Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Working Vessels => Topic started by: unbuiltnautilus on November 13, 2010, 01:12:14 pm
-
Hi people,
My first post on Mayhem. As a member of the Portsmouth Model Boat Display Team I thought our new build would be of interest. A large scale effects model of the Texaco tanker, SS Ohio. This is being built as a simplified model in the style of those great Glynn Guest designs, only its 98" long! Only one piece of plywood cut so far, photos to follow.
-
Are you going the whole way and modelling it as she came into Malta after the Op Pedestal convoy with a destroyer
tied to each beam to get her safely into harbour - now that would be quite a model.
Geoff
-
The other members are supplying the destroyers, I just have to work out how to manouever them into position. Velcro anyone?
-
Cant wait to see the build :) ( also from portsmouth )
-
Hi everyone.
Day two of the build. The model is designed to break into three for transport. It is also designed with a reduced draught ( by almost 4" ) to reduce its all up weight. Thanks to yesterdays helper monkeys for all their help.
(http://s3.postimage.org/297tvk8zo/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/297tvk8zo/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/297vj3lhg/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/297vj3lhg/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/297yu6ah0/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/297yu6ah0/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/298258zgk/3_5.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/298258zgk/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/29873v0xw/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/29873v0xw/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/2988redfo/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2988redfo/)
-
When I was at Glasgow maritime university, my tutor was the RN fellah who received the VC for salvaging the Ohio. He was a truly lovely unpretentious charactor, his party trick was to run into the room and leap with both feet onto a desk with his hands out, does not sound much, but the desk was pushed up to a full length glass window on the 10 floor, he would afterwards with a mischievous grin remark that one day he might slip and at 65 years he ought to stop doing it. He was at the time of the Ohio incident C O of a fleet minesweeper, which he put alongside of the tanker and supervised the salvage of it, I might add he was a merchant navy master in the RNVR who was called up for the duration.
-
Well done for taking on a very big project.
The last photo shows some very nice clean woodwork and I look forward to watching the build with great interest.
Well done so far.
Cheers
John
:-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
-
I see what you mean, unbuiltnautilus - that's a Glynn Guestian build on steroids all right!
Looking forward to more!
Andy
-
When do you think she will be ready for the lake?
-
Hi, we are hoping to slap a coat of varnish on her and see if she floats on Sunday!!! Seriously though, the aim is to get her on the water for May next year...
or there abouts anyway.
-
Only 98 inches long...you boys are slipping.
Good build thread keep it up, will you be bringing up to the Mayhem weekend next year ? (28th &29th May) :-))
-
We get lost much north of Guildford, we miss the sea air!!
-
Where is the event held? Always looking out for a new venue and I keep hearing good things about the event.
-
The other members are supplying the destroyers, I just have to work out how to manouever them into position. Velcro anyone?
Magnets with a field coil to disconnect. Like the security doors.
-
I like your thinking, positive control. However, would this be a possible cause of interference to either 40mhz FM or 2.4G radio equipment? One for the experts I feel.
-
Days 3 and 4 of the build. The model is divided into three sections; Stern, containing radio control equipment, motor, batteries, possible sound system etc. Midships, containing the control box for the flashes, bangs and smoke. This section is to be fitted with two marine bilge pumps, to allow the model to ballast down to decks awash in a similar way to the real SS Ohio as she entered the safety of Malta, battle damaged and barely afloat. Bow, at the moment, probably just a water tight bouyancy compartment.
As you can see from the photos, a number of members are getting involved with the build, and our momentum hasn't faded yet!
The model is being built out of 8mm ply and we are trying out the new 'foaming' glues no the joints. The joints are screwed and glued, a neccesity with this expanding glue. The one we are using dries in 30 minutes, but reaches full strength in 24 hours. It takes a lot of sanding down! It is ideal for structural work, but I wouldn't use it to glue down deck fittings as they will end up on top of a little yellow hill!!
(http://s2.postimage.org/ewb285us/IMG_6524.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ewb285us/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/ewg0u7c4/IMG_6525.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ewg0u7c4/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/ewkzg8tg/IMG_6527.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ewkzg8tg/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/ewoaixt0/IMG_6529.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ewoaixt0/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/ewpy2aas/IMG_6531.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ewpy2aas/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/ewuwobs4/IMG_6532.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ewuwobs4/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/ewzvad9g/IMG_6538.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ewzvad9g/)
-
Re clagging two destroyers either side.
Assume scale of all three vessels is 1:72 ish, and that beam of destroyer is 6", perhaps two submerged 'outriggers' could be attached to OHIO's hull (one third the way back from bows) and both destroyers could manoeuvre their bows up to them? Outriggers would need to be swept back to avoid drift-off while underway and destroyers could then push their charge. :-)) All the better if she is ballasted down to "gunwhales awash". Need to be careful of destroyers raked bows riding up on the outriggers though...... %)
I wanna witness this when it happens!
Good luck!
-
Hi Yarpie,
We are planning some sort of outrigger design, possibly with some sort of connection point under the hulls of the destroyers. I'm not sure how to interpret the swept back bit of your suggestion, but it has me thinking about something hinged back in the flow of the water, that will deploy when the model stops or reverses slowly.
-
Hi unbuiltnautilus,
my suggestion of slightly sweeping back the outriggers is primarily to keep the destroyer's bows tight to OHIO's hull. If the outriggers were to extend at 90 degrees to the hull then the "attached" destroyer may veer-off. Once the bows are in "fixed" position then the rudders can do the rest. Presumably this evolution is part of a display so any detachment at the wrong moment may detract from that display.
I have seen some of the displays that you Portsmouth guys put on and they are truly world class.
Good luck on this venture, it's pretty ambitious. The build is coming along fine too. :-))
Any other ideas out there on how to achieve this iconic arrangement?
(http://s4.postimage.org/soicvs4k/ohiotow.gif) (http://www.postimage.org/)
-
formation driving by well practiced members id hope ?
-
Another idea may be a small recessed area with rail on the gunwhales of the tanker. Hooks fitted at the foc'sle break on each destroyer could be fashioned to connect with the rail. Problem with this is that if the tanker was to inadvertently sink, escorts would go under too! Tears at bedtime!
Where's Barnes Wallis when you need him? %)
-
formation driving by well practiced members id hope ?
Formation driving works best when there are one or less models involved on the water, at a time. :}
The radio involved with the bangs and flashes side of the model is a Planet T5, shown below, slightly modified. Will this invalidate the warranty?!
(http://s1.postimage.org/2298atsuc/IMG_6770.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2298atsuc/)
-
Build Day 5.
Most of the work today involved the locator 'keyways' bonded to the bulkheads between sections. These aid in the successful location of the three parts of the model ( along with M8 stainless nuts, bolt and washers. ). More Baffles/Deck Supports for the midships section, and the securing of the foredeck and small deck section in front of the bridge. This has 2 rectangular holes cut into it to allow access to the forward bolts that will hold the model together. The foredeck went on slightly crooked, so this is being forced horizontal by 2 timber supports until the Polyurethane glue goes off fully, nobodies perfect!! A 34" Crash Tender is posed for scale in one of the photos., a fellow members latest restoration job, looking very good so far.
(http://s3.postimage.org/21slmzw04/IMG_6776.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/21slmzw04/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/21stwomh0/IMG_6784.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/21stwomh0/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/21syvanyc/IMG_6788.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/21syvanyc/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/21t26dcxw/IMG_6789.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/21t26dcxw/)
-
Will this invalidate the warranty?!
(http://s1.postimage.org/2298atsuc/IMG_6770.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2298atsuc/)
I would be inclined to say yes.
-
Day Six, no sign of rescue, we keep looking for a ship but....
Back to the build.
(http://s2.postimage.org/1y2b8cihw/IMG_6797.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1y2b8cihw/)
A blur of activity at the stern, as propshaft and rudder installation begins.
(http://s2.postimage.org/1y2ognag4/IMG_6806.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1y2ognag4/)
This is not a caption competition! Comment removed to avoid offence..
(http://s4.postimage.org/1xgymg9b8/IMG_6811.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1xgymg9b8/)
Bow section receives a mid-deck.
(http://s4.postimage.org/1xhf5tq90/IMG_6815.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1xhf5tq90/)
While working diligently on the stern section, my fellow members decided to include the option to fit a second propshaft just below the first, 'if I needed a bit of extra power' is what they told me!
(http://s4.postimage.org/1xi2bcl5w/IMG_6819.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1xi2bcl5w/)
The bow section has its upper deck screwed down, a battle of wills over who will finish first, electric or manual screwdriver man..
(http://s4.postimage.org/1xir4eskk/IMG_6820.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1xir4eskk/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1xiw30u1w/IMG_6823.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1xiw30u1w/)
The finished bow assembly and stern section showing the blower motor temporarily fitted, next job, the bulkhead joints..
-
be down for "SEA TRIALS " this weekend then ! ! all saying the lake hasnt frozen up yet ?
-
Am considering fitting an ice strengthened bow out of oak! sea trials may take a little while yet, quality cannot be rushed!!!
-
we have some nice peices of stainless steel here could be sharpened up well !
-
As promised, sketch outlining a proposed method of securing two destroyers alongside the Ohio. I think it is self explanatory. Any thoughts for or against, would be appreciated...
(http://s4.postimage.org/15ekl2nok/ss_ohio2.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/15ekl2nok/)
-
Hi,
i am nowhere near as experienced as you, but i ma very interested in your build. i have one question about your idea for attaching the destroyers. its a good idea and the diagram is very self explanatory. but what if you want to reverse? would there be no way of maybe attaching the rod from the destroyer to a servo so it can be pushed up into the bracket, that way you will have far more control? just an idea. i look forward to seeing the result.
Tj
-
Alan,
this is very much in line with the suggestion of outriggers. Good principle but (there's always a 'but'....), on model destroyers some owners slide their batteries in through the foc'sle deck aperture. A big stick coming from keel to deck level would tend to get in the way. %) Notwithstanding, it would be possible to drill a hole in the keel of the destroyer and put a short rod in and make sure it really is secured in position to maintain the watertight integrity.
The idea is sound because it is 'quick release'. As OHIO is designed to sink to her gunwhales, any tendency to over-ballast would perhaps drag her under, causing two fully attached destroyers to go down with her.
I further like the idea as the two 'outriggers' can be designed to be removed from the OHIO's hull when it is on static display.
Also, from experience, there would be no reason for the conjoined vessels to go astern as the only motive power came from the destroyers anyway (propulsion and steering).
-
Thanks for the rapid responses. The reversing issue can be overcome by setting Ohios motor running very slowly astern, once the destroyers are attached. The destroyers would provide forward control, but as they throttle back, Ohio would provide astern control.
The holes through the destroyers issue; as an alternative, the post could be secured through the main deck aft of the funnel. Brought up to deck level, maybe under a removable set of torpedo tubes. Any water passing up through the tube would run off the deck without entering the model.
-
just to prove that there is something bigger than his ego and to give some real idea of length.
rshermanking
(http://s1.postimage.org/2ymcff4w4/DSC00650.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2ymcff4w4/)
-
Yay! Catch of the day!!
Good job it was bolted together....WHAT EGO?
-
are you sure hes safe being let loose with a hammer ?
-
you should have seen what he was doing with it just be for the picture was taken.
-
it ok ive heard what he was doing to the monster before the camera came out , i know it involved brut force to break the " seal " !
-
Hope everyone had a great Christmas,
16th December: Today we filled out the joining bulkheads with filler. The method here involved doping, then waxing one side of the bulkhead. Then slapping filler over the opposite side and slapping the two parts together. Then wind up the M8 bolts while resting the two parts of the hull on a flat surface.
(http://s4.postimage.org/1ahwzi65g/IMG_7061a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1ahwzi65g/)
Then comes the good bit. Once the filler has gone off its time to take the two parts apart. Following winding the nuts to the outer end of the threads, I proceeded to nut them with a hammer... Nothing...and again.....Nothing. Plan B, Place the joint between the two hull parts over the table edge and lean down on it!! Snap!!
(http://s4.postimage.org/1al6ent7o/IMG_7062a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1al6ent7o/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1al9pqi78/IMG_7063a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1al9pqi78/)
As you can see, the joints seperated with minimal damage, easy to repair.
Next up , fitting what I would call horizontal chine parts. These will allow the hull sides to change angle as they are fitted from deck to keel, imparting a bit of shape to the hull sides.
(http://s4.postimage.org/1an27p1gk/IMG_7068a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1an27p1gk/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1an3v8dyc/IMG_7081a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1an3v8dyc/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1an8tuffo/IMG_7082a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1an8tuffo/)
A good evenings work.
-
An ongoing parallel development is our butchering of a Planet T5 radio system to control the effects on four different models. As you can see, some modifications have been carried out to the standard set!!
(http://s4.postimage.org/1aq50pajo/IMG_7075a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1aq50pajo/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1aqttrhyc/IMG_7072a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1aqttrhyc/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1aqvhaug4/IMG_7079a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1aqvhaug4/)
Our technician, Helen, concentrating on the project at hand, the kettle was obviously empty at the time!!
The yellow dial and the red switch, top right, will control Ohios functions, while the other dials will control other models. The control box shown in the first image at the top, is designed to be interchangeable between different models as needed, kind of how the Royal Navy works these days...! %%
-
December 17th: It were mighty chilly at clubhouse today, so not much work done.
(http://s1.postimage.org/2wdef32dg/IMG_7089a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2wdef32dg/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2wdl18gck/IMG_7090a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2wdl18gck/)
This part was just a fillet between the two parallel frames forming the radio compartment. The foaming PU glue hasn't foamed out yet, but is clamped to prevent movement as it cures.
(http://s1.postimage.org/2wf8kky4k/IMG_7092a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2wf8kky4k/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2wfa84amc/IMG_7097a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2wfa84amc/)
These two images show the oak motor mount for the blower motor, and the three parts of the model assembled to show off its lines... Looks good so far. :-))
-
Good to see this project back towards the top of the leaderboard!
It's ambitious and unique to say the least. So many new ideas incorporated in its conception, it obviously requires a lot of pre-planning.
Great progress despite the weather conditions. Well done, and keep up the good work. :-))
Thanks also for keeping us posted on progress. :-))
As its a WWII tanker, can't wait to see the spaghetti arranged on the upper deck. %% :}
-
december 19th; Rear hatch cut out from the deck part, then screwed and glued down.
(http://s3.postimage.org/36stfkvus/IMG_7108a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/36stfkvus/)
Shown next is the scale, authentic to the period, Octura 47.5mm, 3 blade, Carbon Hydroprop. Dog drive type.
(http://s3.postimage.org/2d3dmys/IMG_7100a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2d3dmys/)
Well, it may not be authentic, but it is well made, and tough as old boots. :D
-
Good to see this project back towards the top of the leaderboard!
It's ambitious and unique to say the least. So many new ideas incorporated in its conception, it obviously requires a lot of pre-planning.
Great progress despite the weather conditions. Well done, and keep up the good work. :-))
Thanks also for keeping us posted on progress. :-))
As its a WWII tanker, can't wait to see the spaghetti arranged on the upper deck. %% :}
Cheers Mate, much appreciated.
The Pre-planning has proved to be a bit of a problem as 80% of it is in my head, while 20% is from plans ( which have not been out of the roll for two weeks!!). with the help on the build from fellow members, we have caught up with all the pre-planned stages and are now building 'in the dark'. I find myself staring at the model on occasions, not sure what to do next.. thank god for members input :-)).
Spaghetti will need to be fire and blast proof %% %% %%
-
December 23rd, the next series of photos show the deck access hatches cut into the centre section, also the two bilge pumps provisionally fitted. One to fill the centre section and one to empty it.
(http://s3.postimage.org/2769xwn8/IMG_7136a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2769xwn8/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2yvy3c3pg/IMG_7144a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2yvy3c3pg/)
Centre deck is now glued down in preparation for fitting the sides.
(http://s4.postimage.org/1d2wb8lno/IMG_7148a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1d2wb8lno/)
-
Back to December 19th a moment...
On the bottom of the model, the plan was to fit two battens 1" x 1/2" down the centre of the model, spaced about 6" apart. To provide stability when resting on the lakeside and to protect the prop and rudder. However John says "Why dont you do it like this??"
'This' entailed moving the batten to the edges of the hull, including the shaped sections fore and aft :o
However, in a moment of immense generosity, he then offered to fit them himself... who am I to argue.
(http://s4.postimage.org/1d3ycll0k/IMG_7099a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1d3ycll0k/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2yzt0h96s/IMG_7102a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2yzt0h96s/)
-
Back to December 19th a moment...
On the bottom of the model, the plan was to fit two battens 1" x 1/2" down the centre of the model, spaced about 6" apart. To provide stability when resting on the lakeside and to protect the prop and rudder. However John says "Why dont you do it like this??"
'This' entailed moving the batten to the edges of the hull, including the shaped sections fore and aft :o
However, in a moment of immense generosity, he then offered to fit them himself... who am I to argue.
(http://s4.postimage.org/1d3ycll0k/IMG_7099a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1d3ycll0k/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2yzt0h96s/IMG_7102a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2yzt0h96s/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1d44yqyzo/IMG_7104a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1d44yqyzo/)
What then followed could be described as the 'great christmas G-clamp hunt of 2010' , as the parts had been weakened by placing bandsaw cuts into them, it seemed unwise to drill and screw them into position. therefore it was decided to clamp and glue them only, a good test for the PU adhesive..
(http://s4.postimage.org/1d4yqf7vo/IMG_7113a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1d4yqf7vo/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1d50dykdg/IMG_7120a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1d50dykdg/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1d58nnauc/IMG_7121a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1d58nnauc/)
-
soon be putting the skins on ? ?
-
December 23rd again,
At the stern of the model, members were working on producing a pattern for the plywood hull plating. The intention is to use 8mm thick ply to skin the model. This is a bit heavy for normal use, a more practical hull thickness would be about 3mm, which would bend around awkward curves easier, however, this needs to be literally 'bomb proof'!
(http://s4.postimage.org/28b17uxlw/IMG_7125a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/28b17uxlw/)
The next series of photos show the pattern being produced from a heavy card, prototyped with a light card, and finally marked and cut out of 8mm 'flexiply'.
(http://s4.postimage.org/28b4ixmlg/IMG_7134a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/28b4ixmlg/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/28b7u0bl0/IMG_7137a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/28b7u0bl0/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/28bhr8ejo/IMG_7139a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/28bhr8ejo/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/28boddsis/IMG_7140a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/28boddsis/)
The next job will be fitting it :o
-
December 23rd...
The first image shows the bottom timbers trimmed to fit, thank you mister angle grinder :-))
(http://s4.postimage.org/28f4eotk4/IMG_7122a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/28f4eotk4/)
The next three photos show the provisional fitting of the two marine bilge pumps, what we call an action shot amongst them!!
(http://s4.postimage.org/28gi0t8dg/IMG_7127a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/28gi0t8dg/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/28gomymck/IMG_7128a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/28gomymck/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/28gv940bo/IMG_7131a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/28gv940bo/)
The final photo is an example of the law known as 'Murphys'...the model needed a drain hole through the centre bulkhead, so I get out the 22mm flat wood bitt and proceed to drill through the bulkhead..."you should drill it from both sides," advise the members helpfully. So......WHO put that wood screw THERE??? The same person who was drilling the hole and the same person who should have checked there were no screws in the way...
Being a genius should be a full time occupation {-)
Thats the build shut down till the new year, thanks for looking :-))
-
Good progress Alan and helper monkeys. :-))
Your last image indicates that you have a water vole in residence! O0
Have you worked out the effect of the water volume pumped into the centre section against the overall displacement of the vessel? From the images posted it looks to be considerable and should bring her down to 'gunwhales awash' position easily. It looks to be a very sturdy build so far and a vessel that's built to last. Almost as bombproof as the original. :-))
Keep it coming and Happy New Year.
-
Hi Yarpie,
We have put our best scientific minds on this problem, if it sinks to the bottom of the test tank when pumped down, its got too much water in it. Therefore, next time, we will use less water.
See, scientific :kiss:
-
have you fitted any bouyancy , just in case ?
-
The plan is to test the model with both ends, bow and stern buttoned up and watertight, in our 9' test tank ( TWO baths glued together, dont do nothing by halves down here in Portsmouth! ). We slowly fill the model up , if there isn't enough bouyancy on board, we will fit foam blocks into the centre section as needed. Rather like ballasting a model submarine. The foam blocks can be used to trim the model to port or starboard slightly, as well as altering fore and aft trim as needed. Once we are satisfied with the trim of the model flooded, the blocks can be permanently bonded into position.
Well, thats the plan....
-
i have some 2" foil coated stuff in the shed should you need some ?
-
Cheers Triumphjon,
Thanks for the offer, however at last years Southern model Airshow at Hop Farm I picked up some blocks of EPP Foam, ( looks like expanded polystyrene, but doesn't crumble into bits like expanded polystrene. ) enough for about four submarines and one tanker!!
-
Hi Allen,
Found this photo on the net, I expect you probaly already have, in case you have not I have attached it. By the way have thought of another way to attach Destroyers without having to fit anything to them such as pegs etc, when I am in your shop next with Bob, I will put them to you.
-
Old Dodes,
nice image of the OHIO being shepherded into Grand Harbour.
Would you consider sharing your idea of tethering the two destroyers with us online? I'm interested insofar as the two ideas stumbling around what remains of my brain are getting somewhat lonely! ;) (They are: 1. using the idea of outriggers to trap a projection under the destroyers keels, and: 2. some sort of electro-magnetic means [which can only be tested once the ships side is fitted to OHIO]).
Both of these options have been discussed earlier in the thread, but it is both refreshing and encouraging to hear that somebody else is interested and committed to the cause. :-))
Happy New Year to you. :-)
Yarpie.
-
I was thinking of a U shaped bracket in the vertical plain to fit abreast of the destroyers forescastle brake attached to the tanker and on the horizontal plain another bracket for the destroyers stem to lean on. This way the destroyers do not have to be modified in any way and with the vertical bracket that far back on the destroyer, the destroyer would be held fairly firm. The brackets can be manually adjusted to give best fit. Also the tanker would be very deep in the water when fully loaded anyway as tankers have a lot smaller freeboard to a normal freighter as they do not have cargo hatches to worry about, so she should not go much deeper through damage to the hull, also water will only go to the height of the hole after that the oil stays and gives some flotation. As I say it is only an idea, I expect knowing Alan he has researched it all out and has his answer to all the problems. Myself I am looking forward to seeing his display, as the Pompey boys have a reputation for giving very good displays.
-
my only concern for having boats attached physically would be what would happen should thte tanker start to sink too far , does it then take the other two vessels down with it ? maybe the " support vessels could have a radio operated shoot bolt to locate into an open topped slot in the tankers sides , should the tanker sink too far the shoot bolt will be free !
-
I was thinking of a U shaped bracket in the vertical plain to fit abreast of the destroyers forescastle brake attached to the tanker and on the horizontal plain another bracket for the destroyers stem to lean on. This way the destroyers do not have to be modified in any way and with the vertical bracket that far back on the destroyer, the destroyer would be held fairly firm. The brackets can be manually adjusted to give best fit. Also the tanker would be very deep in the water when fully loaded anyway as tankers have a lot smaller freeboard to a normal freighter as they do not have cargo hatches to worry about, so she should not go much deeper through damage to the hull, also water will only go to the height of the hole after that the oil stays and gives some flotation. As I say it is only an idea, I expect knowing Alan he has researched it all out and has his answer to all the problems. Myself I am looking forward to seeing his display, as the Pompey boys have a reputation for giving very good displays.
Thanks for the input, the main issue with the design of this system is that the draught of the Ohio will alter through the display as water is pumped into the model following the simulated attacks on the fleet. The method used to secure the destroyers will have to involve something that, preferably remains invisible at both light load and deep draught. Contrary to popular belief, I dont yet have the answer to this one as it involves not just the Ohio model but also, at least two of the teams destroyers. therefore , the request to drill holes through their models will need some discussion!! Now back to the new year celebrations, JD and lemonade tonight...
-
hence a shoot bolt in the side of destroyers to locate in a slot in the tanker hull , will explain , give diagram next time im in shop , aint worked out how to draw pics on these machines yet , ive not long learned how to type !
-
god bless, you sweet west country type!!!
-
Gents the Ohio was deep loaded with cargo, when she lost some to splinters, not alot she probaly only went down 3 ft or may have come up with cargo burnt off a few feet. I doubt if there was a major change in freeboard.
-
Great to see discussion on this topic. :-)) Precisely what the site is about.
Hope your New Years Eve celebrations went well. (Nice bottle of Claret destroyed a further 20% of my brain cells). %%
Thanks for responding Old Dodes and your input is appreciated. (Especially by the destroyer boys no doubt!!). :-))
-
the bolt idea is a good one but you need to be lined up in the right spot to fire the bolt, and to do this from a distance could be a bit of a problem at best.I believe a post in the bottom of the destroyers and a v shaped bracket on the tanker would be the best and simplest option to do,as then the two destroyers only have to come along side and keep going forward to they hit the v bracket on the tanker. When the two boats are along side all they provide is forward momentum as the tanker doses the steering and braking
bat44
-
Hi ya
Have you thought about considering magnets to secure the two destroyers to the side of the tanker?
When I used to work in some heavy engineering industries - around open pieces of machinery - there used to be steel safely cages. The doors on these cages were always kept secure using strong horseshoe shaped magnets. Knowing that megnets of this strength are available; I would suggest 3 of the magnets are placed both port & starboard on the insides of the tanker and corresponding steel plates are placed on the inside of the destroyers - as soon as the destroyers come alongside the tanker and the plates then line up with the magnets - you may have some difficulty removing the destroyers from the side of the tanker.
Another thing if you use magnets of the suggested strength you better put a warning up for people who have pace makers fitted. In fact the possibilities are endless you could end up with a tanker which collects all steel garbage from the bottom of the lake. {-) {-) {-) {-) mmmm food for thought there my friend.
aye
john
-
That was my first thought, magnets.
-
just had an idea well bro's idea the best one in years for him ;D , if the destroyer boys do not want to put holes in their boats how about gluing a tube to the bottom of their boats length ways,and then insert a bar bent at 90 degrease and secured in with a pin or a couple of bolts.This can also be used as a keel weight in bad wheather
bat44
-
i hear talk of electro magnets , possibly placed in the side skins of the tanker , with a corrisponding plate inside the destroyer hulls , which sounds much better than modifying the hulls of much prized destroyers , would also mean that by including a section of steel along each side of the escort ships then different models could be substituted should the need arise ?
-
magnets is a good idea but what sort of magnets and how strong will they need to be? and what if you can not put a metal plate in the boat,and would this not put extra weight into a boat that has a low free board
bat44
-
talking to one of the destroyer boys today he thinks that having a post from the bottom of the boat is the most easiest, simple and safest option. But if any one has a better idea
bat44
-
nodym magnets are very strong and free if you crack open some old hard drives!!! find a pc repairer, they normally throw old hard drives!
-
This afternoon I looked onto RS Components website, to look for door magnets that we used to use at work - cos I know they are very strong - there are several magnets on the site which are equivalent to the safety magents which we used to use. Also, I noticed there were elctro magents used for safety doors - the voltage on these varied from 24 volts to 230 volts. 24 volts I should imagine would be no problem with 2 x 12 volt batteries linked together. Drawback though - price - bit heftily priced these electro magnets
aye john
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=retrieveTfg&binCount=59&Nty=1&Ntx=mode%2bmatchallpartial&Ntk=I18NAll&Ne=4294957561&Nr=AND%28avl%3auk%2csearchDiscon_uk%3aN%29&N=4294955519&Ntt=magnets
-
bat44, good input man. :-)) As a destroyerman in reality (3 WWII destroyers during a 25 year RN career) and also as a model boat destroyer driver, I would go for the 'drop down post' method. The reason behind this is purely selfish. I own two of the half dozen or so destroyers that may be tethered to the side of a sinking OHIO. I don't want to lose either. As in REAL SEAMANSHIP , when replenishing at sea (fuel or solids), or when two (or more) ships are connected by whatever means, a quick breakaway mechanism is ESSENTIAL. I had a friend die in the HMS FITTLETON disaster.
I have a highly qualified colleague looking into the possibilities of electro-magnetic connection but we have discovered a time lag when the magnets are de-activated. This could be between one to five seconds, so much work needs to be carried out in this field to ensure an instant breakaway, should it be necessary.
Another alternative suggested is the horizontal tube running along the keel method. There is definitely mileage in that too.
Thanks everybody for your input in this little conundrum. Perhaps it may have been better for our little display team if the actual OHIO had not been so stubborn and had relented and sank following the massive damage she received. %) But therein lies the challenge. ok2
-
re the electro magnets , at least its not quite so critical as to the location alongside , as a realativly large length of steel could be placed along the inside of the destroyers hulls , it would also pay to fit this along both inside faces thus making vessels universal to whichever side they were needed ? would fitting extra bouyancy in the destroyers help with peace of mind ? i see the offshore racing guys fit pool noodles inside there hulls !
-
fitting extra buoyancy can be used but only works if the buoyancy is in the water , and the racing boys and girls put buoyancy in their boats in case they have a racing incident to keep their boats afloat if they take on water.Any way any one heared the old saying...... K.I.S.S
BAT44
-
Nice to see active discussion on the subject. Not sure upon first reading of the requirement for pot noodles! Second reading makes more sense.
Can I make one thing clear to everyone... IT WILL NOT SINK. Trust me!!
-
is'nt that what they said about the titanic
bat44
-
Some pix of a nice Ohio model here:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1142176&page=3#post17050587
Still try to determine if it is a builder's model. Would be a nice reference if so, so far I've only found G/A plans for the Ohio (courtesy Mr. Wyatt of Malta, who has built several Ohios).
-
hi Pat thank you for the information will come in handy for when we build the superstructure :-)) :-)) :-))
bat44
-
its not so much the ohio might sink , more a concern that the escort ships being taken down by the tanker should a problem arise ! think they call it covering all possibilities ? as we ALL know surface models dont run too well below the surface of the lake , espesially destroyers ! !
-
hi Pat thank you for the information will come in handy for when we build the superstructure :-)) :-)) :-))
bat44
My pleasure. A few posts prior to the one I linked to, find photos of the Texaco Oklahoma under construction... she's a sister to Ohio.
-
hi every one here's some pics of us putting the sides on the back section of the tanker, how many clamps can you count
bat44
(http://s2.postimage.org/1to56sx2c/DSC00746.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1to56sx2c/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/1toa5eyjo/DSC00747.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1toa5eyjo/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/1togrkcis/DSC00749.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1togrkcis/)
-
Now THAT is some robust ships side!
A fitting tribute to the builders of the original ship. Almost bombproof and sturdy protection against even the worst of destroyer skippers manoeuvring alongside!
BTW, is there a safeguard against over pumping the ballasted section? Wouldn't want to pressurise that compartment and force the plating.
Very good creative project, well done the team. :-))
-
I'm just one of the monkeys the technical stuff I'll leave to the back room boy's, but it probably be an air vent on the Deck to let the air out but high enough not to let the water in...................K.I.S.S
BAT44
-
Doe's anyone now the loaded freeboard for the Ohio, just asking out of interest, that is the distance between her main deck and loadline.
-
is the model having a load line ? i get the impression she will be running decks awash , with the centre section of the hull full of water !
-
If you see any photo's of her plus a short movie film taken of her entry into Malta, she would appear to be down to her loadline. But if she was main deck level after the initial attack you are talking about 3 foot above her loadline, but I believe she had a hit in her engine room which put out her m/engine plus splinter damage to deck etc. I do not know what her damage was but she did break her back after discharge, but that can be caused by incorrect method of discharge stressing the hull already stressed by bomb damage to hull structure etc, as I have never seen a damage survey report on her.
-
Hi Old Dode's as to the distance of loaded freeboard to her main deck i do not no, but i will have a word with unbuilt and ask him as he has the plans for this build and he can work it out for you. As to this model having a load line painted on is a good question if the real one had one then we would pot one on as well. But we will git to that at a latter date as we have enough things to do as it is.
So getting on with things here's some more pic's
(http://s1.postimage.org/svjbjps4/DSC00763.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/svjbjps4/)
my not be the best way or the neatest way of modeling but it's working for us
(http://s1.postimage.org/svoa5r9g/DSC00764.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/svoa5r9g/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/swva4s3o/DSC00767.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/swva4s3o/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/sx1wa62s/DSC00768.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/sx1wa62s/)
this is what we are going to use to sink and hope to raise the tanker with
(http://s2.postimage.org/2c425khus/DSC00770.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2c425khus/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2c43t3uck/DSC00771.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2c43t3uck/)
if you can see it in the pic's the start of the water proofing
(http://s2.postimage.org/2c50vus84/DSC00772.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2c50vus84/)
this is meant to be the start of the bow {:-{
(http://s2.postimage.org/2c546xh7o/DSC00776.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2c546xh7o/)
-
I was just asking as it would give you a good reference point to start from, for working out the ups and down distance of the model for your display. After all all merchant men have them including RFA's.
-
Old Dode's i don't think we are that bothered about the start point as long as it looks right on the water at the start and at the end of the display
-
More action at the building slip;
(http://s2.postimage.org/2eplbr3ac/IMG_7252.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2eplbr3ac/)
You people have driven me to this!! Forcing airflow into a smoke unit, in this case the Hunter Systems one. I did not inhale!!
(http://s2.postimage.org/2eprxwh9g/IMG_7262.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2eprxwh9g/)
J Perkins S04 1/4 scale servo fitted for rudder control.
(http://s2.postimage.org/2eptlftr8/IMG_7266.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2eptlftr8/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2epv8z690/IMG_7267.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2epv8z690/)
The flexiply stern part being test fitted.
-
Buttoning up the stern section;
(http://s2.postimage.org/2eqgqyoo4/IMG_7274.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2eqgqyoo4/)
First to go in is the builders insulation foam, for to keep the beast afloat, at all times!!
(http://s2.postimage.org/2eqk21dno/IMG_7279.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2eqk21dno/)
Then we accidentally snap the flexipy in half and look on sheepishly as the plan changes!
(http://s2.postimage.org/2eqnd42n8/IMG_7284.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2eqnd42n8/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2eqsbq44k/IMG_7292.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2eqsbq44k/)
Finally the G Clamp tree comes out to play, look, a tank in our boat thread, unheard of %)
-
Angle grinder is our friend!!
(http://s2.postimage.org/2esuqwqck/IMG_7511.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2esuqwqck/)
Also 1" brass nails and hammer!! It aint pretty, yet..
(http://s2.postimage.org/2esy1zfc4/IMG_7517.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2esy1zfc4/)
Bow section, starting with an oak strip..
(http://s2.postimage.org/2et1d24bo/IMG_7524.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2et1d24bo/)
Followed by two mahogany blocks..
(http://s2.postimage.org/2et4o4tb8/IMG_7531.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2et4o4tb8/)
looks like ankle grinder will have to be our friend again next time :-))
-
see you can down load your photo's it's not that hard is or did you have help from a friend {-) {-) {-) ;D :P
-
Mores the question, when is the planned launch, I want to come over and see it after so much natter on it.
-
If you see any photo's of her plus a short movie film taken of her entry into Malta, she would appear to be down to her loadline. But if she was main deck level after the initial attack you are talking about 3 foot above her loadline, but I believe she had a hit in her engine room which put out her m/engine plus splinter damage to deck etc. I do not know what her damage was but she did break her back after discharge, but that can be caused by incorrect method of discharge stressing the hull already stressed by bomb damage to hull structure etc, as I have never seen a damage survey report on her.
The Ohio was torpedoed midships quite early in the action, leaving a 25' x 30' hole in the side. She then suffered a number of very near misses from bombs which put further major stresses on the hull. A bomb hit the ship in aproximately the same place as the torpedo hit which almost definately resulted in the ship breaking its back. A further hit on the bows resulted in fires that were quickly extinguished. A Ju87 dive bomber and Ju88 bomber also crashed onto the ship during the action. She was decks awash as she approached the minefield outside Valletta harbour but her main deck appears to be about 3' above the sea in the photo of her entering the harbour. The crew were also forced to abandon ship twice during the voyage, both times electing to re-join the ship when she failed to sink. Quite an achievement, i think.
As far as load waterlines etc, I will check our drawings and report back...
-
Mores the question, when is the planned launch, I want to come over and see it after so much natter on it.
The plan is to present a comlete display at the Weymouth model weekend in July ( on the Sunday ). I hope the model will be in the water by late May :-))
Probably %%
-
Is there any plan to try her out in Pompey, like canoe lake, I would really like to see her.
-
Just thought, the crew would return if she did not sink, for no other reason that when they abandon a ship, they go off pay. Because in the merchant navy you sign on the ship for the voyage only, once off the owners stop pay immediately.
-
Just thought, the crew would return if she did not sink, for no other reason that when they abandon a ship, they go off pay. Because in the merchant navy you sign on the ship for the voyage only, once off the owners stop pay immediately.
Not for king and country then??
-
More on the marathon build..
(http://s2.postimage.org/pwcootk4/IMG_7571.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/pwcootk4/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/pwjau7j8/IMG_7579.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/pwjau7j8/)
First, the stern section. Now buttoned up with the last piece of flexiply fitted. At first we were not sure about an 8mm thick bulwark being exposed, and were going to fit a bit of 1.5mm ply and fair it in. However, at the moment it looks fine.
(http://s2.postimage.org/pxryckv8/IMG_7577.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/pxryckv8/)
We have fitted two M6 brass bolts through the bottom of the bow section, and two through the bottom of the stern section. These are just in case we have to bolt on extra ballast low in the model. There is a possibility that the model may become unstable as it floods with water. If so, we can either add foam into the centre section ballast tank, or ballast weights fore and aft... as I say, just in case ok2
-
its going to look amazing in displays
-
to the pointy end :-))
(http://s2.postimage.org/pyvn8wpw/IMG_7581.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/pyvn8wpw/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/pyyyblpg/IMG_7582.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/pyyyblpg/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/pz3wxn6s/IMG_7583.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/pz3wxn6s/)
First we fitted the builders insulation foam. In normal circumstances this serves no purpose, however, if we blow a hole in the side of the model during the course of a display, we will be greatful for its inclusion >>:-(
(http://s2.postimage.org/pzisrrms/IMG_7573.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/pzisrrms/)
Bow plating dry run..
(http://s2.postimage.org/pznrdt44/IMG_7585.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/pznrdt44/)
Some measuring up..
(http://s2.postimage.org/pzpex5lw/IMG_7588.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/pzpex5lw/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/pzr2gi3o/IMG_7589.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/pzr2gi3o/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/pzspzulg/IMG_7593.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/pzspzulg/)
On go the sides. They are screwed into the middle, horizontal ply part, which pulls them into shape with only the occasional screw needed along the upper part of the hull to close up any gaps that appear.
(http://s2.postimage.org/q0o57fz8/IMG_7598.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/q0o57fz8/)
A good couple of evenings work. Next time you see the bow it will be trimmed and looking like Ohio, may need a bit of filler first,though O0
-
its going to look amazing in displays
I have wanted to build SS Ohio for over 20 years, my interest was fired up when I saw a painting of her, on fire, flanked by destroyers going flat out, dodging bombs. Its little things like that which can lead to big builds, look at me and my unbuilt, whats the plural for more than one Nautilus???
-
.............. whats the plural for more than one Nautilus???
Ninetylus? %%
-
thats going to be his age when he gets to build all of his dreams !
-
I have wanted to build SS Ohio for over 20 years, my interest was fired up when I saw a painting of her, on fire, flanked by destroyers going flat out, dodging bombs.
i have wanted to build a galleon for years but my interest was fired up when i watched pirates of the Caribbean :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
its the same thing right possibly not maby not %) %) %) %) %) %) %) %) %) %) %) %) %) %) %)
-
This is a great effort and I'm very pleased that PEDESTAL is still remembered - my Uncle Buster (FAA) and his W/Op gunner and (I think) Skua are still at the bottom of the Med following his participation in PEDESTAL. More power to your elbows, chaps.
-
That makes all the planning, building, logistics etc all the more worthwhile tobyker. We will bear in mind the 400 personnel killed in action in Pedestal during our display. Their sacrifices are still remembered, not least by the people of Malta who celebrate the arrival of those five gallant ships and their 45,000 tons of supplies to this day. Every August 15th, the ships in Grand Harbour sound their sirens and horns for a full minute in honour of the "Santa Maria Convoy" that saved the island. :-))
-
The build continues;
Firstly, having checked the drawings, i can confirm depth from main deck to load Waterline ( the land lubber in me feels this is the correct term for how far you fall before you get wet if your boat is full of stuff! ) as 10' on SS Ohio. I have marked this on the following photo but may ballast the model to the lower mark, for the sake of visual interest as she settles in the water.
(http://s1.postimage.org/2w582m5ok/IMG_7708.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2w582m5ok/)
This is the day it starts to look like the prototype. Firstly the bow is trimmed and sanded.
(http://s1.postimage.org/2w5myga4k/IMG_7678.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2w5myga4k/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2w5olzmmc/IMG_7680.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2w5olzmmc/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2w5tklo3o/IMG_7677.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2w5tklo3o/)
Its times like this that you just have to stand back and stare at the model, saying repeatedly.." I like the look of that..."
The other major job of the day is side plates on the centre section..
(http://s1.postimage.org/2w6a3z51g/IMG_7683.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2w6a3z51g/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2w6brihj8/IMG_7684.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2w6brihj8/)
Yay!! Grahams back on the build.... The sides are dry fitted and the internal bulkhead positions are marked on the inner face of the ply. As you can see, we are placing the ply painted side inwards. this is to ensure the timber is waterproof INSIDE the ballast tank section. The paint is ground off the ply anywhere it is going to be bonded, to ensure a good mechanical joint.
(http://s1.postimage.org/2w70kkoxw/IMG_7700.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2w70kkoxw/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2w75j6qf8/IMG_7695.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2w75j6qf8/)
The sides are first bonded, and then screwed in position, the sides are manouvered into position by eye and by touch, the screws are placed into the pilot holes and tapped into position using a 'dockyard screwdriver' ( usually referred to as a hammer by a chippy, and a dockyard screwdriver by those who worked within the confines of HM Dockyard, Portsmouth...."Just hit it!" ).
(http://s1.postimage.org/2w7pdmwck/IMG_7704.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2w7pdmwck/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2w7uc8xtw/IMG_7705.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2w7uc8xtw/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2w7vzsabo/IMG_7706.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2w7vzsabo/)
Finally, with the bow block sanded to shape and the sides on, she is starting to look the part. However, with foaming glue oozing out of various parts of the model, we cannot bolt her together for an end of session photo {:-{
No more updates this week, as we are off to Alexandra Palace on Sunday to eat bacon rolls and photograph the London skyline...again :-))
-
when you say we to you mean you in your multi colour car {-) {-) {-) {-) {-)
-
when you say we to you mean you in your multi colour car {-) {-) {-) {-) {-)
Its warmer than going up, towed in the trailer behind your bycycle :-))
-
touche
-
Sides are on and its starting to look like something..
(http://s3.postimage.org/46nncs90/IMG_7975.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/46nncs90/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/46u9i684/IMG_7978.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/46u9i684/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/46z847pg/IMG_7979.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/46z847pg/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/472j6wp0/IMG_7985.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/472j6wp0/)
A convenient 51" 1/48 scale Flower Class Corvette is provided to give some idea of the size of the tanker.
Tonight I leave the build in the hands of my fellow members...what could go wrong??
Yesterdays project, slightly off subject, but hey :}
(http://s3.postimage.org/4a0dl4as/IMG_7994.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4a0dl4as/)
-
Great progress on the SS OHIO, u-b-n, it certainly is a robust hull! Considering there have been no plans to work from, the build pace is impressive.
Well done to you and your helper monkeys. :-))
-
Great progress on the SS OHIO, u-b-n, it certainly is a robust hull! Considering there have been no plans to work from, the build pace is impressive.
Well done to you and your helper monkeys. :-))
I could start a thread on the subject.....
1; use plan to cut out first bit.
2; cut second bit to fit.
3; continue until you have run out of a) bits to do, b) wood, c) the will to live.
Here endeth the lesson :-))
-
Simplicity!!
And there was little old me thinking that there could possibly be complicated issues regarding model boat construction. :D
Right, give me 20 minutes and I'll finish off the RODNEY refit. :-))
Joking apart, well done to you and the team. :-))
-
its certainly taking shape well , wont be long before shes up and running !
-
well here we are again this time with out the top monkey because he was tired <:( so it was left to just us to do some work tonight,at least he left a note showing what was needed to be done bless him.
(http://s2.postimage.org/313bn4g4k/DSC00782.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/313bn4g4k/)
so now we had a plan for the night's work, so what did we do first ? ........... yep put the kettle on :-)) {-)
(http://s2.postimage.org/314dohfhg/DSC00798.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/314dohfhg/)
so after the 1st cup of tea and donut's it was time for work. Because the glue we are using is new to us and the way in which we are using it we thought it was safe to back up the clue joints with some epoxy on the back and front of the boat
(http://s2.postimage.org/316eg4p7o/DSC00784.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/316eg4p7o/)
to do this we had to open the glue joints so we could pour some epoxy into the joint
(http://s2.postimage.org/317bivn38/DSC00785.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/317bivn38/)
-
so by this time................. yep we put the kettle on again. With the glue joints opened up we can now pour the epoxy into the joints to make them stronger
(http://s2.postimage.org/319w4z2qs/DSC00786.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/319w4z2qs/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/31a2r4gpw/DSC00787.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/31a2r4gpw/)
when this was done a gentle use of a hot air gun was used to make the epoxy run into the joints and left to dry, sorry no pic forgot to take one of me doing this. :embarrassed:
after the epoxy had set it was time to put some filler on
(http://s2.postimage.org/31cvmwmuc/DSC00801.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/31cvmwmuc/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/31d2920tg/DSC00799.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/31d2920tg/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/31dfhcsro/DSC00800.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/31dfhcsro/)
-
unbuilt we need some more of this please :-))
(http://s2.postimage.org/31e7lhp5w/DSC00797.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/31e7lhp5w/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/31hz7k5no/DSC00802.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/31hz7k5no/)
first part of the forward bridge section, this is were the fun starts
(http://s2.postimage.org/31izldsis/DSC00804.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/31izldsis/)
this is also where the pyro box is going to be kept to operate the bangs for the boat
(http://s2.postimage.org/31jwo4qec/DSC00794.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/31jwo4qec/)
not a monkey but a gorilla who should be working on he's boat not his tank.Well thats it for tonight it's 10.30 and the key holder has to go home for his coco and then go to bed
-
I will have to take the fuse out of the kettle!!
I see robs wig is on the seat behind him :-))
-
I will have to take the fuse out of the kettle!!
I see robs wig is on the seat behind him :-))
well i had to take it of because it kept falling in front of my eyes
-
Its progressing well. The main hulls are complete, except for filler and many coats of sealer, and it is currently just over 98.5" long!!
(http://s4.postimage.org/1xklcvuck/IMG_8087.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1xklcvuck/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1xkqbhvtw/IMG_8089.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1xkqbhvtw/)
Fibreglass repair paste on the bows and body filler around the stern. Note tidy work bench :}
(http://s4.postimage.org/1xkwxn9t0/IMG_8092.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1xkwxn9t0/)
I am not confident of a 100% waterproof seal between the panels on the bow and stern. Therefore following the sterns milling out on our last visit, it was now the turn of the bow. The joints are milled out to a depth of 1/8" wide and 1/8" wide. These are then filled with fast drying epoxy resin adhesive, and finally filled over with body filler.
(http://s4.postimage.org/1xlifms84/IMG_8094.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1xlifms84/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1xlk364pw/IMG_8095.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1xlk364pw/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1xllqph7o/IMG_8097.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1xllqph7o/)
The other job was the final finishing around the bridge area. This part of the model contains the control box for the bangs and flashes. This needs to be secured against moving too much, therefore we cut the upper hatch as an interference fit around the control box.
(http://s4.postimage.org/1xlvnxk6c/IMG_8100.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1xlvnxk6c/)
The days work finished, all that is left is the posing shot %). Note the plan in the background, it is out of its tube again as we contemplate the bridge detail.
Just a brief sketch to outline the planned positioning of everything within the model.
(http://s4.postimage.org/1xmduudlw/Ohio_Spec2a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1xmduudlw/)
-
Superb. ok2
BRAVO ZULU. :-))
Bravo = well; Zulu = done.
-
look at you with the Fancy words
bat44
-
i just looked at the post begining to pressent and its coming along fantastically the actual boat is 10 times more cool in person than the photos sho
in the words of yarpie well done bravo zullu
-
i just looked at the post begining to pressent and its coming along fantastically the actual boat is 10 times more cool in person than the photos sho
in the words of yarpie well done bravo zullu
Cheers mate :-))
99" and growing, well unless we count a jackstaff at the stern, I think it is now officially 99". Couldn't tell you the scale, I dont have the original ships length to hand, come on mayhemers, what scale is she? Can you tell me before I get home this evening and work it out myself?
-
i have a commercial sized spray gun and compressor should you wish to spray the hull ?
-
Cheers mate :-))
99" and growing, well unless we count a jackstaff at the stern, I think it is now officially 99". Couldn't tell you the scale, I dont have the original ships length to hand, come on mayhemers, what scale is she? Can you tell me before I get home this evening and work it out myself?
SS Ohio was 515ft long so the scale is roughly 1:62.
Now to go and get a life. :embarrassed:
-
So that would require chopping a 10" chunk out of the middle to bring it to 1:72 scale then, in line with the rest of the convoy ..... ;D
I know .... I know..... shadduppa you face!!! :embarrassed:
-
i have a commercial sized spray gun and compressor should you wish to spray the hull ?
Many thanks for the offer, I still have a commercial sized spray gun and compressor which I borrowed from a fellow member about 2 years ago, to spray an R2D2, and he wont get it back until Ohio is grey!!
-
So that would require chopping a 10" chunk out of the middle to bring it to 1:72 scale then, in line with the rest of the convoy ..... ;D
I know .... I know..... shadduppa you face!!! :embarrassed:
You said it ;)
-
SS Ohio was 515ft long so the scale is roughly 1:62.
Now to go and get a life. :embarrassed:
Trip to local model shop. Conversation as follows..."Why dont you sell 1/62 scale figures, there must be a market for them, I want them?? and have you got window frames to fit the model ? NO...what sort of model shop do you call this?!"
Well, thats off my chest >>:-(
-
Hi
I always find that with model shops or usually they say "we can order it in for you". :((
-
Hi
I always find that with model shops or usually they say "we can order it in for you". :((
The ideal model shop stocks one of everything available, everywhere. Then someone asks for 'two please', and you have to 'order it in.'Maybe they should stock ten of everything available, everywhere. Then someone asks.......... ;)
-
That isn't a reasonable proposition - that means you have to store 10 of everthing - most model shops are small business premises and
the overriding thing would be cost probably having to pay in advance for all these bits of kit in the hope of selling them sometime soon.
Could cause serious problems with cashflow then no modelshop.
Geoff
-
That isn't a reasonable proposition - that means you have to store 10 of everthing - most model shops are small business premises and
the overriding thing would be cost probably having to pay in advance for all these bits of kit in the hope of selling them sometime soon.
Could cause serious problems with cashflow then no modelshop.
Geoff
Preaching to the converted, I just hope others understand :-)
-
Bow bulwark today, I miscalculated when we laid the deck and forgot the bulwark. Step up Mark with his patented armoured bulwark method.
(http://s3.postimage.org/2vqm70y6c/IMG_8110.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2vqm70y6c/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/2vqr5mzno/IMG_8117.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2vqr5mzno/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/2vqxrsdms/IMG_8118.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2vqxrsdms/)
Quick stop for tea!!
(http://s3.postimage.org/2vr61h43o/IMG_8123.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2vr61h43o/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/2vrj9rw1w/IMG_8131.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2vrj9rw1w/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/2vrt6zz0k/IMG_8134.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2vrt6zz0k/)
Looking much better with than without, cheers Mark :-))
-
Filling and sanding, again. Here we are addressing the aft to midships join, this wasn't 100% and needed some attention. Parcel Tape makes for a really great 'easy release' surface, so it went on one side of the joint, while filler went on the other, wind the two together and wait for it to cure.
(http://s3.postimage.org/35jxpb478/IMG_8113.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/35jxpb478/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/35k10dt6s/IMG_8115.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/35k10dt6s/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/35k4bgi6c/IMG_8116.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/35k4bgi6c/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/35khjra4k/IMG_8129.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/35khjra4k/)
Then you snap it apart and hope for the best :o
(http://s3.postimage.org/35lojqays/IMG_8127.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/35lojqays/)
And if we dont do a good enough job, Uncle Joe will be sending round 'the boys!'
-
how long till float test :} :} :} {-) %% ok2 ;)
-
how long till float test :} :} :} {-) %% ok2 ;)
Early days yet, ask again in a month or so.
-
Early days yet, ask again in a month or so.
Yup! If you're going to design a model that sinks, first thing to ensure is that it doesn't sink. O0
(Now there's a contradiction in terms). %%
-
hi all
just like to show photos of my new hunt class for the display
(http://s4.postimage.org/cvs77w6c/IMG_0058.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/cvs77w6c/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/cwae4plw/IMG_0062.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/cwae4plw/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/czyp4h44/IMG_0065.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/czyp4h44/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/d0k73zj8/IMG_0066.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/d0k73zj8/)
-
hi s-boat nice to see you are getting with the program,are those prop shafts at the same hight
bat44
-
if the spacing on the support block is anything to go by id say not !
-
if they are like the first attempt of putting in the shafts i would say no {-) {-) %%
rshermanking
-
At the risk of digressing from the OHIO thread,....................................... good work s-boat. :-))
Very important to have a Type II Hunt class in the Pedestal convoy, especially HMS LEDBURY, one of the 'stars'. Failing that, perhaps something local; HMS HAVANT. O0
But I like the OHIO's length in relation to the destroyer hull. Just about right. :-))
-
well Thursday has come and gone and what did we do ?........ not a lot, the idea was to get the hull ready for some paint in the next couple of weeks but we were court out by the new filler we had started to use
(http://s2.postimage.org/xnhb8d9g/DSC00845.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/xnhb8d9g/)
here we are mixing the filler before we use it, yes we need that much.As it was a new type of filler we were not sure how much hardener to use so we went with what we know from the other fillers we have being using,
(http://s2.postimage.org/xp4ukv1g/DSC00854.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/xp4ukv1g/)
OPS ....this is what happings when you do not put enough hardener in sitting around with hot air guns getting the filler to go of.Well thats all we could do that night, so after a cup of tea and an hour of sitting around talking we went home early for a change. So you will have to wait for sunday for the story to be carried on
-
(http://s2.postimage.org/xytsz38k/DSC00860.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/xytsz38k/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/xyyrl4pw/DSC00861.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/xyyrl4pw/)
so what happened here graham
-
I believe this was our first 'waterproofing test' involving a spilt cup of tea. The model stood up to this test well, better in fact than the member, who promptly burst into tears, having just paid 50p for the privilege of a hot brew....
-
Mein Gott!!
what on earth are you lot up to??
Christening the ship with scalding hot tea (five sugars please) and then letting a crazed lumberjack loose with a heatgun so near to that neatly constructed pile of timber. >>:-(
Recipe for disaster. :o :D
-
its just as well the tanks wernt loaded , dont want a flash fire on board yet ! what type of filler are you using ? as with most of the trade sized body fillers the hardeners are universal ! is the workshop cold indoors , or have you been storing the filler in an out building as this will affect is curing time ?
-
I expect you probaly have already seen this pic, but in case you havent I have attached it. By the way when will you be trying her out on canooe lake.
-
I expect you probaly have already seen this pic, but in case you havent I have attached it. By the way when will you be trying her out on canooe lake.
Canoe Lake will be our testing area, probably in a couple of months. However, we will be ironing out the bugs in our test tank first. Excellent photo that I dont have, have you got it at a higher resolution?
-
We are at that stage in the build where nothing much seems to be happening week to week, currently filling and sanding.
(http://s3.postimage.org/20ijebgk/IMG_8233.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/20ijebgk/)
The bow section is here being filled where the vertical 'planks' were fitted, some trouble was encountered with the filler not initially going off, a combination of low storage temperatures and not enough hardener. This is being resolved by warming the filler before use, and not being so 'tight' with the hardener.
(http://s3.postimage.org/20luh0g4/IMG_8235.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/20luh0g4/)
A proposal to deter pirates <*<
(http://s3.postimage.org/20u45qx0/IMG_8262.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/20u45qx0/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/20vrp3es/IMG_8264.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/20vrp3es/)
The other part of the model needing filler is the joins between the three sections, here the bow to midships joint is being addressed. We are using brown parcel tape as a simple release agent on the side of the joint not needing filler, works so far...
The second image shows the bottom profile of the model, its underwater and doesn't need to be pretty, although what this does for the hydrodynamic efficiency of the hull, who knows :o
(http://s3.postimage.org/210qb4w4/IMG_8266.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/210qb4w4/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/314qy3fo/IMG_8268.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/314qy3fo/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/31820sf8/IMG_8272.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/31820sf8/)
It is creating a big mess all around and under the model. This calls for a big clean up, new broom etc :embarrassed:
(http://s4.postimage.org/31labkdg/IMG_8273.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/31labkdg/)
The final shot is from the bows and gives an idea how a pile of plywood sheets has started to look like an iconic Second World War vessel in little more than ten weeks. We are planning to bring the model along to the Midhurst Modellers Show at the end of this month, she may need another dust before that :-))
-
Mein Gott!!
what on earth are you lot up to??
Christening the ship with scalding hot tea (five sugars please) and then letting a crazed lumberjack loose with a heatgun so near to that neatly constructed pile of timber. >>:-(
Recipe for disaster. :o :D
In my defence, I had just come back from felling Redwoods for the next part of the build, got chased by a bear, fell down a ravine, joined the Mounties, stopped illegal liquor being smuggled into Gosport, canoed through the back woods pursued by rednecks, found a dam blocking my way, invoked the ancient forest gods to bring a flood to destroy it, this failed, so I contacted 617 squadron, got an ansaphone message "closed due to lack of interest", so went round the dam, arrived at clubhouse late to find THEY hadn't put enough hardener in the filler, hence, the heat gun :P
-
Making the Horlicks up for the 'older' members :-)
(http://s3.postimage.org/24bt04g4/IMG_8230.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/24bt04g4/)
Time for bed...
-
Wait until Robbie 'the deep' finds out that you have been wiping that stirring stick on the sails of his HMS TEMERAIRE, on the bench behind you. <*<
And I accept your excuse for the heatgun mate. Perhaps a little bit dubious about the illegal liquor being smuggled into Gosport, but the rest is somehow believable. %)
-
as unbuilt said or this filler and sanding doses make for a lot of mess
(http://s3.postimage.org/hzobve6c/DSC00880.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/hzobve6c/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/hzy93h50/DSC00879.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/hzy93h50/)
any one would think we have a dust problem
-
when you are doing a build like this dose size matter?...............well when you are quarter of an inch short of 100 inch then yes size is everthing.So when we found out that the stern of the boat was not how it should be, we had to put it right and make it a 100inch boat.
so the first part was to cut and shape a block of wood then glue to the boat
(http://s2.postimage.org/2l99ghrfo/DSC00908.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2l99ghrfo/)
then we slapped on a load of filler then made some more mess sanding this down
(http://s2.postimage.org/2layndlpg/DSC00917.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2layndlpg/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2lbdj7q5g/DSC00914.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2lbdj7q5g/)
so now we have the back of the boat looking how it should
(http://s2.postimage.org/2lcalyo10/DSC00919.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2lcalyo10/)
so do we have a 100 inch boat ? ....ER well ER... no what with all that sanding no but we have a plan
-
when you are doing a build like this dose size matter?...............well when you are quarter of an inch short of 100 inch then yes size is everthing.So when we found out that the stern of the boat was not how it should be, we had to put it right and make it a 100inch boat.
so the first part was to cut and shape a block of wood then glue to the boat
(http://s2.postimage.org/2l99ghrfo/DSC00908.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2l99ghrfo/)
then we slapped on a load of filler then made some more mess sanding this down
(http://s2.postimage.org/2layndlpg/DSC00917.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2layndlpg/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2lbdj7q5g/DSC00914.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2lbdj7q5g/)
so now we have the back of the boat looking how it should
(http://s2.postimage.org/2lcalyo10/DSC00919.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2lcalyo10/)
so do we have a 100 inch boat ? ....ER well ER... no what with all that sanding no but we have a plan
you have a plan
dun dun dun
-
We are back on the build.
First up, i wasn't happy with the bow profile compared to side views of the real ship, this coupled with some very good top views of the model on display in Malta indicated a slight change in profile would be acceptable.
(http://s3.postimage.org/29cafgdqc/IMG_8274.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/29cafgdqc/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/29cc2zq84/IMG_8275.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/29cc2zq84/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/29cfe2f7o/IMG_8279.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/29cfe2f7o/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/29ch1lrpg/IMG_8288.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/29ch1lrpg/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/29cip5478/IMG_8290.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/29cip5478/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/29cpbai6c/IMG_8438.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/29cpbai6c/)
Although one or two of the images are out of focus, I hope it gives an idea of the process.
Firstly, a plywood profile was cut out of 8mm ply, this was drilled to accept 4mm stainless pins which were drilled into the bow.
This was firstly epoxied, then secured with the green Glassfibre Repair Paste, Then filled with Marine Filler... in fairly rapid succession. The different adhesives/fillers were applied as soon as the proceeding materials had started to gel off. The bows then proceeded to generate a healthy amount of heat!
The finished bow has a far better profile and shows to good effect the excellent finish obtained with the Marine Filler ( i'm still not buying any ok2 )
-
I am ,apparently a fussy git when it comes to certain details. Hawse pipes, for example, should be fitted from hull to deck, I dont like seeing an anchor stub glued to the bow of a model, having been sheered off in a collision, leaving a stump of epoxy or cyano.
So, lets drill holes in that pristine bow :-))
(http://s3.postimage.org/29irm8bd0/IMG_8423.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/29irm8bd0/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/29iwkucuc/IMG_8424.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/29iwkucuc/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/29j1jgebo/IMG_8426.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/29j1jgebo/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/29j85lsas/IMG_8428.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/29j85lsas/)
To have a fighting chance of getting all the holes in the right place a block of timber was drilled as a pattern, this was marked with pencil lines, aligned with marks on the deck, and clamped in place. A drill then carefully did the business, until it emerged from the hull side. A brass tube was then slid into position with epoxy smeared around it, Success :-)) ( the first time and the third time, don't ask about the second time!!)
-
As with the bow profile, I felt we could improve on the stern profile, looking at photos of the original vessel being towed into Grand Harbour, it looked different. So, out with the timber block, Jelatung this time( about time we used some of it up!).
(http://s3.postimage.org/29mcm5dvo/IMG_8280.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/29mcm5dvo/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/29me9oqdg/IMG_8281.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/29me9oqdg/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/29mfx82v8/IMG_8509.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/29mfx82v8/)
Once again, Marine filler was used, giving a great finish, note that the profile of the model changes between pictures 1 and 3 as Mark sorts out the 'slight' imperfection visible on the port side of the model.
-
I have been hinting at 'plating' detail for a couple of weeks, it is usual when this happens to receive much mocking and complaints about slowing the project down, for the sake of 'pointless' decoration. However, I like pointless decoration, even on a model destined for soot, rust and gunge throughout its life!
And it was going on, no matter what :-).
I wanted to try out a technique described by David Merriman, a model sub man from the US of A, involving filler and tape to create raised plate detail, so starting small, I taped up around the hawse pipe outlet, two layers of masking tape, and applied a thin skim of filler, this was then rubbed down with the tape in situ, avoiding rubbing too much away.
(http://s3.postimage.org/29p3ue7ic/IMG_8435.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/29p3ue7ic/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/29pagjlhg/IMG_8437.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/29pagjlhg/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/29ph2ozgk/IMG_8440.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/29ph2ozgk/)
So far so good, the last picture once again shows how nice the finish of Marine Filler can be ( still not buying any...).
With the test out the way came the big one, right down the hull side, both sides...
(http://s3.postimage.org/29qxzw39g/IMG_8466.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/29qxzw39g/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/29r2yi4qs/IMG_8467.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/29r2yi4qs/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/29r69ktqc/IMG_8470.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/29r69ktqc/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/29r9knipw/IMG_8504.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/29r9knipw/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/29rb86v7o/IMG_8505.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/29rb86v7o/)
Same technique only much more filler, and tape, 32' plus that extra inch the model has grown by %% %%.
This time a different approach was forced on us, it was getting late, so, off with the tape as the filler gelled off....................................TBC
-
That's a technique I haven't seen before. It does look impressive.
Can I ask what material you used and if such a length will crack or break off.
Watching with interest.
Ken
-
Agreed Tug --- Kenny, different technique, never saw it myself either.
Recently I glued 0.25 mm plasticard "plating" to my 1:72 scale HMS RODNEY. Reasonable finish. See here:
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=27664.50
As both models belong in the same Team, it will be fascinating to compare the merits (or de-merits) of each technique. But we must bear in mind that RODNEY will not suffer quite such a pounding that OHIO will sustain during pyrotechnic displays.
Watch this space ........... %)
I'm also in full agreement with the addition of the plating effect on the OHIO. :-))
-
That's a technique I haven't seen before. It does look impressive.
Can I ask what material you used and if such a length will crack or break off.
Watching with interest.
Ken
We are using bog standard car body filler, available from any car accessory shop. The tape is 2" masking tape laid two strips thick to give a bit of depth. This is removed either when the filler has been sanded down, as with the hawse pipe, or when the filler becomes 'green', just before hardening off, when it can still be trimmed with a knife. So far it is sticking like the proverbial, as this is how it would be used for automobile repair work. Next week we will be trying a variation on the theme, laying the tape to represent one side of the plate only, the filler will fair into the hull on the other side of the 'plate', smoothing away to nothing.
Ultimately, this effect will help when it comes to weathering the hull, as washes of rust and chipping can be applied to the plate edges to greater effect than to a smooth hull.
Thanks for the interest...
-
Okay,back to the build.
Yesterday, in an all fired rush to prepare the scruffy looking, dust covered heap for the Midhurst Modellers Show this coming weekend (27th Feb, The Grange Centre, Midhurst, Darkest Southern England.) we tidied, vacuumed and sanded.
1) Pumps fitted, these were bolted in the case of the 'pump out' pump, and siliconed in in the case of the 'pump in' pump. The 'in' pump is flush with the bottom of the hull and fitted into a 2" dia hole. The 'out' pump is raised off the tank bottom by about 3mm and secured with stainless M4 machine screws.
(http://s3.postimage.org/2mqaa1mys/IMG_8525.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2mqaa1mys/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/2mqf8nog4/IMG_8526.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2mqf8nog4/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/2mqgw70xw/IMG_8529.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2mqgw70xw/)
These pumps are Whale Industries marine bilge pumps and will pump up to 50 litres a minute, if you ever want a firefighting monitor pump, these are the kiddies :-))
2) The rudder is next, this is loosely based on the Schilling Rudder concept, with a wedge at the trailing edge to deflect water sideways similar to a Becker Rudder, but without any moving parts. This started life as a commercially available rudder which then had a copper blade soldered to it using Plumbers Solder, hammered to shape, and filled with Glassfibre Repair Paste before being trimmed down with various sanding implements :D
(http://s4.postimage.org/2g48bdeck/IMG_8532.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2g48bdeck/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/2g49ywquc/IMG_8535.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2g49ywquc/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/2g4d9zftw/IMG_8537.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2g4d9zftw/)
3) Push Bars, these are for the two Destroyers to locate into, as they come along side for the last part of our display. The bar is 4mm Stainless Steel, the tubes are redundant 8mm dia propshaft outers and are drilled through the model BELOW the lower hull, but through 3/4" of timber sides hanging below the flat bottom.
These bars are removable for transport and for playing down the lake on a sunday. Only one has been fashioned so far.
(http://s4.postimage.org/2g6930o2s/IMG_8541.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2g6930o2s/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/2g6e1mpk4/IMG_8542.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2g6e1mpk4/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/2g6fp621w/IMG_8545.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2g6fp621w/)
The Destroyers have an aproximate beam of 5 1/2" and will have a pin protruding below their hulls at the centreline. The 'vee' in the rod has been placed at 3 1/2" from the hull side to 'stand off' the destroyers slightly from Ohios sides, allowing them a little manouvering ability and to protect their much nicer detail work from damage....Thats the plan anyway %%
Anyway, see some of you at Midhurst :-))
-
Todays jobs, add a bit more plating detail to the bow. This time I filled up against one side of tape only, above and below the existing plate line.
(http://s4.postimage.org/221iq8v1g/IMG_8677.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/221iq8v1g/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/221m1bk10/IMG_8678.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/221m1bk10/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/221pce90k/IMG_8710.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/221pce90k/)
I am looking forward to the painting and weathering process with this plating detail to work on, not yet though 8)
Next a bit of detail to the bow bulwarks.
(http://s4.postimage.org/222fszsx0/IMG_8688.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/222fszsx0/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/222j42hwk/IMG_8692.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/222j42hwk/)
A bit of flattened tube and a hole to fit...
The next job entailed fitting 'through routes' for the cables that will serve the underwater pyrotechnic effects. These have to run from under the hull to 'on deck' terminals.
(http://s4.postimage.org/223jhw4ro/IMG_8693.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/223jhw4ro/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/223q41iqs/IMG_8695.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/223q41iqs/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/223rrkv8k/IMG_8697.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/223rrkv8k/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/223v2nk84/IMG_8699.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/223v2nk84/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/2241osy78/IMG_8703.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2241osy78/)
And with that lot fitted, today was finished off with the first coat of cellulose dope, thinned 2 parts thinner and 1 part dope.
-
COMING ALONG WELL :-)) :-))
DO YOU WANT TO LET ME LOSE IN THE WEATHRING ON HER? {-) %% %% %% %%
-
After a short hiatus ( I could have shown 2 weeks of cellulose dope drying, but even I sometimes know when to draw the line!! ) we are back with some new photos of the build.
(http://s1.postimage.org/wcq2l138/Ohio_paint1_013.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/wcq2l138/)
First off, a waterline marker, home made, cheers Jim :-)) Consisting of ball races for wheels, vertical bar in aluminum and a hardwood block drilled to take the vertical bar and horizontal pencil.
(http://s1.postimage.org/wdevn8hw/Ohio_paint1_014.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/wdevn8hw/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/wdi6pxhg/Ohio_paint1_015.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/wdi6pxhg/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/wdlhsmh0/Ohio_paint1_018.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/wdlhsmh0/)
The next three images are meself and John painting the bottom and deck of the model with red oxide primer, this particular one is from the car accessory guys at Halfords. It dries quickly and is pretty tough when on the model.
(http://s1.postimage.org/wedlxiv8/Ohio_paint1_023.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/wedlxiv8/)
The next image is a close bow shot and shows the plating detail to fairly good effect, its a pity that, so far, only a small part of this effect has been painted, just visible in the red paint.
(http://s1.postimage.org/wf7dlrr8/Ohio_paint1_019.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/wf7dlrr8/)
Final image of the night. With the decks red oxide and below the waterline the same, it was time to call it a night. Pay close attention to the first stages of the hull painting because I will be incorporating a 'weathering' effect into this stage that is both simple to do and looks effective. No clues yet though...
Next job will be the plumbing for the ballast pumps, as the plan is to tank test the model on the 27th March %% %%
-
Good to see and hear from this project once again. :-))
Is it just a coincidence that when you float test her, there will be a 19th century full size beam engine pumping station operational and on hand just in case ........................................................................ O0
Look forward to learning some weathering techniques in the future. ok2
-
Is it just a coincidence that when you float test her, there will be a 19th century full size beam engine pumping station operational and on hand just in case ........................................................................ O0
The Pumphouse open day is purely co-incidental, however, the threat of burnt burger and chocolate cake may have some bearing on the launch date O0
-
Burnt burger and chocolate cake ............. well worth a visit then. ;)
Keep at it guys, you are doing a brilliant job. :-))
-
mmmmm burnt burger and chocolate cake
(http://s4.postimage.org/31m67g12c/simpson_homer.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/31m67g12c/)
-
Progress to date.
The model is now painted all over, almost, and is nearly ready for its first dunking this coming Sunday.
(http://s4.postimage.org/ixzwc49w/IMG_9284.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ixzwc49w/)
Plumbing is being installed for the two pumps. The 'in' pump has to be fitted with a 'U bend' to prevent unwanted water entering the model when afloat. These impeller pumps are open to through flow of water at all times and the outlet pipe is perilously near to the load waterline, hence the 'U bend'.
(http://s4.postimage.org/iyn1uz6s/IMG_9297.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/iyn1uz6s/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/iyopebok/IMG_9299.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/iyopebok/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/iza7du3o/IMG_9300.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/iza7du3o/)
Hopefully the copper pipe can be hidden in the general deck clutter of a typical big WWII Tanker.
(http://s4.postimage.org/izu1u010/IMG_9317.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/izu1u010/)
Final image today, the hull plating effect with paint on.....by eck, it works ok2
-
QUESTION... What colour would the decks be on a WWII Tanker that has recently been painted grey over its hull sides and superstructure??? I would assume that the Red Oxide finish would be like a beacon to roving enemy aircraft. Would the grey continue over the horizontal parts also, or would the shipyard/dockyard still have the luxury of deck paint to hand??
-
The plating effect looks spot-on. Good to know it works so well!
Andy
-
QUESTION... What colour would the decks be on a WWII Tanker that has recently been painted grey over its hull sides and superstructure??? I would assume that the Red Oxide finish would be like a beacon to roving enemy aircraft. Would the grey continue over the horizontal parts also, or would the shipyard/dockyard still have the luxury of deck paint to hand??
Given the history of the fast requisitioning of the OHIO in Scotland by the Navy Department, I would imagine she was painted all-over grey, with perhaps a slightly darker shade for the decks etc.
I have seen images of the funnel ok2 which demonstrates the speed of the paint job. The Texaco logo can still be faintly seen under the rushed grey paint job.
It was well known by both the Allied and Axis powers that this vessel would take part in one of the most strategic convoys of WWII, and that she most probably (and did) come in for undivded attention from the many attacking forces. To this end she must have been considered as 'sacrificial' so any elaborate paint job would have meant time and money ill spent.
As it happened though, it was probably only her paint job that kept her in one piece and able to enter Grand Harbour in the epic way she did. %)
All model photos that I have seen depict her in overall grey. :-))
Hope this is of help.
Yarpie.
-
For what it's worth. My father was an engineer on Standard Oil and Anglo American tankers in the North Atlantic and Malta service during the war. Right at the end of the war he took a few photos on his, then, current vessel, Seminole. The shot is looking aft from the center house. You can see the distinct shade difference between the vertical house walls and the deck. He said the vessel was overall grey with a red oxide deck. I've been building a model of it and this is the scheme I was going to follow. You'll notice the 20mm turrets on either side of the aft house. There was a 40 mm on the foc'sale. Also notice the stack colours.
John
-
................. You can see the distinct shade difference between the vertical house walls and the deck. He said the vessel was overall grey with a red oxide deck................................... John
Dubious camouflage pattern for wartime, except perhaps for operations in the Red Sea. %)
(Please forgive the observation John, couldn't resist it). :embarrassed: :embarrassed: ;)
-
:embarrassed:.... a few observations...??
1. the vessel is not close to land
2. she appears as lightly loaded with the list to port......
3. she has all of her deck mounted fuel tank vents open...... >>:-( ...this is not normal............ :police:
Derek
-
:embarrassed:.... a few observations...??
1. the vessel is not close to land
2. she appears as lightly loaded with the list to port......
3. she has all of her deck mounted fuel tank vents open...... >>:-( ...this is not normal............ :police:
Derek
She is in the Bay of Biscayne. In ballast. My father said there were canvass tube extensions to put over the open vents and run up cabling to a height well above the catwalk to prevent ingress of water in rough weather. Don't forget, you went to Britain loaded and came back empty in the war.
John
-
Excellent deck clutter reference, thanks for the input so far, guys. I may need to do a bit of research into the speed of the re-equipping tha SS Ohio experienced when she arrived here from the U.S of A. The information may simply not be available and I will have to go with the best 'average' I can find from a number of vessels. Will seek out colour footage on my Roland Smith DVD tonight, see if I can glean any clues.
-
For more reference, here are two other shots of Seminole taken on the same day.
John
-
More excellent photos.
regardless of colour, I note that the decks seem to have a gloss sheen to them, while the superstructure is flat matt. this could be down to water across the deck, but i am not sure. Any ex tanker people out there can confirm gloss decks? ( also flues or funnels? This is a question that MUST be resolved....local team humour >>:-()
-
A few entires ago I responded to the open vents and vent bags that were installed in rough weather. I've found a couple of references to these canvas bags. they were also used to assist in venting holds in ballast before venting fans and similar apparatus were in use. The Seminole was a 1925 vessel.
The first reference is from the book "TANKER PRACTICE" by G.A.B. King,, "The construction, operation and maintenance of tankers".
(http://s2.postimage.org/gyjsnbxg/windsails.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/gyjsnbxg/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/gyn3q0x0/windsails_2.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/gyn3q0x0/)
The next reference is from a web site giving personal recollections of individuals involved in WWII. This one was deck crew on a tanker :
http://www.bbc.co.uk/ww2peopleswar/stories/79/a2152379.shtml
A quote from the write up:
"When a vessel is fully loaded with aviation spirit it is well known that a torpedo hit results in a blue flash. When it clears there is absolutely nothing left. An even worse situation presents itself when you have fully discharged the cargo as you are then a floating gas bomb and it is essential that you fit windsails to every tank to discharge the gas and that was the position we were in."
From the following site: http://www.hnsa.org/doc/merchant/prelim/part3.htm
"In cleaning tanks by hand, the process consists usually of steaming the tank for several hours and then raising the tank hatches and washing the tanks with a fire hose, removing the water and refuse oil during the washing operation. "Wind sails" are then rigged to ventilate the tanks. Wind sails are canvas air ducts with large flaps on either side of an opening at the top. The flaps catch and direct the air through the opening at the top and downward through the duct and into the cargo tank. "
John
-
i would put whatever paint looks best and if at a show or something someone like an x crew member or definitely knows says it should be a diffrent colour re paint it
-
More excellent photos.
regardless of colour, I note that the decks seem to have a gloss sheen to them, while the superstructure is flat matt. this could be down to water across the deck, but i am not sure. Any ex tanker people out there can confirm gloss decks? ( also flues or funnels? This is a question that MUST be resolved....local team humour >>:-()
In 30 years at sea I've never seen gloss decks, most likely to be the result of water, (and probably an oil sheen!), but accommodation, certainly all I have know is painted gloss finish.......HOWEVER....... that is all much later than what is in the picture...
-
Two images of different OHIO models.
Both sporting Henry Fords choice of grey ............................................................. O0
-
knowing that the red oxide primer IS POURUS i would advise sealing with a varnish or laquer of some form , otherwise the primer will eventually part company with the model !
-
that would still look good in the weathering department
-
{-) for a 12 year old you have a lot to say
-
The day dawned clear and bright, there is only so much talk you can talk, the time had come.......to get Ohio wet!
(http://s3.postimage.org/hyrc3mbo/Tank_Test_003.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/hyrc3mbo/)
Meself and Mark, preparing to test float the model in our 'Giants Bath'.
(http://s3.postimage.org/hz7vh39g/Tank_Test_008.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/hz7vh39g/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/hzcu34qs/Tank_Test_009.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/hzcu34qs/)
With the unusual bottom profile there was the chance of air pockets. the model was initially bow light, resulting in a nose up attitude which trapped air in the bows. This was soon released by pushing the bows down and allowing the air to escape out of the stern ( I am somewhat of an expert on this manouever O0).
(http://s3.postimage.org/i06lrdms/Tank_Test_011.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/i06lrdms/)
"There, There, I wont let them nasty Display Team types hurt you......Thats my job!!
The model floated steady and stable, if a little bit 'light'. About 8lbs of lead was needed against the forward bulkhead of the centre section to level the model off. We ( I ) was in such a hurry when we plated the bows that no ballast was built in to the , now sealed, structure.
(http://s3.postimage.org/i3oalr5w/Tank_Test_015.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/i3oalr5w/)
Pump running, these are 50 litre a minute pumps, so the waterline quickly reduced.
(http://s3.postimage.org/i436fvlw/Tank_Test_017.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/i436fvlw/)
At half full, I was ready to disconnect the pump in case of disaster...
(http://s3.postimage.org/i5096thg/Tank_Test_019.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/i5096thg/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/i53k9ih0/Tank_Test_020.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/i53k9ih0/)
With the tank full I decided to keep pumping till it was overflowing, at this stage the model was still afloat :-))
(http://s3.postimage.org/i5gskaf8/Tank_Test_030.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/i5gskaf8/)
The first pump out was also uneventful, however, the discharge pipe will have to be redesigned, the Destroyers wont want that blasting across their decks!!
(http://s3.postimage.org/i62ajsuc/Tank_Test_036.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/i62ajsuc/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/i68wp6tg/Tank_Test_040.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/i68wp6tg/)
Next pump down with the control box fitted, this will need raising about an inch or so, it was starting to get its tootsies wet!
(http://s3.postimage.org/i6sr5cqs/Tank_Test_043.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/i6sr5cqs/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/i710u37o/Tank_Test_041.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/i710u37o/)
No drain hole fitted yet, so emptied through the bolt holes.
Cup of tea and post mortem {-)
Well, that bit works :-))
-
so the next test is with all of the electronics fitted and under running conditions ? looking very impressive
-
how about posting more pics of the day then unbuilt ? as it was a nice day for the club and the pump house :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
bat44
-
yes more pics and also can you make them larger as well for us old ones can see them more better
-
yes more pics and also can you make them larger as well for us old ones can see them more better
Try clicking on the photos, it makes them bigger. :-))
-
You should be fast asleep resting Dicky!!!!!! <*< <*< <*< <*<
Geoff
-
Thats all I've been doing since Friday Geoff. I am going to try again now. :-))
-
:-)Hello Shipmates
Yesterday would have been the wrong day to tell you that I
was an ordinary seaman on S.S OHIO in the Pedestal Convoy
August 1942
for the last 62 years am anchored at Blyth
Northumberland
-
Hi atlam,
that could almost be read backwards as .............MALTA. :-))
Wonderful to hear from you sir, and I hope that you are well. April the first or not, nobody would joke about an event such as you endured all those years ago.
Perhaps, if you have the time and inclination, you would do us the honour of relating some of your proud recollections on this thread.
I'm sure that the Moderators wouldn't mind as its a very rare opportunity indeed.
And perhaps you could clear up a little conundrum that we have regarding the colour of the OHIO's decks during that fateful and epic journey. (I know that you didn't really have time to study the deck colour then, as there were one or two other distractions going on at the time). O0
Once again, its an honour to hear from you.
Stay well.
Yarpie.
-
Thank you for your interest. I hope we do this period in history justice with our forthcoming Pedestal Dispay. I am looking forward to the next stage of the build....slapping grey paint all over the model. Easier than doing the same to a 515' Tanker :-)
-
Thank you for your interest. I hope we do this period in history justice with our forthcoming Pedestal Dispay. I am looking forward to the next stage of the build....slapping grey paint all over the model. Easier than doing the same to a 515' Tanker :-)
i helped him with that post :-)) :-) %% 8) 8) 8) O0 O0 O0 O0 O0
-
Okay, it floats, on with the next part...
The drawings I have depict Ohio 'as built'. I now need to modify the drawings to depict her as she entered malta in August 42.
(http://s3.postimage.org/5lsh9ipw/Steam_open_day_etc_268.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5lsh9ipw/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/5lu4sv7o/Steam_open_day_etc_271.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5lu4sv7o/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/5lvsc7pg/Steam_open_day_etc_273.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5lvsc7pg/)
The drawings are to a scale of 1/96 and will need enlarging, however I have chosen to draw the various fitments at this scale. Using the various images of Ohio as she approached and entered her destination, I have managed to locate the positions of the forward 3" gun platform, the aft 5" gun platform, the 40mm Bofors gun just in front of the 5" mount, and four of the six 20mm Oerlikons. Two flank the 40mm mount and two are on the outer bridge wings on a platform added, I assume, for wartime service. The last two 20mm Oerlikons are proving a bit of a mystery. I cannot locate them in the photographs and I believe existing models are inaccurate in their depiction of the ship. Help!
-
Help received, many thanks.
Alan...
-
Onwards and upwards...
The forward superstructure is next.Scaling up from the plans at 1/96, I produced a card template of the lower bridge deck, then offered this up to the model and tweaked accordingly. As I worked up deck by deck, I removed parts from this original template as the decks become smaller, cutting the 1/8" ply decks as I went.
(http://s4.postimage.org/2pwejlmg4/battlestar_028.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2pwejlmg4/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/2pwhuobfo/battlestar_029.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2pwhuobfo/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/2pwji7nxg/battlestar_030.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2pwji7nxg/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/2pwmtacx0/battlestar_031.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2pwmtacx0/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/2pwogtpes/battlestar_032.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2pwogtpes/)
Then its offer it up, balanced on boxes, to see how it looks. The upper deck gun platforms do not match any other models I have seen of Ohio, as I believe these previous models represent her 'post Pedestal' while she served as a Stores Depot ship in Valetta Harbour. So, apart from the obvious deviations from scale to facilitate her special 'functions', I am still hoping for a good, scale representation of the ship at the time of the Pedestal convoy.
(http://s4.postimage.org/2pysjjo4k/battlestar_033.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2pysjjo4k/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/2pyvumd44/battlestar_035.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2pyvumd44/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/2pyxi5plw/battlestar_037.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2pyxi5plw/)
-
:-)Hello Shipmates
Yesterday would have been the wrong day to tell you that I
was an ordinary seaman on S.S OHIO in the Pedestal Convoy
August 1942
for the last 62 years am anchored at Blyth
Northumberland
-
Sunday, and time for the rear superstructure decks. These are cut out of 1/8" ply sheet and are scaled up by 1.4 from the drawings ( and sometimes tweaked to fit the hull where 'variations' occur >>:-(). From the front of the vessel we have a 3" gun mount offset to port on the bows, two 20mm mounts on the upper bridge wings, plus the decks below that, aft is the boat deck with two 20mm mounts followed by the 40mm Bofors mount ( square ) and finally,the circular 5" mount at the stern.
(http://s4.postimage.org/33z5tgdgk/ohio_decks_001.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/33z5tgdgk/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/33z94j2g4/ohio_decks_006.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/33z94j2g4/)
On the port side, outboard is one of the 'Destroyer Catchers', and visible on the table on the right of the first image is one of the control boxes for another merchant ship.
(http://s4.postimage.org/341lgxrms/ohio_decks_008.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/341lgxrms/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/3428mgmjo/ohio_decks_010.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/3428mgmjo/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/342vrzhgk/ohio_decks_011.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/342vrzhgk/)
It may not be running yet, but there is smoke from the flue! A home made 'Jim Special' smoke unit running at 12v and about 2.3 Amps. Notice the difference between the 22mm copper tube only, and the ( Patent Pending :-)) ) Pringles funnel as far as smoke volume is concerned. The smoke seems to linger in the tube, producing what appears to be greater volume of smoke.
(http://s4.postimage.org/344o9y0pw/ohio_decks_014.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/344o9y0pw/)
Please note; other potato based snacks are available...........however, you try sticking a Monster Munch bag over your heated copper flue and see what happens.
Cheers, Pringles :-)) ( Not keen on the Salt and Vinegar flavour though, wrong colour for the funnel......)
-
monster munch bags over your copper flue pipe , bet we all know what you used to do at school ! nice to see your model progressing so well :-))
-
OK we have planed it talked about it now comes the time to make it yes the front superstructure.The bigest problem was how to build with a camber and a curved front end.First we clued a 5mm spacer across the front access in the superstructure. then a big lump of filler is put over the Deck then the new ply wood Deck is put on top of this than bolted down to form the camber of the deck
(http://s2.postimage.org/ewyfhnms/12_001.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ewyfhnms/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/ex8cpqlg/12_003.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ex8cpqlg/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/exbnsfl0/12_005.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/exbnsfl0/)
this was left to go of at this point it was time to put the kettle for a cup of tea and a donut. With the filler gone of a quick clean up and see if it work out the way hoped
(http://s4.postimage.org/1f7rbvzhg/12_007.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1f7rbvzhg/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1f7szfbz8/12_008.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1f7szfbz8/)
-
with the filler cleaned up and yes it had work and so we had a good base to start from
(http://s4.postimage.org/1f9i6b690/12_011.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1f9i6b690/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1f9tr2lpg/12_012.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1f9tr2lpg/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1fa0d7zok/12_013.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1fa0d7zok/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1fa6zddno/12_014.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1fa6zddno/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1fb2ekz1g/12_017.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1fb2ekz1g/)
with this part done then comes the comins for the superstructure was added
(http://s4.postimage.org/1fbcbt204/12_020.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1fbcbt204/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1fbnwkhgk/12_022.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1fbnwkhgk/)
to help with the next deck two blocks of wood were clued at the ends
(http://s4.postimage.org/1fc63haw4/12_023.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1fc63haw4/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/1fcrlgtb8/12_024.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1fcrlgtb8/)
then this was clued in postion so far so good. Now comes the good bit this part needs to have a camber as well as a curve and also to be part of the removerball superstructure
-
this was done by using six bits of wood and a bit of ply
(http://s2.postimage.org/f4rkunl0/12_039.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/f4rkunl0/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/f4y701k4/12_040.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/f4y701k4/)
this was all clued up and left to dry over the next couple of days so fingers crossed lets hope this has worked
-
Cheers for filling in for me on the photos, Batboy. Good, clear images. Plug for donuts also, brain food ;)
-
The build goes on...
Next we have the bridge decks, these have a slight camber to them ( a quarter of an inch higher down the centreline of the model ) as detailed in one of Bat 44s posts. Now we had to start piling deck upon deck. This proved problematic as we had great difficulty measuring a vertical 'plum line' for the proceeding decks.
(http://s3.postimage.org/2zoxwhvpg/IMG_0843.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2zoxwhvpg/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/2zp2v3x6s/IMG_0846.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2zp2v3x6s/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/2zp666m6c/IMG_0847.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2zp666m6c/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/2zpb4snno/IMG_0848.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2zpb4snno/)
This deck had to be removable and provide the ( stiff ) structure off of which the upper decks would be profiled. Assembled with 5 minute epoxy it did the job, once unstuck from the not very protective masking tape.
(http://s3.postimage.org/2zq1le7k4/IMG_0851.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2zq1le7k4/)
The next deck was soaked in boiling water and clamped to dry over three days.
-
Next deck up, out with the Jelatung, best carving wood there is, and hoarded with the intention of using it on the next project all the time! Well, this is the next project..
(http://s3.postimage.org/2zr1z7uf8/IMG_0900.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2zr1z7uf8/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/2zra8wkw4/IMG_0903.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2zra8wkw4/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/2zrdjz9vo/IMG_0907.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2zrdjz9vo/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/2zrgv1yv8/IMG_0909.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2zrgv1yv8/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/2zrlto0ck/IMG_0910.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2zrlto0ck/)
The fore and aft parts were trimmed to fit first, then epoxied into place. 1/8" ply was then epoxied in as sides followed by 1/4" spruce stringers along the upper edge.
The upper deck was then epoxied and clamped into position.
Finally, the navigating bridge was assembled, this is rectangular, so could be assembled with cyano glue first, then beefed up with epoxy when assembled.
The diagonal timber is forcing the bridge front back into shape after I clamped all the curve out of it!!
(http://s3.postimage.org/2zt9d0i4k/IMG_0951.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2zt9d0i4k/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/2zthmp8lg/IMG_0952.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2zthmp8lg/)
The reason for the 'lift shaft' running up through the bridge is to allow an 'Arm/Safe switch and indicator lights to be fitted from the control box below to the bridge above. This allows our Safety people to arm or disarm the model quickly without having to open any hatches, something I would advise anyone considering pyrotechnics or fire effects on a model, to fit.
-
Miscellaneous bit first, suppiled by a fellow club member, giant phosphor bronze washers now used as load spreaders wher the hull sections bolt together.
(http://s3.postimage.org/2zvlpf7b8/IMG_0898.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2zvlpf7b8/)
Next, with the bridge nearing completion it is on with the aft boat deck. This is where the radio equipment is that controls the models standard functions, this will be splash proof as I feel the model may get 'splashed' occasionally ;)
To aid construction of this first deck I have decided to raise a submarine style hatch off of the deck of the model, pictured are the 1/4" plywood surround and the 6mm acrylic lid.
(http://s3.postimage.org/2zwpebj5w/IMG_0953.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2zwpebj5w/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/2zwucxkn8/IMG_0954.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2zwucxkn8/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/2zx2mmb44/IMG_0955.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2zx2mmb44/)
These will form the 'locator' for the hatch. 10mm plywood will form the lower part of the hatch, this will be bonded to the 1/8" upper boat deck, finally the sides will be fitted when this is all secure. It makes a change not having to worry one jot about the weight of the component parts :-)
(http://s3.postimage.org/2zxrfoiis/IMG_0957.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2zxrfoiis/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/2zxt37v0k/IMG_0963.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2zxt37v0k/)
-
One bit leads to another bit. The build of the boat deck relied on a number of parts completing at once. This didn't quite happen, so the pioneering 'measure, cut, stick, measure, cut, stick' build technique was interupted by donut and coffee down time!
(http://s2.postimage.org/2drqntilg/IMG_1005.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2drqntilg/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2drsbcv38/IMG_1006.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2drsbcv38/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2drtyw7l0/IMG_1007.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2drtyw7l0/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2dryxi92c/IMG_1008.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2dryxi92c/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2ds3w4ajo/IMG_1009.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2ds3w4ajo/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2ds8uqc10/IMG_1010.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2ds8uqc10/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2dsai9ois/IMG_1011.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2dsai9ois/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2dsfgvq04/IMG_1012.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2dsfgvq04/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2dskfhrhg/IMG_1013.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2dskfhrhg/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2dsm313z8/IMG_1017.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2dsm313z8/)
I think the pictures are self explanitary, the model is, I believe the new term is "under engineered", I prefer "bombproof". Although that is yet to be tested %%
-
While waiting for glue to dry, I put the funnel supporting structure together, including the engine room skylight. This acts as ventilation for the installed funnel smoke unit.
(http://s3.postimage.org/2tlpwj6ro/IMG_1018.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2tlpwj6ro/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/2tlwiokqs/IMG_1020.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2tlwiokqs/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/2tm9qzcp0/IMG_1021.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2tm9qzcp0/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/2tmd221ok/IMG_1022.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2tmd221ok/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/2tmi0o35w/IMG_1023.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2tmi0o35w/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/2tmmza4n8/IMG_1025.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2tmmza4n8/)
-
boat is taking shape nicely , you be careful with all those donut breaks or the boat might not be the only thing taking shape !
-
Been looking at my copy of "Malta Convoy" (Shankland & Hunter, 1961) p 189 " the 6-inch gun at the bows twisted in its mounting and was put out of action." "On the bridge, the bofors had been in action for nearly half an hour".. ( Gunner Billings shhots down a Ju 87 which crashes into the side of the ship) Do you have a copy of this book?
-
Also p 201 " Another bomber came screaming down towards the OHIO fro the starboard beam. The lower bridge oerlikon opened up ...... I bet it's hidden by the tug's white funnel in the "entering harbour" photo.(Can't see a 6" on the foredeck though - wonder of that's a misprint?).
-
I dont have that book, however, I believe the fit of weapons is as follows;
3" gun on a raised platform offset to port on the focsle.
Two single 20mm Oerlikons port and starboard on the fwd upper bridge wings.
A single 40mm Bofors gun (probably an early land based mount) aft of the funnel in a high box shaped mounting.
Two single 20mm Oerlikons mounted port and starboard just forward and below the Bofors gun.
A single 5" low angle mount at the stern, on a large circular mount.
There are listed two more 20mm Oerlikons mounted somewhere on the ship, other models show a single gun mounted on the upper bridge deck starboard aft, however none of the photographs support this. We have spoken to an ex-crewmember, now a fellow mayhemmer, who remembers them being mounted directly to the deck, port and starboard, at the foreward part of the aft boat deck. All the images so far seen are jumbled in this area and difficult to make out, however, that is where I am anticipating mounting the last pair of guns.
-
All hands to the pumps!!
Tonight we were working on the aft superstructure sides, 1/8" ply epoxied on....
(http://s3.postimage.org/lh533yh0/ohio_bridge_etc_002.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/lh533yh0/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/lha1pzyc/ohio_bridge_etc_006.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/lha1pzyc/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/lhf0c1fo/ohio_bridge_etc_007.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/lhf0c1fo/)
Flash Trays for the various pyrotechnic effects. These were mocked up in card and will be passed on to our local metalworker/welder who is up for the job and a fellow pyromaniac to boot!
(http://s3.postimage.org/livxj58k/ohio_bridge_etc_001.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/livxj58k/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/liz8lu84/ohio_bridge_etc_003.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/liz8lu84/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/lj477vpg/ohio_bridge_etc_005.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/lj477vpg/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/ljcgwm6c/ohio_bridge_etc_004.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ljcgwm6c/)
And the first of the bridge wing bulwarks, epoxied and superglued into position. This is the point that inconsistencies are showing up in the positioning of decks (my fault) resulting in someone (me) having to chop off a part to reposition next time <:(
(http://s3.postimage.org/lm21m3b8/ohio_bridge_etc_011.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/lm21m3b8/)
So at the end of a productive night, its getting closer to the water, just a bit :-))
(http://s3.postimage.org/lmquoapw/ohio_bridge_etc_010.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/lmquoapw/)
-
Another night of activity resulted in a lot of mess. I was on filler duty. The aft superstructure had already been clad in 1/8" ply, however not at the 'corners'. Too tight for the ply. Eay fix, filler. I hate filler, this particular brand goes off with a slight tackiness to it. However, as long as you are cautious sanding down ( I use coarse grade Permagrit tools) and dont apply too much pressure, the material cuts down fine without clogging the tool.
(http://s2.postimage.org/2rtkuxbqc/IMG_1105.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2rtkuxbqc/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2rtmigo84/IMG_1108.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2rtmigo84/)
Meanwhile, next door the bridge wings were being worked on, this has to be a 'measure, cut and stick' process for each part, as small inaccuracies are creeping in to the build and the parts are becoming more bespoke as the build progresses!
(http://s2.postimage.org/2ruga4x44/IMG_1106.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2ruga4x44/)
There goes my Cyano again ;)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2ruojtnl0/IMG_1109.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2ruojtnl0/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2rvna3xyc/IMG_1110.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2rvna3xyc/)
The two blocks on top of the bridge are not part of the ship, they will be used as formers for the gun tubs on the bridge wings. These are going to be laminated from two layers of thin cardboard, glued and doped. Its a pyro boat, why not build it out of cardboard? :}
-
alan did you get the gun i left it on ohio
-
alan did you get the gun i left it on ohio
Gun received, thank you very much,
Alan..
-
Last night was bridge work.... we need a funnel , so I took on that task. Mostly built out of 5mm balsa sheet. The first horizontal part was out of boxwood, all other balsa frames were measured off of this first part and glued in situ, ensuring everything was square as I worked up the funnel. The funnel cap is 5mm ply with a 1.5mm ply addition underneath this part where I screwed up and didn't make it wide enough for the job!!
(http://s3.postimage.org/35dtzrglg/Ohio_funnel_084.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/35dtzrglg/)
Jims smoke unit, sitting comfortably above the splash proof hatch.
(http://s3.postimage.org/35ec6oa10/Ohio_funnel_085.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/35ec6oa10/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/35ekgd0hw/Ohio_funnel_086.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/35ekgd0hw/)
Dereks very effective ships boats awaiting securing to the model.
(http://s3.postimage.org/35f5ycix0/Ohio_funnel_087.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/35f5ycix0/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/35fe819dw/Ohio_funnel_088.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/35fe819dw/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/35fo59cck/Ohio_funnel_089.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/35fo59cck/)
The funnel will be clad with thin timber, either plywood strips or spruce strips, depending on what I have to hand. I may have to sleeve the funnel internally to avoid any heat damage from the smoke unit.
Helen and Mark have been working on the bridge bulwarks etc. Yesterday mark was busy working on some sort of Flash Gordon hat that he purchased at Alfold on sunday, leaving Helen to continue with the bridge work.
(http://s3.postimage.org/35geluw90/Ohio_funnel_090.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/35geluw90/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/35gg9e8qs/Ohio_funnel_091.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/35gg9e8qs/)
Standing back, its starting to look very 'tanker' like. A good nights work..
(http://s3.postimage.org/35gv58d6s/Ohio_funnel_094.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/35gv58d6s/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/35gwsrpok/Ohio_funnel_097.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/35gwsrpok/)
Sorry, it wasn't a Flash Gordon helmet, it was a Springer Tug. Easy mistake :} :}
-
<*< <*< <*< <*< <*< ;D ;D ;D ;D :P :P :P :P :P
-
Funnel....this has been clad with obeche strip of varying thicknesses, sanded and filled. The funnel cap is layers of ply and the little platform to the front of the funnel is 0.8mm ply.
(http://s3.postimage.org/2810vsc1w/IMG_1257.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2810vsc1w/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/28146v11g/IMG_1258.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/28146v11g/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/28195h2is/IMG_1278.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/28195h2is/)
-
Gun Tubs.... These are assembled using 3mm ply for the bases, and a combination of 1.5mm and 0.8mm ply for the armoured sides. The thinner ply where needed as it bends easily. The supports under the Bofors mount (the square one) came from the club broom. Hopefully nobody will notice that it is 2" shorter than it was last week :}
(http://s3.postimage.org/282b6u1vo/IMG_1260.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/282b6u1vo/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/282hszfus/IMG_1261.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/282hszfus/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/282l424uc/IMG_1263.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/282l424uc/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/282q2o6bo/IMG_1264.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/282q2o6bo/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/282rq7itg/IMG_1265.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/282rq7itg/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/282tdqvb8/IMG_1269.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/282tdqvb8/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/282yccwsk/IMG_1270.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/282yccwsk/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/2834yiaro/IMG_1271.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2834yiaro/)
We are still arguing about the final placement of the aft 20mm gun tubs, reference is painfully thin on the subject and it may be time for an 'executive best guess'.
-
Bridge detail... coming along nicely. Most of the difficult work is hiding the inaccuracies we built in over 2 months ago... they are starting to show up when the bulwarks are being attached. A supreme effort is taking place to hide these %% {:-{ >>:-( <*< ups.
(http://s3.postimage.org/285klzoxw/IMG_1272.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/285klzoxw/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/285r852x0/IMG_1273.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/285r852x0/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/285w6r4ec/IMG_1274.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/285w6r4ec/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/2864gfuv8/IMG_1275.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2864gfuv8/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/286g17abo/IMG_1277.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/286g17abo/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/286rlyps4/IMG_1287.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/286rlyps4/)
-
And finally...the stand back and see how its coming on shots....she is starting to look every inch a beast of a tanker.
(http://s3.postimage.org/2888j5tl0/IMG_1276.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2888j5tl0/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/288bu8ikk/IMG_1279.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/288bu8ikk/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/288gsuk1w/IMG_1280.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/288gsuk1w/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/288k3x91g/IMG_1283.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/288k3x91g/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/288p2jais/IMG_1284.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/288p2jais/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/288qq2n0k/IMG_1285.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/288qq2n0k/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/288u15c04/IMG_1286.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/288u15c04/)
And finally a shot of the real ship, photographed, I believe, from the deck of HMS Penn. This is the latest image we have found, still difficult to define detail for the model build, however, dont forget the circumstances under which this and other photographs were taken, modellers requirements seventy years later were not really the issue on the day.
(http://s3.postimage.org/289w2ibd0/Ohio.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/289w2ibd0/)
-
Allen,
Have you seen the movie clip of her entering Malta, I have seen it on the net and it is included in a couple of old B/W movies.
David
-
Allen,
Have you seen the movie clip of her entering Malta, I have seen it on the net and it is included in a couple of old B/W movies.
David
Hi, yes I caught it last sunday on Yesterday.( I think that makes sense?). It is a short but useful clip, that I have been watching repeatedly. It helps that we have a copy of the 'as built' plans of Ohio, as it helps when identifying blobs in photographs!
The build is progressing, however our plans to have her ready for this years Weymouth show in July have gone for a burton, at the moment we are hoping to be on the water locally at our Canoe Lake display in August, even then, that is pushing it....
-
Tubs, Tubs, Tubs......20mm gun tubs to be precise. Two aft and two on the bridge wings. All four are fitted with an M4 stainless bolt through their bases for securing the ( as yet unbuilt ) 20mm Oerlikons down.
(http://s2.postimage.org/2b18xz690/Display_016.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2b18xz690/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2b1c91v8k/Display_017.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2b1c91v8k/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2b1fk4k84/Display_018.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2b1fk4k84/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2b1m69y78/Display_019.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2b1m69y78/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2b1nttap0/Display_020.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2b1nttap0/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2b1r4vzok/Display_021.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2b1r4vzok/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2b1ssfc6c/Display_022.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2b1ssfc6c/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2b1xr1dno/Display_023.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2b1xr1dno/)
Coming together nicely, however the closer to finished it appears to be, the more jobs come out of the woodwork for finishing. Will it ever get wet, can I afford to loose the 5p bet? I have got used to it ok2
-
Well let us know when she does her maiden voyage on canoe lake, so that I can pop over and see her.
All the best, it has been a very interesting thread to date.
David
-
FYI, here are some photos of what appears to be THE builder's model for the Ohio, temporarily removed from under her glass...some good views of the deck piping:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=143851
For example:
(http://s4.postimage.org/17buut8v8/CIMG0467.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/17buut8v8/)
(http://s4.postimage.org/17by5vxus/CIMG0481.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/17by5vxus/)
-
Cheers Pat, Trimphjon has already put me on to this site, excellent reference which has already highlighted a couple of variations that we missed using builders plans and old photographs only. I have to balance the amount of scale detail that can be added within the restrictions imposed on us regarding the pyrotechnic effects. Fireproof plumbing is what we are currently examining!
-
hows the progress on this build , its gone rather quiet since the start of the "summer " !
-
i think the attention has been put to displays and the new mould the club are making not forgetting ubns own projects
-
Ohio is hibernating. Suns shining ( somewhere!), displays to organise, sailing ship molds to finish, Nautilus to design, that sort of thing. I finished the CHANT, that must earn me some brownie points,surely?
-
Ohio is hibernating. Suns shining ( somewhere!), displays to organise, sailing ship molds to finish, Nautilus to design, that sort of thing. I finished the CHANT, that must earn me some brownie points,surely?
:-)) ok2
-
hibernating or just in DRY DOCK ?
-
hibernating or just in DRY DOCK ?
hibernating sounds cooler so we will just stay with that 8)
-
Welcome from the Portsmouth Yard, dormant for a few months now as other projects have taken precedence. However, the build is back on!
The first problem encountered this week was this, I am building a Pyrotechnic Effects model, not a scale one! Sounds obvious, but I keep forgetting. Monday was the fitting of the walkway (highway?) from the main blocks of superstructure aft to midships, over the tank deck. This has been detailed in a fantastic build/re-build thread elsewhere on the forum, featuring an RFA Tanker, and whose authors name I cannot remember! However, this aint no scale model, and that sort of super detailing will just get blown to little tiny bits the first time I over stuff one of the charges! In the interest of survivability I have instead opted for...
(http://s8.postimage.org/6g6o1d13l/IMG_4021.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6g6o1d13l/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/t1taae0p3/IMG_4022.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/t1taae0p3/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/cja4vb2mf/IMG_4023.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/cja4vb2mf/)
Only the best quality Aluminium 'U' section cut and screwed and bolted to fit. It is held down with a combination of stainless self tappers and M5 stainless bolts into captive nuts. Todays advice... do NOT fit your captive nuts in place with cyanoacrylate as a) it isnt strong enough for the job, and b) when it drops out of the bottom of the deck it IS strong enough to bond itself to the stainless bolts. The whole assembly now rattling up and down through a hole in the deck. I have invented a whole load of new swear words if anyone wants to borrow them for a special occasion, just drop me a line :}
Usually, tankers are adorned with large 'NO SMOKING' signs, this one will have 'TRIP HAZARD' at the end of the walkway, due, mostly to all the screw and bolt heads sticking up!
Next was davits, ten in total. These are being made from a material called 'Foamalux' which is used by sign writers. I imagine it is a cheaper alternative to acrylic, as the surface finish is not as good. One advantage is that it is mildly flexible, which is good news for davits. these seem to spend much time being knocked, bent and dented during transport. I have already built a bigger set for the CHANT tanker, posted elsewhere on the forum, and these have proved tough over the summer season. So now was time to scale down.
(http://s10.postimage.org/k1ewgnuk5/IMG_4019.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/k1ewgnuk5/)
These are 'in build' at present, cutting two at a time from two sheets of material taped together ensures they are paired and matched visually.
(http://s7.postimage.org/myz56ka9z/IMG_4026.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/myz56ka9z/)
So thats it so far....
-
nice to see youve sorted the strike in your dry dock !
-
Looking good! :-))
-
Happy New Year, in this forthcoming 70th Anniversary year of the Pedestal Convoy, I should be building guns for Ohio, I am, instead, building monsters....back to reality soon.
(http://s16.postimage.org/z2pia599d/scifi_021.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/z2pia599d/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/zekqs4tuf/IMG_4540.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/zekqs4tuf/)
-
Its a good look a like
-
hehehe
-
Any suggestions where I could get some stainless steel trays cut and welded up, in the Portsmouth area? I seem to be getting nowhere with my current bloke, bless him. They are for the pyro effects, need to be about 1mm thick, and are various awkward sizes, up to 4" square.
-
i will ask john in the morning , are you able to supply the stainless steel ? how many trays are we looking at ?
-
if you mark it out i cantake it to my dt techer or do it myself im very skilled with the school welder and we were funny masks
-
stainless steel is now in the workshop , the first " tray " is welded and awaiting linishing , a second is part welded , hopefully by easter we will have a complete set of finished units ! jon
-
Cheers mate, she may make the water for the 70th anniversary of Pedestal yet!
-
sorry for the delays , weve been having problems welding the thinner sheet stainless , but have now purchased a new welding plant , number one tray is now complete , with another two being welded , fabrication on all other trays will be completed over the next week or two , while the weather is wet im spending my mornings in the workshop , rather than being able to repair fishing boats on the beach !
-
fabrication & welding has been progressing very well over the last week , out of the original request for 7 custom trays ive made four of them , so just 3 to complete , all being well i should have them finished over the next week or two ! sorry for those of you hoping to see some photos of my progress , there arent any as i dont take a camera into the workshop with me . i may however photo the completed set when they get delivered . jon
-
Cheers Jon, appreciated, cos I couldn't do the job. Thanks 'Mayhem', thats what its for, and moaning about things of course!
-
all being well , your trays including the 60 mm deep funnel will be finished this friday !
-
as required all of the trays for the pyro effects have been finished and delivered , im looking forwards to seeing them mounted onto the model ! !
-
has there been any progress YET ?
-
Still trying to get a sub on or under the surface. Once I have achieved that, its back on Ohio.
-
Just like the Navy then {-) {-) {-)
Dan
-
i thought there was some kind of rush to get on with the build as the display of battle is looming fast !
-
Once the display season hits, all bets are off. The seventieth anniversary of the Pedestal Convoy is coming round in August. To be honest, it aint going to make it on the water in time. Kind of annoying {:-{
-
think id have put more effort into getting the working bits sorted before the display , then detailed the model as its used
-
Display season is over and the build is back on...
I now have trays for the pyros which need to be fitted.
(http://s16.postimage.org/rdnuh57ld/IMG_8005.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/rdnuh57ld/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/40psymrht/IMG_8006.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/40psymrht/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/8nvv0eeup/IMG_8016.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/8nvv0eeup/)
Using a fairly brutal 'ripping to bits' file, the holes were eased open one by one.
(http://s15.postimage.org/qz4jupvx3/IMG_8019.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/qz4jupvx3/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/acmzln2zb/IMG_8017.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/acmzln2zb/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/t68sin17b/IMG_8018.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/t68sin17b/)
Some of these trays ( the ones at each end of the pump section ) have to be easily removable so I can bolt and unbolt the model together at the pond side. Didn't think of that :o
(http://s7.postimage.org/r1w5bdcwn/IMG_8020.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/r1w5bdcwn/)
-
With the trays fitted I decided I wanted to see what she looked like outdoors..
(http://s18.postimage.org/gs23bwqet/IMG_8025.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/gs23bwqet/)
(http://s11.postimage.org/cx2ide8tr/IMG_8027.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/cx2ide8tr/)
(http://s11.postimage.org/vdwx47orz/IMG_8028.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/vdwx47orz/)
I noticed, in the sunlight, Ohio has got ripples! Her hull looks like a big, wobbly, welded tanker. Entirely unintentional but now very happy :-)
(http://s16.postimage.org/54satk5o1/IMG_8029.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/54satk5o1/)
(http://s10.postimage.org/9czx4ufj9/IMG_8032.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/9czx4ufj9/)
Note to self; Finish Tanker.
-
Interesting, and impressively large, project.
I did try to Google 'ripping to bits' file but only came across a 'dreadnaught' - that must the Royal Navy model version ?
-
It hangs next to the 'smashing' hammer, 'tickling' hammer and dockyard screwdriver, on the clubhouse wall.
-
It hangs next to the 'smashing' hammer, 'tickling' hammer and dockyard screwdriver, on the clubhouse wall.
Thats a 12v battery ;) :-))
-
Thats a 12v battery ;) :-))
(http://s16.postimage.org/4mcajy8td/Flash.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4mcajy8td/)
In this case, I think you had run out of batteries ;)
-
That's an old monochrome image ....... colourised. {-) O0
Yarpie.
-
I was reminded of your build today, was watching Yesterday channel about convoys and UBoats etc, when they showed some pics of the Ohio going into Malta, What a mess the bow was at the waterline, the stem bar was there but most of the bow going back about 20ft was missing. Still hoping to see it on canoe lake sometime.
-
It will be on the water next year.
The bow damage you talk of was probably Brisbane Star, as opposed to Ohio. I have found photos of both, including a fore shortened Brisbane Star following her temporary repairs. Ohio still suffered bow damage as shown in the famous photo with her tied to the two destroyers.
(http://s9.postimage.org/h7tn329t7/MV_Brisbane_Star.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/h7tn329t7/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/o88m8xsrx/Brisbane_Star2.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/o88m8xsrx/)
(http://s12.postimage.org/az35dya15/OPOhiocomesin.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/az35dya15/)
-
It will be on the water next year.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The bow damage you talk of was probably Brisbane Star, as opposed to Ohio. I have found photos of both, including a fore shortened Brisbane Star following her temporary repairs. Ohio still suffered bow damage as shown in the famous photo with her tied to the two destroyers
YEAH! YEAH! YEAH! was that the statement from 2011 !!!!
-
whats the saying ," why do today what we can easily put off until tommorrow " ? id heard a rumor it was supposed to be finished for a show in august ! ! !
-
Don't worry yourself - there's an August every year O0
Dave
-
This is true, however it is always at the same time each year. This is not fair and doesn't give me a chance.
Now back to the Type 45 paint job, followed by my secretarial duties at tonights meeting of the Guild of Village Idiots, then blue robot dogs over the weekend, and then back to work...maybe I can get August shifted to the autumn next year {-)
-
It will be August again in six months :}
Any progress?
Dave
-
Not yet, watch this space.
-
there was a rumor it may make an appearence at the canal criuse this march !
-
As was once said by the once great Daily Mirror, 'There are lies, damned lies, and Sun exclusives.' Not sure where the canal event falls!
With me its more like there are promises, guarantees, and what actually happens!
It will hit the water this year, thats a promise.....
-
thats a promise.....
But is it a fact? {-)
Dave
-
But will it sail or sink when it hits the water, however I am in the same boat, pardon the pun, I am not yet down to months, I am working still in years, Mick B.
-
The only way Ohio could sink is if someone sat on her in the water, when fully ballasted down...thats the plan anyway :D
-
theres nothing wrong with sailing a part completed model along the canal , i was once told it doesnt matter if its a plank of wood with a motor attatched it still qualifies as a boat ! ! kevs coster isnt fully finished , yet we still use her .
-
That's the spirit I like to see, who cares what the world thinks, "I am still going to have fun," and so you should Jon. Mick B.
-
The only way Ohio could sink is if someone sat on her in the water, when fully ballasted down...thats the plan anyway :D
The only way the Ohio could sink would be if it was put on the "WATER"
-
I have just spent two hours reading this thread end to end, and all I can say is WOW O.O when are we expecting the next updates please???
Sean
-
next update will be tomorrow.................... ok2 ok2 ok2
-
whoop %)
sorry i shall try and behave A touch
-
I shall be working on the stern section, installing the RC equipment in the not too distant future. If this reaches a working state before the Canal Run on Easter Sunday, it will be getting its bottom wet for the SECOND time! Admittedly, the first time was in a giant bath :}
-
whoop %)
sorry i shall try and behave A touch
Can we call you 'Half Pint'?
-
Can we call you 'Half Pint'?
or even saucy ( HP............go one it's the best I can do at this time of day............oh all right I'll go back to bed then {-) {-) {-) {-) {-) {-) {-) {-) )
-
What sort of R/C gear are you looking at? (sorry newbie on the go)
And I have been called far worse that 'Half-pint, and Saucy' so go ahead :)
Sean
-
What sort of R/C gear are you looking at? (sorry newbie on the go)
And I have been called far worse that 'Half-pint, and Saucy' so go ahead :)
Sean
As the model is in pieces and the centre section is all ballast tank, I will be fitting two receivers, one in the aft section and one in the centre section controlling pumps and flash bangs. This saves me fitting cables through waterproof glands etc. I will be using a Futaba 7 channel 2.4G Tx with two Corona Receivers.
The aft section will have rudder and motor control, plus some method to control the gunfire effects through the AA guns.
The mid section will have two channels to pre-select, then fire the pyro effects, plus a third channel operating the pump up/down functions. I may also light up the two Oerlikon guns on the bridge wings in conjunction with the aft AA guns, however it may get a bit crowded with heavy gauge wire to the effects, light weight wire to the pumps AND fibre optics up to the AA guns. Plus an on deck arm/disarm switch of course...All fitted inside a waterproof box.
-
...All fitted inside a waterproof box.
%) %) %) %) %) %) %) %) %) %) %) %) %) %)
You are expecting it to sink!!!!!! --- and are you going to fit one of those submarine" Thingy`s" that float to the surface to show the position
of sinking and are you making a special launching trolley and are you going for fully operational in aug 2013 or is the year still open ended and
can I have another 5p wager for aug 2013 and can I put it on the club notice board and can I bring Big Bertha down for salvage rights and are
you entering it in submarine races in 2014 and are you !!!!!!!!!!!
-
One more post and you finally become a full Mayhemmer, god help us all, but mostly me. In answer to your questions in no particular order;
Probably :-))
-
...All fitted inside a waterproof box.
%) %) %) %) %) %) %) %) %) %) %) %) %) %)
You are expecting it to sink!!!!!! --- and are you going to fit one of those submarine" Thingy`s" that float to the surface to show the position
of sinking and are you making a special launching trolley and are you going for fully operational in aug 2013 or is the year still open ended and
can I have another 5p wager for aug 2013 and can I put it on the club notice board and can I bring Big Bertha down for salvage rights and are
you entering it in submarine races in 2014 and are you !!!!!!!!!!!
He sounds more anoying than me time to turn my anoyence levels up see you on sunday ubn :}
-
gday ,
lover the build , impressive model
i would like to recommend you fit 2 pumps , especially in the pump out side of things , after all, how do you bail it out ?? if the pumps don't work ??
these pumps can be very reliable , but ,they are very basic , and free flooding too , which means water sits in them all yr round .
you could also fit some form of manual drain cocks ,as back up .
a idea i want to try is , fit a false bottom in a big model ,on the water line ,or 25 mm below it , then cut the bottom out of the hull ,to allow it to free flood , water proof well , but this idea does away w the needs for pumps ,as the water drains well from the hull ,as you lift it from the water , looks like it will work , in theory any way ??
this has being done by other UK modellers
good luck , love the model
bill
-
I have a free flooding barge to tow behind my tug, if that counts.
All styrene construction with false cargo base approx 1/2" below expected waterline and covered in pea shingle, when lifting out of the water you have to allow water to drain out. The flooded volume has lots of baffling to stop the water sloshing around when underway.
I think it works well and the barge ends up very light but sinks convincingly.
-
The model has an 'in' pump and an 'out' pump. Both are mounted vertically so drain out the impellor hole when removed from the water. I have a Whale Bilge Pump I have had since 1984, its been in two models, the last one in 1997, still works to this day. Anything designed to be chucked into a bilge by a fisherman has to be bomb proof!
The model has two M6 drain plugs at one end of the model, to clear out the last stubborn vestiges of water left in the ballast tank once pumped out.
Ohio wasn't designed with the false bottom concept at first, it was suggested to me by 'John The Rigging' while working on the bow. the model now has its waterproof bottom about 30mm above the visible sides of the lower hull. This has given me equipment space for pyrotechnic attachment points as well as the fixings for the two destroyers, below the hull bottom, very handy.
The model got a dusting this weekend for an open day, construction should commence again early next year, once I get these subs out of the way ;)
-
hello ,
i love the model , its a great idea , you know a lot more about it than me ,as you have done this before .
but , use those simple pumps at home ,and they aren't built to last , hence my suggestion to fit 2, 1 as a back up , this is what i though about doing on a similar model , no time yet .
after all , its going to be a very heavy model to lift out of the water , if the pumps fails .these pumps use a simple 700 mabuchi motor , w a 10 cent rubber seal , between motor and water ,and water rusts up a mabuchi motor -you can also get a pebble in the pump stator , and it wont work .
im not that strong any more , so if it was me ,i would fit 2 pumps , thats the only reason i suggested it .
looking forward to seeing it on the water , keep the photos coming , its a lovely model
bill
-
There is no such thing as a dead project, just a dusty one with spiders living in it!
I made a foolish promise about two months ago to have Ohio in the water by our next canal run in Chichester ( Easter Bank Holiday Monday, worth a visit, even if only to get rained on! ), so i decided to evict the spiders and get back on with it.
A problem I encountered last year revolved around a big Yuasa 12v battery purchased for the model, at 10amps, the battery is physically taller than the standard 7amp gels we are all used to, and wouldn't fit past the motor! Being one of my builds, the motor was well in there, and refused to budge. even after mallets and chisels and claw hammers. Fortunately graham the mechanic was there. Out came the motor mount, creaking and cracking as the hull let it go. then I discovered that muggins here had screwed the mount in. As indicated by the two sheared off screws left hanging out of the hull sides!
Still, mount removed, trimmed and re-fitted further aft...progress.
-
Next job, battery tray. This was made using a mix of 1/2" and 1/4" ply, wrapping around the base of the battery. the reason for the use of thinner 1/4" ply, sticking out of the bottom of the hull is the bolt head, connected to a bolt projecting under the hull. This and others are there in case I have to sling any extra lead under the hull during sea trials...and they are in the way.
-
One of the Display Teams rules regarding Pyrotechnic boats is that the main battery must be secure and unable to move about. Prevents the model taking on an unexpected list or worse during a display. To that end, I needed to fit some sort of strap. Normally velcro will suffice, however with the depth of the battery, I decided to fit a top strap. A bit of offcut mahogany ply from the real boatbuilders next door to the clubhouse was 'appropriated' from their bin and put to good use. Drilled and tapped to take an M4 stud, these would then be fitted to the hull sides with epoxy.
-
Final job being to mount a suitable clear acrylic tray above the motor, to mount RC equipment on. For this job I used the Best quality B&Q plywood ( delaminating a speciality!) for more supports, treated in a similar way to the previous battery clamp supports, drilled M4 and epoxied in place.
-
With an acrylic tray in place, I can start the RC installation, hopefully for the April run. Some extra work has been done on the midships section, preparing for the 'special' functions to be fitted. also, I now have all the guns drawn out to the internationally recognised scale of 1:61.5, may have to scratch build them!
-
get on with it ! providing it floats and is self propelled it will be fine . just keep that tug away from it , we both know what happens when it gets anywhere close to merchant vessels !
-
Next jobs, seal the timbers, a good splash of polyester resin everywhere sorted that out.
And time to bolt on some detail. I have added two cargo hatches aft. These straddle the removable hatch, good bit of forward planning there! So they are attached to the hatch via cyano and 8BA Nuts, bolts and washers.
-
Next job is to bring the stern section slowly to life. Propshaft and rudder removed for greasing, followed by making up a loom for the motor. This was then spun up for the first time, adjusting the tension on the motor mounting clamp until it ran sweet. The photos show my trusty SM Services Servo Tester testing the steering servo. I cannot begin to say how useful this piece of kit has been over the years. Bought it at Sandown Park at least one year before that show ceased to be.
-
Gunfire sound effect speaker next. I could not make head nor tail of the Maplins Amplifier and almost poped my precious gunfire sound unit. So i have decided to make the stern section of the boat into a giant speaker box. I have fitted a mylar speaker due to its splash proofness, as opposed to a better, gruntier one ( I have also run out of depth for a deeper speaker, on a model 100" long, run out of room, who would have guessed it :embarrassed: ).
Next was a sheet of 1.5mm Epoxy glass, epoxied onto the acrylic hatch to provide some sort of heat proofing for the smoke unit, stop it melting through into the boat!
Some balsa wood carley floats have now been added to the model, with blu tac no less.
-
Bringing the build up to date is my first attempt at moulding fittings. The model being built to the faintly ridiculous scale of 1:61 and a bit, will prove a challenge for some fittings. So I have started with doors, one open, one closed. I am using a re-usable hot melt rubber, requiring me to avoid any plastic components in the masters. My doors were a combination of etched brass bits, mirror glass rectangles, bits of brass rod and copper shim. At the same time I had a go at the oil tank vent hatches, needing about fifteen of these, moulding seemed to be the way to go. 1.5mm ply, capped with suitably detailed litho plate and topped off with a bit of 00 gauge rail track.
The red moulding compound went straight in the microwave ( dont cook in it, dont worry! ), heated up, then poured into a little baking tray, with my fittings glued to the bottom. then left to dry.
-
Out with the two mix resin, 50:50 ratios for us stupid people :-)) .
I picked up a trick reading one of them Merriman Submarine sites recently, regarding the moulding. He was making sacrificial annodes en masse, in plasticine. Pouring the resin, then floating a grease proof paper over the liquid. Capillary action drawing it down on the plasticine, and providing the mimimum of cleanup once the items were released. who said nothing good ever came out of the US of A! SS Ohio did...
Anyway, didn't have any greaseproof paper, did have some non-stick plastic box material.
-
On the above photos, the group of two oval tank hatches in the red rubber mould, have a little round hatch in the middle. This turned out to be plastic and partly melted in the hot rubber, I just poured resin in it in the hope it would be okay..it wasn't.
Final job this last weekend, Oval tank vents, on a stick.
These were built up from a mahogany square core and two halfs of a bit of ramin dowel, cut in half, badly, on a band saw. Glued together, sanded till they were right, then cut off using the guide on the bandsaw to get them uniform. Boiled sweets made of wood, numbering fifteen.
-
Next was a sheet of 1.5mm Epoxy glass, epoxied onto the acrylic hatch to provide some sort of heat proofing for the smoke unit, stop it melting through into the boat!
Not sure epoxy is the right material for heat proofing, as it softens when heated and looses its strength.
Nice build
cheers
vnkiwi :-))
-
Well done UBN ...... keep up the grand work my man. O0
You have my approval (for what it's worth). :embarrassed:
Sandy.
-
Well done UBN ...... keep up the grand work my man. O0
You have my approval (for what it's worth). :embarrassed:
Sandy.
Cheers, big ears!
It will hit the water this year, watch this space ok2
All well with yourself?
-
wouldnt a section of tufnol be better as a heat insulator under the smoke unit ?
-
Having been in this hobby for more years than I dare to remember, I find I am allowed, no entitled, to forget most stuff that I have learnt over the years...so yes, fibreglass sheet is a hopeless insulator, I just forgot. Starting again....
The Fibreglass sheet is an 'underfelt' for my main heatproofing material which will be ----------.
Oh, and I "xxxxx" up the moulds last night. Left the resin in not the required 30 minutes, but 9 hours. would not release, ruined. The good news is It can be re-melted. I now have two new, moulds, not ruined, thank you.
-
unbuiltnautilus,very nice build, been folowing for a while.
Love what your doing with moulding bits, I have some of that stuff, better get of my butt, and follow suit.
Thanks for the tips from your build
vnkiwi :-))
-
It floats and did well as a tug this weekend assisting a tug that had truly fowled props.
-
Spotted on a local canal this weekend.......more to follow...........
-
So how did go any problems with the boat
-
Good job. :-))
Great to see this iconic vessel afloat.
More power to your elbow.
Sandy.
-
Cheers guys.
It floats. It didn't leak. Draws 5 Amps at full speed ( just made it up and back on one 10 amp battery ). Slightly light in the bows ( fix that this Sunday ). Turns in about a 10 foot circle, not bad for a 100" model. Bit slow, but that was mostly me taking pictures and enjoying the handling of the model, its probably a good regatta boat, I was playing in the lily pads with it!
Now I have to paint a Panzer IV for someone, and finish off Nautilus ( cos I'm selling it...tell no-one!), so Ohio work will now slow down again. At least it works though :-)
-
In order to get the bows down to waterline (and below) just use the original cargo.
This is available not too far from Fawley Refinery by way of a pipeline, recently judiciously tapped.
But don't tell everybody ..... they'll give the game away. ok2
-
i can confirm it performed very well on monday , it spent much of the day in the company of a coastal thames sailing barge and a springer tug
jon
-
She really is starting to look the part. A very nice model.
Geoff
-
Scooby Doo back to Sunday moment ~ :o ~ :o ~ :o ~ :o ~ :o ~ :o ~ :o ~
Before the maiden voyage at the canal, I spent sunday securing the various fittings to the model. this entailed scaling up by 1.4 all the dimensions on the plan. lots of pencil marks, followed by precision sticking with either epoxy or super Superglue.
The fittings were pencilled round first. The decks then abraded with a hobby drill to provide a key. The bollards were drilled to fit and epoxied, while the home made tank vents were cyano'ed down without the use of an activator. Giving the glue more time to penetrate the timbers before hardening.
Some of the vents are the correct spacing between each other, but have had to be shifted aft to avoid the metal pyro trays already fitted. so they look right but aint in the right spot!
The 80mm Graupner 4 blade prop, bought for another job, was drilled through and tapped through, then an M5 bolt run through the deck from below and the two mated together.
Scooby Doo back to last week~ :o ~ etc...
The stern section has had its skylight windows squared up, I may have been drunk when drilling the holes originally, probably not though, just rushing the job. 32 Billing portholes later, thats complete.
Support struts drilled through the boat deck had 2mm brass washers soldered flat against the underside of the boat deck. these were then superglued in place, giving me a nice flat area to bond, as well as the vertical holes.
Some of my cast doors were fitted. I am having issues with this hot melt moulding material, having lost about five moulds so far, when the resin bonded to the hot melt rubber and would not let go. Not too major an issue as I can always re-melt the rubber material and start again, but a bit of a puzzle.
-
One of the teams recently refurbished/rebuilt tankers for scale, its only a 65" tiddler compared to Ohio :}
-
And finally those pesky stern section photos, as mentioned above.
-
Yesterday was re-ballasting time. We had an open day at the teams clubhouse, so members took the oportunity to fill the test tank and do whatever they needed to do. Me, add ballast to the bow and flush the ballast tank of sawdust!
-
Three years and one month since its last dunking in the test tank. Notice the deliberate mistake though? I forgot the diverter pipe for the 'drain' pipe. So the water shot straight up and back through the open hatches, into the boat again.... :embarrassed: . Hence very sophisticated coffer dams being placed on deck.
It was interesting watching all the pyro trays float off as the tank filled. Need to address that!
It was also interesting seeing what had weathered the three years and one month better, me or the boat!
Boat looks fine.
-
Klutz of the week award.
I have been researching the proper colours for British Merchant Shipping during WWII. Found the following recomendations; Iron Grey for the sides, Dark Grey for the decks. i had both Humbrol 92 Iron Grey and Humbrol 67 Tank Grey. The Iron Grey needed a severe mixing to get both tins the same colour, plus a bit of thinning to get it to brush on easily. Job done.
Went to pick up a couple of extra tins for back up..Humbrol 92 has been discontinued for about twelve years...no wonder it needed a bit of a stir!
To the local specialist paint mixing shop then....
Me and my hat and Ohio at Alfold on Sunday.
-
Coming along fine UBN. :-))
The two watertight bulkhead joins are working a treat, no sign of hogging or sagging (as they say in the trade).
Will she be "active" this season"?
Worth a look.
-
There was the slightest sag when we picked her up at the bow and stern. So do I tighten the nuts another quarter turn and risk loosening the bolts or allow a little bit of flex. We did launch with strops under the mid section though. Its proper heavy, so no sneaking down Canoe Lake at 8:30am of a Sunday to have a quiet sail, cos I cannot lift her on my own!
I doubt if she will be fully display ready this season, lots of stuff to add inside and out and underwater, plus the usual display season commitments to swallow up all that spare time. So lets say years end to be fully 'bangy and sinky!'
-
I know of another large model, RODNEY, that sags alarmingly when lifted by two strops into the water. (By strops, I mean large timing belts and not the individuals)! HMS RENOWN's video quite clearly shows this. (I won't include the video link on this, your thread). %)
I feel you're quite right in not over-tightening the captive bolts to eliminate any movement. As long as the transverse bulkheads are strong enough and there's no water ingress, job jobbed!! O0
Keep up the good work and many thanks for the update.
Gandhi.
-
Sandy, the saggy bottom on Renown doesnt alter her performance on the water,or I didnt think so when you gave me the honour of handling her for a short while!
Alan, Ohio is coming on nicely,hope she will be performing next April,when we come up for our 25th Reunion.
Best wishes,
Mick F
-
Sandy, the saggy bottom on Renown doesnt alter her performance on the water,or I didnt think so when you gave me the honour of handling her for a short while!
Alan, Ohio is coming on nicely,hope she will be performing next April,when we come up for our 25th Reunion.
Best wishes,
Mick F
Sounds like the best sort of incentive to finish the model :-))
-
Hi Allen found this pic on another site thought it may interest you.
David
-
Sorry Allen wrong pic, try again
-
Hi,
Interesting read.
Attached is a photograph of Dad's WW2 Ship, HMS Prins Albert. and off the port bow the wreck of Ohio.
Regards
-
Nice image. Photos of Ohio are as rare as hens teeth. This one is new to me and will be scrutinized!
-
Time for the big magnifying glass
-
Five years in build and its just getting a coat of primer on the superstructure...is this slow?
%)
Chichester Canal this last weekend, and as Adam at Chichester commented LAST December..." haven't you finished that yet?" So I gave her a coat of grey primer on all the exposed woodwork, etch primer in the stainless pyro trays, and a pair of magnetic hatches over the pumps. So, many greys at present.
Someone suggested it would look good when I get the helicopter fitted....spud head :}
-
Must dig the plans out and get some masts built..
-
Oh, and with only seven runs under her belt, the Supertec 1/4 scale servo coughed its last on Sunday...stripped gear. Thats three of those stripped on three models this year..it pays to buy cheap!
Will slap a Futaba one in there instead.
-
Lol, dodgy supplier?
-
Great to see some progress UBN. :-))
i keep looking-in on this baby.
Sandy.
-
Masts and general sticky up bits next.
I love brass almost as much as I hate photographing it so here we go.
I have spent the last two weeks on the fore and main mast, handling davits, king posts and derricks (looked that lot up, hope I got the correct terminology, I am only building it..dont need to know what I am building!!).
Ohio has two masts, six assorted king post/derrick combos and eight davits not assigned to lifeboat launching ( handling hoses etc, I believe ), and i set out to build all of them.
-
Pics please
-
Pics as requested :}
King posts fore deck.
Built out of 8mm dia brass tube from scrap propshaft material. An M6 brass stud is soldered into the base to allow them to be removed from the model for transport. I have re-drilled old coupling inserts and tapped them M6. These will be drilled into the deck and epoxied in place. I have used RB Models brass bits throughout the mast building. Many combinations are available. From Deans Marine.. a bit expensive, but they saved many hours of tedious work, so well worth the investment. I have also tapped into my supply of brass nuts and bolts, using M3 and 12BA, plus the previously mentioned M6 bolts. Finally some mast fittings scrounged off of an etch brass set from a Billing Boats Colin Archer.
-
Rear Derricks.
These I have shortened, as if you build them to match the builders drawings, they interfere with the arcs of fire of the aft Bofors and oerlikon guns. contemporary photos show them level with the tops of the gun tubs..so these are shortened.
Same build as the fore ones. Both versions have the hole in the top capped off with 6mm dia beech dowel, soaked in cyano and filed flat.
-
The chain seemed a bit odd, but features on the photos of Ohio undergoing builders trials..its also fire proof, could be useful!
-
the masts were about 10mm in diameter and have the 8mm ex-propshafts as bases, with the M6 bolts once again soldered in. This then has K&S metals outer tubes soldered to them. Topped off with a large brass collet that I had knocking about, plus a large copper washer on top of that. Both masts feature a long tank vent that reaches over 3/4 way up the mast. These were made from 1/8" dia soft brass tube, pinned with small 12BA bolts into the mast then soldered in situ. The upper mast being 1/4" dia K&S tube.
-
the fore mast also features two long derrick booms. to get the profile of these right, I have sleeved them with some suitable carbon rod, cyano glued in place. More RB models brass nick nacs were used to secure these to the mast. This time with M3 brass bolts soldered in place. At the back of this mast is a long stamped brass ladder, previously made by Robbe. This was soldered into the slots on strategically fitted 4BA brass, slotted bolts soldered into the mast. I need one more of these for the aft mast..problem is they are no longer made. Any ideas?
-
The lamp near the top of the mast features a bit of shaped copper which I believe I salvaged from an old mains plug, bent to shape and soldered in place. The 'lamp' is a Billing Boats Bollard, drilled and soldered in place!
-
Davits.
these were bent to shape using an Expo tube Bender. Guaranteeing me the same shape each time..no more jam jars for me! The bases started life about thirty years ago as parts of British built servos which I acquired loads off many years ago. These were soldered into 5/32" brass tubes cut to length. Once trimmed, they were stuck in a pillar drill and drilled open to 2.5mm. The outer tube preventing the little servo bits from splitting.
-
So this is the result of a couple of weeks of soldering.. only got burned twice..once when the old gas torch decided to let gas out of the side as well as the tip...£25 later I had a replacement..and the second time when I forgot that 'HOT' comes out the end of that blue flame, while trying to get the best angle to feed solder into the job..not bad for me :-))
-
I forgot the big tank vents midships. These are cowl vents on top of the king posts and were a bit of a feature. I was trying to figure out how to produce these. Plastic fittings were out of the question, as they could get singed during a display. White metal seemed the best option, however, possibly still a bit risky.
Then I came across some REALLY old fittings, including a pair of brass cowl vents.. once paint strippered, they could be soldered in place as seen in the photos.
So that's it up till now. there will be some bits to solder on to the davits etc before they are good and finished, meanwhile, now i have to start considering the maze of deck piping and what to make that out of!
-
The ladders are available from Cornwall Model Boats in 75mm lengths, I saw them when searching for 'brass ladders' although at 1/72nd of my build I thought the rungs were too thick as they were stamped from sheet not etched. They do have plastic ones in the same length which for my build looked better.
-
Great brass work and a great project all together :-))
-
Great brass work and a great project all together :-))
Many thanks for that...I have, however found a quicker way to get my tanker. It is a little too late now though %)
-
Masts went up Sunday. Two at a time with Devcon Plastic Welder. The knurled nature of the modified boat couplings meant I had to get them fitted in the correct orientation from the off. So the masts were tightened up then lined up correctly, fore and aft. glued both down the hole and around the knurled fitting, and lightly hammered in! Plastic Welder is a fairly fast setting adhesive, hence only two masts at a time being fitted. These then had to be lined up fore and aft and across the beams of the boat visually, with the aid of a Tri-Square and the window frames inside the clubhouse. This worked for the King Posts which are vertical to the ships waterline, not so much for the main and fore masts, which both sweep back a few degrees. This had to be done by eye using the Tri-Square again, but allowing a small gap to appear at the top of the Tri-square, of the same size, twice...
-
The little donut of glue that splurged out was removed once dry, using a 1/4" chisel, in a downwards motion, one side of the coupling at a time, until it let go. Makes a very good paint stripper does Plastic Welder :-))
-
Interestingly, the little davits, that only needed a 2mm pilot hole, did not take well to the Plastic Welder, coming loose with little encouragement...so out with the Z-Poxy, that stuck them!
It now looks a bit 'busier' as a model than it did before.
-
And posed alongside our club Tanker (65", just a tiddler!)...
-
Deck plumbing or guns next...Question; can I bend a decent right angle in a length of 3mm dia solid aluminium without it snapping on me?
-
Deck plumbing or guns next...Question; can I bend a decent right angle in a length of 3mm dia solid aluminium without it snapping on me?
Try annealing the aluminium before bending, rub it with soap first then heat until the soap turns brown and it should be soft enough to bend easily. It will work harden when bent and some aluminium alloys will age harden when left after bending.
Jim
-
Thank you, I shall give that a shot.
-
The Royal British Legion September magazine LIVE ON contains an article with pics of the SS Ohio in the harbour and with the attached destroyers. There is an account from a survivor, one George Robson Miller who served as a Private Gunner. A very brave man who describes his experience in a way that makes me proud to be British.
-
UBN...with the comment of deck plumbing ...leads me to think scale pipework
The advice from JimG about annealing & soap is 100% :-))
You could also consider one of the Dubro 1/8" tube benders for scale like pipe bends.........about $15.00
But it will provide totally uniform bends that look the part
Derek
-
The Royal British Legion September magazine LIVE ON contains an article with pics of the SS Ohio in the harbour and with the attached destroyers. There is an account from a survivor, one George Robson Miller who served as a Private Gunner. A very brave man who describes his experience in a way that makes me proud to be British.
Excellent article. The stories attached to the Ohio and to the Pedestal convoy make for astonishing reading. However, what set me on this path was a copy of a painting by Norman Wilkinson, printed in a magazine about 25 years ago, that convinced me I would one day have to builder her.
-
UBN...with the comment of deck plumbing ...leads me to think scale pipework
The advice from JimG about annealing & soap is 100% :-))
You could also consider one of the Dubro 1/8" tube benders for scale like pipe bends.........about $15.00
But it will provide totally uniform bends that look the part
Derek
One ordered from the importers.
I now have a method of transporting a 100" model on one trolley, its big and it works...photos to follow.
-
I have a pair of those tubing benders. Not very good if all you can source is metric tube {:-{ in my case its not viable to have imperial sized tubing delivered from UK to Spain - postage is twice the cost of the tube and as I found out to my cost with some 300mm lengths, they do bend so the postie can get it in the mail box <:( <:(
-
Giant Tanker Transporter Mk1...
-
And getting wet at The Southern model Show last weekend. Masts now primer coated, Pyro trays disguised with deck grey paint, and the problem with discontinued Humbrol colours now sorted thanks to a real close match with the re-introduced No111, also Humbrol.
-
She is very much looking like the photos of the real ship, I am most happy with the progress, must get on with the fiddly bits now.
-
I was in the Malta war museum this afternoon. There are several relics of the Ohio on display including the ship's wheel. They also have an audiovisual display of the Pedastal convoy centered on Ohio. Other fascinating exhibits include the damaged ship's bell of the carrier Illustrious which is literally shredded, the Sea Gladiator biplane Faith and the George Medal awarded to the Island.
Can't post photos at the moment as I only have my tablet and phone with me.
Colin
-
I was in the Malta war museum this afternoon. There are several relics of the Ohio on display including the ship's wheel. They also have an audiovisual display of the Pedastal convoy centered on Ohio. Other fascinating exhibits include the damaged ship's bell of the carrier Illustrious which is literally shredded, the Sea Gladiator biplane Faith and the George Medal awarded to the Island.
Can't post photos at the moment as I only have my tablet and phone with me.
Colin
When you are ready, stick em up :-))
I wish I could concentrate on just one project at a time though {:-{
-
OK, here they are:
The Pedestal Convoy display
Damaged Bell from HMS Illustrious
Malta George Cross
Sea Gladiator 'Faith'
Wish I was back there at the moment 18 degrees and sunny; 8 degrees and wet here plus the gale when we were away blew a roof panel out of the carport!
Colin
-
HMS Illustrious ships bell certainly tells the story.
-
Glad this turned up again UBN. I really like your brass work. The masts are true model engineering :-))
If looking for 4ba screws, maybe they have a few at the model engineer club in Chichester? Pop over with a part of your ship one Tuesday evening. They would be impressed with the brasswork, maybe they would have a look in their Baccy tins for some screws.
-
Ohh, I have that covered! Between EKP Supplies and the Southampton Boat Show, I am pretty well stocked with both BA and Metric sizes of non-ferrous NBWs.
Chichester Model Boat Club are having one of their canal runs this coming Sunday, 12:30pm depart from the basin. At the moment SS Ohio is my most likely model for a day out. The question is, can I paint and fit 22 tank hatches by Sunday,,,we shall see.
-
I wish I had been interested in model boats properly when I lived in Bognor. A fellow CDSME member (Giles) seriously sparked my interest when he brought in a model of an Armoured cruiser about five years ago to restore at club. I think he is a member of the Chi model boat club as well (or was)
I'm glad you found a source of BA bolts.
-
Giles is with the Chichester crowd, and I am glad to say the Armoured Cruiser is now a regular sight on the water.
-
Isn't she gorgeous! She looked better in green and black, but she is still lovely in grey. I fell in love with the model when I saw it and it inspired me to get plans of a later armoured cruiser.
Anyhow, back to business, how goes Ohio?
-
Some work done today instead of the Chichester Canal Run, which was rained off.
I had a number of the smaller tank hatches to fit, having only recently moulded them. The plan being to epoxy them in place, after installing brass M4 bolts into the bottom. The heads acting as anchor points when gluing everything in place.
I used a marine coupling end as a temporary depth gauge, this stopped me drilling straight through the whole thing, many times!
Notice the unerring use of precision measurements to locate the centres for drilling..it's a wonder anything is straight :o
-
I had to make a few compromises with the positioning of the tank hatches, the 'special' function trays have got in the way. So, I have less than I should have, in not quite the right positions. It's all added detail though..very happy.
I drilled part way through the 8mm ply deck, to slightly larger than the head size of the M4 bolts poking out of the bottom of the hatches. This gave me wiggle room to adjust out my poor centre drilled locators. Then I counter sunk the holes, this gave me a bit more room for epoxy plus the sawdust in the holes!
-
Final job of the day being to improve the fit of a couple of the metal hatches. These were lined with 3mm plywood. Sanded and tickled to suit, then epoxied in place.
-
Well now, that's a great tip on depth stopping a drill bit. I usually just use tape but that idea will definitely be adopted. :-)
Regards,
Ray.
-
Beat me to it Ray....looking rather good...how did i miss this build
Dave
-
Surprisingly, I did not set out to use the coupling end for this. It is 4mm and was going on a 380 motor as an offset 'trembler' for a shaker plate, for getting rid of air bubbles while resin moulding. The whole thing being bolted to an old plastic cutting board, with rubber feet fitted for good measure...it works too. Noisy though!!
-
That's the thing about sea fog, you look out the window at glorious sunshine, proceed two miles south and...
-
I have spent Sunday afternoon slapping humbrol No111 all over the primer grey superstructure, giving almost all of the model it's final colour. The two boat decks retain the primer grey at the moment. They are going to get the timber deck treatment, so it was kind of pointless laying a coat of colour down to then glue planks to it later. There is the possibility I may try and fake the deck effect with paint instead. There is an area in front of the bridge that is virtually unreachable for planking, paint may be my fall back option. The last fake deck I painted was twelve years ago in a manned battleship and the planks were 1" wide..much easier.
-
I still have details to add, including pop guns ( must put the US pattern 5" gun on that circular platform aft, someone else referred to it today as a 'flight deck'! ), boxes, crates and winches, deck plumbing, all busy busy things, which help to make a semi-scale boat look more 'scale'.
Also the electrics for the whizz bangs, plus associated electrical plumbing still need to be fitted..so it's not finished yet.
Today was a test to see if I could launch and recover the model on my own. I cannot lift it with strops when it is all bolted together, however, if I bolt the bow and centre section together, I can launch this, then attach the aft radio section once afloat.
Also, it was a brushless motor test day, so I had my mid refit Perkasa with me also. 37" model for scale alongside Ohio.
-
Happy noises from me..August 1942, Valletta Harbour, Malta, and April 2017, Canoe Lake, Southsea. Looks good, just need to get the pumps working..
-
A short play on the pond on Sunday, 10:45am till 4:30pm. Ran out of batteries!
-
Right, to work. Deck planking. One, I'm not planking it. Too much like hard work, so I am trying another option, faking it!
The idea being to produce a deck looking effect, without adding every single plank.
First job was to slap on some acrylic Ochre as a base colour. Acrylic is pretty impervious to solvents, so should stand up to whatever else I do to it later in the process.
Next job is to lay random 3mm wide masking tape, in a planking pattern, to allow me to paint a different colour in the gaps. This all went well for about eight plank widths, after which I mostly lost the plot. Trying to remember what repeating pattern is next, while randomly leaving some planks out, proved too much for my little mind! Not helped by me having introduced four full length tape lines to keep me on the stright and narrow. None of these followed the pattern :o :o
-
Next job was to apply a rough coat of a similar, but lighter deck colour. I went with Tamiya Buff. Light in colour and quick drying. This was chased in, in varying depths of colour, between the tape. Making sure, wherever possible, to build up a bit of thickness along the tape edge, which comes in handy later.
-
Before removing the tape, I chased in an oil based wood stain, randomly applied. it was at this point I wished I had laid this plywood deck with the grain running fore and after, rather than athwartships,
D Head.... %) ..
Then off with the tape, and in with some more wood stain. This time working on the individual exposed planks. Also, anything that had previously dried and looked a bit tat, could be re-worked with a brush damp with fresh wood stain.
-
Happy with that. Once I have some clutter on the deck painted grey, plus cut the planking in with grey, a couple of millimetres in from the outer edge, it should all look tikkety boo ( that's technical speak for 'Not Pants' ).
Three more decks to go...great >:-o
-
The fake timber deck finish is now complete. Initially it looked for all the world like a matchstick deck, which I personally, don't like the look of at all...so another great success %) %) . Still, once I cut in around deck fittings etc, all started to come together nicely.
-
At Beale Park last weekend Ohio got to come out to play with fellow modellers, and a great day it was too :-))
NOT a flight deck guys <*<
-
Not. A. Flight. Deck!
-
She is looking wicked! The foamy wake is perfect. How did you manage that. It must have been planned and engineered. I have always had a spot in my heart for Ohio. One of my first models was a Texaco tanker. I never let go the love. Keep up the spectacular work.
Jonathan
-
I think the foamy wake is a byproduct of the distinctly non-scale look of the stern. It is flat bottomed and just below thw waterline. This combined with the very un-hydrodynamic shape of the under hull, and its power plant, leads to the prop producing much more power than the hull can usefully use. So loads of drag up front, with loads of power aft=foamy wash, as the hull can never reach the speed the prop is trying to push it up to. Not designed, a happy coincidence!
-
It is funny how, at times, unintended results occur form our decisions and add wonderful effects.
I think you should claim credit for an amazing scale effect. I have always wanted to find a way to add foam to my wakes without putting my tugboat or destroyer on plane. I have seen air pumped in the prop wash but your tanker captures the effect of the upper prop blade breaking the surface and foaming the wake. Brilliant!
-
I reckon she must steer like a bran door on a windy day {-)......& the cavitation must be excited by engine overspeed >>:-(
But it does look good :-))
Derek
-
Now listen. Me, being a bit of a div today (Div=spud,plank, donut, Donald.) forgot a certain something fitted to the Tanker. Derek's comment regarding the maneuverab, manouverab, steering ability of my fine vessel ( shouldn't you be in bed..), reminded me. I fitted a sexy addition to the rudder, in the shape of a wedge to aid steering. This allows me to turn the old girl on a sixpence, but is probably the main cause of the bubbles. Photos follow...
-
Ohio as part of our fleet train, at Sumners Ponds show a couple of weeks ago. Still no whizz bangs on board. Being in the middle of display season, all work has stopped..AGAIN..however, we have a lax period coming up. Must try and add some detail for this August 12th. Also find some water not covered in pond weed!
-
I love the planking effect you created there! Better than actual planking. Another attractive model ship.
-
I love the planking effect you created there! Better than actual planking. Another attractive model ship.
Cheers, it was either going to work or fail badly, happily it worked.
The Americans have a knack for adding just that bit if flair into many of their ships. I have a reprint of an identification guide book from WW2 which mentions a comparison between the North Carolina class and the King George V class. Describing the latter as very stark, with sheer, straight lines everywhere, while the North Carolina's had flaired bows, streamlining to the superstructures etc. It went on to explain that the British ships cost 40% less to build and were built to do a job, not look pretty, and this was an American publication!
All this holds true for SS Ohio and her sister ships, after all, they represented the Texas Oil Company and Sun Ship Builders, so they didn't make her an ugly bug!!
-
On the fifteenth of August 1942, a lifetime ago, the tanker SS Ohio entered Grand Harbour, Malta, for the last time. As part of Operation PEDESTAL, a last gasp effort to save the island of Malta, and with it, the attempt to alter the course of the war in the Mediterranean.
The operation involved a fast convoy of merchant ships and warships, which had to run the gauntlet of axis forces from Gibraltar in the west, all the way to the little island of Malta. In the process losing the aircraft carrier HMS Eagle, cruisers HMS Manchester and HMS Cairo, the destroyer HMS Forsight. Merchant ship losses were high, Empire Hope, Waimarama, Clan Ferguson, Glenorchy, Deucalion, Santa Eliza, Dorset, Wairangi and Almeria Lykes were all lost. Only five merchant vessels arrived at Valletta Harbour, Brisbane Star and Rochester Castle, despite both having been torpedoed, Melbourne Star, Port Chalmers and the tanker SS Ohio, barely afloat and being supported by two destroyers strapped to her sides.
These ships delivered well over thirty two thousand tons of supplies, plus the invaluable oil held in the tanks of SS Ohio, totalling about eleven thousand tons.
With this stay of execution, the forces on Malta were able to both defend the island and disrupt the supply of food, fuel and ammunition to Rommels army in North Africa, leading to their defeat at El Alamein three months later.
Seventy Five years ago, on August 15th 1942, the Texas Oil Company Tanker SS Ohio, with a mainly British crew, sailed into Valletta Harbour, to the sound of cheers from the people of Malta. One small moment in a far greater conflict.
Print size increased
ken
-
some might say she wasn't beautiful as a ship, being only a tanker............but what she and her crew represented make her probably one of the most beautiful ships in history.
triumph over tragedy always wins, and what those merchant men and the Royal Navy did for the people of Malta GC did the day that normal ship became immortal and sailed into Valletta , probably changing the course of the war in the Med, will live on in history forever, and should never be forgotten.
remember September 3rd.....Merchant navy day.
-
It is a touching tribute to the crews and sailors :-))
-
I love this build. I am reading my way thru"At All Costs". It is an account of the Ohio's trial and the efforts of two American merchant Marine sailors who boarded her during Pedestal after their ship, the Santa Eliza, was sunk during the convoy and the contributions they made to her survival. Interestingly,, Ohio had a salvage air system that allowed HP air to be blown into almost all of her various tanks. Installed on the Clyde, it was powered by compressors installed at the same time as other "improvements" following her loan to England.
Jonathan
-
Thank you for the kind words. It is certainly a long build!
Sounds like an interesting read. Who is the author, I think I need to find myself a copy?
-
The author is Sam Moses, and the publisher is Random House, ISBN-13:978-I-4000-6318-5
-
Cheers for that. Just ordered via Amazon ( along with H G Wells War of the Worlds paperback and BSG Season 4 Soundtrack...I cannot be trusted on Amazon!! ), looking forward to a good read, and possibly some more clues about Oerlikon numbers and placement on the ship. I still vote for two aft, two on the upper bridge wings and two on the aft part of the upper bridge structure, port and starboard. However, still looking at the forward part of the aft boat deck.....
-
I just read past that section of the book describing the "preparations" and alterations made to Ohio. I think they were quite specific and will help you in your detailing quest. I don't want to spoil your anticipation though, so I'll refrain from posting them.
I don't get to be a tease very often.
Cheers
Jonathan
-
I just read past that section of the book describing the "preparations" and alterations made to Ohio. I think they were quite specific and will help you in your detailing quest. I don't want to spoil your anticipation though, so I'll refrain from posting them.
I don't get to be a tease very often.
Cheers
Jonathan
Teased from across the seas! I think I can wait a few days, it's been seven years in build so far %)
-
Is there a particular reason for this old thread being pinned to the top?
Not trying to be cocky, just genuinely curious :-)
-
Mostly cos it is a work in progress, cool as a cucumber, big and heavy, the only SS Ohio on the forum, and it is not a Shannon!!! Honestly, I don't know, but am always grateful to up there with Albert the Tug :-))
-
Because it is special ! Well the builder is :P
-
...and old.
-
Very. :}
-
Well in that case, that's all the reason I need :-)) :}
-
I love this build. I am reading my way thru"At All Costs". It is an account of the Ohio's trial and the efforts of two American merchant Marine sailors who boarded her during Pedestal after their ship, the Santa Eliza, was sunk during the convoy and the contributions they made to her survival. Interestingly,, Ohio had a salvage air system that allowed HP air to be blown into almost all of her various tanks. Installed on the Clyde, it was powered by compressors installed at the same time as other "improvements" following her loan to England.
Jonathan
I am not a fast reader, too busy building stuff etc, however I can highly recommend this book. Just finished it and I have to say it is the best of the Pedestal books that I have read, inspiring bit of history, well presented. On the technical side of the placement of the AA guns, I think I can say that the layout of guns was as follows; From the bow, 3" WW1 pattern HA gun, probably an American pattern one as it was already fitted when the ship arrived in Scotland. Two single 20mm Oerlikons on the upper bridge wings. Two smaller AA guns bolted to the forward part of the aft boat deck, Browning or Vickers machine guns ( that is why I cannot spot them in photographs, either too small or they were unshipped/pilfered by one of the destroyers when Ohio was abandoned. Two single 20mm Oerlikons on the upper gun platform just aft of the funnel. A single Bofors 40mm cannon on the square raised platform on the centreline. A 5" low angle US pattern, WW1 vintage battleship style secondary gun on the big circular platform aft.
That is what I am going to settle on going forward. Once HMS Snowflake is complete, I think it is time to finish off this mammoth project once and for all :-))
-
Look forward to seeing it Alan, are you going to display it in the shop!!
-
At 100" long, with almost a 13" beam,plus a very odd shaped bottom ( she is a Pompey lass after all! ), I don't think we have anywhere big enough to display her. Anyway no one is buying her, not Ohio..
-
Well to be fare Alan, it has to be completed before it can be sold 🤪
-
Now that is just mean! You know I have a half finished corvette, half track, tank landing craft and U-Boat, plus HMS Dolphin needs servicing before Bucklers Hard in July..priorities chap :} .
-
And then there are the new merchantmen to plan/build, the bridge to rebuild plus I am sure we can find a few orher things!
-
Ahh the bridge, forgot about that..maybe you lot shouldn't have blown it to bits!!
-
Adrians fault. He does the blowy up stuff, I am just the bean counter
-
Then there is this to buld
-
Just looking at those. DC Thrower motor in the aft deck house, trailing a couple of whizz bangs, about a metre long, easy build, whats not to like?!
-
Yep. Just have to build the darn thing!
But first I need to get the Phoenix back together
-
Tis what it is. The Summer season is 'Shows=priority 1' everything else can wait..
-
Was the Ohio a T2. I served on one in the fifities.
-
No, the Ohio's preceded the T2s, however I believe they heavily influenced the design of them.
-
just been reading this again, some of use look so young at the start {-) still cant rush a good wine
-
just been reading this again, some of use look so young at the start {-) still cant rush a good wine
You are correct indeed.
One of the problems I find with build projects is a 'lack of steam' in the middle of them. It is all action, and planning, and book buying, and spending on kit, right at the beginning..also the same when nearing the end of a build. It's just that bit in the middle, what a pain it can be! Not helped by the model being water ready, and tested in said water, so nothing to look forward to upon completion.
Still, Knuckle down and get on with it :-))
-
If you have £45 to spare you can buy a special edition model of Ohio.
https://anticsonline.uk/N426/N1590_/106767795_Albatros-ALK112-Ohio-the-tanker-in-the-Pedestal-Convoy-Model.html
Colin
-
Alan, i was browsing Smiths the bookshop, when I came across Max Hastings book "Operation Pedestal & Chastise, a recent well reviewed book for £7 a 75% discount. Anyway one of the little titbits I found was all the Merchantmen sailed with all their lifeboats swung out and ready for immediate use, believe these convoy runs were more dangerous through enemy action than the Artic convoys. But I thought you may be interested and yes there is a large double page pic of Ohio entering Grand harbour in good definition. My Maritime lecturer at Glasgow was awarded the V.C for salvaging her with his fleet minesweeper, an his party trick was to come in the class room smiling then suddenly run down its length and jump with both feet together and end up on the back desk with his outspread fingers againts the glass pains, he would then turn round with a chuckle and say" one of these days I will miss and go through the Glass" , we were on the 10th floor with very large glass windows!
-
Evening chap. A good bit of info, many thanks for that.
I believe you are correct about the boats being swung out. The attached image had me confused for quite some time, as to the dark grey mark on the hull midships, until I realised it was the shadow cast by the swung out ships boat. Not something I plan to replicate on my model, when I finally get round to finishing it off that is!!