Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => Detail Work, Rigging, Fittings, Figures Etc. => Topic started by: JohnReid on December 06, 2009, 02:44:37 pm
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Hi guys! What follows will be a sequence of rigging for HMS Victory or other ship-of-the-line from that era.I hope that you find it informative.
Cheers! John. :-)
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HMS Victory,rigging,online booklet.
Starting today I will be putting here online a booklet on how to rig Victory.It will be on the proper sequence to use to rig both Victory's standing and running rigging.There is lots of info out there on rigging but next to none on the proper sequence.I hope you find it helpful.
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This will be a real time online booklet based upon Noel Hackney's method of rigging HMS Victory.
What I am attempting here is to fill the gap between nothing at all and all the experts.I am no expert myself and Victory was my first attempt at rigging a ship-of-the-line.I almost gave up myself until I discovered Noel's little book.Written for the inexperienced rigger, by a modeler for modelers of plastic or wooden ships,it is clear and concise on how to properly rig this ship in the proper sequence.I have all the other books on Victory,but they are all really confusing on where to begin the rigging and where to end.I hope this helps!This booklet is about sequence of rigging only.
Because I am doing this in real time ,if you would like to request a picture of a particular area that we are dealing with at the time please feel free to ask.Cheers! John.
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Re: HMS Victory
In my opinion,HMS Victory,by Noel CL Hackney is the best by far as a guide to the step by step rigging of this ship and other English ships-of-the-line.It was written by a modeler for other modelers .I have all the other books on modeling Victory but this little book, that I paid $1.98 for new in a hobby store 35 years ago ,is the best.Unfortunately they now only come up on the secondary market and only occasionally and they want up to $150.00 bucks for it.There are only 7 libraries in the world that stock it and there was only one printing made in the English language in 1970,the others are in German.If anyone knows how to put a little pressure on the owners of the rights to this book,please do so. Mr Hackney was foremost a modeler and he went to a lot of effort to make sure this information was available to modelers.I am sure that he would be very unhappy today to see the price that modelers have to pay and to whom the money is going.I am sure that in his lifetime it wasn't him.
Check it out on the web ISBN 0 85059 053 1.
I personally used his book over a 30 year period when building my own Victory and I don't think that I would have finished it as easily or as accurately as I did without it.It is a real shame that it will not be available to future modelers.And no I am not selling mine.
Thanks Noel!
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Step 1-Pendants
Longridge -Text P228, Plan # 8
Hackney-Text P61,# Fig 20
This is the first item of rigging to go on the lower masts.
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/320x240%20website/Victory09011-1-1-1-1.jpg)
Please go to my photobucket for large and very large pictures that show the rigging properly. :-)
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/320x240%20website/Vnew1002-1.jpg)
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Step 2-Foremast shrouds.
Longridge P219-33 plan#8
Hackney P61 Fig 36
Note: there is a definite sequence for rigging the shrouds.
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STEP 3-Bobstays
Longridge-Text page 226,Plan 6.
Hackney-Text page 61,figure 13.
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/320x240%20website/Vnew1005-2.jpg)
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/320x240%20website/Victorybowsprit001-1-1.jpg)
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/320x240%20website/Victory09004-1-1-1-1-1-1.jpg)
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Step #4
Bowsprit Shrouds:
Longridge P226 Plate 72 (excellent picture)
Hackney P62 Fig 13
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Step 5 Mainstay.
Longridge P220-21. Plan 8. Plate 74.
Hackney P62 .Plate 11.
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/320x240%20website/Mainstay002-1-1.jpg)
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Step 6 Main Preventer Stay.
Longridge P221-22.
Hackney P62 Fig 13
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Step 7. Forestay
Longridge P221-22 Plan 8
Hackney P62 Fig 45.
Please note:
Each step is posted individually as I plan to add belaying points and other information in the future.
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/320x240%20website/Mainstay001-1-1.jpg)
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Step 8. Fore preventer stay
Hackney P62 Fig 45
Longridge P222 Plan 8
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Step 9 Snaking
Hackney P62 plate 11 (excellent pic)
Longridge P222 Fig 151
Note: the snaking could be done now or later but sometime before starting the running rigging.I like to leave it till later Why? because I don't permanently fasten down the standing rigging at this time but do it only when it is all completed.
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Step 10 Mizzen Stay
Hackney P62 Fig 45
Longridge P222 Plan 6
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Step 11 Mizzen Preventer Stay
Hackney P62 Plate 10
Longridge P222 Plan 6
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Step 12 Jeer Blocks, Fore and Main.
Hackney P62 Fig 41
Longridge Fore yard P241 Plan 8
Main yard P251
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Step 13
Jib Boom Horses
Hackney P64 Fig 13.
Longridge 227,234 Plan 6.
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Step 14
Topmast Pendants
Hackney P 64 Fig 21
Longridge I can't find a good reference for this step in Longridge.
It is a single pendant of the type seen on the mizzen mast.
I will however try to find a reference and post it here.
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Step 15
Breast Backstays
Hackney P64
Longridge P231-32 Fig 162 (good drawing of the breast backstay purchase)
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Step 16
Fore Topmast Standing Backstay
Hack P64
Long P222
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Step 17
Main Topmast Standing Backstay
Hack P64
Long P222
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Please note:
For large pics of the rigging please go to my photobucket.When on my main page scroll down the albums list on the port side.
Click on "Victory book" and there you will find large and very large pictures , in approximately the right sequence for rigging Victory.Remember these pics are of a 1/72 scale model blown up to make your job of rigging easier.Color,scale,small flaws and mistakes will be embarrassingly obvious to the expert but at scale distance to the ordinary modeler it looks fine.Remember this is a diorama and I did use some artistic license for overall effect.Anyway that's my story and I'm sticking to it!
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The most important thing is the rigging sequence and that I can vouch for because when I finished I only had two pieces of running rigging that I couldn't place properly.I forget what they were now but because I no longer had access to the bottom of the mast I had to belay them to the shrouds.
After I finish the sequence of rigging I plan to identify the belaying points on the ship for each step of the rigging process .I plan to identify them by keying them to each step that I am working on now.The actual run of the rigging is covered very well by Longridge but he like all the others(except Hackney) is very confusing on the step-by step sequence,In other words the "how to..." of how the rig the ship in the proper order, which in this case happens to be how the real ship was rigged by her riggers at the time.Luckily for us as modelers it also happens to be the best method to rig a model. If you are not careful you can very quickly loose access to critical areas in all the maze of rigging.As a general rule I never permanently belay anything until thinking it though.Sometimes it is tempting to want to completely finish a step without really thinking about it.A good example would be the shrouds ,do not finish them with laniards and ratlines until the end of the rigging process.You can finish them individually but leave the laniards(the ropes between the deadeyes} loose.I don't know how many times I had to free them to get access to the running rigging belaying points at the foot of the masts.The ratlines you will have good access to until the end so there is no rush to finish them.
It is very important to keep asking yourself "will I need future access to this area ?" and resist the temptation to "finish it " permanently.
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Step 18
Mizzen topmast standing backstay.
Hack P64 Fig 11
Long P222
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Step 19
Fore topmast shifting backstay
Hack P64
Long P231
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Step 20
Main topmast shifting backstay.
Hack P65
Long P231
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Please note:
There is one exception to what I said about rigging the ratlines and that is the area between the futtock stave and the deadeyes at the top.Due to reasons of accessibility the ratlines that run from the futtock stave to the masthead are best installed before the futtock shrouds.See:Longridge P229 Fig 157 and Plate 63.
When climbing the shrouds to the top most sailors would use the ratlines attached to the futtock shrouds instead of going up the safer way through the "lubbers hole".( "landlubber")
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Step 21
Mizzen topmast shifting backstay.
Hack P65
Long P231-32
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Step 22
Foretopmast preventer stay
Hack P65
Long P222
Please Note:
that you have to jump around from one page to the other when following Longridge,Hackney however is consistently step-by-step.This is the beauty of Hackney's book.
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Step 23
Foretopmast stay
Hack P65
Long P222
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/Victorybowsprit001-1-2-1-1.jpg)
Bobstays
Note:new pic format. :-)
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/Vnew1002-1-1-1.jpg)
New pic format.
Sorry I can't edit the old ones.As you can see this is a work in progress.This should be the last pic format. %)
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/Vnew1007-1.jpg)
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/Victorybowsprit001-1-2-1-1-1-1-1.jpg)
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/Nelsonbust008-1-1-1.jpg)
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/Mainstay001-1-1-1.jpg)
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/Mainstay001-1-1-2.jpg)
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/Victorybowsprit006-1-1-1.jpg)
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/Victorybowsprit006-1-1-2.jpg)
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/IMG_0045-1-1.jpg)
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/IMG_0046-1.jpg)
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/IMG_0046-2.jpg)
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/IMG_0047-1-1.jpg)
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My Reference Source for this thread is Hackney's book.
He lists his reference sources as the following:
Published
The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships
Longridge
HMS Victory;Building ,Restoration and Repair
Bugler
Unpublished
Admiralty rigging charts and deck diagram at Portsmouth Dockyard.
Observation
Detailed examination of HMS Victory in Trafalgar condition at Portsmouth Dockyard
Discussions with
The Captain and ship's company of HMS Victory
The Master Rigger and his staff at Portsmouth Dockyard
The Curator and staff of the Victory Museum
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/IMG_0048-1-1.jpg)
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/IMG_0052-1-1.jpg)
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Any idea of time scale for rigging a ship of this complexity
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/IMG_0052-1-1-1.jpg)
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Any idea of time scale for rigging a ship of this complexity
sorry I never bothered to figure that out! Good idea though. :-)
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/IMG_0052-1-1-1-1.jpg)
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How do you edit a pic? {:-{
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/IMG_0058-1-1-1-1.jpg)
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/20%20Bellerose/IMG_0058-1-1.jpg)
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/IMG_0061-1-1.jpg)
Here is a better pic of steps 15 and 15.
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The Topmast Backstays
The fore and main topmasts each have five backstays on both the port and starboard sides.The miizzen topmast has only two.
There are three types of topmast backstays,-Breast
-Standing
-Shifting
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Note:The Topmast Backstays
The fore and main topmasts each have five backstays on both the port and starboard sides.The miizzen topmast has only two.
There are three types of topmast backstays,-Breast
-Standing
-Shifting
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/IMG_0062-1-1.gif)
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Fore Topmast Backstays.
The fore to aft sequence for rigging the backstays at the foremast port channel:
1-Breast backstay eyebolt-between deadeye 1 and 2.
2-Standing backstay 1-4th deadeye.
3-Standing backstay 2-10th deadeye.
4-Standing backstay 3-14th deadeye.
5-Shifting backstay-eyebolt just aft of 15th deadeye.
The foremast port channel is similar.
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Main Topmast Backstays.
1-Breast backstay eyebolt -same as foremast.
2-Standing backstay 1-same as foremast.
3-Standing backstay 2-8th deadeye.
4-Standing backstay 3-1st deadeye on stool.
5-Shifting backstay-same as foremast.
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Mizzen Topmast Backstays.
1-Standing backstay-1st deadeye on mizzen stool.
2-Shifting backstay-eyebolt at aft end of the mizzen channel.
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/IMG_0076-2-1.jpg)
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Deadeye sizes 1:1 scale (diameter in inches)
Fore lower 18
Fore topmast 12
Main lower 18
Main topmast 12
Mizzen lower 14
Mizzen topmast 8
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/Hacksdeadeyes1001-1-2-1-1-1.jpg)
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Please note:
There are other eyebolts to be installed on the channels of which I will refer to later.For purposes of clarity I didn't show there locations at this time.You may however want to install them on the channels before any rigging takes place.
As you can see my diagrams are a work in progress.I am learning this stuff as I go along.Any hints or tips are welcome.
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/IMG_0076-2-1-1.jpg)
Moderator,you can remove the other one,I can't find an edit tab.
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/20%20Bellerose/Hacksdeadeyes1001-1-2-2.jpg)
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Step 24
Main topmast stay.
Hack P65
Long P223 Plan6
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/Hacksdeadeyes1001-1-2-2.jpg)
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/IMG_0096-1-1-1.jpg)
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/IMG_0095-1-1.jpg)
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Please note:
Somewhere down the road I intend to go back and edit each step to include rope sizes,actual run of the rigging and belaying points of both the standing and running rigging and any other useful info that I can think of.Any ideas or suggestions are welcome.Cheers! John.
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Step 26
Mizzen Topmast Stay
Hack P65
Long P223 Plan6
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Step 27
Topgallant Shrouds
Hack P65
Long P233 Plan6
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/IMG_0098-1.jpg)
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Note: the running rigging is pulling too hard on the mizzen stay and distorting it,this stay is heavy and should show more weight.
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/IMG_0097-1.jpg)
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Step 28
Topgallant Backstays
Hack P65
Long P233 Plan9
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Correction to step 28
Fore Topgallant Standing Backstay
Hack P65
Long P233 Fig 178
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/IMG_0099-1-1.jpg)
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Step 29
Fore Topgallant Shifting Backstays
Hack P65
Long P233 Fig 178
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/IMG_0099-1-2-1.jpg)
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Step 30
Main topgallant standing backstays.
Hack P65
Long P223.
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Step 31
Main topgallant shifting backstay
Hack P65
Long P223
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Step 32
Mizzen topgallant standing backstay
Hack P65
Long P223
Note:There are no shifting backstays on the mizzen.
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Please note: This info that I am recording here would also be quite useful for anyone contempating building the new HMS Vanguard kit in 1/72 scale.(or any other scale for that matter)
It was a ship of the line from the same era as Victory and would have been rigged pretty much the same way.
I really know nothing about this kit good or bad and I haven't even seen the rigging instructions yet.Just a thought! Cheers. John.
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Step 33
Jib stay
Hack P67
Long P224 Plan 9
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Step 34
Fore topgallant stay
Hack P67
Long P 223 Fig 165
The following information will be edited into each step in the future.
Attach one 8 " becket block to the port knighthead.Attach a 4 1/2 " TPI....(I will explain TPI later)rope at the collar of the foretopgallant mast,knot it around the outer end of the jib boom and lead it back to the port knighthead.Tie a 8" double block to its end.Connect the two blocks in a luff tackle with a 2 1/2" (TPI) rope,belaying the fall around the knighthead.
I am also planning a "Belaying points diagram" to illustrate ,by number, each of the steps referred to in my headings.
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/IMG_0099-1-2-1-1.jpg)
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/IMG_0102-3-1.jpg)
Unfortunately I can't edit my posts for some reason and that is why everything is all over the place. {:-{
This pic belongs with the mainstays step.
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/IMG_0107-1-1.jpg)
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Step 10 Mizzen Stay
Hackney P62 Fig 45
Longridge P222 Plan 6
81/2 " rope set up from mizzen masthead and leading forward and down to tie in a loop around the mainmast.The other end then ties off to the deck eyebolt aft of the mainmast.
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Step 12 cont...
Jeer blocks are three sheave and they hang just below the level of the tops by means of a 7" rope loop around the masthead turns.These turns made first,are of 4 1/2 " rope passed six times round the masthead and through the mast cleat on the opposite side from the block,so forming a strop.These cross front and rear of the masthead.The jeers on the mainmast are 28" and those on the foremast are 26".
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/HMS%20Victory%20diorama/IMG_0110-1-1-1-1.jpg)
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Step 13 cont.....
Make a series of simple overhand knots in a length of 4" rope.Clove hitch the center of this around the outer end of the jib boom and tie the other two ends together around the jib boom behind the bowsprit cap.To look natural,allow the ropes to sag beneath the boom under their own weight .
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Step 14 cont....
It is a single pendant of the type seen on the mizzen mast.
I will however try to find a reference and post it here.
A single pair of pendants is fitted around each of the fore and main topmasts immediately above the crosstrees,in the same way as the mizzen pendant.They are 5 1/2" rope.There is no topmast pendant on the mizzen.
__________________
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Step 15 cont.....
These are fitted to the fore and main topmasts only,one each side, they are 7" rope with an eye going over the masthead and a 14" block tied into the lower end slightly above deck rail level.A 5" rope is tied to the base of the first deadeye on each channel except the mizzen ones,it runs through the block,and ties off to the base of the third deadeye on the fore channels and to the base of the second deadeye on the main channels.
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Step 16 cont......
Three each side,of 7" rope.
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Step 17 cont.....Three each side of 7" rope belay to the foremost eye on the backstay stool.
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Step 18 cont....
One each side 4 1/2" rope leading to the forward eyebolt on the mizzen backstay stool.
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Step 20 cont..
Same as fore backstay but the lower 12" blocks are tied to the main channel eyebolts between the ninth and tenth deadeyes.
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Step 19.....cont..One each side 7" rope with a 12" double block tied to the lower end.12" single becket block tied to the foremost of the two eyebolts in rear end of fore channels.The blocks are joined by a 3" rope in a luff tackle,the fall being tied back on the eyebolt.
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The first 20 steps are now finished.I will be posting all deck belaying points later.Cheers! John.
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Step 21 cont...Same as the fore and main but using a 4 1/2" rope for the backstay and 9" blocks with the lower single one tied to the single eyebolt on the aft end of the mizzen channel.The blocks are connected by 2 1/2" rope.
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Step 22 cont.....
Tie one 12 " single block to the base of the port knighthead.Tie one end of a 6 1/2" rope around the foretopmast head.The lower end is led through the hole in the port bee.A single becket block is tied to its end.The two blocks are connected with a 3" rope in a gin-tackle,with the fall around the knighthead.
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Step 23 cont....
Tie a 12" single block to the base of the starboard knighthead.Rig the stay as in step 22 but using a 8 1/2" rope.Lead it through the hole in the starboard bee and connect the blocks with a 3 1/2" rope,belaying the fall around the knighthead.
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/HMS%20Victory%20diorama/HMS%20Victory%20Pics/IMG_3679-1-1.jpg)
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Step 24 cont............
Using 8 1/2" rope rig the upper end using the same method.The lower end is tied in a loop around the foremast just under the supports for the top.Its free end is tied off to the deck eyebolt aft of the foremast.
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Step 25
Hack P65
Long P223 Plan 6
6 1/2" rope is rigged around the masthead led down through the single block at rear of the foremast head and belays to the deck eyebolt.
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Step 26 cont......Step 26
Mizzen Topmast Stay
Hack P65
Long P223 Plan6
5 inch rope tied once around the masthead just at the bottom of the supports,brought down behind the mainmast and tied off around it again halfway between the second and third mastbands below the top supports.
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Step 27 cont.....
Step 27
Topgallant Shrouds
Hack P65
Long P233 Plan6
These are of 4" rope on the fore and main and 2 1/2"on the mizzen.
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Step 28 cont.....
Fore Topgallant Standing Backstay
Hack P65
Long P233 Fig 178
One on each side for each topgallant mast.The pair on the fore are 4" rope and lead to the last eyebolt at the aft end of the forechannels.Those on the main are also 4" and lead to the rearmost eyebolt on the main backstay stools.Tose on the mizzen are 2 1/2" and lead to the rear eyebolt on the mizzen backstay stools.
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Steps 29 and 30.
Fore and Main Topgallant Shifting Backstays
Hack P65
Long P233 Fig 178
One on each side of fore and main topgallant masts only,not on the mizzen.The pair on the fore are 4" rope and have 7" blocks tied in their ends which connect in a luff tackle by a 2" rope to a 7" becket block tied to the last eyebolt on the forechannel.The fall belays around the base of the next deadeye forward.The pair on the main are also 4" rope ,with a 7" double block and a 2" lanyard,the 7"single becket block being tied by a short strop around the base of the first deadeye on the main backstay stool,lying inboard of it.The falls belay to the base of the same first deadeye.
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Step 31
Jib Stay
Tie a short length of 4 1/2 " rope around the jib boom at its outer end ,as a collar called the "jib traveller".To this collar tie a length of 4" rope and lead this through the top sheave of the starboard cheek block on the foremast head and down behind the mast .Tie a 9" double block in its end just above the level of the lower mast cap.Tie another length of 3" rope to the becket of one of the two blocks installed in the aft end of the foretop.Reeve the blocks in a luff tackle leading the fall down through the after hole in the foretop and belaying as in the belaying diagram.
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Step 32
Foretopgallant Stay
Tie one 8" single becket block to the port knighthead.Tie a 4 1/2" rope at the collar of the foretopgallant mast,knot it around the outer end of the jib boom,lead it back towards the port knighthead ,and tie an 8" double block in its end.Connect the two blocks in a luff tackle with a 2 1/2" rope,belaying the fall around the knighthead.
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Step 33
Main Topgallant Stay
A 4 1/2 " rope leading from the main topgallant mast collar,down through the block attached at the rear of the foretopmast head,and tied off to the strop on the foretop behind the mast.
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Step 34
Mizzen Topgallant Stay.
A 3" rope from the mizzen topgallant mast collar,down through the hole in the mainmast cap.It is tied off to the strop on the maintop behind the mast.
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Step 35
Flying Jib Boom Horses.
Double ,made as the jib boom horses and running from the outer end of the flying jib boom to tie again around the same spar just aft of its support on the jib boom end.
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The first 35 steps are complete except for the belaying points of each rope.Somewhere down the road I plan to make a belaying point diagram for each step shown here.
From now on each step will be completed as fully as possible before moving on to the next step.It is just too much of a hassle to come back and edit the information later.
Anyone using my rigging plan would already have many months of work before them just to bring their ship to this stage.
If everything goes as planned I am hoping to add about a step a day on average.
Good luck! Cheers. John.
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Please note: the decision to use harbour,furled or full sail rig has to be made very early in the process .I plan to discuss some of the full sail rigging options later.
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Step 36
Bowsprit Horses (manwalk)
one each side of 5" rope ,one end secured to the marine walk grating and the forward end ties off to the upper eyebolts of the sides of the bowsprit caps.(This is the only set of horses placed above and not below the spar.)They are used as handropes for men walking on the bowsprit.
Long P227
Hack P67
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Step 37
Flying Jib Stay
3" rope from foretopgallant mast just above the shrouds ,tied off around the flying jib boom close to its outer end.
Long P225
Hack P67
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Steps 38,39 and 40.
Royal Backstays.
Fore royal backstay -one each side 3" rope tied at the mast truck and leading to the aftermost eyebolts in the forechannels.
Main royal backstay-as above except leading to the eyebolts of the main backstay stools.
Mizzen royal backstays-as above except using a 2" rope ,leads to after eyebolts of the mizzen stools.
Long P233
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/IMG_0127-1-1.jpg)
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Step 41
Main Royal Stay
2" from truck of main royal mast to tie off around the fore royal mast above the foretopgallant shrouds.
Long P224
Hack P67
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Step 42
Mizzen Royal Stay
2" rope from truck of mizzen royal mast to tie off around the head of main topmast just above the crosstrees.
Long P224
Hack P 67
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/IMG_0129-1-1.jpg)
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Step 43
Inner Martingale
Long P227
Hack P67
4" rope tied to the jib traveler under the jib boom ,leads through the uppermost sheave in the dolphin striker.through the port side of the bowsprit collar and ends in a 9" single becket block.A 9" single block is tied to the port knighthead,and the two blocks are connected in a gin tackle by a 2" rope with its fall tied off around the knighthead.
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Step 44
Outer Martingale
Long P227
Hack P67
4" rope from outer end of the jib boom,through the second highest sheave in the dolphin striker,through the starboard side of the bowsprit collar,ending in a 9" single becket block.A 9" single block is tied to the starboard knighthead and the blocks are connected as in step 43 above.
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Step 45
Flying Martingale
Long P227
Hack P67
4" rope tied to flying jib boom at the same point as the flying jib stay,through the third highest sheave of dolphin striker,through the starboard side of bowsprit collar,ending in a 9" single becket block.A 9" single block is tied to the starboard knighthead,and the blocks connected as in step 44 above.
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__________________________________________________ ____
Formula To Find The Circumference Of Any Rope At Any Scale.
__________________________________________________ ____
1/TPI X 22/7 X scale =rope circumference.
Using a dowel mark off 1" in length.Take the rope that you want to find the circumference of and wrap the dowel with the string,thread or whatever you are using.Then count the number of turns it takes to cover the 1" length already marked on the dowel and that is the TPI(Turns per inch).Multiply that number by 22 over 7 and then multiply that by the scale that you are working with and that will give you the circumference of the rope as it exists in real life.
Example: 1 over 24(TPI) multiplied by 22 over 7 multiplied by the scale of your ship 78=10.2"(approx) circumference .
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Step 46
Fore Royal Stay
Long P224
Hack P67
3" rope from truck of the fore royal mast,through the notched tip of the flying jib boom,through the lowest hole of the dolphin striker,through the port side of the bowsprit collar,ending in a 9" single becket block.A 9" single block is tied to the port knighthead ,and the blocks are connected as in stage above.
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/IMG_0133-1.jpg)
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Step 47
Jib Traveler Outhauler
Note: this is actually part of the running rigging and a biege colored rope should be used. Installing it now is a good idea because it will be too hard to work on later.
Tie a 12" single becket block to the eyebolt on the front face of the bowsprit cap.Tie a 3 1/2" biege rope to the jib traveler above the boom,lead it forward and down through the sheave in the neck of the jib boom,and back towards the bowsprit cap,tying a 12" double block in its end.Connect the blocks with 3" beige rope in a luff tackle,and tie off the fall .
Long P234
Hack P68.
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/IMG_0137-1-1.jpg)
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The last pic shows a typical yard with its horses (footropes),its stirrups supporting them and its flemish horses of single loops of rope under the yardarms.These are better installed before the yards are fitted to the mast,but care must be taken to make them fit so that they hang below the yard when they are in place.The horses sag below all yards,their inner ends crossing each other and tied off around the yardarm beyond the yards center point.Stirrups are evenly spaced along the yard.Flemish horses are tied around eyebolts screwed into the tips of the yards.
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/JRfig1-2.jpg)
Bowsprit Horses Step 36
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I am a 3D guy and not much of an illustrator and this is my first attempt at an illustration. I worked it up in photoshop as a test for future illustrations.There are areas on my Victory that I just cannot reach properly with my camera so I think that a few drawings are in order.
The one below is of the starboard side of the bowsprit looking down.
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The white caulk on the blackboard look is quite effective in that no one really expects to see a work of art using this medium.It gives it more of a instructional look as you would find in a school type setting.I think that I will stick with the idea.
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/JRfig2-1.jpg)
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Yard-- Horses-- Stirrups-- Flemish Horses--
__________________________________________________ __________________
Sprit topsail 3" - -
Spritsail 4" 3/3" 4"
Fore 5 1/2" 4/4" -
Foretopsail 4" 3/3" 3"
Foretopgallant 3" - -
Main 5 1/2" 4/4" -
Maintopsail 4 1/2" 3/3" 3"
Maintopgallant 3" - -
Crossjack 4 1/2" 3/3" -
Mizzentopsail 3" 2/2 1/2" 3"
Mizzentopgallant 2" - -
Driver boom 3" - -
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Well that is not quite the chart that I expected,mine was all in neat rows!
Anyway, to read the chart from port to starboard it goes like this:
Name of yard-Horses ,rope size-Stirrups,each side-Stirrups, rope size-Flemish H
A dash on the chart means"not required."
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/JRfig3-1-1.jpg)
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Step 48
Spritsail Yard Halyard
Connects to two eybolts one at the center of the yard and the other at the bowsprit cap.Connect these with a of 9" rope.
Note: this arrangement replaced the original twin block and fall halyard that was there prior to the 1803 refit and is correct for the Trafalgar date when at harbour rig.
Hack P68
Long P237
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/JRfig4-1-1.jpg)
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/JRfig5-1-1-1.jpg)
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Step 49
Tie two lengths of 3 1/2" rope to the jib traveler,one on each side of the boom.Loop each rope around the spritsail yard outside the innermost of the three collars on the yard.Tie an 11" single becket block to each end of the rope and an 11" single block to the innermost eyebolt on each side of the roundhouses.Reeve the blocks together each side in a gin tackle and tie off the falls to the eyebolts.
Hack P68
Long 227-28
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Step 50
Jib Boom Guy Pendants
41/2" rope,one each side,from neck of jib boom around the middle collars on the spritsail yard,set up as above to the middle eyebolts above the roundhouses.
Hack P68
Long P228
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Step 51
Flying Jib Boom Guys
3" rope,one each side,from the neck of the flying jib boom,around the outer collars of the spritsail yard,set up as above to the outer eyebolts above the roundhouses.
Hack P70
Long P228
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Step 52
Boomkin Shrouds
4 1/2" rope ,rigged from the eyebolts in the cutwater,then around the outer ends of the boomkins and tied off around the eyebolts in the head cheeks.
Hack P70
Long P228
__________________________________________________ __________
This completes the standing rigging.All ropes should be biege from now on, except where especially noted in some of the later steps.
__________________________________________________ _____________
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At this point the standing rigging should be up but not permanently tied down,so that if need be you still should be able to get good access to just about any point on the model.Now would be a good time to do a checklist of all the required belaying points ,eyebolts,sheaves and cleats on the shrouds etc....( tie down the standing rigging only as required to complete the running rigging.)
After finishing the running rigging, I will make up a diagram of the required belaying points on the decks.
It is at this point that the final decision will have to be made on whether to use full sails or not on your model.Harbour rig (like mine) furled sails or full sails? The position of the yards on the masts will depend upon your decision now.
If you are doing a harbor or furled sails rig, the yards will be correctly positioned low on the masts ,while at full sail they will be in a much higher position.
After finishing the running rigging I will do a limited sail rig for those who are interested in putting up some of the sails.None of the rigging for the stay sails will be covered as they are hardly ever put up on ship models of this type, as they tend to hide a lot of the ships details.
Now may also be a good time to think of whether or not to put your model on a stand or in a sea-type kind of diorama setting ,maybe even using a few figures.
My opinion is that a fully rigged ship, sitting on a stand, sailing to nowhere with no crew, is a little beyond believability.The sail rig that I would envision would be for use in reasonable winds ,set to catch a fair wind from the port quarter .A wind such as this would result in the ship being slightly down by the head and heeling very slightly to starboard.
It would not require a lot of crew ,a few on deck and a couple in the rigging and of course one at the helm would be enough to bring it to life.
If you are planning to do such a ship it would be advisable now to wait until I get to the sail rig before doing your final checklist of belaying points etc...
This first checklist may not be as complete as I would like it to be and is in no specific order but it should help you avoid trying to set up an eyebolt,cleat or other rigging at a more awkward stage down the road.
For those who intend to press on now with a harbour rig it is advisable to rig your yards as completely as possible before attaching them to the masts.
Questions or comments? Good luck! Cheers. John.
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Rigging Checklist
Please note:that the numbers used here are for identification purposes only and do not indicate any sequence to be used when using this checklist.
1-Beakhead bulkhead-just above the roundhouses at each end of this bulkhead are three 6" eyebolts
2-Bowsprit shrounds hull fittings-on the cheeks of the bow below and aft of the hawseholes are 6" eyebolts one each side for the lower ends of the bowsprit shrouds.
3-Main jeer falls -provision must be made for these falls which belay to the deck below.
4-Under the foremost skid beam provide cleats for the foretopsail yard braces.
5-on the forward edge of the skid beam opening install 6" eybolts opposite each of the above mentioned cleats.
6-Main backstay stools-on the aft end of each main stay stool add two eyebolts.
7-Mizzen backstay stools-two eyebolts to be installed on the aft end of each stool.
8-install 2 eyebolts on each side of the stem.(exact position to be identified later)
9-Main bitt-seventeen belaying pins required however only six of these pins will be used for harbour rig.
10-Mizzen bitt-the crossbar carries six belaying pins but only five will be used.
11-Fore bitts-the foremost has nine belaying pins but none will be used.The rear most has seventeen belaying points but only 5 will be used.
Note that these bitts also contain sheaves embedded within the uprights.
12-there is a sheave at the outer tip of the jib boom,this sheave is for the jib traveller outhauler.
13-Bowsprit cap has six eyebolts of 6" diameter.On each of the long vertical sides of the cap there are two eyebolts,one right at the top and the other slightly more than half way down.The fifth eyebolt is located at the bottom of the front face of the cap.The last eyebolt is located at the center of the bottom rear face under the bowsprit.
14-Marine's walk -there are two eyebolts on the top of the marine's walk to take the after ends of the bowsprit horses.
To be cont.........
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Rigging Checklist Page 2.
15-Deck Rail Fittings-at eight points inside the deck rails there are the "kevels."From the bow their locations along each rail are:
-inboard of the fourth timber head,abreast the belfy
-at the break of the rail abreast the mainmast
-at the foot of the poopdeck ladders.
16-Snatch blocks ,one each side of the pooprails up against the sternboard and two more,one each side,right on the fore ends of the forecastle rails.
17-Belaying points fittings.Various cleats and eybolts are required about the deck.There position will be shown on my upcoming full belaying points diagram.Most all of the eyebolts are 6".
Masts and Yards.
18-Foremast cleats located between the second and third mastbands down from the cap.
19-At the foot of the foremast carries long cleats set vertically,one each side of the front rubbing strip with their lower ends just above the level of the lowest mastband.
20-Mainmast,same as the foremast.
21-Mizzenmast,a collar around the mast above the lowest mastband carrying four belaying pins.
22-Fore topmast, just below the cap is a cheek block on each side.
23-Topgallant masts,each of these has a collar above the lower cap,below each collar is a sheave.
24-Flying jib boom ,there is a sheave set in the outer tip of this boom.
25-Fore and main topsail yards.Horizontally placed snatch blocks are located on the after side of the ends of each of these yards.
26-Spritsail yard,Install a small strop in the center of the front side of this yard for the halyard.
to be cont........
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Important please note:
--------------------------
------------------------------
------------------------------------
If you are planing to put up staysails now would be the time to include their rigging.These sails are not often rigged by most modelers, so I won't confuse things by including them now.Later under sail rig I will do a limited description of the staysail rigging.
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Rigging Checklist Page 3.
27-The Tops.
The rigging of the tops are handled differently by Hackney and Longridge.While Longridge's method seems to be the most popular method.(It is the one I used and is what is on the ship now)I will record both methods here.
Hackney calls for eleven single blocks under the foretop:
Foretop
4 -11"for the spritsail brace
4 -9" for the topsail brace
2- 8" foretopgallant braces
1- 7" knave line.
Two 9" single becket blocks are installed above the after end of the top.
Maintop
a single 7" becket block is installed just forward and underneath the center of the rear rim of the top.A 9" single becket block is also installed above the after end of the top.
Mizzen top
a 15" double block hangs under the center of the of the after crosswise support under the top,and a 6" single becket block is installed above the after end of the top.
to be cont......
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Rigging Checklist Page 4.
27 -The Tops cont......
I used the Longridge method of rigging the tops as I wanted to put up more rigging than just the essential harbor rig,for example leaches,bunts etc....
Longridge calls for the following:
The Fore Top
4-single 9" blocks for the spritsail topsail brace
8-double 11" blocks for the buntlines,the spritsail brace and the leech line.
There are two 8" single blocks at the after rim of this top tied to eyebolts.They are the leading blocks for the topgallant braces.A 7" knave line block is tied to the middle under the aft crosstree.
The Main Top
Only one pair of double blocks are needed under the main top.Four 10" single blocks are required for the leech lines.There are only six blocks under the main top as compared with twelve under the fore top.
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oops...Almost forgot the Mizzen top.
A 15" double block hangs under the center of the after crosswise support under the top and a 6"single becket block is installed above the aft end of the top.
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Rigging Checklist Page 5
28-Fore Channel eyebolts (all are 6") two at aft end of channel and one under the channel between the 2nd and 3rd deadeyes.
29-Main Channel eyebolts,one between the 9th and tenth deadeyes and another eyebolt at the aft end of the channel
30-Mizzen Channel eyebolts,
2 at the aft end of the starboard channel and one on the port.
My model has more eyebolts on the channels than is called for here as I decided to rig this area per Campbell's plans with the inner and outer tricing lines and fore yard tackle rigged to blocks in the channels.
31-Dolphin Striker, four sheaves (or holes) are set in outer end at one foot intervals from the tip.
32-Belfry supports,10" cleats are secured towards the top of the outer faces of the front legs of the two belfry supports.one on each.The cleats are angled forwards and upwards to take the fore topgallant braces.
33-Make sure that the tops have been drilled to take the crowsfeet rigging.
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Short note on blocks.
Approximate number required
Harbor rig : 166 singles,40 doubles
Sail rig: 72 extra singles
Full sail rig including staysails: unknown at this time.
I made mine from boxwood and American cherry.I prefer working with the American cherry if the color is no problem.I was able to make the smallest blocks required at 1/72 scale, without any difficulty, with a sharp drill and a head optivisor.(magnifier)
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Step 53
Foreyard Jeer Falls
Tie two 26" double blocks to the lower yard,one each side,outside the slings.Tie two lengths of 7 1/2" rope to the yard inboard of these two blocks between them and the sling and lead the leading ends down through the holes in the uprights of the aftermost fore bitt and tie off above the crossbar.
Hack P70
Long P241
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/IMG_0196-1-1-1.jpg)
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/Victory09009-1-1-1.jpg)
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/JRfig1-2-1-1.jpg)
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/JRfig9-1-1-1-1-1.jpg)
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/JRfig8-1-1-1-1.jpg)
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Step 54
Fore Yard Truss Pendants
Along with the knave line this is a bit of complicated arrangement.Each tie around the yard carries both a small loop and a long running end. These long ends are each led around behind the mast,through one loop of the knave line strop,through the loop of the opposite yard tie,and down towards the deck with a double block tied in the end.A single becket block is tied to the relevent deck eyebolt.The blocks are connected in a luff tackle and the fall is tied off to a cleat on the fore side of the mast.The trusses are of 8" rope,the blocks 11" and the connecting lanyard is 3" rope.
Hack P70
Long P240 fig 171.this is an excelent diagram of this arrangement.
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Step 55
Fore Knave Line
The truss pendants have been run through the loop ends of a short strop behind the mast.Tie a length of 2" rope to the center of the strop,lead it through the 7" block attached to the rear center of the fore top.
Hack P 70
Long P241
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Please note: It is around step 53 that the decision will have to be made as to how much rigging will be shown on the yards.Blocks for the bunts,leeches and clew lines are optional for harbor rig.I showed them on my model because I just like lots of rigging,I even put on the jewel blocks for the stunsail gear.Some of this could be put on later but I would recommend rigging the yards as completely as possible, now that they are easily accessible.
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Step 56
The Slings
The lower end of the yard slings could also go on at this time.See page 240 figure 170 in Longridge,Hackney unfortunately shows the sling as one continuous rope which is incorrect.The sling is in two parts upper and lower with thimbles lashed together by a 3 1/2" laniard.
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Step 57 (the slings cont...)
The upper part of the sling is made from 12" cable with an eye spliced in one end.It has a long leg and a short leg,the short leg has the spliced eye.T.It then comes down to reeve through the eye of the short leg.The long leg passes over the cap where is lies on a bolster and then comes down to reeve through the eye of the short leg and is seiezed there with three lashings.
Long P239 -40. Fig 170.
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Step 58
Foreyard Tackle Pendant
There are two methods for rigging these pendants.The first a method as described by Hackney is to rig them to the shrouds and is correct for harbor rig.
Tie one 7" block at the outer quarter on each side of the yard.Tie another to the foremost shroud on each side just below the futtock stave.Tie a short length of 7" rope at the yardarm with a 13" double block in the end.This line should be long enough to allow the 13" block to lie bolow the 7" block at the yard arm when it is pulled towards the shrouds.
I however used Campbell's method as described by Longridge for this as I believe that it allows for a more stable yardarm.Yardarm stability is very important as even the slightest movement when attaching the braces on one side or the other can throw out of whack all the other ropes on the yard (bunts,leeches etc...as you can see in some of my pics.)
You could overcome some of this by not having the ropes too taunt to start off with but I haven't yet figured out how to make them look good and still look like they are carrying weight (slightly bent)
Longridges description of Campbell's method is on page 242 of his book and is used more for the modelers convenience than true harbor rig.
I will diagram both methods and you can chose between the two.
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/JRfig10-1-1-1.jpg)
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Step 59
Forward Tackle Inner Tricing Line
Tie a 7" single block to the foremost lower shroud.Make a small loop in one end of a 2 1/2" rope.Lead the other end down through the block and tie it (temporarily)leaving the loop end loose from the shroud block.
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Step 60
Foreyard Tackle
Take a 13" block and form a becket at one end and a hook at the other,tie a length of 3 1/2" rope to the becket.Engage the hook into the loop in the hanging end of the inner tricing line.Reeve a 3 1/2 " rope in a luff tackle between the hooked block and the double block on the end of the tackle pendant.Lead the end of the thread back above the hooked block,down through the loop in the end of the tricing line alongside the hook and tie off.The lower end of of the inner tricing line can now be permanently fixed.
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/JRfig11-1.jpg)
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Confused ? me too!
Let me explain:
Ropes 59 & 61 both run down the shrouds.The ? at the end of the yardarm is to indicate that this is where the outer end of the tricing line attaches to the yardarm pendant so that it can be pulled up to the yardarm.
The other ? shows where the inner tricing line pulls the yard tackle up towards the yardarm into a stowed position.
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Step 61
Foreyard Tackle Outer Tricing Line
Tie a length of 2" rope to the tackle pendant right above the block.Pass the free end up and through the yard quarter block,across and down through the uppermost shroud block and down the shroud rope.
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/JRfig12-1-1.jpg)
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Step 62 (This is so important that I gave it a step of its own)
Foretopsail yard
Decision time! will it be harbor,furled or sail rig? If sail rig, position this yard high on the mast,if furled or harbor rig is your preference then mount it low on the mast ,almost to the level of the caps.The same is true for the other masts as well.
Decision #2 how much rigging do I want to show on these yards? should I install it all now?(recommended)
Decision #3 see Longridge P247-48.Securely pinning or gluing down things down.On the real ship there is a lot of weight on the rigging to hold things in place,on a model the yards and the lines can work themselves lose to give your model a less than ship shape look. I know because it also happened to me.
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/JRfig13-1.jpg)
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Step 63
Foretopsail Yard Tie Purchases
The blocks installed under the crosstrees are used for these ropes.Tie two lengths of 6" rope around the head of the topmast just above the crosstrees so that one length hangs down each side.The starboard rope is lead through one sheave of the double block on the yard, through the single block under the port side of the crosstrees and down alongside the port topmast backstay.Tye in its end a 14" double block just above the level of the lower yard.Repeat the process with the port length of rope ,leading it the opposite way and finishing with its end block hanging alongside the starboard backstay.
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Step 64
Foretopsail Yard Halyards
Tie a 14" single becket block,one each side,to the eyebolts immediately aft of the eleventh deadeyes in the fore channels by short lengths of rope,so that the blocks are just above the level of the upper deadeyes.Lengths of 3 1/2" are tied to the beckets of these blocks.Reeve them to the double blocks of the tie purchases in a luff tackle.Tie the falls inside the forecastle rail .
Step 65
Foretopgallant Yard
Locate the position of the yard on the mast just above the cap and pin and glue in position.
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/JRfig14-1-1.jpg)
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Step 66
Foretopgallant Tie
Lead a rope of 4 1/2" through the topgallant mast sheave and then down aft of the mast.Tie a 8" double block in its end slightly above the level of the foremast cap.
Step 67
Foretopgallant Yard Halyard
Tie a length of 3" rope to the becket of the remaining single block installed above the aft end of the foretop.Reeve this to the double block just installed on the foretopgallant tie in a luff tackle.Lead the fall through the aft hole in the foretop.
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(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/Victory%20book/IMG_0215-1-1.jpg)
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It is very difficult to photograph the run of the running rigging while the model is in the case due to very limited access,lighting conditions etc......I will highlight the
important parts of the tackle wherever possible. The run of the rigging should be clear in the various steps that I have described.Belaying points on deck will be fully covered and illustrated at a later stage.Cheers! John.
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Step 68
Foreyard Lifts
Tie a 12" single block end to end with a 26" double block,attach the larger block to the to the yardarm of the foreyard.A 4 1/2" rope is attached to the becket of the block already installed at the mast cap.Lead it down through the top and inside the shrouds to belay at the kevel opposite the fore end of the fore channel.
Hack P 72
Long P242-43.
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I will continue with this thread as soon as possible but for now I must get back to my Canada Aviation Museum commitments.Thanks for your understanding.Cheers! John.
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I visited a couple of local hobby stores yesterday and to my surprise I saw something amazing.Ten years ago, except for the amour guys ,hardly anyone knew about dioramas or even what they were.Not only most modelers but the arts community too!
Things are finally changing,they now have craft materials for kids, even under ten years old' labeled as "diorama kits".I am not just talking about the modeling section of the stores but in the childrens craft section as well.Sure,I know that this kind of craft thing has been around for a long time but I never have seen a kit designed especially for kids and labeled a diorama.
So what is the big deal?Well maybe sometime in the future makers of dioramas will not have to explain to 9 out of 10 people that they meet what kind of art they do.