Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Working Vessels => Topic started by: Tug-Kenny RIP on July 30, 2010, 03:59:57 pm
-
Well here we go on my next project. I plan to scratch build the tug HIBERNIA.
I have a bucket full of pictures and have spoken with members and am attempting my own build of the plug to enable me to make a fibreglass hull. I have hit problems like you wouldn't believe, but am coming out into the light and progressing quite nicely. I do have various plans which disagree with each other, but by careful configuring, I hope to truly represent this craft as best I can.
Meanwhile I'm gathering details of my two next builds in readiness for any slack moment. %)
To start then, I decided to make a cardboard version of the frames, as I had this large box lying around. ;)
-
This involved scanning them enlarging them on Adobe photoshop and printing them out. Of course it wasn't that smooth, as they measured wrong on the print out, so it was back to altering the lengths and widths until it came out right. Twenty sheets of copy paper later, we got there 8)
After all this work it was decided to move on to real wood so, we transferred them direct onto 5 ply and cut them out.
-
Then the glaring mistakes came to light ...... {:-{
They were too short !! This was overcome by adding extra pieces to bring them back to size.
As this was a plug it could be made more solid and looks did not matter, as long as the outside shape is achieved.
-
The deck on the Hibernia slopes quite a bit, so we had to cut the frames to match.
We are now ready to cover the frames with planking so , I'll disappear into the wood shop and report back on progress after a lot of sawing. %)
-
Put on the first batch of stringers today. The plan is to cover these with diagonal strips when I've cut them. Smoke came out of my circular saw this afternoon, so it's over to the band saw for a slower cut of the next 200 strips. ;)
This model is turning out to be quite large. %)
-
Crikey Ken you are not hanging about :-)) :-))
-
Ah !! but mine leaks. {-)
Today I looked at it and found it wasn't worth diagonal planking on top ( too much bending and shaping!) , so I ripped off the stringers. I have cut a hundred planks or so and started parallel planking instead. Coming on a treat now. 11 and a half hours today, so it's off for a beer. :-))
Ken
-
Thats a nice model tugmad O0 O0 ;).
\regards John B
-
Further work on planking the Plug. It's beginning to show it's curves, all in the right place. These will be sanded as smooth as I can get it and then we cover it with filler.
Here's the latest pictures taken in my good lady's garden as that's 'Her hobby' and she wants to show the world. ( I was lucky I was allowed to walk on the lawn %) )
-
That looks very nice Ken O0 and the hull shape :-))
Regards John B
-
you are getting there ken :-))
-
Thanks guys. We've got sawdust everywhere. Today I cut the top edges in a slight curve to match the drawings.
Not much to show for all the mess, but I am encouraged to continue, now the shape is all boaty. ;)
Ken
-
Busy filling gaps and covering mistakes. ;)
The top part of the hull has been fitted with a sloping bulwark and the stern curve designed and fitted. It's off to Halfords for some more P38 car body filler and the final smooth down.
-
Hi Ken Don't forget to fair on the skeg aft with the jolly old P38 Geo
-
<:(
Here she is with £15 worth of P38 all over. Except the skeg !!!!!! (must try harder. I assume you mean the wooden bit at the rear ? )
I shall cover this tomorrow when the shops reopen, as it's all gone. Seems the tin starts to go off, if you put the put the stirring stick back into the new tin to get some more out. 8) %)
Ken
-
Ken,
The boat is progressing nicely but I think you might be in trouble over the state of the table!
Mike
-
It does seem to be getting worse. I'll give it a little sand down when I get the tools out :-)
ken
-
You have quite a bit of sanding to do there Ken :-)) I hope that table does not live in the garden OOOPS >>:-( <*< <*<.
Yes the bare wooden bit needs to be faired in to the hull with a nice curve no sharp angles. Geo O0
-
I have been prohibited from working in the garden because of the associated dangers of the dust. I'm looking for a location miles from anybody, with a power point. %)
I can see your idea of the fairing on the drawings and will do my best to smooth it in. Having a couple of days off as the grandchildren are coming to stay. :}
Ken
-
Finally got the sanding done and hull nice and smooth, so it was away to the shop for some 10 thou. plastic sheets.
These were cut to the drawings and glued on to the hull. Unfortunately, I only had 7 sheets of the stuff and I've now run out. This is a far as I've got at the moment. She's looking more like the craft now.
-
Coming on nicely Ken. :-))
-
Thank you Dicky. I pleased thus far.
It's taking rather a long time for me as I want to make the mould as best I can. I might make a few fibre glassed shells and try and re-coup some money. Do you think there's a market ?
Ken
-
Sounds like a good idea, must be nice to have plenty of time on your hands {-)
Too big for me though Ken, wouldn't be able to get the wife to lift it. %)
-
:}
I'm Gonna need a bigger car.
-
It has been pointed out to me that the plating should have started at the rear and worked forward, so it was out with the sander and start again. ;)
We started again by 'marking out' the hull with the plate positions.
-
Each plate was cut with an overlap on two sides as we worked our way along the bottom of the hull. These were then glued in with cyano which dried 'very' quick so accuracy was the thing as there was no second chance.
The next line then overlapped the plate above, showing a ridge in the correct position on it's side and bottom edges.
-
One week later and 11 sheets of 1.2mm plastic later we finally came to the end. Thanks to Marks Model Bits for the plastic sheets. (did you know he sells the stuff now ?)
There are over 120 plates of the stuff on her now and she looks the 'Biz'
-
Just need to go around the edges to smooth her out and then we are ready to make our first Fibreglass hull.
-
Today we plated the upper section to the railings.
Then we needed a strip along the top so have cut out a strip of plastic 2mm square from an old window sill and positioned it to see what it looks like. There has to be gentle curve when finished running from Bow to stern to match the lower strake.
-
That is looking very nice :-))
atb karl
-
Thank you Karl. I'm having fun getting her just right. ok2
Ken
-
Looking good, Ken. I'll be following this build with great interest.
Peter. (In our caravan on the not-so-sunny Sunshine Coast of Queensland :(( )
-
Thank you Peter. 25 days into the build of the plug and we are up to preparation for moulding. %)
I have sprayed the hull by using up three tins of nearly empty spray paint (various colours) and started sanding the surface smooth. It's quite difficult with plated plastic as the edges catch on the sand paper and either break of of bend back. The problems are going on and on.
Today I shall final coat it with black as, the fibreglass will be lighter and show up during manufacture. I have made a sturdy frame to go over the up turned hull to divide the halves and plan to 'glass' one side first. My only worry is that the plating might be pulled off when the fibre glass is dry. ;)
Here's the latest pictures.
-
Fantastic work Ken, I love the detailing. Looking forward to seeing her progress. What Scale is she ? Keep up the good work Dan.
-
Thank you Dan. She is scaled at 1:35 and is about 40 inches long, so quite a largish vessel. The holes have been marked out along the top but could not be opened up as it makes the fibre glassing difficult, if not impossible.
I rather like the present colour scheme as she looks rusty and worn. {-)
Ken
-
hi ken
well done i have my eye on this build may have to put a order in for a hull ok2
jason
-
:}
The plan is to make some in Rust colour and see how they turn out. This plug is strong enough to stand on. 8)
Ken
-
Sprayed the hull Satin black today and noticed more blemishes. %) A bit more filling and sanding methinks.
I have made the frame to go around it, as mentioned earlier and have now sprayed it to seal the wood ready for the release agent.
Here's what the set up will look like. The idea is to glass one side of the boat up on the wood surround. When it's set the wood will be removed and hopefully the hull will come away from the glass covering. Then we will be refitting the fibre glass half and moulding the other side of the hull to match.
(what can possibly go wrong %) )
-
Thats looking good.interested to see how you make the mold :-)) :-))
Regards John
-
Thanks John. I'm looking forward to mould making time as well. Still on the blemishes at the moment. Another day rubbing down with wet'n'dry. Gave her another coat of paint tonight, so see how it looks in the morning.
Ken
-
Well done ken I have been away for a couple of weeks and progress is looking good. :-))
-
Hi George, thank you for your kind comments. I now post my prelude to the sadness that follows.
In my search for perfection I was not pleased with the finish on the plates so have been trying my best to perfect the blemishes. Unfortunately I didn't know when to stop and have been trying all different ways to iron out the flaws that were spoiling the build.
Sheets of wet'n'dry sandpaper later, I went for the respray with a change of colour. It would have been red oxide as a base again but someone in the store changed the tops of the can around and I got Renault Red in the tin. %)
New blemishes appeared as pits and holes so it was out with the filler and top up the dents. These were sanded smooth and another coat of paint was laid. The costs for this boat so far were "added up" while the paint was drying and it comes to £122 so far, yes indeedy >>:-( I tried explaining to my good lady but it's falling on deaf ears.
The following day shows the results in red. As a finally to this exercise, I used up two tins of black in the hope that it would smooth out the defects --- but it got worse.
All work has now stopped as it will need re plating totally, but this time with thicker plasticard. I have been using 0.2mm and will probably go up to 0.75mm.
I can see where the costs go now when building a hull mould. I have priced up the epoxy/ gellcoat/fibreglass and it's going through the roof, so time to call a halt on the project. I will probably carve out the insides and just continue as a 'one off' scratch build (if I can find the motivation to get back on it) :((.
Let the pictures do the talking .....
-
Thats a shame Ken it was going so well {:-{.
I have hade the same thing my mould got stuck to the plug <:(.
Dont give up ,Keep the build going :-))
Kind Regards John B
-
Thanks John. I've slept on the problem and will continue with further ideas. I'm going for thicker plates and no paint spraying next time.
Onwards -------
Ken
-
Ken have you tried heating up your plates to get them to lay flat on the curves ?
-
Cheers Dicky. The new plastic will be thicker, so that's the way to go.
I have sanded it all off and placed my order for some 0.75mm. While waiting, I thought I might get on with the cabin structures.
Ken
-
Hi Ken sorry about your problems I personally don't like plasticard and always use 120gsm paper for my plating and use PVA to stick it and seal it. it is just like wallpapering :} :}
-
Well that does look tidy. What a smashing job you've made there. :-))
I've never heard of this method before. I shall remember it when mine goes wrong again. %)
Thank you
Ken
-
Well I've ground it all orf again. %)
Change of plan now as I'm going to plate her with very thin plywood, cut to shapes. The plastic route would not have stood up to covering with epoxy resin. I have the plywood and I think I know what to do by now. :} (third time lucky maybe)
The idea now is Not to make a mould but to continue making just the one vessel. I shall have to cut out all the sturdy timber inside the hull, but I'll do this when the extra layer of wood is glued outside to hold it all together.
Today I started on the cabins and have produced a frame which will be covered with plasticard. The reason it's plastic is because there are severe curves in the cabin front which could not be fabricated from wood. Here's a picture of the frame under severe load for the night while the glue is drying.
Ken
-
Hi Ken don't forget that the top and bottom of the main casing follows the sheer of the main deck and should be curved to suit.
-
Ooh er !! {:-{ Hadn't noticed that.
Thanks for reminding me. Keep em coming. :-))
Ken
-
Another interesting week in the boat yard. ok2
I've made a curved deck to go on top of the the funnel deck and made and chamfered the cabin for this deck to match.
I then set about making a funnel. What a shape this one is. It's quite large but it's also a deep oval shape. I started of with the regulation drain pipe which was heated and squashed. This did not come out very well (the black one in the picture). It was was all lumpy and out of true, and also didn't come up to the size required.
I then glued 4 pieces of wood together and when dry, I shaped it with a lot of sanding to the exact size required. It does look the part but it's very heavy so I thought I would use it as a mould. I then heated up a sheet of plastic card in a bowl of very hot water and wrapped it around the wooden mould and taped it until it was formed. (see the white funnel picture). This looked a bit better than the drainpie but it came out oversize and was also not a true curved surface and very flimsy as well.
I am in limbo at what to do so more thought required here methinks. I have a choice of fibre glassing one or drilling out the wooden version to make it lighter.
The top cabin was positioned wrong so this was hacked off and will be re glued next time.
I then got on with covering the cabin frames with shiny new plastic and she's beginning to look more like it now. The bandages come off tomorrow %).
-
Hi Ken The way that I make my funnels is to make an former ouy of balsa wood ,( the funnel on the Avenger is a definate oval no flat sides at all ) once the former is satisfactory I use 2x 1/32nd ply sheets cut to size and soak in very hot wate until it becomes soft ,then wrap both sheets around the former and either tie or tape in place until dry about 24 hours normally, then remove from the former and carefully mark the vertical centre line on the inside of one of them, then stick the edge of the second one to this centre line (just the edge at this stage,) when dry apply glue to the sides to be stuck and wrap around the former tightly and tape up tight until the glue is dry.
when dry remove the wrapping and take out the former, hey presto a perfectly formed strong light funnel all you have to do now is put a top and bottom in and fit it to the boat.
the two seams from the edges of the ply should be opposit sides. Geo
-
Brilliant. I do have the thin ply and will have a go.
A bit alarmed about the dimensions I'm following. The drawings I'm following appear to be sketched out by the designers dog. {-)
Just one question at the moment. Have I got the recess correct for the rear of the cabin to accept the funnel. ?
ken
-
Yes spot on ken. once again the drawing to follow is the real one from Cochranes NOT the other one that is only any good for placement of bits and pieces. but I think the old dog did a fairly good job considering he cant hold a pen {-) {-) {-) Geo
-
That Avenger is a real beauty, really like it. Nice to see a Gravesend tug, especially when you think how many where based there in the past.
-
Thanks old dodes here is a link to a bit of video of her under way . http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pHxa9HAfTIQ
-
Superb model of the Avenger, shame that there is not few more kits of tugs from this area considering the number of and diversity of London river tugs and craft.
-
Finally cut out the windows and doors. Just need to fit the window sills and edges to finish them off.
-
I've made the flying deck surround out of wood and glued it in place. You may notice the stairways, as these have been individually cut and glued into place.
A candidate for water ingress methinks. I shall enclose underneath with screens to guide the water out of the doors. ok2
-
That looks a lot better Ken, how's the hull getting on ?
-
Thanks Dicky. I've been putting it off long enough so it will be restarted soon.
The plan is to re sand it and thin out the stiffeners inside to make it a complete craft. I'm holding off on the pug and mould idea for the time being. I shall see how much of the thin plywood is used before cutting up the funnel shape. ;)
Ken
-
Started on the engine house top today. I have the covers in place and need to drill out the portholes.
The first version had a flat roof so that had to be done again in a curve. There are some extra boxes on the sides to be made. All I have to do is think in 3D. %)
ken
-
Today I returned to 'that hull'
Had to cut out all of the insides which is proving a bigger job than I thought. Started off with a hacksaw and then moved on to a portable fret saw and finally down to a circular sander.
Well what a mess I've made of the workshop. The sawdust was so bad that I moved out into the garden, much to the displeasure of my good lady. I had ear defenders and breathing mask and have only done half of it so far. I then made a start on cleaning the hull of bits of plastic so that I can plate it with wood this time.
I was covered in sawdust and had to change clothing before being allowed back into the house. What fun %) (sorry no pictures !!)
-
Bloomin eck Ken, death watch beetle or wood worm ? {:-{ {:-{
-
Shark attack O0
ken
-
Have you thought about plating with paper and PVA like Tugmad Ken, might be easier. :-))
-
I have used brown gummed tape stuck on with pva on my Puffer. Rivets made with a ponce wheel commonly known as a dress makers wheel and sealed with several coats of varnish, then painted.
Joe :-)) :-)) :-))
-
I have already bought the ply Dicky, so I'll see how it is to work around the curves. There won't be any more chances, as 'Er indoors' is getting ruffled. She has promised me a complete kit in a box next time as it saves on messy jobs.
Luckily there are no rivets, Boat Captain, so that simplifies things a bit. The hull is still quite rigid so I have a bit of tolerance on smoothing out the Shark bites. :D
Ken
-
I've been quiet on the building reports lately because it's been going so bad. My Wife suggested filling it with earth and displaying it in the garden as a feature. {:-{
Ever hopeful and looking towards the future, I have plodded on with the recovery by severe sanding and shaping of the hull innards. (it wasn't meant to be sailed, only acting as a sturdy mould !!)
Disaster >:-o
The bulwarks, which were made of plastic have dissolved with the heat of the sanding disk and fell apart in pieces. I now do not have anything above the deck line.
Not to be put off I shall make some new ones from plywood and fit the deck first (never been done before) and then glue the new bulwarks to the top of the deck. That way I shall have a good surface on both sides.
Picture 1 shows the extra supports glued inside at deck level for good adhesion to the deck when fitted.
Picture 2 shows the smoothed out interior and nice deck line edging
As you will notice, I have fitted the Prop shaft and padded it down with epoxy. I also drilled out the rudder post hole in readiness.
-
I have under coated the cabins and picture 1 shows them placed on the frame for effect. I then made the curved supports for the deck and lined them up. Pictures 2 and 3
-
I have roughly cut out the decking from plywood a bit oversize and laid it on for the general effect. It should be fun bending it to fit whilst glueing it down. A set of giant clamps spring to mind. Yes I know it's a bit short but hey, this ship is problems at every turn of clock. Keeps me alive. %)
The cabin has gone up another floor with the water system above now measured out and dry fitted. We're on our way up ok2
-
You don't think it's this blokes fault, do you. {-) {-)
-
Had a very busy time in the last 6 days. We have fitted the rudder into a lovely 'bushed' tube and made the blade from two pieces of plywood. These were clamped around the down bar which was bent into a circle inside. The insides were epoxied and the whole assembly was clamped overnight
A lower support bar was then fitted and the shaft was lined up and epoxied into place.
-
Our thoughts then moved to the servo control of the rudder.
A board was made to fit under the rear hatch to accommodate the servo and fitted centre of the boat. To this was added some switches and an LED to indicate live battery. One switch is to be for general on/off whilst the other is to switch on static things like lights to show when the boat is on the stand.
-
The next job was to fit the brand new 900 motor from MMB.
This was clamped to its holder and rubber washers were inserted into the base. A temporary metal tube was fitted to the prop and joined to the motor to line it up squarely when being fitted.
This was then removed and a flexible coupling was inserted and the motor was secured to the base. We then connected up to a 6 volt battery (so that it didn't run too fast under test) and checked for noises and wobbles but everything sounded all right.
As a P.S it runs fastest ant-clockwise, so what handed propeller do I need for forward motion please.
-
Before we finally secure down the deck we fitted the largest component next. The battery box was cut and glued in place.
-
Finally, for this week, we started fitting the sides to the openings in the deck for the cabins to fit above.
These have only been glued into position and will be trimmed down to fit the cabins and look tidier.
I haven't plated the hull yet as I don't want to damage the surface with all these works going on. ;)
-
You,ll need a Left Hander Ken
Bosun
-
Thats come on well Ken :-))
-
You,ll need a Left Hander Ken
Bosun
Thanks Terry. I'm not very nautical. :-))
Ken
-
Thats come on well Ken :-))
Thank you Dicky. It's been lonely but I flogged onwards and upwards. ;)
Had to do something to stop the 'Mrs' using it as a plant potter.
Ken
-
Ken mentions...... "it runs fastest ant-clockwise, so what handed propeller do I need for forward motion please"
mmmm...down south of the border {-) we would look on the output shaft of the motor or %%....yes even on the prop shaft from the same perspective
So if the rotation appears to be anticlockwise O0 ...you need an anticlockwise handed prop to go FWD, but you would still need an anticlockwise handed prop to go ASTERN :-))
In OZ we call these left handed [I think] ........... :D Derek
-
Thanks Derek.
Is this the one ? I shall go Brass and up a blade to four, to get the power on the pull. 8)
ken
-
Hello Ken, please excuse me for jumping in, but as a newcomer I would like to gain a little more knowledge re motor and prop rotation and hope by chipping in on your thread now, rather than start a new topic, someone may offer advice / knowledge that would be of mutual benefit. (I hope you don't mind - would hate to offend)
I asked a similar question to that of yours a short while ago and was told that most motors, if not all, run more efficiently one way ( anti-clockwise ) and only about 80% efficiently the other ( clockwise ). The obvious question followed and (depending on how you view the motor) what was classed as clockwise / anti-clockwise and was informed that in Britain, the prop rotation is viewed looking AT the stern of the boat hence when facing the spindle at the front of the motor it turns anti-clockwise the most efficient direction, and therefore a left handed prop (as you have pictured in your post) would be the correct one to use for forward propulsion, and a right handed one would be needed if the motor was reversed. Apparently the opposite is the case in other parts of Europe (so I was informed) whereby rotation is viewed looking FROM the stern. I found this out at a recent show where I nearly bought the wrong prop as they were made abroad and identified as l/hand but were actually r/hand.
Anyway, "what do I know" as Martin would say but I hope it prompts some definitive info.
have enjoyed following your builds Ken, keep up the good work :-))
regards, Tony.
-
Hullo Ken & Tony.....yes by convention we view [looking on the output shaft] of electric motors, air motors or hydraulic motors
If the shaft rotates anti-clockwise we term this a left hand ....& naturally if the shaft rotates clockwise we term this as right handed
I would suggest that not all electric motors are wound for optimal anticlockwise rotation.........many special motors...eg a windscreen wiper motor and the automotive dash heater fan motor are designed [windings wound] so that a specific direction is attained
Certainly the latter automotive dash heater fan motor employ a single ball to act as a thrust ball element to cushion the enduced EMF
Naturally Ken.....the prop you have shown is designed to rotate anti-clockwise ..............for FWD motion...... :-)) Derek
-
Very informative Derek. Thank you for that. I shall be ordering the prop with the blades bent as shown.
With regard to best rotation Tony, ( chip in any time :-)) ) I've found that by connecting a battery at half the recommended voltage, it is possible to tell which way around with the plus and minus gives the fastest speed.
As an extra tip, I did find that the positive terminal was colour coded red (motor from MMB) and this produced the faster speed anyway. 8)
Today I only had time to glue the fore deck down and clamp it before I was whisked away on grandchild looking after duties. A nice break with clean clothes on today. (at least when I went in) :}
Ken
-
Thanks for the tip Ken. :-))
Being a proud grandpa also, I'm always happy to feed our youngest when I can, after experience of 3 previous I'd of thought by now I could tell the difference between a lovely warm smile ---------- and wind - always end up changing my shirt! {:-{ {-)
Keep the pics coming, kind regards, Tony.
-
Finally got the deck secured down today. O0
Doesn't it look unusual without the bulwarks ? Now I have a good surface to attach them to.
-
Next job was to line up the cabin base with the deck curvature. This involve a bit of work to ensure it rested along the new deck which was curved in two directions. %)
-
Next we built the ladder assembly to the upper platform where the water hoses will be situated.
This started out as a piece of 2X1 timber. We routed out a groove of 25mm wide and made 14 steps from plastic and glued them in, using a jig to get them all square.
The back section was sanded round to form the complete shape and placed on for the picture. We have still to cut the opening in the platform to line it up correctly. The Fire hoses are on order at great expense !!
The funnel is the master jig and is there for decoration only. :}
-
I then got on with the funnel construction. I decided not to do it in 0.7mm plywood as I need the sheet for planking later, so I reverted to plastic sheet.
This was wrapped around the block and glued together then dumped into a bath of hot water. Unfortunately the wood swelled as well and I couldn't remove the plastic from the mould. I had to resort to cutting it off, which made a mess and was scrapped. Hey Ho.!!
I started again with a new sheet but this time. I made biscuit shapes of the funnel and glued this inside the curved plastic and wrapped the whole lot in loads of rubber bands.
-
When it was dry I set about fitting the Bands around the funnel. After a bit of light sanding the funnel was sprayed with red oxide.
-
You may have noticed the new coat of Brown on the upper cabin. Lovely paint this. I shall be doing the other cabins this colour. I have left the top section as real wood as it sets it off nicely.
-
As I was getting fed up with propping up the hull with bricks, I decided to get on with the stand. Here it is all glued up and drying for the night.
-
It's looking good, Ken, I'm glad you didn't throw in the towel...not that I thought you would :-)
Peter.
-
Thank you Peter. (You and me both O0 ) I don't mind admitting it's a challenge.
Looking forward to getting the bulwarks on and turn her into a proper ship. The stand is all dry and fits, so I have a good base on which to work now.
Cheers
Ken
-
Well that's the Coal house built and out of the way, so it's back to boating.
Today we made the bulwarks and shaped them to the deck. Nails were then placed the thickness of the 3 ply inside the outer edge and the wood glued and clamped into position up against the nails. Tape was then applied to force it tight down onto the deck and also to apply an angle inwards for the bulwarks.
What a strange way of doing things !! I don't recommend it.
The stern piece was cut in a curve to sloped inwards and around the stern section where it promptly snapped in half. Another piece was measured and cut to shape and dunked into a bowl of water to soften it. There it will stay until tomorrow with a weight on it to keep it submerged. %)
Here's what it look like at the moment.
-
It is coming along well Ken :-)) Geo
-
Thanks George. I am really pleased with her now. The Stanchions have arrived along with some sundries and expensive fire hydrants. :}
Ken
-
hi kenny build looks good, i see you srcatch build like me ,but watch your fingers between them bricks {-)
off to blackpool friday ,should get some bit s to finish charlot wich two thirds finished will post pics soon .......cheers larry :-))
-
Thank Larry. Here's the other build project
-
The clamps came off today and it's still holding fast :-)) That P.V.A. glue works a treat on plywood.
I removed the soaking wet 'plywood' from the bath and bent it into shape around the stern. I left it clamped for a few hour to let it dry a bit and then fitted it with some P.V.A and re clamped it in place.
The rope locker was then constructed and glued and left for the night. (lot of waiting for glue to dry, which suited me as the sun was out)
-
see you are still going round the bendthen/ %% .charlot gave me the same problem ,
(http://s2.postimage.org/lm2X9.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/17cntseec/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/lnrf9.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/17e9pljok/)
also a few pics . what you think/
cheers larry :-))
-
Well you've got a few bends there Larry. She looks nice. :-)) Is it a single prop ? What size is it ?
I've gone for 70mm 4 blade as I shall need slow power.
ken
-
Here's the other build project
I know some yachts are built from concrete, but that one will never float,Ken {-)
Peter.
-
hi ken no motor or prop fited yet stuck on what to use , there not lot room in hull
i see what blackpool willcome up with put a post on the forum........
she is 24in long 6in wide 6in draft, any help..........larry
-
I know some yachts are built from concrete, but that one will never float,Ken {-)
Peter.
Hi Peter.
Even worse today. The clamps came of and it's stuck like Wow. I've laid out all the extras to get a better picture. She is quite hollow inside and the weight has come off her a treat. Mind you, I might need a Jet engine to get her up on the plane. :}
ken
-
hi ken no motor or prop fited yet stuck on what to use , there not lot room in hull
i see what blackpool willcome up with put a post on the forum........
she is 24in long 6in wide 6in draft, any help..........larry
Hi Larry,
May I recommend 3mm prop shaft with a 50 or 60mm 4 blade brass prop (depends on room under stern of course)
A 545 motor (many coils) would be ample for tug use and drive her powerfully. You would only need a 15 amp speed controller.
Hope this helps
Ken
-
Forgot to show you the ladder I made. ok2
-
I was actually referring to the "other build project" Ken, not Hibernia. I'm sure Hibernia will float...eventually O0
Peter.
-
Oh!! :}
The way I'm switching between projects I was getting cement dust on the boat. %) so we were both right in a way. Today I was called in for Grandchild duties so had a rest from glueing.
Tomorrow I thought I might spray the hull with red oxide as she's looking a bit patchy and looking sorry for herself. :embarrassed:
Cheers
Ken
-
Hi Ken here is a painting done by my Cousin Ian of the Hibernia and Avenger you might like, I Know it is a bit of a way off yet, but look at the mizen mast on both of them and you will see that they are Vertical to the water line and not raked at all, we all thought it always looked a bit odd but that was how they were. Geo.
-
That's great George. Thank you. I managed to get some air vents just like those behind the funnel. Amazing just how many details I've missed as every time I look there are more. Take for example the hand rails above the deck level containers against the cabin. I have not left enough room to fit them so will have to shorten the cabinets to make room above.
One feature that will come up soon is the water feed to the fire hoses. I'm assuming it will come up one of the legs to the platform. I have the route from upper deck level all ready planned out so it seems the best feed.
Thanks for your help so far.
Ken
-
Hi Ken The water pipes were routed up the front of the main ladder to the fire platform, that is how I have done mine, and I fitted a Graupner water pump which feeds all four monitors really well
-
Hi Ken here is another of my cousins paintings for you.
-
Hi Ken The water pipes were routed up the front of the main ladder to the fire platform, that is how I have done mine, and I fitted a Graupner water pump which feeds all four monitors really well
Hi George,
Couldn't see any piping around this area. I assume you mean on the underside, rather than close to the handrails. I plan on two pipes per pair of hoses so it could look a bulky installation. Is this how it's done on the real ship ? I had planned on supplying the water up through the support 'tubes' where it would not be noticed, but I'm all for authenticity. Have you got a picture ?
ken
-
Hi Ken the ladder that you have made to the fire platform has a curved front to it and the waterpipes went up the inside of the curved bit out of sight if you study the plan you can see what I mean A T B Geo
-
Ah .... That's the answer then. Will have a little rout tomorrow.
Thanks
Ken
-
I've routed out a groove under the steps to sink the pipe into. I decided not to go for twin water pumps and plumbing but to have one supply going upwards and branching to all four pumps.
My next problem is to fit T pieces and elbow joints to the copper tube and I do not know a supplier. Can anyone help please. :(( I have flexible tube for going around corners but as you can see from the platform base, it will have to fit under a false floor going on above.
-
I have sprayed the cabins with my 'Halford's' brown but don't like the shade. I shall be looking around for a lighter colour. The hull is coated with red oxide and hopefully will attract the PVA glue when I fit the plating.
I stuck a little lifeboat on as it had vibrant colours. (all show .. me!)
-
The hole in the bows is a cut out for the anchor section and it's undecided how to go about the fittings, so I've left it while I have a think. :embarrassed:
Meanwhile I've been straightening up the funnel. This proved more difficult as I had to glue a thicker base on so that I could grind it more upright. It came out well so I've sprayed this a lovely two coats of red oxide. (I do like this paint, as I may have said before !!)
( going so fast with the typing, my spelling is suffering) :embarrassed:
-
Hi Ken the nearest brown for the Hibernia is Humbrol Tan No 9. the funnel looks a lot better well done, I went to an aquarium shop to get the bends and elbows for my piping and fitted a manifold under the platform to hide the pipes. geo
-
Great information George, I'll look around.
Time to start plating so I'll be quiet for a while (week maybe !!) O0 O0
Ken
-
Started on the planking 8) Couldn't contain myself. It's going well at the moment and gently creeping along the hull.
I'm using 0.7mm plywood at £10 per sheet and glueing it with PVA (plenty of it) and doing one row a day to let it set nice and hard. One thing is becoming apparent and that is that it's quite lumpy. I shall continue and when finished I shall smooth and fill as necessary. Lets hope this is the last time I attempt plating. %)
Cheers.
-
In between all this I have found a new brown aerosol paint which is lighter in shade and resprayed the cabins and rear hatches. In my spare time I've made a roof for the new coal house as the coal has been delivered and the rains have come back. %%
The funnel has been completed and now looks the 'Biz' so I can relax in the warm house and think about more plating !!!!
Ken
-
Finally finished the plating. :} It took three sheets of plywood at £12 but we got there in the end. Since the picture was taken I've smoothed down the top edges and gone over it with a light sand papering. Tomorrow we paint. ok2
I've placed a few of the completed parts on deck to get another flavour and now beginning to feel pleased with her. This model build seems to have been going on for a while and although scratch built, has cost a relative fortune so far. I don't like the brown colour so it looks as if I might have to blend my own again. I've rubbed down the blemishes with wet'n'dry all ready to go again.
-
well done Ken keep going the Brown you want is Bulrush you can get it made up at B & Q it is exactly the same as Watkins Brown :-))
-
Thanks George. I must admit I've not heard of this colour of brown although it sounds logical. I'll look into it. :-))
Ken
-
We are now on week 13 of the build and finally finished the hull planking. :-)) What a nightmare. The costs have reached over £200 so far but it shouldn't cost more than another hundred to finish. (try explaining that to the wife !!)
I have fitted the side rails and the top handrail and sprayed it with red oxide. This should show up any blemishes which corrected before we spray the top coat black. The upper parts are just laid on at the moment as I find it encourages me to continue. ;)
Ken
ps Just looked at the Skid bars . Might need thinning down a bit methinks. :embarrassed:
-
Hi Ken yes the rubbing strakes are a bit on the heavy side and you seem to have forgotten the anchor stowage wells either side of the bow,
A T B geo
-
The anchor wells are underneath the plating from previous workings. All I have to do is break through the new plates when I start cutting the hull about for wash ports etc.
I will be thinking of plating the decks soon, then I can get the bulwark supports fitted.
Ken
-
Sorry Ken I am poking the old hooter in again. ;) :embarrassed:
-
No, certainly not. It's nice to have help.
I've copied off your picture as your anchor wells are slightly different to the drawings. The recess tapers back deeper at the top (as if the chain comes down through this section) and I was having difficulty fabricating this shape so gave up until I had the plating section done.
Now is the time to think about it again. I might make an insert shape to go in complete in one go. Also mine is not going to line up with the plating run. :embarrassed: so will not be an exact copy. Must get on as I've the Titanic to build yet. :}
Ken
-
Nice job on the tug Ken, as for the Titanic your in luck there, I've got every book written about her, plus line drawings, pictures galore, so give me a shout if you need any info. :-))
-
Hello Ken These pictures were taken at the lake this morning and they are of the Big sisters Avenger and Hibernia, they show my Avenger and a hibernia belonging to another club member the hibernia has just been re painted by my brother peter.
-
Hello Ken These pictures were taken at the lake this morning
Just one word ....... Beautiful :-)) :-)) That's the colour I'm looking for.
When it stops raining, I shall 'go a hunting' Will she ever look like those. I now have something to aim for.
Today I thinned down the strakes and started cutting the holes in the scuppers (all very nautical stuff !!) but it's a bit cold out there so it's time for a break.
Thank you very much
Ken
-
as for the Titanic your in luck there, I've got every book written about her, plus line drawings, pictures galore, so give me a shout if you need any info. :-))
Hi Phil,
Nice to hear from. You are THE man. I appreciate this indeed and would like to take you up on your offer.
I will PM you almost immediately and look forward to seeing you again at the Warwick show. I'm coming up with Mark and family for our usual throw money in the lake exercise.
:} :} :}
Ken
-
I've finally found the right colour. The shade of 'Bulrush' was mixed for me at the superstore and I must say, it looks correct.
Here's the first coat which came out all right but needs a light rub down. I have a litre can so plenty to use up. %)
The funnel now has it's top coat on and looks smart.
-
I have under coated the hull first with red oxide and then grey paint. The lower Red section was then sprayed on to above the water line and this is how it looks at the moment.
-
The anchor well have been made and inserted into the gaps. Here is a view from below the water line. I've even painted the stand and underneath the fire hose deck along with some red hose piping.
Got a handful of coffee sticks from MacDonalds to make some steps and stairs with !! so that should be fun.
-
Next we taped a guide line where red meets black and sprayed her with matt black.
-
That's the hull finished !!! 104 days %) must be a record for longevity here somewhere..
I then got on with plating the deck. I used 1mm plastic card which was cut into strips and fitted like a chess board. Super glue works a treat on plywood.
The resultant cross hatches were filled with P38 car body filler and smoothed off to fill the gaps.
-
I then sprayed on the favourite Red Oxide undercoat and had a cup of tea and a cake. It was dry in under half hour so I used the Tamiya green paint with a wide paint brush and this is the result.
I placed the cabin on to get a colour match and it looks acceptable so I'll leave it this colour. The bulwarks have to be made and fitted so the inside wall will have to be painted again as there is over spray from the red oxide.
-
Started work on the upper splash windows and rubbed down the brown as it wasn't very smooth. The cabin has been painted again is now drying on the shelf.
I then painted the white line and started on the bow bollard.
-
Next we got on with painting the inside edge of the bulwarks in Matt black. The bulwark supports will be fitted when dry as it's awkward to get a nice paint job when they are in place.
Then we 'knocked up' two ladders from coffee sticks (courtesy of my trip back from Warwick on the motorway ok2)
-
I've cut up some CD cases and made the glass for the upper splash windows and also welded the fire platform struts together.
The anchor winch is made and sprayed and now fitted to the bow along with the tow post in the fore deck.
-
The funnel has been repainted (YET AGAIN) to a more subtle colour to match the upper works and the ladders have been fitted. I've also lightened the inside edge of the bulwarks as they looked a little dark in the black colour.
I've also made new ladders for the funnel deck to go down inside the boat as the previous ones didn't have sides on them ! The water would have cascaded inside the boat during sailing and we don't want that, do we. %)
-
As some parts are sub made and painted, these are now secured on the boat and we're getting there at last. Since the last picture I've painted the bras tube frame to match and its on the drying mat. :}
The lifeboat davits could prove a bit of fun to make. ok2 Not to ones self. Don't put 1:48 scale people on on a 1:32 scale boat. !!
-
Thats looking much better Ken :-)) :-))
-
Thank you George. I also raised the water line a smidgen as it seemed a little low.
Going by the weight these days that is probably not enough. :}
Ken
-
Hi Ken My avenger weighs in at 47lbs ready to sail, but I have made all the ballast removeable along with the batteries so she is easy to carry about, yours is probably going to be a similat weight. geo :o :o
-
Just stuck it on the bathroom scales and it's about 23 pounds at the moment. Seems well within your range, hopefully when it's loaded, should be allright. ;)
Working on the mast spars at the moment. I've made a double bracket to hold them in place. Now ordering the portholes and tiddley bits to finish her off.
Ken
-
The railings were cut down from 4 rail to 3 rail and have been sprayed white. I find it looks smoother than brush painting in situ. I've also started on the lifeboat davits.
The towing mechanism was removed and rebuilt to accommodate the hook. This was sprayed with undercoat and top coat black.
I have made the wash ports protection strips and secured them to the hull. These will be the same colour as the topping, so some protection will have to be in place before spraying commences. ;)
-
It's coming along nicely :-)) With a little more practice you could turn into quite a good modeller, Ken %) O0 {-) {-) {-)
Peter.
-
Hi Peter.
Have you started that lifeboat yet ? I hear it's your summer over there :-) unlike here where it's 5 degrees in my garage. Thought I'd start the gas fire but it's run out of gas :(( so I went out and bought another bottle. (over £30 these days !)
Those protection strips in the picture above look quite wide to me. I guess I'll have to make them narrower before I paint them. %)
Ken
-
Have you started that lifeboat yet ? I hear it's your summer over there unlike here where it's 5 degrees in my garage.
I haven't started the lifeboat yet, Ken, as we've been away in our caravan quite a lot, plus I'm building a pusher tug for my grandsons in Sydney. However, it should be next on the slipway.
It's officially summer here now, but we have been having a lot of wet weather, and the temperatures have been fairly moderate, so far. The snowy weather in Britain has been featured on Australian TV news, and I watched a live football match between Man U and West Ham from Upton Park, East London, where it was snowing heavily.
Peter.
-
When I went in to the workshop today it was 1 degree C and even after one hour with the new fire it only rose to 5 C , so I gave up and came indoors. :((
We are watching "I'm a celebrity" on TV about some people in Australia getting wet in the rain. ok2 so sympathies there.
Ken
-
Been busy in the last 10 days so here is an update.
The stanchions are fitted and threaded up with wire and just need a dab of white on the railings. I've replaced the strips in front of the wash ports and painted them black.
The lifebelts have been made and fitted and the smaller items fitted to the bridge. The picture shows the upper platform nearly finished and only placed into position as the cabin lights have yet to be wired in. When this is completed I will be able to secure the cabins in place.
-
A bit more work was done on the rear casings as they looked a little plain.
-
Finally for now here is an overall picture of the 'OL girl'
-
Excellent Ken, really well done. Your perseverance repaid in full I'd say - thanks for such an honest and interesting build log, always better to see and learn from the 'warts an' all' especially with a happy ending. :-))
Kind regards, Tony.
-
Hello Ken she is starting to look the part now old mate well done Geo. ;) ;)
-
Thank you Tony. Yes, quite a struggle with all them little problems along the way. Mind you, I don't know yet whether she will float yet. %)
Still a bit to do but we're over the hump and sliding nicely.
Cheers George. I do like the colours. Next job, the fire hose supply. Must be careful not to squirt people on the lake side with contaminated water. I have the water intake tube but not sure where to drill the hull ?? The only part with free access is the stern area near the prop tube, but this would put the hose pipe in close proximity to the motor and the coupler ! How did you do yours?
Ken
-
nice one Kenny , now build a ice breaker {-) john king still on going,....... happy Christmas..... Larry. :-))
-
HI ken I drilled the hull just under the foredeck area and mounted the pump where the forward soloon would be on the main deck Geo.
-
Thanks George. I've got a floor there so I could drill an access point. Would be a shorter run of hose.
Cheers :-))
ken
-
I've drilled the hull (oh er!!) and fitted the water inlet tube. It's all epoxied in, so shouldn't leak.
Then we got on with fitting the trimmings (the best part). These included making and painting the tow rope support bars and fitting the handrail all around the cabin sides. Now miscalculated the number and run out of hand rail stanchions. The anchors have been painted and will be fitted soon.
Here's a few pictures of the position to date
-
Assembled what we have so far and took a few more pictures
-
Hey, that's a moody shot above. %) Here's some more.
-
I have made a quick video and posted it on You Tube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IYqhZowU1a8
Still lots of finishing work to do, but here it is at the present
Ken
-
I have made a quick video and posted it on You Tube.
Excellent, Ken, she looks great :-))
Peter.
-
Thank you Peter. Having a break today. Seems it's time to purchase things for the family. %)
Happy Christmas
Ken
-
Well done Ken you should be well pleased with the final result Geo.
-
Thank you George. yes, I'm well pleased. :-))
Thank you for all your advice. We got there in the end. Next movie will be on the water quickly before it sinks. {-)
Cheers
ken
-
Seems it's time to purchase things for the family. %)
Happy Christmas
Ken
No need to rush, Ken, there's still 7 shopping days left {-)
A Happy Christmas to you, too.
Peter.
-
Nearly a month gone and No work done due to the weather. I have finally got the doors open and the gas fire going so it's back to the 'ol' workshop. O0
I have made the davits and sprayed them white. As I'm using a shop bought lifeboat, I have sanded it down and sprayed it. Unfortunately I didn't sand it enough and I had a chemical clash (see picture)
-
Not to be deterred, I re sanded the little boat and after several coats it's finally done.
Next it was time to put the ladder steps into the rear mast. For this, I drilled tiny holes and succeeded in drilling through the mast wiring, so a new mast has been built. This has been painted and fitted to the boat. I then got on with fitting the internal lighting and connecting it all up.
-
Mistake # 104
Just noticed the length of the rear mast. When I made it, it was 3 inches or so longer to allow for holding whilst sanding the taper. I was then distracted from cutting it to length before glueing it in place. ooh er. Going to be a trial removing it. {:-{
Ken
-
Glad to see I am not the only one who does this sort of thing Ken.
Looking good though Ken. :-))
-
Hiya Dicky,
That's why I'm sitting here ---- ruminating. Queer ol hobby this. I step forward 2 steps backwards. :D That mast is super glued in with wires coming out the base so no hammer and chisel methinks. I'll let you know how I get on. :embarrassed:
How are you ? I hope you're keeping warm and cosy and planning your next model. We might come down this summer as we've missed a year (where did the time go?)
Cheers
ken
ps sorry about the hairs on the railings. Not good at close ups.
-
Hi Ken, still stuck in this chair on oxygen 24/7, cant do a thing at the moment, completely breathless.
Have all the makings of my Armidale in my work room but have been told it could be weeks before I am anywhere near where I was before the pneumonia.
Will have to be right if you are going to come down this summer, will find you a bigger boat this time [if you promise not to sink it] {-)
-
nice model ken , so whats next ?.. larry. :-))
-
Thanks Larry. Not quite finished yet as these errors start creeping in. :}
The next model will be a scratch version of the Titanic. Have to show Dicky something that really sinks. I have the plastic version for guidance and my book collection now totals 9 on this subject (so far). Don't know where I'm going to get the spare time as 18 keyboards have arrived from Yamaha for repair. (need the money to keep afloat 8) )
-
hi Kenny, don't forget capt smith famous saying , was " where did all this f********g ice come from" {-) %% Larry
-
:} :} Very good Captain. Was that 'Port' or 'starboard' you said ??
Well the mast came out easy today. I drilled up through the base to weaken the structure and it twisted out. New shortened mast fitted and the funnel was secured in at last.
I've bought a new R/X and now find I need crystals. Will the expense never end. :(( I'm over £400 so far and her indoors is not pleased.
Ken
-
hi KEN, i no where you are up against , my other half gives me grief i am working on budget of £20 amonth so i have to scrim and scrounge what i can ,
pension don't go far :(( but a bunch of flowers smooth things over till the next time O0...... LARRY..
-
On with the topping out. :} The portholes have arrived.
New shortened mast fitted and now needs a coat of touch up paint. We then got on with some rigging and fitting the lifeboat and touching up more paint to cover scratches around the cabins.
Nice early finish as we have to wait for paint to dry. ;)
-
She has been sitting quietly on the shelf for two years now.
I think it's time to dust her off, fit some electrics and try her on the water. %)
The plan is to now sell her as room is getting tight in the workshop and there are other craft awaiting in their boxes.
Watch this space
Ken
-
More work has been done and I thought I'd bring you all up to date.
I have wired up the electrics and now have more lamps than you can shake a stick at. We have navigation lights along with cabin lights.
Ken
-
It was then onto the hydrants. i have fitted a water pump and connected up the four pumps.
As you can see there is plenty of water being delivered. Unfortunately the pumps have large holes in the ends and the water does not shoot out far enough. I am in the process of making finer tips to the guns which should improve things a bit.
-
I had to get the pool out and blown up and filled before I could test the water system.
This also gave me a chance to test the integrity of the hull and the balance of the boat at sea.
-
She looks good Ken :-)) lots of lights O0
-
Thanks Geo,
I'm just pleased she floats. !!!! te he.
Just one question please. Did the Hibernia have the lifeboat on the port side whilst I copied the Avenger drawings and put it on the starboard. if so, then the stb. side had a dingy with a small crane to launch it. i don't know if it's worth all the effort now she's painted. ?
Cheers
ken
-
a mighty fine looking model there ken...........looks to sit in the water well.
neil.
-
Thanks Neil,
I am present looking for the pulley rigging blocks. Cornwall models have run out. Anyone know where a supplier might be please.
ken
-
Try RB models in Poland, they make some of the best ones I have seen. Very nice model Ken, enjoy her maiden voyage, Mick B.
-
Ken....for whatever reason <*< >>:-( I cannot get the copy & paste to work.....however the following...........Derek
-
Those parts you are showing Derek are all made in Poland by RB Models. They are sold by several well known companies in the U/K including but not exclusively, Cornwall, Deans, & Westbourne to name just three.Mick B.
-
I was looking at these on the sites. A bit pricey, as all I want is a wheel and a hook to run the ropes around. :}
Cheers
ken
-
I have now put the build Movie onto YouTube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=APAjYwtJSJ0
Cheers
Ken
-
Hi I have just ordered the kit for the avenger and had a look at your posting the boat looks very nice
One question please where did you get the lights from as I would like to fit them on the avenger
Any advice would be most welcome
Happy sailing
Bill
-
Hi Billthetug,
I tend to use LED's as they draw very little current.
These can obtained from Ebay at a reasonable price so you can wire loads into the boat. I would use the 3mm ones and wire them to their resistors before fitting them in. When you come to the mast then score a line down the back to contain the wires and fit the Leds to the ends. Pull the wires and leds in tight to the mast BEFORE you think of filling in the channel with filler. If you leave the wires hanging out, intending to solder the leds on later then you are in serious trouble. Ask me how I know ???? %)
Best of luck and don't forget some pictures as you go along.
Cheers
Ken
-
Hi Ken thanks for the advice kit arriving in 10 days so will let you know how I get on
Cheers Bill
-
I've really enjoyed reading this build log - you're a man of infinite patience, well done! :-)