Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Navy - Military - Battleships: => Topic started by: dan on July 30, 2008, 06:45:14 pm
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hi guys. here are some pictures of my latest build, HMS campbeltown 1/96 scale, i haven't taken many pictures of the build so far and i regret it so i will take lots more as the build go on. i had the semi kit from fleet scale for a Xmas parents from my parents, then i bought the futaba 6EX 2.4 GHz RC system for my birthday. the reason i bought this RC system was because most of the crystal frequencies are being used at my local club by the time i get there and because of the following functions i wish my boat to perform - a turning turret, many lights throughout the ship, rotating radars, possibly smoke coming from the funnel, and the lifeboat/working boat will lower over the side and lifted back up again.
i hope you like the photos and there will be lots more to follow through time.
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and a few more
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and the last for now
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Hi Dan.
That looks good. I'm jealous already. I'm thinking about 2.4 gig as well.
That's your summer all booked then. :D
All the best
ken
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thanks ken, i told my self that when i broke up for school i would do at least 2 hours work each day. after being off school for 5 weeks i have done a maximum of 5 hours work on it ::), an this sunday I'm going away for a week so thats less work thats going to be done on it :-\
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Come-on that man.
8 hours a day please. We want to see her sailing. ;D ;D ;D
ken
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today i spent 8 hours (is that better ken O0) working on the bridge. i thought it would be extremely difficult with various angles but it didn't turn out too bad, it needs a bit of filler in a few places and a roof but i think it looks good for now, so I'm in a good mood until something else goes wrong with the build ;D
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dan,
I've just found your boat. Very impressive. Hope this one doesn't burst into flames in the middle of the pond! :(
Seriously, it looks as though you've been working v.hard. keep up the good work. Looking forward to seeing next stage.
:police:
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sorry i havent posted for a while, but here are a few photos up to date.
cheers, dan
p.s sorry if theyre a bit blured
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some of the latest pics
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this is what i managed to get done today.
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remade the bow today because i wasn't Happy with it last time ( i think there is a photo with it visable in my 3rd post). heres how i got on. I'm hoping to order the fairleads in the next week and then get them installed.
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If i ever get round to building a warship one day it will be one of these. I just love the shape of that bow.
The build looks good.
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thanks gary,
i reckon the T22 has the niced shape hull out of all ships O0
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Hi Dan, looking good so far, but, please let me put you right on one thing if you don't mind.
The 4.5 gun base on the fore castle is upside down mate. the big plate fits to the bottom of the turret, the round bit goes to the deck.
Paul... :-)
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Darlek1,
That's what I call "Useful Tips". I have the Fleetscale 1:72 hull and hope to start construction some time this year.
With all the posts on the forum of the T22 builds - I hope to have a lot less errors as in the past with my other builds.
Keep up the good work dantheman - your model is coming along well and will keep a close eye on this build - many hints for my build.
Martin doon under
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Thanks Martin, I will post pictures of my Campbeltown in Dans thread if he agrees?
Come on Dan, let me know?
It will work for both scales, trouble is mine will be completed in some pics and not quite in others.
I just thought, if it helps?
Paul... :-)
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Darlek1,
Why don't you post your pics in "What are you building at the moment" thread. That way it won't hijack dantheman's thread :-))
come on - post some pics - I need all the help I can get %)
Martin du
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OK Martin, I will start resizing and start a thread asap.
My Campbeltown was built about 4 years ago now. She had a glossy bottom for a completed model client for protection, but, it shouldn't detract from what you guys need to know hopefully.
Paul...
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Darlek1,
Why don't you post your pics in "What are you building at the moment" thread. That way it won't hijack dantheman's thread :-))
come on - post some pics - I need all the help I can get %)
Martin du
Sorry Darlek1 - just realised who you are - Paul from Sirmar - you would definitely know which way a fitting should be installed...
I have a question re a Fleetscale part - will send pm if that's okay...
Martin doon under
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No worries Martin, I'll see if I can help, lets get back to Dan's build.
Paul... :-)
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hi lads,
the gun mounting has already been pointed out :embarrassed: but It hasn't been stuck down permanently yet so it keeps moving while i work. but thank you both for your kind comments. martin doon under, if there is any sort of information or hints you need during your build i would be more than happy to to help :-))
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a bit of TLC carried out on the bridge, so hopfully it looks a bit better
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Looking really good, Dan :-)) :-)) O0 O0 O0 O0
Mark
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thanks Mark :-))
and thanks for moving it Martin
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a few more pics, not much recently though because of exams. it looks small but it took me weeks to research and come up with an idea to make these, and it looks so simple from the pictures.
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That's becoming a very nice model :-)) :-))
This is a Broadsword-class, isn't it?
Did i see your using an Ansmann ESC?
I've bought one quite half a year ago, and i didn't manage to get the setup right, so it would make the engine's drive the model the right way.
In the end i decided to use it as a forward-only ESC using a home-made servo-switch to reverse the engine's, but that went wrong, so it's not working anymore.
Still i would like to know if it was only my lack of skills in getting the setup right, or are you (or anyone else) having problems with them as well?
Greetings Josse
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hi josse,
thanks for the kind words, the ship is a type 22 frigate, and if your referring to the mtroniks speed controller, then yes i have had a few problems, it had a mi of its own and did what it liked when it liked. but i haven't had any problems with the ACTion ESCs.
sorry about the late reply ive been working for my exams.
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Hi Dantheman,
Exams are much more important then hobbies, so that's no problem at all.
Did you pass the exams?
Or are you still busy with them?
Greetings Josse
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i passed one exam about small business networking, but this is a specialised one ran by Cisco Sysems through the school, so i know the result instantly because its done online. ive done the IT exam and all i have left now is my design tech on tuesday, then thats another year of education over for me. O0
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The way you are making those rings seems a bit difficult.
Why not make a former out of dowel and wrap micro strip around it in a tight coil(tape it to the dowel at the start and end) and pour boiling water over it. This will set the plastic into a "spring". This can them be easily cut into rings and stuck onto the hull.
I recently used this technique with stretched sprue to make the radio direction finder loops, using a 6mm drill as the template, on the model in this photo -
http://aol.pixum.co.uk/album/image/id/4305563/page/5#
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hi niall,
thanks for the suggestion, ill try it next time :-))
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the first stage of painting
and the last picture shows how it looks so far
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here are the first bits of detail going onto the ship. these being the helicopter guide lights and the hanger lights. the fist picture shows the supports i made for the guide lights, the second showing how small they are, and the 3rd and 4th with them in place
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Coming along nicely, Dan. It's great when the paint starts getting on.
Well done :-))
Ken
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thanks ken :-))
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hi Dan yes its looking great is your deck all in place and what paint are you going to paint the hull with matt or satin.
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hi wallace,
the deck is all one peace, plywood, with a layer of 0.5mm plasicard on top to hide the grain. the pywood has been attatched to the hull using epoxy glue and the same for the plasticard. as for the paint, i came across this stuff http://www.fleetscale.com/altshop/paint1.htm apparently its exactly the same colour as they use on the modern day warships, so ill probably apply this all over the model using an air brush and then ill go around carfully painting the detailed parts suh as the watertight doors.
hope this helps
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and some more details, these are ridiculously small, the window that can be seen is 4mm x 9mm to give you a rough indication of the size i am working with
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heres the last picture again,
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Looks great :-))
Paul's hulls are superb aren't they :-))
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thanks andy
ive never had any problems with any of pauls things
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the latest images.
the funnel will be floodlit using 1.8mm LEDs. these will be fitted just in front of the white metal floodlight fittings. the reason I'm doing it this way is because i want this model to be as accurate as possible and i thought the LEDs would make it look less realistic if they took the place of the white metal fittings. if you look carefully you can see a LED being fitted in the pictures labled "funnel 2" and "funnel 4"
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here's the second pic again
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more
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Not been on much Dan due to health just been playing catch up ,and wow what a fine job you are doing enjoying all your work.Also dan the site you gave me for the paint for warships can you re do it for me again,whats the closest paint to it that Humbro do.
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thanks for the compliment wallace, it much appreciated :-)) you have a pm
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On a side note, there was a film on the TV (Monday) called, The Gift Horse, that was all about the St Nazaire raid.
( Also worth a viewing is Jeremy Clarkson docudrama of the same event, excellent.)
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what channel martin?
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Found it! ..... that was a struggle...
More 4, Mon 20 July, 11:15, THE GIFT HORSE 115 MINS
(1952) Trevor Howard captains an ancient US warship gifted to the British navy, which is chosen to lead the raid on St Nazaire in 1942. With Richard Attenborough.
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i have started to add the wire details to the mast
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Dan and I went to the lake today, to launch his Cambletown.
As I had my camera, I've taken the following pictures of his ship and the build so far. I hope you like them. My particular favourite is the moody shot of 'man and boat' in contrast against the water.
Enjoy
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thanks for posting them ken :-))
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No problem Dan. Thank You for filming Imara while I steered her around the lake. It came out well and I shall be putting it on 'You Tube' soon.
ken
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looks good dan :-))
How did it handles
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thanks gingyer
i was a bit disappointed with the steering, the ship only seemed to turn when i had it going at full speed. I'm might try messing around with the tiller arms a bit to see if i can get the rudder to turn a bit further. otherwise i was very happy with the performance
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:-)) :-)) Hi Dan its really looking great and glad it goes ok for you have a good look at the rudder out of water and see if its catching on anywhere you my have to get the file out.
But anyway its looking good well done to you and all the hard work Dan.Will have to give mine a go soon just get this opp out of the way .Thanks for the kind words dan.
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Hi Dan you've inspired me to have a go at a 22 myself. Always fancied it never had the
time well for a change I now do. Fantastic build keep up the great work :-))
Colin.
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thanks Colin, once u get started on the build, if theres anything i can help you with please don't hesitate to ask.
and Ive got a few ideas what i can do with the rudders now wallace :-))
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thanks Colin, once u get started on the build, if theres anything i can help you with please don't hesitate to ask.
and Ive got a few ideas what i can do with the rudders now wallace :-))
You shouldn't have said that I'll end up driving you mad!!!!!
Colin :-))
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have you started a type 22 yet colin :-))
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some updates. the nearly completed main mast.
unfortunately the fine wire work that took me the best part of a day can not really bee seen in these photos {:-{
(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/dan12332/IMAG0113.jpg)
And here is the new air vents, these were rebuilt as i was not completely happy with my first attempt
(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/dan12332/IMAG0114.jpg)
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Dan,
I see in the last photo that you have a resin funnel, if it is a solid resin moulding I would suggest that you hollow it out as much as possible. I have seen models that have used the solid resin funnels and they all had stability problems with that much weight above the waterline.
Mark
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All Sirmar funnels are hollow with the exception of some of the 1/48th larger models.
Paul...
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painting begins with the primer on the hull, and hanger.
(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/dan12332/IMAG0122.jpg)
(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/dan12332/IMAG0123.jpg)
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Looking good Dan. :-)) O0 O0 O0
I keep looking at mine wishing I can get tore into it, but the wee fella always wants to play super hero's or something like that.
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looking good must give you a lot of pride and pleasure tinged with a littel sadness when dun
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What a lovely paint job. She looks the part now Dan. Excellent work :-))
ken
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:-)) :-)) Dan what more can this old man say that I havent said before Dan its a wonderful job you have done Im still keeping a eye on you build.
As for mine Im still at it re-doing alot I done last year and I must say they look 10 times better just re-done the yard-arm on the main mast
Once again Dan well done and you must be so proud of your build.
wallace
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Thank you all for your very kind words. i am proud of how its turned out so far... i can not wait to get it finished and on the water (which ideally i would like to do on my clubs open day in september) O0
many thanks, Dan
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I am a complete newbie to model boats and am watching this thread with great interest. Absolutely cracking work Dan.
The reason I am sooooo interested in this one is that I served on the real HMS Campbeltown from the day she was built for 3 years and hold her very dear to my heart. F86 Fighting Fortress.
Where did you get the hull from Dan as I want to build one but not sure whether to build from absolute scratch, making a plug, or buy a hull and then fabricate the rest of the superstructure and detail myself.
If there is any info I can give you or photos, as i will have some close up shots of me stood in front of various bits of the ships equipment then please shout.
Ian
P.S. just a small detail, not sure if the red oxide colour you used for the water line is just a base coat, but on the old girl she had a white water line and then gloss black below it. (I should know, I was in the seamanship branch and had to keep bleeding painting her) <:(
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Hi Ian,
Thankyou for your comments.
I am currently waiting to join and serve in the RN, however i need to put on 4KG before they are willing to take me. I have already been accepted as an aircraft technician, but like i say i need to put on the weight first.
I purchased the hull from Fleetscale, an it has been made to a very good standard. i Know others who have build HMS campbeltown, but made their own hulls using a plank on frame techniques which seems to have worked very well.
As for the paint that is on the hull at the moment, these are just the primers waiting for the final coats. I have already got the correct gray for the ship, but could you recommend a red for under the waterline please?
Thanks again, Dan :-))
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the superstructure with the basic fittings and first coat of primer
(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/dan12332/fullprime.jpg)
(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/dan12332/bridgeprimed.jpg)
(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/dan12332/mainmastprimed.jpg)
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the foremast is missing because it was destroyed by a child, so its being re built.
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Dan,
She looks well made and detailed.
Looks great so far.
Bob
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thanks mate :-))
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I am 99% sure the red paint used on the ship was red oxide
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Below is a picture of my rebuild foremast
(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/dan12332/IMAG0195.jpg)
Now most of the ship has had its final coat of paint sprayed on and this is how it looks so far minus the funnel
(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/dan12332/finalcoat.jpg)
and finally, here are the first LEDs fitted.
(http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss320/dan12332/FirstLEDsfitted.jpg)
I can now get on with fitting all the fittings such as weapons, railings etc...
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That mast is an absolute pain to make.
You have made a superb job of it.
Bob
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Looking great Dan.
Have you ever noticed how its always the most complicated bits that get damaged ? {:-{
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Lovely work Dan. Its coming on a treat.
Geoff
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thanks very much guys :-))
id like to point out that on the last photo the LEDs look like they're standard size, but there not, they're actually 1mm or 2mm LEDs, i cant actually which one they are though sorry.
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Very nice build Dan. If you require any particular photo's of a 22 in person I can get them for you, Chatham is about 200 feet away and Cornwall is about 700 feet :}
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Hi Dan
A very nice build you have there, well done.
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She is looking good there Dan :-))
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thank you both :-))
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Really nice work!!! Keep at it!
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Hi all. I hope no one minds but I'm going to carry on this build thread as if it hasn't been 11 years since I last done any work on it :embarrassed: I never had the heart to pass it to anyone else to finish it, I'm determined to get it done regardless of how long it takes. I've done very little with any models for the last decade so the work isn't the best but nevertheless I'm back to enjoying building again.
The last week or so I've spent cleaning it, and finding out what has inevitably been damaged/lost or broken after all this time and sourcing parts. (Many thanks to those who have helped me with parts, it's been greatly appreciated!)
So my main mast is nearing completion, and final paint job.
As is the main superstructure although there is still a few more fittings to be made and fitted to this.
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Hi Dan,
Its a hobby, and while we all want and feel the need to get things made, painted, woven or even fired, real life and 'stuff' can get in the way, or may be we get a touch of ennui and don't fancy it, or have another project we need to complete first, almost like a chore but it slips in the interest side of work.
Whatever, she's a gorgeous model and in the seven years I have been a Mayhemer, I missed the last post, so to me this is an exciting new project worthy of following. That mast is fab.
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HI Dan nice to see you again im boatman remember me from MODELWARSHIPS UK forum as i was on there building my USS NIMITZ back about 2009 time an im on here as frogman 3 building my HMS TIGER build so back to your ship hope you will finish her as i remember you sayin you was thinking of joining the R/N so did you do it ? an i built HMS Cambeltown in 1/72 scale an they chose my ship as the header picture for the forum if you remember an i think its still on as the forum header pic pity it ran down as there was so much info on that site which is now lost as i cant get back on there an severall others have treid well hope to speak to you soon when you come on line
ATB chris the boatman :-)) an Dan here is a linkpic to my campbelltown model in 1/72 scale that was the header pic on modelwarships uk
https://ibb.co/QMFwzFx
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Whatever, she's a gorgeous model and in the seven years I have been a Mayhemer, I missed the last post, so to me this is an exciting new project worthy of following. That mast is fab.
Thank you very much mate! I didn't expect life to get in the way as much as it did but there we go, I've started again so I'm happy.
HI Dan nice to see you again im boatman remember me from MODELWARSHIPS UK forum as i was on there building my USS NIMITZ back about 2009 time an im on here as frogman 3 building my HMS TIGER build so back to your ship hope you will finish her as i remember you sayin you was thinking of joining the R/N so did you do it ? an i built HMS Cambeltown in 1/72 scale an they chose my ship as the header picture for the forum if you remember an i think its still on as the forum header pic pity it ran down as there was so much info on that site which is now lost as i cant get back on there an severall others have treid well hope to speak to you soon when you come on line
ATB chris the boatman :-)) an Dan here is a linkpic to my campbelltown model in 1/72 scale that was the header pic on modelwarships uk
https://ibb.co/QMFwzFx (https://ibb.co/QMFwzFx)
Hi Chris! Yes I remember, I'll never forget that Nimitz, disappointed I didn't see the finished thing, but from what I did see I bet it looked fantastic! I remember the photos of your Type 22, I've been looking for the warship forum, sad it's no longer there, as you say there was so much valuable info on it for them.
The navy didn't happen for various reasons, but I'm a plumber now. Still evolves around water 👍 I'll head over and take a look at your HMS Tiger! I'm bound to pick up some new tips and advice!
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Thank you very much mate! I didn't expect life to get in the way as much as it did but there we go, I've started again so I'm happy.
Hi Chris! Yes I remember, I'll never forget that Nimitz, disappointed I didn't see the finished thing, but from what I did see I bet it looked fantastic! I remember the photos of your Type 22, I've been looking for the warship forum, sad it's no longer there, as you say there was so much valuable info on it for them.
The navy didn't happen for various reasons, but I'm a plumber now. Still evolves around water 👍 I'll head over and take a look at your HMS Tiger! I'm bound to pick up some new tips and advice!
HI Dan so you a plumber in the end then still a very good job very well done on that an you say you [size=78%]I'll never forget that Nimitz, disappointed I didn't see the finished thing, but from what I did see I bet it looked fantastic![/size][size=78%] well here are a few pics of how she was finished an she sailed really great even in gale force winds up at sheringham pond as it next the sea on a cliff top[/size]
https://ibb.co/pb1BBP3
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an here underway in a high wind
https://ibb.co/Bc7xWPn
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an here a shot of her on her display table
https://ibb.co/pntwBVL
Hope you you liked the finished artickle Dan an it took 7 yrs to build in the end
as it had a lot of working things such as working aircraft elevators an open an closiesing hangers doors all worked from R/C an i was very pleased with her an i sailed her for three yrs an in a few model shows an a colector wanted her so she went as we moved to a smaller house
ATB an i'll let you get back to you type 22 build an im looking forward to seeing her finished
ATB chris hope to talk to you soon Dan as im on here near every day
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Good to see you resume your build Dan. As has been said, your Mainmast is a nice piece of work. RR Tyne soft patches included.
I look forward to following your progress.
Nige
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Hope you you liked the finished artickle Dan an it took 7 yrs to build in the end
It looks fantastic Chris! Definitely has a presence on and off the water!
Good to see you resume your build Dan. As has been said, your Mainmast is a nice piece of work. RR Tyne soft patches included.
I look forward to following your progress.
Nige
Thank you Nige! Hoping to have more updates within the next week!
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Latest update, tidied up the funnel, added the metal work and repaired damage that the funnel has suffered durning the last decade. At least one rod of every bit of metal work is drilled into the funnel mould for a bit of rigidity and added support. Then due to the size the small (as small as 3mm) metal rods have simply been super glued with a glue gel. I’ve found this the easiest for a quick grab when setting the rods in place, and when dry it’s not as brittle as standard superglue.
I’d previously painted the funnel superstructure before fitting the funnel, but seeing as I’ve now attached the funnel to its super structure I thought I’d just re-prime the lot of it.
I’m happy with the over all progress. I’ve slowly started to add minor details such as the wipers and bits of miscellaneous accessories and it’s really starting to come together.
Next step is to repair and replace bits of the aircraft hanger
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HI Dan very nice work you have done on her as this is a complex model as i found out when building my 1/72 campbeltown but try an keep your top weight down as love your brass work but to much can get heavy as again i found out on mine an she needed a lead counter balance wheight fitted to the hull under side but she sailed great an hope your will too but im enjoying lookin at your build as it brings back good memeyrioes for me when i was building mine over 20yrs ago now keep up the good work as i'll be following :-))
chris the boatman
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Thanks Chris :-)) I think I'm going to be ok regarding the weight as the structures are only 1.5 plasticard and the thickest brass rod used is 1mm. Glad your enjoying it too! I do think if I was to build another, it would have to be 1:72 purely for ease when it comes to adding the detail
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Thanks Chris :-)) I think I'm going to be ok regarding the weight as the structures are only 1.5 plasticard and the thickest brass rod used is 1mm. Glad your enjoying it too! I do think if I was to build another, it would have to be 1:72 purely for ease when it comes to adding the detail
HI again Dan yes the 1/72 scale is the best of the scales in my opinion an there is plenty of room in her to add working feature as you know i like to fit in the model but beware she is nr 7ft long thats why i alwalys cut model in half for ease of transport to the pond an it fairly easy to do but makes life easyier an when you get to pond all have to be done is just slip it togeather an fit on the butterfly nuts an shes whole again an sailble
chris
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Lovely job. :-))
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Bit more done over the weekend. Most of the superstructure had a complete re paint, including the Main mast. The Matt black was my first attempt with a airbrush, personally I don't think it's come out too badly.
I've also tidied up the "ladder" at the front of the superstructure. In previous photos you can see how wonkey it was originally, it always caught my eye for all the wrong reasons. It's still not perfect but noticeably better.
Finally managed to make something that resembles the motor launch davits.
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Your work with the airbrush did come out well :-)) Good coverage.
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HI Dan well done on makeing them boat davits as they are very awkward to make an yes your ladder rungs look ok as i had the same problem on my cambeltown where the rungs went off at an angle what i should have done is just lightly with a pencil drew two dead upright lines an then drill the holes but i like you soon altered them so they ended up right an are you not gonna fit in glass in your bridge windows as its set the model off :-)) an fit bridge light an nav lights ?
chris
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Your work with the airbrush did come out well :-)) Good coverage.
Thanks very much!
HI Dan well done on makeing them boat davits as they are very awkward to make an yes your ladder rungs look ok as i had the same problem on my cambeltown where the rungs went off at an angle what i should have done is just lightly with a pencil drew two dead upright lines an then drill the holes but i like you soon altered them so they ended up right an are you not gonna fit in glass in your bridge windows as its set the model off :-)) an fit bridge light an nav lights ?
chris
Thanks Chris! There are LEDs fitted for the navigation lights, along with LEDs in the bridge, but I'm undecided whether or not to connect them up or not as I've only fitted a few LEDs across the ship and it might look odd with just a couple. I'll have a think over the next few weeks
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will not look odd at all, just a few ligths and red light for the bridsge, dont bother with white as personally its not that realistic, nice subdued lighting would set it off a treat.
Bob
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Maybe of interest (or not)!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0FLRhagCTy0 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0FLRhagCTy0)
Regards
C-3PO
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Maybe of interest (or not)!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0FLRhagCTy0 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0FLRhagCTy0)
Regards
C-3PO
HI C-3PO THAT my old campbetown i built an a bloke bought it off me an put it on utube but she still looks nice as dan this ship was on the modelwarshipuk header picture if you remeber back in 2008 time
chris
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If I remember rightly I think I only have 8-10 working LEDs on the ship, including a red LED inside the bridge. I did originally plan on having plenty of LEDs around it, but as I was building it, it got tricky being such a small scale. If I do another, it'll be 1:72 scale, like Chris's old one in that youtube video (which I have watched plenty of times for inspiration and tips but thanks for sharing it, it is a helpful video for anyone building a type 22) :-))
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HI Dan if you do build a 1/72 model then my advice is make it in two bits like i did as the hull lenght in 1/72 is nr 7 ft long an in two 3 an a half ft sections is managable but 7ft in one bit no way
chris %)
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Unless you build your own trailer. This one takes 12' Queen Mary 2 plus QE2 and USS Missouri at 1/100
A Task Force 72 member I know has a second hand ambulance to carry his Aircraft carrier
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will not look odd at all, just a few ligths and red light for the bridsge, dont bother with white as personally its not that realistic, nice subdued lighting would set it off a treat.
Bob
HI Bob SORRY personally i dont aggree with you on white lights as all ships must have them i would have thought an ive made mine bright as i want them to be seen in daylight
chris
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I don't think my partner wouldn't let me build anything that warrants a trailer to transport it {-) I think 7ft would be my absolute limit on any model, mainly due to the weight of the thing. They can't be light? And my nearest lake has a good 5 minuet walk to it, so carrying anything to it is usually a pain!
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HI Bob SORRY personally i dont aggree with you on white lights as all ships must have them i would have thought an ive made mine bright as i want them to be seen in daylight
chris
Chris yes all ships have them but what I am saying is they do not stand out in the daylight, so thats why i do not use them looks totally unrealistic, same as red night lights subdued lighting is what I am trying to create as per 1/1
Bob
BTW were did you get the info on anti collission lights as I cant find anything in the manuals, be interested to know
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I don't think my partner wouldn't let me build anything that warrants a trailer to transport it {-) I think 7ft would be my absolute limit on any model, mainly due to the weight of the thing. They can't be light? And my nearest lake has a good 5 minuet walk to it, so carrying anything to it is usually a pain!
HI DAN this is totally up to you but if you did a hull jiont like i do where the model spilts in two an you build a carry craydle with handles like i have done then its a lot easyier to move the ship around as you can carry the model like a couple of suitcases but thats my take on it
chris
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Chris yes all ships have them but what I am saying is they do not stand out in the daylight, so thats why i do not use them looks totally unrealistic, same as red night lights subdued lighting is what I am trying to create as per 1/1
Bob
BTW were did you get the info on anti collission lights as I cant find anything in the manuals, be interested to know
OK Bob well we will have to just aggree to diagree lol on the lights an anti collishion lights are shown on my plans an i have a pic of a real type 22 in dock with her red anti collission lights on at the mast top nr the main radar but i cant show it as its copyright from the R/N NEWS paper but if you want i can email it to you just say an the ship is all lit up as she is on show like my tiger will be an if im goona send her in harms way then its a simple matter of switching the lights off
ATB
chris
hope you both as well as can be an hope you have a nice christmas an SORRY dan for takeing over your thread an let you get back to your build
chris an hope you have a nice xmas also
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I think we all understand any image of a Warship taken in dock can represent something that will never happen or occur at sea :P ...and visa versa
Derek
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HI DAN this is totally up to you but if you did a hull jiont like i do where the model spilts in two an you build a carry craydle with handles like i have done then its a lot easyier to move the ship around as you can carry the model like a couple of suitcases but thats my take on it
chris
I would definitely consider it Chris! So much easier carrying two lighter parts that one heavy one! And no worries about taking over thread! Makes for a interesting read. I probably won't get chance to do much over Christmas, but I hope everyone has a good one :-))
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Evening all,
Over the past few days I've been respraying the hull, after years of neglect it had began to look tired and warn. I'm at a stage where I can start adding the deck markings, pennant number, depth markings etc.. I've found the pennant numbers and depth markings, but I'm struggling to find anything I can use for the yellow deck warning circles around the guns, launchers, and the heli deck markings. Can anyone point me in the right direction? I don't think I'll make a neat job of paining it by hand. Especially the circles.
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What diameter do you need them Dan? You can buy semi circle yellow stripes for putting on motorbike wheels, they come in curved sections, these may do the job.
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Ah I probably should have checked this before I packed up for the night. At a guess the smaller ones will be around 40mm diameter and the bigger one 70-80mm and maybe and 2-3mm wide. I'm sure they do these decals for 1:72 scale but can't seem to find them for 1:96. I will see if I can alter these motorbike ones, thanks for the suggestion
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Evening all,
Over the past few days I've been respraying the hull, after years of neglect it had began to look tired and warn. I'm at a stage where I can start adding the deck markings, pennant number, depth markings etc.. I've found the pennant numbers and depth markings, but I'm struggling to find anything I can use for the yellow deck warning circles around the guns, launchers, and the heli deck markings. Can anyone point me in the right direction? I don't think I'll make a neat job of paining it by hand. Especially the circles.
HI Dan a company called BECC do all deck markings in all different sizes as i use them an an when you buy the sheet they are sticky back so you can fit them an if not right then lift them off an refit till they are right just put BECC decals in your search box an they should come up as they make hundreds of differnt signs an marking an flags as HOBBIES stock them also thats where i bought mine
an they are in yellow an black colours if you cant find them tell me an i'll look for them for you ok
chris
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Dan,
Look at BECC from Cornwall Models , you will need to look through all the items
https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/ss000001.pl?SO=1_3_4_0&TB=O&SS=Becc&PR=-1&SO=1%5f3%5f4%5f0&SO=1%5f3%5f4%5f0&SO=1%5f3%5f4%5f0&SO=1%5f3%5f4%5f0&SO=1%5f3%5f4%5f0&SO=1%5f3%5f4%5f0&SO=1%5f3%5f4%5f0&SO=1%5f3%5f4%5f0&SS=Becc&SS=Becc&SS=Becc&SS=Becc&SS=Becc&SS=Becc&SS=Becc&SS=Becc&PN=0 (https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/ss000001.pl?SO=1_3_4_0&TB=O&SS=Becc&PR=-1&SO=1%5f3%5f4%5f0&SO=1%5f3%5f4%5f0&SO=1%5f3%5f4%5f0&SO=1%5f3%5f4%5f0&SO=1%5f3%5f4%5f0&SO=1%5f3%5f4%5f0&SO=1%5f3%5f4%5f0&SO=1%5f3%5f4%5f0&SS=Becc&SS=Becc&SS=Becc&SS=Becc&SS=Becc&SS=Becc&SS=Becc&SS=Becc&PN=0) :}
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Dan,
Look at BECC from Cornwall Models , you will need to look through all the items
https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/ss000001.pl?SO=1_3_4_0&TB=O&SS=Becc&PR=-1&SO=1%5f3%5f4%5f0&SO=1%5f3%5f4%5f0&SO=1%5f3%5f4%5f0&SO=1%5f3%5f4%5f0&SO=1%5f3%5f4%5f0&SO=1%5f3%5f4%5f0&SO=1%5f3%5f4%5f0&SO=1%5f3%5f4%5f0&SS=Becc&SS=Becc&SS=Becc&SS=Becc&SS=Becc&SS=Becc&SS=Becc&SS=Becc&PN=0 (https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/ss000001.pl?SO=1_3_4_0&TB=O&SS=Becc&PR=-1&SO=1%5f3%5f4%5f0&SO=1%5f3%5f4%5f0&SO=1%5f3%5f4%5f0&SO=1%5f3%5f4%5f0&SO=1%5f3%5f4%5f0&SO=1%5f3%5f4%5f0&SO=1%5f3%5f4%5f0&SO=1%5f3%5f4%5f0&SS=Becc&SS=Becc&SS=Becc&SS=Becc&SS=Becc&SS=Becc&SS=Becc&SS=Becc&PN=0) :}
HI Dave sorry yes you are right on the companys name yes it is BECC i made a new years mistake first one honest lol an will we see any thing more on the burke ?
chris
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Thanks both! I got them.. wasn't prepared for the 112 pages to search through. Found them on the 110th page {-)
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No much progress, but I've started with the handrails. Mades by measuring and bending 0.5mm brass wire, adding the stanchions and then fitting these to the deck. I think they're just be a neater way of producing the handrails but I'll try and figure that out on the next build. I've also started adding the life raft canisters across the ship
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HI Dan very nice job on the railing hope they will fit on ok :-)) looking forward to more when you get round to it
chris
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HI DAN you have made a crackin job of bringin campbeltown back to life brilliant young gent you are love your hand rails they are very well made as i struggle with mine an did you in the end get the BECC deck yellow an black warning signs ? for her ? as thats what im missin seein on your ship an a bit of colour an on the bridge roof it needs a small union jack flag an i hand painted my badge on the side of the funnell S/S an if you need a pic of it i can send you a pic of it as it sets the ship off but let me know if you do an if u give me your email address i can send you the pic an yes u started this ship when we was all on modelwarships /uk dint you pity that site went down as there were a lot of fanstastic moddelers on there an i still have people askin me what happend to the site so it shows it was very poular
so could we see some update pics of her on here ?
ATB young Dan wish i was your age as im now nr 70 yrs old an getting pains where i never thought id get them lol
ATB
Chris :-))
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Hi Chris, thank for your kind words!
The BECC markings are out of stock everywhere. I did get the Heli pad stencil for when I finish that, and used 2mm under the main gun, but it was tricky to get the radius so for the rest I'll just wait until BECC are available.
I will be putting the union jack's on the deck at a later date. I might try weathering it slightly as at the moment it looks very "flat"
I'll message you my email Chris as any photos are extremely helpful.
These are the latest photos from tonight. Still alot to do, however I do feel like there is light at the end of the tunnel :D
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Its a fine compromise between looking superb until a strong breeze bends them and making them out of silver soldered brass and bankrupting you! They look pretty good to me and should stand up to casual sleeve brushing. :-))
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Looking superb Dan...... :-)) ...
I went back to 30 July 2008 and DSC0036.jpg...have you a fully sealed boxed in hull area below the Heli-pad?...thus to keep the hull watertight should a rogue wave lick over those lower hull openings....
Looking forward to a video of the sleek Gray vessel on the water
Derek
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There's been a couple of gentle sleeve brushes and 9 times out of 10 they've held.up fine, I have knocked them once whilst not paying attention breaking one section off but it was undamaged and went back on no issues at all :-))
Derek, when I first did this part all those years ago I remember flooding it and there were no leaks, however I will be trying it again when I start the water trials as I suspect there may be a few gaps now that I'll reseal. Hopefully all will go well and it'll make for a good video O0
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Coming along very nicely Dan. I am also looking forward to seeing a video of her on the water.
Keep up the good work.
Nige
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Morning all.
A bit more progress albeit slow. I was aiming to have the whole model completed by now but this never goes as planned. I'm still enjoying the build as it continues. Not much of an update, but as you can see, more stanchions have been added and I'm nearing the completion of these.
More bits of detail have been added included the ships boat. You can see some of the brass etched parts I'm using, including the fire hose baskets. Quite fiddly at 1:96 scale but do look very good when painted up and installed in place.
And finally the Heli deck is nearing completion. Just a bit more to do to that and I'll be happy with it.
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HI Dan very well done on this model an she looks very good :-)) an love that motor launch an up to you on this but if i was you paint your wire aieals that stick out in first white an then paint on day glow orange so people dont take their eye's out on the points as thats what i do on all my ships as you dont want people suein you as it can happen at a show or when you are out sailing but if painted bright dayglow orange you can say well they are easy enough to see unless you pay an insurance or in a club for up to a million pound but better safe than sorry eh as i got warned of this as it mostly children that look right close where the danger lies
but a fab model be nice to see her sailin
chris :-)) [size=78%] [/size]
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Hi !
:-)) Very nice realisation !
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Thank you chaps. I may well do something with the antennas Chris as I've almost caught myself whilst leaning over it.
Now that it's nearing completion (still a few more grab rails and small bits of detail to add), I thought I'd see how she sits in the water. I used two 6V lead acid batteries for weight and a few fishing weights because that's all I had to hand. She sits perhaps a bit too low with 2.2KG added, so I'll try 2Kg next time.
However, I've encountered a problem that I'm sure Chris mentioned a while ago. When I add the super structure, she becomes extremely top heavy and very unstable, to the point I had to stop it capsizing. So I'm open to suggestions with this. Is it a case of as much weight as low as possible?
Thanks,
Dan
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Hi,
No sure what ballast you have in it already as sits well on the waterline. On mine I have all the electrics and battery as low as possible but added x 2 @ 0.5kg in two socks one just forward of midships and one under the hanger area.
Keep adjusting and I am sure it will be fine, but they do roll abit.
Rich
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Hi Rich, I've not got the running gear in at the moment as I'm in the process of rewiring it.
For the test I used two 6V lead acid batteries and some fishing weights, a total of 2.2kg. Would lining the lowest points of the hull with ballast help reduce the roll? I'm reluctant to put a keel on it as I want to keep it looking as realistic as possible on and off the water
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Hi,
Definetly dont need a keel, just need to get everything as low as possible but consider Lipo instead of SLA there size does push the centre of gravity higher. Then if you need more just add the weights.
i run on 2s or 3s 8000 lipo and lasts about 90 mins messing around. I also have a stainless rod on the on the T45 fwd to aft right along the inside of the keel..
Rest assured you will get it right.
Rich
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I hadn't even considered using other types of batteries. Thanks Rich, I'll look into the best option then add the extra weight around it
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Happy to help, just drop me a PM/email if I can help further.
Regards,
Rich
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Thank you chaps. I may well do something with the antennas Chris as I've almost caught myself whilst leaning over it.
Now that it's nearing completion (still a few more grab rails and small bits of detail to add), I thought I'd see how she sits in the water. I used two 6V lead acid batteries for weight and a few fishing weights because that's all I had to hand. She sits perhaps a bit too low with 2.2KG added, so I'll try 2Kg next time.
However, I've encountered a problem that I'm sure Chris mentioned a while ago. When I add the super structure, she becomes extremely top heavy and very unstable, to the point I had to stop it capsizing. So I'm open to suggestions with this. Is it a case of as much weight as low as possible?
Thanks,
Dan
HI Dan well in my opinion i dont think you will be any better off with lipo batts as yes they are fairly light but what you need is some wheight in the bottom of the hull to make a counter balance to stop the roll on the ship an in the wind it will be even worst so try layin some thin lead in your hull bottom an fit your SLA BATT back in as with 1/96 its a job to make them float ok as ive sen others with a 1/96 ship an they had problems to as the type 22 in not got much beam so not much stablity as thats why ive never built in 1/96 but just exspirement
chris
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Hi there Dan
I have built one of these models plank on frame many years ago.
Originally the model suffered a similar problem - i.e. as though it was top heavy.
What I did was added lead shot mixed with resin in the stern of the hull round between the two prop shafts and at the bow. This was a big mistake due to the fact that I couldn't remove ballast later on. This was because originally I was running it on 6 volt 1.5 amp lead acid batteries - the thin ones - which used to sit really low in the centre of the hull on their sides. When I came to upgrade the battery to a 6 volt 10 amp lead acid battery, it sat too low in the water (above the black water line) but, I don't know how you are mounting your SLA battery in the hull, BUT, do you realise the battery is heavier at the bottom than at the top - therefore, if the battery is standing up in the hull, you still have a fair bit of weight at the top of the battery which is acting as a fulcrum lever - and this will add to the dis-stability of the hull.
You could try, lying the battery flat and using a small amount of weight to counteract the heaviness of the bottom of the battery. The other alternative is, which I have used now, is this type of battery (see picture) I use two of them in HMS Exeter. Have you noticed what I do, I built a tray for the batteries to sit in and at the bottom of the tray there are two brass strips - these are positive and negative pick ups - which go to the speed controller. On the batteries there are 2 corresponding copper strips which make contact with the strips in the tray. The only thing you have to be careful of is to MAKE SURE THE BATTERIES ARE IN THE SAME polarity - in other words don't short em oot. :-)
The last thing as far as aerials thing is - I use 2 small beads on the ends of the aerials as protectors - this is because I was told a horror story by a modeller at one of the shows about a guy who bent over a model submarine to inspect it and he was stabbed in the eyeball by one the antennas. Still to this day I cringe about it.
Here are couple of pics -
1. I think this is of your model and battery set up
2. One of the model that I made many moons ago
3. The battery set up in HMS Exeter - just to give you an idea.
Last but not least - is the funnel on your model solid resin? - if so, it may pay you to try and drill it out to lighten the weight.
Aye
John
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Hi John!
Thanks for your reply and useful info!
Currently the hull is bare and has no running gear other than the motors so I'm effectively starting from scratch with the electrical side of things. I currently have 2 6v 5Ah batteries which if I use I'd lay them the same way you did to get the weight as low as possible.
I was also looking at the lead shot mixed with adhesive, I think this is a good way forward for the extra weight.
Hi Chris,
It does have a very narrow beam with is undoubtedly causing issues.. 1:72 next time for me, or something bigger any way.
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Hi John!
Thanks for your reply and useful info!
Currently the hull is bare and has no running gear other than the motors so I'm effectively starting from scratch with the electrical side of things. I currently have 2 6v 5Ah batteries which if I use I'd lay them the same way you did to get the weight as low as possible.
I was also looking at the lead shot mixed with adhesive, I think this is a good way forward for the extra weight.
Hi Chris,
It does have a very narrow beam with is undoubtedly causing issues.. 1:72 next time for me, or something bigger any way.
HI Dan yes 1/72 scale in best as i made campbetown up in 1/72 scale an because its in a bigger scale you will have a lot wider hull but be warned that the fleetscale hull is about 7 ft long so i made mine like all my big ships in two half so easy to lift an transport an reember when building the S/S ALWAY build light as i aways build in 1mm thick plasti card an then strenghten it by fittin qauter inch sqaure balsa strips top an bottoms so its a light as poss an same with the masts an then you should not have to worry about the ship rollin about on the water as my cambeltown sailed very nice remember she was the header picture sailin on modelwarshipsuk forum
:-)) chris
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Hi Dan, ref the lead shot, you could place it in 'zip bags' for the ballasting trials and when you're happy you can go ahead and set the shot in resin - of course, you would need to take account of the weight of the resin as well.
Hope this helps you a little.
Ray.
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I would have removable/adjustable bags as I do in both 1/96 & 1/72
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Those are great ideas, thank you both! I'll get them ordered up and 2KG of lead shot should do it
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She looks fabulous! I agree about getting that ballast low, and maybe sacrificing a small amount of freeboard to ensure she stays upright in all but the most extreme turbulence which you would avoid anyway by not sailing in poor weather or when fast electric etc is running.
Its surprising how the little bits of detail like weapons add weight up top.
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Hello there Dan
I am wondering how heavy the superstructure of your model actually is? I am wondering this as I do know I had issues with the model Type 22 which I built with stability - but - this was my own doing as I had left the frames in the hull too high - therefore any batteries which I put in it were at least 3/4" higher than the flat keel to start with - and - this is why I added lead shot to enable the weight to be very low in the hull.
The superstructure on all of my models are made from plywood of various thicknesses from about 1:64 to about 1:16 thick. Also there are various white metal and resin fittings on them. I hasten to add I have never used a 'solid' resin funnel. I have never had any issues with stability ever.
On the type 42 I used to do what I call a 'roll test' where you can twist the boat over onto its side until the water was up onto the main deck. Then I would let go of the model and it would right itself. To watch it roll back and forwards was quite nerve racking - but satisfying to know that if it were in the middle of the lake and you did too sharp of a turn the model would right itself. The only model I have ever had which was 'worrying to watch' was the 1:72 scale HMS Daring from WW2 which was a very narrow hull. In a straight line it was similar to a guided missile - it would run straight and true - but when you tried to turn it whooooaaaa even with independent control props - I am sure I saw her red bottom a few times.
So, check the weight of your superstructure - building in plastic may not be the lightest - I do know a lot of people build in plastic and encounter no problems whatsoever with stability issues.
It would be interesting though to see if someone has built a superstructure for a Type 22 from wood and compare the weight difference. Sadly, I cant, as the model I built has sadly long gone to a new home somewhere :-).
Have a look at the superstructure of the Type 42 that I built - and it is very compatible to yours as in size.
John
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Hi John,
I just got the scales out, 478 grams for the main superstructure and 160 grams for the funnel and it’s superstructure. I can’t weigh the main mast because this Is permanently fixed to the deck but I’d estimate 100-120 grams. I forgot to answer your question in your previous reply, fortunately the funnel is hollow so not much weight in it fortunately.
When I get the lead shot I’ll try the roll test, but at the moment I have zero confidence it would right itself and 100% confident my pond fish would have something new to swim around :embarrassed:
From what everyone has said, I’m confident I can sort the issue as all the running gear and ballast will be sat directly on the floor of the hull.
Going from your photo I bet your type 42 looked fantastic!
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Hi ya Dan
That weight for the superstructure sounds about right; As a last resort I suppose you could lift the black waterline maybe 2 - 3 mm higher; or make the black bandit or the black plimsoll line whatever you wish to call it :-) a little bit thinner and as I have said a little higher up. This will give you a little more wiggle room for weight and nobody will know any different in the middle of the pond. (Nobody's eyesight is that good :-) )
When I get my work bench free of rubbish (which it isn't at the moment) I will bring down HMS York and weigh the superstructure just out of curiosity. Here is a link to the build, if you are interested.
By, doesn't time fly - it was 2009 when I built this one
TYPE 42 BUILD - HMS YORK (modelboatmayhem.co.uk) (https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,15073.0.html)
John
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Hiya John,
That’s always a option no one would ever know :-))
I just had a read through your build, thank you for sharing! Some very useful bits in there and inspiring to have a go at building with wood opposed to plastic although I don’t have the skills to build my own hull... yet.
You started building your type 42 a year after I started this one... it’s about time I got it finished :embarrassed:
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Shot versus sheet ?
If shot is small balls and as an experiment -take two similar sized spherical items and compare them pushed up against each other.
Would not sheet be better as there is no gaps between to push weight further up, I know the resin fills this gap but is not as heavy as the corresponding lead, so would the weight be more concentrated as a mass and take up less space, therefore lower, if a Plasticine copy of the area was taken that the shot or sheet was going in, melting x weight and y weight, and then pouring the corresponding lead into the same shape negative mould in a suitable material would produce a virtual solid lead mass that could be removed when necessary.
Just me thinking inside the box, ignore if complete nonsense. :embarrassed:
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Good point. I have sheet and shot :}
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SO, not complete nonsense then, I know it will be just grammes but, 50g lower than the shot may make a big difference - discuss
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When I was messing about with the boat on my pond, trying to get a rough idea of weights and locations, it only took very small repositions of each weight to make a noticeable difference to the stability of the boat. I think I mentioned before these were fishing weights and two lead acid batteries so the weight was not as low as could possibly be compared to if I use lead sheet or shot. I assume sheet would give me more weight in a smaller area and lower than the shot might, so I guess that it could make a difference. I might order sheet and shot and try both and see what happens. Thanks for the suggestion :-))
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Hi ya Dan, hand on heart I have tried a lot of methods of weights, varying from lead shot, lead sheet, water in bottles, old window sash weights, and a few other mysterious things. To be honest with you, make sure your weight is as low as possible - it doesn't matter what the weight is/how it's made up.
Somewhere on here, there is a great discussion about adding weight to models - where too much weight in the hull at the bottom makes the hull react very quick and it rights itself to the vertical and over responds. The answer is to actually add weight higher up the model - so that the model rolls slowly and more realistically. This has a correct name (but me mind is on melt down trying to sort out an electrical problem). Do a search on this forum and you may find the topic. :-) :} :} :} :D
John
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I made my lead ballast from car wheel balance weights found over a period of time in local gutters. I made a plastacine mould of the shape needed and then cast it in plaster which was allowed to dry for a week (Very important)
I then melted the lead in an old saucepan over a camping stove out of doors (Also very important as lead fumes are poisonous) and poured the melted lead into the plaster mould.
The weight was only to correct a small imbalance but can be used for larger pieces.
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For my own edification I decided to see what the difference was between the same volume of solid lead and lead shot. I filled a container (old yoghurt pot weight 5 gms) wth water and weighed it to get the volume in my case 142cc. This gives a solid lead block of 1611.7gms (lead 11.35g/cc). I then filled the empty pot with lead shot, weight 980gms a 65% difference. So where space is tight solid lead would be preferable for maximim weight.[/font]
However, for ease and speed lead shot in bags is still my preference. As Brian86 has said, making a mould takes several days as the plaster has to be very dry before you pour molten lead into it. Whereas, filling a bag with shot takes seconds. Further, bags can be added, if required, to hard to get to areas even after the deck has been fitted.
I have used both methods shot and sheet. I have also melted lead in the past but found it a faff, not to say a slightly dodgy process.
Just my thoughts.
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Thank you guys, that's all very helpful information. I'm suprised by the amount of difference between the weight for the same volume. Obviously I expected it to be greater, but not that much. Handy to know if your strapped for room!
Im still in two minds what to go with, I'll have the room to use shot in bags so for now I think I can get away without moulding any for now :-))
so after your point about the boat righting too quickly John, perhaps as the bags won't concentrate all the weight flat to the hull, they'll have a bit of depth with them, maybe preventing the rapid correction? I might be completely wrong.. I'll post the results when I get the time to do it
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Very slow progress again unfortunately. However I've just finished making my rudders. Originally the running gear came with some stunning machined metal rudders. However over the years I've misplaced them. After trying to source replacements with no joy, I decided to make them. Externally they are plastic card made to the correct shape. Then filled with high strength resin. Will they be suitable and work, I don't know. But I'm going to try it.
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HI Dan nice to see you back modeling again as i thought you had packed it in but im pleased to see you havnt as i like campbeltown an i dont know where my one in 1/72 scale is now as the chap who bought it off me has sold it so i heard but he put it on u tube an i think its still on there with all the workin features goin in his livin room but dont know if he ever sailed it
ATB
chrisb :-))
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Thanks Chris! I don't think I'll ever stop as such. Trying to balance work and family does mean my progress will be very slow now though. Those rudders were completed over a week where as before they'd have been completed in a few hours minus the epoxy and paint drying time. Im still weighing up muly options for my next build :-))
I do still see your Campbeltown pop up on YouTube every now and then. Hopefully it's still going strong!
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Last night I stripped and refitted the running gear in hope to have the ship in the water this weekend. It was promising but but I failed to get a failsafe working. So I might have to postpone it for another week.
Other than that, a few small bits of detail have been added and I'm fairly happy with how it's looking now, apart from the colour of the decks. I'm in two minds to paint them a darker grey. All I'll be adding now are some deck decals around the weapons when they become available in the shops and the lynx heli when I build the rotor head. Then I'll consider it done.
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It's only taken 15 years but today it finally had its maiden voyage :D I'm glad I decided to restart the build as it's rekindled the spark. I'll admit it felt good to see it move off for the first time since completing it.
The 380 motors gave it a really nice looking scale speed and considering its fairly long and narrow, it had a relatively good turning circle. There's a few minor things that need addressing for next time. Unfortunately a loose coupling ended play early today. But regardless, it's seen the water and sailed well.
Now that this one is completed to a point I'm happy with, I've started putting things together for my next build.
Cheers, Dan
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sounds like POW all over again - did you damage the rudder as well?
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I thought the same, but fortunately not, and I'll get it sorted alot quicker too :-))
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wish I could build to your standard as well O0
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HI Dan very well done an she looks good on the wet stuff an whats your next build goin to be ?
chrisb :-))
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wish I could build to your standard as well O0
Thank you for the kind words!
HI Dan very well done an she looks good on the wet stuff an whats your next build goin to be ?
chrisb :-))
Thanks Chris. It's more than likely going to be HMS Ocean the landing platform helicopter ship at 1:96 scale. That will bring it in at 2114mm length and a beam of about 360mm. I'm not sure if I'm being ambitious or stupid, but it'll be my first scratch build, and like you, I'll probably build it with a split hull for ease of transport.
Cheers,
Dan
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Thank you for the kind words!
Thanks Chris. It's more than likely going to be HMS Ocean the landing platform helicopter ship at 1:96 scale. That will bring it in at 2114mm length and a beam of about 360mm. I'm not sure if I'm being ambitious or stupid, but it'll be my first scratch build, and like you, I'll probably build it with a split hull for ease of transport.
Cheers,
Dan
WELL Dan how big a car have you got as a hatchback is the best i find as thats what ive got
an if you have got a fair sized car then yes build it as it would be great
chrisb
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Hi Chris,
I've got a estate so a bit of room to play with. I could just about fit it in as one model but having it in two halves will make it so much easier to handle. I keep reading through your tiger thread because the way I build it will probably be very similar to your tiger build and you've included alot of information and techniques that will undoubtedly be very helpful to me.
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Hi Chris,
I've got a estate so a bit of room to play with. I could just about fit it in as one model but having it in two halves will make it so much easier to handle. I keep reading through your tiger thread because the way I build it will probably be very similar to your tiger build and you've included alot of information and techniques that will undoubtedly be very helpful to me.
WELL im pleased to have helped you Dan an yes go for it as she looks a very nice ship an in this size you can fit loads of working features
chrisb :-))
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Thanks Chris, I'll keep you updated :-))
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Hi Dan, How the yrs how flown by I have not been on site for years was building the Resolve still not got it done its around 85% built ,back on site noe since the beginning of March I'm doing a new build all in wood got it from Japan its the Battleship Yamato have started putting photos of the build after posting todays went back to home page and saw your name open up and yes its the young Dan I used to know and we follow each there all them years ago from you bedroom I think you have done a great job on the ship first class job hope to chat again. wallace
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Hi Wallace,
Apologies for the delay in replying! I don't build or get on here as much as I'd like! 15 years it's taken to build this ship so I'm not so young anymore and I've gone from building in my bedroom to a garage now {-)
Thanks for the kind words! It's nice to hear from you again!
Cheers, Dan