Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => Glue etc. => Topic started by: Bridkid on November 11, 2008, 12:05:19 pm
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Hi guys.
I have had a search around but can't find the answer to my question...............which is the best glue for sticking white metal fittings to a plastic hull? Also, is there any preparation of surfaces? Someone has told me that there is a special resin but it is very expensive.
Cheers,
Ian.
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Hi Bridkid.
I always use superglue never had any problems. Make sure you clean the white metal well and use a good quality superglue. In my collection of models I have Deans Marine Liberty ship completed 1998 all the fittings are superglued in place no problems so far.If you have a scrap piece of white metal try fixing it to plastic card with superglue.
Stan
Kirklees Model Boat club :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
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I also use superglue , thick Zap-a-gap by Pacer.
I've also used quick set epoxy and that works OK too.
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Lets make thatb unanimous then....Superglue it is....or quick dry epoxy.
Barry
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Fibreglass to plastic: two-part epoxy (10 min. or 1 hour).
Plastic to plastic: ordinary plastic solvent (Liquid Poly).
Whitemetal to whitemetal: two-part epoxy (5min.) or thick superglue.
Whitemetal to plastic: two-part epoxy or thick superglue.
Wood to plastic: two-part epoxy, thick superglue or contact adhesive.
Brass to plastic: R/C Modellers craft glue or thick superglue.
Rubber Fender: contact adhesive (UHU, Bostik).
Window glazing: R/C Modellers craft glue.
http://www.modelslipway.com/hintsnTips/hints.shtml
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Thanks guys, I have both so will try each one in turn and see which I prefer.
Cheers,
Ian.
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I also use superglue , thick Zap-a-gap by Pacer.
I've also used quick set epoxy and that works OK too.
Me too. Zap-a-gap every time although I prefer the medium (green bottle) version.
Phil
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I would use CA glue, but i would go for the flexy cyano , impact toughened with a synthetic rubber in the formulation to give higher strength so less chance of small heavy items (for there size) coming off
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Having just found the wonders of cyno (and no longer sticking myself together) I would go down the CA route. Also thanks to you DickyD for now giving me a list of what sticks what, as in the past I've only ever built wooden power boats (plus a few springers)but I'm now branching into a bit of scale. At least now I know it won't all fall to bits
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I second the Zap-A-Gap idea, also Slo-Zap is very good, and some stuff with a red cap I got off ModelPower at llanberis is good stuff too, even though the nozzle has broken off and I now have to use a toothpick.
I will never buy a bottle of thin cyano again, it's stuck me to other parts of me far too many times, and has ruined many a good model.
I did once stick both hands together, and not being one to go to hospital and not having heard of superglue debonder, I decided to remove the hands from each other with a X-Acto blade between my teeth....