Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Working Vessels => Topic started by: John W E on December 30, 2010, 08:17:02 pm
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Hi all
This is the new build, a beam trawler, from the free plans in Model Boats magazine. The overall length is about 26 inches which gives it a scale of 1:35.
I have just finished planking the hull and am now at the stage of going to fill the hull with car body filler and then sand the hull to shape and then put a layer of tissue and resin onto the hull for final finishing.
Here’s a picture of the planked hull.
The frames are made up from 5mm birch ply and she is planked with a mixture of obechi/lime 1.5 x 6mm planks
... aye
john
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Got a few photos for you John
(http://www.trawlerphotos.co.uk/gallery/data/1048/medium/sea_lady.jpg)
(http://www.trawlerphotos.co.uk/gallery/data/682/medium/2542.JPG)
(http://www.trawlerphotos.co.uk/gallery/data/682/medium/2531.JPG)
(http://www.trawlerphotos.co.uk/gallery/data/682/medium/100_01231.jpg)
(http://www.trawlerphotos.co.uk/gallery/data/1111/medium/DSC_3542_copy.jpg)
(http://www.trawlerphotos.co.uk/gallery/data/1111/medium/DSC_5794_copy.jpg)
(http://www.trawlerphotos.co.uk/gallery/data/682/medium/Bosloe_Galmpton_Oct_08_012.jpg)
(http://www.trawlerphotos.co.uk/gallery/data/1048/medium/Angel_Emiel.jpg)
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:-))
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Your planking looks good Bluebird.....one consideration could be a layer of glass tissue & resin between each internal frames O0...this adds immense strength & eliminates the 1.6 mm thick planks from flexing when sanding the externals
Naturally it also waterproofs the internals......%% %% - Derek
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hi there,
Mr Tait, I am very grateful for your photographs - they will be a great help. I am in desperate need of photographs of the deck area of the vessel - do you know someone who could give me that information???
On the last photograph Dave has supplied - on close examination you will see a circular hole in the bow - is this hole a chute for discharging fish guts/unwanted fish/undersized fish? Any ideas there??
Derek, to answer your question - I very rarely add matting to the inside of a hull - the only time I do that is when I have planked in balsa wood. I find that just coating the inside with a good coating of pure resin and allowing it to soak into the timbers, adds sufficient strength and stiffness as well as a good water absorbtion barrier. There is very little flex (if any) in the planking on this model, due to 2 factors:
1) the frame spacing is very close together - i.e. within 2 inches of each other
2) with using 6mm wide planks I have a great deal of 'edge bonding' between planks with the glue, which increases the overall rigidity of the plank.
aye
john e
bluebird
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I'll ask some of the guys on Trawlerphotos if they have any detail photos of her deck in a couple of days John.
The hole in the port side you mention is too large to be a cooling water outlet for an engine to drive the bow thruster so even though it looks to be too low down and the wrong shape ( offal chutes are normally square or oblong and set at deck level ) I'd go for an offal chute for putting the guts and discarded fish/shellfish overboard , i'll ask the guys and see if they know
Davie
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hi ya all
Just an update here:
Finished fibre glassing exterior of hull and smoothing down - there are 3 layers of resin - with 1 layer of tissue matt applied to the exterior.
First layer - pure resin - applied to the sanded bare hull and allowed to dry;
Second layer of resin applied along with a layer of tissue matting - and this was allowed to dry
Third layer - final coating of pure resin applied over the top
Allowed to harden for 24 hours to give a workable surface to sand smooth and produce a good finish.
Removed from the building board and the inside has been given a coating of pure resin with a reduced amount of hardner, giving the resin ample time to soak into the timber and all the nooks and crannies and therefore sealing the timber from moisture penetration.
When the resin has eventually gone off - the next stage is to remove the locating lugs off the frames - and then level the deck and bullwarks - and then I will proceed to install the running gear.
Aye
john e
bluebird
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A little more progress – I have been busy building the Kort nozzle and it presented me with a bit of a problem – because of its awkward size in diameter. Normally, I would have used a bit of 3” plastic drainpipe machined to the correct shape and size. This one has an outside diameter/dimension of 68 mm. So, I ended up laminating the Kort from plywood and the procedure I used for this was:
I used a cardboard tube which came from the centre of some knitting yarn which the Mrs is using at the moment. This tube had correct internal dimension required which corresponded with the outside diameter of the Kort nozzle so – this tube became the former for me to build up laminates of 1 mm thick plywood by 30 mm wide by roughly 200 mm long to begin with. The first laminate I applied some cellotape to one side of it to prevent it bonding to the inside of the cardboard tube.
This laminate was placed inside the tube first with no glue on ensuring that the side which had the cellotape on was against the inside of the cardboard tube. The second piece of plywood of similar dimensions, only slightly shorter had the glued to the inner piece of plywood already in the cardboard tube ensuring that the butt joints were opposite each other. Then an assortment of clamps clamping the laminates together – when this had dried, I applied 4 more laminates building up the required wall thickness of the Korts nozzle. This was then allowed to dry out completely and then the cardboard tubing was removed.
I have the facility of a lathe to which I machined the outside/inside angle and polished. This was then given 2 coats of epoxy resin.
For those not having the facility of a lathe – you could make a mandrel up to hold the nozzle and then machine it in an electric drill. From plasticard I also made a double jig up for aligning the nozzle with the prop shaft. Then I located and fixed the nozzle in place using 2 brass pins.
aye
john
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:-))
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Rigs - cheers my mate, can you send these pics (full size) to me email box?
thanks again mate :-)) :-)) :-))
john
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Another Ace build log Bluebird, surprised the wife hasn't told you to sell up some of your builds to create space!
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:-))
well, the Mrs has as much wool stocks as I have models - so when Mrs gets rid of some of that lot, I might consider parting POSSIBLY with some of me models.
Mind you, I did part with a lot of my models before - and was sorely sorry.......mmmmmm thanks for the compliments there. :-))
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Get rid of them again and there is a size ten waiting to kick your a$@e
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ok boss
I will obey your command
and promise to keep em this time :-X and waint sell em off to Brian's cousin & friends
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"Sell" them you practically give them away to that orrible little man
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OKAY OKAY divvent rub it in old boy :embarrassed: %%
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Hi All,
Just an update
The Kort nozzle has now bean fixed in place along with the rudder.
The rudder is made from an off-the-shelf brass rudder which has had the blade cut and shaped to plan profile.Then 1/8 holes drilled through the blade to aid the bonding of the two pieces of 1/8 plywood Epoxied either side of the blade. The ply wood cheeks were then shaped to an aerofoil shape along the length.
The motor mounts were then made up from 1/8 ply and lined up with the prop shaft along with the motor (motor is a speed 500 low drain).
Next to be fitted was the external keel made from plywood and styrene strip glued and pinned to the hull and then the bilge keels were fitted, again made from styrene strip.
aye
john
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A tough of class there Bluebird.
Geoff
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looking goood :-))
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Beautiful work John. Can I come up for a few lessons. A pleasure on the eye. :-))
Ken
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This lovely build is a treat and should be considered for the Masterclass section of the forum - it more than deserves this upgrade. :-)
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hi just a quick update I have removed the remaining frames from around the bulwarks and then proceeded to fit the main deck. I fitted the deck in 3 parts for ease, as you can see. The reason for this was, as well as the deck having a camber (as in bend/hump) in deck, it also has a rake from bow to stern (as in bent upwards). In fitting the deck in 3 pieces allowed the 1mm thick plywood to follow these shapes with ease.
The next stage you will see is that I have lined the inner sides of the bulwarks with 0.5 mm thick plasticard; this serve 2 purposes - main one it neatens up the inside of the planking and it allows me to use plastic evergreen strip to construct the bullwark supports and to glue them solidly to the bullwarks using liquid poly glue. The next thing I did was to make a flush hatch in the middle of the deck so I could fit the main drive battery in this area. It will be camouflaged in later with the deck planking.
Creating a small jig was next out of 1/8 plywood - to enable me to scribe a line on the outside of the hull - level with the deck. ~This line will become the baseline for marking off the openings for the washports in the bullwarks.
aye
johne
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:-))
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You’re making a great job of her John, up to your normal high standard. She will be a nice looking model when finished going of the photos that Davie posted. I have often thought of building a fishing vessel instead of tugs, I might get around to it one of these days.
Brian
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Brian, hi ya,
How ya doing mate, long time no hear from you.
Originally, this build was supposed to be a grey build or an old tramp steamer. I had set my mind on the tramp steamer and then wor Riggers came over here to my house with a few plans ... and Marc showed me the plan for this and said 'what do you think' and to be honest I kept picking the plan up and putting it down and then there is something about the model I like.
So........started drawing the frames out and that is when the problems of many began.
Not one of the frames would line up properly with the side profile plan.
But....the best way I found was to draw all the frames out onto a piece of plywood. When they were on the plywood I thought aye best cut them out and that was the beginning.
Nemesis reckons (that is wor Bill ya nar) I should have doubled the size - 40 odd inches long.... but me not being Popeye anymore and spinach levels at low and well out of stock - there was no way I could ever lift it - if it was 42 inches long......anyhow, I know even at 22 inches long this model is going to be some weight to get down to the water line....bath test me thinking, to find out how much ballast I need.
aye
john e
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She looks as if she has quite a beam John; I think you will be surprised at how much ballast she will need to get her down to the water line. I’m building an AHT at the moment and she is 55inchs long, I have had her in the tub for ballast checks and she takes 56lb to get her down to the water line. (I think I will name her Hernia.) {-) {-)
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Hai respected Friend...its a great craft and great work...thanks for sharing....
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rathikrishna hi there
thanks for the compliments but with respect to you my friend, you have brought truth to the saying "we have nothing broken - we just havent found another use for it' :-))
aye
john
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Hi there all
Quick update.
The inner bulwark supports have been made out of styrene and fitted.
The next job on the list is to plank the main deck using 4mm x 0.5mm strips of maple wood to represent the caulking I used a permanent felt tipped pen down the sides of each plank and then each plank was glued into position using PVA glue.
When the planking had finished and all the planks had dried out, I then levelled the planks with the aid of a Stanley knife blade without the holder – held it 90° to the deck planking and scraped along taking very fine shavings off. This was then rubbed down with a very light grade of sand paper. Next job in hand was to fit the safety bars across the openings of the storm ports. The storm ports will eventually have doors on the outside as well.
Now I am on with the tedious job of fitting the half round rubbing and protection bars on the outside of the hull. Couple of pics – see what you think.
Aye
John
bluebird
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nice works...
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%)
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hi ya all
Just an update here
aye
john
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Uff...
Mr Bluebird Sir...
You put us all to shame, i shall now hence forth and walk the plank for my feeble attempts at modelling.
Cracking work master now where's that yard arm...
:embarrassed:
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one of the earlier post when blubird sir put the wood circle on the prop the wood looked like bacon :-)) ;) ok2 %) :o :} :} :D O0 {-) %% 8) :P on a serious note though its looking amazing
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what! {-) ....laminated wooden bacon... %% ...next you be telling us that Bluebird will add a freshly cracked egg & have a bacon & egg propeller... :o ....Derek
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I would'nt mind a steak on the deck %% ummm yummy, damit!! im hungry for steak now >:-o >:-o >:-o
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Aye mind, she's looking bonny there John, will she be on show at Temple Park ??
Ray.
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hi ya all
nothing but the Danish Best Streaky back bacon was used for the korts nozzle :} fried to a crisp in the big frying pan; the rind was laminated with a bit tomato sauce and if you notice the egg yoke went into the glue and hence yellow glue %% %% %% cooked on medium heat for 5-10 mins followed with a healthy dollop of red sauce on the hull - next will be adding the steak, but, gotta have onion rings with much-rooms and ships
%% %%
aye
thanks for the comments there lads :-)) :-)) :-)) ;) ok2 :-) :} :}
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:-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
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Superb work there John, tis looking grand.
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hi ya - quick update progressing more with the superstructure; been working on the bridge and the aft deck.
The superstructure is all made from a variety of plywoods from 1/64 to 1/16 - bit slow going cos there are a lot of angles involved in it and I had one or two attempts at the bridge front, trying to get that angle right.
By the way I missed your post Tug Kenny earlier on. Sorry about that mate. But if you are ever in the North East you know you are more than welcome and it will be me learning from you mate.
aye
john
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Plywood ? You dinosaur !!
Looking good though John. :-))
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Hi there all,
Quick update:
Been busy with the bridge – fitting it out – glazing it, using clear CD cases for the glazing.
For the instruments inside, I have made them from balsa blocks covered with Plasticard and bits of copper wire.
Aye
john
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hi ya - the old dinosaur hear, quick update progressing more %%
aye
john
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Sloooow but sure John. Looking good now. :-))
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So that's why I haven't heard from you for a while - great job their John but your next one should be grey O0 O0 O0...
Martin doon under
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Thats a very nice looking trawler you have there :-) :-)
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Very nice, looking forward to more updates.
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Hi just a quick update on the build. I have been concentrating on the main derrick and booms all made from evergreen plastistrutt tubing – just for Dicky – to prove I am not a dinosaur – also I have put the washport doors here and slapped on a bit of warpaint {-)
Aye
john
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:-)) really really nice job.
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Nice to see you are joining the 21st century John.
Plastic indeed. :-))
Excellent job by the way. O0
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Really, really nice. You make it look so easy.
Have a nice weekend!
Hama.
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quick update; still busy working with plasticard producing/manufacturing the stern frame and net drum. i am perservering working with plasticard to try and improve my ability to work with it. A comment has been said i make it look easy; to be honest if someone said to me ‘have you a preference’ i would say ‘it’s not that i am stoneaged, but indeed that I prefer to work with nature's timbers – i feel as though i can shape and finish timber easier and much better than I am able to do with plasticard. one advantage i have found with the plasticard is the finish its quite easy such as painting – but then again with my painting there isn't much difference between the finish on plasticard after i have finished with it and roughcut timber.
see what you think.
aye
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hi ya - quick update progressing more with the superstructure; been working on the bridge and the aft deck. :-))
aye
john
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Another excellent build John, but when are we going to see Exeter O0 O0
Mdu
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A stunningly sharp build - but I can't over this image:
(http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=28028.0;attach=91153;image)
...just after you said you were going to fill the hull with body filler and coat it in tissue and glassfibre. I see the glassfibre and tissue (just). I don't see much filler. AT ALL. You got a considerably better pre-covering finish than I think I could ever get on a hull using my ten thumbs. {:-{
Lovely stuff! :-))
Andy
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hi all just a quick update to keep wor Dicky happy - he likes to see pic of boats you know - well been sticking railings on and the two fishing booms
aye
john
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Excellent my mate, almost like a real one, keep up the good work. :-))
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Really Nice Bluebird. - will it be at South Shields next month? I would like to see it in the flesh so to speak.
Geoff
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hi all, thanks for the comments, Geoff - I dont think the paint job is good enough to exhibit unless I issue everyone with dark welding glasses so you cant see the bad paint job. :(( I have another 2 models in for the show though.
aye
john
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Awesome work.
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hi all
well on the finishing stages now and experimenting with a bit of weathering making model look like a rusty owld heap to match the build quality 0nlything I can say personally anyone looking at the plan and considering making this I have found several errors in the plan itself - namely on the size of the frames on the body plan which dont correspond with the profile plan also the drawings for the bridge dont correspond size wise with the rest of the plans.
aye
john
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Excellent John, when are you going to start on the weathering my mate ? {-)