Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Navy - Military - Battleships: => Topic started by: ggeorge on December 07, 2010, 01:37:30 am
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Hi All,
Glad to be back after a short brake from building and enjoying running my TID tug this summer. Ran great with no problems and now it
on the shelf until next spring. I started a new project a few weeks ago. This is a military subject. The Canadian Corvette K338,
HMCS Lindsay. She was named the town Lindsay which is only a few miles from here. I had a glass fiber hull which would have taken to
much to modify as the Lindsay was built in 1943 and was part of the Increased Endurance Program. This gave her an increased flair and sheer in the bow. Also the stern on the Lindsay is squared off. So I have started by making my own hull and here are a few photos as it stands so far. I will keep you updated as I progress. Winter is here and my shop is the nice way to spend the cold days.
G. George
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K338
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Nice to see you back GG you really set the standard with the TID so Im looking forward the following this build.
Geoff
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Looking good !
What scale are you working at ?
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I'm looking forward the following this build.
Geoff
Me too, Geoff.
Peter.
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Me too, Geoff.
Peter.
The pictures don't do it justice. It looks better in person.
John
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Hi Again.
Here are a few more photos as the hull as I progress. The scale is 1/4in.=1ft. which will make a the model 49in. at the water line and 52. in. overall. I preferr to work in a larger scale but it would make the corvett to large.
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K338
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K338
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Always a shame to cover the wood up! The hull's lovely. :-))
Andy
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...looking good Jerry. :-))
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Work plods along. I have managed to locate the battery and motor and the rudder servol. I am ready to epoxy the upper deck on.
My TID tug has great access when I lift off the super structure but the corvette will not be as good but I think I will have be able to access ill the equipment, time will tell.
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It's starting to look reallly good George - by the way will you be making as many components in brass this time or will it be more wood/plasticard.
Geoff
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Hi All,
Here are a few more photos as I progress. As far as the question regarding the brass. I do not antisipate as much brass as was used on the TID. but there will be some brass work.
All the best to everyone over the holidays And a very merry Christmes to all.
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looking good nice planking and smooth lines lick corvettes good lake boats
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Hello George, another superb build on the way no doubt, must admit I really enjoy looking around your cracking workshop as well, and just love the phone!
would you mind helping to try and educate a late starter re your motor and set up? i.e. what type is it, how did you chose what would be right for the model, it's obviously geared and going to be belt driven I assume, why not direct drive? etc. etc. hope you'll excuse my many questions but I'm quite baffled at the array of motors available and technically quite ignorant with electronics - but I do manage to learn a little along the way.
Looking forward to the rest of the masterpiece, kind regards, Tony. :-))
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Hi Tony,
Sorry I did not get back to you sooner but the holidays have been very buisy. I did manage to get into the shop for a few hours and here are a few photos as the corvette build continues.Motors for model boats are a major topic in itself. I use a variety of moters. In the TID I have a power seat moter which is 12v high torque and low RPM. and direct drive. The moter I am using in my corvette is a 6v Hectoperm.This is a moter I have had for a while and it will suit the corvette. I am using a belt drive because the prop shaft is to low to line up with the moter shaft.I have used tooth belt drives in the past and have worked well and are quiet.
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k338
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Hi All,
Progress plods along. I have been busy with other things and have not spent much tine in my shop lately. But I have got a little work don on the rear gun platform and light platform. We are having our normal winter lots of snow and cold -22c last night. I am ready for a brake. I will have to wait until April as we are going to Florida for that month. As I get more work don on K338 I Will post them.
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K338
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K338
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Hi George Its gone very quiet in Canada - how is the build coming along.
Geoff
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...it must be that he can't hear you, what with all the rivetting going along that hull, hey Jerry, got your snowblower out mate
Robert
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Hi George
Just popping in to say I'll be watching your build and learning as you progress
so thanks for posting it up. I'll be quiet now O0
Dave
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Hi All,
It has been a long time but glade to be back. I have been busy running my boats, a Little bit of traveling down to Florida for a month and up to Labrador and the Trans Labrador Hy way and enjoying my car I built when the weather is good. I did find some time to build a springer tug. I am back on my k338 corvette and have finished plating it with 10 tho. styrene, which worked quite well. Working on the fittings and will keep posted as I continue.
G.George
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k338
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Looking Good Gerry!
You have been busy!
Cheers,
Tom
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those U-boats must be shaking in their tubes now {-)
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Hi Gerry - I am following the plating & the posting string with interest...... O0
1.........0.010" styrene sheet plates....what glue did you use to provide a water proof bond to the wooden & semi filled planked hull?
2.........what is the purpose of the thin green tape strip on the hull?
Derek
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Hi Derek,
The hull was covered with fiberglass before I added the styrene. The styrene plate was sanded with 150 grit paper and ca thick was spread over this sanded area and then the styrene plate was placed in the correct location. I have used this method in the past and has worked well for me. I have never had any problem with water with this method. The green tape is just used to scribe a strait line on the location of the plating. I take points off the drawings and mark these points on the hull and then I use the tape to join these points and scribe a pencil line along the tale which now will give me the plating location along the hull.
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Here are a few photos of the anchor windlass. It is a typical steam operated and built by Clark Chapman Ltd.
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Here are some photos of the finished anchor windlass, all 168 parts . I am now starting on the 4 in. gun. The Landsay had a
4 in. QF Mk XIX in a CP Mk XXIII mounting.
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k338
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George, glad to see you back on the shipbuilding trail again its been a long time since the Tid Tug.
Geoff
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Here are photos of the start of the build of the MK XIX GUN MOUNT.
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youve been busy...mind you don t go out on the lake yet :-))
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Beautiful precision engineering, you are without doubt a top notch craftsmen George and am in genuine awe of your skills - your models ain't bad either {-) {-) {-
Kind regards, Tony. :-))
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Beautiful work as usual... :-))
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looks like its going to be a great build. keep it up :-))
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Hi Again,
Here are a few more photos of the 4in gun as the build progresses and also my helper.
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He doesn't seem impressed with something George....
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k338
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Hi Martin,
The reason he did not seem impressed is that he wants to clime on the boat and I keep putting him down.
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The build plods along.
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Lookin good. You should show the guys the tool you used to rifle the barrel with. :-))
John.
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Looks as if you could ram a shell up the breech and fire it. Very realistic Gerry/george?
Geoff
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Astounding skills, totally amazed at this Gerry.
Tony.
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...do they know that cat is a trained tool and die worker {-), better not let him trip off the Hedgehog, would play havoc with his fur.
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Hi rem, but what a clever pussy with such creative skills! - there's no way I could decipher or understand the drawings in post No. 30 let alone make the bits! one intellectual moggy with the patience of Job me thinks.
Tony. O0 :-))
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Yup, the secret is out Gerry ... now we know who REALLY does all that work in your shop O0
Cheers,
Tom
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Sorry if I'm messing up the thread - will behave from now on, but gorra know, Gerry does that phone work? love it, also Rem what's the bit about the 'hedgehog'?
I'll be quiet now, regards, Tony.
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Hedgehog was the first ahead firing antisubmarine mortar followed by squid and limbo.
Not sure about the phone Tried ringing it but it goes to voicemail %%
Ned
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The Hedgehog http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ps9Sr0HNcp8
Dave
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Are you saying the cat is now out of the bag %) %) %) %) %)
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Hi All,
The cat is Mr.Tibs and he is more a pain in the but than a help. The only tool and die he may get involved is get his tail caught in my lath as he is always around were I am working. If that happins I will send photos.
And Tony feel free to correct any errors as I sent two photos and then resent them by mistake. Also the phone works but is only a reproduction. I am just about finished the 4in. gun and may start the hedgehog next.
[attachment deleted by admin]
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Hullo George....I am little intrigued with the gun mounting..........in image 24 & 26 we see what I believe are two sights on either side of the barrel
On the PORT side we see the hand wheel & shaft going down to the pinion for elevation of the radiused rack........is this simply repeated on the STDB side....or is this side for training [slewing]?
Many years ago I spent considerable time involved with 5"/54 calliber FMC guns on our HMA vessels.......but the elevation & train functions were electro-hydraulic :-))
I look forward to continued build of the mounting & the vessel....Derek
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Sorry George,
I've accidentally deleted some photos, please can you repost them and I'll move back to the right place. :embarrassed:
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Hi Martin,
No problem here are the photos.
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Hi Derek,
What I am going on are drawings in a book on navel weapons of WW II and what I can find on the Internet and I cannot get much detail of the starboard side but the drawings seem to show a wheel and the shaft going down so at this point I am open to any suggestions as changes can still be made at this point.
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George......yes I see the STDB side view now.........with the hand wheel & vertical down shaft
I think it would it would be fair to assume that this STDB wheel would have had an identical drive hand held peg to the elevation wheel
The down shaft would have employed a similar set of 90 degree bevel gearbox/s & meshed up with quadrent rack ring of the train gearing
I also see the train stops in the pedestal just above deck level....from the positioning it appears that the mounting had 180 degrees of train....MINUS the physical length of the center stop block
The fixed stop block would have contained a spring buffer on either side......the moving stop blocks were an earlier method of achieving pointing & non pointing zones [which prevented a silly sailor from firing at the vessel bridge {-)] ......Derek
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Wow spectacular work, about the hedgehogs my Dad had talked about hitting their own mast with them, I believe it was when he was on the HMCS Ste-Therese.
How would that have worked? Were they on the back of the ship firing forward as well? Were they supposed to lower the mast?
Thanks and again you do amazing work.
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Here is an image of a 4"BL Mk. IX mounting on HMNZS Arabisi.......[built as K385]
Plus......http://www.google.com.au/search?q=Flower+class+corvette&hl=en&qscrl=1&nord=1&rlz=1T4ADRA_en___AU369&biw=1536&bih=694&prmd=imvns&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=dUVIT7T3IqKOmQX8872oDg&sqi=2&ved=0CDgQsAQ
Some interesting images of the gun mounting...depicts the train wheel @ 90 degrees or flat to the deck.......
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As Bryan Young recently said in another thread.........
Design was just an evolution with the British Admiralty ....the plans are layed out to be built.....but by the time the building progresses....then so has the design requirement changed
This was also certainly the case with weapons systems.........from the different images...it is apparent that the Flower Class vessels had quite a number of 4"gun mounting variants......
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H.M.A.S. Castlemaine has an Australian Mk. XX111 mounting so I do not know if the photos are appropriate.
I have a few more if they are of use.
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Thanks brianB6.......George may like to see them......but from your photographs ...both the elevation and train hand wheels are clearly shown as both horizontal axis........although HMAS Castelmaine [J244] was built as a Bathurst Class........
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Thanks Brian for the photos. I notice that the port side is missing some of the controls ie.range dials, lalers telescope, deflection dial etc. May not have been on that particular gun.
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HMCS Lindsay
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Here it is painted grey. I still have to do the blast bag and a little more detail and the gun shield will be a mat white when finished.
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I know you had to paint it George
and it looks really great too
but I just loved it in the raw brass
Dave
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It is possible that parts have been removed, either by the Trustees or collectors. <*<
I am sure you must enjoy making parts in brass, as I do. It takes much longer but is very satisfying. O0
As you say Norseman, it's a pity it has to be painted. Maybe the next model should be one where all the brass was polished.
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Here is my compleated 4in. GF Mk XIX in CP Mk XXIII mounting. Will still have to paint the correct colour on shield and weather the gun which will be applied in final painting. On to the next fitting.
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thats a piece of art well done tassie48
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Started the Hedgehog and here is the results so far.
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Here are a couple of photos as i progress on the hedgehog.
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Great detailing Ggeorge
might be something of interest to you on this site
http://www.hnsa.org/doc/index.htm
I was looking at depth charge plans there.
Dave
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Great work on the hedgehog - this is going to be some build
Geoff
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One Hedgehog projectile compleated 23 more to assemble.
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23 more compleated
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Gerry,You don't waste any time do you - lovely precise work.
Geoff
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I just got back on. It must have been a very frustrating week for Martin and much appreciated from all of us. Here are a couple of pix of the finishes hedgehog.
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...doesn't look the hedgehog I found in my front garden last year. {-)
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Here I just put this one togeather. How is this for a scale hedgehog.
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I have started to build the 2pdr Qf Mk VIII pom-pom in single Mk VII mounting. Here are a couple of pix.
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pmsl {-)
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Hi all,
I got part way through building the 2 pdr gun and it just did not look right even with the drawings that state a scale I am using. So after taking measurments I find the gun was too small.
So into my scrap pile. Here are a couple of photos of the new build so far.
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Looks much better.
John
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Yet again it does seem a shame to cover all that beautiful brass work with paint.
Geoff
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Wow!!! Looking forward to seeing the rest of the build.
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Just popping in to say hello and rejoin the thread after the meltdown.
Keep up the good work ....... Ooh, the Hedgehog was a masterpeice
Dave
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Hi Martin,
The reason he did not seem impressed is that he wants to clime on the boat and I keep putting him down.
how any lives does he have now then lol
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Hi again,
I have been busy for a few days but I did get a bit of time on the build. I just have to finish off some more detail and build the ammo box. What I did do was order some photo etched gun sights. Here are the latest photos.
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Here are a few more photos of the nearly compleated gun. I still have to the sights and paint.
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Beautiful workmanship :-))
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Just colour me green George, a deep deep green.
Dave
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I'm very envious of those who can work in brass, sadly I don't have the facilities, the hardware or know-how.
You make it look so easy... good work! :-))
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Give brass a go.
It's not so hard to work. I use a jewellers saw with blades from a jewellers suppliers that are very fine. Size '0' to '2' Buy plenty as they break quite easily. Needle files, fine 6" file.
A good soldering iron is essential, 40 watt is usually enough. 25 watt ones for fine detail, but not essential. I prefer to have a chisel point on one end of the 'bit' and a point on the other. Just make sure that the iron has cooled before changing ends. Ouch!!! <:(
Paste flux on both surfaces and make sure they are very clean. O0
Not to much solder or you will make blobs as it cools to rapidly.
Nice to have a lathe but I use a big electric drill in the vice for turning using a selection of files for shapping. Don't buy K&S rod it is to "hard" to turn. Elecrtical wholesalers can supply some sizes that are used for 'Earths' which I have found to be much "Softer"
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Here is a note from ggeorge on his chosen soldering/build accessories.......I agree with BrianB6.........give brass a go.....Derek
Reply #63 on: January 10, 2010, 08:10:51 PM »
Hi Derek,
I hope the photo will answer your question on the products I use. To sounder a joint I use the liquid flux and brush it on and then I will cut off a small piece of solder and place it on the joint. Now using a small butane torch I will heat the joint away from were I placed the solder and now the melted solder will flow towards the hotter area. If I have other solder joints close by that I am concerned of melting the solder I will soak a small piece of paper towel and place it on that joint. This may not be the best and easiest method of soldering brass but it works well for me. Enjoy your summer down under as we are having our typical Canadian winter.
(http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=13720.0;attach=77798;image)
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Hi ggeorge
Just wondering how the build is progressing?
... Especially any new brass work :}
Dave
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Yes George....where are you?.......I have just realised the significance of your 1948 half penny piece {-) ..... I managed to find an Australian 1954 half penny for my wife [in a curio store in Hahndorf ....Adelaide hills].......but have never found a 1949 minted piece for myself.......... >>:-( <*< ....Derek
(http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=27672.0;attach=107115;image)
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Here is a note from ggeorge on his chosen soldering/build accessories.......I agree with BrianB6.........give brass a go.....Derek
Reply #63 on: January 10, 2010, 08:10:51 PM »
Hi Derek,
I hope the photo will answer your question on the products I use.
Hi
how are you brass-workers drilling 0.3 or 0.5mm holes in brass? I buy non-branded £6-8 hobby drill sets from hobby shops. The set ranges from .3mm to 2mm drills in .5 increments. If I try a tiny drill on brass, if it dosn't snap first, it blunts fairly quickly.
Am I buying cheap drills and a more expensive, better brand set will drill these holes? Or is it asking too much of what are one 'land'/'flute' drill bits?
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Hi Pondweed........
I am far from a competent driller of small diameter holes in brass....but am old enough to know a few tricks
Look up a table for surface cutting speed for brass %) ...you will probably find a calculation for conversion to RPM per diameter
You may well find the recommended RPM for a 0.5mm diameter HSS twist drill is 20,000 RPM O0
You must use a pedestal drill [or a small die grinder with collets......but this MUST be aligned in a vertical press with some form of accurate feed]
Most hobby pedestal drill as fitted chucks go down to say 1.0 mm....so a precision keyless chuck may be required
The work must be adequately supported....with accurately placed centre pop marking in the piece being drilled.........
0.3mm diameter is a very small hole......the smallest holes I have drilled in brass is 0.68mm diameter or 0.027".......& I find these difficult & testing....these are conventional two flute 115 degree included angle drills
I do have experience with single fluted "rifling" drills for deep hole drillings 8,000 mm deep .....but these diameters are 20 mm +.....I have ZERO of knowledge of single fluted fractional mm HSS drill bits......
Now in theory.......brass does not need a cutting compound, however ROCOL general purpose cutting paste will assist :-)) .....good luck.......Derek
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Hi Derek
Your .68mm drill looks to have be single land/flute. No? Appreciate the good, sensible advice. But this is my problem with brass or other metals, mention of pillar drills along with all the other hardware needed to cut, drill and file metal and you're into light-engineering territory whereas I need to do this on a kitchen table. I know some guys fix their motorbikes in the front lounge but this ain't one of those places. :-)
But I'd be interested in others experiences in drilling sub 1.0 mm holes.
P.S. Just mentioning this so we all use the same terminology about drill-bits othrwise this could become messy. :-) When I looked at drill bit terminology last night, the 'flute' or 'flutes' are the grooves up a drill-bit that remove the spoil, the 'land' was the high or full diameter bit of drill that spirals to the point.
Cheers
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Pondweed, rather than go the high speed drill route you could also go via a pin drill by hand - so far I have managed to drill down to .45mm in a 1mm brass tube,
I put the drill bit into the pin drill until only about 1/8 inch is showing and put a very small flat on the brass tube with a jewellers file and if you are
careful( and lucky) the)drill bit does not slip ( and break) but I buy my drill bits in bags of 10 as they don't tend to last long
Geoff.
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Remember reading a modelling tip that if you put tape, clear tape,masking tape, over where you are drilling it will stop the bit wandering, also start with a slow speed then increase once the point has "cut' the surface.
As in all instances a sharp tools cut easier.
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I had a go in brass recently, as i wanted to replace the plastic fantastics version, drilling small holes to pass thread through solid rod, the other holes were through brass tube to pass other tubes through. I enjoyed the build to a certain point - but as a first time try at this, bricked it. The results turned out fine at a distance - especially painted, I used what I had, a 40w soldering iron, a dremel style multi tool and a bosch hand held 14v drill, holding the 1mm drill and above was difficult as it would sometimes jam as the drill became more blunt, soldering was a laugh, the solder I had was some plumbers solder - quite thick but it worked out well with the flux I had bought from Maplins (then found the flux later that I bought for the plumbers solder).
I am in awe at the quality of the craftmanship of george - makes me want to get my old corvette out again and refit her.
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Does anybody know how George is getting on with this model - If it is anything like the Tid Tug he finished a
few years back it will be stunning
Geoff
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Does anybody know how George is getting on with this model - If it is anything like the Tid Tug he finished a
few years back it will be stunning
Geoff
He's slowed down for a bit. I think he has a bit more done than when he lasted posted, but he's taken a bit of time off completing it and doing one or two other projects.
John
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This is an amazing build. Your brass work is taking my breath away.
I especially like your Hedgehog. I was pondering how to approach one for my icebreaker. Now I see how.
Many Thanks
Jonathan
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Hello George, I joined here searching Flower Class Corvette and saw your thread. I am blown away by your craftsmanship. You are very talented individual with some brass and soldering gun. I hope to try this teach myself next summer as i need to start on my FCC 1/72 kit by revell. Well, it seems there has been number of years since your last update, so hope to see what else you might have done your lady. Thank you for sharing your work. ok2
Mike
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Lovely model. Your skills are something for me to strive for.
Thanks for sharing.
Garry