Brooklyn kit.....went from fiberglass to floppy plastic.
On your build I noticed you used an adhesive called Z-Poxy. Its a product I haven't heard of. Is it made to use with plastices so there;'s no distortion?
I did an oil tanker (1925 vintage) and used styrene on the decks scribed to simulate steel plate. I held it down with water base contact cement. It doesn't distort plastic and doesn't smell, but holds like crazy. Just wondered if your stuff was a similar item.
oldiron
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:)
http://zap.supergluecorp.com/zapepoxy.html
Its from USA. That site will give you all the gen.
Mine was an old ABS hull.
I wanted to isolate the "back end" What H2O that may come in via the rudders stays where it is. Its a faultfinding aid!
It has stiffened up the whole boat famously without having to rely on the deck for strength.
BTW my local post office was closed Sat by the time I got there & its a Bank Holiday tomorrow but it will be in the POST soon.....
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:)
http://zap.supergluecorp.com/zapepoxy.html
Its from USA. That site will give you all the gen.
Mine was an old ABS hull.
I wanted to isolate the "back end" What H2O that may come in via the rudders stays where it is. Its a faultfinding aid!
It has stiffened up the whole boat famously without having to rely on the deck for strength.
BTW my local post office was closed Sat by the time I got there & its a Bank Holiday tomorrow but it will be in the POST soon.....
Under the heading of you're never too old to learn something new..... I've heard of ZAP cyano glues, but didn't know they had a line of epoxy type adhesives too. Interesting, and thanks for the URL. Its funny with the States, we don't always get evrything north of the border that they have.........sometimes thats just as well.
Good idea on the fault finding aid. I can see where that would be of benefit
oldiron
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The progress on the Nederland has slowed a bit due to comitments on a much larger vessel. However, huge thanks to Banjo, he sent me a set of Kort nozzles I was missing. A couple of beers coming your way Banjo....best bitter I hope.
I've mounted the nozzles with no problem. I've made two bollards, one for towing and the other (a Gob eye?), from solid brass rod.. They have been reinforced under the deck with steel bar.. Hopefully this should be strong enough. The deck will be sealed down with epoxy or fiberglass resin so there shouldn't be any chance of it lifting.
Hope to get back at it shortly to permanently install all the bits and fasten the deck down.
oldiron
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Been working on getting the Becker rudders installed in the hull in a nice straight and true fashion. I've found it to be somewhat awkard due to to the thickness and shape of the blown fiberglass hull. An ABS hull is much thinner and, I suspect, much more even in crossection. Thus when the rudders are installed they will tend to stay more or less upright instead of splaying out like the tail fins on an F16 fighter, as happens with the glass hull. Time for a solution. Hence this tale:
To begin with I picked a scrap bit of wood that had a reasonably square crosection. Then I measured the exact distance between the skegs on the Kort nozzles installed on the tug. I translated this distance to the block of wood and drilled two holes to accept lengths of brass tube. The inside diameter of the brass tube is such that it comfortably accepts the fastening arrangement of the rudders.
The block of wood was placed under the hull with the tubes coming up through somewhat oversize holes in the hull. Ensuring the tubes are straight up and down in all directions the area around the tubes, inside the hull, is to be epoxyed. When the epoxy has set up the tubes are cut off square above and below the hull. There is now a recptacle straight and true and in line with the skegs to accept the rudders.
I expect this may be of assistance in other builds when trying to get multiple rudders lined correctly.
oldiron
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Old Iron
Simple, effective and definitely in the 'why didn't I think of that category'. Thanks for sharing.
Doug
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I return once again. I left this build back in late summer due to other time commitments that come along with the changing seasons. One of the biggest being I don't like spending time in my downstairs workshop when its nice outside.
Never the less I got back at the project this fall and we continue.
The motor mounting base was permanently installed in the hull using silicone sealant to attach the board to the hull. I used this as it is impervious to water, fill in the profile inconsistency's in the fiberglass and provides some degree of sound isolation of the motor operation from the fiberglass hull.
Once installed an leveled the motors were installed along with the prop hafts and couplings. The deck was now fastened to the hull using the epoxy. The deck sat nicely inside the hull and on top of the previously installed wood lip.
After this is was off to the bath tub for a float test. With the battery installed, and no weight forward it road a little bow high, as expected. I have plenty of room, forward for lead shot ballasting. This will be done when the water line and full weight is finally established.
At this point I was happy with the result.
John
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Now was time to start on the deck house structure. I used birch plywood for this as it gives a fine grain on the outside that is easy to fill and provide a smooth metal like finish when painted. When I finished its construction I covered it with a very fine body filler that is ideal for model use and is easy to sand. Body people use it as a finishing filler/leveler when doing body work on cars. This was sanded till smooth then scratch primered. There was n trace of wood grain anywhere on the deck house when done.
The handrails where then installed using traditional brass techniques.
The pilot house I constructed from styrene with my best guess as to internals based on photos and the limited information on the drawings. If anyone has some good pics of the pilot house interior I would appreciate seeing them.
John
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Pilot house pics...........
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Pilot house..............
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Nice work! Pilot house build has given me some ideas of how to change one here. Window frames - all strip stock?
Look forward to the progress with this,
regards,mike
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Nice work! Pilot house build has given me some ideas of how to change one here. Window frames - all strip stock?
Look forward to the progress with this,
regards,mike
Mike:
Thanks very much.
Yup, the pilot house windows are trimmed in styrene strip. Its a bit fiddly, but with care it can be done. When you pre bend the styrene for the corners be gentle and don't bend it back on itself too much or it'll split. If you can warm the strip a little before hand it'll make the going easier.
John
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with the pilot house well on its way, I decided to tackle the bulwarks around the perimeter of the hull. I made the rib extensions from 1/16 birch plywood. I left a tab on the end of them that would fit into a notch I milled into the deck. These were cyanoed into the notches to hold them in place. As a guide to their installation, to keep them all in line, I installed the first and last of a row, then clamped a piece of bass wood across them from end to end (see pic). I could then move the remainder up to the basswood guide and cyano them into place. This ensured they were all, more or less, in line from end to end.
When these were all in place I cut the bulwarks from 1/32 birch plywood and trimmed and installed them onto the frame extensions (see pic). Again, they were cyanoed to the frame extensions. At the joints a piece of ply was cut that fit between the frame extensions exactly and cyanoed those in place. This gave a strong backing for the bulwark butt joint.
In order to form the bulwarks around corners, the ply was steamed over a kettle until the ply could be bent smoothly without cracking. An industrious person could probably make a steamer from some ABS drain pipe, or similar, that could do the job more efficiently.
John
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more bulwarks............
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To back up a bit. Before I put the deck into its final position, I decided to try an alternate battery mounting method. This new arrangement placed a battery tray over the prop shafts and the battery was laid horizontally on top of the tray. The battery can't come out the top because of the proximity to the deck and there are stops on three sides for lateral movement. There will be a forward removable stop to stop the battery from sliding out forward.
The original arrangement stood a slightly larger battery vertically between the motors. I may still go that route yet.
John
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There is the danger that the higher the battery, the higher the chance of inherent stability?
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There is the danger that the higher the battery, the higher the chance of inherent stability?
I quite agree, however, I believe in either case the bulk of the battery is below the water line and the vessel should still be stable. I have two other vessels with the battery(s) at least at this level relative to the water line and they come across with no stability problems.
The tall pilot house can also contribute to an instability problem, however I've tried to make it as light as possible to reduce the effect. We'll see what she's like when I get it done.
John
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Continuing on with the build, I have gon on to add a cap to the bulwark. The drawings show a cap, however, I haven't seen much in the way of photos to suggest exactly what it looks like. Hence I'm following what I interpret the drawings to be.
I've trimmed the top of the bulwarks, inside and out, with basswood strip. It was steamed to make it around the corners without splitting. This was cyanoed to the ply bulwarks. The top of the bulwark was then trimmed in Evergreen styrene strip and the whole lot lightly sanded to clean up an errant rough or out of line edges.
John
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Well I've finished the bulwarks to the point of priming. I saturated the wood of the bulwarks with cyano to , both, toughen the wood and make it impervious to water. I then smoothed them with body shop "icing' filler. Its a really fine easy to apply and easy to sand body filler that is very close to the texture of cake icing.......hence the term. This was followed with "scratch primer" and sanded again.
The hull is now ready for painting. Perhaps tomorrow.
John
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Very nice work!
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Very nice work!
Thanks very much
JHV
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comming along beautifly. everythings been done so nice and neatly :-)) What colour do you plan on painting it?
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comming along beautifly. everythings been done so nice and neatly :-)) What colour do you plan on painting it?
Thanks very much. I'm going to do it in the Smit colours: blue stack, white deck house, green deck, black hull and bulwarks to the water line and oxide red below. I found a picture in a book on tugs, yesterday, that has an excellent down on picture of the forward deck showing the anchor windlass, bollards and another smaller winch. It'll come in handy for detailing the forward deck properly.
John
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Since I 'm scratch building this version of the Nederland I didn't have the pleasure of being able to use Billings hawse hole (correct word?) castings to install in the bulwarks. Hence I had to come up with a method of getting the oblong and cast appearance into one fairly simply. I turned up a piece of brass, the correct diameter, the lathe. When parted off it gave a very nice round hawse hole piece. Now to make it oblong. Hmmmmm. I placed it in a vice, narrow bit between the jaws, then heated it red hot with a propane torch. I then tightened up on the vice to get the correct oblongyness.
When done, the turning flange takes a decided dome shape. The piece went back in the vice again, held loosely by the narrow bit. The domed top was struck with a hammer using a piece of aluminum as a drift. Worked well. All pieces set in the bulwarks and laid flat. i hel them in place with epoxy.
When all five were installed I primered the bulwarks and the turnings for paint.
John
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Now's time to prep and spray the hull paint. I began by lightly sanding the hu;; with about 380 grit paper. This roughened up the surface and allowed me to find any globs of glue, epoxy etc that I dropped in the construction process. When I was done that I wiped the whole down with a paper towel dampened in lacquer thinner to remove any grease or other chemicals on the surface. I then sprayed the whole with etching primer, including the rudder and prop shaft components.
After the primer had set, I sprayed the whole again with a high build scratch primer. This was lightly sanded again with about a 400 paper. the whole was wiped down again to get rid of any dust. I then applied a finish coat of oxide red paint.
I left it over night to harden before masking off for the black coat. When masked off. I applied a cot of semi gloss black to the upper part of the hull and the outer side of the bulwarks.
When that sets up, I'll go back and paint the green deck and buff inner bulwarks. The pilot and deck house is just about ready for paint
John
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This looks really good. Very neat.
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Nice work! I used the same way for making oblong holes edges for my steam tug on Saturday :-). But instead of turning, I just took some brass portholes with rounded edges and pressed them in the vice.
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Nice work! I used the same way for making oblong holes edges for my steam tug on Saturday :-). But instead of turning, I just took some brass portholes with rounded edges and pressed them in the vice.
Thanks very much. Yeh, I wasn't so lucky as to have some on hand so I had to make them. The method seems to work OK though doesn't it?
John
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This looks really good. Very neat.
Thanks very much.
John
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O0
I like it!
BTW Happy New Year Everyone...
alan
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O0
I like it!
BTW Happy New Year Everyone...
alan
Thanks very much.
How're you doing?
John
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<:(
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<:(
Sorry to hear that.
John
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test
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"Can you hear me Mouther?!
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"Can you hear me Mouther?!
Hello?...............Hello?.........Louder
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Hi Oldiron,
My first ever attempt at building a model boat was the Billings Smit Nederland, I bought the whole kit, including fittings pack, at a local model shop. Due to my ignorance at the time I didn't realise it was intended for experienced modellers and there were no instructions in the box ! I kept at it and after 5 years of extreme frustration I finally got it built and sailing.
If only I had known about this forum then, the likes of yourself would have saved me many a heartache.
At some point in time I'll try and get some photo's of my vessel and show everyone how not to do it !
Now to the point of my reply......how do you make the oiling/greasing points on your proptubes i.e. what size hole to drill in the tube and how to attach the vertical part.
Also, I had a number of attempts at making the fore & aft "buffers" ? with the wood supplied in the kit - no joy. Then Hey Presto ! I found and old timing belt from a car, the belt being of the "toothed" variety. This was turned inside out, cut to size, and epoxied to the bow and stern respectively. They have stayed in place, though with hindsight maybe I should also nut & bolt them to the hull.
Finally, for my bulwark capping, I cut the outer rubber tubing from an electric cable (lengthwise obviously) and the natural curvature of the tubing gripped nicely onto the wood of the bulwarks.
I have read the whole of your thread to date and am well impressed with your workmanship. I look forward to seeing your project to completion.
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Thanks very much for your kind words. Please, by all means, post some pictures of your build. We'd like to see it.
I've attached a couple of photos of my grease points. They are small lengths of brass tube soldered onto the prop shaft tube. After, the prop shaft tub is drilled through to allow grease to pass through. Since my grease points are slightly under the deck, I'm going to put plastic tubing over the grease point an run it up to the deck opening below the deck house. I'll make a clamp to hold it on place at that point. The prop tubes can then be greased at deck level. (see photo).
For the "buffers" I'm going to use old wet suit material. I've done that on one of my other tugs and it seems to work well. I fastened it to the hull with Walthers GOO. To imitate the sections on the prototype, slice the material vertically to make it look like different sections of rubber. The wet suit material is held together, on the back, with nylon cloth. This makes an ideal place to glue the material to your hull. See the phot of one of my other tugs withe material on the stern.
Strange you mentioned timing belt, I just had mine (the car's) replaced. I should go and get it and give it a try.
I like your way of making the bulwark cap. Wish I'd done it that way myself, a lot less frustration.
John
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Hello again Oldiron,
Thanks for the info and photo's vis greasiing points. Your idea of a sealed deck is great, I'm now seriously considering stripping my "Neddy" down to the hull and trying again.
It'll have to join the queue though
If I do go ahead with it I'll post some "before & after" pics on the forum.
Note: I was so relieved to finish the build the first time, I actually threw the Billings plans away - what an idiot ! - still, that's another lesson learned.
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Hello again Oldiron,
Thanks for the info and photo's vis greasiing points. Your idea of a sealed deck is great, I'm now seriously considering stripping my "Neddy" down to the hull and trying again.
It'll have to join the queue though
If I do go ahead with it I'll post some "before & after" pics on the forum.
Note: I was so relieved to finish the build the first time, I actually threw the Billings plans away - what an idiot ! - still, that's another lesson learned.
I've got a copy of the Billings plans. if you need a copy let me know.
John
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Hey John,
That would be fantastic - I'll send you a PM with my details - let me know the costs involved and I'll reimburse.
Great Stuff ! Enthusiasm building up all the time.
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Took a day this week to make the display stand for the Neddy more interesting. Used a peice of plywood as the base, then did it up as the floor of a dry dock. The local Dollar Store had some 1/24 scale automotive shop tools at a reasonable price. I picked them up, added a bit of weathering, and fastened them to the deck for effect. I'll have to look for some figures now. Looks like Helath and Safety will being have words about that acetylene bottle on its side and the fact it isn't tied off.
John
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(Tongue in cheek)
You are getting rather good at this model making stuff.
Sorry about my last.. <:(
was feeling very low....
I haven't touched my modelling stuff since well before Christmas, I feel that I suddenly got old!! Its the weather....things will seem better when the Sun comes out again!
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Hi John,
That's a brilliant idea for a display stand ! Looks like the "dockies" are away for another tea-break at the mo.....
The crew (cast in white metal) for my Neddy were bought at a boat show in Doncaster - think it was model slipway who had them on their trade stand.
Sorry, still no photo's of my Neddy yet, still trying to nick me daughters digital camera !
Another good source for "crew" is the local charity shops. Farm hands, mechanics etc... can all be made to look like seafarers.
O0
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(Tongue in cheek)
You are getting rather good at this model making stuff.
Sorry about my last.. <:(
was feeling very low....
I haven't touched my modeling stuff since well before Christmas, I feel that I suddenly got old!! Its the weather....things will seem better when the Sun comes out again!
No apologies necessary. I understand exactly how you feel. Winter gets me down too, and we've got six months of it.
I'd like to see you continue on with your Nederland. I watched your thread, but haven't seen the finish. Hopefully the warmer weather will cheer things up again.
all the best
john
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Hi John,
That's a brilliant idea for a display stand ! Looks like the "dockies" are away for another tea-break at the mo.....
The crew (cast in white metal) for my Neddy were bought at a boat show in Doncaster - think it was model slipway who had them on their trade stand.
Sorry, still no photo's of my Neddy yet, still trying to nick me daughters digital camera !
Another good source for "crew" is the local charity shops. Farm hands, mechanics etc... can all be made to look like seafarers.
O0
Thanks very much.
The crew on tea break......yeh, its a union job, so you know that goes.
I'll have to look on Model Slipway's site and see what they have.
John
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The build saga continues. I finished up the mast yesterday at sorted the mounting platform on the stacks to take it. The "Neddy" finally has her crown.
The mast is built from soldered together brass tubing with Billings lanterns on the end bits. I've set up the three forward lights to operate. I felt the aft three were too small to bother trying to light. Besides, they are operated in a certain pattern when a tug is towing and depending on what its towing. I didn't want to go to that fancy a switching arrangement.
In order to facilitate the construction of the platform to hold the mast, I made a small piece of dummy deck to hold the stack. This I clamped in the vice jaws on the bench. The stacks were then set on locating pins and set onto the dummy deck. Tis arrangement held the stacks in place while I measured and assembled everything. Saves having it fall all over the floor when trying to build it.
John
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Hi John,
The stand looks good John.
G. George
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I'm slowly working my way through the Neddy. In this stage I've redone the original Billings anchor windlass with brakes and built up frame. I extended the top of the gearbox and added chain locks to the chutes(?) to the hawse pipe openings. In order to determine the details I went by a photo I found in the book "Under Tow" by Donal M.Baird. Its the only photo I've found that shows the fore deck of the prototype Neddy class tug. I still have to build and install the extra large size winch in front of the windlass. The billings drawings show a towing bit in front of the windlass. Evidently this was removed at some point and this winch installed that is hydraulically operated and controlled from the wheel house.
John
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.a couple more pics
John
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Thought I'd through in a shot of the painted and completed stacks and mast
John
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Nice work there John
Mark
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Nice work there John
Mark
Thanks Mark.
John
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Lookin' good John,
Judging by the photos' those handrails look spot on - well done :-))
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Looking good! :-))
I like the subtle weathering in the winch etc.
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Your model looks great as always. Hope to see you early summer.
Thanks for the pictures.
Best
Wilhelm
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Thank you for your kind comments gentlemen.
Does anyone have a photo(s) of the interior of the pilot house on the "Neddy" type tugs. I'd like to detail the interior of it, but the info I have is sketchy.
thanks
John
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The latest update as work slowly moves forward at the progress of molasses in January.
I've put together the aft towing bow for the Neddy. I made it from brass because I want it durable for towing and it has to be removable to get at the steering gear. I bent two strips of 3/16 x 16" strips of brass to the required shape and length. When done I fashioned and soldered on the center post the the two outside end supports. In order to solder on the mid diagonal supports I made a jig of wood (see pic) to hold the various bits for soldering. (In the process of this I dropped it on the floor twice and had to redo the thing after each drop >>:-(). Anyway, it got done. Afterward I primed and painted it to suit. In order to mount it on the deck, and leave it removable, I turned up a brass bush to fit the center support of the bow. I then drilled an appropriate hole int the deck and installed the bush. The bow center support now sits in the hole when the bow is installed.
I also made one cover for the steering gear access in the deck. I made a cover that simulates a hawser rack. It is made of styrene and has a false bottom in it. The rack will be filled with the appropriate hawser appearing material. It simply lifts off to gain access to the steering gear. This maintains the deck integrity and limits water access into the hull.
John
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hi oldiron
super bit of brass work a very nice tug too :-)) :-)
regards jason
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hi oldiron
super bit of brass work a very nice tug too :-)) :-)
regards jason
Thanks very much for your kind comments.
John
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Hi John your making a great job of her, this was my first build some years back. I wish I had built her with a full deck, as i had quite a few problems with water. Heres a link to a great site with quite a few Smit tugs. www.tugboats.de/index2e.html
Brian
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Hi John your making a great job of her, this was my first build some years back. I wish I had built her with a full deck, as i had quite a few problems with water. Heres a link to a great site with quite a few Smit tugs. www.tugboats.de/index2e.html
Brian
Thanks for the comments. Also, thanks for the heads up on the web site. I took a look. Some interesting and useful information on there.
John
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Its been quite a while since I've posted anything on this topic. Been too busy on other projects. However, spring is here and its coaxing me to get the Neddy ready for the water. To that end I've rigged up the electrics for the vessel.
For those following this thread I had initially planned on putting the RC gear onto a deck in the bow. However, a review of the layout, plus other boats I've done, suggested I install a deck under the wheel house for the gear. Thats the direction I followed. Although its cramped for space with two ESC's in place I think it should work.
Since I'm running on 6V supply I'm not including a separate Rx battery, but instead using the main battery for power. I have installed a main power off/on switch plus an Rx off on switch. Lighting switching will come later. Main power electrical connections are done through Deans plugs. They're small, robust and can carry high current loads.
John
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superb job, very neat :-))
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Hi John,
what a great tug! I like the stand too! :-)) :-)) :-))
Best
Wilhelm
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Wilhelm and Dan, thanks very much for your kind comments.
John
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i will be attempting to build this model in 1:50 scale, so if you dont mind ill be coming to you for help O0
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i will be attempting to build this model in 1:50 scale, so if you dont mind ill be coming to you for help O0
Not a problem. Where I can help I certainly will. You can contact me off list if you need to.
John
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I'm getting down to plugging the last holes in the deck. In this case, the hole was the access to the starboard side rudder equipment. The port side I covered with a hawser drying rack. Th Starboard side was more difficult because there is a gypsie (?) in that area.
I took advantage of that fact to make a devise that would allow the turning of the gypsie to lock and unlock the cover from the deck. To that end, I cemented styrene sheet to a plywood under section of appropriate size to fill the hole. I made and mounted the gypsie support onto the deck section, then formed the shaft and other pieces underneath from brass. I think the pictures make it self explanatory. To lock the section in place retract the arms, insert the deck section into the hole and turn the gypsie. This extends the arms that catch under the deck and hold the panel in place. The major change from the prototype is the slightly raised portion of the deck section. I think I can live with that.
John
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.......continuing........
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I finally got the steering servo mounted. I've placed it under the deck, just aft of the deck house, mounted on an aluminum bracket I made for the purpose. It may appear a bit awkward, but I've had it in and out quite readily. The aft rudder access points work quite well too. I've removed the rudders for greasing preparatory to going in the water, and there were no problems with access.
This about concludes the overall construction of the re-engineered and scratch built Smit Nederland. I still have the weight to add and more deck details to complete, but the bulk of the vessel is complete
I'll post photos of her sea trials in about two weeks. I can also add photos in time of the deck details as I go along.
John
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Finally got the bollards made for the Neddy. I did them out of brass, with small pins on the underside. These pins fit into the deck while the top bracket is epoxied to the bulwarks. It makes for a very strong fastening that will allow mooring with security.
John
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The sea trials went off yesterday very successfully. The day started with the waters very calm, by afternoon a breeze had whipped up scale 3 meter swells. She handled the well including water over the aft deck and over the bow. All worked well, the vessel interior stayed cozy dry. Sea trials deemed successful. More detail is yet to be done, but at least she is sea worthy.
I started this build thread to show a solid deck on a Neddy could be constructed to seal the inside, work well and allow for servicing. That aim appears to have been successful.
John
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After sealing down the rear deck of my Ayton Cross I overcame the limited access to the hull problem by putting the electronics on a hinged board. It saves messing around in the confined space within the hull, and keeps the speed controller away from the heat of the motors.
(http://www.postimage.org/Pq1th46i.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=Pq1th46i)
(http://www.postimage.org/gx1z567i.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=gx1z567i)
(http://www.postimage.org/Pq1tiYQ9.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=Pq1tiYQ9)
(http://www.postimage.org/aV17gHLr.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=aV17gHLr)
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After sealing down the rear deck of my Ayton Cross I overcame the limited access to the hull problem by putting the electronics on a hinged board. It saves messing around in the confined space within the hull, and keeps the speed controller away from the heat of the motors.
The removable (hinged) board works really well. The board can be taken to the bench for servicing without worrying about rest of the vessel. I've done it on this build and others I've done. I make it standard practice now. Makes everything a lot easier.
John
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Its been awhile since I've put anything on here with regards to finishing off the Neddy. She performed well at our regular summer runs. The sealed aft deck was a treat. She take water over the bow and stay bone dry inside.
I'm taking this winter to finish off the rest of the bits, such as the wheel house and the aft towing winch.
I'll start with the winch. I haven't finished it yet, but I'll post some photos of it to date. I've used mostly brass and aluminum in its construction with a touch of styrene for taste. The drum rotates and the large gearbox cover comes off. I've had the intention of making it work, but still haven't come to grips with the technical side of that yet. In the meantime I'm setting it up so it can be motorized.
John
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My main hold up with the wheel house was trying to figure out what the interior should look like. I haven't been able to gather much in the way of pictures of the Neddy's wheelhouse interior. What I have is based on what little I have gleaned. I guess this is about as far as its going to go.
John
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Incredible, both the winch and the wheelhouse!! :o
Hama
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Incredible, both the winch and the wheelhouse!! :o
Hama
Thanks very much.
John
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Very tidy way of doing things, John. I especially like your idea of the servo operated switch. Holds the assembly together nicely. Even room for more switches. %)
Great build.
Ken
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Very tidy way of doing things, John. I especially like your idea of the servo operated switch. Holds the assembly together nicely. Even room for more switches. %)
Great build.
Ken
Ken:
Thanks very much for the compliment.
John
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very nice work
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very nice work
Thanks very much, glad you enjoyed it.
John
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I'm almost finished this towing winch for the Neddy. I found an article on the Smit Nederland in December 1987 and January 1988 Model Boats. The article had some good extra drawings and details of the winch that didn't appear in the Billings drawings of the same animal. I made certainn changes in what I had done to reflect those additional drawings.
In these phots you'll find the manual wheel on the side of the winch gear box. I started fabricating this wheel using 1/4" diamter brass rod turned down to about 1/8" diameter. I then drilled it down the center for an axle pin, then I cross drilled it to allow the insertion of the wheel spokes. The center hole was then redrilled to clear the spokes that passed through it. The spokes were soldered into place then bent out at the correct angle to allow the wheel proper to be soldered to the spokes. The lot was then parted off the brass stock.
John
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The next major part to make was the little device (correct name?) that travels back and forth in front of the drum and guides the cable onto the drum. I made it from a lump of solid brass drilling holes in it that would allow it to pass over the guide rods smoothly. The two projects were turned from brass rod and soldered onto the large brass lump. The whole effort slides happily back and forth on the guide rods. The larger center rod should be square threaed right and left hand to provide a timed movement across the drum face. At this time I skipped the threading step. I hope to locate a used fishing real I can salvage the required components from to make this work. Until then, this simplified method willl have to do.
John
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This is the final result of the winch build. the painting step is next. Too bad all that brass has to be covered up. Now on to finishing off the lights, antenna and mast.
John
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Pretty nice work!
Thanks for posting these
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Pretty nice work!
Thanks for posting these
Thanks very much.
Happy to.
John
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Hi John,
I hope to admire your work at the spring fun run.
Regards
Wilhelm
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Hi John,
I hope to admire your work at the spring fun run.
Regards
Wilhelm
Thanks Wilhelm. You're on the invite list, but we haven't set a date yet. Will let you know when its arranged.
John
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Gorgeous bit of metal work there John, really..really nice O0
Voyager
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Gorgeous bit of metal work there John, really..really nice O0
Voyager
Thanks very much. Well the bright work is covered in paint right now. I'm going to take a leaf out of your book and add some weathering to it. I's amazing how heavy it is. That should make the old girl roll a bit now.
John
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Absolutely stunning.
Started looking at the beginning of my lunch break and three hours later (Did I just say that) I finished it. Lots to learn from.
A question if you don't mind, at the start, you used some kind of putty on the wood that you described to be similar in texture to icing, are you referring to glazing putty (the one in small tubes at Canadian Tire) and if not which one did you use and where can I get it (Burlington, ON), I'd like to know as I'm rebuilding a tug (Fairplay V) and it needs a lot of smoothing in the original wood as the old owner just brush painted everything without any sort of prior treatment, given that this would be my first tug I need all the help with refinishing.
I'm also waiting for my second tug (Neddy) which is supposed to be in the mail, I intend to take a lot of the lessons learnt and apply them to that build.
Thanks for a truly enjoyable build log,
Hany
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Absolutely stunning.
Started looking at the beginning of my lunch break and three hours later (Did I just say that) I finished it. Lots to learn from.
A question if you don't mind, at the start, you used some kind of putty on the wood that you described to be similar in texture to icing, are you referring to glazing putty (the one in small tubes at Canadian Tire) and if not which one did you use and where can I get it (Burlington, ON), I'd like to know as I'm rebuilding a tug (Fairplay V) and it needs a lot of smoothing in the original wood as the old owner just brush painted everything without any sort of prior treatment, given that this would be my first tug I need all the help with refinishing.
I'm also waiting for my second tug (Neddy) which is supposed to be in the mail, I intend to take a lot of the lessons learnt and apply them to that build.
Thanks for a truly enjoyable build log,
Hany
Thankyou very much. I'm glad you liked the build. I still have a few more details to finish off. I'll be putting up some more pics as I go. The winch is painted now by the way.
The "icing" I referred to is available from NAPA and similar suppliers. Its very easy to work with. You mix up as much as you need. It finishes harder than the CTC "spot putty", but still easy to sand. I've used the spot putty for just that, small spots, and it works well there. However, I find the Icing works better overall for large surfaces.
If you're going to the Kitchener meet in July I'll be there with the Nederland.
Good luck in your build.
John
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That's great, thanks so much.
I do not know of a Kitchener meet, as I said I'm a newbie. If it is possible, please provide details and I'll do my best to be there.
Thanks again,
Hany
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That's great, thanks so much.
I do not know of a Kitchener meet, as I said I'm a newbie. If it is possible, please provide details and I'll do my best to be there.
Thanks again,
Hany
Here's the URL for the Kitchener meet: http://www.metromarine.org/2010ModelExpoFlyer.pdf
You may also like to come out to our Bobcaygeon meet in July. There are usually a few modelers from down Burlington way that come out.
http://www.kawartha.net/~bobcom/kmarinem.htm
John
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And I thought that I'm almost alone in here and the nearest Canadian modeler is in BC and anyone else is across the pond, this is great. Now I'm planning to attend for sure.
This is an excellent forum and thank you John,
Hany
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And I thought that I'm almost alone in here and the nearest Canadian modeler is in BC and anyone else is across the pond, this is great. Now I'm planning to attend for sure.
This is an excellent forum and thank you John,
Hany
There are actually quite a few Canadian modelers on this site:
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=13720.0
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=21616.msg217644#msg217644
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=13063.0
Just to name three others. There are many more.
John
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Thanks,
I guess I should pay more attention to the side band :embarrassed:
It's also great the amount of ideas shared all over the globe via this forum, it shows a great calibre of the members wherever they are.
Great site.
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Holy Lift'n man ..If i could build like that ..Id quit my day job!!
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LOL, thanks very much! Haven't found much call for model makers though.
Never fear, you're doing alright with yours.
John
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,,,didn't know you still had a day job {-), hows the ice below Fenelon Falls?
Robert
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,,,didn't know you still had a day job {-), hows the ice below Fenelon Falls?
Robert
Ah. the ice is all gone now, the leaves are out, my bike has been on the road since the middle of March and I'm working on a full size steam boat now. Couldn't get better. :}
John
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...every day I watch the pound drop lower and think, what am I doing here..well could be worse, I could be in, hmmm well never mind, glad to hear the snows all gone, been sailing over at the cottage yet?
Robert
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...every day I watch the pound drop lower and think, what am I doing here..well could be worse, I could be in, hmmm well never mind, glad to hear the snows all gone, been sailing over at the cottage yet?
Robert
Yeh, its real tempting to come back I guess. If you decide to take a trip over again let us know.
I haven't been back up to the cottage yet. John will start coming up for the summer in a couple of weeks. I expect we'll start up again then. His wife is retiring this year so that should be interesting. Phil is still plugging away at his Atlantis.....painting all those little winches is driving him nuts.
John
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...right well footy season is almost over and summer is almost here, which means rain {-), so should get some building done...barring no more training at work.
Robert
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I've been doing a bit more detail work on the Neddy. Fitting out lights, ladders and radar and such. Takes a bit of time to do the fiddly bits, but when you stand back and look, I think its worth it. To that end:...... the winch painted:
John
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.......and a bit more work on the wheel house:
John
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Looking good John.
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Looking good John.
Thanks. Its getting there slowly. One more week.
JHV
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It's not looking good, it's looking great!
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It's not looking good, it's looking great!
kno3
Thanks very much
John
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Most impressive John, some nice small finishing details really do make a difference don't they :o
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Most impressive John, some nice small finishing details really do make a difference don't they :o
Thanks very much.
Yes, the details do make the difference. One expends a lot of time to do them for the size of the part, but the results are worth it.
John
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I took a leaf from Voyager's book and added some weathering to the Neddy. I wanted it to look in well maintained, but used condition. The weathering was, therefore, work a day dirt and grime rather extensive rust and ready for the next paint.
John
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More close-ups please! :-)
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O0...oldiron........not being a tugboat fan....I had not visited your bulid....until the weathering & that took me back & back & back to the complete build
Congratulations on the construction of the machined brass + copper sheet ......build of components etc :-))..............Derek
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Derek, thank you very much. I'm glad you enjoyed the build.
Kno2: I'll take some more close ups this weekend.
John
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Just a line or two to say how much Iive enjoyed your build ,and comments. Its the first time Ive
come across it! I can some it up in one word "awesome". Tony
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Just a line or two to say how much Iive enjoyed your build ,and comments. Its the first time Ive
come across it! I can some it up in one word "awesome". Tony
Tony:
Thanks very much for the kind words. Glad you enjoyed the build
John
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Kno3 requested more closeups, to that end I offer the following. The problem with close ups is, they show all the faults, so don't look too closely.
John
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......again........
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..........again..........
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...........again.............
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...........again..............
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Thanks! In some of the pictures it's hard to tell if I'm looking at a model or the real ship :-)) :-))
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Hi John,
love the pictures, great detail and the weathering looks very real. :-)) :-)) :-))
Kind Regards
Willie
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Kno3 and Willie......thanks very much. Glad you enjoyed the pics.
John
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Thanks for a great build log John showing some good ideas, excellent craftsmanship and lovely pics, thanks for taking the time to produce and share a smashing model!
Kind regards, Tony :-))
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Thanks for a great build log John showing some good ideas, excellent craftsmanship and lovely pics, thanks for taking the time to produce and share a smashing model!
Kind regards, Tony :-))
Thanks very much Tony. I'm glad you enjoyed the build. I was happy the way the redesign of the original Billings concept worked out.
cheers
John
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I never looked at this before but it's beautiful. :-)) :-)) Congratulations.
Regards, Jan.
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I never looked at this before but it's beautiful. :-)) :-)) Congratulations.
Regards, Jan.
Thanks very much. Glad you enjoyed the build.
John
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Hi.
I'm new to this forum but i have now read this thread a couple of time this past week and it's a beauty you have build there :-))
I have build a couple of tug boats my self earlier, before i totally dedicated my life to scale airplanes from WWII era.
I my self have also build Smit Nederland, but only after the manual and plans being supplied whit the kit. My first tug was Billing Boats Banckert, a nice kit and and it really get me hooked up on tug boats. I have always run my models only whit throttle (speed control) and rudder steering. Newer put sound modules or have had operating winches, cranes etc on my ships.
But now i had to come to my point. This is one of the most beautiful buildings of the Nederland i ever have seen. You really inspired me to start build boats instead of airplanes again :o
So now i have started look around for something really nice to build, and probably it will be one of Model Slipways tug boats ok2
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Hi.
I'm new to this forum but i have now read this thread a couple of time this past week and it's a beauty you have build there :-))
I have build a couple of tug boats my self earlier, before i totally dedicated my life to scale airplanes from WWII era.
I my self have also build Smit Nederland, but only after the manual and plans being supplied whit the kit. My first tug was Billing Boats Banckert, a nice kit and and it really get me hooked up on tug boats. I have always run my models only whit throttle (speed control) and rudder steering. Newer put sound modules or have had operating winches, cranes etc on my ships.
But now i had to come to my point. This is one of the most beautiful buildings of the Nederland i ever have seen. You really inspired me to start build boats instead of airplanes again :o
So now i have started look around for something really nice to build, and probably it will be one of Model Slipways tug boats ok2
Ompa:
Thanks very much for the kind words. I'm glad I could help you in finding an new branch of the hobby.
John
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Crazy man this Oldiron, talking about faults showing on the closeups cause there are none! Honestly, I thought this was a mix of pictures of your model and the original until I saw the background! Fantastic!
Hama.
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Crazy man this Oldiron, talking about faults showing on the closeups cause there are none! Honestly, I thought this was a mix of pictures of your model and the original until I saw the background! Fantastic!
Hama.
Thanks very much. Glad you enjoyed the build.
John
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Very nice looking superstructure, How many Volts is that motor? because i might make that boat!!!!!!!!
Jack.H :-))
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Very nice looking superstructure, How many Volts is that motor? because i might make that boat!!!!!!!!
Jack.H :-))
Thanks very much.
I'm using 6 volt motors. I find they're quite adequate for my purposes.
John
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kk
Jack.H
{-)
}-(
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As an update to this build, I installed on of ACTION Electronics P94 ESC/Mixer combos in the vessel this past week. What a phenomenal difference it made in the performance. The steering and backup work is incredible. It can turn on its own axis reliably and comfortably. The motors have much more power than with my original ESC.
Great job on the electronics ACTION. I highly recommend it and my mates were duely impressed, too, on a test run tonight.
John
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A great thread/build - I really enjoyed reading through it.
Dave
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A great thread/build - I really enjoyed reading through it.
Dave
Thanks very much, glad you enjoyed it.
John
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Hello
I really like your idea to avoid the regular (for this kit) big acess on the main deck which is not asthetic. good job
xtian
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Hello
I really like your idea to avoid the regular (for this kit) big acess on the main deck which is not asthetic. good job
xtian
Thanks very much. That large access was one of the things that bothered me about the Billings kit. I always thought it could be avoided. Turns out it can be. Makes the vessel much better for towing if the modeller desires.
John
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I took a leaf from Voyager's book and added some weathering to the Neddy. I wanted it to look in well maintained, but used condition. The weathering was, therefore, work a day dirt and grime rather extensive rust and ready for the next paint.
John
In this post you have some pictures about weathering and details.
I applaud you for a particular detail, namely the lines that hold the mast up. Two of them are - like in the full-size vessel connected to the back corners of the wheelhouse. NOT awkwardly to the front of the roof, like Billings suggests in the kit directions.
This begs the question: Did you also make the mast go up and down like in a real Smit XYZ?
Hande
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In this post you have some pictures about weathering and details.
I applaud you for a particular detail, namely the lines that hold the mast up. Two of them are - like in the full-size vessel connected to the back corners of the wheelhouse. NOT awkwardly to the front of the roof, like Billings suggests in the kit directions.
This begs the question: Did you also make the mast go up and down like in a real Smit XYZ?
Hande
Hannu
no i didn't. I made the correct bracket etc., however, call me lazy, but I didn't feel like fussing with the rigging to allow it to go up and down.
John
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I don't call you anything but a very skilled model builder :D
Let's see, if in the final stages I can still gather my ambition and try to make a raisable mast ... ok2
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I don't call you anything but a very skilled model builder :D
Let's see, if in the final stages I can still gather my ambition and try to make a raisable mast ... ok2
Hannu
You're too kind.
I'm certain you can make the raisable mast. Like to see it when you're done.
John
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.a couple more pics
John
I hope you are there, John.
I’m obliged to applaud your solution to the manual winch hold/lock (I don’t know the correct term).
Does anyone have a rationale for the thingies that Billings is offering for the same purpose??
I so regret going with the kit and not doing my research properly! <*<
Hande
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Hande:
Thanks very much. . I'm happy you found aspects of the build useful. Thanks
John