Model Boat Mayhem

Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => Other Technical Questions... => Topic started by: portside II on May 06, 2009, 12:28:03 am

Title: windows and glazing
Post by: portside II on May 06, 2009, 12:28:03 am
Up to now i have either blacked windows with sticky back plastic or used perspex within the frames , my last way was with some clear plastic from some packaging but this tends to come unstuck after a while .
Is there a source of clear plastic that will bond to styrofoam / ply without going milky , i tend to use either super glue or liquid polly to bond .
daz
Title: Re: windows and glazing
Post by: Proteus on May 06, 2009, 12:34:05 am
there is a glue called cannopy Glue that stays clear and does not cause foging ,Delux have a modelers glue thay say is ok as well and five star adhesives does a good one and he is a member 

20g Thick Odourless cyanoacrylate cyano superglue Foam Safe Non Fog


https://sslrelay.com/s159915426.oneandoneshop.co.uk/sess/utn;jsessionid=154a00ccc040c5f/shopdata/index.shopscript

Proteus
Title: Re: windows and glazing
Post by: Peter Fitness on May 06, 2009, 05:50:10 am
I use the canopy glue Proteus mentioned. It is produced for aeromodellers to attach canopies to their aircraft, as the name suggests. It does dry clear, and has given me good results.

As far as the glazing material goes, I have used clear packaging, CD cases, and the last job was done with clear polycarbonate sheet, obtained from a hobby shop. All have been satisfactory, and I believe the key to success is the use of the correct, non-fogging, glue.

Peter.
Title: Re: windows and glazing
Post by: John C on May 06, 2009, 07:52:01 pm
At the NE show recently, I got into a conversation on this subject.
I was told that if you put floor sealer (the sort that gets applied in hospitals after they've used those machines with the scotchbrite mops, to bring the floor back to a shine) onto these cloudy windows they will clear.
Haven't tried it yet though.

John C
Title: Re: windows and glazing
Post by: portside II on May 06, 2009, 10:33:03 pm
Interesting the use of cd cases , i would never have thought of that   :-)) .
I will have to try some of the canopy glue , but will it bond the thin glazing plastic wrapping from packaging that i use ? ,
the only reason i use that stuff is its free and it can be fitted quickly without the need for acurate measuring  :embarrassed: .
daz
Title: Re: windows and glazing
Post by: sentry on May 06, 2009, 11:15:13 pm
You can use the clear disc's you get on the end's  of cd cake's  and have heard if you blow warm air over clear plastic as you glue it with super glue it will not fog  but have never tryed it yet,  I coat my plastic with a product called KLEAR made by Johnson wax before I fix them with super glue never had one fog yet. It's a floor polish very thin and drys in seconds,  the old formula is best  and wilco's may still have some of it 500ml bottle will last you years and only a few quid.
                                                           Regards,
                                                               Sentry.
Title: Re: windows and glazing
Post by: Peter Fitness on May 06, 2009, 11:20:19 pm
will it bond the thin glazing plastic wrapping from packaging that i use ? ,

I think it would, Daz. It's worth a try anyway, perhaps on some scrap material first.

BTW, no need to be embarrassed about using packaging material, in today's world it's called recycling.  :-)) In modelling terms it's called smart thinking.  O0

Peter.
Title: Re: windows and glazing
Post by: portside II on May 06, 2009, 11:47:39 pm
Hmm recycling , thats a better way of putting it  %) , i thought i was just been tight fisted O0 .
Malcom i will have to try the floor polish and see how i get on   :-)) .
daz
Title: Re: windows and glazing
Post by: barriew on June 01, 2009, 06:21:50 pm
I have started to use a strip of clear material, from whatever source, across a number of windows, or just one, and attach it using double sided adhesive tape. You can buy quite heavy duty tape meant for sticking carpets, or there is a Scotch brand version which is thinner. Both seem to work OK, although I have to say I usually build in plastic card - not sure if it would stick to wood. I'll find out when I get to glazing the current project - Swordsman from FLJ's plans.

Barrie