Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Working Vessels => Topic started by: John W E on December 21, 2010, 07:22:28 pm
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Here is a build which I did last year - never did a write up for it - so thought I would post this in pics - plans cames free with Model Boats magazine, a while ago - anyway here we go.
The power plant is a 555 motor on a 7.2 NiCad battery through an ACTion speed controller - a 10 amp one, driving a 4 blade 50 mm brass prop.
aye
john
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more pics
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THE END
aye
john E
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Amazing watching this model come to life !
Wish I had the time and skill to do it !
John
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Well John that looks great, nice to see your build many thanks for posting.
Best regards John B
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That's lovely - thanks for sharing it.
A picture says a thousand words, huh? There's a novel in the above!
Andy
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Hmmm........those RED and BLACK arrows look familiar %) ;) :-))
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Nice one !
Good to see you back :-))
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Hy John
Excellent build as always, you really know your stuff mate.
Bosun
PS, Happy Christmas and have a great New Year
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Best adjective i can come up with is:- Marvellous!!!!
Wishing You and yours Seasons greetings
Tony
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hi Larry w here a very nice build have plan on back burner , all ready built a john pollinger plan of john king ,went well ,
nice to see photo step by step of build its a good help to use beginners .
for info what are bulkhead and keel timbers and plank strips timber , allways looking for easy ways .....cheers Larry w :-))
(http://s2.postimage.org/hdit302s/model_boat_jpeg.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/hdit302s/)
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Thanks for sharing Intel........there are many educational snaps in the build that certainly will be of use to any POF builder be they young or old..... :embarrassed: experienced or new starter >>:-(
I particularly like the improvised method of lofting the height of the bulwarks & the water line on the vessel itself..........congratulations :-)) ......... Derek
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Brilliant :-)) :-))
Larry R.
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A superb model.
Just one question - what timber did you use for the planking?
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Very nice!! We tend to steer towards the glass hulls but you show us how it can be done. I remember that small hand drill and fret saw from my father building sailboats in the 60's - I since jumped ahead to the scroll saw. Thanks for taling the time to take the photos and post them!
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hi ya there one and all
thank you for the comments - to fill a few gaps in the build for those who dont know - the plan comes from Model Boats October 2008 issue - the only comment I can make about this plan and a couple of others which I have built from magazines - is that when they are drawn I would presume they are near enough correct - but when the printer gets their hands on the plans - it may be they are distorted a bit whilst being re-sized to fit the magazine pages etc. I may be wrong but I am sure that is one of the problems. If you have a look at one of the pics - you will see me pointing to a frame which I had to build up; as it was too low - when I was fairing the rest of the frames in.
Materials: The main frames/shadows/sections whatever you may wish to call them are made up of quarter birch ply from Jotika. This may be expensive ply, but, the plus points are that this is ‘true’ 5 ply – meaning there are 5 veneers in its makeup. Also, there are no voids in between the inner veneers which can be found on ‘cheaper’ ply woods – by voids I refer to gaps between the inner layers.
The keel is made up of ¼ inch birch ply.
The planking material is Obechi 1.5 thick x 8mm wide.
If you look on the Cervia build on this forum; (its in the master build class section) the build sequence of this model build follows the Cervia build – in such a way there is a glassfibre/tissue applied to the exterior of the hull. The main difference between the two builds is that the Cervia build used a gear box which was belt driven by MFA – in the drive line (Olympus) and I was asked after the build what would be a suitable motor to direct drive the Cervia tug and on this build I deliberately located a suitable motor from ACTion Electronics which turns out to be a 12 volt 555 motor. When under load driving the 4 blade 50 mm prop she is only drawing 2 amps.
The other part I deliberately changed on this build was the access to the rudder servo. Again, in the Cervia build, if anything goes wrong with the rudder servo/linkage you have to do major surgery to reach the affected parts. But, as you can see on this build I moved the rudder servo forward to make it more accessible when removing the main super structure. If things go wrong with the main tiller connections on the rudder; there is still a little bit of surgery to be done on the deck but can easily be camouflaged by the grating. Hope this is of some help.
Aye
John e
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Another lovely build. ok2 (Any news/info to share on your Surfury?)
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hi ya there
the Surfury has been finished for a while and runs quite perfect I am pleased to say - sad to say there arent any pics left from the build - as I moved on to another build - but - I am posting a picture which is the only one I can find at the min.
Anyhoo on with another Pottinger Plan build 'Angel Emiel' a side trawler.
aye
john
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John,
Just spotted this thread. A beautiful job there amigo. :-)) :-))
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A tremendous model of this unique and famous racer. I do hope you will post your trawler build for us all to enjoy. It's also good to see the Surfury site finally, back online:
http://www.surfury.co.uk/
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Hello Bluebird,
can you confirm the frame that was out and I will check my original.Cracking model.
Jim
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good evening James, and how are you?
On the plans for the Archer I found that it was frames 6 & 7 which would not correspond and I therefore had to alter them. However, after building this one, I went on to build the Sea Lady and once again encountered similar problems with the framing. Upon further investigation though with a club member there is a strong indication that the faults on the plans are indeed a printers fault. This is because several water lines and buttock lines on both drawings do not match up - we came to the conclusion that when you originally drew the plans on your drawing board - they would have been on 2 separate sheets (the full set of drawings). Therefore, when they go to the printers the printer would electronically move the drawn items around on the sheet so they can be located in the finished print and this moving around electronically must distort and mis-size the actual finished item. So, any minor/very small discrepancy on your drawing board would be greatly enlarged when come to print. Maybe a word with Model Boats plans service may be in order.
Kind regards,
John
bluebird
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Hi there Martin and Moderators - has the evil internet devoured all the build photographs from this topic? Cos where day gone?
man I been look for them.
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It does look like it John. :o
Do you still have the originals as it would make for a complete thread.
regards
ken