Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Working Vessels => Topic started by: Minime on August 10, 2009, 08:27:18 pm
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Hi everyone, I just started on a model kit of the tugboat Yorkshireman/Irishman. Seeing that I was gonna need help I made a google search and found this nice lookin' forum. I got the model as a gift a couple of years ago and my dad was suppose to build it, but never got so far %) So now I have decided to get it done.
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Hi Minime welcome aboard, you should find all the help you need with your build on here and also a lot of help you probably wont need.
When you do a build we require plenty of photos.
Good luck with the build.
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Minime,
The Yourshireman makes up into a fine seaworthy model.
Just take it 1 step at a time and you will be fine.
Bob
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Thanks for the welcome. I'm just doing what the manual tells me too, but I have already run into a problem. I need to make bowthruster and anchor holes, but I don't know how. Is there any tutorial and where should I post my questions?
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Are you having a working bow thruster?
If so you will have to cut and file to fit this.
Are you talking about the pipe the Anchor Chain passes through (The Hawse Pipe) or the box that the anchor sits in when stowed?
Bob
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I'm probably not gonna have an working bowthruster but I still want the tube fitted. The bow that the anchor sits in is the one I need to cut. Also I know this is gonna sound stupit, but what is filler? And what is a good brand to buy?
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To fit a bow thrust it is easier to fit a plastic tube right through the hull.
Mark up the centre of where you want to fit it and drill out a slightly smaller hole.
The hole wont look round, don't worry about this it is the shape of the hull doing this.
Open up the hole with a file till it is a good fit with the pipe sticking out of the hull.
Again if it isn't don't worry.
With the tube in the hull apply a little superglue to hold it in place.
Let the glue garden.
Any gaps will have to be filled from the inside with filler.
FILLER, I use P38 car body filler for these operations
Now leave it overnight to really harden off.
Cut off the excess pipe and file and sand to the shape of the hull.
Fill any small imperfections with P38 and fare in with wet and dry paper used wet.
It doesn't take long, it is harder to explain than do.
The Anchor Recess is just a box fitted inside the hull.
Cut the parts to fit and shape as necessary. Fix to the hull with superglue.
When the glue is fully dry go over the joints inside the hull with P38.
On the outside fill in any imperfections with P38 and file, sand off.
Always remember with filler, the more you put on the more you have to sand off, so use sparingly on the outside.
The inside of the hull part cant be seen so no need to sand off just ensure there is enough to give the joint good strength.
Bob
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ah thanks for the answer, so just to ensure I'm not gonna do anything wrong I dril a whole smaller than what is marked on the hull and file out to where it is marked?
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Yup, then if you go slightly over, you can fill with the filler and sand off after.
Paul... :-)
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great thanks, then maybe I'll get it sorted tomorrow.
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Welcome to the best Model Boat site and Forum ever :-))
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Thanks garston1, so far the site has seemed extremely kind and useful.
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Thanks for the welcome. I'm just doing what the manual tells me too, but I have already run into a problem. I need to make bowthruster and anchor holes, but I don't know how. Is there any tutorial and where should I post my questions?
Following on from Bob's advice, ( which I cannot add any more), here are some pictures of my build to give you the idea.
Hope this helps
ken
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thanks for thos pictures and also thanks for moving the topic to the correct place Martin :-)
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Here are the first update, drilled both anchor holes and now I'm almost done filing and then I'l dry/wet sand it.
pic 1: The kind of drill I used, was this a good one? I think I'm gonna use a normal drill for the bowthruster holes.
(http://i32.tinypic.com/102mbn6.jpg)
and the holes on the next 2 pics
(http://i30.tinypic.com/nzfu9t.jpg)
(http://i25.tinypic.com/2rxyyol.jpg)
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Never use the flat bit, this is meant solely for timber, you were lucky you didnt damage the hull.
A twist bit is the one you want.
If there is anything you dont know ---------- ask. The only silly question is the one you didnt ask.
We are here to help Minime, ask any question, someone will have the answer.
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I think you would be better using a Morse Twist Drill (the correct name for your everyday drill) for the next job. Rather than go for one large hole I would mark out a hole slightly smaller that that required and drill a ring of small holes as close to each other as you can get and all inside the marked hole. Then join them up and file to size with some emery cloth wrapped around a large diameter dowel. First mask the area to be drilled with some kind of sticky tape ( a type you can draw your hole on). This stops the tip of the drill from slipping when first applied.
Roger in France.
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Morse is actually a generic name for the twist drill, like Hoover [vacuum cleaner] and Biro [ball point pen.
More useless information. %)
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thanks for all the replies, I was a bit worried my self with that drill and didn't amke a complete hole with, moslty just filed out to the edges. I'm about to glue the sites of the anchor on now, pictures tonight maybe, if I have enaugh to show.
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Since I'm soon ready to put the engines in the boat, according to the manual I need to find out which ones. It recommended that I use twin decaperms I think the name was or Mabuchi 545, but there is a huge different in the prices. So far I've discovered that the mabuchi is about 10£ each, while the decaperms were about 90£ I think, so what should I go for? Also what do you use for rudder pumps? Said nothing about it in the manual. And the last question what rc gear should I use? I'm talking about the batteries and controllers and everything that needs to be included. I want to be able to control both engines with different speeds.
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sorry to bump this topic again, but after a couple of months I can start on it again, have been too busy with homework and stuff lately, but I found some time to do this again. As said in the previous post, I am about to buy some electrical stuff soon, I've been talking to a guy who seems to know about this so I hope to get it sorted with him, but I'd love if you guys could give me some suggestions.
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Hi minime's welcome to the forum mate,
looking at the write up you have on motors I would say use 2 viper marine 20 amp speed controllers for each motor,
and I use a FUTABA FP-R115F 40 mhz reciever with futaba servos, hope this helps mate,
geoff.
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thanks I'll be taking a closer look at that in the morning, right now some sleep wouldn't do much harm.
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DickyD would recommend this set-up (wouldn't you, Richard?!!!!):
http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/pdfs/Slipway%20Dutch%20Courage.pdf (http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/pdfs/Slipway%20Dutch%20Courage.pdf)
555 or 755 motors would also suit, if you don't like the idea of geared motors. Food for thought anyway.
FLJ
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DickyD would recommend this set-up (wouldn't you, Richard?!!!!):
http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/pdfs/Slipway%20Dutch%20Courage.pdf (http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/pdfs/Slipway%20Dutch%20Courage.pdf)
555 or 755 motors would also suit, if you don't like the idea of geared motors. Food for thought anyway.
FLJ
I would Dave and so would many more people on the forum, a really excellent set up.
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/DickyD_photos/Al%20Khubar/DSCF0158.jpg)
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=19615.0
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so the items on that diagram should work for the tug? Also how much would that cost about? And I can control both engines separately with that setup?
Also one last question, I live in the faroe island, there are 2 rc shops I think, which probably are quite expensive, where do you suggest I order from to get it for a fair price?
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If you click on the ACTion logo at the top of the Homepage of the forum then you can find out what the P94 does by following the links from their homepage through to Products pages etc. The Faroe Islands are outside the EU so you can obtain the items free of UK VAT. They are not available from any shop.
You will also find a contact link on the ACTion Homepage.
FLJ
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ah thanks, not sure what I'd do without this forum.
edit: The P94 says it controls 2 main engines thruster, still don't understand if it controls them separately or if I have to get something else, since it's important that I can in fact control them separately
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The P94 has 4 different modes that affect the motors in 4 different ways .
I have the same set up as FLJ recommended on the Action sight and my tug will spin on its axis if necessary.
It only needs a 2 channel radio and it incorporates the speed controllers.
Any queries phone Dave at Action and he will help you out. [opening hours only.]
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ah thanks, not sure what I'd do without this forum.
edit: The P94 says it controls 2 main engines thruster, still don't understand if it controls them separately or if I have to get something else, since it's important that I can in fact control them separately
Why not take some time to read the article on the website? http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/pdfs/Twins%20Ver2.pdf (http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/pdfs/Twins%20Ver2.pdf)
It should hopefully answer any further questions for you.
FLJ
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The P94 is 2 x 20 amp speed controllers and an integrated mixer so everything is contained within 1 box.
Dip switchesm allow the selection of different operations so it can be used in 4 ways.
Bob
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ah k, I'm noting the prices down now, this seems a nice setup. I am going to order everything I need as soon as possible.
edit: didn't see the last two posts, but thanks, it explains a lot.
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sorry for the double post, someone suggested the Robbe F14 Navy rafio system. I found a nice price on a danish website. The package would include a double stick(which is one of the reasons I feel like I must have it), a servo S 148, and some other stuff which sounds nice, here is a link for the website for anyone who reads danish http://modelskibet.dk/product.asp?product=8
so what do you think?
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Whats the price in GBP. Translated the rest of the page but not the price.
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the price would be about 235£, tax and shipping stuff not included(that adds quite a bit to it usually). Though I'm not sure how many DKK 1 £ is, I'm just guessing 1 £ is about 8,5DKK. We also use DKK in the faroe islands btw.
Edit: I'll try to have some pictures up as soon as pssible, about to drill the holes for the propeller shaft and that block that holds the nozzle in place.
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I'm going to buy some stuff tomorrow which I need for building this. Though I'm not sure exactly what I need, so could some please be kind and write me a list. What I need is what sort of sandpaper, glues, fillers and basically all those things. Would also be nice if someone could tell me what paint they used, if something is better than what the manual says.
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Hi Minine,
The Robbe F14 Navy 'double stick' is a very high end radio set (many clever functions ... that you may never use) but it's only 40 Mhz (not the more future proof 2.4Ghz). Before investing in that particular radio, better to canvas opinions on here as I hear it's actually not that easy to use in practice......
( For that kind of money I'd bethinking about a Skeptrum Spektrum or Futaba 2.4Ghz radio set )
BTW: http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/Common/Robbe_F14/index.html
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I've long suspected that the twin-stick F14 would be a pain to use in practice. You would either have to use the forefingers and thumbs of both hands on the split sticks (in which case you've nowt left with which to operate the rudder) and there's no "natural" control to operate the bow thruster e.g. a second lateral stick.
With a conventional Tx at least you can use the LH stick up/down for the port motor and the RH up/down for the starboard. That way you have the RH lateral stick movement for steering and the LH one for the thruster.
P94 was designed to eliminate the need for three channel to control the motors and steering although, as Bob says, you can select "tank steering" mode if you wish. Typically you would use one of the two mixer modes and control the steering with the RH stick, and the throttles and bow-thruster with the LH stick. That leaves you a spare channel (RH stick up/down) for lights, horn, winch etc.
I would go along with Martin to a certain extent i.e. the F14 Twin Stick isn't wonderful value for money and looks awkward to use, but I don't imagine there's much of a frequency clash problem in the Faroe Islands! The standard F14 with two dual-axis sticks would be a far better buy IMHO. The F-series sets also have the advantage of being very expandable by adding the encoder/decoder modules.................but there may be another solution to adding multiple channels sometime in the not-too-distant future %)
As regards building the model, I think there's a useful Building Hints and Tips section on Model Slipway's website.
FLJ
BTW That's "Spektrum"............... ;)
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F14 for sale here - not mine! - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ROBBE-FUTABA-F14-NAVY-REMOTE-CONTROL-UNIT-MODEL-BOAT_W0QQitemZ300413008500QQihZ020QQcategoryZ2564QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3911.m7QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D3%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D8947220767279920222
There was also one on this forum for sale page.
I have an f14 navy and think its great. No frequency clashes - most people are switching to 2.4 gigglehz new fangled stuff, leaves lots of free 40mz slots :-))
Ian
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Ian
Just as a matter of interest, how do you manipulate the twin sticks? Do you take one hand off the RH stick or do you somehow juggle the twin sticks with the fingers of your left hand?
FLJ
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FLJ,
I use my thumb and first finger on my left hand most of the time, occasionally I use my right hand, as when using twin throttle for tight turning, the rudders often aren't needed.
Ian
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P94 sounds a hell of a lot easier. O0
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Thanks for all those suggestions, they are really helpful. But I guess you need as much advice as you can with your first build.
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ok, I have started on a little list of possible items to buy. So far most are from a danish website and under the price of 300DKK, which means that on the way to the Faroe Island, there will be no tax, since it's not more than 300DKK. So I will be purchasing many separate orders to avoid taxes.
btw 300DKK is only about 35£.
- Controller Navy V30R, waterproof, max 12v 30A or Controller Navy V15R, waterproof, max 12V15A. They are both under 300DKK, but I'm not sure which to buy or if they are good enough. Also do I need 1 for each motor and 1 for the bow thruster?
-MFA/Como Torpedo 500 12V(nice price and no tax added when it arrives)
-servo, it says it's 16g and should fit all model ships. here's a link, you might understand the technical info http://modelskibet.dk/product.asp?product=6345
- bowthruster, not sure about which one to get, could you suggest anyone which is under 35£, though if not prices above 35£ are most welcome too.
- battery Power Sonic 12 volt 17 Ah blybatteri, seems quite big, maybe too big? This was the only thing I could find, any suggestions are welcome(as always). http://modelskibet.dk/product.asp?product=2805 specs shouldn't be too hard to read.
so there are still probably a lot of stuff which I need, but that was what I was thinking. Please point out stuff that might be wrong in that list and what needs added. Remember that's not a permanent list, I just try to keep what I can under 300DKK/35£.
BTW, I am still looking at the ACTion pdf with that system, I really like it, even though parts of them were over the mentioned price, but I guess quality is better than cheap price.
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Ok, I had a second look at the action pdf. Then I realized how good the P94 actually is, maybe a little bit expensive, but not the whole world. though I didn't like the P93 very much, seems a bit pricey just for controlling a thruster, and I'm not sure what I need all those functions for. So is it possible to connect something else than the P93 and go with the rest of the stuff on that diagram? Also there are some wires with a component on the ESC's that say Rx motor channel, Rx steering channel and rx bow thruster channel, are these plugged into the receiver?
Also will the people at ACTion mind if I order several orders in order to avoid taxes? Like purchasing the motors separately, the power distribution board could come with the fuses, P94 and possibly the P93 could come to getter since the prize is already above my tax limit.
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Also there are some wires with a component on the ESC's that say Rx motor channel, Rx steering channel and rx bow thruster channel, are these plugged into the receiver?
Yes.Also will the people at ACTion mind if I order several orders in order to avoid taxes?
No.
FLJ
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k then, I think I will email them about the motors today and place an order. not sure if they are open today or not, but an email shouldn't do any harm.
btw I will add some photo's soon, now that I can upload them on my computer.
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Not sure if they are open today or not, but an email shouldn't do any harm.
Try sending an E-Mail; you never know 8)
FLJ
BTW P93 is cheaper for controlling a 7.2v thruster from a 12v supply than the alternative i.e. purchasing a slightly cheaper speed controller and also a separate 7.2v battery.
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Try sending an E-Mail; you never know 8)
FLJ
BTW P93 is cheaper for controlling a 7.2v thruster from a 12v supply than the alternative i.e. purchasing a slightly cheaper speed controller and also a separate 7.2v battery.
ah didn't know I havve to do that. Btw the email has been sent with some info, but not any card details. So when can I expect these motors here in the faroe islands?
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Here are some pics I just took.
(http://i40.tinypic.com/ezmv5u.jpg)
(http://i43.tinypic.com/2u7osvq.jpg)
(http://i44.tinypic.com/v74f1x.jpg)
(http://i40.tinypic.com/34ot400.jpg)
next job would be after gluing the shaft, rubbing down the hull, should have done this earlier, but didn't.
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Ian
Just as a matter of interest, how do you manipulate the twin sticks? Do you take one hand off the RH stick or do you somehow juggle the twin sticks with the fingers of your left hand?
FLJ
Two fingers and the thumb of the left hand work the throttles without problem and it seems to be an intuitive movement - well it is for me. Thus using right hand for rudder and bow thrust is not a problem.
As for Martin's 'future proof' ambitions, I'm still using two 7-channel Fleet 40MHZ sets which show no signs of fading. They still get reasonable prices on Ebay, I note.
Looking at the hull shape where the two shafts emerge has left me scratching my head. I built my Yorkshireman from scratch using the original shipyard lines plans and arrangement drawings. Although I have since passed on the plans to others on this Forum, I don't recognise those shapes.
Barry M
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Two fingers and the thumb of the left hand work the throttles without problem and it seems to be an intuitive movement - well it is for me. Thus using right hand for rudder and bow thrust is not a problem.
As for Martin's 'future proof' ambitions, I'm still using two 7-channel Fleet 40MHZ sets which show no signs of fading. They still get reasonable prices on Ebay, I note.
Looking at the hull shape where the two shafts emerge has left me scratching my head. I built my Yorkshireman from scratch using the original shipyard lines plans and arrangement drawings. Although I have since passed on the plans to others on this Forum, I don't recognise those shapes.
Barry M
those shapes are to glue on, maybe to make it easier or something like that.
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Minime
Just in case you were not aware FullLeatherJacket is Action Electronics, so his advice on the producst comes from the fact he makes them and very good they are to. Never had a problem with anything I have brought from him. :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
Brian
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Thus using right hand for rudder and bow thrust is not a problem.
So which stick movement do you use for the bow thruster? Is it independent using the Up/Down axis (which requires you to remember which way is Left etc) or have you coupled the bow-thruster to the rudder command?
I can't see Anfinn having many frequency clashes where he lives, so the F14 40Meg should do - as long as he really needs the option of all those extra functions. I'd buy a 6-channel Laser meself................
Afraid I can't shed any light on the shapes at the back. I just drew on the plan and instructions the parts that Lawrie sent; he and Dave Metcalf designed the thing in the last century (he'll love that!). However, as Dave might tell you, you can't see the bits underneath when it's in the water. %)
.............and thanks, Ching!
FLJ
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Minime
Just in case you were not aware FullLeatherJacket is Action Electronics, so his advice on the producst comes from the fact he makes them and very good they are to. Never had a problem with anything I have brought from him. :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
Brian
yeah I know, found out earlier today. I think I am going to cut out the freeing ports now.
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So which stick movement do you use for the bow thruster? Is it independent using the Up/Down axis (which requires you to remember which way is Left etc) or have you coupled the bow-thruster to the rudder command?
FLJ
Rudder - L<>R.
Bow Thrust - Up <> Down With a small square of Dymo tape to remind me which way is Port and Starboard should brainfade set in.
Works for me as some bloke once said.
Barry M
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I plan to use the same system as Barry M on my wyeforce build, but for the throttles, I will be using an F14 Navy so slight difference.
Dan
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Dan,
The set I'm talking about is a F14 Navy also. LH - twin throttles. RH - rudder + bow thrust.
Cheers,
Barry M
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started on the anchor winch, as I was tired of the hull, and needed to see something come to getter a bit quickly. So ar it looks great, bith drums are on, and the gear.I still need to glue the cylinders on the motor, fit it on the gear. The brakes and all those other small components also need addidng, but some of them go directly on the deck it seems.
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sorry for not updating you guys on the project, but been busy with college and stuff. So I've put the tug on hold for the next couple of weeks, but I'll fit the engines though when they arrived. I'm guessing they haven't arrived yet because of the volcano ashes, but you just have to accept it I guess, not in any hurry anyway.
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Good news, the motors arrived and the look wonderful with matching clutches :-) Thanks for that Dave, really appreciated. Now I just can't wait to get started on this, but I have to go to the cinema tonight and after that I have to work <*< :-)
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Btw I think I forgot to ask what bow thruster I should buy, not sure how large the diameter should be.
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long time since I posted last here, but my bow thruster arrived a few days ago, so I'm going to fit it soon. When I'm done with that I'll have some pictures for you.
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Minime, first of all, please accept my apologies for steering your thread slightly off course for a moment, but perhaps when you're taking time out from building, perhaps when you have some time to spare, then maybe you could paste the following co-ordinates into Google Earth and throw some light this way?
62 03'31.60"N 6 52'30.00"W
Could it perhaps be some sort of hydro-electricity generators? Or something to do with the olympics?
Once again, apologies for busting-up your thread.
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almost one year later and the topic rises from it's grave.
Anyway glad to say I've taken on this project again, determined to complete it this time. But first I have to equip myself with new tools in order to get this right.
Was hoping some of you would help me make a shopping list for tomorrow.
- clamps, how many do I need and what size?
- Files, which ones?(to make holes in the hull and the likes)
- What knifes do I need
Simply everything I need, might have some of it and I might not.
very excited to get started again, have also decided to fit it with leds in any lamps I can.
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anyone able to tell me how many clamps I need? Will 4 or 5 do?
Also which grades of sandpaper will I need throughout the build?
This is quite urgent, plan to go shopping in half an hour.
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Mini I think you are being a bit mean at only 4 or 5 clamps - depending what sort of build but I have about 20 clamps 40 bulldog clips
and 40 clothes pegs and I quite often run out I could do with another 20 clamps.
Geoff
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oh, well I'm not a fast builder, that's why I thought I wouldn't need that many but thanks. I guess I'll start out with 5, then when I need more I can go and get them. Also decided to get a toolbox with several compartments to put all the metal bits in, think it might be safer and easier than the plastic bags it came in. By the end of the week I hope to start painting so I better get going now.
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went to the shop today but the didn't have the clamps I needed. Bought a nice toolbox and some files though.
But I wanted to ask other builders of this kit what they used to paint the hull with. Might have to go to the paint shop tomorrow, so would be a good idea to buy some paint for the hull too.
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nothing new to show today. The whole day was lost because of headache, feeling dizzy, throwing up. Presumably effects of prednisolon. But all gone now, so might get a little done tonight.
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went to the shop today but the didn't have the clamps I needed. Bought a nice toolbox and some files though.
But I wanted to ask other builders of this kit what they used to paint the hull with. Might have to go to the paint shop tomorrow, so would be a good idea to buy some paint for the hull too.
Hello
You can use what manufactor of paint you like. diffrent people like diffrent makes . I would work out all the colours you need and see what manufactor offers . EG if you want to spray the hull + supperstructer + funnel stick to ONE manufactor as you might get reactions. I do not know what you have avaible were you live.
John
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ah, that makes sense. Btw I've seen people use primer before applying the paint. Is this needed? As the manual says just to apply 2 coats of paint.
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A little update on the build:
Today I've managed to move backwards. When I put the running gear on, I didn't sand the hull before applying epoxy, so today with a stanley knife, and some force I broke it of. Now I have completely sanded the hull and gave it a good wash. Glad though I was able to remove the running gear, as I wasn't happy with the alignment. Also the epoxy I used then was about 10 years old.
Tonight I'll re align everything and possibly glue it back in place. Then tomorrow hopefully I'll be ready to glue the shafts and bow thruster in place and go over some places with filler. Before long she'll be ready for a test in the bath tub.
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Minime .....just a thought......you could drill & tap each nozzle mounting block ...say 10 BA in two places.........then naturally drill two corresponding holes in the hull.......
The real advantage being as you rebond the components to the hull with fresh epoxy......you can adjust the alignment O0 & lock it prior to the drying/curing process & nothing will move
Some epoxy resins [exothermic] do strange things when you are not looking.. >>:-(...& when you awake the next morning think <*< <:( <:( <:( ........... Derek
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I have already glued it back, but that doesn't sound like a bad idea. I'll keep it in mind for my next build(although that might be a while).
Build update:
I wasn't happy with the starboard nozzle setup, so I removed shaft guidance device of it, to make it match the port setup. This was glued back to getter last night. Also glued the bow thruster tubes to getter, so they a are now ready to be attached on the hull.
Then today I measured up where the shaft housings were going to sit and glued them on to getter with the stern running gear. Spent almost an hour watching it all dry, constantly making sure everything lined up.
btw won't have a camera till tomorrow, so until then I can't take any pictures to show you guys.
Also wanted to mention that I think I'm going to use some fiber optics illumination, inspired buy a bourbon orca build I saw, you think this is a good idea?
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Update:
Earlier today I glued the shafts and bow thruster in place.
(http://i54.tinypic.com/magwaa.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/308uzhk.jpg)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/2w54msw.jpg)
After this had dried, I put some sealant on the inside, now ready for filler on the outside tomorrow.
(http://i52.tinypic.com/30w74n5.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/120gqyx.jpg)
(http://i53.tinypic.com/1zd9g0z.jpg)
(http://i53.tinypic.com/2dkwmrq.jpg)
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today was spent sawing the bow thruster tubes to fit the hull. Then sanded them down and gave the hull a good clean, first with dish washing soap, then clean the areas I was going to use filler on with some acetone. Now I've been waiting for the filler to harden, but I'm a bit afraid to go look, since I'm not sure if I mixed the filler and hardener together correctly.
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Good news, filler seems to have been mixed correctly, but now I need to sand everything flat again. While being a bit tired of sanding, I decided to give it a water test. It was sitting in the tub for about an hour, with a couple of tupperware cases filled with water and no leaks were spotted. That means the hull nearly finished and I can start on the superstructure.
But I wanted to ask what batteries will do. Should I go with lead acid 12v 10-12ah or are there better batteries around? Going to use the Action kit which is recommended for this boat, but I just need to find decent batteries which will give me good run time.
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If it's 'Time' you're after as well as power then I would recommend a 12 volt, 7 amp/hr battery.
If you decide on this one then now is the time to make a four sided box to lay it flat in the base of the hull just under the opening of the cabin above. Use plastic for the frame to help with the weight problem. Try out a dry run in the 'bath' and position the box with the battery to balance the hull level --- as these batteries are heavier on the bottom than the the top
This sort of of planning makes it easy to remove from the boat when it's finished. :-))
Hope this helps.
Ken
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I believe I have such an battery in an old scooter which is in the carport. Scooter isn't driving and the battery is probably dead too, but I think it's the same size.
the place your describing(I'll take a proper look later) is it in front of the engines?
And thanks for the help, much appreciated.
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is it in front of the engines?
And thanks for the help, much appreciated.
Yes. Here is my set up on the one of my boats. Of course you could could always fit it to the other side of the motors to save prop tube length
Ken
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ah I think I'll be doing that box as soon as I'm done with filling and sanding the hull. Although having no previous experience with filler it's a real pain to do.
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Go to you local fire alram or buglarm alarm service company. They will have some old 12V 3ah or 12V 7 ah or 12v 12ah . I sure they will give you these for free as they are changed ever 3 years and the old one go in the bin. Then you will have several size to try and see what fits best.
John
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not sure it works that way here, but worth a try. There isn't much of a burglar alarm system market here, and most fire alarms are kept simple. There is one shop that might have some, so I'll stop by there, thanks.
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Go to you local fire alram or buglarm alarm service company. They will have some old 12V 3ah or 12V 7 ah or 12v 12ah . I sure they will give you these for free as they are changed ever 3 years and the old one go in the bin. Then you will have several size to try and see what fits best.
John
Hi John
This route has now been closed up by elf'n'safety.
I was informed they have to be accounted for and disposed of safely etc. %) A shame really as it was good source of supply.
ken
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well the batteries are quite cheap from england anyway, with postage they still are about half the price of what they cost here.
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Hi John
This route has now been closed up by elf'n'safety.
I was informed they have to be accounted for and disposed of safely etc. %) A shame really as it was good source of supply.
ken
Ken I can asure you ,you have been miss informed. I work in the industrie and it cost a lot to get rid of old battreies so we are happy to give them away.
John
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Hi John,
My information was given to me by our local Electric wheelchair store as they refused to let me have any. I was sorely disappointed so your information has cheered me up.
I, and a few others no doubt, are going to the Warwick show in November and I sense a good outlet for you if you can bring some along. If there is enough interest, you might need a truck. O0
Sorry to deflect your thread Minime.
ken
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no worries, it's all relevant in one way or another.