Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Navy - Military - Battleships: => Topic started by: Edward Pinniger on May 11, 2008, 05:11:29 pm
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This is a 1/43 scale model (see below for the reason for the odd scale) of a WW2 US Navy 110-foot submarine chaser. It's my first fully scratchbuilt (other than the hull) R/C warship. I've quite a few R/C civil subjects either built or planned, but am mainly a warship fan and have always wanted to build a R/C model of a small warship - such as a minesweeper, sub chaser or gunboat - in a large scale like 1/48. I scratchbuild static ship models in 1/96 and 1/144 scale, and build kits in smaller scales like 1/200, but I much prefer larger scales like 1/48 for working models, as they allow fine details like railings, ladders and davits (and guns, radars etc. on warships) to be built "in-scale" without being too fragile.
This model is based on the 31" long "Victoria" steam launch hull available from http://www.myhobbystore.com (they also have a 1/24 HDML which I have my eye on for a future project...) I bought this hull a month or so ago, intending to use it for a model based on the steam launch "Eva" preserved at the Henley River & Rowing Museum. However, the Victoria hull turned out to be unsuitable for this as both the hull profile and the stern shape is completely different ("Eva" has a cut-away clipper-type stern) - which wasn't evident from the manufacturer's photos, so I decided to use it for something else with a similar hull shape. My original plan was to build a 1/35 US Coast Guard 95-foot Cape-class cutter - I built an approx. 1/72 static model of one of these from a Lindberg plastic kit last year - but I abandoned this idea due to lack of plans and close-up detail photos. The "Victoria" hull is also rather too shallow for a Cape-class.
My alternative choice was a WW2 US Navy 110-foot submarine chaser. This has a hull close in shape and very close in length/breadth ratio to the "Victoria" hull - the most significant difference is the stern, which is a "transom" type (angled rather than smoothly curved from the hull sides) and less rounded. However, I thought it would be close enough for a working model. (Other than this inaccuracy, though, this will be a fully detailed scale model - not semi-scale/standoff scale)
As the "Victoria" hull measures 31 inches long, a model of a 110' subject works out at 1/43 scale (actually 1/42.6). This is actually the same scale as O gauge (7mm) model railways, so I can use adapted 7mm model railway figures for crew.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/plan.jpg)
The 110' subchasers (SCs) were wooden hulled, diesel powered patrol craft which mostly operated off the US coast (some also served in the Pacific and in the Mediterranean) and were armed with "Mousetrap" anti-submarine projectors, depth charges in K-guns and roll-off racks, and a fairly heavy AA armament (1x40mm,3x20mm). I thought this subject would make an interesting + distinctive working model and should be fun to build - and, not being too large or complicated, it'd make an ideal first R/C warship scratchbuild.
Another advantage of this choice of prototype is that there's plenty of reference material available, including Fine Art Models (http://www.fineartmodels.com/pages/product.asp?content_area=3&sub_area=11&product_area=78)'s amazing 1/32 scale model. I found the basic but usable plan/line drawing (above) on a Russian website (a number of SCs were Lend-Leased to the Soviet Navy) - can't remember the URL but I'll e-mail the full-size image to anyone who's interested. The splinterfleet.org link below also has a cut-away profile drawing.
Here are some other subchaser links for anyone interested:
http://www.splinterfleet.org/
http://members.aol.com/lawman555/subchaser.htm
http://www.navsource.org/archives/12/01idx.htm
Anyway, on to the photos of the build!
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To provide the R/C gear, I bought a second-hand RTR speedboat very cheaply at a car boot sale. Though hardly top quality, and with the usual rudderless twin-prop steering, the gear in this boat is fairly good by RTR toy standards, with decent motors (connected to the prop shafts with universal joints), brass prop shaft tubes, and threaded props. It also has variable speed control, rather than the usual "forwards, backwards or stop". Currently, anything but the lowest speed setting is far too fast (subchasers weren't anything like as fast as PT boats - "chaser" might imply speed, but you don't need much speed to outrun a submerged U-boat!) but I hope that installing smaller props will at least partly fix this.
Installing the prop shafts and aligning + securing the motors in place was tricky at times, but I learnt a lot from it (this is only the second time I've attempted to install R/C gear in a model boat, and it now runs very smoothly and appears to be watertight!
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/prop1.jpg)
The prop shafts are supported with "skegs" made from 2mm styrene sheet triangles. I added similar supports under the prop shafts inside the hull. Note that these are the original "racing type" props from the RTR boat, I intend to replace these with smaller 3-bladed props to reduce the model's running speed.
The prop shafts are glued in place with epoxy resin glue, I added three layers of glue, on both sides of the hull, so the join should - hopefully - be strong + watertight.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/motor1.jpg)
The motors are attached to the prop shafts with screwed-in clamps, and are held in position with balsa-wood blocks and a length of square styrene rod at the aft end.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/interior2.jpg)
The battery pack provides most of the model's ballast, and is positioned as close to amidships as possible (under the conveniently positioned 20mm gun platform!). It's held in place with a bracket salvaged from the original RTR boat and duct-taped to the hull.
Also duct-taped (I prefer this to glue where precision + structural strength isn't needed, as it makes removal or repositioning of the components much easier) in place are the receiver box and a small amount of ballast (sheet lead) in the bow.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/interior1.jpg)
This is an overall view of the components in the hull.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/hullstrip.jpg)
A strip of styrene has been glued to the top edge of the hull. I couldn't manage to cut the hull out with a perfectly straight edge, and it's too large + flexible to sand easily, so this will give a flat, even surface for the deck to glue onto. It also reduces the chance of water getting in around the hull/deck join.
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(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/hull1.jpg)
The deck has now been glued to the hull and trimmed to shape, with access holes cut out for the motors and battery/radio unit. It's 2mm styrene sheet which adds a lot of structural rigidity to the hull. As the sheet I had wasn't quite long enough, the forward 5-6 inches of the deck were made as a seperate section.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/hullstrip2.jpg)
A strip of styrene is glued along the top of the hull, to cover up any roughness or gaps in the deck edge. A thinner strip is also glued to the edge of the deck (not really visible in the photo)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/hull2.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/strakes1.jpg)
The rubbing strakes are added to the hull using Evergreen half-round styrene rod (the lower strake is slightly wider)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/superstructure1.jpg)
The basic structural shapes of the wheelhouse/bridge, amidships and aft gun platforms. These are made from 1.5mm styrene sheet.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/deck1.jpg)
The removable wheelhouse and amidships platform fit tightly over these strips, which also reduce the chance of water getting into the access hole. The cover for the motor access hole is duct-taped in place from underneath, as this will only need removing occasionally (hopefully!) in the event of a problem with the motors or prop shafts.
The locations of deck fittings and other structural parts have also been marked out in pencil.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/overallA1.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/overallA2.jpg)
Superstructure in place on the deck - early days yet, but it's starting to look like a subchaser!
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Edward,
Looks like you've got a nice build in progress with a very interesting subject. I'll be newbie watching from the sidelines for what I can learn on scratch building.
Not sure if you are aware, but Microglass offers both the WW1 & 2 hulls in 1/32 scale along with a nice selection of other patrol craft. Based on the current dollar, their prices are a steal if the shipping doesn't kill you.
Chuck
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Based on the current dollar, their prices are a steal if the shipping doesn't kill you.
For a 4-5' fibreglass hull, from the USA to the UK, it probably will! (and that's before the customs charges >:( )
Anyway, I've done some more work on the superstructure + deck details and will hopefully post some more photos tomorrow.
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That's a shame the shipping & tax man bite so deep! :( Have been told Chinese factories (TJ, VM) south of here ship via Hong Kong Post EMS to the States & it costs a pittance ($30-70) depending on size. My son was shipping 1/16 metal tank tracks & accessories to the EU last year that were delivering at a third or half of the local market pricing due to the exchange.
Looking forward to seeing more of your build. O0
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(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/breakwater1.jpg)
The breakwater (and splash shield for the 40mm mount) is constructed from styrene sheet and detailed with Evergreen + Slaters styrene strip. I've also added some of the forward deck detail, including the base plates for the Mousetrap launchers. I'm not sure what the circular hatch is for; there's another one immediately forward of the aft gun platform.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/wheelhouse1.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/wheelhouse2.jpg)
Window frames have been added to the bridge. The dividers between the windows are made from 3mm strip cut very carefully to length, the frames themselves are thin square rod. The raised platform in front of the bridge will house the storage lockers for the Mousetrap rockets as well as a couple of 40mm ammo lockers. A "kick strip" has been added to the base of the wheelhouse as well as the aft gun platform.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/platforms1.jpg)
More work done on the gun platforms. The planks are Slaters 3mm plank-textured styrene sheet, this is pre-coloured but will be painted later. The planks were usually painted Deck Blue on the real ships, like the rest of the deck, but I may paint them with a weathered teak effect to give a more interesting visual appearance.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/overallA3.jpg)
Another overall view.
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Very nice, coming on well.
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(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/overallA4.jpg)
A small update - the companionway structures have been added (no hatches or other detail yet) and I've completed the raised coaming/waterway all around the deck (fairleads and scuppers still need to be added to this, you can see the cut-outs for the fairleads) I've also added the mast, this is removable and made from copper tube.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/bits.jpg)
I bought some Carley floats, a lifeboat, and depth charges at the Merstham show last Saturday. Some of these were second-quality castings, so the total cost was only about £6.
I'll be away from Saturday to next Friday, so this is the last update for a week at least. I should hopefully be able to test the boat out on the water soon.
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Unfortunately I've hit a serious snag with this build in that the "running gear" salvaged from a cheap RTR speedboat has proven to be extremely unsuitable for a scale warship. (You could say that's what you get for being a cheapskate, but most RTR twin-prop drives would have been a lot more suitable; all the same I should have tested it thoroughly first, if I'd realised its limitations I'd have sold the RTR boat and bought another).
The problem isn't the extremely high speed (the "HT" RTR warships also have this problem out of the box) as I fixed this with smaller replacement props, but the huge turning circle, lack of reverse ability (most model boats don't run well in reverse, but it's still invaluable from getting out of pool corners, patches of reeds, etc.), and lack of seperate prop control (which exacerbates the first problem by preventing you from turning in place, tank-style, by running the props in opposite directions).
These problems basically mean that the boat can only be run (safely) on a large swimming pool or purpose-built boating pond, neither of which I have access to, running on natural ponds would be very difficult due to the likelihood of getting stuck in weeds or stranded in deep water.
Short of installing a new set of motors and R/C gear (not very practical as the deck has already been glued in place) is there any way to increase the manoueverability/decrease the turning circle of a model with twin-prop steering? (See my post in the Technical sub-forum)
I may end up having to build this as a static display model (in which case I'll reshape the stern, add accurate prop shafts, keel, rudder etc.) I'm certainly not giving up on the build, though, as it's looking too nice already and I've put too many hours of work in to simply abandon it.
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The only straightforward answer I can think of is installing an Action Electronics P94 combined speed controller and mixer.
In the unlikely event that the white box of tricks from the original rtr includes an easily accessible 'rudder' channel, you could fit a servo actuated interrupter switch into the motor feeds - such that when you move the rudder left or right it cuts out the right or left motor. Unfortunately, it's a bit late now to notice you've got no reverse I'm afraid, apart from the P94 option above.
http://www.action-electronics.co.uk
-Rob
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Well, my first attempt at this build was a complete disaster, but it did at least teach me (the hard way) some important lessons - most importantly to always thoroughly test the motors, radio and running gear, and make sure everything's working correctly, before getting started on the modelling/detailing work. Also, that RTR "fast electric" hardware is not suitable for scale boats!
After building the Glencoe 1/72 WW1 Subchaser (the predecessor of the WW2 type) and buying a copy of the Squadron/Signal booklet "US 110' Subchasers in Action" I was inspired to get the incomplete SC out of the loft where it had been gathering dust, and make another attempt at completing it, this time with a bit more experience with R/C installation and hull construction!
Firstly, most importantly, I got rid of the toy RTR electronics (keeping the motors and running gear, which are usable) and installed a proper radio with ESC and rudder servo. I used the same 9.6v ni-cad battery as before (and made a new battery holder out of styrene card), running at scale speed with an ESC you get a lot more running time out of it, and I also have a couple of spares of this battery type.
Secondly, I sawed off about 2cm of the curved stern and made a new transom stern from styrene sheet (sealed + reinforced with epoxy) The hull is now reasonably accurate in shape for a WW2 SC above the waterline - the stern below the waterline is still completely wrong, but you don't see this when the boat's in the water!
I've got plenty of reference material - both drawings and photos - including the above mentioned "In Action" book and photos of the very impressive Fine Art Models 1/32 model here (http://www.fineartmodels.com/pages/product.asp?content_area=3&sub_area=11&product_area=78), so references for detailing shouldn't be a problem. I'm planning to scratchbuild as much as possible - including the guns - but the scale is close enough to 1/48 (actually 1/45, not 1/43 as I originally calculated - probably partly due to the sawn-off stern!) that I can use commercial fittings, and crew figures, in this scale.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/new radio.jpg)
Here's the interior of the refitted model. I had to cut a large hole in the aft deck to provide access to the motor + steering gear - unlike the radio + battery areas, there are no convenient superstructure parts over this area so I made a removable, overlapping deck plate held in place with small "rare earth" magnets.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/radio setup 2.jpg)
It uses a removable RX/ESC unit (I use this setup in most of my non-sail boats now), the 27mhz RX shown has now been replaced with a 2.4ghz one.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/motors.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/rudder servo.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/rudder + props.jpg)
The motors, couplings and prop shafts/stern tubes are the same as before, though the props are now 3-bladed scale types. The single rudder (the real SCs had two, but I didn't think it was worth bothering with a scale rudder setup given that the hull below the waterline isn't accurate in shape anyway) is a commercial brass one cut down in size a bit. The steep angle of the prop shafts is not optimal, but was how I originally installed them (in an abortive attempt to get more manouverability from the twin-prop steering system) and the shafts and motor mounts are so solidly installed that I didn't really want to remove them (as it turned out, the model runs and steers fine, anyway)
The last 2 photos above also show the new stern and keel.
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(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Water A 1.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Water A 2.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Water A 3.jpg)
I then gave the model a test run at Black Park - it performed + steered very well, as well as being stable and floating at the right waterline level. The two 540-type motors give plenty of "reserve power" but, with an ESC, can still run at a realistic scale speed. Now I've upgraded to 2.4ghz radio it no longer needs the aerial wire wrapped round the mast!
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/hull detail A 1.jpg)
Now I knew the model worked OK, my first priority was to get the hull painted and varnished. Before I did this, I added the surface details to the hull (I'd already made a start on this in 2008).
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/hull detail A 2.jpg)
This photo shows most of the hull details: two half-round rubbing strakes (the lower one only goes about 3/4 of the way to the bow), a strengthening plate(?) at waterline level, engine exhaust (square) and coolant water discharge (round), and the rectangular detail above the exhaust which I have no idea of the purpose of!
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/hull detail A 3.jpg)
This shot of the bow shows the bow fairlead or "bullnose" and the triangular strengthening plate at the bow.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/temp assembly A 1.jpg)
Overall view of the unpainted model, with the superstructure parts I made back in 2008 (and which luckily needed very little modification). The centre of the aft deck is removable (held in place with rare-earth magnets) to give access to the rudder and motors.
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The good thing is Edward,that you now know that she'll sail ok. An interesting build,which will be great to see finished,keep up the good work.
David.
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(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/paint scheme.jpg)
The majority of SCs were painted overall grey, but I decided to finish mine in a variant of Measure 32 which gives a very striking appearance with a three-tone grey "dazzle" pattern. References used for this were an original WW2 camouflage pattern and a drawing in "Subchasers in Action".
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/hull paint A 1.jpg)
First I sprayed the hull with Halfords grey primer, then brush painted the area of the black boot topping. Once this had dried, I masked it off with a strip of masking tape of the correct width, this can be removed once the lower + upper hull have been painted giving a neat black stripe of even width!.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/hull paint A 2.jpg)
I then painted the lower hull with Lifecolor "Raw Sienna" which is a close match for the "Copperoyd" anti-fouling paint used on the SCs.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/hull paint A 2.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/hull paint A 3.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/hull paint A 4.jpg)
The camouflage colours were then painted on the upper hull. Straight edges were masked, curves painted freehand. Paints used were Revell Grey, Tank Grey and Tar Black.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/hull paint B 1.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/hull paint B 2.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/hull paint B 3.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/hull paint B 4.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/hull paint B 5.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/hull paint B 6.jpg)
Here's the finished, painted hull, with a coat of satin varnish (a matt finish would be more to scale, but is less water resistant)
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One of the things I do with 1/72nd scale figures is to gloss varnish to protect the figure and bring up the paints, and then they get matted down, which makes them more realistic looking. Can you not do something similar with the varnishes on this?
Nice model by the way.
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Very nice work, Sir! I wonder where you all get these ingenious servo linkages and shaft connectors? I always have to make them myself, with rather variable results!
Here is the single digital picture I had of KNM «Hitra», which was a sub chaser of the same class you are modelling (originally USN SC-718), until she was commissioned in the Norwegian Navy as «Hitra» in 1943 (and KNM «Hitra» from 1946). She used for the rest of the war in traffic to Norway from Shetland, where she carried agents, supplies and refugees. The sub chasers took over from the traditional fishing vessels that had been used in this traffic earlier.
(http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt73/sinwin/th_IMG_0002.jpg) (http://s599.photobucket.com/albums/tt73/sinwin/?action=view¤t=IMG_0002.jpg)
She was modified when in Norwegian service, since she was no longer used as a sub hunter. I think they installed heavier anti-aircraft guns, for instance. My picture here was taken in 2005.
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an excellent one sure...friends..why such craft known as a subchaser..?..a submarine chaser..? advice..
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Some replies to questions:
- The servo connectors etc. are all bought from R/C model shops, Howes (http://www.howesmodels.co.uk/) in Oxford are the one I normally use. Not sure if there are any supplies of these parts in Norway though!
I've heard of KNM Hitra (and its sisters) - it's quite a remarkable survivor considering it was wrecked and out in the open for many years before being recovered and restored. I was trying to find some good photos of Hitra as reference for my build as it doesn't appear to be modified much from its original wartime configuration. However, I couldn't find many photos online.
- I find a matt finish (as well as being less durable) tends to attract mud, water surface gunk, etc. and is much harder to clean than a satin or gloss one. It's only the hull that has a satin finish, the deck and superstructure will stay matt once painted.
- These boats were known as submarine chasers (sub chasers) as they were designed for the role of anti-submarine patrols ("sub hunter" would probably have been a more appropriate title)
On to the build photos:
Now all the basics are done, it's on to detailing and finishing the model. I decided that this time, rather than haphazardly adding bits here and there, I'd start at the bow end and work backwards, building separate sub-assemblies like guns and boats/rafts in between working on the main model.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/A 1.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/A 2.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/A 3.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/A 4.jpg)
Starting at the bow end, this is the "forecastle" area forward of the breakwater. Details added here include mooring cleats (commercial plastic fittings), anchor windlass (modified commercial resin casting) and chain stopper, ventilators, anchor davit and supporting brackets. The anchor itself is another plastic fitting which happened to be the right size and style. SCs also carried a Danforth-type anchor on the port side, which will be scratchbuilt.
The large rectangular plates are the bases for the "Mousetrap" launchers, which I'll add at a later stage of the build.
The crew figure is plastic and from an old Monogram sailing yacht kit I built earlier this year!
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Lots of O GAUGE 1/43 scale model railway fittings crew etc to be found for your Subchaser
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Very tidy build, one of our club members purchased the 36" HDML hull from My Hobby Store and when I looked at it my first thoughts were to build one of these, not that I dont have enough projects on at present. Reading the thread I thought " that stern has to come off" then, hey presto, off it came... Keep up the good work on an interesting subject...
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I haven't got round to posting here (or on any other modelling forums) for ages, but have been making steady progress on building the SC.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Overall 5-11 1.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Overall 5-11 2.jpg)
Here are two overall views of the model as of late May 2011 - since then a lot more detail has been added (bridge fittings, depth charges and so on) and the upper works are fully painted and weathered. The following posts will show the progress of the build this year. Currently I'm working on the ship's boat and 2 liferafts, also to be done are the 40mm and 20mm guns (the basic shape of the 40mm is already in place), Mousetrap projectiles, rigging + flags, crew figures and a few other small details.
The boat also runs rather better now (it had a sail at Black Park the other week) as I've replaced the 7.2v ni-cad pack with a small "Powersonic" 6v SLA battery from Howes, which (for about the same size and weight) gives a more scale running speed (i.e slower!) and much better endurance.
In the last update I added the details on the forward deck - continuing aft towards the wheelhouse, the next stage is the area around the 40mm gun mount (the gun itself will be a later project). The basic shapes of the breakwater and splash shields are already in place, but they need a lot of fine detail adding, and there are also 8 storage lockers of various shapes and sizes that need to be made. Here they are:
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Lockers A 1.jpg)
There are actually 11 here as I made the three 20mm ammunition lockers (which go on the aft gun platforms) at the same time. These are the long ones with 4 catches on each side. The other types, in order of size, are the Mousetrap rocket, 40mm ammunition storage and 40mm ready use lockers.
All the lockers were built up from styrene sheet, with catches, hinges etc. made from styrene rod and strip.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Lockers A 1.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Lockers A 2.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Lockers A 4.jpg)
3 views of the 40mm gun area with the lockers in place. The rocket storage lockers are supported on stanchions at an upwards angle, presumably to prevent the rockets from sliding out when opened in heavy seas! Also visible in these photos are the other small details I added, including the guard rail for the 40mm gun, on top of the breakwater (restricting the barrel's downward movement so it can't be accidentally fired into the deck!), and hatches, including one in the deck for ammunition to be passed up from below.
Next is the wheelhouse detailing - some of this (cabling, etc.) is visible in the above photos.
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Looking very fine !
Keep up the good work and keep the pics coming :-))
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(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Wheelhouse A 1.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Wheelhouse A 2.jpg)
This is the basic wheelhouse structure, before detailing (only the side rails and one cable have been added). Like the other main superstructure parts, it's removable to access the hull interior (the RX and ESC are under the wheelhouse).
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Wheelhouse B 1.jpg)
Front view of the completed wheelhouse - visible here are the "windscreen wipers" and one of the navigation lights, with associated electrical cabling. The "flying bridge" on the wheelhouse roof will be detailed at a later stage.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Wheelhouse B 2.jpg)
Port side view. The vertical cylinder is the base of the radio aerial (not functional!), the small clips are for a fire axe which will be added later. The fire hose reel is a slightly modified commercial casting.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Wheelhouse B 3.jpg)
Aft view, showing the wheelhouse door/hatch, the base of the mast, and the flag locker. The ventilator grating above the latter is made out of plastic railing from a Heller plastic kit! The two small cleats are for the flag halyards.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Mast A 1.jpg)
The base of the mast can be seen in the photos above, here's a view of the complete article before I glued it in place. For structural strength (since this is probably the part most vulnerable to accidental damage) it's made entirely from metal, and held together with brass pins as well as CA glue.
The completed mast will have a radar housing at the top, and numerous other small details, such as ladder rungs.
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(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Amidships platform A 1.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Amidships platform A 2.jpg)
Next to be detailed are the two gun platforms aft of the wheelhouse. This is the amidships one which carries two 20mm guns (they go on the square platforms). As well as the two 20mm ammo lockers I made earlier, additions include the hatch and other fine details on the companionway, the chart locker/table (at least I think that's what it is!), gooseneck vent and galley stove chimney.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Amidships platform A 3.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Amidships platform A 4.jpg)
Here's the platform in place on deck. Visible here are the small supporting stanchions under the sides.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Aft platform A 1.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Aft platform A 2.jpg)
The aft "bandstand" platform has a single 20mm. The circular objects at the edge are the mounts for the life raft storage racks, to be added later.
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Hi,
Following your build with interest. The sub chaser being on my to do list.
The plans I have (John Lambert), show the structure on the fore side of the companionway as being a log desk - presumably for use in port.
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(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Amidships deck A 1.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Amidships deck A 2.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Aft deck A 1.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Aft deck A 2.jpg)
Details added to the aft deck, including lockers, vents and davits (for loading depth charges). Also seen here are the life-raft stowage
racks and the cradle for the ship's boat. Still to be added are the depth charge racks and K-gun launchers.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Fire main.jpg)
The cable reel is made from a metal sewing machine bobbin! (just the right size, even if it doesn't have the right number of holes). The cable will be added once it's painted. Also visible in this photo is the fire hose connector.
Hi,
Following your build with interest. The sub chaser being on my to do list.
The plans I have (John Lambert), show the structure on the fore side of the companionway as being a log desk - presumably for use in port.
Thanks for the comments, and for identifying the mystery desk/table! Will your model be a scratchbuild (don't think there are any commercial SC hulls available, at least outside the USA?) and what scale?
I don't have a full-size plan sheet for building my model, just the scale drawings in Squadron "WW2 Subchasers in Action" along with many photographs, both in the latter book and downloaded from the Internet, and photos of the Fine Art Models 1/32 model (I think I posted a link to this earlier in the thread)
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Grand job !
It is my intention to scratch build to a scale of 1/35. I'm currently working on a Harbour Defence launch in 1/35, will post pics when I'm a bit further on.
Also looking to build Fairmile B & D etc to a common scale.
I'm sure you've come across this site but just in case.... the pics of SC1474 are excellent for reference
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(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Mousetrap A 1.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Mousetrap A 2.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Mousetrap A 3.jpg)
Next I added the "Mousetrap" anti-submarine projector. This fires the same projectile as the more famous "Hedgehog" but is a much more lightweight and basic design, with 4 projectiles per launcher. Unfortunately I forgot to take any photos of the launchers under construction, but their structure is fairly clear in the above photos. They're scratchbuilt from styrene, with Evergreen channel used for the rails. The projectiles themselves will be scratchbuilt and added later. I'm thinking of making these out of adapted 1/48 aircraft rockets (the sort carried by the Typhoon) which I have plenty of in my spares box - with the middle cut out, the warhead shortened and flattened, and a cylinder around the fins, they should hopefully make passable Hedgehog projectiles.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Boat + rafts 1.jpg)
The ship's boat and two "Carley float" rafts - still unfinished.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/K-guns A 1.jpg)
The "K-gun" depth charge launchers are made out of assorted spares-box oddments (the domed bases are the tips of 1/72 aircraft bombs) and styrene stock. The curved "arbors" which hold the charges were made using 0.5mm styrene sheet bent to a curved shape using an old aluminium modelling knife handle. The smaller cylinders at 45' held the launching charges, which I believe were blank 3-inch shells (they certainly were on the "Y-gun" launchers used on the SCs in WW1)
The depth charges are commercial resin castings (6 more of which will go in the stowage racks) - I bought these from Mac's Mouldings at a show back in 2008 when I first started this build!
Grand job !
It is my intention to scratch build to a scale of 1/35. I'm currently working on a Harbour Defence launch in 1/35, will post pics when I'm a bit further on.
Also looking to build Fairmile B & D etc to a common scale.
I'm sure you've come across this site but just in case.... the pics of SC1474 are excellent for reference
My model is the odd scale of 1/43 due to using an adapted commercial hull (originally intended for a steam launch) - if I'd built it from scratch I'd have picked either 1/35 or 1/48!
I'd also like to build a HDML and possibly a Fairmile one day, "Coastal Forces" type craft are my main area of interest along with earlier warships from the predreadnought/ironclad eras. I have a hull for a Vosper MTB in 1/35 along with the Astec Vosper 73' ASRL semi-kit which will be future projects, and I've also considered buying the Fleetscale HMS Grey Goose hull - ever since I built Grey Goose in 1/96 scale a couple of years ago, I've wanted to build a larger one for R/C! But my next project after the SC is definitely going to be Caldercraft's HMS Sir Kay, I bought the latter nearly two years ago so don't have much excuse for putting off building it much longer!
What's the URL for the site with the SC1474 photos you mentioned?
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Sorry completely forgot the link :embarrassed:
http://www.navsource.org/archives/12/01idx.htm
(http://s1.postimage.org/14dqjsk90/1215147403.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/14dqjsk90/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/14e3s3c78/1215147404.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/14e3s3c78/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/14eae8q6c/1215147405e.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/14eae8q6c/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/14ekbgt50/1215147406ee.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/14ekbgt50/)
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(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Bridge A 1.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Bridge A 2.jpg)
Here I've made a start on the "flying bridge" on top of the wheelhouse. Seen here are the two storage lockers (not sure what they're for; one's probably for signal flares/pyrotechnics) and the small hexagonal platform for the searchlight. I also added an etched brass railing stanchion at each corner, to allow me to estimate the height of the bridge fittings; the other stanchions will go on once the model is painted.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Etched stanchions.jpg)
These are the etched brass stanchions (which I got from John R Haynes Models). I'll be using these for the rails around the main deck and the gun platforms, as well as for the bridge railings.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Bridge details.jpg)
The smaller bridge fittings - from right to left, the binnacle, gyro compass, searchlight and captain's chair - the latter is made out of the pilot's seat from a 1/48 WW1 aircraft kit (after replacing the original with an etched brass one)!
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Bridge B 1.jpg)
Bridge fittings in place.
Sorry completely forgot the link :embarrassed:
http://www.navsource.org/archives/12/01idx.htm
Thanks for the link! Those are certainly good reference photos with a lot of interesting details. Photo 1 is particularly interesting as it shows some crew at work on the mast radar dish, with its cover removed (someone on the bridge appears to be holding the cover) - I don't think I've ever seen this before.
The boats have a very cluttered look in a lot of the photos, with rope coils and fenders all over the place - not sure if I'll try and replicate this on my model as it may end up looking too messy to see the deck details clearly!
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In addition to the two K-guns, subchasers also carried depth charges in roll-off racks at the stern and/or the sides of the quarter deck. These racks are girder-like structures mostly made from "angle iron" and next to the 40mm gun they're by far most complex sub-assemblies on the model! Each one measures about 18x36mm and has 27 parts, excluding the depth charges themselves. I made them using Evergreen styrene angle and channel section; the DCs are the same resin castings used on the K-guns.
Some SCs had depth charge racks at the stern - but the one I'm modelling has the ship's boat stowed here instead.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/DC racks A 1.jpg)
The basic side frames.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/DC racks A 2.jpg)
Assembled into a 3D structure.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/DC racks A 3.jpg)
Completed racks, minus the depth charges.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/DC racks A 4.jpg)
Resin depth charges temporarily fitted.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/DC racks A 5.jpg)
Temporarily in place on deck. The K-guns are also visible in this photo.
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(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Mast B 1.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Mast B 2.jpg)
The model is now nearly ready to be painted - the last major area that needs finishing is the mast. First I added the ladder steps - these are L-shaped brackets fitted either side at staggered intervals.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Mast B 3.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Mast B 4.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Mast B 5.jpg)
All the ladder brackets are now in place, and I've added the "basket" structure which goes around the radar dome. This is made from a hoop of aluminium tube assembled into a circle using a small brass peg, I then drilled out 4 holes in a cross pattern on this and on the top of the mast, to take the brackets (brass wire), producing a conical basket structure with a fair amount of structural strength (important as this area is very vulnerable to accidental damage)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Mast B 6.jpg)
The radar dome is made out of a cast resin steam locomotive dome found in the spares box! It sits on a base made from styrene sheet. I also added the mast lights and the horn/siren, which are made from plastic sprue offcuts. The small eyebolts at the end of the yard are for the signal halyards.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Mast B 7.jpg)
A view of the model with the completed mast in place, and ready for painting!
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(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Paint A 1.jpg)
I've finally got to the stage of painting the rest of the model - first I masked off the already-painted hull with newspaper and masking tape, then airbrushed everything (including the removable superstructure) with Revell acrylic #57 Grey.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Paint A 2.jpg)
The result makes the model a bit more ship-shape and less like a pile of unpainted plastic and brass!
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Paint B 1.jpg)
I brush-painted the decks with Revell #69 Granite Grey, which is a pretty good match for USN "Deck Blue". All of the decks on SCs were painted or stained with this colour - there was no bare deck planking, though I will be weathering the planked areas to suggest the stain wearing away and exposing the wood colour.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Paint B 2.jpg)
The camouflage pattern is painted on the superstructure (brush painted, using masking tape to get a straight line). The few drawings I can find of camouflage SCs suggest that only the wheelhouse sides were camouflaged - the gun platforms, lockers etc. were overall grey. This certainly makes things easier when painting the model!
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Paint C 1.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Paint C 2.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Paint C 3.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Paint C 4.jpg)
Four views of the fully painted model (though small details such as lights and bridge fittings are yet to be painted, and the unfinished 40mm isn't even undercoated yet!). The amidships view shows an area of the deck I used to experiment with weathering (as mentioned above). I also used oil washes in various colours to highlight the plank seams and the details on fittings such as the ammo locker, as well as adding a few small patches of rust staining. The next update will show the fully weathered model.
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Very impressive Edward.
Geoff
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First rate job
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Coming together really well now. . . soon be on the water :-))
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Thanks for the positive comments! The model has already been on the water quite a few times - I sailed it at Black Park this morning and took some photos which will hopefully go in the next update post. My first priority nowadays when starting a build (or, as in this case, resuming an old abandoned project) is to get it "seaworthy" - install running gear and radio, check ballast and watertightness, and sort out access hatch locations - and test it out in the water to make sure everything is working OK, before getting down to the fine detail work.
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I really need to get on with posting updates - the build thread is lagging behind the model by several stages! Currently I'm working on the Carley floats/rafts, lifebelts, and Mousetrap projectiles, all nearly complete. I've also made and fitted the other anchor (Danforth type) and the anchor chain. Still to do are the ship's boat, guns, crew figures, flags and rigging.
Here are some photos of the model after weathering. They aren't particularly good as regards lighting + focus, as they were taken in the evening under artificial light.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Paint D 1.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Paint D 2.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Paint D 3.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Paint D 4.jpg)
The weathering uses both oil washes and drybrushed acrylic paint. I first drybrushed the decks with dark and light grey in a stippled pattern, to create a worn, discoloured effect, and drybrushed a pale wood colour along the edges of the planked deck area. I then used black and dark brown oil washes to highlight details, recesses and plank seams, and small patches of "burnt umber" oil wash to represent rust on metal fittings. I haven't weathered the hull sides yet - this will probably wait until the rest of the model is complete.
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Finally, here are the on-water photos from yesterday - you'll probably spot the railings and Carley floats, these will be covered in more detail in the next couple of updates!
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Water B 1.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Water B 2.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Water B 3.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Water B 4.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Water B 6.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Water B 5.jpg)
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Looks great Edward, really nice. :-))
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Really nice Edward and not that far off finishing now.
Geoff
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looking really impressive, are you going to put the canvas screen around the flying bridge?
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Looking good on the water.
As you say a few finishing touches plus crew and she is going to look like the real thing on the water.
You must be well pleased
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The next stage is to add the railings around the deck and superstructure. I used etched brass stanchions from John R Haynes (https://www.johnrhaynes.com/shop/index.php?_a=viewCat&catId=50) - these are much, much cheaper than turned brass ones, and though they arguably don't look as good, the difference isn't really noticeable overall once the railings are painted.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Railings 1.jpg)
These are the railing stanchions (previously undercoated in grey) in place on the bridge. You can also see the ship's bell on the mast, which is a commercial turned brass fitting (it doesn't ring!) on a bracket made from a brass pin.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Railings 2.jpg)
Stanchions on the main deck and gun platforms.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Railings 3.jpg)
The railings on the bridge and gun platform have tubular steel rails, for which I used thin brass wire. The main deck rails were rigged with steel cable - to make this, I twisted together two lengths of fine (35 SWG) tinned-copper fuse wire, using a Dremel-type mini drill. Put one end of the wires in a vice, pull taut and put the other ends in the Dremel, and run it for a couple of seconds (or less if you're using a high RPM) and you'll end up with a quite convincing-looking scale steel cable.
Here are some views of the completed railings in place:
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Railings B 1.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Railings B 2.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Railings B 3.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Railings B 4.jpg)
And an overall view of the model with railings fitted:
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Railings B 5.jpg)
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Just a tiny update today whilst I finish work on the ship's boat and rafts:
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Anchor 1.jpg)
SCs carried a Danforth-type anchor as well as a standard "fisherman's" anchor. I scratchbuilt the Danforth anchor from styrene bits plus a Grandt Line plastic eyebolt.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Anchor 2.jpg)
The anchor installed on deck, with a metal anchor chain added.
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Next I made the eight projectiles for the "Mousetrap" projectors at the bow. These are the same 65lb/30kg projectiles used on the larger "Hedgehog" projector, so reference material is easy to find, but the "Subchasers in Action" book has scale drawings and numerous close-up photos anyway.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Mousetrap B 1.jpg)
The raw materials for the projectiles - styrene tube and strip plus 8 spare rockets from a 1/48 Airfix Mosquito! It would be possible to make them completely from scratch using styrene rod, but the Mosquito rockets are a very useful shortcut, being exactly the right shape and size.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Mousetrap B 2.jpg)
Projectiles under construction (a completed one is at the bottom of the photo).
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Mousetrap B 3.jpg)
Completed projectiles.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Mousetrap B 4.jpg)
Painted dark grey (Revell Tank Grey) and highlighted with a slightly lighter shade. Some contemporary photos show the projectiles in unpainted "natural metal" (possibly training rounds), some olive drab, and some grey.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Mousetrap B 5.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Mousetrap B 6.jpg)
In place on the launching rails, and ready to fire at any U-boats sighted! I don't know whether the Mousetrap launcher ever scored any confirmed submarine kills during WW2 - with less than half as many projectiles as Hedgehog, the chance of scoring a hit must have been fairly low, and light, fast-moving vessels like the SC can't have made very stable aiming platforms.
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(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Lifebelts 1.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Lifebelts 2.jpg)
The 4 lifebelts are commercial plastic fittings. I didn't attempt to replace their plastic ropes with hand-rigged thread, as I've done with models in larger scales! Photos of the Fine Art Models 1/32 subchaser model, which is one of my main references for detailing my model, show the lifebelts as bright orange-red - but lifebelts were usually painted grey in wartime. In fact they often ended up being painted the same colour as the ship carrying them, but I painted these in a slightly different shade of grey to provide visual contrast.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Rafts 1.jpg)
The two "Carley float" liferafts are commercial resin castings. Unlike the lifebelts, I thought it would be worth replacing their moulded ropes and eyebolts with actual thread rigged through metal eyebolts. I also added aluminium mesh to represent the gratings at the bottom of the rafts.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Boats + rafts 2.jpg)
The boat (this will be shown in more detail in the next update) and rafts are undercoated grey (Revell Gunship Grey) - this colour, with a bit of weathering, will remain the base colour for the rafts, whilst the boat will be painted light grey inside and light blue-grey outside.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Rafts 2.jpg)
The completed rafts, painted and weathered, with edge ropes and oars added. The oars are commercial wooden fittings, shortened and reshaped, and treated with wood stain.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Rafts 3.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Rafts 4.jpg)
The rafts lashed in place on their supporting frames. Rather than relying entirely on the ropes to hold them in place, I also superglued the rafts to the frames! The aft pair of lifebelts can also be seen, on the gun platform rails.
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(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Boat 1.jpg)
The ship's boat, usually stowed at the stern, was a 16-foot wherry. I used a commercial vacform plastic hull which is a bit too big to be accurate, but is the closest match I could find in size and shape, and is clinker-built. After cleaning up the moulding I added internal structural detail from styrene strip, and metal eyebolts for the edge ropes. The seats/thwarts will be made later on from stained plywood.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Boat 2.jpg)
The painted boat with its rope "fender" in place.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Boat 3.jpg)
The thwarts are cut out from thin plywood.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Boat 4.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Boat 5.jpg)
The completed boat with thwarts installed and varnished. The oars are the same commercial wooden fittings I used in the rafts.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/Boat 6.jpg)
In place on the quarterdeck. You can see I had to remove a section of deck railing here, as the boat is slightly larger than it should be and won't fit otherwise!
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well done on an excellent buid so far. It looks like a very enjoyable project.
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The final stage of the build is the guns - one 40mm Bofors and three 20mm Oerlikons, all single mounts. Some SCs had different armament configurations (notably, earlier vessels had a 3in/50 gun instead of the 40mm) but this is the most common. I opted to scratchbuild all the guns (a lot cheaper than buying commercial castings, and I enjoy the challenge! - plus, detailed reference material is very easy to find for these ubiquitous naval weapons), though I'll be using a few commercial parts, such as etched gunsights.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/40mm A 1.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/40mm A 2.jpg)
The basic shape of the 40mm Bofors (seen in place on deck in numerous photos posted earlier). The barrel is aluminium tube with a conical flash-hider from the spares box (I think it was originally from a 1/35 tank gun). The gun doesn't elevate, but it can rotate - it's held in place on deck by a "rare earth" mini-magnet inset into the deck and the circular base of the mount.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/20mm 1.jpg)
The basic shapes of the 20mm Oerlikon guns and their shields. The guns are made from aluminium tube (with the muzzle ends flared out) and various gauges of styrene tube, with copper wire wound around them to make the recoil springs.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/20mm 3.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/20mm 2.jpg)
More detail added to the guns, and the shields have the mounting brackets and supporting framework added.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/20mm 4.jpg)
Assembled guns and shields. Still plenty of detail left to add, including the ammo drums, gun sights and shoulder rests, and the rivets
on the shields.
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Excellent set of gun build photos. I built a full set of guns for HMS Matabele about ten years ago, including the 4.7" main guns, single pom poms, 4 barrel pom poms and quad 0.50" guns, great fun. Will be watching with interest as I will be building AA guns for SS Ohio soon, and this looks like my gun building masterclass to watch. Great job.
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Thanks for the positive comments - however I have to add that these guns aren't 100% accurate and fully detailed, I've made some compromises to fit my skill level, budget and available materials. For example, the 40mm barrel has no taper (the 20mms don't either, but I don't think the real ones do, or at least not enough to be easily visible in 1/48 scale), there are no oval holes in the 20mm barrel housing forward of the recoil springs, and the housing around the 20mm recoil springs is a bit too big - and that's just the errors I've spotted myself :embarrassed: They're just assembled from oddments of metal + styrene stock, plus a few spare plastic kit bits and etched fittings - were I attempting to get the guns exactly right in every detail, I'd have used lathe turning and machining (none of which I really know much about!) and possibly custom photo-etching (ditto, it's also expensive!)
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We are all allowed a bit of self criticism, however, they still look great, with a coat of paint and a bit of weathering they will complement the rest of the model. My pom pom guns used Oboe masonry nails for barrels, this gave the ends of the barrels their distinctive look. Mind you, they started to rust after two years.....
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If they look the part then they are OK. O0 O0
As you say bigger scale means more detail.
Looking good :-)) :-)) :-))
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(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/20mm 5.jpg)
The distinctive cylindrical ammo magazines for the 20mm Oerlikons were made from three discs of 1.5mm styrene sheet, cut out with a hole punch, and detailed with styrene sheet + rod.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/20mm A 1.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/20mm A 2.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/20mm A 3.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/20mm A 4.jpg)
The final details to be added to the 20mms were the shoulder rests, rivets on the shields, and sights - the latter use etched parts from John R. Haynes. Here are four views of the completed gun mounts. Overall I'm pleased with how they turned out, and enjoyed building them (most of the time) but I can certainly see why many modellers opt for buying commercial gun kits/castings instead! I'd estimate there are close to 100 parts in each gun, including the tripod mounts and the shields.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/20mm A 5.jpg)
Temporarily placed on deck. The guns are attached to aluminium wire pegs which fit through the tripod mounts and into holes drilled into the deck; when finished they'll be secured with Blu-tack or similar under the deck, to prevent them falling out but allow them to be removed or repositioned if necessary.
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Well Edward I think you have done a great job with the 20mm. :-)) :-)) :-))
geoff
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Making one is good !
Making three that look the same is excellent :-))
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Making one is good !
Making three that look the same is excellent :-))
Thanks! I used an "assembly line" method to build the guns (measured + cut the parts for all 3 at once) so it didn't take that much longer than building a single one.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/40mm B 1.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/40mm B 2.jpg)
The 40mm Bofors gun mount is significantly more complex than the Oerlikons, but at least there's only one required! There are a couple of photos of the basic barrel/mount assembly (which I made a few months ago) earlier on in the thread. These 2 photos show the first lot of details added, including the supporting frames for the seats and pedals, the shell ejector chute (curved strip at the back of the gun) and the recoil cylinders.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/40mm C 1.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/40mm C 2.jpg)
More details added including the pedals, elevation controls and ammo hopper.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/40mm D 1.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/40mm D 2.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/40mm D 3.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/40mm D 4.jpg)
Last of all, I added the etched sights and railing stanchions (rigged with copper wire)
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Just one comment on the Bofors gun.
The curved part from the rear of the gun to the baseplate is a spent cartridge chute. It is "U" shaped in cross section and does not attach to the gun.
See this photo -
http://www.flickr.com/photos/13439092@N04/3309110827
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Just one comment on the Bofors gun.
The curved part from the rear of the gun to the baseplate is a spent cartridge chute. It is "U" shaped in cross section and does not attach to the gun.
See this photo -
http://www.flickr.com/photos/13439092@N04/3309110827
Interesting - thanks for the photo link. I knew the curved part was a cartridge chute, but didn't realise that this part of it wasn't attached to the gun breech. I don't really want to attempt modifying the gun now it's painted and weathered, but since the barrel doesn't elevate, it shouldn't be too noticeable (at the elevation shown on the plans I used, the gun breech is at the same level as the chute, hence me thinking they were connected).
I didn't make the chute U-shaped in section, as I didn't have any brass stock of the right size/section and didn't trust styrene to bend into that shape without breaking! It's not that noticeable now that the gun is painted.
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(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/20mm C 1.jpg)
Next, I airbrushed all 4 guns overall grey (the gunmetal parts will be brush-painted later). A coat of paint improves their appearance a lot, making them look rather less like the cobbled-together assemblies of styrene bits they are!
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/20mm C 2.jpg)
The gun barrels are undercoated black.
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/20mm C 3.jpg)
To give the guns a metallic look, I drybrushed them with Vallejo and Games Workshop paints. The barrels were given an unpainted look using brighter metallic shades.
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(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/20mm D 1.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/20mm D 2.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/20mm D 3.jpg)
Some views of the completed 20mm gun mounts installed on deck:
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/40mm E 1.jpg)
(http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pinniger/models/ship/subchaser/40mm E 2.jpg)
- and of the 40mm gun. I used a light oil wash (Ivory Black oil paint dissolved in turps) to weather the grey-painted areas of the gun mounts.
With the gun mounts finished, the model is now finally complete other than rigging and the glazing for the wheelhouse windows. Once these are done I'll post some photos of the finished model - and hopefully some on-water photos too within a couple of weeks. I'm also working on painting a few crew figures to put on deck (converted from 1/48 aircraft ground crew).
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Nice, looking forward to the on the water shots :-))
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I like the weathering effects :-))
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any updates on the model yet and any on the water shots
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Hi Edward
Really enjoyed reading through the build, any more to show?
Dave