Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => Detail Work, Rigging, Fittings, Figures Etc. => Topic started by: Pointy on July 27, 2006, 08:13:40 am
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Glued in clear plastic for windows. Checked it before I glued in the above decks and it looked great. After decks glued on the clear plastic went foggy and I can't access it now!!!! >:( As this model has small windows its not to bad but its bleedin' annoying. I don't know why I let it happen, suppose its because I've taken so long on thie model I'm beginning to get fed up with it and just want to get on with things? How do I avoid this problem (fogging plastic) in the future? Would it bother you or would you rip off the above decks (which were difficult to fit) and railings and mast to deal with it? Not sure its worth the possible damage, not that notice-able until you are up close but still....
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Pointy ...did you cyno cos if you did thats the problem I use good old evostic have to be carefull when applying though , nearly all plastics , accetates change with age anyway hope this helps
Cheers
Bob B
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Paint windows translucent black. Call it tinted windows.
- 'Doc
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Yes, I agree with Bob. All plastic will decay/decompose as it ages, and clear will become foggy in due course. All you have done, Pointy, is accelerate the process! I also agree with his comment about EvoStik, although there may be clear silicone alternatives - but these might also affect the plastic, so a little experiment on some scrap might be advisable.
Years ago you used to be able to buy very thin "microscope slide" glass, which might, if still available, be worth considering for future projects.
Rick
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Paint windows translucent black. Call it tinted windows.
- 'Doc
Unless you painted the windows black on the outside, you'd still see the fogging. Westbourne sell a special glue for fixing aircraft canopies, and that doesn't fog at all. I'd expect most larger shops to stock it.
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I use "Formula '560'" Canopy Glue by PACER
It's a type of PVA glue and drys almost clear!
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I use "Formula '560'" Canopy Glue by PACER
It's a type of PVA glue and drys almost clear!
I'm pretty sure that's the one I had in mind, if so, good stuff.
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What a brilliant idea RickF ! I would never have thouht of using microsope slides (or cover glass) If you type microscope slides into search engine there are quite a few suppliers - Brunel for one ( sorry havent worked out how to do links , will have to ask Daughter ! )
Now whats the best way to cut glass ....... ?
cheers rats
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If you can't source Formula 560 by Pacer, a perfect alternative is 'R/C Modellers Craft Glue', by Deluxe Materials. I use this successfully and it's readily available in model/craft shops. It's a PVA type glue but dries clear and flexible.
Mike
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I just painted my Flower Class windows satin black, i now prefer it that way than just clear.
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The secret to cutting g.l.a.ss is to do it with scissors under water, protective gloves and gl.a.ss.es and go c a r e f u l l y,
have seen it done under my very own eyes but never had the courage to do it myself.
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A friend ,into plastic aircraft recommended using a floor cleaner called "Klear" by Johnson wax removes the frosted effect
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the bridge windows on Celestia have fogged, though 20ft out from the bank, who is going to know?
the main super structure windows I used white plasticard sprayed black.
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We are blessed with a local company which replaces gl"bottom" in windows (houuses, cars, etc.). They also sell plexigl"bottom" sheets. Considering the cost of the plexigl"bottom" sheets I asked if I might have some of the scrap from their shop, when available. Left name and phone number, it's been three months, didn't really expect to ever hear from them again. Happened by one day, thought "what the @#$$" and decided to stop. The lady said she was really glad to see me because they had lost my phone number and would I like to pick up that scrap now? !!! 'Why sure! Be happy to!'. It's a lucky thing I drive a small truck instead of a car. Several trips later I have more clear and tinted plexigl"bottom" than I will ever use. Discarded all the really small stuff before I got home, the trash dumpster people hate me. Also told the gl"bottom" company I really appreciated their thoughtfulness and that I wouldn't want them to go out of their way to save the scraps any more (also changing my phone number just in case!), I'm very considerate you know. (Another 'T'-shirt with "STUPID" written across the front, right?)
- 'Doc
PS - What was the point of all that? If you have such a 'gl"bottom" company' within driving distance, you might ask about their scrap. Wear gloves...
I made the 'bottom' word list!! I've made my day.
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Next time why not set your windows in clear silicone it works for me wiht no leaks
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Thanks for the input guys, its good to know that its not worth ripping the superstructure up over this! Silicone sounds good for the next time, can I get that from a model shop?
Can't believe I've got this far, remember shivering outside in begining of January smoothing the inner hull with body filler now here I am almost there. Just have to fit small details, one last coat of satin varnish on the outside. The inside is another story, yet to fit any electronics- was convinced they would not be neccessary as I'd screw it up! By the way, whats the best thing to do with that flexable wire arial, seems a pity to spoil the look of the boat by having it on the outside- can you fit it inside?
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... By the way, whats the best thing to do with that flexable wire arial, seems a pity to spoil the look of the boat by having it on the outside- can you fit it inside?
I run the antenna in Espirit up one of 4 antenna tubes, bit being 1/18th its "get away withable", though i run the antenna under the deck of Celestia and Gemini, however it has been known for people to cut the antenna, and bare the wire and solder it to a stancheon, so to use the deck railings as the antenna, however i personally do not reccomend this!!. a bit of doublesided sticky tape to the inside of the hull, being sure to keep as far away from the motor as possible and you can not go wrong
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Go to B+Q and either buy their own brand of clear silicne bathroom sealer or any of hte good makes,but MAKE SURE IT IS WATER RESISTANT because there is one thta is not good luck
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The antenna can be fitted inside the boat. Just a couple of 'rules'/suggestions. Keep it as far from any other electrical stuff as possible. Not winding into a coil (might as well cut it off by that much). Around the deck edge works most times. And you could always add a brass wire as a 'scale' antenna and mast, then connect the antenna to it. Making the thing stick up higher is always 'better' from the radio's point of view, but not necessarily from the modeler's point of view (higher is better, just not absolutely necessary). Or, spend a few pennies (HAH!) extra for a 2.4 Ghz radio system... 3" antennas!
- 'Doc
(I could put up with a lot of "ugly" for the few pennies for that 2.4 Ghz radio :))
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The main thing with the aerial is to both keep it as far away from the motor and its wiring as possible, and as high as possible. Provided that you are not using a metal hull, you should have no problems. I have managed to reduce range by coiling the aerial in a tidy manner, but one of my models has the "surplus" coiled at about 1 1/2" diameter and is blu-tacked to the side of the bow vertically. It seems good for about 100 yards, at which point I tend to lose sight of it anyway.
Adequate supression on the motors helps a lot, as well.
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I had nothing but trouble when I coiled an aerial wire in a small fast electric. Lucky to get 100 inches, never mind yards. Keeping the wire uncoiled and mostly vertical cured the problem. However I do wonder why the manufacturers, Hitec in this case, make the aerials so long, well over 18 inches - which is a lot to string out on a small <18" model ???
Cheers
Doug
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funny you should mention that, the antenna of my R114F in gemini is almost able to do a full circle of the boat, now if it were an R136F or R147F in the same boat, the antenna WOULD go round the boat 1 1/2 times.
I cant wait for Futaba to bring out a resonable 2.4ghz set