Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => The "Black Arts!" ( Electrics & Electronics ) => Topic started by: Subculture on May 24, 2010, 03:05:10 pm
-
Just a couple of pictures of my FC16, which I have just converted to 2.4ghz using the DIY kit from Corona.
Giantcod distribute this kit in the UK. It cost about £25 and comes with everything you need, including a very nice little 8-channel receiver. Bargain!
I wanted to retain 40mhz, as 2.4ghz is hopeless for submarines, but liked the idea of having a 2.4ghz option for surface craft and aeroplanes. I was also less than keen on shelling out for yet another TX. The conversion is straightforward, there are just four wires to connect- power, ground, ppm and aerial, although I would recommend it only to folk who have good soldering skills, and know what a PPM pulse is and how to find it in their TX. A lot of TX's have a buddy box connector, but the FC-16 doesn't. Instead there is a socket marked 'Trainer' on the main PCB, and the PPM pulse can be taken from there.
I added a small toggle switch so I can switch power from my 40mhz tuner to the 2.4ghz board, I had to remove a link on the Futaba PCB for this. The conversion took a couple of hours, and hour of that was spent planning where to locate the aerial, TX board and binding switch/LED! Performance of the system so far has indicated it is superb. Highly recommended.
(http://s2.postimage.org/49mnS.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=Ts49mnS)
(http://s2.postimage.org/49eUr.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=Ts49eUr)
-
Bah I have to get one now for my FC16! More expense. Maybe I can have a peek at it at St Albans...
-
Ha, ha!
Cheaper than a Spektrum though, and a better system apparently. GC do some very neat little four channel receivers for a tenner that will go well in park flyers/cars/boats etc.
The Jeti system is superior in that it allows telemetry, but I don't really require that, and you will pay quite a premium for the Jeti kit.
I'll bring it along on the 13th and show you what's involved.
-
Reckon it'll work in my 6EX's?
-
This module will work with just about any modern radio.
Not that familiar with the 6EX (i.e. not owned one) does it have a buddy box connector?
-
Yep got the 6 pin square trainer port on it.
-
If it's like this-
(http://www.ianjohnston.com/content/images/stories/IanJ/FutabaJoystick/futabaplug.jpg)
Then you have all the connections on the same socket. 'Signal out' is your PPM, switched '+V' should be the 9.6 volts from your battery (check with a multimeter), and ground is self-explanatory. Depending on where the port is located, you may have to wire in a little extension to the wiring, or you can trace where the wires go back to the main board, and piggyback off of there.
The tuner board on your TX will probably be a separate board, so it's usually fairly easy to find the positive voltage feed, and wire in a toggle or slide switch so you can switch between 35mhz and 2.4ghz, or just isolate it completely if you're not bothered about running 35mhz any more.
Another simple way to isolate the 35mhz is to just remove the crystal from the TX.
-
Excellent, I'll be getting one of them then. Cheers :-))
-
Just a note on the plug I have done a few of these mods and found on some txs the + pin is not always switched, my 9c had it live at all times when I fitted a Jeti unit, so I took it of the back of the switch.
I did a cheap 3 channel convertion by getting a plug in module with receiver £15 +£3 post from r2 hobbies and just taking it out of the case. the TX bit will do as many channels as the TX will do just the receiver was only 3 channel but it was all that was needed on that one, soldering the ant lead is a bit tricky if you have not done that type of soldering before, just be quick, the coax is better than the old mini stuff that I have used some years ago.
Peter
-
Whats the perfomance like on the Corona and how do you find binding and such of the RX? I spoted that Giant Cod also sell a another system by FRSky for twice the money. Whats really cought my eye with these comapred to the module swap upgrades is than you can retain 40MHz. My Graupner has an internal removable 40mhz module that connects with a 3pin plug so I am gussing its Ground, -ve and +VE (all wires are white so no clues). So it will just be a matter os splicing together the -ve and Ground wires from the Corona module to the existing wires and toggleing the +ve wires to switch between 40mhz/2.4Ghz?
-
on some of the German sites there are a few people who have fitted the Jeti unit and there is a shop that even does a small harness that just plugs in , its the same wiring as the corona so you could get one and use it with the corona its all just plugs in then.
peter
-
I've just tried out my idea the other day I told you about on facebook. Stuck a 40 meg crystal in my 35 meg Futaba 6EXAP and used both a Sanwa 40 meg Rx and a Futaba 35 meg Rx. Works perfectly. I'm beggining to regret selling all my 35 meg recievers about a month ago...
-
I've just tried out my idea the other day I told you about on facebook. Stuck a 40 meg crystal in my 35 meg Futaba 6EXAP and used both a Sanwa 40 meg Rx and a Futaba 35 meg Rx. Works perfectly. I'm beggining to regret selling all my 35 meg recievers about a month ago...
check you range, you will find it is only very short.
-
The performance is good, absolutely zero glitching, range appears to be good.
It operates using 10 bits, so that gives you 1024 resolution on each channel. Binding is a cinch, you just press a button on the TX to put it in bind mode, do the same on the receiver, cycle the power, and that's it. It takes a couple of seconds for the TX and RX to find one another each time you switch on. The RX has programmable failsafes too.
The Jeti is better kit, as it has telemetry but it's a lot more expensive. For me, the Corona kit is good enough and much cheaper.
I think the FRsky has a more powerful TX, it looks like it has a better range. Plus it has a more sophisticated spreading system- perhaps valuable if you're flying 1/4 scalers, or where there are a lot of users.
I fly foamies, and usually in a deserted field.
The Corona is rated at about 1500m, I think that's sufficient for anything I'm likely to control.
-
As an important by the by regarding the FrSky system, it is CE and FCC certificated, CE certification is important if you ever need to take advantage of BMFA insurance after a flying mishap.
Also, FrSky are in the final phases of development of a telemetry system which looks quite exciting - further from a technical standpoint the FrSky 2.4ghz is a robust system implementing full channel hopping ie if it finds interference it doesn't matter because it 'hops' away a la Futaba FASST system.
-Rob
-
The Corona system has CE FCC printed on the box. Not a member of the BMFA so can't really comment on that.
-
Mankster the jeti unit now has a lead and switch made by them all ready for your tx just plug and fit. but more expensive, but you can get real time data from boat and it is EU made.
http://www.jetimodel.com/index.php?page=product&id=154
http://www.jetimodel.com/index.php?page=product&id=153
-
Mankster the jeti unit now has a lead and switch made by them all ready for your tx just plug and fit. but more expensive, but you can get real time data from boat and it is EU made.
http://www.jetimodel.com/index.php?page=product&id=154
http://www.jetimodel.com/index.php?page=product&id=153
Thanks for that switch only costs a few £ and the plugs look like that will plug into the trainer port on the FC-16 as well as the Graupner. It should work with the Corna gear as well Jeti. I might just the Corona (cant really go wrong for £25 for the conversion kit and a 8Ch Rx) and the switch kit. It only going to be for surface craft.
-
What I did with mine was solder the ppm and ground connection straight onto the Trainer port pins, and applied heatshrink to each connection to give some strain relief. I'm never likely to use the Trainer port, and even if I did, I would make up my own lead anyway, plus I prefer to avoid using plugs and sockets wherever possible.
-
Saw this one on another forum, one or two seem to like it
http://www.rc-modules.com/
Regards Ian.
-
Looking at those, you would need to hack the module to use them in the way the DIY module is used. In fact quit e a few people have done this in the past, but it's a more expensive way of going about things.
A few more shots of the conversion, this time the internals-
(http://s3.postimage.org/JnIVi.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=PqJnIVi)
Binding button and LED. A sticker is supplied with the kit giving you the drilling positions for the button, LED and fixing bolts.
(http://s3.postimage.org/JogQi.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=PqJogQi)
On the inside I added two small washers/standoffs fashioned from G10 sheet (any plastic will do) I also added an insulating washer on the top, as I was worried about a short from one of the tracks to earth. This was cut from an old plastic milk bottle (push the boat out don't I?)
(http://s3.postimage.org/Jo1Sr.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=PqJo1Sr)
The TX module. I modified the aerial connection slightly, by adding a flylead to the earth connection/shield. I wasn't too happy with the kit solution- felt it was prone to breaking off and needed a little more flexibility. I sited the module in place of the CAMPAC board (which I don't use as I have a memory chip sited elsewhere) on a piece of fashioned G10 epoxy sheet, and held it in place with a zip tie (not supplied).
(http://s3.postimage.org/JoDhA.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=PqJoDhA)
Shot from a different angle, this shows the take off from the Trainer plug, with pin 2 the PPM and pin 4 ground. The take off for power to the toggle switch is just below the electrolytic cap to the left of the trainer socket
-
I have just done the the Corona conversion on one my TX's. Originally I was going to fit it to my FC-16 for boat use, but in the mean time I decided to have a go with a park flyer trainer. I figured a smaller hand held TX would be easier than a large tray type TX for flying. £60 on eBay resulted in this almost new 35Mhz band Futaba T7CP (plenty of decent 35~Mhz gear on there at the moment as flyer switch to new 2.4Ghz gear). Its a step up from the usual Futaba 6EXA range with jog dial, larger screen, extra channel and assignable switches. Installation was pretty straight forward, easier than for the FC-16 as the +Ve, Gnd and PPM wires are clearly marked on the Futaba RF board. Again I chose to keep the existing 35Mhx RF function by fitting a double pole double throw switch, to switch between the two bands ( if you only do boats you can omit the switch and fit the stubby 2.4Ghz areal in place of the standard metal one). I have only tested it indoors but all seems fine. So a high end Radio with 2.4Ghz and an 8Ch RX for around £85. Extra 8Ch Rx's are around £15 each. I'll be fitting one in my FC-16 for boat use too.
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/dec2f7f6.jpg)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/8619af1d.jpg)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/248b2376.jpg)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/67efaa43.jpg)
-
I have just done the the Corona conversion on one my TX's. Originally I was going to fit it to my FC-16 for boat use, but in the mean time I decided to have a go with a park flyer trainer. I figured a smaller hand held TX would be easier than a large tray type TX for flying. £60 on eBay resulted in this almost new 35Mhz band Futaba T7CP (plenty of decent 35~Mhz gear on there at the moment as flyer switch to new 2.4Ghz gear). Its a step up from the usual Futaba 6EXA range with jog dial, larger screen, extra channel and assignable switches. Installation was pretty straight forward, easier than for the FC-16 as the +Ve, Gnd and PPM wires are clearly marked on the Futaba RF board. Again I chose to keep the existing 35Mhx RF function by fitting a double pole double throw switch, to switch between the two bands ( if you only do boats you can omit the switch and fit the stubby 2.4Ghz areal in place of the standard metal one). I have only tested it indoors but all seems fine. So a high end Radio with 2.4Ghz and an 8Ch RX for around £85. Extra 8Ch Rx's are around £15 each. I'll be fitting one in my FC-16 for boat use too.
just out of interest have you disabled 35mhz when using 2.4 and have you checked to see if it is still transmitting.? because it looks like you are only switching the signal to the 35mhz board so it will still have the PA alive
Peter
-
Yes the switch I mounted on top of the case switches Power (+Ve) and the signal from the main board. So I can either send power and signal to the 35Mhz RF board or to the Corona 2.4Ghz module but not to both at the same time.
-
Purely as an aside, what where Futaba thinking when they stuck a cheesy plastic handle on their FF7?
-
Purely as an aside, what where Futaba thinking when they stuck a cheesy plastic handle on their FF7?
I guess to differentiate it from the high end (and probably more profitable) FF9c which came out a few years earlier with siimlar screen, programming and the same 'Jog Dial'. It had very similiar features too but was a good £150 more expensive for 2 extra channnels.
-
You're bang on. The FF9 is just a beefed-up version of the FF7 anyway, but just a shame that they had to cheapen what is otherwise a very fine radio with that quirky molded handle. It gives an almost 'toy' sense and at first glance distracts from all the goodies within. Because, as any Futaba owner will testify, apart from the fact that all the same-coloured internal blue wires makes fault-finding a nightmare, the build quality also is actually second to none.
-
Another FC-16 converted to switchable 2.4Ghz/40mhz. Spooted these kits are now less than £25 inc a 8Channel RX from Giant Cod.
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/1c6288e1.jpg)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/6f5f1705.jpg)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/118522d1.jpg)
-
i converted a Graupner FM214 the other week, everything worked fantastic.
i now have two more DIY sets on order.
-
Here is a Youtube Video which is alo on the Giant Cod Site re the conversion kit.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HRQ0vAHxYDA&feature=player_embedded#!
When I saw this thread I ordered one straight away and received it within 2 days..
Now I have a few Probably stupid questions I am hoping you electronic experts can help me out with as I would like to retain the 40MHz option.
I have a Futaba Skysport 40Mhz 6A FP - T6VA with a buddy socket , however mine is round rather then the oblong ones.
1.At first glance there appears to not be any place I can take + - off other than direct from the battery, or running the battery to the new on/off switch and then back to the original futaba connector.. My only worry here is if I did that and then used the charging socket might I damage the 2.4 system ?
2.(stupid question) On the Cod board there is the bit that says ant , I assume you solder the very thin central aerial wire to this, But do you then solder the outer cable to the solder tab just above it ? See I knew you would be on the floor in stitches or reaching for the phone to say NO Stop , we already have a water shortage we don't want a powerout age as well..
Just to reassure you I can solder but have never tried anything like this before..
Thanks Larry
Sure I will have more questions later
-
Larry,
Me and Bluebird converted a 6A about 2 weeks ago and used the trainer socket to pick up the +ve, -ve and the signal. We removed the original aerial and fitted the new aerial, drilled the front for the bind button and LED.
i googled for an image for the trainer socket for the pin identification and we used this to solder the wires inside.
and yes you are correct for #2 the thin wire to the ant and the outer to the larger solder pad beside it.
I will post a photo showing the insides tomorrow
Riggers
-
Much Appreciated :-))
-
Larry,
Me and Bluebird converted a 6A about 2 weeks ago
Riggers
Is this an age thing Riggers, not the way I heard it ? {:-{
Is this for one of your unfinished boats ? ok2
-
Is this an age thing Riggers, not the way I heard it ? {:-{
Is this for one of your unfinished boats ? ok2
SO WHAT DID YOU HEAR!!!!!!!
-
No need to shout my man. :-))
-
Here is the unit with the original aerial removed
(http://s1.postimage.org/R0nai.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=gxR0nai)
Here is a photo showing the three wires soldered to trainer socket
(http://s4.postimage.org/JXG2i.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=aVJXG2i)
Here is the corona board and the smaller bind/LED board
(http://s1.postimage.org/R0YAr.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=gxR0YAr)
To hold the smaller board in place use a small piece of cut foam out of the packaging box and the back of the battery box of the rear cover will hold it in place
here is the website I found with the information on the trainer socket we used http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://users.belgacom.net/TX2TX/tx2tx/image/fig3-03.gif&imgrefurl=http://users.belgacom.net/TX2TX/tx2tx/english/tx2txgb3.htm&usg=__Vp-HfHLPYsSn2GLQKv_3IDKxUwI=&h=316&w=425&sz=6&hl=en&start=7&um=1&itbs=1&tbnid=NBW7MWV2pABPUM:&tbnh=94&tbnw=126&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dfutaba%2Btrainer%2Bsocket%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26hs%3D4xP%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-GB:official%26tbs%3Disch:1 (http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://users.belgacom.net/TX2TX/tx2tx/image/fig3-03.gif&imgrefurl=http://users.belgacom.net/TX2TX/tx2tx/english/tx2txgb3.htm&usg=__Vp-HfHLPYsSn2GLQKv_3IDKxUwI=&h=316&w=425&sz=6&hl=en&start=7&um=1&itbs=1&tbnid=NBW7MWV2pABPUM:&tbnh=94&tbnw=126&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dfutaba%2Btrainer%2Bsocket%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26hs%3D4xP%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-GB:official%26tbs%3Disch:1)
-
hi guys would this unit work with a futaba sky sport 6 i hope so as ive been wondering what to do with this remote for a while naw and 2.4 would open the possibility some what
-
Like the one above ?
Hope so as thats what I am converting. Once I sort out my Soldering iron.. <*<
-
hope you get it to work and please post step by step picks if you could always better when somebody has done it first lol :-))
-
I thought that owners of the tried n tested PCM 1024 range of Futaba gear might like to try this oh so simple conversion for themselves ?
Took my ol' 8 channel Tx..added a Corona 2.4 Ghz module...bought several recevers of vaying numbers of channels...et voila, I now have just the one Tx for all types of models
No more XTL changes and no interference
-
if anyone is looking for instructions of how to convert there Trannies...
i found this site and dokumentation very helpfull for Graupner and Futaba, it maily shows how to connect a learner / Pilot system, but the conections and were the PPM signal can be found was very helpfull for me.
some of the written text originats from an english document, this website is in German, the pictures spell a thousend words and i didnt realy need to read the text.
http://www.rc-network.de/magazin/artikel_03/art_03-0069/art_03-0069-00.html
-
just a thought , is it possible to use this kit to convert any make of radio ? ive got a couple of hitec sets id like to upgrade !
-
just a thought , is it possible to use this kit to convert any make of radio ? ive got a couple of hitec sets id like to upgrade !
Yes any radio in PPM mode.
-
Anyone converted a Multiplex Cockpit SX to 2.4G using one of these kits?
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=38786.msg387118#msg387118 (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=38786.msg387118#msg387118)
-
this should help you martin...
http://www.kofs.dk/RC/MPX_Corona_rebuild_1.html# (http://www.kofs.dk/RC/MPX_Corona_rebuild_1.html#)
-
Thanks! :-))
Just ordered a FrSky kit and Rx from GiantCodShark.
http://www.giantshark.co.uk/frsky-24ghz-conversion-hack-module-p-405206.html
http://www.giantshark.co.uk/frsky-v8frii-channel-receiver-p-407563.html