Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Seaport Tugs => Topic started by: marinemole on January 26, 2010, 02:26:22 pm
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Have converted the Seaport Tug to a freelance steam outline based on a model steam powered tug I saw on the Net. Radio is now 2.4 GHz and motor control by a Viper ESC. Still work to be done, some details to be added and model to be painted. Still in rather patchy grey primer.
The outline looks a little top heavy but fairly pleased by slightly quirky appearance. Enormous ventilators are as a result of using ping pong balls cut in half. After a sinking in its original guise last year I have filled all available interior space with the rest of the pack.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv59/carmanmole/Lomond%20Shores/DSCF5147crop.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv59/carmanmole/Lomond%20Shores/DSCF5154.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv59/carmanmole/Lomond%20Shores/DSCF5155crop.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv59/carmanmole/Lomond%20Shores/DSCF5157.jpg)
Have sailed the model once at Lomond Shores, Balloch, Scotland with the preserved paddler Maid of the Loch as a backdrop.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uL5hDAsj3is (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uL5hDAsj3is)
The model can be put back to something approaching its original state by simply switching superstrucures.
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A nice quirky conversion Mole. I thought it was a vintage US Navy harbor tug because of they grey colour. I`d decided that was going to be the theme of my conversion but probably in WWII Russian grey livery , lend lease or something. I havent got too far along the route so far but here are a couple of pics.
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Very nice models!!! I to am converting one of these tugs...............but i had a problem! I put in a new prop shaft and a 45m brass prop ( kept the original motor ) and proceeded to burn the motor out!!! Before running yours just check the motor has ' breathing slots ' . The plastic engine mount and the heatsink ( thin plate ) both need slots cutting out of them to give the motor ventilation. I now realise i was trying to spin too big a prop with the original motor. Could you please tell me the size of the original prop please ( i sold mine when i converted ) as i will replace my prop with the original size. Regards, Dave.
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Thanks, there was an answer to the prop size on one of the threads here, I think it is titled "Prop Size" IMHO 45 mm is too big for the standard motor yes. I`ll be fitting a Springer set-up. 540 motor 35mm direct to see how it goes. Water cooling coil and open mount slots of course.
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A nice quirky conversion Mole. I thought it was a vintage US Navy harbor tug because of they grey colour. I`d decided that was going to be the theme of my conversion but probably in WWII Russian grey livery , lend lease or something. I havent got too far along the route so far but here are a couple of pics.
Like your conversion, be sure to keep updated.
Very nice models!!! I to am converting one of these tugs...............but i had a problem! I put in a new prop shaft and a 45m brass prop ( kept the original motor ) and proceeded to burn the motor out!!! Before running yours just check the motor has ' breathing slots ' . The plastic engine mount and the heatsink ( thin plate ) both need slots cutting out of them to give the motor ventilation. I now realise i was trying to spin too big a prop with the original motor. Could you please tell me the size of the original prop please ( i sold mine when i converted ) as i will replace my prop with the original size. Regards, Dave.
The original is 45mm diameter plastic, perhaps something to do with weight and possibly pitch? . I have kept the Kort nozzle. Out of keeping with vintage of tug but the manoeuvrability it affords is too big a plus for me to ignore as we often sail in a fairly narrow waterway.
Andy
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Very nice models!!! I to am converting one of these tugs...............but i had a problem! I put in a new prop shaft and a 45m brass prop ( kept the original motor ) and proceeded to burn the motor out!!! Before running yours just check the motor has ' breathing slots ' . The plastic engine mount and the heatsink ( thin plate ) both need slots cutting out of them to give the motor ventilation. I now realise i was trying to spin too big a prop with the original motor. Could you please tell me the size of the original prop please ( i sold mine when i converted ) as i will replace my prop with the original size. Regards, Dave.
Dave I have just measured my prop which is original and it is a 40mm 3 blade.
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Thanks for the info on prop size, i will probably change my brass 4 blade 45mm prop to a 3 blade 40mm plastic one as originally fitted. I suppose a brass one takes more power out of the motor and battery to turn or am i just being fussy? Regards, Dave.
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Brass wold be OK as long as its 3 bladed and 40mm. :-))
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Hi! thanks for that, i will go for a brass one, by the way do you use a 6v 4.5 amp battery or a 6v 5amp battery? Is it ok to run my receiver on the 6v SLA battery using the BEC or would you advise to run the receiver seperatley? Regards, Dave.
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Hi Dave I run mine on a 6V 5amp SLA and a seperate supply [4AA batteries] for Rx.
You can use a 6V 4.5amp if you want.
You can run the Rx of the Bec if you like.
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Sorry guys. just re-measured my prop, this time with my reading glasses on, and it is of course 40mm. <:(
Nice Tug DickyD, like that. O0
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High! Just wondering how people run the receiver aerial. Do you have it running vertically outside the boat or horizontally around the inside of the hull?? Regards, Dave.
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Either, it doesn't matter.
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Cheers! thanks for that, i have,nt given up at getting my Dickie tug running once and for all!!!! Regards, Dave.