Model Boat Mayhem
Mess Deck: General Section => Model Boating => Topic started by: Tralee on October 18, 2006, 10:20:03 am
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As I am new to modelling i would like some advice on painting an ABS model.
I am in the process of constructing a Robbe Najade model and enquireas to whether or not this ABS hull requires and undercoat before the final coat of paint. Any help from fellow modellers would be appreciated
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You will need a primer.
I assume you will be using acrylic paints. There is another thread on here about paints and Halfords cans seem to be a favourite choice.
You should also key the hull the sandpaper to help the paint stick.
320 grad sandpaper should do it.
But I am sure you will get a wealth of advice on here, try trawling throught some of the other threads as well.
Good luck :)
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Right it is quite simple really,go down to your friendly local motor factors that sell AUTOMOTIVE paint to the body shops,such as Brown Brothers or Partco and ask for a plastic adhesion promoter 3M do an excellent on as does Body line,these products are available in aerosol form and are used by body shops prior to spraying bumpers and plastic panels.All you do with the stuff is simple spray on 1 coat,leave to dry,DO NOT RUB DOWN,then spray on as many coats of primer as necessary,rub down primer with 180grit wet dry following up with 400 then 600 and spray as many top coats as necessary.whilst you are at the motor factors buy some panel wipe,this is used to degrease the model,wipe on wipe off simple as that,ah ha I hear you say a gallon!!!! yes it will last for years and is handy for all forms of degreasing,also buy some TAC rags for getting rid of the dust on the model(used by professional paint sprayers prior to any application of any paint ;)).
It is well wotrh getting all this stuff before starting to rub down your model,as it is well advised to degrease with panel wipe prior to rubbing down as the last thing you need is to rub in any grease into the plastic,rub the hull down with 600 no coarser prior to the application of the adhesion promoter etc,if you need any more info just either post it or PM me.I do know what I am talking about due to the fact that I am a professional paint sprayer.
Stavros.
Information is free,actual work is not
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Stavros, just out of interest:
A standard primer doesn`t make any sense? It has to be a plastic adhesion promoter?
Jörg
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Admiral
Made sense to me, sir. Maybe read it again tomorrow? :-\ Meanwhile, big thanks to Stavros for info; this one gets archived 8).
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White Ensign read the post it is as I have said Adhesion promoter first,primer second,it does not have to be plastic primer,as you have allready applied a promoter,Any primer will do.If you all use this system you will be amazed by the finish you will get.The promoter will allow the primer to lie smoother on the surface believe you me,if you do not believe me I think it was shipmate 60 who took my advise,someone out there did and was very impressed.Believe you me IT WORKS,hundreds of body shops cant be wrong or can they
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Hi Stavros- sorry, looks like we have crossed our wires- now I`m with you.
O.k- will go for that as my son wants to spray his boat next week. Though I am glad for any advice in that way as I never use to work with plastics... :P
Thankyou.
Jörg
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Stavros would you also use this system on styrene plastic kits as well? :-\
Roy
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depends what colour you need but if its a bright gloss try international japlac its for plastic as well as wood and metal and ive found it doesnt need any primer .it covers great and adheres well to plastic but it only comes in gloss so its ok for speed boats yaghts etc.its also easy to apply with a brush and leaves no brush marks ,does what it says on the tin!!.
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MTB I would use this system on any plastic as the 3m adhesion promote ris the dog's whatsits!!!!!!
White Ensign ;) :D :D :DNO PROBS
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My mate is a sprayer, well thats a nice little job for him this weekend. ;D
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laserblue make sure he does not put the oven on bake after spraying emphasise that to him
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Stavros,
Correct me if i'm wrong but the plastic promoter, does it not also bind the paint to the plastic so it will not crack or peel off...
Roy
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cbr900 10/10 that is exactly what it does go to the top of the class and don't pass go ;)
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MTB I would use this system on any plastic as the 3m adhesion promote ris the dog's whatsits!!!!!!
Good stuff then Stavros. :) I'm restoring a plastic Robbe "Wotan" hull at the moment. Would a coat of this also benefit a previously painted hull that appears to have NOT been primed (black gloss coat coming off in a couple of places). I think I will take it back to a bare finish and start again at around 400 or 600 grit? :-\
Thanks for your help
Roy(London)
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MTB yes do it take all the paint off with 180 grit,yes I know it leaves scratches 3m adhesion promoter,primer 2to 3 coats to cover finish off with 600 wet dry,if rubbing down wet leave to dry off for at least 24hrs in warm place then paint with your final colour.You can also rub primer down dry but for goodness sake wear a mask and change your paper often
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Stavros,
You ought to write a piece for one of the modelling magazines. The practical advice you have on painting matters would be immensely useful to a lot of people.
Colin
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I suppose i would do it if asked!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Stavros, I've sent you a PM.
Colin
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Stavros,
You ought to write a piece for one of the modelling magazines. The practical advice you have on painting matters would be immensely useful to a lot of people.
Colin
Excellent suggestion Colin.
Stavros I'm asking !!! :-* :-*
Let us know where and when 'cause it's going to be a must. "The definitive article of model painting" by Stavros. (Can't wait) ::) ::) ::)
And why not put it on MBMayhem????????????????
Much thanks for your help Stavros
Roy (London)
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Oh flippin eck my big mouth or in this case my little finger have got me into trouble again,I will start to write something for the model mags I will keep it on file so if it is not published it will appear here .Or do you want it here and not in the mags the choice is yours
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Stavros
Why not go for both (or are there copyright probs once offered to a mag) that way you should reach the widest possible audience and educate even more modellers :)
Happy scribbling
Doug
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Go for the mag Stavros. If it is published most people will read it anyway and you will get a few pennies in compensation.
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Stavros,
You being the author should have the authority to place it in any position as long as you let people know it appears in other publications...
Thats what happens over here anyway...
Roy
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I think you will find that magazines will require articles to be offered to them on an exclusive basis. However, once publication has taken place you are free to offer it elsewhere.
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How about this Stavros ;)...........write it for the mags' ('cause you might get a couple of bob, always handy for new project materials - like paint?) then do a follow up on Mayhems pages of a re-write answering all the silly questions we ask after reading the first edition?
Not too good for you because of the extra writing but could finish up the REAL difinitive version of what we would all like to know!!! :o ;D ;D
Roy (London)
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OK OK OK I will do it,flippin heck typer's cramp seems to spring to mind.I will start to write this article this weekend,I think I will have to think this one out,back it up with a few photo's etc.Hopefully you lads will see it in print next year sometime.If it will not be used I promise thta I will have it on the Mayhem site instead,dont forget lads I will expect you all to bow when you talk to me at shows.I will be the one looking haggard after all the writing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Yes Stavros, lots of photos - mags won't be interested otherwise. A picture is worth a thousand words and given that many people don't read too well these days...
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OK OK OK I will do it,flippin heck typer's cramp seems to spring to mind.I will start to write this article this weekend,I think I will have to think this one out,back it up with a few photo's etc.Hopefully you lads will see it in print next year sometime.If it will not be used I promise thta I will have it on the Mayhem site instead,dont forget lads I will expect you all to bow when you talk to me at shows.I will be the one looking haggard after all the writing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I'm going to my first ever show at the IMBS on Saturday 11th Nov'. :-[ I presume an encouraging pint might not go amiss should you deign to meet your adoring public there? :-* :-*
Roy (London)
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talking of paint finnish i just primed my higgins boat hull and the primer hasnt dried its still tacky after 48 hrs.i epoxy coated the hull then sanded and applied the primer,its just an outdoor grade primer for wood or metal .any ideas on why this has happened?ive never had this happen before but then ive never used this primer before either.im thinking i might need to remove it all and start again with a different paint,i got this one from wilkinsons and its there own brand so dont buy it!!.
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I would personally remove it.
Having been in the building industry for more years than I care to remember I would say this normally occurs if the paint is applied to a greasy or contaminated surface
{ presumably not so in your case} or you have a dodgy batch of paint. {more likely to happen with cheap own brands.}
I would play safe.
Richard :(
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Have to agree with Richard remove completely and wash with prepsol then repaint with a proper primer...
Roy
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Thers a first Roy :o
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thanks guys whats the best way to remove it? white spirit,turps or something else?.im taking this paint back to the shop this week i beleive its dodgy like you say.it wasnt even cheap i wish id got a known name now.i paid 8 quid for it .
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I would start with the white spirit and see how you get on.
I dont think it will affect the epoxy though Roy will probably correct me if I am wrong, ;)
Richard 8)
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thanks mate ill have a go and see how i get on,any suggestions on a good primer i can use instead of this one?.
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I use Halfords Plasti-kote spray cans for primer and gloss. You presumably wont use the gloss.
You really want one that goes with the rest of your paint ie. enamel ,acrylic or whatever.
Richard 8)
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I use Halfords Plasti-kote spray cans for primer and gloss. You presumably wont use the gloss.
Richard 8)
cheers i can get the same plasticoat from wilkinsons its probably cheaper i only hope they will give me a refund on this paint i allready have.i dont supose the cold temperature had anything to do with the paint not drying? or maybe not mixing the paint enough before using it?.i shook the tin up before i used it but i never stired it.
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You were supposed to stir it!! :o :o
Richard
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Martin,
After what just happened I thought you would have learned a lesson, cheap paint cheap finish, and your going back for more, not a good idea,,,
Roy
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Martin,
After what just happened I thought you would have learned a lesson, cheap paint cheap finish, and your going back for more, not a good idea,,,
Roy
when i said cheap i meant cheaper than halfords but same paint lol,but its possible i didnt mix this paint well enough so i may try it again after stiring it .ill paint a small area and see how it goes if it doesnt dry i know its the paint and not me ;D.i have used the plasticoat paints on an epoxy hull before so i know they are ok.
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Well here goes
1 You did not stirr the paint,megga mistake,all the driers sink to the bottom inc pigment,so it will NEVER dry
2 You have hit the nail on the head when you said cold temp,as temp and humidity affect paint drying time
3 Wash off the hull with either white spirit,cellulose thinner or acetone none of these will effect the epoxy coating
4 reprime wiht plasticoat paint
5 Rub primer with 600 grit wet dry
6 Spray with top coat
7 Pat yourself on the back and go for a weel deserved pint ;)
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Hi Stavros
Really glad you confirmed my thoughts I was hoping you would show up.
Richard :)
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I hope to be spraying my Missouri hull this week, so I have taken Stavros's advice and got all the bits he mentioned, including a 5 litre can of Panel Wipe, its brilliant at de-greasing kitchen cooker hoods, my wife is most impressed, I can see that I shall have no problem getting through 5 litres.
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Well here goes
1 You did not stirr the paint,megga mistake,all the driers sink to the bottom inc pigment,so it will NEVER dry
2 You have hit the nail on the head when you said cold temp,as temp and humidity affect paint drying time
3 Wash off the hull with either white spirit,cellulose thinner or acetone none of these will effect the epoxy coating
4 reprime wiht plasticoat paint
5 Rub primer with 600 grit wet dry
6 Spray with top coat
7 Pat yourself on the back and go for a weel deserved pint ;)
cheers mate ive just stired the bloody stuff and done a test patch to see if it dries before doing the whole boat!!,ill have that pint anyway .i cant believe i didnt stir the darn paint though i should know better.
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:)