Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Pleasure boats, Sports, Race, Power and Leisure Boats: => Topic started by: Sonparc on December 21, 2006, 09:02:01 pm
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I am looking for a competitive plastic hull to make into a racer,can anyone please advise where I can buy one.I have asked the usual main sources such as Westbourne and Preswich.
Thanks in advance
Sonparc
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Hi Sonparc,
The supplier of the Club 500 is
http://www.modelslipway.com/
Regards Bob
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Thanks for your reply Bob,I am aware of this kit ,what I am looking for is a hull that I can build from. In my club there are some very fast scratch built boats.
Sonparc
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Hi Sonpark,
You could still consider a Club 500 from Model Slip Way.
If you don't have to stick to the Club 500 rules.
You can just by a boat shell and topsides from him, and then build to your own specs.
I have one that is cut down by approx 5 cms. plastic being removed from deck and hull sides. I have added spray rials to the chine edges, and squared off the transom. Fitted a racing tube and shaft and a much hotter motor. The motor is mounted on a fast electric style bracket, and the saddle style battery pack runs along the centre line of the hull either side of the prop shaft, and not across it. I used the servo and receiver tray, but mounted it at the back of the hull, with a large access hole in it to get to the rudder fitting.
I did find that with a 17 turn double motor and eight cells, it reached the maximum it can handle, but am still to add a turn fin to the transom, which most boats at this spec. would have, and also intend to fit spray rails (old fashioned term) under the hull.
Good luck with what ever you decide to do.
Bob
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Hi Folks,
;DStarted building a lovely new club500 racing boat. ;D
;)I have also started working on a new blog where you can see what I get up to in my boating adventures ;)
http://www.floatingwombat.me.uk/blogs/index.php?blog=6 :o :o :o
Daniel
(http://floatingwombat.me.uk/blogs/media/PICT0006.JPG)
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Thanks Bob again,some interesting ideas which I will check out with our club rules.I am still surprised that other manufacturers have not got a product for this type of boat.
Sonparc
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Hi Sonparc,
I have just finished building a club 500 boat and reading through the rules for racing, modifications below the water line are not allowed and all standard parts must be used.
Daniel
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Hi again,
Daniel is correct regarding the rules, but it does depend on whether you wish to just comply with your own club rules, or be able to compete at open meetings with other clubs.
The club I belong to at Bridlington, has decided to allow various mods to be done. Motor-prop-shaft and coupling are all as supplied, but it is allowed to sharpen hull edges and move batteries as desired. There may be other mods allowed at our club and elswhere, but I am not compeating this year, so I am not up to date with the exact rules.
Bob
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Hi all
does anyone know a club in the North West that runs club 500 races. Fancy having a crack at this.
cheers
M
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Hi Big Mark
My club in Stockport races Club 500 and the season is starting soon.Visit etherowmodelboatclub.co.uk for full info on the club and you will find the Club 500 section with the rules and the race days in the diary section.
Hope this helps
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HI,
Nice colour
I'll look on your blog from time to time when I,m home on leave
Richard,
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Daniel,
Are you bringing it to the club night on Wednesday (7th March)? It's builders night - tell your Dad to bring his boats as well.
Barrie
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Hi Barry,
what time does the meeting start?
Thanks Daniel ;D
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Hi Folks,
talking about club 500 races does anyone know anywhere in the staffordshire area that currently runs the club 500?
Thanks Daniel
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my son burnt out the speed controller on his club 500 boat today , actually used the wrong battery and it caught fire !
Can someone suggest where and as important what type of controller to get.
7.2v club 500 boat
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Hi,
I run my club 500 on a mtronic Viper 15a, I also have run the boat with up to 9.6v with no problems
ro88o
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Hi cliffords,
I am using the Viper 25 in my Club 500.
I found with the previous range of controllers, that the 25 gave the motor more speed than the 20 amp version. Maybe some internal resistance.
Also, you can't cool the controller with the Club 500 rules.
I'm sure PMK will know.
Bob
http://www.fastelectricsrfun.co.uk/club500/CLUB500.htm Then click on photo file, and scroll down to the bottom
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Thanks to you both
There is a big difference in cost between the two, will I get away with the lower cost one 15 ?
Also the same manufacturer does very cheap batteries , will they melt or will they run the 500 also
Thanks for the help
http://www.mtroniks.net/index.asp
having looked at this website , can I buy direct from them anyway?
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Hi,
If you can afford the 25a then go for it, cause if you get weeded up my speed control would proberbly blow up.
I use a 15a but have a weed free pool and I already had the esc
good luck
ro88o
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Hi.
Just been sorting out a problem with a friend's Club 500 and managed to blow up two ESC's in the process, a 15 and 18 amp. I have now fitted a Jeti 50 amp (BEC) in it which I got almost brand new from Ebay........Bargain at £6.12 including postage!
Cheers,
Ian.
8)
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Mine runs fine with a mtronic viper 15a. Is fine on tempurate, running for nearly an hour on full throttle with a 4300mah battery
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Why not just use a micro switch on or off? as when racing you don't go at half chat! O0
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we have used both controllers and microswitches the only thing that controllers give you is more controll around corners otherwise a microswitch is just fine but remember to put a fuse in line whichever you use :)
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The best cells I have used with my club 500 have been Sanyo 2000 Nicads. I would go for an ESC rated at 25 amps or more as the motor can pull a lot of current if it is stalled. I am considering changing to a reversible controller as this can help un-foul the prop if there are problems with weed on your lake. Whatever you use make sure it is waterproof either by design or by modification.
Neil
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The Mtronkic 15a speed controller is fine on mine, even when the weed does stop the prop. Plus you can use the new generation 4500mah nimhs on them.
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Hi,
I will firstly say that this boat does not have to apply for the club 500 race rules as it WILL NOT be raced.
The question is what upgrades can be made to a club 500 hull to make it run better and faster.
I would like to hear of possible motor, hardware and electronic upgrades. O0 I look forward to hearing your suggestions.
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Hi explorer750,
I run a Club 500 FQ (fairly quick)
I have cut down the hull to the bow chine line, and carried this removal through to the transom. The transom has been warmed up and flattened off to fit the new deck line. The Deck is also cut down, giving a lip of 5mm from deck level all the way round. This makes the boat approx 45mm lower.
I have glued two styrene strips on the chine line on the side of the hull and filled the gap with car body filler to give a sharp chine brake off point. I have done the same across the transom. ( The standard hull has very soft edges which is not good. (Bad)
The motor mount is made of ply wood and is a pair of runners approx 230mm long 70mm apart running down the hull. with a cross member to which the motor mounts. The back edge of the motor is 230mm from the transom. The battery pack also sits between these runners, so the pack runs down the middle of the hull (not across as original) on a ply platform as low to the hull as pos. just above the prop shaft.
The shaft is a slim line m4 racing shaft. I also removed the prop exit molding under the hull.
The original mount for servo and receiver is retained but fitted close to the transom. A 25mm hole is cut in the middle to allow the rudder tube access.
The motor is a seventeen turn double running on eight cells and a metal prop. Obviously water cooled.
On this set up with fresh cells it's a bit twitchy. I intend to try a turn fin fitted to the transom and also spray rails under the hull.
Unlike the standard boat, I have been unable to flip the hull no matter how hard I try.
Bob
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Hi explorer750,
I run a Club 500 FQ (fairly quick)
Unlike the standard boat, I have been unable to flip the hull no matter how hard I try.
Bob
Now I find that hard to believe. LOL 8)
Cheers Mate,
Ian
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Hi Ian,
Sorry to hear you've been unwell.
Called in to the show on Saturday and Ted told me.
Wish you a full and speedy recovery.
Best regards Bob.
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Unlike the standard boat, I have been unable to flip the hull no matter how hard I try.
I have only run mine in standard form, and still not managed to flip it even by turning side on to a wave at full pelt.
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They have a habit of turning over if they come into contact with other club 500's when racing.
I have had my revised version on its side after clipping buoys, but it has always kept correct side up.
Bob
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Could you run a club 500 with a surface drive system? Would it be any better?
Also can someone suggest a motor upgrade, Brushless possibly.
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Hi again,
I see no reason why not. (Surface drive)
I have a crackerbox that was rubbish, and I changed that to surface drive with better results. Still wont turn though. But it did stop it porpoising
The old sloopy was also used with surface drive to good effect. As I understand it, surface drive boats don't turn so well, but I have an ian williams boat with surface drive that almost turns in its own length in both directions.
The best thing is to suck it and see, you can always fill in the hole and try something else.
Regards Bob
Bob
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Now here,s a question to get the weekend going .......what colour is fastest BBDave says that Yellow is quickest what is the real answer come on all you club 500 racers spill the beans :P
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Could be:
Racing Red
Whoosh White
Blistering Blue
Galloping Green
Or Even
Pulsating Pink O0
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Hi all,
Well from my experience with Club 500 racing, I would definitely say that Yellow boats are quickest.
I was world champion of Bridlington THREE years in succession. and once runner up. (to a green boat) >:(
My old boat was taken over by a new owner, and is doing very well this year (it is now in its sixth season)
and has just broken the club record for the most laps in a single club 500 race.
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the weekend isn't only about springers there is also club500 raceing just that the title of the thread says re springer tugs lighten up Stavros it's only fun ::) perhaps as a moderator if you don't like it move it to another thread
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Well, we have been racing Club 500's at Alfold Charity Show this weekend, I came third, I was running a white hull, yellow deck, blue cabin with white windows purple and yellow strips. Unfortunately the boat is now a lot worse for wear, I feel another 500 racer coming along very soon.
Alan
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Well we have a kayak at the club that is 'Mighty Green' (official Liquid Logic name), and has subsequently been nicknamed Zeus 'The Mighty Green Kayak'
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Me been rather busy today as I built a 500 in less than 7hrs without really trying.
Everything you could possibly need apart from the obvious is included in this kit from Model Slipway.Right what do you get,well hull ,deck,superstructure,batt holder,electrics tray,rudder post strengthener,Motor mount,propshaft and prop,motor,rudder,comprehensive inst book.
I started off by trimming the hull and every conceivable part that needed trimming just to speed up the build process.The propshaft hole and rudder post were both drilled and aligned up,the rudder support,electrics tray and the motor mount were all epoxied in all at the same time with 30min glue.Next it was the turn of the deck to the hull with the same glue.The rudder servo was next and this was stuck down with automotive double sided tape,followed by the speed controller and receiver.A hole was drilled for the aerial and the superstructure locating tabs were installed,one at the front and 2 at the stern.Hopefully I will test it out tomorrow and post the results
Stavros
1 What you get in the kit
2 Motor mount
3 Rudder support
4 Electrics tray and batt tray glued in
5 Motor on it's mount
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6 Hull and deck glued together
7 Cabin roof with the window transfers stuck on
8 Electrical installation
9 In all her glory
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What glues did you use?
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Only one Martin Zap epoxy 30 mins
http://zap.supergluecorp.com/pt39.html
Stavros
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I built one a few weeks back great fun on our local lake and we went racing up at bridlington a couple of weeks ago at there springer and club 500 weekend which was even more fun! here's a couple of pics of mine with modified v8. why did you go for blue stavros could you not handle the speed of yellow {-). i've had to put red stripes on to slow her down!
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/Model%20boats/P1000574.jpg)
(http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/bbdave/Model%20boats/P1000575.jpg)
O0
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Can anyone show me a simple way of sharpening up the transom edge?
Where did you get the little V8 BBdave?
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Why do you want to do that Martin, you going to cheat are we.The V8 come s with the kit Martin I got one to
Stavros
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Have you run her yet stavros?
Yep kit part Martin just played a little with mine (need to get out more)
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Not yet dammed electrics in the Eldergarth took up all my time and it went to late >>:-(
Stavros
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Just come back from playing all I can say is WOW sorry no piccs bought new camera so could not do 2 things at once will post some on sun
Stavros
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ask laurie at model slipway
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will get my 500 fixed after it broke the arial tube at it's last outing and see if it still runs after being sat on a shelf for the last however many months it's been
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I have been playing hard and racing hard, now on my forth club 500 with another cut out ready for building.
Alan
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fraid i'd have to say i've never been happy with the performance of my 500, it isn't fast enough for me
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Not a fast boat in 'out & out' speed but in the club class all things are equal! O0
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martin posted a piccie of the hull for my new build on my thread
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Daniel
I would like something a bit faster occasionally myself, but our club sails in a country park and it is as fast as we are allowed to use on the lake. We used to have a couple of members with faster electric boats, but they where told by the park wardens to remove them from the water. We are allowed club 500's.
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yeah i guess it depends where you sail as to the limit on the speed of the boat that can be used
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Hi All,
Seems christmas came early for me, i have just taken delivery of a club 500 in green, and when i opened the box i got 1 hell of a shock, didnt expect quite so many bits for something that looked quite simple on the website.
fingers crossed the radio gear and speed controller come tomorrow.
just wondering though in the instructions it says to use 2 part epoxy glue which i dont have any of, but i do have a load of humbrol polycement that i used to use on static plastic model, would this do the job or should i go to B&Q and get some 2 part epoxy?
thanks
adie
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Get some 2 part epoxy, you might find a cheap one in the local £pound shop.
30 minute stuff if you have never used it before, 5 minute if you have.
Rough up the surfaces first.
You could try Humbrol poly cement on off cuts to see if it holds.
Leave it at last an hour and try to tear the two pieces apart. If the plastic tears first, it's good enough.
Just be careful of melting.
Stabalit Express doesn't work! {:-{
Let me know if you need more info as I have a photo build blog of mine if needs be.
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Adie
The boat just might meet something at speed at some time in its life. If it does its better not to re-kit
So building some toughness into the seams - especially the deck-to hull joint is a GOOD PLAN - so is adding some built in buoyancy
If it helps I have discovered 151 Epoxy from pound shops - costs a pound!
Amazingly it works well, too and I add quite a lot of microbaloons as well for gap-filling and lightness and sandability
I don't do 5-minute epoxies, and dislike most of the 30-minute ones - they seem to set rubbery and don't adhere as well as I like. If you heat them on a radiator, lightbulb or mosquito killer they all harden in 10 minutes or so!
Is the boat a styrene moulding? If so you can certainly use a solvent adhesive for the smaller joints, and adding doublers, etc.
You might consider using hot-melt as well for fixing things inside, like motor mounts. Silicone bathtub sealant is another good adhesive which is permanent but removable
andrew
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thanks for the advice, had never even considered bathroom sealent, got stacks of that in shed as i brought in bulk when i got my house as i planned to rip out the bathroom and kitchen....it never happened lol.
will give the polycement a try on a scrap piece and see what happens, if not ill go get some epoxy.
btw now got a racing pack and all the radio gear arrived while i was out so im really happy now and christmas really has started early.
if anyone can point me to there build logs that would be cool as it was quite daunting when i open the box and found 10 pieces, didnt expect that many lol.
thanks
adie
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Hi Adie,
Welcome to the 'Club 500 'club, just don't take the racing too seriously! Terrific fun, like dogems on water only faster.
If you go to www.glue-it.com/boats/gallery/club500.html (http://www.glue-it.com/boats/gallery/club500.html) you will find their initial build review and then go to www.glue-it.com/boats/gallery/club500-2.html (http://www.glue-it.com/boats/gallery/club500-2.html) for their update, the pages don't seem to open but scroll down and they are there, just a long way down. I and a lot of others used 'No Nails' or something like that as the knocks you get when racing can cause epoxy to come away from the surface and leave a gap, even after roughening it up. When you build it you will find that the joint between the hull and the deck has some fairly big gaps and is not a close fit so 'poly' type cement doesn't seal it and some folk found that 'bath seal' again comes away after being knocked hard. The main point is to align the motor and shaft before you seal them in using about 1 1/2 volts to turn the motor slowly and use a multi meter set to 'Amps' to watch the current rise and fall and secure it at the lowest reading, time consuming but well worth it in the end. Make sure that you have it on a stand to stop the hull twisting when you do this.
Have fun :-)),
Paul.
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This thread is turning up some very useful info on adhesives.
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Hi All,
Just to let you know that i tried the poly cement on a sample piece and after an hour it was tough but the pieces parted and were still tacky, so did another piece and left it overnight, this morning i couldnt part them, even with 2 pairs of pliers i could break the bond.
thanks
adie
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Don't know how my club 500 is held together as stavros built it :-)) and now it has a new battery it goes like stink.
Just one thing i have encountered whist whizzing around on the pond is flipping inverted :embarrassed: ,has anyone any ideas in a self righting modification?? .
daz
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Glue together then sand down or trim and fit one over the other then glue
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Trim the top & the hull. Fit the top over the hull.
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This may help... http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/My_models/Club500/index.html (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/My_models/Club500/index.html)
(http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/My_models/Club500/images/Club500_022.jpg)
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thanks very much all,
i now know what im doing...first time for everything i know.
thats quite a collection of photos you have there martin, very good work.
thanks
adie
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1 thing i have just noticed though martin, on the back of your motor you have fitted some extra components ( its too early in the monring to think of the name of them), what are these for and do i need to install them?
thanks
adie
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1 thing i have just noticed though martin, on the back of your motor you have fitted some extra components ( its too early in the morning to think of the name of them), what are these for and do i need to install them?
The components are a 'electrical noise suppression kit'. I don't think I need them but in sometimes motors are a bit 'noisy' and
produce electrical interference with the radio which can cause various problems such as rudder jitter, loss of range, motor
interruptions. I'm told the component values are quite critical but any small disk capacitors seem to work for me! %)
http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/stuff2.php (http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/stuff2.php)
http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?REFPAGE=http%3a%2f%2fwww.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk%2findex.html&WD=suppression&PN=geared_motors.html%23a1_21259#a1_21259 (http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?REFPAGE=http%3a%2f%2fwww.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk%2findex.html&WD=suppression&PN=geared_motors.html%23a1_21259#a1_21259)
NB: In photo 73, 74 &75 you see I'd fitted a plastic washer on the rudder, this is because it was binding against the bottom of the hull... that's because the rubber 'O ring' included actually fits between the rudder tube flange and the outside of the hull.... obviously I found this out after I had glued it in place! :embarrassed:
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Hi All,
Martins photos were a god send as photos are easier to understand than the instructions
Great idea Martin
ro88o0
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I'm an undercover agent for Model Slipway really! :-))
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Martin
With some of the shirts I have seen you in, I am not sure you have quite got the hang of undercover :} :} :} :} :} :} :} :}
Brian
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{-)
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Before I put scissors to plastic, can anyone explain how much I need to cut off the deck moulding before it is joined to the hull. Looking at the join with the deck fitted there is too much plastic hanging down but I can not see anywhere how much to chop off.
Brian
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hi chingdevil,
I have in my hand a Club 500 deck, that has been trimmed but not yet glued to the hull.
Measured from the underside of the deck, the lip at the bow is 7mm and runs to the transom to a depth of 28mm measured at the side of the deck in a continuous drop.
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Thanks Bobf
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Hi all,
So are we racing our club 500 at this years Mayhem at wicksteed
ro88o0
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Yep! :-)) .... What are the motor rules?
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Hi all,
Boat to be built as per the kit. Thats the rules with the kit
ro88o0
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Ah dose that mean i have to get a club 500 for Wicksted park.
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Yes you do!
Lots of Club 500 heat racing at Wicksteed May 23, 24.
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Oh I say dash it all
now I'll have to learn to go round the buoys and not hit them head on :embarrassed: :embarrassed: :embarrassed:
Doug (must get in some sneaky practice :-X )
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I am new to this Club 500 racing and will soon have one ready for the spring. What speed controller, RX & TX should I use? I ahve a spare Spektrum DX5e here, anyone run one on 2.4Ghz? Nearly forgot what battery is recommended too? Thank you.
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we also have Club500 racing in Germany, there are at least two guys that use 2.4Ghz sets.
ours rules state SUB 'C' cells, speed controller and radio gear is your own choice...
speed controller i use a V4 from GM (Graupner), radio i use my normal grauper set..
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Thanks Colin, 2.4Ghz is suitanle then!
Anyone else have any advice/opinions?
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Sail by the seat of your pants , forget the esc .
Fit a servo and a micro switch , then all you get is OFF and OH MY GOD! %% .
daz
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Mayhem would like to point out the 'Daz' is currently happily still living in the dark ages.
( Only joking like! ok2 - Martin)
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I opperate on the basis of ,
if you cant make it that complicated even you don't understand how you did it {:-{.
Then K.I.S.S. how simple could it be ,easly turn off 'n' onable :-)) .
daz.
we got some new stuff last week , called tricity or summit, now wheres me banjo,ping pling {-)
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there are some people at my local club who still think Bob's Boards are the dog's things, and that electronic speed controllers will never catch on, you can tell who they are they are the ones sandpapering the board before every run and then asking if you could try and push there boat in 5 min later .
peter
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Ah, bob`s boards that brings back memories, i worked in a model shop in glasgow for a short time in the late 80`s, and those things used to fly out the door. very very popular :-))
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but what i would like to know is ,
Who is Bob?
:D
daz
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but what i would like to know is ,
Who is Bob?
:D
daz
Dont know, but he used to make very popular boards {-) {-) {-) {-)
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Dont know, but he used to make very popular boards {-) {-) {-) {-)
Is it Bob the Builder ??????
Have you lot ever heard of "ACTION ELECTRONICS " ? Dave makes very nice speed controllers that work. Go on knock your pipe out & buy one.
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Re building a club 500. As you may remember, I was world champion of Bridlington three years running. :-)) So having just come back to the model boating world and forum, can I add an extra tip that most of us will already know. When removing the inner deck for access to the inside after building, leave at least a 10mm lip, all round the inside. This will then enable you to tape in a waterproof cover to stop water getting in when the boat flips. (which it will do at some time). >:-o If you glue a lip under the inner deck edge, then the piece you cut out, can be re fixed during sailing with water proof tape, so there will be no water in the boat when it is rescued. :-) Also stick some bubble wrap to the cabin top or it will sink when it comes off during raceing. <:( This may have been posted before but just in case.
Hi Daz, perhaps I'm the original bob of bob's board fame?
A micro switch set up weighs a lot more than an ESC, and being able to come just off the power is a lot better than stop starting. Weight kills speed. Do you want to take part or win? 8)
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WELCOME BACK BOB
Glad to see you back on the forum , any information from a world (brid) champion is well worth listening to .
Or do as i did and buy one ready built from sir Stavros :} .
daz
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Hi Daz,
He who makes no mistakes makes nothing, so they say.
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Too right Bob , my last one sank
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=21863.0;topicseen
daz