Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => Painting, Finishing and Care. => Topic started by: barryfoote on May 20, 2008, 09:22:55 am
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I have read with interest the advise on masking off for painting. I am going to adopt the advise given by Stavros (again) and use good quality insulation tape with masking tape over the top.
My question is this: Having painted the hull red, I now need to paint the upper hull matt black. How long should I leave the freshly painted red, before applying all this tape? Is there a chance that the tape will pull some of the red off? Sorry that makes two questions!!, but I don't want to carry on till I am sure..
Barry
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It's me again!!! in your case three years O0 seriously though if you have rubbed down the hull well in your conditions,ie loads of sunshine within 3hrs.I usually leave mine overnight.
Stavros
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Stavros,
You are a star.....many thanks amigo and watch this space for any errors that will undoubtedly occur.....
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remember to demask within 10mins of painting and run that clean finger along the paint join to settle it down
Stavros
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I used insulation tape, once, to achieve a good edge but it did pull off the paint when removed, so obviously there must be different grades of the stuff. Beware.
Ken
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But Ken did you prepare the hull PROPERLY,the only reason for that to happen is bad preparation
Stavros
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Probably not, Dave. I just thought it was extra virgin sticky. It ruined the paint job, so I don't use it any more. :embarrassed:
Ken
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The best masking tape I have found is one from the model shop but I am blowed if I can remember the make - Tamiya or something like that (I will have a look in my workshop tomorrow and post the name - if I can remember :-\. It leaves a perfect edge and paint does not leach underneath it. It is rather narrow but you can follow on with ordinary masking tape overlapping. It is easy to remove, even after being left several days and does not lift the paint. I believe it was first brought out for the model aircraft enthusiasts but it is great on boats. There is also a paint-on masking fluid but I'm afraid I know nothing about this.
Happy masking, guys.
Derek. :police:
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Bradley
was this the stuff you where looking for
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-TAMIYA-Masking-Tape-6mm-10mm-18mm-Set-3-pcs_W0QQitemZ280226354823QQihZ018QQcategoryZ2594QQtcZphotoQQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
peter
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Yes, Peter, that's the stuff. Best model masking tape you can get. O0
That saves my poor old brain trying to remember to look for it in the morning.
Derek. :police:
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Footski
Best test of whether or not paint is dry is to sniff it from very close up. If you can still smell any solvent then it ain't dry. Pour another Sangria and read those Instructions AGAIN!!
Works for me (well, the Sangria bit does .........)
FLJ
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stavros
what is the >:(TRICK >>:-( for taping around the bow and gettin it stright
i tried 3 time on the happy hunter :'( the bow is a pita O0
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Footski
Best test of whether or not paint is dry is to sniff it from very close up. If you can still smell any solvent then it ain't dry. Pour another Sangria and read those Instructions AGAIN!!
Works for me (well, the Sangria bit does .........)
FLJ
dave,
Instructions beginning to look very sad.....read them so many times......Just making a base board for it....In betwen the odd cold glass...
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I always use the Tamiya masking tape. You get no bleed back under it and it gives a really sharp edge. It is also easy to remove. O0
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I always use the Tamiya masking tape. You get no bleed back under it and it gives a really sharp edge. It is also easy to remove. O0
Works for me, too, Richard. I once tried insulation tape but the ridge of paint which was left was too pronounced, and I don't like de-masking while there's any chance that the paint isn't at least touch-dry. Yeah - so it's not cheap, but the best never is (and how much have you spent just on a few rattle-cans already?).
Suit yourself.
FLJ
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bigford,
If you use the Tamiya masking tape you will have no problem fitting it round the bows or any other curves also as it is so flexible. I presume that you have marked in the waterline with pencil and use this line as the guide for your masking tape. O0
Derek. :police:
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remember to demask within 10mins of painting and run that clean finger along the paint join to settle it down
Stavros
Okay after all the nagging.. O0 O0 I did as I was told. I used a very expensive insulation tape which cost about 3 squids a roll. Applied it and put applied three coats of black. Then had to rush around removing all the tape and sheeting , washed my hands and before I had time to think about it I was applying my finger to that edge....It worked though, just flattening the it a tiny amount but enough to give a great finish...Spot on Stavros...as usual...Thanks amigo...
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PHEW it worked thanks for trying out my idea,didnt know if it would work or not HE HE
Seriously though it is quite daunting posting advise like this simply because I can not control what you the Modeler does out there but it just goes to show that if someone actually LISTENS to what I have to say it WORKS
Stavros