Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Submarines => Topic started by: submate on August 18, 2010, 09:26:20 pm
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I was going to use Norbert Bruggen's kit but due to the kind offer of a mate in Hinckley MBC I will be using his WTC when completed.
This thread will be a 'warts and all' description of my trials and tribulations during this build.
I know this has been done before but it be a record for me and any other novice.
The slots in the hull were done by a dremel with a metal grinder end.
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Good man Andy, a nice and neat set of flood holes...they drive you mad, don't they? You wait until you start on the deck... O0
Rich
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Good man Andy, a nice and neat set of flood holes...they drive you mad, don't they? You wait until you start on the deck... O0
Rich
I am looking forward to it now I have had soon practice. {:-{
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HI.Good job.I wheel bee watching Y.I am the first steps also so I am very interested . :-))
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Good man Andy, a nice and neat set of flood holes...they drive you mad, don't they? You wait until you start on the deck... O0
Rich
You could buy the laser cut ply deck and give it a few thinned coats or resin to seal it in. Very neat crisp finish and all the holes are already cut.
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You could buy the laser cut ply deck and give it a few thinned coats or resin to seal it in. Very neat crisp finish and all the holes are already cut.
Where from and how much?
thanks for the info Bunkerbarge. :-)
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Check it out here:
http://store.spruebrothers.com/172-nautilus-models-wood-deck-for-revell-type-vii-u-boat-72501-p4799.aspx
I got mine from White Ensign Models but I am finding getting around thier site a bit difficult at the moment. You could give them a ring and ask.
This is what I did with one of them to give you an idea of the possibilities:
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=2227.0
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:-)) Thanks Bunkerbarge, I have just been looking at your build thread, the paint work looks great. I will hope to get mine to the same standard but my painting skills are limited.
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Just an update, the WTC has been done. I will have to use a smaller battery (6V?) so it will fit and the control lines still through
still have to be catered for. Pics below. I am starting to mod the rear planes and rudder assemblies, wish me luck. :-)
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Lookin' good there Andy, keep it up mate!
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Sorting out the rudders using Norbert's method, had to make the control arms from gash plastic and using a spare servo head.
I hope you can see in the photo as it is slightly out of focus.
The rudders fixed to brazing rods, having drilled them out accordingly.
;)
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A rear end view, Mike has put another open bulkhead at the opening for the WTC.
Apologies for the earthing tape.
:-)
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Some more pics showing the WTC build and where the hull is divided and the models bulkheads enlarged to accommodate the WTC.
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Apologies for the pics above, but I scanned them from prints.
I have decided that I am not doing the intrickate work on the decks because my hand eye dexterity is not good enough and I know I would ruin the sub.
I have cut out the unseen parts of the decking and conning tower to resolve it. Later I will drill subtle holes in discrete places. O0
Just for your interest, some pics of Mikes Typhoon.
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Hurry up Andy...the Dragonfish has got her bum wet already!!
Rich
(http://s3.postimage.org/hMK4J.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=PqhMK4J)
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Sorry Rich, but I have to multi task, it will take some time. :}
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I forgot that the sub had contra rotating props, so Mike had to put in some gearing for it.
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I have recently visited Model Power, just down the road, and decided that the battery pack will be split into 2 with 3 cells in each part giving 7.2 volts to play with.
I was due to space constaint going to use a ESC for my pump but now I will use a mini servo and 2 miniature micro switches and save £20.
Progress on the sub will continue after I get back from holiday in a weeks time.
:-)
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Mike has now got my gearing for the drives sorted, a couple of a cogs broke free from each other on the idler gear and had to
be sleaved to make good.
I have started to connect up the control sufaces.
Pictures will follow.
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Got a mini water pump from MFA como £11, fits nicely.
When wiring up the 2 mini micro switches, (RS Comps no 616 0344) which will activated by a servo, I used the wrong method of fixing them
(super glue, prat) one u/s switch, back to the drawing board, lesson learned.
I was going to use a ESC to control the pump but the above is cheaper :o
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Hi nice boat I completed mine a year ago using Dave Welch configurations and it goes well . I did find you need to make the the rudder base stays from brass as the plastic ones are to flimsy. I also added an oiling tube to each prop shaft tube and left the forward torpedo tubes open . The flood holes were done from the back with a dremel at low speed and care as you.
Hope all goes well in the water the final test of your hard work !!
regards
Ian
(http://s2.postimage.org/1x96qtcmc/VC11_mod_001.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1x96qtcmc/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/1x9s8sv1g/v11c.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1x9s8sv1g/)
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HAPPY NEW YEAR to You All My Friends!.
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Hi all.
I have just restarted after a long break.
I am trying to juggle all the electronics into the WTC but I am running out of room, with batteries, pump & everything.
The dive tank is 550 x 50mm dia . What is the minimum size can it go to?
Any usefull comments will be welcome
TA %%
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Hi In my convertion ala Dave Welch the battery is outside the WTC I haven't found this a problem except for some corrosion round the terminals which I have since given a daub of silicone to . The battery is made up of two mobile phone batteries which are in series and wrapped and sealed in silicone wrap joined to the WTC via a connector. If you have the batteries inside the WTC every time you want to charge them you will have to dismantle everything. Not a very good idea on such a small model and to keep it watertight
Hope this helps
Ian
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Hi all
I have decided to seal the batteries in the free flood of the sub because I have run out of room in the WTC. When, and if, I do this
I will report back with method and pics. Even without the batteries the WTC is still cramped.
Wish me luck!? :o
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HEre you have some pics of the work to open all the hole in the deck of mine
(http://s4.postimage.org/uxd54bok/P1010026.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/uxd54bok/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/uxjr9pno/P1010025.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/uxjr9pno/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/uxopvr50/P1010024.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/uxopvr50/)
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Hi all.
Just when I thought I would get all the electrics finished, my dive micro switch went TxTs up.
The batteries will be in the bow section sealed in a balloon and all the decking made removable.
Apologies for the lack of photos I keep forgetting my camera! %%
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HI.Can You make a picture for the next time?.PLEASE!.
ok2 :-)
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Hi all.
Just some up to date photos of the WTC, as you can see things are very cramped. The batteries will in the bow section.
I still have some work to do in with the WTC. Will update ASAP O0
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The next 2 photos did not load so here they are :embarrassed:
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Oops
(http://s2.postimage.org/338n1seg4/IM000377.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/338n1seg4/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/338s0efxg/IM000378.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/338s0efxg/)
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Hi
The batteries will be sealed into a balloon enough wire so they can be easily removed for charging.
The main centre deck with the conning tower is sequired by bow deck section and that is held in place by 2 discs rotated by 90
Hope the pic is ok
;)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2w6orjc6c/Picture.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2w6orjc6c/)
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Nice work so far. What batteries are you using, often you can place them in the wet area without resorting to a baloon which can bring its own problems with stability when the battery heats up.
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Mankster
I am using 6 sub c type at 2200mAH capacity. I am open to any tips you may have.
Ta
O0
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Glue lined heatshrink tubing sounds ideal. Then seal the ends with silicone. I find that any gas produce can find its way out, or can you put a vent in one end if you prefer.
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Hi again
Noted you mention using 6 sub c batteries They will need quiet a lot of space and rather heavy I guess each must weigh about 35 grams each or so making a total of 210 grams . In my Revell type V11 conversion the battery only weighs 70grams and the size is 48mm x 34mm x 8mm made from two phone batteries. Weight and space can be a problem in this conversion it needs to submerge but also surface !!!
I was looking at lithium batteries on Ebay which are available 3.7 volt 2200mah and only weigh 40 grams each size 60mm x 18 mm two of these may do the job have actually ordered a couple to try .
Regards
Ian
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Thanks to Mankster's suggestion, I have used an old bike inner tube to cover the batteries and have sealed the ends with silicon mastic.
I hope to do harbour trials soon and let you all know.
Coolbumble, I have plenty of space in the bow, but I will see how everything goes in the trials. Thanks. :o
(http://s2.postimage.org/17lkv6xgk/Picture.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/17lkv6xgk/)
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That should work. Here a picture of my 12v pack in the bath. I used Glue lined heatshrink tubing. I used silicon fuel tubing to insulate the wire connectors.
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q191/Wheelerdealers/tt.jpg)
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I was wondering about batteries too. I'm about to start on the bulkhead compartment section on a Robbe version of this boat and the recommended batteries are 6v 5ah, if were to use different batteries would this mean moving these bulkhead dividers in advance? I still need batteries, rc and paint.
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Thanks for the info, but i decided to opt for the original batteries above to be on the safe side. I actually got hold of some Stabilit Express too after all. ok2
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Hi
Some pics of the battery arrangement.
The on/off switch is the plug & socket inside the WTC bulkhead. So all I need to do is plug in close WTC and slide it in parking the wire
into the bow.
Bath trials soon & will report back asap.
(http://s2.postimage.org/1zte36ckk/Picture_001.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1zte36ckk/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/1zthe91k4/Picture_002.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1zthe91k4/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/1ztmcv31g/Picture_003.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1ztmcv31g/)
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Hi
Now you have the battery outside why don't you also have the connector outside. It will save you having to disconnect and reconnect the WTC every time which isn't desirable once its watertight !!!!
I have found no problems doing this in my subs
Regards
Ian :-))
(http://s1.postimage.org/2yrb7ey9w/VC11_Battery_connection.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2yrb7ey9w/)
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Hi
The bath trials were a disaster, bow plunged straight down and I got water leeks to sort out. A good job it was in the bath as it would have been a one way one time only trip!
As Coolbumble suggested, the batteries were too heavy and I did not balance the C of G!
I am now thinking of using AA Or AA A's re-chargables and distributing them. Any tips /suggestions ?
:((
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Have a look at A123 Lihium LifePO4 batteries. You will only need two cells for the voltage you're running at, much easier to package than NimH or Nicads and this technology overcome many of the issues that you find with Lipo batteries. You will need a specific charger for them though.
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Hi Andy
Sorry to hear about your trials ! I had problems of leakage on my first sub a VC11 and sorted them with testing the WTC on its own and in the kitchen sink weighting it under the water if necessary and putting it through all its functions. My cause was ill fitting of the shaft seals which in the end I found I had to redo . To assist in "floating the boat" I use pieces of dense polystyrene attached to the upper sides of the hull . Trust you also sort out your battery probs this particular model due to its size is tricky as a first project.
To prove it happens to not just you I am enclosing pic of the WTC showing the water leaks I had to sort !!
Best of luck :-))
Ian
(http://s1.postimage.org/t1gsmybo/VC11_problem_003.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/t1gsmybo/)
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Have a look at A123 Lihium LifePO4 batteries. You will only need two cells for the voltage you're running at, much easier to package than NimH or Nicads and this technology overcome many of the issues that you find with Lipo batteries. You will need a specific charger for them though.
yup they are good, im just outfitting a second boat with them
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I think what is slowing up adoption of this superior battery technology is
1. Lack of knowledge.
2. Shortage of suitable chargers, or at least inexpensive ones.
3. A smaller selection of capacities and sizes.
4. Higher initial cost, although over time they should be a lot less expensive than lead acid batteries which are considered to be 'cheap' batteries.
I've noticed that Norbert Bruggen has started to spec them in his models (Deepflight Aviator kit shows liFe PO4 batteries recommended). They're far less sensitive to deep discharge, are housed in tough cylindrical housings like NiMH/Nicads and have the longest cycle life of any competing technology (2000 cycles).
Lipo still retains the crown for ultimate power density, but unless you're building a very quick boat like a Subdog, I see no reason to look beyond these batteries.
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Hi
I have followed advice and put 2 brass screws through the fore WTC bulkhead and will put vasileen around the plug a socket
to help with insulation.
I still have to trial this.
Sorry about the picture quality.
(http://s1.postimage.org/2vze64jt0/sub.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2vze64jt0/)
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Hi all
I am now back in circulation now my domestic life is back in some sort of order. <:(
I have had one awful S*D of a year and a near breakup of my marrage, fingers crossed it does not? :o
Now I have the impetus to start again on the project.
The sub has a slipping drive shaft to which supa glue need applying. I will report back when repaired.
:-)
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Hi all
I have now gone one step forwards IE dive prob fixed but gone 3 steps back because the o ring seal to the motor section has snapped.
Photo will come later, before I affect repairs, hopefully. <:(
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You can get almost any size seal from bearing and "O" ring suppliers should not be a problem Take a good one with you as a sample.
Even some companies supply on-line
:-))Ian
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Thanks Ian
But unfortunately it was WTC recess that had failed I am still looking into how I can reinforce it >>:-(
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Well I'm sure plenty of folk on here may have different ideas but I would have thought Araldite rapid would do the tick you can shape it when its really gone hard .
Ian :-))
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Any updates on this beautiful build?
May I know who's WTC is it you're using here. Thank you.
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Hi, any updates on your Type VIIC?
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Due to domestic probs I have been unable to continue with my project so far. But, when things settle down I will update you as per.
In answer to the question of who made the WTC. It was Mick at Hinkley Model Boat Club who well into Subs. I can provide a phone no if required.
Thanks for your patience