Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Submarines => Topic started by: thegrimreaper on November 17, 2010, 05:13:57 pm
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Hiya guys my Sheerline Akula arrived today if no one minds while i build the sub i will put some pics up as i go along wont be a quick build due to work any hint`s or tips along the way would be gratefuly received
first off whats in the big box
(http://s2.postimage.org/1wo0aa25g/SDC10690.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1wo0aa25g/)
Like a kid on Christmas day :D
(http://s2.postimage.org/1woih6vl0/SDC10694.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1woih6vl0/)
Lots of packing
(http://s2.postimage.org/1wou1yb1g/SDC10691.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1wou1yb1g/)
The two halfs of the hull
(http://s2.postimage.org/1wp5mpqhw/SDC10692.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1wp5mpqhw/)
lots of little bags with more bits in
(http://s2.postimage.org/1wpkijuxw/SDC10693.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1wpkijuxw/)
and of course destructions
With many thanks to Chris for the service he provided
to be continued >>>>>>
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If the boat doesn't come with one, get a leveller, it'll be much more satisfying to run with one.
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... if no one minds ...
Hey, this is MBM! Of course no-one minds. (But we'll need pictures as you go!)
Andy
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Painting is by far the most time comsuming part of building this boat, you should be able to have here ready for bath testing tomorrow :-))
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maybe if i was you mankster but i have come across a small snag the screws i have for the servo`s are to small for the pre drilled holes so its a trip to Q & B in the morning at the moment i am slot cutting
dont think i want a typhoon now ha ha
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Got a bit more done today drilled out the bottom flood holes and also took out the side slots also put the reciever and servo`s in position in the process of making the cam for the ballast tank op`s
(http://s2.postimage.org/24hphq6as/SDC10696.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/24hphq6as/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/24hw3vk9w/SDC10698.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/24hw3vk9w/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/24i4dkaqs/SDC10699.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/24i4dkaqs/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/24i9c6c84/SDC10700.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/24i9c6c84/)
will post more as and when i do a bit more
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few more pictures for you build is going well will have wtc in the test tank (bath ) tonight with any luck
(http://s1.postimage.org/vqrdqszo/SDC10701.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/vqrdqszo/)
front dive planes in position also wtc end plate in position
(http://s1.postimage.org/vqznfjgk/SDC10702.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/vqznfjgk/)
wtc rear end plate in position and also prop shaft support
(http://s1.postimage.org/vr69kxfo/SDC10703.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/vr69kxfo/)
rudder and rear dive plane linkages in place and lead ballest in loose position ready for ballancing
(http://s1.postimage.org/vrwq6hc4/SDC10704.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/vrwq6hc4/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/vs6nekas/SDC10705.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/vs6nekas/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/vsjvpc90/SDC10706.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/vsjvpc90/)
battery and end stop in position
(http://s1.postimage.org/vt8orjno/SDC10707.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/vt8orjno/)
front velcro wtc hold down strap in place
continued..........
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have you managed to get a leveller? if so which one did you buy and where did you get it
I have an old spirit one but don't know if it works. Bill
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going to give it a go without a leveler at first i fancy the chalange :o
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Making me jealous. Looking good, you don't hang about with the building! Is cutting the slots out making you psychotic yet? %% Keep the pics coming, regards, Dave. :-))
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going to give it a go without a leveler at first i fancy the chalange :o
You can run without a leveller, but you won't run as well. Basically running without a leveller is a little like flying a model aeroplane nice and level six inches off the deck- possible but quite difficult and you need a great deal of concentration.
For levellers, I always recommend microgyro's. Not sure about current availability, Mike is swimming in ESC's at the moment (also excellent)!
http://www.microgyros.com/model_submarine_electronics.html
Other makes are Subtech
http://www.subtech.co
Engel
http://www.engel-modellbau.eu/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=2_87&products_id=621
Norbert
http://modelluboot.de/Elektronik/LageBriefmE.html
Christian Feldmann
http://momo.tsmw.de/cms/index.php?id=11&L=3
Andy
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Thanks for the links andy have you by any chance watched me with a model airplane flying streight and level at a hight of 6 inches PHttttt bang crunch {-) flew helicopters a long while ago now that was bl**dy hard O0
will probably end up spending more money on a leveler anyway could always ask father Xmas :-))
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Few more pictures of my build
(http://s3.postimage.org/247nmejt0/SDC10710.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/247nmejt0/)
top hull hold down bolt
(http://s3.postimage.org/247u8jxs4/SDC10712.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/247u8jxs4/)
Pod and upper fin fixed in place will be fitting brass rings to air release holes in top of pod
(http://s3.postimage.org/248arxepw/SDC10713.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/248arxepw/)
just another angle on the pod and rear fin
(http://s3.postimage.org/248mcou6c/SDC10714.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/248mcou6c/)
two forward servos fitted top is for forward dive planes lower is to control the dive pump with the cam on the top of the servo
(http://s3.postimage.org/248w9wx50/SDC10715.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/248w9wx50/)
two rear servos top is for rear dive planes lower is for rudder control
more to follow.....................................
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A few more pics for you to peruse
Periscopes mostly done just need to sort out one more ................
(http://s3.postimage.org/18hlqsav8/SDC10717.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/18hlqsav8/)
Navigation lights in position and working got to sort out a couple of reed switches for on/off ops
(http://s3.postimage.org/18i5l8gsk/SDC10725.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/18i5l8gsk/)
The third pic is similar to the one above but you can just make out the orange strobe light striking up
not sure if this light is in the correct place but it looks good
(http://s3.postimage.org/18ih5zw90/SDC10726.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/18ih5zw90/)
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Looking good so far :-))
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Got the Top and Bottom catch done was not a simple job in the end what I did was fix the bottom clip in place with resin waited for it to set then fitted the top clip to the bottom clip
I then ran a piece of insulation tape around both the clips. I then taped the top and bottom edges of the hull to catch any resin drips from the next step while the two clips were held together
by the tape I ran resin onto the edge of the top clip support plate then carefully lowered the top hull onto the bottom hull using tape on the outside to hold everything together
I hope that makes sense
here is the end product anyway it all works as its supposed to and holds the front hull top to the bottom
(http://s3.postimage.org/1c1v799ms/SDC10728.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1c1v799ms/)
this is the bottom clip
(http://s3.postimage.org/1c45w4mbo/SDC10730.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1c45w4mbo/)
this is the top clip
more to come at a later date
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Forgot to mention that when the resin is dry you need to borrow a long knife (carving) while her indoors aint looking slip the said knife between the top and bottom hull joint and cut the insulation tape you can then check the ops of the catch
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finally got some enthusiasm as the snow melts. Ballasting went well and now have to weigh all the add on bits such as steel drills etc to replace them with pucker lead ballast. very impressed. Bill
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Nice bath.
Is the second pic with the ballast tank empty or does she sit higher up in the water than that?
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With the ballast used and the boat surfaced at picture 2 took 15 secs to submerge so probably too much ballast. I will need to experiment.
Picture 3 after 10 secs of pump!!!
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my instructions say the waterline should be 2 1/2 inches above top/bottom hull join so too much ballast.
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Hi Bill, she should go down in around 30 secs from fully blown on a fully charged battery.
If you want to get the ballast about right, take some out, fully pump the tank with water, (give it around 40 secs) and close the valve. You will find she is still sitting on the surface due to too little ballast so start putting some in until she just sinks to the bottom. Add a little more so she is just a little heavier. Once you have done this, blow the tank and she will surface. Leave her for around 40 seconds to ensure the tank is completely blown and where she sits on the surface now will be your waterline. ... simples!! You should now find you have around 30secs dive time when the pump is operated again
She's looking good old chap.
Regards.
Chris
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Ok finaly got my Akula wet for real today followed Chris`s instructions and purfik submerged all the way to the bottom of the sea sorry sorry meant bath all i have got to do now is put a bit of deck detail and then onto the paint job
few pics now of the sub in the bath a bit earlier today
(http://s1.postimage.org/7748p5fo/SDC10747.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/7748p5fo/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/77auujes/SDC10749.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/77auujes/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/77ks2mdg/SDC10751.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/77ks2mdg/)
the LED lights run of a seperate battery pack along with the strob light which was obtained from a promotion board from Boots batterys are 3 watch batterys total 9 volts switching them on and off from a pair of reed switches and a magnet
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A couple more pic`s of the Akula with some deck detail the detail was found on different pictures on the net and then a guestimate made as to how big/small where they should be was made
will be bath testing again today just to fine balance the sub before the paint job I will have to warm the shed up a bit for the spraying
(http://s3.postimage.org/hkdjj3b8/SDC10769.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/hkdjj3b8/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/hkqrtv9g/SDC10770.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/hkqrtv9g/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/hl0p1y84/SDC10771.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/hl0p1y84/)
and may I take this oppertunity to wish one and all a very merry Christmas and all the best for the new year, may your god be with you.
Mark
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reballasted to get the boat to float at the correct depth. Tape indicates 21/2 inches up from hull join. Took 50 secs to submerge completely. White band is a rubber band to hold any lead ballast on.Bill
AK1,2 and 3 ..ready to dive
AK4 after 50 secs
HAPPY NEW YEAR ONE AND ALL
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HAPPY NEW YEAR to You All my Friends!.
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I hope this works because its the first time I have ever uploaded anything to YOUTUBE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tU9UE04Hoc8 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tU9UE04Hoc8)
Sheerline Akula ballasted so full submerge takes 30 seconds as chris`s recomendation sub seems to take a nose down attatude when submerged think I need some of that foam
that mankster mentions in his instructions but I dont know where to get it or waht to ask for so any help on this foam would be greatfuly recieved
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Hi,
Video is great. excellent finish. Yours appears to sit a bit lower than mine so suspect it may be overballasted. Look at picture 3 to see where the water is relative to the front planes.
Mine submerged like yours till I opened out the air hole on the top of the sonar bulb above the rudder which cured it.
Bill
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Yeh Bill I noticed that yours sits a bit higher I have re-checked Chris`s instructions earlier in the thread and from fully blown to fully submerged takes dead on 30 Seconds if i take lead out then the sub takes longer to dive as to the sonar bulb I opened out extra holes pluse the rear of the bulb is open to water as well I think that the holes I have in the bulb maybe need opening out a lot more than they are to overcome surface tension preventing the air escaping
Regards Mark
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First sailing today only one photograph
(http://s3.postimage.org/1iqcunwsk/SDC10775.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1iqcunwsk/)
then she promptly sank dont know why but she did. Thanks to the guys at New Brighton pool who had a rope with hooks on the end. I had the sub on the end of the rope at least twice, when the sub surficed all by herself
even without an input from the radio which was turned off anyway.
anyway very eventful first time out sub recoverd and seems none the worse all dry, all working, is a bit of a puzzle but but sub safe now will try again once I get over this man flu
(http://s3.postimage.org/1isz4aoxw/SDC10790.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1isz4aoxw/)
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looks the business. Did you have a failsafe fitted or did it just surface as the air pressure emptied the tank through the not quite sealed valve?
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foolishly no failsafe and no leak through from the valve dont know what happend but am going to be fitting a failsafe as soon as now may also try to persuade the wife to build our own olympic pool in the garden O0
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at least the design failsafe of a slight, unperceptable leak through the valve brought the boat up. Any ideas why it we down to begin with? any water inside the WTC or just fouled something underwater. You must be keen in these temperatures! Our pond still has the remains of the ice.
Bill
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went down on activation of radio command did all the poolside checks and range check no problems when commanded to surface nothing at all after about 5 mins i asked if any of the other boaters had a rope with a hook luckily one was forthcoming downt know if it fouled on the bottom but new brighton is a new pool but anything is possible any way after about half hour boat surfaced itself I got home and checked everything over WTC is bone dry all functions work valve is working as it should I am thinking Davy Jones lives at the bottom of the new lake at new brighton O0 {-) {-)
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from what i've read and i'm sure mankster or subculture willl confirm or dismiss (they have more knowledge than me) water temperature has a big affect on bouyancy/ballast.
so could just be down to the temp.
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Cold water is denser so your sub would have been more bouyant when you trimmed her in the bath. So the only options are radio/electrical failure or it was caught up in something.
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thanks for the replies guys i think I am going to put it down to being caught on something on the bottom only because, when she did come up all electrics / radio controls were working fine only other thing I can think of after reading on here about salt, and particles, is that the water is realy rotten at new brighton full of swan muck and lumps of bread maybe just maybe that contributed to loss of radio signal to the sub, water was only 36" deep and you couldn`t see the bottom.
once again thanks for the replies
Regards Mark
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If you haven't got a failsafe fitted, you should have. Ideally you want a failsafe fitted to the throttle/ESC and the ballast tank pump controller, however at the very least have one fitted to the latter.
Not all failsafes are equal. The ones you find at the local model shop will be aimed at flyers, and the failsafe kicks in instantly (or within a second or two- depends on the make/model). This is okay for the throttle, but with ballast tanks on submarines you don't really want this, you want a delay of several seconds, as signal glitches are quite the norm with subs, and you don't want to keep having to re-trim your boat.
Subtech do a good standalone failsafe, the FS1, which has a delay of 7 seconds before the failsafe activates- http://subtech.co/acatalog/SubTech_-_Products.html
Get yourself an AL5 leveller whilst you're at it, and you're cooking on gas.
One last thing, some receivers have pulse conditioning, which means they will continue to put a pulse out to the servos even if they're not receiving a signal from the TX. These won't work with external failsafes. PCM receivers are similar.
Andy
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Thanks for that Andy both items have just been ordered and will be fitted as soon as they arrive
Regards
Mark.
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Sorry Mankster but do`s that mean that my bath water would be colder then the pool and that I should warm the bath water up a bit to make it less bouyent,
also gyronuts could you do me a favour and weigh your sub I think that if my bath water was to cold and to buoyent then my sub is far to heavy and I should take some lead out
I cant get my sub to sit as high as yours do`s Bill, if I do by removing lead then she won`t submerge.
also I dont have any foam in the sub I dont know if this will make any differance or is foam only helpful when the sub is suberged to help keep the hull level
Regards Mark.
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i am away from home at the moment but will weight it at the weekend. I removed quite a bit of lead to go from 10 secs to submerge to about 50 secs. Bill
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Hello Mark.
Don't put any foam in your boat, it doesn't need it! 30 secs dive time is about right for the Akula if the ballast tank is empty when you start off. Also, when initially setting the boat up, the battery should be absolutely fully charged and the tank completey empty. Take note in the instructions regarding water temperature. If you plunge you nice room temperature sub into a cold bath, the air in the ballast tank also cools... and contracts. This will cause a partial vacuum and as soon as the ballast valve is opened (it may already be anyway) the contracting air will draw water into the tank without even running your pump. You will now already have a load of artificial ballast on board, if this is the case get rid of it (see instructions) and start your ballasting with an empty tank.
The codler the water, the higher out of the water a boat will sit but the difference between a cold bath and the pond water would not make for any noteable difference on your sub
Re your sinking: By all means fit an electronic failsafe, it gives added piece of mind but your example of the value of a 'designed in' ballast valve leak is a shining one. If you had suffered total power failure the electronic failsafe would be as much use as a chocolate frying pan but there is no escaping the value of a valve leak... it'll blow your tank regardless. The only thing to watch for is that you don't make it too large otherwise you will be continually on the pump trying to keep the boat submerged when running normally. A very very slow dripping tap is about the best rate for the leak to lose ballast water.
It might be worth checking your cam where it rotates against your microswitch for the pump. If it is set up to close to the operating arm of the switch, it may very well have kept the pump running and held the boat down.
Worth checking.
Full medals for braving the cold!
Hope you iron out your teething troubles soon, give me a call if you need assistance.
Happy new year to you and yours.
Chris
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Sorry typo. Cold water is denser so a sub will be more bouyant. If you have trimmed your sub in the bath to be neutrally bouyant (with the ballast tank as full as it can be), you might find that the sub is still positively bouyant with balast tank full at the pond (and you will need to add small bits of lead to retrim). If your just running the pump in short bursts till the sub 'looks right' then it does not matter too much.
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Hi Mankster.
Happy new year! Hope to see you at the pondside again this year.
Chris
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Mark...all your pictures have fell off the wall over at the forum..what you done?
Rich
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Sorry Rich explanation on the forum now
Regards Mark
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One more Picture of my Akula now with what I think are the rear escape hatch highlighted and also what I think is a rescue buoy now painted red and white
(http://s1.postimage.org/20ci98chw/SDC10795.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/20ci98chw/)
also got my U47 in the backgroung
all I need to obtain now is the white depth markings for the Akula if anyone know`s where these can be got from I would be greatful for the address web site or phone number
regards Mark
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One more Picture of my Akula now with what I think are the rear escape hatch highlighted and also what I think is a rescue buoy now painted red and white
(http://s1.postimage.org/20ci98chw/SDC10795.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/20ci98chw/)
also got my U47 in the backgroung
all I need to obtain now is the white depth markings for the Akula if anyone know`s where these can be got from I would be greatful for the address web site or phone number
regards Mark
Hi Mark,
BECC do a set of white, metric hull markings in 1:100 scale which are printed on a vinyl carrier film. I have used these on my Red October sub and the only battle I had was hiding the glossy sheen of the vinyl. If your model is still in the gelcoat finish this shouldn't be a problem.
www.becc.co.uk
Alan..
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Thanks for that Alan I am about 20 mins from 2 of the stockists so i will be getting sorted on Saturday so one again thanks very much
Regards Mark
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Nice ship. I've done the one from SCALE SHIPS. It's 1/96. Perhaps you can get from Vladimir the decals he prepares for his AKULA. They're dry transfer. His web site is: http://www.scaleships.biz/
Regards from Madrid.
Juan Carlos.
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First sailing today only one photograph
(http://s3.postimage.org/1iqcunwsk/SDC10775.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1iqcunwsk/)
then she promptly sank dont know why but she did. Thanks to the guys at New Brighton pool who had a rope with hooks on the end. I had the sub on the end of the rope at least twice, when the sub surficed all by herself
even without an input from the radio which was turned off anyway.
anyway very eventful first time out sub recoverd and seems none the worse all dry, all working, is a bit of a puzzle but but sub safe now will try again once I get over this man flu
(http://s3.postimage.org/1isz4aoxw/SDC10790.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1isz4aoxw/)
Hi.
If i might offer some advice if the boat does not come up again please do not turn the transmitter off as this may send the boat off on its own as the problem may not be the signal getting through if you do this and the speedo doesnt shut down then you will loose the boat as it will go off in any direction that it wants. ALWAYS ALWAYS do a static test dive on EVERY visit to the pond at the poolside within arms reach to ensure all is well and ensure that the speedo you have chosen will shut down when signal is lost. And ALWAYS fit a failsafe. if you have lost signal then the failsafe will kick in anyway as will the speedo failsafe. without turning the tranny off but if its not then it may well go as above unless the above has been done.
regards. sub.
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Thanks for the response Sub driver failsaif is on its way along with a leveler. As this was the first time at the pond all test were done at the side if the pond including a first time static dive to about 6" below the surface with all forward,reverse, rudder ops and dive surface ops checked radio was turned off for approx 30 second the turned back on approx 40 mins in total sub surfaced by itself more or less where it had been put in the pond. thinking about it now it is possible that their was radio interferance at the pond as this has happend before with my U47 persons turning radios on without checking or looking for flag numbers
Regards Mark
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hi mark. that is exactly why you shoulnt turn your tx off. if its underwater 30 secs is a long time for your sub to travel whilst under someone elses signal into gawd knows what. regards sub.
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Hi.
If i might offer some advice if the boat does not come up again please do not turn the transmitter off as this may send the boat off on its own as the problem may not be the signal getting through if you do this and the speedo doesnt shut down then you will loose the boat as it will go off in any direction that it wants. ALWAYS ALWAYS do a static test dive on EVERY visit to the pond at the poolside within arms reach to ensure all is well and ensure that the speedo you have chosen will shut down when signal is lost. And ALWAYS fit a failsafe. if you have lost signal then the failsafe will kick in anyway as will the speedo failsafe. without turning the tranny off but if its not then it may well go as above unless the above has been done.
regards. sub.
Wise words that I was shown to do by sub driver and saved my Vanguard, failsave fitted and tests done every time.
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I know I shouldn`t turn the Tx off before the Rx but desperate times desperate measures apart from going for a wade in freezing cold water they was not a lot more to do. Anyway all turned out fine in the end cost me a bit of cash which yes I conceade I should have spent in the first place (for a failsafe). I will be trying again this weekend either at New Brighton or Hoylake. getting myself a long line with some big hooks on it just in case O0 hopefully all will work well pictures and video to follow..........
Regards Mark.
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just a thought if the two ponds are not that deep try fastening some line around the wtc up through a hole in the top hull with a small fishing float attached to it then if you get into trouble and until the bugs are sorted and its all running reliably you will be able to find the boat from the float and pull the line and up she comes. fishing line is thin but very strong.. just a thought.. happy sailings.. sub.
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good idea sub driver will be doing that :-)) but only as a temp measure until the bugs are ironed out. not good to advertise position of sub with targets about {-)
Regards Mark
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yeah know what ya mean.. skimmers are a pain you can always tell them you have raised the communications bouy..... :}
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That sounds like a good yarn will give it a try. I am going to try and make the next sail in you guys are having in Feb so I may be able to pick up a few more tips then like should I have my bow a stern planes on a y lead or operate them seperatly??
Regards Mark
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Separate is better.
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O.K. but why could you explain in simple terms that is
Regards Mark.
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In a model sub with independent for and aft planes, rear planes are used to contol pitch (with a pitch Controller fitted) and fore planes are used to control depth. Leave the Rear planes to be controlled automacially by the picth controller and just play with the fore. For planes work best at slower speed. Even on my subs with working from planes I, I dont bother with controlling then, just let the pitch controller work the rear and overide via the transmitter as needed.
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i do the same as mankster most my subs have the front planes locked off and do the same as m
ankster.
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Dare I raise the question of sail mounted foreplanes on modern boats?
My new LA class has high mounted forward planes, right up on the sail...so what's the best plan with that setup? I can make them operational if needs be without too much trouble, but I'm wondering if it's worth it? I guess they would have an effect once the boat is submerged, although having said that, my SLEC/Engel Patrick Henry had fixed sail mounted foreplanes, and she'd run all day at periscope depth without so much as a twitch.
What do you reckon Ramesh/Sub...make them operational on a separate channel and leave the leveller to take care of the rear planes?
Rich
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Thanks for the explanation Mankster will do away with my y lead then and when my leveler gets here conect it to the rear planes
Regards Mark.
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Richard, I'd leave them fixed or move them to the bow (and call it a Flight III LA Class) if you want to make them operational.
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Thanks Ramesh...I may just move them down to the bow section.
Rich
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hi rich its a bit of a faff getting the sail mounted planes to work. it can be done with belcranks etc but imo not worth it. as ramesh says the " improved class " of la subs had the planes mounted on the bow . this made them more ice friendly too. its personal choice if you want them functional but then you will have another hole in the wtc to look after and ensure water integrity.. regards sub.
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Good point Sub..maybe I'll just leave things as they are for the time being, I've never bothered before with the things.
Cheers,
Rich
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Ok was at the pond today got a few pictures and a bit of video will put the pics on here video will be on youtube later had a good run with the sub but guess what this week she didnt want to submerge couldn`t find out why at the pond side but when we got home I found the problem after 15 mins of head scratching I had inadvertantly caught a toggle switch on the top of the radio which turns off the channel I am using for diving the boat. although the radio is on the 40Mhz band it still has switches on it labled as ail gear and flaps will be removing the offending switch and tucking it away inside the radio housing. Got me to thinking maybe this was the problem last time out switch turnes off no control of that channel sub stays down...... ah well now on to the pics
(http://s2.postimage.org/1q3vqxdwk/SDC10808.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1q3vqxdwk/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/1q45o5gv8/SDC10810.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/1q45o5gv8/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/26bi529j8/SDC10812.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/26bi529j8/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/26bvdd1hg/SDC10799.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/26bvdd1hg/)
All pictures courtesy of the wife
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She looks good Mark, real good. You wait until I get my LA done...shame it's such a long way up to your lake, we could have had our own Crimson Tide remake!
Rich
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Ok Video now up at You tube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c2as3JS00dY
Regards Mark
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sailed mine at Norwich last saturday. very pleased. White band is a large elastic band but it makes the sub easier to see underwater.
I do not have a leveller fitted and the front planes operate off a rotating knob so only for trim.Bill
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Oh Oh. found a small amount of water in the front compartment. Must recheck the seals!! Bill
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Hi Bill.
At arrival at the pond, make sure you put a couple of bike pump's of air in the unit before sailing, it'll show up any leaks as air bubbles when you put the boat in the water. You may find you need to give the dive unit retaining nuts a slight tweak as the end cap seals may have settled, it's usual practice to re-check them after a short while with a new build.
Regards.
Chris
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you are of course correct I forgot to pressurise the WTC. Bill
the video http://www.youtube.com/user/gyronuts#p/a/u/0/QGzO0aA9i6g
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That blue tinted water does look peculiar. Seems to be doing the trick with the weed though.
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Looks realy sweet Bill. I wish that the water at New Brighton and Hoylake was as clear as that
Regards Mark
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Was out on Sunday at New Brighton had a good couple of hours with the AKULA running really sweet few of pics for your perusal
(http://s1.postimage.org/2om1ot490/SDC10828.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2om1ot490/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2om4zvt8k/SDC10849.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2om4zvt8k/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2omd9kjpg/SDC10871.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2omd9kjpg/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2omi86l6s/SDC10872.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2omi86l6s/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/2oms5eo5g/SDC10868.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2oms5eo5g/)
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Looking good Mark...very good indeed.
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new masts fitted. They are floats from the fishing shop. Bill
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Where do you keep the maggots? %%
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never mind the maggots have you seen the size of the magic mushroom in the pic what a smoke that would be ha ha ha
Mark
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I see, so you can get stoned whilst fishing too!
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some more shots of the boat.
Still have a slight leak in the front compartment.
Bill
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Hi Gyro.
If you have given the dive unit a slight positive pressure with your bike pump and found no visible leaks around the unit, the only other way you can get any water in there will be a slight 'nick' in the silicone ballast tank feed pipe. This can occurr when the pipe is initially pushed onto the brass tank fitting, the tube can be damaged right next to the edge of the pipe so it's worth checking this. if this is found to be the case, simply chop the tube at this point and carefully re-fit it.
Because the pump line is a high pressure feed, it exceedes the light pressure you have in the dive unit compartments and therefore will deposit water there when the pump is run.
Regards.
Chris
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Very good advice from Chris.
I must admit I've dropped the bike pump now and use my lungs. I always carry them with me!
Might just be me, but I was always slight worried about over - pressurizing things with a bike pump?
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I also use my lungs on my U47 due to the location of the valve on said submarine but when it comes to the Akula I always give her 3 squirts with a mini bike pump wait for about 30 seconds then depress the valve to release a bit of the pressure then away we go into the water and touching wood here never had a problem can go back to the pond the following weekend and the boat still has plenty of pressure in her for that sailing got to say dont be afraid of using a pump just be aware of how many time you pump yer pump and just make sure you havent over presuured her by releasing a bit works for me and my Akula 2011 model
Regards Mark
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I had a telephone call from one of my old clients the other day, he is a submariner and had bought a Trafalgar class sub from me about three or four years ago. He took it with him to the deep dive test tank and whilst practicing escape drills took it down to thirty feet (you read it correctly).. thirty feet!! She came up slowly to begin with and on removal and inspection was found to be dry as a bone inside.
Now thats what I call a well built boat but I definately wouldn't recommend you try this at home!! %)
I would stick to the bike pump as a pressurising medium, the air you pump into the dive unit will be less moist than that which emanates from your lungs so you would be much less likely to get misting on the inside of the clear end caps.
I also wouldn't recommend using the lungs method with a heavy cold!!!!! :embarrassed:
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the designer of the U47 could never of thought of a bike pump to presure the sub I say this because their is 2 screws to undo then a strugle to get a bike pump onto the valve on my U47 I have a piece of silicon tube from the valve to a hollow rivet where the exhaust outlet would be I put a peice of brass tube with silicon tube attached and blow until pressured seems to work for me (photos to follow) as long as you let the boat air out when you have finished as you say chris this stops damp or even a build up of condensed water. Would be a bit of a b**l ache to strip U47 down at the pond to pressure here where as the design of the AKULA allows pump pressurisation at the pool side no problem
Regards Mark
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Thank you all.
I am reassured.
Now where is that bike pump!
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You tube link to my AKULA running with no problems what so ever leveler working grate periscope depth just right and a nice feather wake made up
ohh yeah just a bit of pump pressure in the wtc lol
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V-I-_qyY9pU
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Looks like she sails very well and stable. I am thinking about getting this kit or an Engel Akula/Lafayette kit. Where is that boating pond is you dont mine asking?
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http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=28299.0 (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=28299.0)
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Looks like she sails very well and stable. I am thinking about getting this kit or an Engel Akula/Lafayette kit. Where is that boating pond is you dont mine asking?
The pond is the new one at New Brighton been open a few months now
Regards Mark
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Bit to close for a torpedo launch I think
http://youtu.be/lSRCoivA_uQ