Model Boat Mayhem
Mess Deck: General Section => Tugs and Towing => Topic started by: Bungie 247 on November 09, 2008, 12:10:43 am
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Hi peeps, from reading the blurb about the Imara I know that she was requisitioned by the Royal Navy during the Second World War and renamed Perseverance. However some new information has come my way that she was based at Devonport and Chatham. Also it has been suggested that in 1958 she was sold to the British Iron and Steel Corporation and renamed Sir Rom. Can anyone confirm if any of that is true? Also does anyone have any further details of her history or (pray with real hard here) photographs?
Regards, Martin.
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Hi everyone
Is there anyone out there building the Caldercraft Imara tug?
I've reached the point where I need to fit the side reinforcings and cross members into the hull and I'm trying to get my head round the instructions which read like this:
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........and this will show how cross beams (365) are fitted, do not notch out for the side reinforcings(367) rather carry them into the rubbing strip channel mouldings......."
As I see it the side reinforcings are occupying the rubbing strip channel mouldings at this point so I can't carry the cross members into the channel mouldings because there's no room!
I'm probably being thicker than usual and can't see the wood for trees but if there is an Imara builder out there I would be glad of his help.
Brian
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Hi Brian,
I did the original Model Boats review of Imara when she was marketed by the original Caldercraft around 1989. I'm not sure if it answers your questions but I can email you a copy if you want. As a Moderator I can see your email address so don't post it on the Forum.
Cheers,
Colin
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Hi Colin
Thanks for the offer of your review of the Imara in the' 89 Model Boats but I have already downloaded it although I can't remember the source.
I've studied it carefully and as you stated at the time the instructions were a bit vague at that point so I'm still struggling!
There are a couple of things I would like to mention though about the present kit, first and foremost the plans are now FULL SIZE!!
The other thing is that the deck is now in two sections not, four but there is still an overlap of about 20mm when placed inside the hull!
Cheers
Brian
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Hi Brian,
To be honest I can't remember what I did back then! Hopefully somebody else will come to the rescue. Best of luck with the build though as she does make up into a really impressive model.
Colin
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Hi Colin
Thanks for your prompt attention in this matter, much appreciated.
Any more Imara builders out there?
Brian
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If my memory is right shipmate 60 used to have one, maybee he could help,he usually is a helpfull chappie......well sometimes ok2
Stavros
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Also see:
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/Gallery/Imara/index.htm
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=12865.0
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=11411.0
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=5377.0
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Many thanks Stavros and Martin, I'll trawl through all the pics on the sites you've given me Martin, and Stavros perhaps your mate will get in touch if he sees this.
Thanks again
Brian
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Stavros,
Yes still got her but bought her completed, will be getting a kit in the new year.
Bob
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also another blog :
http://www.imarablog.org/
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Thanks rats but I don't think Bungie has got to this stage yet, if he has he's yet to post it.
Cheers
Brian
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May be these pics of my recently finished Imara deck beam layout will help.
I made little triangular fillets to fit under the main longitudinal stringers so that the cross members would butt up to the stringer resting on the fillets, just like joists do in a loft conversion at home.plenty strong enough. :-))
neil.
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Hi Neil
You're a pal! Exactly what I wanted, many thanks indeed.
Brian
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Hi Neil
I notice that you have more than five cross members on your Imara, have you had to increase them because you are using steam?
Brian
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There a 'computerised' steam Imara that I;ve seen at a few shows, I'll see if I can find the pictures.
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Not really Brian.
I once had the clumsyness( never got over it really...the clumsyness I mean) to drop a boat hull off a bench that had the minimun cross members fitted, and it all fell apart.
So I build them with a bit of overkill these days, and the deck glues better as well. :-))
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Thanks Neil, good point (not your clumsiness!) I'll beef up my Imara with extra cross members.
Many thanks
Brian
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Good evening all,
I've got to the point in my Imara build where I need to paint the hull red below the waterline.
The favoured colour is red oxide and I'm under the impression that it's obtained from Halfords. After searching my local Halfords for red oxide (store assistants just evaporate when you need them) all I could find was "red primer".
Is this what I need or do I have to look elswhere?
Help please!
Brian
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Hi Brian, yes that is the stuff you want.
Mark.
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Thanks for your help Mark, Halfords here I come!
Cheers
Brian
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In answer to the original question I have attached a photo of the original as she was with the owner she worked her majority of life span with, the Admiralty service working under Captain of the Dockyard Dept of Devonport 1934-44 then Chatham 1944-58. 1958 she was sold to the British Iron and Steel Co, I believe that was a scrap company. During her life she was painted black hull and buff upperworks, the funnel band would have been azure blue, the bulwark band probably white for Guz and azure blue for Chatham. I am fairly certain I saw her as the bow tug pulling out HMS Birmingham from Chatham locks at a very young age, a very memorable sight.
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Good afternoon Imara lovers,
Put my Imara hull on the water for the first time today and I'd appreciate some thoughts regarding the slight problems I'm encountering.
The rudder, which is the standard one as supplied and has a throw of approximately 35/40 degrees was pretty ineffective, due to the massive wash from the props. This resulted in a very poor turning circle, and when the slight breeze caught it turning was problematical to say the least!
So if anyone else has had similar problems and has come up with a solution I'd be glad to hear about it.
Many thanks
Brian
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I found the same thing on the original review model, the rudder was pretty useless! Probably why they brought out the single screw version. The only way I could get her to turn was by using the motors which suggests that a mixer may be the way to go which stops or reverses the inner engine on a turn.
Colin
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Thanks Colin, I think I'll be going down that route unless anyone else has other ideas.
Brian
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Which way do your props turn?
Bob
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I tried that Bob - didn't make a blind bit of difference!
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I agree with Colin
Brian
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Must just be mine then, she turns ok, not great but ok.
Bob
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It may be to do with the prop/motor combination, particularly prop sizes. But rather than try and experiment expensively I reckon a mixer is the best way to go in this case as then you know you will get the maximum turning power which is important in a big model like this. Lot's of info on ACTion's mixer here: http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/pdfs/P40C.pdf
http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/pdfs/P40C.pdf
Colin
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Mixer seems the best way, must agree.
Bob
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Hi Imara builders everywhere
As my Imara build nears completion I'm at the stage where I need to taper the mast and as far as I can see there's no easy way without the aid of some sort of lathe which I don't possess.
So if anyone out there has any ideas I'd love to hear them!
Brian
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Hi Brian,
You can clamp an electric drill in a vice or even a workmate, put your mast in the chuck and work it like a mini lathe.
Have used this method for all sorts of things.
Cheers
Dale.
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Hi Brian I did the same as Dale.
Make sure your mast is over length as the chuck will embed itself in the end.
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Many thanks Dale and Richard, sounds good so I'll give it a go.
Brian
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The drill method is the one I used, but I do have some advice.
The speed doesn't have to be exceptional and sandpaper works a treat. HOWEVER..... do not wrap it around the spinning wood completely as it will SNATCH and may entagle your fingers.
Ensure the trailing edge of the sandpaper is LESS then 180 degrees around the wood. I speak from experiance, as the leading edge caught the tail of the sandpaper and quickly wrapped and reeled the paper (with my hand) inwards and snapped the wood before damaging me too much. (difficult to play the piano for a few days!!)
Whilst working the wood to a taper, stop frequently and try the mast hoops for diameter in their respective places. It's easy to over sand and ruin the piece.
Best of luck
Ken
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Put the sandpaper round a flat file, it gives you far more control and only works in tiny arc.
Bob
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Put the sandpaper round a flat file, it gives you far more control and only works in tiny arc.
Bob
I also use this method, Bob, but found I needed a counter pressure underneath to prevent 'wobble' of the spindle.
Which brings me to ask what to use, as the 'ol fingers' get a little hot with the friction. ( the perfect solution would be a tailstock of some sort)
ken
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If you have a pillar drill grip the mast with sandpaper then you don't have to grip the mast so hard.
If you can push the mast up high into the chuck.
If you cant just use 2 files covered with sandpaper, one on top, the other on the bottom, but sand LIGHTLY.
Bob
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Thanks everyone, all so helpful as usual, I've tapered the Imara mast with a combination of drill, sandpaper and bucketloads of patience!
Brian
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I have a book on the vessels of the Royal Navy & it states the the Perserverance was Single screw,
Nemesis
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Hello, instead of covering a file with sandpaper I use sandpaper covered nail files (finger nails) for the masts. They work great and there is no danger that the sandpaper can catch and cause damage.
Regards
Wilhelm
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sorry nemesis, but you've got the wrong Perseverance then, because Imara was definately twin screw and all RN did was change the name for her service as an RN tug. {:-{
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Hi 'all' just discovered this site wish it was around four years ago when I bought the IMARA tug!!
My build has been on and off all this time and I'm at the stage where, hopefully it'll go in the water this year I
Overall I am fairly impressed with the model but the beast has certainly tested my modelling skills. First the hull then the superstructure etc etc . I like most of us I guess have in many instances deviated from the instructions and used a bit of engineering nouse to achieve success in an alternative manner.
With restect to mast for the smaller mast I sourced a variety of wooden handled paintbrushes removed the bristles. With the main mast I used a power drill to hold the dowl and 120 grade sand paper to achiev a mast that looks the 'bis'
The ships boats were a nightmare but I managed to salvage a pair of boats from the mouldings.
Not impressed with the decking so I managed to find some material in a model shop here in france that I have used as planking and managed to plank the boat using a black cotton as 'caulking' this has taken me hours and I usually sit in front of the tele with a board on my lap styling and sticking down planks. Oh what we do for authentacity!!
Next the white metal bits some of these like the forward steam anchor winch has got me beat. Just when I thought I had cracked it the rotten frame snapped grrr. So if any one can tell me where I can get a replacement look alike winch I'd be grateful.
I haven't yet plonked the beast in the water I was waiting to complete the build before doing this. Reading other posters comments this may not have been a good idea ie it might have been better if I had sourced motors etc fitted these to the hull and tested the operability but hey ho every one to his or her own.
So again if anyone knows where I can source a steam winch I'd be grateful or if nothing else its back to Caldrcraft to source another pack of bits to try again!!
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try these :
http://www.mobilemarinemodels.com/acatalog/Windlass_and_Winches.html
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Hi Polycell
Hope you're enjoying building your Imara as much as I am, but you're right it's very challenging ,and where do all the white metal bits go?!! Mine's nearly finished and I've a number of these to find a home for.
If it's not too late I would strongly recommend that you test her on the water during the build as it's quite a problem to rectify any mistakes especially once the deck's in place.
Thought you may like to see a couple of pics of my Imara, you'll notice that the lifeboats aren't on yet, I've put off the tricky jobs till last!
Brian
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i've just found a series of photos that someone sent me of a build of IMARA.
if anyone would like me to post them, just let me know.
neil. :-))
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hi neil, that would be brilliant if you could.
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i'll start putting them on tomorrow. :-))
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these were sent to me some years ago by a gent called S Clarke from Soffolk, when i bought the model from him'
will post some more on the next posting.
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and the next few :-))
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And that's yerrrr lot, O0 O0 O0 {-) %%
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Got to the stage with my Imara build where I'm trying to make some realistic looking "grab ropes" (don't know the nautical term) for the lifeboats but I'm having no success.
Any help would be appreciated!
Brian
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I have always used on this scale, Brian, 1/32" split flat brass wire( supplied by James Lane stanchions in a roll) and made little eye rings.
Glue these into the thwarts and then string them and tie each loop with a thin cotton.
String and cotton has a twist to the shank, ie. if it is strung the wrong way it will twist out of shape no matter what you do. Most twists go clockwise, and so start stringing yout boat from aft port side, working round to the bow.
On the starboard side, start from the bow and work towards aft.
in that way your rope safety lines won't twist out of shape.
Once strung, a blob of superglue worked into the "rope to give a nice long loop in it will finish it off.
you can just about see the little ring lets on the two boats shown in the pic.
Please excuse the dust, though.lol {-) %% <:( <:(
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Hi NHP651
Many thanks for the "rope" on lifeboats' instructions, looks good so I'll give it a go.
Brian
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WoW so many replies and so many photos :} I am sorry that I haven't been here for a while but it turns out that my "notify" was off and so this is all such a pleasent suprise. Special thanks to rmasmaster for the Perseverance photo, it is so cool to actually get to see the real vessel for the first time. I personally think that the addition of the aft mast makes her look even better, it seems to add overall balance. Does anyone else have any photos of the real deal?
Martin. %%
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There is a picture of my converted Imara to the Navy version Perseverance
As Bungie 247 pointed out it looks better with the rear mast, note also the extra
stove Chimneys and closed bridge because it was sailing in the uk a lot colder that it was original
built for
Duke
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Good morning Duke
I've recently finished my Imara build and am looking for a new challenge! What I have in mind is another Imara (did I hear someone say he must be losing his marbles?) which I would like to convert to the Perseverance.
If you, or any other Mayhemmers could provide me with any information or pics relating to the Perseverance I would be most grateful.
I already have the only photograph (?) available of the original boat, that's the one showing her full length starboard side.
Thanks in anticipation
Brian
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Hi duke ialso put a mast on mine .your model looks great with modified bridge O0 O0
HI brian that is one nice model.
regards John B
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That's a nice model Brian! There is another (B&W) photo of Imara in her guise as Perseverence and taken from the port bow quarter. PM me with your email addy and I'll show you! Incidentally, it clearly shows the anchor very close to the water line. In this photo, she still has an open bridge.
I would have posted a link, but it seems not to work any more.
The further info I have is:
Registered:
425 GRT, displ.12000t, L38,50m (116'9"x28'6"x13') - salv.
2 scr, 2x T3cyl, coal fired, 515ihp each (1100ihp total), sp 12kn, bp 10,5t
IMARA
1930: Built by "Fleming & Ferguson Ltd" at Paisley (GBR)
1930 -20/08: completed for the Crown Colonies at Dar-es-Salam at Tanganyika (price £29,400)
1931 -15/04: delivered to "Tanganyika Railway Co", stationed at Dar-es-Salam at Tanganyika (arrived 11/05/1931)
1932: purchased by the UK Royal Navy, based at Chatham (GBR) under the Captain of Dockyard, renamed PERSEVERANCE
1934: based at Devonport (GBR)
1944: returned to Chatham (GBR)
1958: for breaking up to "British Iron and Steel Corp" (GBR)
1960: broken up
And have you seen George McAuley's pics on this site:
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/Modellers2/george_mc_aulay/index.htm
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Help needed!
I'm looking for four Carley Floats for my Perseverance, each about 100mm long. Don't mind if they're resin or vac formed.
Many thanks
Brian
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What scale is your Perseverance ?
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Dicky,
The Caldercraft Imara is 1/32 Scale.
Bob
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Sorry could only find 1:24 scale.
You could make them with Balsa wood.
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Thanks Bob and Dicky, yes it's the Caldercraft version at 1/32nd scale.
Brian
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Look in Mobile Marine Models, Fellini Fittings
http://www.mobilemarinemodels.com/acatalog/Life_Rafts.html
Carly Float HardyCast
This float can seen on many of the older boats... doubles-up as a deck bench/seat.
L.o.a. 2 1/16"/ 52mm
width. 15/16"/ 24mm
ht. 1/2"/ 12.5mm
Priced at 1.65 sterling
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Hi, this is not so much a reply as a question. I have spent the last hour looking at all the help I can find, but I still can't find the button to press to start a new topic.
(Thanks for any ) Help! :((
Steam Head
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come on Ozzie [steamhead] .....
just back space [ARROW LEFT <-----]
scroll down to your chosen Subject folder from the forum listing
open that & to the top right you see {New Subject}
{-) %%....Derek :-))
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Hi Bungie.
Try this site, it has some very good photo's of Chatham Royal Dockyard based tugs and thier histories.
http://www.riverman.gotdns.com/gallery/index.php