Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Working Vessels => Topic started by: Tug-Kenny RIP on May 25, 2008, 05:49:20 pm
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Last week I went down to Waverley Models in Clevedon, Somerset, to collect the Waverley parts. It is not a full kit in the box, but the drawings and some of the pieces needed to start me off. He has the rest of the pieces to complete the model which I will be buying over the period of time.
This is a list of the pieces I have at the moment.
The hull is 60 inches long and beautifully made. All the rivets are there (for the rivet counters) and it even has a modified section of plating where the original Waverley had repairs. ;D
The paddle wheels are all shiny and well cut, and should be interesting to assemble, as they are the feathering type. Whether they influence the sailing, matters not, because of the realism of the construction.
The paddle boxes are preformed moulds, so this will save getting the build wrong, and will enhance the model when fitted. I've even bought the stanchions, as these are special with two holes and a plain top for fitting the wooden rail.
Of course there are a lot more pieces to get and build, but I was assured that these would keep me occupied for the time being !! ;)
Then we are on to planking the deck (should please some of you, eh Footski!!) so tomorrow it's off to the tool shop for the band saw. This will be my first model in wood, so please help me everyone.
Ken.
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Years ago as a child my parents took my sister and i on a day trip up the clyde from Ayr on the Waverley the memories will last for ever.
I well remember being fascinated by the massive engine and also being frightend walking past the paddles on the lower deck with the water thundering through them.
Looks a really nice moulded hull and well detailed paddle set.
Wish you well with your build and look forward to having my memories refreshed some more
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Kenny,
That hull looks a cracker...really looking forward to seeing the build progress....planking the deck.....superb amigo. Not difficult with a little patience and well worth the effort...
WELL COME ON::::GET ON WITH IT!!!!!
Barry
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I can't seem to clear the Mayhem letters section ......... ::)
It's very busy on here these days. Maybe I could work night shift.
Hope to start within the hour.
Ken
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Here is a build Blog of the P.S.Waverley.
I have purchased the Hull and paddles from Waverley Models in Clevedon, Somerset and these came with the outline plans of the real ship. The model will be constructed as best as possible to copy the original ship from the 1970’s using scratch build and commercial parts where possible.
The pictures are labelled in numerical order, and will be referred to as we go along, so we’ll start off with the basic hull. Picture (1)
I couldn’t resist placing the paddle boxes on the side to get a general impression of her (2). Now the work begins by cutting out the windows and port holes in the hull. First, I marked out the positions and then drilled tiny holes in the hull. I enlarged these to the correct sizes with a Dremmel, whilst wearing my breathing apparatus, as the fibreglass dust was everywhere. It was then time to vacuum out the workshop. (One of the many clean ups during this build!)
I then purchased an 8x4 sheet of 3.6mm ply from the builder’s merchants, as this was cheaper than buying small pieces from a model shop. A piece was cut slightly larger than the ship as I wanted a one piece section for the top of the deck. (3) & (4). The square windows are the unusual feature of this ship, so it was important to get them square and tidy looking. (5).
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Paddle wheel construction
I have gone for the feathering type of paddle wheel, as I believe this represents the beauty of this model. I’ve opted for the brass version and these are the parts that are needed. (6)
The parts were dry fitted to get a general impression of how it goes together. (7) (9). The outer rim is not used on the Waverley, so this had to be removed. (10). I was then left with just the centre pieces. (11) (12)
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The paddle blades were the bent in a vice, as per the guide lines, so as to fit across the newly cut inner rims. (13) (14)
The banjos were then fitted to the rims with 2mm nuts and bolts. The original suggestion was to cut 2mm rod into little rivet sizes and hammer them to get a close fit with movement. This did not appeal to me and I require a better accuracy ratio when working on details like these. I had to buy 200 nuts and bolts to cover the job in hand. (15) (16) (17)
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The paddle blades recommended material was mahogany sheet at 3mm, but I have opted for 3mm plastic, as it’s more flexible to work with and it’s water resistant. I’ve found that strips of the correct width can be bought from the DIY stores, so these were obtained. They were then cut to the desired length and fitted to the paddles with 4off, 2mm nuts and bolts, and locktight was glued around the ends. The banjos were countersunk at one end and a 2mm bolt was super glued in one end. (18) (19).
These were left to dry overnight (20) and in the morning, the whole lot was fitted together. (21) (22) (23). Major problems surfaced at this point, in that the feathering action was severely curtailed in movement.
Inspection revealed that the inside edges of the blades were a fraction too wide and were not travelling far enough inwards, so the whole lot was dismantled to have the edges shimmed down a few millimeters. (24)
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The feathering point of the banjo unit had me stumped, so I had to seek advice.
My thanks to Eddy for pointing me in the right direction. I’m new to paddlers and could be seeking further help yet.
It took all day to assemble the two sets of paddle wheels, but finally they are up and running. (25) (26)
The next stage involved the fitting of the drive shaft in the ship. First a pilot hole was drilled in the side as per the original drawings and a matching hole the other side was laser marked through the hull. These were drilled out to 6mm diameter and the brass bar run through. I then fitted on the paddle wheels temporarily to get a general feel for the situation. The paddle boxes were cut with slots to slide down over the wheels. (27)
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The bearings problem became simple when it was found that some phosphor bronze bearings from a Tamiya car had 6mm holes in them. The outer diameter was drilled in the hull to accommodate these, and it is planned to epoxy some large washers each side to bed them in securely. How we stop water coming up the shaft is yet to be figured out.
We then moved on the deck cutting and fitting squarely. This was done on a fret saw and sanding wheels. (more dust and respirators!) (28)
The paddle wheels were fitted just to see the effect. It’s beginning to look the part now. (29)
The deck was removed and holes cut in where we want access under the proposed cabins on top. (30)
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Today was cut and glue day as last night I epoxied the deck stringers in place. I believe in overdoing the clamping as it tends to be rather permanent all this epoxy stuff. (32) (33)
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I have cleaned out the slots for the access holes. These will be edged in wood to take the cabins above.
Once again I couldn't resist fitting on top of the ship to see the fit. Overnight, the stringers have pushed out the sides a little, but not to worry as they will pull back together when the connecting stringers are fitted. (34) (35)
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Next off was to cut a template for the base floor. This was then transferred to the plywood and cut out. A little bit of sanding around the edges to ensure a nice fit and then it was epoxied in and held in place with four heavy batteries. While that's drying, I have called it a day to have a beer.
The floor will help me in the securing of the motor and sliders to encase the battery. I like to fit these major lumps before topping the deck as it makes access much easier. (36)
The next step was to build the Aft passenger lower cabin floor. (37) (38) (39)
I plan to fit this section with chairs and table lights that can be seen through the square windows. I had a go at making the back to back chairs today and try and find a good way of looking good. When I crack it, I shall be making upwards of 20 of em !! No pictures yet as I'm still working on it.
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The pool is inflated and filled and we're ready to go.
Today I placed the 'valuable project' into the water and she floated. I then started ballasting her until she came down to marks
Unfortunately, I forgot there was portholes very low down and went to fetch some batteries. When I returned the ship was at the bottom of the pool. (up to my old tricks again !!)
The ship was dried out and the portholes were taped over and we tried again. I am pleased to report that she will take a total ballast of 7 Kilo, which was two and a half 7 A/hr batteries. Very impressive, as I can run her on one large battery and have all the extras I was planning on. (40) (43)
I noticed that the paddle wheel were not very low in the water, and would like to ask if you think I should fit them lower down please. I have placed a twig against them to show the water height.(41) (42)
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It was then off to the workshop to design a bench seat, as I need a large number of these so I had to find the simple way of mass producing them.
here are a few samples made from plastic. (47) till my wife said 'why don't you make them of wood'
While this was going on. I had to make the extra pointy bit on the Bow, as it was not produced on the original Hull. I made plastic strips and secured them around the pointy bit and then filled it with car repair paste, which 'went off' in 6 minutes. I'll see what it sands down like tomorrow. (45) (46)
Back to the benches... Once we had got the design in our head it was 'off and running'. I made about 23 before I called it a day. (44) ....back to the beer time.
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Well, once I got in the workshop, there was no stopping me. I've been working like a dog all day.
First the query on the paddle boxes some of you have raised. Upon inspection of the drawings it appears there are side pieces to be added. I cut them out and placed them on top of the boxes and the length just grew and grew, See pics (48) (49) (50)
Looks more like it now eh !! Thanks for that Derek, I need all the help I can get. ;D. I shall be securing the boxes and extra bits soon. I've yet to sand the hull to remove the flashing and production errors.
I removed one error today, when I notice one porthole out of line. Had to refill the hole and will relocate it when the filler is dry.
Decided to fit the edging strips around the deck access holes, ready for the cabins above. When they are dry, I can cut the cabins walls and fit them exactly to this surround. it should then be a waterproof type of seal, or at least, splash proof. (51) (52)
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I then filed down the filler on the Bow and refilled the gaps to raise the surface and match the hull. A bit more smoothing down and we shall have a new raised Bow end. last picture above (53)
Did a bit of sanding on my home made bench seats by curving the chair section to accommodate the passengers legs. Can't have them getting uncomfortable, can we. 8) I drew some parallel lines across them to simulate wood planks and plan to stain them and varnish to match. I understand these are in fact some sort of life saver when thrown into the sea. There are supposed to be cords hanging from them to grab hold of in the water, but I don't know if this is being too fussy to build them !
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HY ken,
Thats looking really good mate, very impressive. I will have to call over and have a closer look, well done
Bosun
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Thanks, Bosun. The kettle's always on. Don't get out much these days.
This build is really giving me pleasure. After making five in the last two years, I'm enjoying working with wood for a change. Unfortunately, the workshop is getting very dusty and it's getting everywhere. :embarrassed:
Ken
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Ken
You are making fantastic progress! Well done. O0
I hope the discs have arrived safely and trust they will be helpful.
Regards
Andrew
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I
Did a bit of sanding on my home made bench seats by curving the chair section to accommodate the passengers legs. Can't have them getting uncomfortable, can we. 8) I drew some parallel lines across them to simulate wood planks and plan to stain them and varnish to match. I understand these are in fact some sort of life saver when thrown into the sea. There are supposed to be cords hanging from them to grab hold of in the water, but I don't know if this is being too fussy to build them !
Dont know if this will help Ken. :-\
Taken during 2003 refurbishment
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Hi Ken when working with GRP I allways have a hoover running to get rid of all the dust when filling drilling etc O0
Glad to see that those batts have their uses,bloomin invaluable they are for everything.With regards your paddles they seem high to me,but I have never had a paddler so ?????????
Stavros
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Hi Andrew. Yes the disks arrived yesterday and I've gone through them. We liked the movie of the trip. It was super, and so well photographed, it was like being there.
I'm running this Blog on "Paddleducks" as well so now I've doubled my work load. Have to work longer in the shed. :D
Hi Dicky. Thanks for the seat information. regards being fussy, I thought of that as well. It all depends on how the rest of it goes. I already earmarked the 'Shed Widow' for sewing duties when she's free. 8)
Hi Stavros. I use my breathing mask a lot of the time with all this wood dust around. (my fault for investing in all this power machinery !!) also, I have a vacuum of my own running at full tilt. Have to empty it quite often.
Just love them heavy batteries. So many uses. O0
The Paddle technology I've had to learn is unbelievable. It seems the depth has to be one paddle blade at six o/clock to be covered in water, and the second blade just entering the water, so I think I'm there. I can always chuck in another battery eh !
Ken
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Onwards with the woodworking today.
I've cut loads of semicircles from 3mm ply in readiness for the curved front wall of the first cabin. (54) These were then glued together, one on top of the other and crushed in the vice. Later, they were removed and sanded to a nice curve. (58) My reason for doing it this way was because I couldn't bend any type of wood that sharp without snapping it.
I then made the walls of the various cabins and glued in position to get a good fit. (55) (56) (57) The curved section was then added and braced into position. (58) and a new flat piece was cut for the funnel section. (59)
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As the funnels are standing on oblong boxes, I decided to make the platforms again using the bread and butter method of the previous design, so I had to cut loads of oblongs ready. (60)
These were then sanded in an oblong shape on the power tools and glued to the new funnel deck. To get an idea of the look, I used six tops from some old rattle paint cans to temporarily make some funnels. (61)
The top of the rear cabin was cut and glued to the side walls, but I notice that the wings are slightly curved. Must be a hot day. I'll see what it looks like tomorrow and decide what to do about it. (62)
I then marked out the paddle extension wings and cut them from ply. They are laid on to check the look at the moment. (64)
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There's your batteries again, Stavros. The things weigh 2.5 kilo and are very handy. No need to keep charging them. ;D ;D
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Remember that since the last refit the funnels are now at the same angle of rake - thank God!
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Remember that since the last refit the funnels are now at the same angle of rake - thank God!
A very good point Colin - But I suppose it depends on which period your modelling the ship on?
Personally I think Waverley looked horrible with the funnels at different angles, but no doubt there will be some people who think it looked better?
Regards
Eddy
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but no doubt there will be some people who think it looked better?
I hope not!
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They are parallel on my plans, so this is how I was going to have them. I didn't know about the different angles (thank goodness) but it doesn't sound nice.
Anyone know where I can get a plastic tube the size of a rattle paint can, please. I have SWMBO looking through the shops for suitable size containers. I've even marked her wrist with a pen of the diameter required. She loves that !!!
Ken
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Whats the diameter Ken ?
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Just roll your own tube out of thin aluminium sheet or lithoplate.... That's what I do....
Eddy
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Kenny,
Re funnels
Have you thought about using the rattle can as a former and using 0.5mm plasticard - probably at least two layers required.
I'm going to try this method to make up some small kort nozzles. Working on the former now.
HTH
Doug
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Ken have you tried drainpipe that was the right dia for me pm me the size and if it is the same will send you some down
Stavros
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I contemplated rolling my own tube, but was put off by the join line that would be apparent. I shall measure the diameter tomorrow and let you know the size. (it is actually damn close to a rattle can itself. (wish I hadn't thrown the used ones away now !!)
Goodnight ......... I'm falling asleep at the keyboard
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Ken, you put so much work in your buildlogs for us to enjoy. Thanks, and keep them coming!
Sweet dreams.
Hama.
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Late start today 8)
I measured the drawings and the funnels are 60mm diameter.
Ken
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Hi Ken got some 68mm outside diam plastic pipe if it's any good to you can cut some off and send it to you pm me with your address
Stavros
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Hi Stavros.
Thanks for the offer, but it would be too wide. I'm committed to the block sizes underneath now. I shall be looking for just under 60mm so that they fit nicely, and don't protrude over the edges.
The wood warping problem had to be sorted. My fault for storing it on it's ends. The rest of the sheet is ruined and has been cut smaller for fillings and offcuts. It's off to the wood yard for another sheet, which will be laid flat this time. :embarrassed:
Here is the view of the removed roof, which wasn't easy to remove. That wood glue sticks rather better than some super glue I know. ::) (65)
Ken
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Off to the builders merchants for another 8x4 sheet of 3.6mm ply.
This time I cut it into smaller pieces, so it's down to 4x2 sheets. These will be stored flat until I need them. I then made a new roof for the rear cabin and have it under my 'powered' weights for the night. That should keep it flat. ;D (69)
I have bought a plastic steam engine kit and plan to use the piston side of things as a dummy above the electric motor. Here are the parts all laid out ready for construction. (66) (67) (68)
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Decided not to proceed with the steam engine bits as I've been informed they are from a much older type of machine.
Overnight, the gluing has taken place of the new flat roof on the rear cabin. (70) and I was able to proceed with the fitting of the Bridge deck and walkways. (71)
Here you will be able to see the 'wrap around shelter ' area, previously referred to. (72) I have kept the height the same all the way around as advised. There is a gentle curve on the bow end, with straight sides and back pieces,
I have found a suitable pipe for the funnels and have cut and angled them to suit. (Hooray, a ship at last) (73)
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I have placed some furniture on board and taken a few snaps of the work so far. I enjoyed making the master staircase to the upper deck. This was made from 1.5 mm wood as steps, and was secured with superglue. (74 to 79)
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Some mood shots from the waters edge are at (80) (81)
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I had a man around to check the carpentry on the steps. (83) Then it was time to start on the Paddle boxes.
First, I cut the slot for the shaft in the rear of the assembly and then lined it up with the hull. There was a ridge of fibreglass around the top of the boat which was cut back flush with the sides, to allow the top of the paddle box to lie flush. The hull was drilled with 3mm holes to allow the box to be bolted to the hull after applying epoxy resin, they were tightened down. No turning back from here. (84) I then cut the sides from 3.6mm sheets and measured the angles (3 bends) to fit the plastic paddle box to the sides of the hull. Eight pieces were made and sized up ready to be fitted when the glue has dried. It does occur to me at this point that the lower tapered pieces are going to spend their time in water and be flooded when the paddle wheels start rotating ??. I might cover them with epoxy to preserve them and may be drill a few holes downward to let it escape ?
We then thought about this angled section on the windcheaters around the sides of the bridge, and decided that as they were angled, to copy this with a piece of 2mm wood with a slope on it. It was epoxied in and clamped for the night. We shall smooth it down tidy tomorrow, and fit some imitation hinges to simulate a drop down section. (85)
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Change of design
Thank you all for your letters of support for my little project. I also realise that the weight is getting critical, so I have changed the design a bit. Before I made any changes, I weighed her with all the fittings made to date just placed on top, and she weighs 8lbs, so far.
The 3.6 mm plywood was quite thin and nice to work with, but a lot of it tended to increase the weight a bit. I shall keep the rear cabin in timber as this section will be most used for engine maintenance and controls, and I don’t want it to fall apart. The wooden chairs will be hollowed out to lighten the load and the backs will be reduced in height to look more in scale with the model.
Out goes the wooden bridge deck so its start again with plasticard. Here are a few shots of the progress to date. (86) (87)
The rear access stairway was a little on the sturdy side and a bit out of scale, so this was removed and a new one fitted in its place. (88). I have veneered the upper deck instead of laying planks as I thought it would be lighter than rear wood.
Those funnel supports are solid timber and quite heavy, so they will be drilled out. The funnels will be fitted into these holes and should be a securing fit and will make the assembly a bit lighter.
A light breeze should make her surf across the lake.
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Today I got on with the plastic construction of the Bridge cabin. I’ve brought the computer to the workshop and ran the pictures donated by you guys. This one shows the bridge in super detail and by combining it with my drawings, I was able to get the sizes right and also identify some of the details. (91)
I’ve cut the window holes ready for glazing later after painting. (89) (90). I have also cut the lower cabins windows and door ways. (92)
Onwards to the funnels and how to fit them so they do not fall off. I’ve drilled out the bases to sink then down into the wood. Before this I had to make the tubes oblong by immersing them in boiling water and compressing them long ways by crushing the soft plastic into shape. (94) (93). There are no pictures of this process as I didn’t have any hands free.
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I had my tea break and thought I would do a bit of novelty work inside the cabin, so I’ve made some tables and cabinets for the crew to work at. The drawings don’t show it, but there is a wall dividing the cabin, fore and aft, so I’ve put a door, half open in between. (95)
According to the computer (the computer says Yes!!), my windows were a bit shallow so, I have increased the depth of them and constructed a circular bench seat to place in front. (96) .
I then moved on to the paddle boxes and scrapped the two wooden versions I was building, all in the name of lightness. I have gone over to plastic and have made the top and bottom walkways for both sides and glued the on. (97) (98) (99)
This is the latest position at the moment, so I am taking a break for a week. (100)
Thanks for listening
Ken
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Hi Ken
Have you seen this web site, it might be handy for you.
http://pswaverley.org.uk/
Look under Waverley Rebuild Diary
The full story of the first phase of Waverley's Heritage Rebuild in 2000
The Completion Phase in 2002/03
Loads of photos in both sections.
Great job by the way.
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Thank you for kind comments, Dicky.
I'm really enjoying this build as I consider her a pretty ship. Should get the girls around me at the lakeside eh!!
I know of this site and have perused it's contents several times. I was going on a trip on her, but the paddle shaft has been sent away for repair, so she is laid up at the moment.
I have been fervently collecting all the data I can since starting this one and have quite a collection of pictures now. They are collated on the laptop and I refer to them all day. The great thing about this way is that I can enlarge the view to check certain points. believe me, it's not in the master plans supplied. This one is scratch build from the empty hull upwards, that's why I making such a 'Pigs ear' of it. I shall get there in the end especially as I am getting help from you helpful guys.
Here's me thinking it was a flat top boat with hundreds of people on it. {-) There is is so much more to it and I'm learning all the time.
Time for a break now so it's off to Westbourne Models for a week to spend my pension. (Now where can I get two hundred scale 1/48 people??)
Cheers...Ken
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Hi Ken
You are most definitely not making a 'pigs ear' of anything! What fantastic progress so far!
There is more to her than meets the eye at first, a wonderful old lady brimming with character and memories of a bygone age.
Keep up the good work and enjoy your well earned break. O0
Kind regards
Andrew
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Hi Ken 1:48 scale model people might be a problem but if you can use 1:50 try Virtual Village they do 100 unpainted figures for £5.49 plus p&p.
http://www.virtualvillage.co.uk/store/category.aspx?sck=25464075&Page=2&Sort=1&catid=29045
I have some spare 1:50 people. If you want to try them for size PM me. O0
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1:48 should not be a problem. It is one of the easiest scales to find model figures in.
It's the standard O-scale for US model railways, so any US model railway supplier (there's a few retailers in the UK, I'll try and come up with a few later) will be able to supply a reasonable selection (note that the UK O-scale equivilent is 1:43.5 and the European equivilent is 1:45.. so the plentiful Preiser O-scale figures will be slightly off-scale but close enough for 1:48). Have a look here (http://www.ontracks.co.uk/index.php?page=catalogue&cat=539&toplevel=1) and here (http://www.ontracks.co.uk/index.php?page=catalogue&cat=540) for one supplier of the Preiser 1:45 in painted and unpainted packs, there is also a selection of architectural figures available in 1:50 from suppliers such as this one (http://www.yellowcatshop.co.uk/shop/default.asp?clientid=14&gid=4dmod&viewstate=32769&tabcatid=3500087&subcatid=3500092) (but given the prices you'll soon find out why architectural models are so poorly populated!).
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Thank you for all the suggestions. I have 100 of size 1/50 from China which are painted. The man on the bridge above is one of these. When sized against a version from Model slipway's 1/48, there is an apparent difference in size, which amazed me.
I would have thought that small differences at this size would not have been so obvious, but they cannot be mixed. It's a case of stick to one make throughout all will be well.
The trouble with my crew is that I have to teach them to swim. ;)
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Sorry Ken thought I was going to save you some money. ::) :embarrassed:
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Hi Ken
I`ve found an interesting website which should be a great help with deck details and layout. It is a virtul tour of Waverley! You can click on the on screen arrows to move to another area or click on the list at the side. You click and hold on the picture and as you move your mouse around the picture moves in that direction.
http://www.aetours.co.uk/waverley1/
Before anyone asks, no I don't know how it's done! ;D
There is sound file of the Waverley thundering along as you look at the pictures. Hope you had an enjoyable weeks break.
Regards
Andrew
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WOW
That is absolutely fantastic.
I have had some help so far, but this is more than I could have asked for.
I shall have no excuses now, but to get on with the build. There seems to be a few chairs to build, eh DickyD!!
Thank you, Pioneer. A wonderful find. Now if only I could buy the CD. 8)
Cheers...Ken
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Looking very good! (not sure why I didn't notice your recent updates, as I was following this thread with interest earlier)
That panoramic view site is very interesting (not to mention great for detail reference!) - it's a shame this hasn't been done with more historic ships.
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I've been back for the non conducted tour. Amazing what you notice the second time around.
I was trying to source the manufacturer of this fine movie, but not having much luck. How on earth did you find it, Pioneer?
Not much to report on my build as I'm sourcing more parts at the moment. Unfortunately, some more work has come in commercially, so there will also be this delay.
Keep you posted
Ken
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Hi Ken
I found the virtual tour by complete accident this morning while trying to find the contact details for Caledonian Macbraynes head office in gourock. The link was at the bottom of this page.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caledonian_MacBrayne
I never fail to be amazed at what surprises the internet can provide.
I'm delighted to have been able to pass on the link. What a very special site this is! Thank you Martin!! O0
Regards
Andrew
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Kenny
She is looking great. I have not been able to access this thread for some time as it kept timing out on me but being a persistant devil, I finally managed this morning and am so glad I did. Keep it up amigo.
Barry
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Thanks again, Pioneer. O0
Hi Barry. Thanks for that. I'm really enjoying this build. Talk about scratch building, this one is total research. I now have loads of clues, thanks to pioneer.
I am sourcing parts at the moment and having trouble getting the large 'Air vents'. They are 12mm diameter and 64mm tall (yes!!) I've tried heating a plastic tube in boiling water and inserting a wooden dowel in the end and giving it a twist. What a laugh. Anyone want a floppy, bent out of line bits of plastic? Well it made me smile anyway. There's more to this scratch building than meets the eye. 8)
Have broken off to repair some pianos this week. Very handy 'Pin money'. Should keep me in superglue for a few weeks. ;)
Ken
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Hi Ken I will check out my stock in the morning as I think I bought some at a show from Mountfiled modles will measuse them for you
Stavros
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Thank you Stavros. Sounds great. I was wondering if boat kit manufacturers would sell off parts, as my trawler has something similar, which could be lengthened.
I have a largish tolerance with the diameter and could run between 11mm and 14mm, I suppose. O0
Ken
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Ken pm me your tel no and I will ring you in the morning
Stavros
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I've got back into gear and opened up the workshop again, so it’s on with the scruffy clothes and radio on with a cup of tea.
Today I thought I would make a trolley for the new boat as she is 62 inches long and could be a bit unwieldy on the way to the lake.
I have acquired a disused child's wheelchair and stripped it down of non essential bits. I then sanded it down and sprayed it brown. I then made a stand for the boat and attached some steel legs to insert in the trolley. This has been painted gold and is drying nicely out in the sun. (101) (102) (103)
This is removable, so the boat can stay on it and the trolley collapses for easy car transporting. My wife says "no matter how much you try to disguise it, it still look like a wheelchair" Our workshop now looks like a clinic. :embarrassed:
Back in the workshop, I considered the lifeboats and how to make them. I have tried various methods and am running three types of design. (105) (105) (106)
I have opted for the carved out of solid wood version and have produced four. They are carved out inside and benches have been fitted. I then glued some thin veneer around the top outside edge and clamped this to the keel/ end posts. They have been set aside to dry overnight. (108) Tomorrow I shall sand down the outside keel frame to a modest size.
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The four lifeboats are sanded down and seats fitted, so it was out with the undercoat. They dried out nice during the night and filled the flaws quite nicely, so today I applied the top coat (109)
The funnels have three colours so, as the top was black, I decided to keep the original plastic colour here and taped off ready for the other colours. I sprayed the funnel tubes with red oxide and it's drying nicely. (110)
To continue on the paddle boxes, I've decided to re fit the wooden tops to them, as this will bring their height up to deck level. (111) (112)
I shall be fitting edging strips around them to improve their look. Also planned, is to fit a sealed cover under the inside edge to make airtight boxes around the wheels, so if she should heal over, it might help keep her afloat.
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Just love your dedication and imagination. Excellent work on the lifeboats. You have given me some good ideas there. I am waiting for some balsa to be delivered before I start the boats for Lady T.
Cheers Ken
Barry
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The life boats are small enough not to worry about their weight, so I decided not to use Balsa wood. I used a close grain lump of timber about 2" x 2" x 6" and just whittled away until they looked right. The only details I had were the length of the boats from the plans. I'm not sure what the wood was, but having seen the result, I thought I might use a classy piece next time to leave unpainted and show the grain when varnished.
Mind you, I had a ton of chippings on the floor when finished. The power tools used were unbelievable.
First there was the power saw, followed by the powered fretsaw, to cut the block down to a rough boat type of shape. The outside was then sanded with a circular sander and smoothed with a powered sanding belt and finished off with a small file and then hand sanded down smooth.
The insides of the lifeboat were then drilled out with a vertical power drill using a 1/4 inch drill all around the inside edge to a variable depth to suit the curvature of the hull. I actually ruined one boat by drilling right through to the outside edge, so it was back to the start for another one. (wish I'd made a spare when I had to tools set up !!)
This was followed by a modified wood drill (with a flat top) fitted in the power bench drill to gouge out the insides. The piece being held in the hand whilst doing this. The vibrations were quite something, and 'Health and safety' would have been horrified to watch. The wood was quite hard so it stood up to this kind of savage treatment.
The rough insides were then fettled smoother with a hand held Dremmel sanding drum, and finally smoothed out with sandpaper.
I then made the little bench seats from thin planking wood and glued them in place. The keel was a one piece of three ply, 3.6mm thick which was fret sawed to surround the boats and sanded to ensure a snug wrap around and glued in place. I then glued an edging strip around the bulwarks. When dry the edges were power sanded about 3mm all around the hull to simulate the keel and rudder posts. The tiny gaps were filled with wood filler and sandpapered to a smooth exterior.
The boats were then sealed with red oxide spray a few times, and the top coat of white was gradually sprayed on a little bit at a time during the day so as not to produce any runs. During the gap in production, I was making a plank on frame version. I had cut the frames out and glued them to the keel and was placing a plank on with super glue every hour. These were held in place with little clamps and was very labour intensive. I'm now up to the top level on both sides and looks quite 'boaty' Pictures to follow.
Part two involves fitting the hand held ropes all around the edges and not forgetting the rowlocks and oars. I'll let you know how I get on.
Ken
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It was a nice warm day today, so it called for more painting. I have masked off, and sprayed the funnels. (113) Also painted again were the lifeboats. These now have a coat of brown on the inside and the outside sprayed white, yet again. (it all adds to the smoothness of the finish)
Further work was done strengthening the paddle boxes. I have secured the lower fins (it’s what I call them) which taper to the hull from the curved sections, by fitting a small length of wood underneath to contact the hull, all epoxied in.
I noticed that there were three little portholes under this section already cut out, so I have re filled them with epoxy car filler. We don’t want windows below the water line now, do we?
The rear cover for the rudder was then covered in veneer to simulate wood planks. This is my first attempt at this caper so it’s good to start on something small. Good job I chose this as the learning curve is quite steep. So much can go wrong. Glue leakage going on the fingers and being transferred back to the veneer’s top surface. Ugh!!! No pictures yet.
I am now awaiting potholes and other things, so the building is paused until they arrive.
The parts built so far were then assembled on the model and taken out into the sun for some more movie clips to be made. These will be added together and edited for another ‘You tube’ build
Here are a few stills of the progress so far. (114) (115) (116)
If you can see any mistakes in the design, I would appreciate you telling me now before I start painting the hull and fitting permanent things.
Cheers for now. Ken
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Looking good Ken, Cant help wondering what you are going to use the potholes for. :-\
You know, the ones you are waiting for. ;)
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Hi Dicky. Thank you for the compliment.
There are quite a few of these 6mm portholes on this model. I have already drilled out the holes in readiness for fitting the ring portholes. I then have to fill them with clear epoxy, to simulate the glass. Clear plastic cannot be fitted as the water pressure (so near the water line) would blow them in.
You can see the row of dots under the square windows where I've drilled out the holes.
Some builders just fill these apertures with clear epoxy, but I fancy a nice ring around them, to stand proud. I might even paint them a brass colour to make them stand out even more. The next big problem is the square windows with cross members with glazing and curtains. Might get SWMBO to help make them. ;)
Ken
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AH 6mm portholes not 6mm potholes then. ;)
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Starting to look real good Ken, progressed alot since the last time I saw her........
Mark.
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;) A sort of caving boat. 8) Thanks Dicky.
Thanks Mark. When you coming around? You need a break from all that building.
Ken
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Thank you for all your comments. I do agree with ones about the shaft location. This is indeed a little high, so the bearings were removed and the holes filled in. A new location hole was drilled, along with the matching one the other side. My little pocket Laser came in handy here. These were then fitted with a new set of bearings which were glued in to the new location. (117)
Here you can also see the wood sections that I’ve fitted, to strengthen up the paddle boxes. These are thin 3ply glued on to the existing plastic ones. I then fitted an edging strip from thin timber all the way around the edges to finish it off.
I had acquired 70, 6mm plastic portholes and laid them on a sheet of plastic. I then mixed up some clear epoxy and spoon fed a drop into each hole and left overnight. Two days later, the stuff had not set, so I set about scraping it back out and ruined them, so they are now in the bin. I like you idea about the brass ones, Sandy, so I might pursue this avenue.
While the glue was drying I made a stand assembly for her from thicker 3 ply and glued it all together and left clamped all night. The next day I cut up a mouse mat for the rubber strips and glued these on to the curves to hold the boat without scratching the paintwork.
The paddle boxes were sealed around the edges and sanded down smooth ready for painting. The hull was also smoothed over and various bumps and gaps were filled and sanded down. (119) (120)
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It was then out with my favourite paint, the old red oxide undercoat. This was gently sprayed on throughout the day, to gradually build up a smooth coat with no runs. (121)
The next day I partially assembled the bits and pieces to get an idea what she might look like, and also continue with a few more movie shots to be added to the film of her. (122) (123) (124)
I am presently working on the paddles, and lining them up to fit the blade moving mechanism, so as to be feathering. I notice that there are a few problems here and have given up for the day.
Primarily, I’ve decided the blades could be a few millimetres wider so as to catch as much water as possible. This now involves taking them apart and making new blades. A good job I didn’t loc-tight all the screws, methinks. I’ve only used it on the blades so far.
I also have the problem of where to secure the bearing for the feathering mechanism. If I secure it to the paddle boxes, then there is a risk of vibration shaking then from the hull. I plan to fit a brass strip to the hull and bring it out along the outside edge of the wheels. This would have to be removable to allow the wheels to be fitted and removed, if desired.
This model is a million problems as there are no detailed plans to work to, and it’s all scratch build. Great fun. We shall overcome.
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She is coming on well Ken, I will have to come over soon and have a closer look .................Put the kettle on O0 O0 O0
Mark.
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Looking good Ken. When you have sorted your problems out you can help me with mine on the Milford Star.
I have one drawing (not to scale), one photo (so dark you cant see any detail) and an instruction book (book {-) {-)) which is so vague as to be a waste of time.
But we wont be beaten eh ? :-\
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Hi Mark Cummon down :D
Hi Dicky. Is this the one.
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She is coming on well Ken, I will have to come over soon and have a closer look .................Put the kettle on O0 O0 O0
Mark.
I reckon too much liquid refreshment was taken.....Opps did I drop something?? O0
Kenny,
She is certainly a complicated build and all the more interesting for that. I am really enjoying your thread.
Barry
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Thats thec one Ken. O0
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Hello Ken, you said in your post of 11th July that you wanted any mistakes in the design of your Waverley pointed out. Now I hesitate to seem critical, as I admire what you have achieved so far in what is a complicated subject. Please will you accept this in the spirit in which it is made - to help achieve the best possible result for your model.
Where the hances at the bow meet on your model they are at a different rake to the bow itself. If you look at www.waverleyexcursions.co.uk you'll see some pics showing how the whole thing is at the same angle.
The funnels I'd suggest need to be less cylindrical and more elliptical.
Best Wishes
Douglas
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Complicated aint the word for it ...... What a challenge this one is. I'm pulling out all the stops on her. Fantastic build, warts and all. O0
Dicky, your right about the lack of information on your Milford Star. I've scanned the net, but drew a blank. We'll have to read your blog to see how it's done now, so get on with it please. ;)
Thank you for your comment, westcoaster, but I'm nor sure what you mean. Can you explain in more detail please. (hances ?) The drawings have been followed faithfully but the model is always ready for alterations.
Ken
ps ... having some more time away from her as 'work' has come in. :(
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I reckon I know what Douglas is on about Ken, its the bit at the top of the bow, the rake is different to the bow and it should be the same. O0
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Dicky's got it O0
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Hey there Dicky that is a great job" must have taken some time to put together. And a allot of what ifs you know, like if you- being the (part) will not work or go in I will take the hammer to you. >>:-( But really that is great Job O0 I hope my boat comes out half as good.
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No wonder they call you crazydoyle11, its not my boat its tug kenny's. ::)
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Ah !! 8)
Consider it done. Thank you again for pointing it out.
Ken
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OOOPPss :o sorry man I mant Tug Kenny ::)
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Thank you Mr Doyle. Many great hours of wok so far. Enjoying this build, so keep the comments coming in, chaps. I like to get it right. 8)
Thanks for coming around, Mustang Mark. Glad you like her. So sorry to hear about your broken finger. I don't think I could even hold a boat in that state. :o
Ken
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The bow section was queried by a few of you. Mine has a curve towards the top, and this is shown on picture. (125)
The actual ship shows a straight bow all the way upwards. See picture. (126)
Today was spent sanding it down and re spraying and she now looks like this. (127) I’ve placed a steel rule against her and she looks the Biz.
I have, however, noticed that the top section does not seem to go back far enough, compared with the real ship. It does conform to the drawings though. What do you think I should do ?
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That looks alot better Ken, you have been busy...................... Thanks for the coffee this morning..
Mark and Hannah.
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Well, one must assume that the real ship is right... It does rather depend upon which date you are depicting her. Until fairly recently the funnels were not parallel but when the boiler was replaced the opportunity was taken to rectify this which vastly improved her appearance. Re the bow bulwarks, the best bet is to look at photos and be guided by the actual appearance of the ship.
All the pictures I have found indicate that the bow bulwarks go back further than on your model and that this dates back to when the ship was built.
Looks like an error on the plan.
Colin
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Cheers, Mark. No, that's not your crash helmet behind her, just my radio. 8)
I think I'll extend the sides a bit, Colin. She just doesn't look the same as the picture (126), does she ? I've also got one more porthole, so if I cover this one up, I can fill in the top to go back a bit more over the second porthole.
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Yes Ken, it's best to make the change even if it is a pain. Otherwise it will niggle away at you for everemore although nobody else will notice. Somehow that makes it worse! You'll be lying on your deathbed, family gathered all around to catch your last words - "I really wish I'd got the front bit right..." ::)
Lovely build though. Keep it coming.
Colin
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O0 8)
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I've been quiet for a few days as I have been working on this alteration.
Isn't it upsetting when you have to cut apart your work? I've removed the pointy bit and cleaned back the top deck line. The new section was made from plastic card, by gluing four sheets together and cutting to size. This assembly was repositioned and clamped in with epoxy resin and left to set. I've just removed the clamps and it looks much better today. Pictures to follow.
My new portholes have arrived. These will replace the ruined plastic ones and are made of brass and look very smart indeed. They come complete with window glass, so there's a saving on detail work. I shall be fitting them after the painting of the hull so as not to ruin the appearance.
I'm also re-working the paddle blades soon and have to select a suitable material. The recommendation was originally mahogany strips, but this was changed to plastic. I thought mine were a bit bulky, so were sanded down, and now are not wide (deep) enough.
Ideally, I would like brass sheet, which could be curved at the ends to make an effective drag. This might improve the pulling power at slow revs, so I'm off to the shops to see what's available.
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The new front piece has dried out nice and firm and was sanded down flat to the hull. The anchor chain holes were then reamed out to match each side. (128).
My word isn’t brass expensive!! Today I bought a piece to make the rudder with. (This piece was five times as long as I needed.) I’ve also obtained some pipes which fit snugly in each other, to be used for the rudder post and shaft.
I flattened one end and cut two pieces of sheet brass and curved them to fit around the flattened end of the tube. Holes were drilled and the insides edges were roughed up ready for the epoxy filling. It was then bolted and clamped together and left overnight to set. (129)
I then re sprayed the hull again in red oxide, so now I back to where I was a few days ago. (130)
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Very impressive work there Ken. I find myself a little worried about those portholes though. I know you have bought brass ones but how are you going to ensure they don't leak when finally inserted in the hull??
Barry
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Thank you for your comments, Barry.
I agree with you about this certainty, so have plans which will unfold as I progress. (means .... I don't know & can't be sure yet ) What I do know is that if you leave them out, the boat sinks.
ken (suffering from paint and glue fumes) {-)
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Tug---Kenny Hi there
Your build is coming along great. O0 O0
Just, food for thought; when you apply and fit your portlights - or portholes O0 Have you thought about painting the inside of the hull where the portholes are located, with a clear epoxy resin?
This will seal the portholes (portlights) and prevent any water intake. Just food for thought.
A thing to think about - is the actual glazing material of the portlight. Some plastics do not like polyesters - not many - but best check first.
aye
john
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Thank you John.
Yes, something will have to added inside, as you say. I will test a piece of the glazing and might try this method.
Cheers...ken
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Thank you for all your comments on my build. They are much appreciated, as I am learning as I go along, so please keep them coming in.
Reference the pointy bit on the bow, known as the Spirket plate, I awoke at 3 o’clock this morning and it hit me like a thunderbolt. After warming the tea pot and re looking at her pictures, I realised the shape was too high. The length was bound to be right as I had proportioned it from some pictures of the real ship. I also knew it didn’t look right, but ‘I couldn’t see what was wrong’. The new height was calculated at 22mm, which meant a bit of cutting in morning.
Bright and early next morning, I shuffled out to the workshop and lasered a new line across and cut off the top bit. I then filled the anchor hole and relocated it to deck level. (131). A bit of filler and a re spray and she now looks better. (132) especially when I laid the capping rail across it to line up with the stanchion height. I even put my little ‘Man’ behind the rail and his little elbows rested on the rail nice.
I’ve decided to stick with my original picture of 1975 and keep the 6 portholes as they do look the business.
It was then time to move to the stern for a bit of work. I drilled out the rudder hole for the outer brass tube and secured it in epoxy in a wood block. Turning her over I laid some more filler around the hull to build up a section to surround the new brass rudder. I’ve left this to dry overnight and will work it to shape and blend it to the hull to make a smooth flow for the water.
Hope I sleep better tonight.
Ken.
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Looks a lot better now Ken.
You get a good nights sleep O0
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Woodwork time
After a good nights sleep and not wanting to do anything too strenuous, today I opened the matchstick container and laid out a few for the construction of the seats. (138).This involved laying 4 match sticks out with a tiny gap between them onto some sticky tape, upside-down. Small cross members were then cut and super glued sideways across them. When dried they were sanded smooth along their edges and wood stained. Next time, I will stain the wood first because I found, that where there was glue, it would not stain very nice, and left white patches.
The rear support pieces were then sanded at an angle and butt joined together to cause a sloping back to the seats. The original ‘backs’ were removed with a chisel and these new sections were then glued to the seats, which already had strips glued across them, and the whole lot stained again. (139)
There is a long bench affair running down the sides of the rear cabin, which is attached the wall, so I’ve made 20 sets of what looks like ‘duck boards’. These will be attached to a runner stuck on the wall. (139)
I then had a go at making the single benches. I fret sawed the side pieces and sanded them to be the same size and stuck them upright to the bench with blue-tack. I then laid out the match sticks across the sides and glued together. When dry, the edges were sanded smooth and my little people came out to try them for size. (141) (142) (143). Only 10 more to make!! with the slats a little 'squarer' perhaps. ;)
While in matchstick mode, I thought I would fit some to the curved seat in front of the first cabin. Unfortunately, these curve all around so it was very tricky to bend them. I have gone for the wood slats to stick outwards in a semi circle and am waiting for it to dry before seeing how it looks. At the moment it looks like a sun dial, so I don’t know if I’ll get away with it.
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Hello again Kenny, yousay you moved the "anchor hole" to deck level - now there is an oval hole in the position you chose but this is for mooring lines. Waverley only has one anchor and it is on the starboard side just at the top of the black. If you look at www.river-clyde.org.uk/waverley.html there are some good pictures which should clarify what we're talking about. This River Clyde site is well worth a look as it has pictures of all types of vessels including tugs and puffers.
Best Wishes
Douglas
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Hi Westcoaster.
Yes, I meant the mooring line ports. :embarrassed:
Also, the anchor is on the Port side, as shown in your reference picture. I didn't know she only had One anchor. (anyone want to buy a scale 1/48 anchor?) ;)
ken
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Hello Kenny, How embarrassed am I at quoting you the wrong side for the anchor. I hope the pictures on the River Clyde website will be helpful to you
Best Wishes
Douglas
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Fitting out
The problem of the Paddle wheels has been solved. I am able to keep the shaft as one complete piece now. I realised the wheels were only 3mm larger than the boxes, so have cut the inside rim of the boxes back by this amount, and now the wheels slide on quite easily. The outside covers are unaffected by this and lay beautifully across.
I have rebuilt the wheels with brass blades, which are now a little larger than before. The nuts and 2mm bolts have been sanded flat, and secured with ‘loc tight’ (143)
I’ve finally got to look inside the hull. What a big space to work in. I’m leaving the deck fitting until last, so this time I can plan and place the working parts inside so that the will be easily accessible.
Wooden frames were constructed and cut to fit the curvature of the hull, and then epoxied into place overnight. The rudder and linkages were then secured and connected up using brass plates and screws. I have kept the arm and linkages short to cut out the wobbles and inaccuracies when steering her. (144) (145).
I then painted the assembly in Gold to keep the water out, and also make it easier to see when enclosed by the deck. This area will be accessible through the hatch cover above, should any further maintenance be required.
The main drive motor was then lined up, with the drive wheels placed temporarily in position. As there was no securing holes or screws on them, I had to drill out these wheels with a 2mm hole, which proved to be very hard steel, and consequently broke several drills and also wandered off line, which ruined one of the wheels. A new one was ordered and this held me up for a few days, but all is well. (146)
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The motor has finally been mounted into a box of rubber. At the moment, I am using rubber bands to hold it in place, but hope to go for a type of rubber clip. The drive belt has been changed for a shorter one to eliminate the tension wheel system recently built, so this involved moving the motor nearer the shaft. I am leaving it pending at the moment as it’s taken a lot of my time and thoughts and I wanted to get on with another section. (148).
I have finished the new paddle blades and secured it all with Loc tight. (147) and the next project involved fitting the bearings for the feathering wheels. To this end I have fitted 5mm box brass strip across them and secured it to wooden blocks inside the cover. This will make removing the wheels a lot easier, should the need arise. (149)
The rear cabin was then covered in thin strips of mahogany, to simulate wood planking, and to make the window openings all parallel and inline. The roof was sanded down, as I didn’t like the finish. I then re stained with a lighter pine colour. It’s come out a little blotchy so further thoughts are need here. I may have to plank it with real wood strips if I’ve got the time.
I then moved on to the fun side of the build by fitting sliding doors to the rear cabin. Pictures (150) (151) shows them open and closed.
Picture 147 also shows my new stand for her. The mouse mat in the centre was purchased off Ebay and glued into position.
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Coming along beautifully Ken. Keep posting!
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Looking good Ken O0
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Thank you Colin, and DickyD.
This is turning into a labour of love. At every turn, there is something to make. The costs are being monitored by SWMBO and at present, we are up to £712. Yes, this is correct. What a financial nightmare.
We are nowhere near getting her wet, but crawling along at a steady pace. The rest of the portholes are on back order. My fault for choosing a foreign manufacturer, eh!!
Today I have before me, the cutting of hundreds of slats for the garden seats on the top deck. Yesterday, I tried making a guillotine, but failed miserably. The missus suggested scissors, so lets get stuck in.
The 'L' on my keyboard has now started fai!ing and requires hitting hard so !ets get on with something usefu!!
ken
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Superb Kenny,
It is those repetitive jobs that sort the men from the boys. Your patience is admirable amigo.
Barry
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Today was very productive. First we cut up some chair side pieces and filled them with matchsticks. (152) (153). When the glue dries, we will sand them smooth and finish off the edges.
The life saver raft seats were sprayed dark brown and ten holes were drilled around the side ready for the 200 life rings to be fitted. These rings were made of copper wire, all hand made to shape as per the pie in the box. (154) (155).
That was 11 hour’s which passed quite quick. Mind you, the sun came out for one of them, so I sat out in it, to get a tan!!! Might have tomorrow off, if this weather keeps up.
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Sat in the sun!!!!!!!Kenny, you want to try it here.....Too damned hot....In the workroom the temperature in the afternoon sores to over 100 degrees F. Too hot to work in........Not funny......
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Hi Barry
On!y seen the sun once this week, so far, so had to take advantage eh ;)
I was wondering what that sort of heat does to plastic models ? Does it bend the shapes and do they recover ? I always move mine from the sun when I'm at shows because of this fear.
I'm off work today as it seems the grass and hedges need cutting. ::) then it's off to the computer shop to get a new keyboard. I've run out of the letter e!! ( the one between K & M ) {-) It made a crunching noise and now doesn't work at a!!.
ken
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I'm off work today as it seems the grass and hedges need cutting. ::) then it's off to the computer shop to get a new keyboard. I've run out of the letter e!! ( the one between K & M ) {-) It made a crunching noise and now doesn't work at a!!.
ken
What sort of keyboard is that Ken. There is no letter between K and M on mine and the E is miles away. ? :-\
Seats look great by the way. O0
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Hi Ken,
The sun, particularly when it is this hot can play havos with plastic, but only after prolonged exposure. It actually corrodes many types of plastic so it crumbles away. Short periods don't seem to bother it too much though. I have never had a problem, but then I do try to stay shaded if possible.. O0
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So what bits of you are made of plastic Barry ? :-\
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So what bits of you are made of plastic Barry ? :-\
Excellent Richard......You spotted the deliberate mistak.. >:(
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To much time, to little to do Barry :(
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Thanks for that, Barry. I wondered whether the plastic would buckle and go out of shape permanently. best not to overdo the heat anyway Hmmm!!
I've got my keyboard and it feels great. All the L's I could have wished for . {-). This was the missing letter, Dicky. The nearest shape I could find was a !. ;)
No construction today as the south lawns took longer than I thought. Must be getting old. Well I'm off to a two day boating day at Brynbach Park open day, in the Valleys for the weekend, so a lot of sitting around watching the 'stock' Hmmmm, sounds great.
ken
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Thanks for the pictures of the seats, Mick. What super detail.
I plan to use white 'rope' between the eyelets, but looking at your picture they seem a little large in diameter. Also, I have used too dark a Brown for the colour, so it's off to the shop for a lighter version and do it all again.
I am not pleased with the cabin construction. I was compounding the errors by trying to improve on a bad design. To this end I have started building 'Both' new cabins from thinner plywood. I must say that it's coming out better than expected, and I'm all fired up with enthusiasm again. (156) (157) (158)
I spent 10 hours yesterday cutting all the square windows and doors out, and have stained the timber 'Before' gluing it together this time, and, although I say it myself, it's beginning to look the part, Yippee !!. I might even scribe the black lines around the doors, just like your picture. How far, is going too far?? Because of the scale, I have already reduced the number of planks on the seats. I don't want to get too bogged down with the tiny details, because I'm running out of sailing time.
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Good move Ken, looks a lot better. O0
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Thanks Dicky. You know when something ain't right. It was eating into me, as I was compounding the errors with the old frame.
The white cabin shown is also ditched, as I've found out it's actually the wrong size. ooh er!!
What a learning curve I'm going through. ;)
ken
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hi ken . she looking great. you must have the payschents of a saint. Any way last summer I went up the tower near the scc in Glasgow . I found a few photo of Waverley. hope there of some use to you.
john
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last 2
john
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Thank you, John.
Their great as I do not have any reference points in 3D like that. Wonderful, as it shows the missing link between plan and elevation.
Today I sanded all the bench seats square and rounded off the edges. I've tried wood stain, but as you can see, the glue shows through. (160)
I'm not too concerned here as I shall be spraying them the same colour brown as the other seats, when I get some more paint.
The rest of the windows were cut out and now the blood has stopped coming out of my thumb, I've started gluing them to the roofs (decks). I do like a bit of pressure on the joints. (161) ( scheesh, those Stanley blades are bl***y sharp) Yes, that's how I cut out the windows in 2mm plywood. It gives such a lovely edge that doesn't need any filing to shape, but comes out right first time. Two of the windows are only 10mm square and require a steady hand. I think this is where I went wrong. ::)
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Davits Time
On with a bit of scratch building now as it’s time to make some Davits.
First of all I had to look up all my Waverley pictures to find some details. Out with the magnifying glass and make a few sketches.
I determined to follow the look as far as possible, so started cutting some plastic card.
The first job was to get the curve and thickness correct; the first one took about 3 hours before I came up with a suitable shape. It was then a case of marking and cutting out the other 8 side pieces to match. The sanding machine was too severe for this as it was melting the edges, so they all had to be hand shaped to match.
(162)
These were then sandwiched between a centre pieces to look like an RSJ girder, and glued down. (163). When dry, I made the support brackets for the hydraulic ramps and attached them as shown. (164)
I was quite pleased with the result and sat back with my cup of tea and realised there should be 2 more sets of these for my version of the boat. Ooh err!!, another 8 side pieces to cut and shape.
I then spent the rest of the day finding the matching pieces of plastic before making two more sets from scratch. Hey ho, it’s a lonely life out in the shed. This is as far I have reached before calling it a day. (165)
Tomorrow, I have to trim the edges a bit smarter and clean up the joints before painting them back white again.
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Davits are excellent Kenny
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Oh yes! very nice indeed. Well done Ken.
Colin
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Thank you Tiger & Colin, I'm really trying with this model.
I think I've captured the essence of the shape. I did glue them on a card to keep them in relation to position, and make them easier to work on. I plan to colour the card to match the deck when fitted.
ken
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Painting day
First we sprayed the Davits with 3 coats of red oxide undercoat. (169) and because it was a sunny warm day, this dried quite quickly, so we were able to apply the top coats of white. (170)
The chairs were sanded smooth and had their final coat of the lighter brown. (166)
The cabins have been glued together and clamped to allow setting overnight, as there is a curve in the walkways. (167)
We have found a suitable stairway, which was not wide enough, so two were cut and joined together. This has been sprayed to match and placed in position to get a perspective of how it will look. We shall need to cut the roof to allow it to fit nicely, so we don’t want any mistakes. (168)
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Very nice Ken, now you know how Henry Ford felt with the model T production line.
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Wasn't he able to tell people what he wanted made ? ;) ;D
ken
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Dry Run Fitting
As I was being overrun with semi constructed bits for her, I thought I would place them all in position to get an overview.
I tried a dry run of fitting some of the parts to the model to see what she looks like. I am now getting exited, as she is looking the ‘Biz’, as they say. (171 to 174)
Here are the pictures so far. I welcome any comments before they are secured later, as today the day for deck fixing down. I always regard this section as burning your bridges, as once it’s done you are committed to keyhole surgery for ever.
Before securing the deck, I have to run the wiring inside the roof for various sections, and also fix down the R/X and other controls so that they will be accessible through the deck holes.
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Some more views
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You been up all night Ken ?
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;) ;D
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Paint time
First, the lights have been wired in and glued tidy, up under the deck and tested (180)
It’s out with the paint cans this week. First coat was the lightest colour which is white. I applied several coats to cover the complete hull as I do like a smooth finish.
Then it was time for masking off to get the water line in place. I hate this job as the line always seems to in the wrong place and I do suffer from bleed through. This time I tried engineers electrical tape followed up by masking tape on top with newspaper to cover the rest. (181) the black was then applied to the lower section.
As you can see, the line does not appear to be straight, (182) (183), so it was re masked and done again. (184) I’ve placed some of the modules on the ship to get another perspective.
While the paint was drying, I got on with making the tarpaulin covered boxes which sit on the paddle boxes. (What ever do they keep under here eh?) (179).
This brings me to the holes I cut in the paddle box tops for the ladders. I notice that after I’d cut them, that they are only in the rear sections. These boxes will now have to cover the front holes and will cover my mistake lovely.
It’s then on to the electronic controls. I followed my usual pattern of placing them all together on a board to make lakeside repair easier by making the board slid out from under the first deck for access. (185)
The controls sited are as follows.
1. Motor speed controller
2. Two way electronic switcher for the lights and the sound/smoke generator
3. JJC smoke generator
4. JJC Waverley engine sound
5. 6 channel receiver from Futaba, sited farthest from spark creating modules
6. Fuse bank for all supplies.
7. Separate set of control switches fitted to stern to control the master on/off for easy lakeside use
8. Override switch to allow light to be used without the R/C being on
The painting is not yet finished, as there is a third colour of red to go below the black, so it’s off to the shop again. I am keeping a log of the costs, so far, but I fear to tell you how much we are up to.
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Coming on nicely Ken, Though your electrics are way to neat you know. ;)
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Hi Richard.
Thanks for your comments. I am trying to make it pleasing on the eye, as I'm designing her for looks. The sailing abilities will probably be out of the window in anything rougher than a bath tub. ;D
I've ordered the tug Imara so it will be back to tugging for the winter. SWMBO wasn't best pleased with a £450 boat coming in, so I'll have to slow down a bit. ::)
Mind you, this un!! is costing a fortune. All scratch built and loads of little spares from the model shop every week. My log of costs is phenomenal. :o
ken
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Kenny,
You bring a little sanity to the mad world. ovely job and those electrics as Richard says are far too neat!!!!
So you are going to build the Imara :( :(. Always wanted to do that as at the time it was designed by Frank Hinchliffe, we were quite good friends. He showed me the workshop where the model was to be produced, before he sold the complany that was. It is a beautiful model and with your eye for detail, I look forward to seeing the build log.......(Note assumption you will be doing one ha ha).
Barry
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Are you sure you want another log, Barry.?? ::)
Yes, I considered the Imara as a beautifully detailed boat. I really didn't know that Frank designed her. I loved his Boston Trawler, so it all ties in with attention to detail. Should be fun to do as some write ups warn of several sticking points. As you know, I'm an avid collector of details before I start a project, although the execution might be rubbish, the thoughts of great things drives me on. ;)
I've made a list of further work to do on the Waverley and it's very worrying. I wonder if I'll ever finish her. I have to make the masts and radar soon, without detailed drawings, so any close up pictures would be nice, ladies and gentlemen. :)
ken
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Ken,
I have booked myself a day on board Waverley on 25th September. leaving Portsmouth at 10:00, calling at Yarmouth and then through the Needles and along the Dorset coast to Lulworth Cove, returning to Portsmouth at 20:00. A long day but it should be a good one. If there is anything you'd like me to photograph for you, just shout.
Regarding Imara, i did the original Model Boats kit review. I've got a scanned copy I could send you if you want. There were a few things to look out for on the original kit and I rather suspect it hasn't changed all that much since then.
Colin
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Hi Colin
Yes ...... It was your article that I fell in love with ... (arrangements have been made for you to meet SWMBO !! who wants a word) ;)
I do have the original magazines stored ready and have taken notes of the deck problems and lining up of the pieces. If you have any further notes that you think I should know about, then perhaps you could mail me off line, when I start production.
Mind you, this is good service before the craft has even arrived. Thanks again and watch the 'Pigs ear' blog, when it starts. ::)
Once again, thank you.
cheers ...Ken
Regarding the Waverley, I wish I was coming with you. I shall down in Poole on the 27th, which means I'll miss her.
If you can take as many photos as you can afford, then I will compensate you for your trouble. She is not appearing here in the Severn channel this year as the Balmoral is taking her place.
The type of scene I require is close ups of major fittings and how it all ties together. Minute details are not really needed on the model, but things that can be manufactured to enhance her looks would be great (positions of boxes/ containers/door handles and deck clutter). I have a copy of the 3D film from the 'Net' which tours around the ship, but believe or not, some sections are still not covered.
ken
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Hy Ken,
Been watching your build with interest mate, very,,, very nice, have,nt called over as did,nt want to srop you working. >>:-(
RE the IMARA,, I can put mine in the car and bring it over to show you if you want, mind you it's a heavy old boat.
Bosun
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Kenny
Are you going to the Paddler Day at Darlington? I gave Eddy a copy of a GA drawing of Waverley as at 1982 re-fit to sell, raffle or otherwise dispose of in aid of the Medway Queen. Can't remember what detail it had, but might be of use.
Barrie
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Ken,
I shall be taking a lot of pics anyway. You are welcome to whatever I get!
Colin
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Hy Ken,
Been watching your build with interest mate, very,,, very nice, have,nt called over as did,nt want to srop you working. >>:-(
RE the IMARA,, I can put mine in the car and bring it over to show you if you want, mind you it's a heavy old boat.
Bosun
Hi Bosun
Come on down ............................ please. O0 Kettle on
ken
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Kenny
Are you going to the Paddler Day at Darlington? I gave Eddy a copy of a GA drawing of Waverley as at 1982 re-fit to sell, raffle or otherwise dispose of in aid of the Medway Queen. Can't remember what detail it had, but might be of use.
Barrie
Hi Barrie
Was hoping to go myself as I'm in Paddleducks club. Unfortunately it's a long way but here's hoping. Thanks for the info. I'm doing the "75 version and have drawings but not details, hence my constant requests for intimate details. A really enjoyable challenge, trying to get her right. O0
ken
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Ken,
I shall be taking a lot of pics anyway. You are welcome to whatever I get!
Colin
Hi Colin
Your very kind. Probably won't have a completed model for the Paddleducks 'do', but working a speed now. 8)
Just noticed this morning that she was put on her stand last night when the paint was still soft. Has this happened to anyone else. I have a lovely indentation around the " sump area" :embarrassed:
More haste .... less speed, eh!!!
ken
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Trial fit of upper deck modules
Today I started on the mast and fitted all the parts temporarily to get an overall picture (again). Didn’t get much work done as I was filming progress so far and didn’t want to remove it all yet.
I shall be smoothing down the paintwork and applying finishing touches, as I notice the painting is not as precise as I would have liked.
Here are some snaps of the attachments so far and when the portholes are fitted I can start securing down the deck. (186) (187) (188) (189)
I would appreciate your comments as to positions and fittings please.
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hi ken,
i know im not the most experianced, but it looks excellent if you ask me, i cant wait to see it on the water. are you goin to bring her on sunday?
cheers, dan
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Hi Dan
Still working on the paintwork. :( I've rubbed it all down with fine grit again and will respray her all over. I was never that pleased with the last result and am learning to improve all the time.
It's funny .... the difference between the dream and actually doing it right. I suppose it will never 100% but one must learn when to accept that.
ken
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Terrific job Kenny, it really taking shape now O0
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Thanks. Phil. It's turning into a million jobs. ;)
Modifications started.
Today I completed the rub down and smoothed the surface. (192) (193)
It was then off to Halfords again, for some more tins of paint. We now have a new stock of Red, Black, & White. The Sun then came out for the first time in a week, so it was out in garden and start the spray process. It’s looking better already and I’m quite pleased. Pictures to follow.
While the paint was drying I tarted up the deck fittings (194) and got on with inventing the radar drive system.
To this end, I have purchased a rotating party light from the ‘Pound store’ and torn it apart for the gear mechanism. (195)
This little device has a 3 volt motor and a few gears and rotates at a very realistic speed for a radome. I have glued in some blocks to support it under the cabin roof and left then drying for the night. We’ll try it out in the morning.
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Hi Ken just remeber all radars should run at around 25rpm,package on it's way
dave
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I thought that X band and Y band ran at different speeds.?
Could be wrong though
R,
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Hy Guys.
I bought the same little disco light thingy that Ken has after he told me about them, checked it out this morning and it does 18 RPM, maybe not exactly scale, but not spinning like a top either. For a £1 you cant fault it really.
Bosun
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Hi Ken just remember all radars should run at around 25rpm,package on it's way
dave
Hi Dave.
I have fitted it in the front cabin and stuck a bit of tape on the bar to see it going around. Looks fantastic, as I've never had a Radar before. I can make it go around any way, so which is the recommended way, please.
I let you know when the parts arrive. cheers ken
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Hy Guys.
I bought the same little disco light thingy that Ken has after he told me about them, checked it out this morning and it does 18 RPM, maybe not exactly scale, but not spinning like a top either. For a £1 you cant fault it really.
Bosun
Hi Bosun
I have built a voltage reduction circuit and can feed just over 3 volts to it, which speeds it up a bit. (I like to keep the boat's power supply at 12 volts). Mind you, the motor is an unknown quality, so it might burn out. I've got two more for a pound each, so it's worth the gamble. ;) It took 4.5 volts OK, but I reduced it for safety. 8)
Here are some pictures of the installation. I've severely cut back the excess plastic and acquired a smaller footprint. I then ran a bar up through the housing and and now need detailed drawings of the dome itself. ;) .... anybody ??
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Did a bit more painting today. After looking at the disappointment of the sanded boat, I must admit she's looking better with her livery on. Just the Black band around the middle to go.
A challenge, even for Stavros. I have to mask top and bottom of the bands limit before spraying. Not one, but two edges to worry about. I couldn't work my way down the paint system because I would have had to cover black with red, and it would have shown a bit darker. I shall wait a few days for the paint to harden off, to prevent it pulling off with the masking tape. Wish me luck. I'm having Sunday off as it's Cwmbran Modelers Open day and I'm on the stand.
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From what I can remember when I saw the fine vessel she has a standard radar scanner bar the sort you could get from most model shops, then cut down to the required size you want
R,
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From what I can remember when I saw the fine vessel she has a standard radar scanner bar the sort you could get from most model shops, then cut down to the required size you want
R,
My, that was quick. Thank you, R.
I was looking in my magazines, but their pictures are so small, they just look like a square bar. I need something that looks the 'Biz', as they say.
Mind you, how to attach it is the next problem. I want it to be removable. ;D
ken
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Easy peasy All my radar scanners are removable.
I get a standard scanner and then where the spigot to locate into the radar unit (box) is I remove with a knife then make a small hole
While your radar drive is turning hold the scanner bar on top so that the shaft enters the small hole and "drills its own way into the soft plastic (gentle pressure required)
When enough depth (or fully through) stop and adjust if there is any "run out"
If you want to remove = run scanner drive and pull gently
works for me but I use micro servos in my drives so I have quite a strong drive motor and like you I use a voltage control board to get the desired speeds.
R,
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Brilliant. There was me, thinking of tiny screws , or something similar. ::)
ken
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Hull Paint finished
Yippee!! We’ve got there in the end. The tape came off and didn’t pull any paint, and it’s come out with the best finish I could have wished for. I’m really pleased with surface now. Perhaps I can get on with those portholes at last. Only 80 windows to go. ::)
Here are the latest pictures, which includes my Radar unit, which works a treat. (199) (200) (201)
I’ve taken movies to add to the You-Tube film that I’m making, but haven’t posted these yet.
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See Ken trust your uncle Stav and believe in him and guess what it WORKS looking good O0
Stavros
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Hi Stav,
A compliment from you is a compliment indeed. Thank you very much for your advise, which I've followed to good effect. A very happy chappie here.
Spent the day at the lake away from building and already I'm looking forward to fitting your Air Vents. Sad or what. 8)
ken
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A cracker Ken.....nuff said...
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Thank you Barrie. It's starting to get intricate now, so I'm slowing down a bit.
Windows time
Today I fitted the portholes around the sides of the ship. (202) (203).The insides were glazed to the hull for water integrity, even though the portholes had their own glass, these were done as well. I used strips of clear plastic in sheet form and to completely seal the edges, I shall epoxy around the edge when that lot is dry.
I then settled down with a cup of tea and the radio and fitted all the lifelines to the bench seats. A long job and slightly boring, but the effect seems worth it. (204). I shall tidy up the loose ends when that glue is also dry.
I then set about glazing the cabins. These were fitted out with square windows along the sides, and frames are being fitted around the front curves. I shall now be picking superglue from my fingers all night!! (205)
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Ken, have you jinxed the ship? Apparently it took a chunk out of Worthing pier yesterday! http://www.worthingherald.co.uk/worthing/It39s-not-all-aboard-as.4494625.jp
Somebody else told me it took a bite out of Ryde pier too.
Hope there's still something left for me next week....
Colin
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It wasn't Ryde pier it was the newly renovated Yarmouth pier (now shut) and then Worthing pier, all in the same day. ::)
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I have heard she's difficult to manoeuvre. Imagine the problems I'm going to have when I ever get to the water (with my record!!) 8)
Being the most photographed ship in history, there will always be someone ready to snap her in her most awkward position, I suppose.
ken
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I have heard she's difficult to manoeuvre. Imagine the problems I'm going to have when I ever get to the water (with my record!!) 8)
Being the most photographed ship in history, there will always be someone ready to snap her in her most awkward position, I suppose.
ken
The version I heard was that it was a structural failure of the pier, not Waverley ramming into it....
Regards
Eddy
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There you go ..... People see the ship .......... People film the ship ......... People jump to conclusions. ::)
You should be alright, Colin. She's made of sterner stuff. I know, cuz I've studied the drawings.
ken
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Definitely rammed Yarmouth pier. Said it hit Worthing pier on the news.
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You aren't aboard Ken are you.... ::)
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Now Now ............ :angel:
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Today I thought I would make dome Air vents. First I cut blocks of wood for the tops and fitted them with some dowel rod. (206) When the glue dried, I turned the square pieces to a round shape, on a sanding belt and finished off with a file and sandpaper. I then drilled out the top holes to act as recesses. (207) and the 6 were then sprayed with primer and left overnight.
Having nothing better to make or do, I decided to commit and start gluing the seats to the cabin roof. I also cut the Davits from their frames and glued these to the roofs as well. (208) (209)
Going by your pictures, I have made the inserts for the funnels and sprayed them black. These are different for each funnel, so were glued in their correct positions. The picture was black on black and didn’t show this feature very well, so I have altered the contrast to make it show up better. (210)
A loudspeaker has been fitted to the underside of the front funnel for my sound machine, and a suitable baffle box was fitted to the back of it, to project the sound upwards through the funnel.
I notice that the Perspex fitted inside to the fibreglass hull was starting to come adrift. I shall be applying P38 filler around the edges to seal it back in. Gotta keep the water out somehow !!
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The primer is now dry on the air vents (211) so they were sprayed a bronze colour and put aside to dry.
We decided to commit ourselves and finally glued down the deck (212) with epoxy resin. The gaps were filled later in the evening with P38.
Today was spent cutting the deck planking boards and fitting them to the boat. This took a lot of time and a lot of off cuts resulted!! All funny shapes left over, full of curves and angle cuts. (213).The finished result has transformed her and another mini movie was made. I forgot to take a few ‘still’ photos, so I’ll add them tomorrow.
We then decided to complete the upper cabin lighting systems and here is a start. (214)
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The deck planking came out well, so it was decided to proceed with fitting the extras on top. (215) (216)
First we glued the inflatable seating all around the place, as per photos in our collection. Next to be fitted were the air vents and anchor winch.
The platforms above the paddle boxes were then lined up and support rods were cut and partially glued to them. They will be lined up and cut to height as the next job.
A new rear hatch cover was then made to replace the old one, which was a bit high and also dark in colour. (217) a clip arrangement was made to locate and hold the piece in place. Although not quite waterproof, it’s not really intended for the high seas. We have yet to populate it with the spare steering mechanism and pipes and boxes.
Further movie clips were taken, plus a few stills.
As we are leaving the build for then next two weeks or so, it was decided to place all the bits on the boat to encourage us to finish her off, on our return. (218)
I'll shall have my laptop with me, so if you want a chat, I'll be here.
ken
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Kenny,
She really is looking the part now and done so quickly too. Not long now before her maiden voyage!!
Barry
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Dear Ken Hi there
How can I put this one - but - yesterday I ventured into the dark corners of the loft - where I store a good lot of plans. I was looking for a particular plan which I had received from Shipmate60 - what plan did I discover - its the Marine Modelling Plan - 2 sheets of The Waverley - yes the Paddlesteamer! On the plans there are suggested motor, gearbox, drives - you name it - it is all on the Plans. If you need them you know where they are - I will send you them if you let me know. Bit late now, I am so sorry. Senior moments ya nar.....
aye
John
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Kenny,
She really is looking the part now and done so quickly too. Not long now before her maiden voyage!!
Barry
Thanks Barry, it does seem to be motoring now. Who forgot the railings. :embarrassed: Today was spent with a bit of quiet painting and touching up. Amazing how you can scratch it by turning it around on the table. ::)
Oh well, it'll have to wait until I get back from the holiday.
ken
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I was looking for a particular plan which I had received from Shipmate60 - what plan did I discover - its the Marine Modelling Plan - 2 sheets of The Waverley - yes the Paddlesteamer! On the plans there are suggested motor, gearbox, drives - you name it - it is all on the Plans. If you need them you know where they are - I will send you them if you let me know.
John
Thanks for thinking of me, John. Yes please. I would indeed like them. I can get them copied and return them to you, when I return from holiday.
What a club, this is. All the help a chap could ask for. I'm very grateful.
Cheers
Ken
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Today I thought I would make dome Air vents. First I cut blocks of wood for the tops and fitted them with some dowel rod. (206) When the glue dried, I turned the square pieces to a round shape, on a sanding belt and finished off with a file and sandpaper. I then drilled out the top holes to act as recesses. (207) and the 6 were then sprayed with primer and left overnight.
Having nothing better to make or do, I decided to commit and start gluing the seats to the cabin roof. I also cut the Davits from their frames and glued these to the roofs as well. (208) (209)
Going by your pictures, I have made the inserts for the funnels and sprayed them black. These are different for each funnel, so were glued in their correct positions. The picture was black on black and didn’t show this feature very well, so I have altered the contrast to make it show up better. (210)
A loudspeaker has been fitted to the underside of the front funnel for my sound machine, and a suitable baffle box was fitted to the back of it, to project the sound upwards through the funnel.
I notice that the Perspex fitted inside to the fibreglass hull was starting to come adrift. I shall be applying P38 filler around the edges to seal it back in. Gotta keep the water out somehow !!
Looking at the pics of your ventilators I couldn't help but think back and recall that making the things in just the same way as you have done gave me the notion of making a little vac-form machine that gives better results than just carving the things out of wood. Engine Room vents due to their size can make or break a model....and yours would benefit most handsomely by having vac formed units.
I'm sure that I have explained the process and simplicity on an earlier post, but I can always post it again if there is enough interest. BY.
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Hi Brian
Yes, they are a bit of smile aren't they.
I've decided not to use them as they are totally wrong. I have purchased some commercial ones that look close enough to the real thing, so have fitted these now.
I am interested in your 'Vac' forming idea. Could have done with that for some of the other items. (chairs maybee?) I am going ahead with the inside furniture, which will show when the cabin is removed. Tables and loungers, etc. Glutton for punishment, me. (man with time on hands!)
Build continues after holiday. Must get away for a break.
ken
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have a good holiday O0
Phil
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Back from the holidays and straight into the workshop. I’ve been working on the little detailed parts, so have not had anything to show lately.
I have repainted the cabins to a darker brown of my own mixture. This came out rather well, as it tended to cover the small imperfections that were beginning to creep in to the build.
I have re sprayed the lifeboats (again) as, during my break, the wood stain was leeching through the previous white coat and looking awful. Tip of the day…don’t paint on top of wood stain.
I have completed the moving radar unit. This was done with a miniature servo with the insides cut out. The reduction gearing was connected up and it rotated a bit fast, so I made a 2.8 volt speed control to slow it down to the correct speed. This saves adding silly little batteries, and can be run directly off the main 12 volt system.
All the air vents were painted brown and attached to the decking, and I even painted the inside edge red for effect.
The life rafts were sprayed and will be fitted later. I’m now working in the sliding doors as there are six of these to be glazed and fitted with tiny handles.
I have the latest pictures below, (219 to 225), along with a Youtube Video of her sitting on our dustbin in the garden. This shows the latest stage of the build and promises completion by Christmas. (must do something about that paint bleeding !!)
http://ca.youtube.com/watch?v=Ly6FOqISXtU
Onwards and upwards
ken
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Hy Ken
Hope you had a good holiday, the boat is looking good, will have to call over and have a look.
PS... I have just ordered the Englishman from Model SlipwaY... will have to do a build log when I start it, glutton for punishment me.
Bosun
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Lovely stuff Ken! Just like being there.
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Thanks guys. I think we are over the worst now !!
One quick question. I shall try her in the water soon, so I've arranged the batteries as 3 of, 12 volt, 7 amp/hour, and laid them out into containers (restrainers in the event of collision?).
Am I correct in assuming the boat will balance at exactly the centre point of the paddle wheels? I placed her on a tube at this point and re arranged the batteries so that she balanced evenly.
Today I shall be fitting the sliding doors. Gotta make her like the real one. Doors to slide forehead in the event of a sudden stop. I seem to have accident prevention on my mind. Probably due to the costs involved so far !!
ken
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Today I assembled the MMB smoke machine to some additional piping and fired her up. (226)
I then placed on the funnels to see what the effect might be. (227)
The whole assembly was then fitted into the boat and another piece of the movie was made. (228)
The life raft assemblies were then attached to the deck, along with the green covered boxes. (I still don’t know what’s in them ?) (229)
I’ve noticed the exit doors on the waterline by the paddles were not painted on the lower section to match the hull black, so this was put right. I’ve also removed the lifebelts as this didn’t look right.
There is now no excuse for not starting the stanchions, so here we go………
But first we shall attempt the gangways.
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hi Kenny .I was up in the Glasgow transport museum and saw a nice model of Waverley so i took some photos for you. Sorry about the quality put the lighting was terrible and the green cloth the models were on did not help.
john
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Thank you for the pictures, John. Most helpful. Every model I see, has variations, albeit, tiny. It's amazing how she can differ during her life.
I shall be incorporating some of the parts that I have seen and enhancer her a bit more.
Cheers...Ken
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no worries Kenny . I would have got some photos of the real one by the science museum on the Clyde ,but he rain was going horizontal so no chances of any out door photos.
PS your model is looking real good starting to take shape now.
john
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If you are going down, could you 'snap' the wheelhouse roof please. It seems to be a mixture of objects that I would like to get right.
I've got the radar and the box behind and the stubby mast with light, but there seems to be other items cluttered around that I can't make out. :-))
Cheers...ken
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Lifeboats
I have gone with grey rope in the end, as other colours look a bit garish. (232) I have glued the rope in place and it has, unfortunately, damaged some of the paintwork. I then had to repair this and its come out reasonably well.
I then got on with making three gangways. I have used plastic tubes and angles and fitted tiny stepping bars made from matchsticks. Two are 17mm wide and one is wider, for wheelchairs. I had thought about making a wheelchair but decided that life was too short. (230) (231)
I don't know yet whether to paint this structure or leave it 'as is' because it doesn't look too bad in white.
I had half a day today as it was getting quite cold out in the shed.
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you want to get a heater in your shed ken like i have, then you can carry on working all day :-))
ive been away for a while and just caught up on your progress and it realy does look fantastic! How long will it be until i see it on the lake %)
cheers, dan
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Hi Dan
Hopefully before Christmas. Fitted the mast today and now she's looking like a boat.
The girl fell off the walkway and I accidently stood on her and broke her arms and legs. Not an omen, I hope. ;)
ken
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We are now on to the upper boat deck supports. 32 pieces of 5mm dowel have been cut and painted and are now ready for fitting. (237)
Holes have been drilled into the deck, (4.8mm) and the dowels hammered into place, so that the cabin roof just rests on the top of the pillars. (238)
This was also done for the front cabin and the whole lot were levelled off, so that the cabins rested flat on the deck supports. The cabins can be removed for maintenance, leaving the supports quite firmly upright in the deck. (239) (240)
The Front mast was glued into place with a securing block underneath and inclined to the correct angle. The rear mast was also fitted to the cabin roof with its block secured underneath.
The gangways have been painted a light grey with the duck boards painted brown. I have some fishing net in mind for the sides, when it’s all dry,
I then set about making the mast bands from copper strip and drilling out the tiny holes for the mast support wires.
The deck edging was repainted white, to cover the scratches and dings from the build, and now I have no excuse for not fitting the stanchions.
As an after thought, I have been marking the planking with a pen to simulate the joins.
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Stanchions & Railings
We finally reach the fitting of the stanchions. I was dreading this moment as they are quite tiny affairs. The stanchions are the three-hole type with a handrail to be fitted at the top.
I drilled out their positions with a 0.7mm drill, all along the deck by following a jig, to ensure every one was the same distance apart. Two drill later!! I had completed the task.
The stanchions were then fitted in the holes and super-glued overnight. Today I threaded the fine wire through all the holes and have left it like that whilst my eyes recover. (241) (243)
You will notice that the wire is covered in a green finish, so this will mean I have to paint them white, when finished. This is not my favourite job, as mistakes can happen and spoilt the overall effect. I shall do my best with masking and hope it doesn’t drip too much.
While I was looking at her during one of my many tea breaks, I realised the upright pillars to the upper decks were too thick, at 5mm. These were then cut off at deck level and 3mm holes drilled into the bases. New pillars were then inserted in their place and cut level at the tops to accommodate the floors of the upper decks. (232)
During the intricate messing about, I managed to snap the main mast and damage the wiring the mast light, so it was back to the wood shop to make another. This was turned and sanded to a taper and a groove was cut into the shaft for the wires. A new LED was wired into the top and wires run to the base. The mast was painted and left to dry overnight. This was refitted to the deck and actually looks better than the old one ?
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Kenny,
Coming on a treat now amigo. I have a roll of that grren covered wire, very fine and perfect for staunchions. That said, I cannot remember where this wire originates or what it's true purpose is. Any ideas?
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Hi Barry
Cake decoration wire or even garden wire is covered in green
Dave
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Tug Kenny:
Absolutely Magnificent.....
Congratulation on a beautiful job.
Tim
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Kenny,
Coming on a treat now amigo. I have a roll of that grren covered wire, very fine and perfect for staunchions. That said, I cannot remember where this wire originates or what it's true purpose is. Any ideas?
Yes, Dave is right. I got mine from the hobby shop. It's sold as wire wrap for flowers and is only 0.5.. diameter. It's quite sturdy stuff, but will take bending and re straightening very well.
You get quite a lot in the packet as well. I wish I could remember the price, but it wasn't that expensive.
Thanks for the compliments. I hope to 'water test' her within the week.
ken
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Tug Kenny:
Absolutely Magnificent.....
Congratulation on a beautiful job.
Tim
Thanks Tim. I'm beginning to feel a bit proud of this one. Trouble is, when I'm on my tea break sitting and looking at her, I can always find something that need changing.
ken
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Kenny....
No change needed in our eye's.
Ken , you must be tired,how many hours on the ship so far.
Again superb job....
Tim
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Hi Tim
It's been 140 days, so far. Costs have now risen to over £900, and you're right. I am tired a bit. ;) I'll probably fall in the lake when I launch her.
ken
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Ken:
Good luck on the launch...
Job well done!!!!
Tim
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I finally glued all the stanchions and wire together today. The job took over 5 hours with me on my knees, eye level with the bench and pliers and magnifying glass in hand.
It’s time now to think about the railing on the top. I shall fit a wooden one until I get to the stern curve, where I shall probably substitute plastic.
The rear ‘fender’ has been fitted from a solid piece of rubber with a flat cut along its edge and secured with contact adhesive. (244) (245)
The rear life raft canisters were then fitted to the upper cabin roof and some ’little people’ scattered around for effect. (246)
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I have been busy tidying up deck area today. The lifeboats have been strung to the davits and a few extra little parts added. The electronics was set up and the lights plugged in. 32 at the last count. Even the two spotlights on the bridge deck shone away backwards at the lifeboats. Just the railings to go, when I cut the wood.
I took her out to the sunshine for filming, so here is the latest position. (247) (248) (249)
I’m taking the day off tomorrow as I’m away to the boat fair at Warwick. Goodness knows what will take my fancy next.
Sunday, she hits the water. I have the batteries on board and it all checks out on the bench. What can possible go wrong!!
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hate to be the one that tells you ken but the wether isnt looking to good for sunday {:-{
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Story of my life ................ {-)
Gotta go anyway. I must balance her. The missis won't let me put the pool up.
ken
see you there. :-))
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Launch Day
Weather forecast: Windy from the North West, Rain squalls, blustery, and, Oh! Did I mention Rain?
I went to my Boat club’s lake today and met a few hardy souls with their models. After sheltering under a tree and with members drifting away, I thought it was time for the Waverley’s float test.
Well I’m pleased to report that she floats evenly and did look the part out on the water. The engine was started and off we went. The rain eased as if in appreciation of my plight and I was able to take some snap shots of her underway. I have also recorded some Movie clips for my build film, which is coming out by Christmas. The rear cover was then spotted on the bank, so worrying about water ingress to the boat, she was brought in. I wish I had varnished the decks as they were quite damp. The lifeboats were swimming in the stuff
As far as sailing goes, I noted that she was quite stable but manoeuvring was sluggish. The acceleration is also slow and gentle control of the paddle speed is vital as full speed tended to send water all over the place.
All in all, it was a graceful way of boating and I really enjoyed it. All that remains to do is the capping rails and the rigging and she can go on the shelf ready for next years sailing regattas.
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looks great ken, shame i wasnt there to see it but the wether put me off as it was chucking it down where i live >>:-(
i suppose ill see it again though.
cheers, dan
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Yes, it was great fun. I thought the camera might give up on me, but it survived OK.
ken
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Hi there Kenny
she looks very graceful in the water my friend....well worth the effort and time you have put into the build :-)) :-))
aye
john
bluebird
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Thank you, John. You are right. Very different to Tugs. A hot balmy sunny day at the lakeside. Can't think of anything more relaxing, while watching her cruise around.
I'm spurred on to finish her now. How about lifeboats that lower and retrieve ............. no stop it, that's too much. ;)
ken
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Hi Ken
Looks really good, there is just one thing thats been bugging me, are you sure your paint scheme is accurate ?
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Hi Dicky, thank you for your comments.
Just waiting for the coloured strips along the sides. Can't use the Yellow as it wasn't on the 1975 version.
Also on the theme of accuracy, I like the Four lifeboat version ( being a flash Git!!) but do have a changeover switch to convert two of the lifeboats with two canisters for competition time. 8)
There are little runners on the roof to slip either one in place, should I see the judges come around. ;)
ken
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Richard,
Well spotted there old bean.....
Kenny,
She is beautiful my friend...
Barry :-)) :-))
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Really glad to see that the launching went OK Ken. Look forward to seeing her at Wicksteed next year.
Colin
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Ken
She looks great in the water, your hard work and patience has paid off. Nice to see her getting her bottom wet.
Brian
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Wow, what a response. :embarrassed:
Thank you, guys. It's like reaching a milestone. GREAT
I've been 'off air' because I've been working on the 'Movie' This one has so many snapshots and videos to fit together. It will probably fill a CD, which be something to look at during my retirement and dotage. ok2
Once again, thank you for your comments.
ken
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She's a beauty Ken, you have done a fine job. Nice to meet you on Saturday............ :-))..........Smudge
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Hi Smudge.
Thank you for the compliment. Don't you think she was bigger than the Waverley we saw at the show?
Yes, it was nice to meet you and all the other guys at the show. That was the friendliest show I ever been to. I spent so long talking to people that by the time I started looking around, all the stuff I had on my list had gone.
ken
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Today we drilled all the Lime timber with 1mm holes and placed the cut pieces on to the stanchions. This turned out to be quite a delicate job. As of yet, we do not have them secured or shaped to blend together, but the effect is shown here. (250) (251)
You will notice that we have the name proudly shown on the bow. This was done with sticky transfers and looks reasonable from a distance, but close up is not so good. I had considered a thicker type of lettering but have not found a suitable product at the boat fair.
Also fitted is the new rear flagpole. (252)
Because we cannot bend Lime wood very sharp we have made a curved section from plywood for the stern, and have it drilled to fit the rear stanchions.
The masts have had their rings made for the rope supports to be attached. As Turn-buckles are £3 each, we decided to make our own. All 14 have been made from two sizes of plastic tube and a wire has been run through with eyes turned into the ends. These have been painted grey and when dry, will be attached to the deck and masts with suitable rope.
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Hi Ken
You have every reason to be very proud of this build! Very well done. :-))
Looking forward to seeing more pictures of her sailing in better weather in the months ahead.
Kind regards
Andrew
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Thanks, Andrew.
I must admit, this is the fun part of the build. I keep thinking of things to add to her. ok2
ken
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Kenny
I can cut plastic vinyl letters - depends on the size and font as to how successfully. PM me with what you want and I'll have a go. Failing that a local sign maker can almost certainly make them for you.
Barrie
PS FOC :-)
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Hi Barrie.
Yes please. I'd like one each side.
Here is a picture of the actual ship's name on the bow.
My letters need to be 9mm high and it looks like they are all capitals. The colour looks like light brown (where I have black umphh!) I notice that there is an edging shadow, but we can live without that. ok2
Very kind of you to offer. Won't they all be jealous.
cheers
ken
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I see the wood you bought at the show has been used already. Its a fantastic job and really looks stunning. You'll have to bring it to Wicksteed you know, because not only do I want to see her, but I know everone else will want to as well.
Great Job Kenny :-)) :-))
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Thank you Phil, looking forward to it, now I know you've got a pair of 'Waders' 8)
ken
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and the big question is are you going to bring it to the North Wales Boat Rally at LLanberis
Stavros
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and the big question is are you going to bring it to the North Wales Boat Rally at LLanberis
Stavros
Hi Stavros
So nice to see you again. I thank you for the invite and will fit in a visit, if I can.
Whether I will chance 'that deep lake' is another thing. ok2
Gotta thin out the capping rails as they are reported to be too thick.
all the best
ken
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To bring the model up in the field of accuracy, and authenticity, we have altered a few of the details.
First of all, the capping rails were a little on the deep side and sanding them wasn’t really an option, so they were ripped off. The substitute version has been made from cut plastic card and drilled and fitted to the stanchions. (253) (254) (255). These will be veneered to complete the effect.
You will notice that the rigging has been fitted to my home made turnbuckles and secured down with super glue. How do you get the stuff off from your lips? I was wetting my fingers to twist the ropes after gluing. Live and learn eh.
It was then on to the funnels, where the white band was to wide. This was actually measured from the original drawings as these sizes and dimensions. However, the ship itself shows a much thinner band of white.
As you know, it’s almost impossible to add paint to a structure without showing the join, so the whole lot was rubbed down. We started again with the primer and have started the colouring with the red coat. This will be marked off and the other colours added soon. (256)
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The funnels have been re sprayed, (257) and then we then got on with veneering the capping rails. As you can see they are all taped down and have been left to set all night. They are very fragile in this state and it is hoped they will strengthen up when dry. (258)
The little people were then re painted in more realistic colours. These came from China, where they think we all wear yellow trousers and have black hair!! (People)
The front mast was then rigged and secured, and we made a little flag pole for the bow. (259)
I had a go at sign writing the name on the paddle box sides. See picture 257. I don’t rate it very much, but it was a laugh.
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The Home straight
Well, here we are at the end. She is finished.
Although there are a few minor details to complete, the actual building work has come to an end.
Thank you all for your kind comments. It was a thoroughly enjoyable build.
If you remember, all I bought was the bare hull and a kit of paddle wheels. The rest was scratch built using only the drawings and loads of photographs. She is, after all, the most photographed ship in the UK, so no problems there with details.
Having re-read the complete posting, it was quite a journey, with many ups and downs. Corrections were made as we went along, and now we have a model to be proud of. Where on earth am I going to store her?
Work has started on the You Tube video and I will let you know when it’s up and running. I seem to have taken over 400 pictures, which now need sorting and collating into some sort of order, so I still have something to occupy my time.
Here are the final pictures of her in the workshop. (260-265)
Catch you again
Ken
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What a wonderful build Ken!
Can't wait to see it at Wicksteed next year!
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Wonderful model Ken :-))
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Gold Medal material Ken, it's absolutely marvellous. :-)) I'm green with envy.
Peter.
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Absolutely first class Ken, and thank you for sharing the build with us.
I look forward to seeing it in the flesh.
Colin
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Nice one Ken
Well done mate, when are you going to sail her, give us a ring and I will bring my Imara.
PS keep the kettle on I will be over for a proper look.
Bosun :-))
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Ken,
You have brought a lot of pleasure to many of us and produced a superb model into the bargain.
Thank you very much.
Barry
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What a wonderful build Ken!
Can't wait to see it at Wicksteed next year!
Thank you Martin. I wont say it was easy, but it was fun to do.
Allright if I come earlier next year. ok2 I only had 3 hours there last time.
Cheers
ken
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Wonderful model Ken :-))
Thank you Richard. I knew she was a good looker when I saw the plans. Hope I've done her justice. %)
Cheers
ken
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Gold Medal material Ken, it's absolutely marvellous. :-)) I'm green with envy.
Peter.
Thank you Peter. Can I bring to Australia and show you. :-)
Cheers
ken
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Nice one Ken
Well done mate, when are you going to sail her, give us a ring and I will bring my Imara.
PS keep the kettle on I will be over for a proper look.
Bosun :-))
Cheers Terry.
Yes, lets go to Roath Lake in Cardiff again. If the paddles fall off, you can push me home. I'll bring the tea this time.
Ken
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Ken,
You have brought a lot of pleasure to many of us and produced a superb model into the bargain.
Thank you very much.
Barry
Hi Barry
The pleasure's all mine. Thank you for the compliment. Just a few marking lines to go. I've been experimenting with different tapes and have done the funnels today. Just three lines 11 foot long around the hull to go. %)
cheers
ken
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Absolutely first class Ken, and thank you for sharing the build with us.
I look forward to seeing it in the flesh.
Colin
Thanks Colin. Couldn't have done it without your pictures. Might see you at Wicksteed then.
cheers
ken
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A very authentic and lovely model Ken,thanks for sharing.
Well done
Mark
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hi ken top job on here . cant wait to see her some time.
john
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Thank you Peter. Can I bring to Australia and show you. :-)
Anytime at all Ken, you'd be most welcome :-))
Peter
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A very authentic and lovely model Ken,thanks for sharing.
Well done
Mark
Thanks Mark. The members of 'Paddleducks' advised me through it, and kept me going.
Cheers
Ken
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hi ken top job on here . cant wait to see her some time.
john
Thank you, John. I guess I'll have to bring her to our annual get together.
Might get my own table with sturdy legs. ;)
ken
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My Movie of the whole build is now up and running on "You Tube"
http://ca.youtube.com/watch?v=xDuRdP9HCMU
As its ten minutes long, it take a while to load, so please let the red line get ahead of you before clicking the start button, otherwise it stops during the film show.
Enjoy,
ken
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just seen the video ken, thats a boat to be proud of :-)) i particularly like the scratch build life boats, shame about the weather on the day of the sea trials but it still looked really good! I'm looking forward to seeing it in the flesh O0
well done :-))
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Hi Dan
Yes, it was raining that day. The rest of the club went home, so I thought I'd better not go out on the big lake alone. ok2
The paddling pool was just deep enough to see if she floated without mishap !!
Might take her to Roath lake in Cardiff when I have a support tug. ;)
ken
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Ken,
Absolutely fabulous - as usual! Great model, really entertaining and informative build blog and superb video.
All the best,
Jim
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Cheers, Jim. I did enjoy building her, warts and all!!
She could do with a final dash to fit some extras, when I get some spare time. After all, there's the lounges to fit out.
ken
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Hi Ken,
Look forward to seeing both you and the 'completed' Waverley at Roath.
Plenty of support boats available - not that I expect that you'll need any :-)) every Sunday from around 12.00.
Water conditions are great at the moment, although the launching area is a favourite rest-room for the resident wildfowl <*<
Still Canada goose for Christmas lunch is looking favourite at the moment :} :police:
See you soon
Bradboat
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Hi Ken,
Look forward to seeing both you and the 'completed' Waverley at Roath.
Plenty of support boats available - not that I expect that you'll need any :-)) every Sunday from around 12.00.
Water conditions are great at the moment, although the launching area is a favourite rest-room for the resident wildfowl <*<
Still Canada goose for Christmas lunch is looking favourite at the moment :} :police:
See you soon
Bradboat
Great. I'll be back there again. I went with Bosun last time and we thought it was great lake for us boaties. I noticed the birds intrusion on the landing stage and thought I might bring a shovel next time. :D
Might try the Sunday trip after lunch. We weren't sure when you met, but it is nice to have company.
ken
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A few finishing touches were added today.
I decided that the Yellow line was not a very good yellow colour, so I've fitted new strips all around.
The name lettering was supplied by BarrieW, and it's superb. It's made of vinyl and machine made. Thank you Barrie, I think it looks the bees knees (as they say) (268) (269)
ps, must get a proper flag. Anyone know 'where from', please.
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Took her off to the lake today with her baby sister Wavespringerly.
Here is the movie.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-gl5W6OZRV4
cheers
ken
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She looks real good Ken and the WaveSpringerley seemed to sail quite well.
i promise I will get to sail with you soon if only the phone would stop ringing!!!!!
Mark.
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That makes all the pain worth while Ken. Excellent
Barry
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She looks real good Ken and the WaveSpringerley seemed to sail quite well.
i promise I will get to sail with you soon if only the phone would stop ringing!!!!!
Mark.
Thanks Mark. And to think I brought a Thermos to share with you mmmm!!
ken
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That makes all the pain worth while Ken. Excellent
Barry
She sailed like a dream, Barry. I was quite proud of her.
Stern wheeler next eh !! I'll try it out on a springer. Got any names for one ? ok2
ken
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Hi Ken
Great to see her back on the water again, and looking fantastic!
I had a walk past the real thing in my lunch break yesterday,she's lying quietly, awaiting spring and warmer weather once more. Looking forward to seeing many more pictures of your pride and joy as the sailing weather improves. :-)
Regards
Andrew
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Great stuff, Ken, :-)) she looks magnificent - I'm still green with envy O0
Peter.
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Thank you everyone. I feel like a proud Dad!!!
The lamposts arrived from China so these will be fitted over the paddle boxes for the gantry entrance. Not really much more to do on her.
I let the local children drive the wave springer and they succeeded in stripping the gear box of it's plastic gear wheels. :(( It's back to the drawing board on this one.
Ken
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It was back to the build recently.....
I have changed the gear ratio on the paddle drive system by fitting one-one pully wheels on the shaft instead of one-two.
This has the effect of doubling the paddlewheel speed. When tested in the lake, the ship moved with a better power to weight ratio and also the steerage improved greatly.
Spurred on by this , I then wired up the smoke machine to the 24 volts required, and had it switch on and off by using an ACTion switcher unit. Unfortunately, this involved fitting two 6 volt lead batteries on each side of the unit in front of the motor, which made her Bow heavy.
I took her to the lake on Sunday and noticed this on the water, but tried a little sail. When underway she seemed to be dipping the bow so I brought her in.
Good job I did because the water had been pouring in through the square windows at a rate of knotts and she would have sunk. The amount of water inside gave me the biggest fright of my life. I was horrified to think of the consequencies.
I think I may have reached over my weight limit now, so I'll have to think of further Mods to get her back to the water line. Still, for one glorious moment she looked good with all lights on, smoking like a good un, and sound generator blasting away (pity about the speaker cone getting wet !!) ok2
ken
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Hi Ken
Just been looking at ypur photo of the Waverley, a fantastic looking model, you must be very proud of her. Any pics of her on the water?
How's the Imara looking, if it's up to the Waverley standard (and I'm sure it is) it will be great. Any pics of her as well?
Regards
Brian
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Hi Ken
Senior moment I'm afraid, found some pics of the Waverley, beautiful!!
Brian
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Regarding the 6volt SLA's could you not put a step down power unit in and run from your 24volt system or even from one of the 12volt batteries.
would be lighter and easier to install and also be a lot easier on the set up at the lake side IMHO
R,
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Thanks Brian. There's plenty on the last 12 pages, and a movie on You Tube ok2
I'm working on a lighter solution, Cat. I don't let minor upsets get to me. I'm used to sinking now. %)
cheers
ken
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... ust thinking out loud, in a model boat, apart from authenticity, is there any noticeable benefit to working "feathering" paddle wheels?
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On a model paddler with feathering wheels, I have found that there is less chance of the paddle boxes choking up when starting off, compared to fixed blade wheels and I have built 10 paddlers now with feathering floats.
There is also an increase in speed compared to fixed blades.
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Yes, John has said it all really.
There is obviously more load on the drive system to cover the mechanics of all the pivoting arms, but the pulling power is greater as the blades are parallel to the thrust on the water.
Regarding the actual boxes, I've found it best fit an inside cover around the wheels to prevent water going into the box depths. This cause less of a drag, but the water must escape before it clogs up the space.
Hope this helps.
Ken
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that is absolutely fantastic! :-))
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Thank you Wilit. Very much appreciated.. :-))
Are you thinking of having a go ?
Ken
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Nice model that kenny, when she comes into portsmouth harbour we go out in the pusher tug and spin her :-))
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Thanks Offshore, I do really like her. She doesn't go in for 'cornering' at all. %)
Ken
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:embarrassed: & Martin asks ... "is there any noticeable benefit to working "feathering" paddle wheels?"
{-) {-)...Martin ...you may just have to join Paddleducks & ask that same question in the search engine....... :-)) ....Derek
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Fantastic model!
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Thank you for your kind comments.
Here's another picture to refresh memories. She is in pride of place in the workshop and still attracts comments even though covered in dust. ;)
Ken
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Is she not still sailing? I hope she is, as I just read that the real thing may not be sailing in the Bristol Channel for much longer - funding problems. So we have to have at least one Waverley afloat! :-)
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fantastic build, just love those paddles
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That is a great build and the detail is superb. Looks very realistic on the water.
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Thank you for the kind comments. :-))
Sorry about the missing pictures as they are in GIF format and cannot be displayed any more. I will try and get them replaced with J-pegs.
Cheers
ken
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Wish I'd seen this sooner what a beauty, brings back fond memories
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Thank you Ken.
Here is the You Tube film of the build. Filmed in march 2009 would you believe. :}
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B3NwN7HapCU
Cheers
ken