Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Yachts and Sail => Topic started by: Geoff Cropper on November 17, 2010, 09:23:48 pm
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My latest attempt at making 1/600 scale tall ships, I'm working on a 4 masted cape horner - Moshulu - at the moment.
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Geoff
Very nice models... I used a similar technique when I used to build ships in bottles... my poor old hands hold a protest meeting and go on strike these days if I work on something so small . Carry one the good work
Freebooter
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Thanks mate, I couldn't put ships in bottles, my eyes and hands aren't to good these days, so I made the ships a bit bigger. The painting's not great though so don't look too close. I searched high and low for fluffless thread for the rigging. Any ideas at all? I'll post up the 4 master when it's finished. Kind regards Geoff.
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Geoff when rigging aerials on my frigate I used strong thin cotton rubbed down with a thin pva glue/water mix, put on with
finger and thumb which you rub down the cotton and it smooths the loose fibres and the glue mix dries them in place.
To dry (about 30 mins) I hang them up in 3 to 4 ft lengths with a small weight on the end and they dry straight and slightly stiff.
I will doing the same on my present build for aerials and funnel wire stays.
Geoff
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Thanks for that, funnily enough, thats exactly how I did the rigging on my r/c schooner but it looks a bit lumpy at 1/600 scale. I've also tried beeswax but thats a bit hard for the job.
(http://s3.postimage.org/12x15tn7o/P6030038.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/12x15tn7o/)
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When I was building ships in bottles I used "Silko sewing thread " and rubbed it with Bees wax and then pulled the thread between two bits of old toweling (Held in my hand) dampend with white spirit this seemed to work very well.. some of mine are in various museams and are more than 35 years old with no trouble with the rigging
For larger models I use this company in China (100 yard bobbins of braided waxed line .5mm .8mm 1.0mm 1.5mm 2.0mm 2.5mm and so on ...Price $6 to $11 delivery 4 or 5 working days {40 different colours}) Check their catalogue on the web
PandaHall@PandaHall.com
5th Floor East, 25 Building,
Central District of High-tech Industrial Park,
Shen Zhen City, Guang Dong Province, China
ZIP: 518057
Tel: 0086,755,86329526
Freebooter
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Thanks for that, funnily enough, thats exactly how I did the rigging on my r/c schooner but it looks a bit lumpy at 1/600 scale. I've also tried beeswax but thats a bit hard for the job.
This may be a dumb question, ( :embarrassed:) Did you heat the wax? For thread look in your local tackle shop for fly tying thread (available in a few grades, stands up well to beeswax).
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Thanks, I'll try that. And thanks Boys for all your help. Regards Geoff.
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(http://) Here's a few more pics of my small fleet. Some will be going as Christmas presents I think. Cheers, Geoff.
(http://s1.postimage.org/27m1dyt1g/PB120005.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/27m1dyt1g/)
(http://s1.postimage.org/27mbb6w04/PB180011.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/27mbb6w04/)
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(http://s1.postimage.org/27okciw78/PC110068.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/27okciw78/)
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(http://s1.postimage.org/27ovxabno/PC110072.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/27ovxabno/)
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I have only just seen this posting. If you use fine copper wire for rigging, you can make a very good job with no messing about with knots. Take short length of fine copper wire and stretch it slightly with two small pairs of pliers. This will make it go perfectly straight. Measure the length you require on the model with a pair of dividers and cut wire to length. Pick up in centre with fine pair of tweezers and dip each end in glue. Simply place the wire in position on model.
When I decsribe this method, 99% of modellers just decided that they could never do it and therefore never even try. I assure you it is very simple.
Bob
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Hi Positive
It sounds wickedly simple to me.
Where do you source your copper wire? Do you rip it out of old domestic appliance wiring, or other?
If so, do you have a preference (5A, 13A)?
What glue do you use, UHU type?.
TT
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It is simple! For a long time, I found the hardest part was picking the wire up with tweezers. Now I have a small blob of plasticine (about size of match head) on end of cocktail stick. I lift the wire off the table with that and then grab it with the tweezers.
I use 0.1mm black enamelled wire obtained from www.wires.co.uk
For some time I have used Bodloc Contact Adhesive obtained from Maplin as glue. I have recently started using Gorilla Superglue. Normal Gorilla glue is no good for this sort of thing because as it dries, it froths up. Gorilla Superglue does not froth up!
Bob
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Nice Models both of you.
Jimmy
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Very well done by you both.
Even though I have trouble seeing my bigger models, just may have a shot at a little one myself.
Thank you positive for your excellent suggestions re rigging.
But first I have to go get a better magnifying sheet to help me see
Keep up the good work
kiwi
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I don't use any special magnifying aids other than reading glasses. A steady hand is most important though. I am 66, so not exactly in the first flush of youth, but I find builing miniatures keeps the eyes exercised.
Bob
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Hi Bob,
Being only a few years younger than yourself, I admire your skills. I've been a design Draughtsman all my life, firstly on the board then on computer, and unfortunately my eyesight has noticeably worsoned over the last 10 years or so. To the extent that I can no longer focus on tiny objects I'm trying to work on, so for these I have a freznell magnifying sheet which I work under for fine work and painting of small items and people. I also wear glasses to see far objects and driving.
Normal work is ok, ie on the screen and upto a couple of metres, less or more than that all fuzzy.
Will have a go at a tiny ship though, as have always admired them.
Thanks again for your posts, and hope you continue to do so
regards
kiwi
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Here is my latest - PRIMROSE HILL, four-masted barque. Coming along well. But another unpopular subject amongst model shipbuilders.
Bob
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HI Positive,
Another beautiful model extremely well executed. Love the fine detail like the handrails, and those shroud / ratlines, do you do them the same way. ie with the fine wire, and you must use a jig to get them so even.
I do like your choices of the 'different', not popular ships you model, and I tend to model boats not modeled before, but I do have the odd popular one.
We are moving house very soon, and once settled in will have a shot at a small ship, not sure which yet but have a few possibilities in mind
thanks again
kiwi
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hi such a great talent, bit small for me to model , same problem as kiwi ok2 LARRY W.
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Here is my latest - PRIMROSE HILL, four-masted barque. Coming along well. But another unpopular subject amongst model shipbuilders.
Bob
Hi Positive
Unpopular is a word that comes with baggage. It is not that people don't like these ships. I think most people think it is beyond their capability to build, and that they are not easy as working models. Hence the ubiquitous fore and aft rigged one or two masters.
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I have never really understood why so many modellers don't think they have the skill necessary to build miniatures. When I first saw some of the famous Donald McNarry miniature ships in 1968, I thought they were amazing and wondered how he did them. I made it my business to find out and changed from 8'=1" to 32'=1" literally overnight. From day one, I found them cheaper, easier and more convenient to build (I was at sea at the time).
Even leaving model building aside, there is almost zero interest in iron and steel square-riggers!
The rigging of such miniatures, using the wire method described above, is really simple, but repetitive. I have no fiddly knots to deal with. The copper wire ratlines are just wound on a frame and the shrouds soldered across them. To make a set for one mast takes about 3/4 of an hour. That is lower, topmast and t'gallant mast shrouds & ratlines. The PRIMROSE HILL has about 800 soldered joints in the ratlines on all four masts, but the whole lot only took about three hours, split into three sessions.
Bob
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Hi Positive,
The old Iron and steel square riggers interest me, so I will have a shot at the "Polly Woodside" a preserved iron square rigger preserved in Melbourne Australia.
Went over her only a couple of weeks ago, and am in the process of obtaining copies of her plans.
Thanks for all the tips re miniatures. very much appreciated, so keep the info and pictures coming.
Thanks
kiwi
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This morning, I rigged 54 backstays on the fore, main and mizzen masts (the jigger was completed some days ago). The spreaders have now been cut down to their correct length. The model is now ready to have the yards and square sails fitted. Rigging the backstays was pretty boring stuff and took all morning, so I will be having the rest of the day off to recover.
Bob
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I have now set and rigged the foresail. The main and cro'jack yards, together with their furled sails have also been fitted and rigged. The next nine sails (lower and upper topsails and lower t'gallants, will all be set). Everything above the lower t'gallants (upper t'gallants, royals and skysails) will be furled.
Bob
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It is finished now and in its raging sea.
Bob
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Excellent Bob, I still find your models amazing. :-))
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Bob,
What can I say. Your a master at your chosen field. As soon as we settle in to our new home, will attempt one using your posts as a guide.
Excellent work.
Keep them coming
kiwi
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I'll echo that.
:-)) :-)) :-))
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Hi Everyone. I've finally finished the 4 mast Cape Horner, just needs a case making now. Here's some pic's.
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what do you use for sails ...I used to use cartrage paper
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"Oops! wrong button" Cartrage paper but that was a long time ago and it was a bit heavy. One chap I knew used to use rice paper which looked good but was a bit fiddlie
Jimmy
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Hi Jimmy, The sails are made from ordinary computer printing paper, stuck on the yards with clear nail varnish and curved by pulling the corners (sorry, clews) through tweezers and then put on the yards. Cheers Geoff.
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Hi All, I finally made a case for it. Geoff.
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Nice job :-)) :-))