Hi allThat'll be why I couldn't find it then [wrong company] :-[
Here's the link for the Bismarck Kit/Magazine. It's published by Hachette publications.
http://www.hachettepartworks.co.uk/product.php?proID=1172137511
Regards Julian.
... and you will be on the water in 6 months NOT 3 years!
give westbourne or amodelworld a call and they will send you an aeronaught bizmark for half the price, leaving the other half to save and get RC gear for said aeronaught kit, and you will be on the water in 6 months NOT 3 years!
I believe that when it was rediscovered they found that the stern had broken off so maybe the spelling is correct... :D
I believe that when it was rediscovered they found that the stern had broken off so maybe the spelling is correct... :D
I suppose that if you missed one of the instalments, your model might end up the same way.
i`ve got the first issue and seems like a well made model if not expensive ? U can buy the titanic now from Amati for £350 , i think it cost £500 (100 issues at £5) . people have said thay might not finish the bismarck , 2.5 years is a long time, and anything can happen in publishing in that time, and that u can get a good model from elsware. The Aeronaught model looks pants from the pictures i`ve seen, so who makes the best ???
Make sure it is all there.
I bought a part works Titanic and the tops of the bulkheads were missing. ::)
I'm just waiting for the inevitable :D
Any one with a pocket calculator would avoid these magazines what ever they offer.
Bismark Magazines 140 magazines @ £4.99 = £698.60
Anyone who gets it has more money than sense
Harry potter chess set was the same you can go a buy one at a fifth the price
Hi there, I have a couple of questions
1) is the Bismarck going to be able to be radio controlled
2) somebody was saying the price was £350 for the Amati kit can you please tell me where did you found that out I looked and could not see a listing for the Amati kit not even there own website
3) I think the bismark on TV does look better than the aeronaut kit (with some allowances for a professional model builder)
I was just looking out of intrest, I went to buy issue 1 and as usual the local large newsagent was useless, how they are still in business is
beyond me so will have to go into the city to have a wee look
Colin
Holzbausatz Schlachtschiff Bismarck von Hachette,Ausgaben von 1 bis 23 Neu.Ein paar Ausgaben wurden nur zum Lesen geöfnet,die Holzteile sind alle unberührt geblieben.
Prrivatverkauf-ich übernehme keine Garantie,Umtausch oder Rückgabe nicht möglich.]Holzbausatz Schlachtschiff Bismarck von Hachette,Ausgaben von 1 bis 23 Neu.Ein paar Ausgaben wurden nur zum Lesen geöfnet,die Holzteile sind alle unberührt geblieben.
Prrivatverkauf-ich übernehme keine Garantie,Umtausch oder Rückgabe nicht möglich.
Wood is first class quality.
(NB: I've never built a wooden model before! )
Hi ammo,
Why do you recommend "removing the burned surface"?
There is no ash or the like and glue seems to stick very well.....
So! Alles in ordnung, mein kleiner Schiffbauer!
SUBJECT: KNITTING.K5/3097. ??? [No guarantee this is about the Bismarck]
Thank you for your e-mail dated: 30/04/2007.
I will like to confirm I have today requestd issues 4-6 to be sent out for
you. [not sent out, and there is no promise that they even exist]
I will like to advice unfortunately issue 7 is currently out of stock,
however this issue will be sent out for you as soon as we receive stock. [if they ever recieve any]
Kindly note issues 4-6 will be dispatched in due course. [no date, may also be out of stock]
Please accept my sincere apology for the late response.
:'([/left
Hi Martin...did you subscribe to the Magazine?? ...I have, only recieved parts 1,2,3,...recieved nothing since and believe its up to part 10 now...........Stu
Hi Stu,
Yep! All signed up but not impressed with the subscription / post dept!!
Still held up at issue 4.... for 3 weeks now! >:(:'([/left
Hi Martin...did you subscribe to the Magazine?? ...I have, only recieved parts 1,2,3,...recieved nothing since and believe its up to part 10 now...........Stu
Good point Cptn,
..... but you haven't seen the amount of glue I normally use!
By the end of this build, there will be a white waterproof PVA hull held together with a wooden skeleton! ::)
Martin
Hi Martin, On the glue issue a friend of mine, who builds full size boats for a living told me that as wood is cellular structure and most glues bind by penetrating this. The laser cutting in effect seals the cells and prevents penetration hence the week joints. Sounds reasonable I suppose. Anyway he told me this as he watched me build the St Canute and I did sand each edge and tested a few joints to make sure it was enough. It might be put to the test at the weekend. Graham :)A laser (obviously) cuts by burning. I suspect what is happening is that the laser is burning the wood to cut it and melting the glues between the plys at the same time, which then solidifies and 'seals' the wood. A standard wood glue then struggles to bond properly. A quick sanding should help matters.
Well I've just had another long and torturous conversation with http://www.hachettepartworks.co.uk/ (http://www.hachettepartworks.co.uk/) call centre in South Africa (?)
They are saying they are the "agents" for Hachett Part Works and cannot supply the magazines the same timing as the shops!
They say the shops (news agents etc.) receive the magazines before they do and the agents "seem to get the left overs" in my opinion.
I'm currently on issue 4, as below, but despite 2 phone calls to "Hachette" over the last month my next issues 5,6,7 & 8 have only been "allocated" 3 days ago?!?!?
I then asked 'how they propose for me to catch up?'
They said 'there is no way they can catch up with the shops.'
I said, 'OK, why don't you send me the current & future issues now and you can sort out the back issues as they become available?'
They said, 'No, they can't do that as they are "not on a par with the shops."
I said, ‘so there is no way I can catch up!’
…….”No.”
Make you own judgment........ :-\
Mine turned up too. 7,8,9,10 &11.
Daryl
Mine turned up too. 7,8,9,10 &11.
Reading some of the posts on buildthebismarck.co.uk some of the people there seem not to have built a kit before. Lots of strange posts in very bad english with weird ideas. I know we all have to start somewhere but alot of people don't seem to read the instructions before glueing things together. On there is a list of faults found in Germany which is months ahead of us, they are on something like part 38 odd. There is a rush to order the r/c bits from a couple of German suppliers. Jumping the gun??
Daryl
How come I only got parts 5,6 & 8 when you got parts 8,9, 10 AND 11 when they told me these were not available?!?!?!?
Ordered: 16 November 1935
Laid down: 1 July 1936
Launched: 14 February 1939
Commissioned: 24 August 1940
At this rate the 12in to the foot scale was quicker.
Daryl
I have just had a quick troll throught he web for r/c models for ther Bismarck at 1/200. It appears that they weigh around 10kg.
Junior and I too have the impression that the r/cc ideas was a last minute thing, but we like challengies and amati normally produce good quality kits. At least we can spread the cost over 3-4 years which has the approvial of swmbo.
Daryl
My hull seems pretty straight at the moment but I'll double check it on Monday.
I would agree that due to the nature of this beast, twists and warps can easily creep in.
So far, still impressed with the design, VERY unimpressed with the subscription service!
The Glue seems to be golding the unsanded laser cut edges quite well... I glued something that shouldn't have been!
I don't think I'll make mine RC as it will mean hacking the hull around something rotten which may effect something later on that I don't know about yet. I may put in two small shafts and motors once the planking is on. Does anyone know if the unaltered build has hatches or a removeable top?
Can you post the link to the Germain site/page where he converting to RC please.
Also, are the Germain issues slightly out from ours?
Martin.... But what do I know? ::)
No response here either from Amati or Hachette re the battery pack/charger & RC query.
So issue 23 for the RC set offer, ... no doubt there will be a lead time from the supplier.
Just noticed the clock on buildthebismarck.com forum is six or so hours ahead
I'm going to plank my Bismarck with a thick layer of dust ......
What are all these bits of wood for?!?! ::)
Nice idea but how many of thier so called free builds have ever been finished,well lets think a m8 of mine started to collect th bits from the same company to build the subaru rally cart what happened after x no of issues it was stopped I REST MY CASETotally untrue as the series ran its course to 55 issues ;)
Planking from the keel is not a good idea? Its the way its been done for hundreds of years?
I fear another "numpty " attack comming on ??? ??? ???
I'm building my Bismarck "as per instructions" ... something not natural to me! ::)
The instruction say, "First plank at the top."
I've also seen on the German builder sites that most builders are screwing the whole thing down with metal brackets! ... not me! :o
I'll be going around afterwards with a fine water sprayer, damping down the hull and twisting it back into shape... or lots of filler! ;)
Markus, what's that stick of dynamite polystyrene in the centre of you hull??!??
Hi Marki
A nice looking build you have there, I agree with your comments on this model not being recommended as a first wooden ship project and your spot on about the need for experience to install 3 motors and all it involves.
I'am curious, what exactly do you mean when you say your model is sealed and had a successful maiden voyage?
In your last photos the resin bow is not in place and the prop shafts/props do not appear to have been secured, also the hull outer & inner skin's appear to be bare wood, what did you use to seal the hull inner/outer surface's to make this maiden possible?
John
... after reading the post '..numpty attack..' i'm playing with the thought of stopping posting in this forum
cheers
markus
Hi Markus, sorry about that. The forum is a bit of a free-for-all and member can have pretty rigid ideas about certain things.
I hope you will stick with us on this forum.... I need all the help I can get with the Bismarck build!
When do I start sanding the planking?
Is the 2nd layer of planking offset to the first?
Do You have your own website?
Martin.
PS. Thanks Jan..... I have no idea what that said but I'm sure it was something positive.
Marki
Any chance of a photo of your build up to issue 43 just so we can see what to expect by that stage?...we are only at issue 19 in the UK
Thanks
John
When do I start sanding the planking?
Is the 2nd layer of planking offset to the first?
When do I start sanding the planking?
Is the 2nd layer of planking offset to the first?
Just a small hint when you do start to sand use a block of wood, I use self adhesive paper but thats because I have problems holding but it makes it easier, or just wrap it around the block , It stops you getting "voids" and makes it flow without hollows, you will have to do some by hand but have a straight edge handy to check its flat.
unless it says different in the instructions.
Peter
Martin.
PS. Thanks Jan..... I have no idea what that said but I'm sure it was something positive.
I had a look last night to try to find pictures of the German Titanic but couldn't find any. I wonder if he got it to work, I ahve only seen a couple of R/C Titanics one at 1/144 and the Weymouth model at about 3-4 ft long, both were a bit unstable when turning and both owners didn't sail them when it was choppy. Titanic does not seem to convert to r/c well with a narrow beam.
Daryl
I like that Markus, really good, especially the last picture, best 'lit up ship' shot I've ever seen, we need more proper modellers contributing to this forum. Puzzled why you put smoke in that 4th funnel though, I suppose you know that it was only a ventilator on the full size Titanic?
i know it was only a vent, but i liked the look of 4 steaming funnels...
markus
Good hsots of the Titanic, ihave jsut returned from weymouth where I had the chance to talk to a guy who adapted the amati Titanic. How well does yours sail any pictures?. How much of the original hull did you use. Does it float on the waterline, how does it react to side winds? It looks like you only used 2 motors any reason why not 3.
The one I saw today had fibre optic scuttles and the centre keel was removed and the inside of the hull coated with fibre glass, He didn't sail it due the the wind conditions, in fact in turns with all 3 motors it does lean over dramaticaly. A good model but not a stable one, but reasonably quick.
Daryl
...and what do you have playing from the speaker ;)
are you having another go at the Mantua kit, are you going to use all of their option packs as there have been questions over the accuracy of their parts. Are you going for their option 3 kit or doing your own thing. The guy I had a long talk to at weymouth mentioned it was not the best kit he'd seen but an eyecatcher.
Daryl
Hi Martin. I think you are getting to be a real planker ;) and it looks really good. From my limited experience with a static Santa Maria and the recent St Canute it was planking down to the keel that worked for me. The real tricky/interesting/frustrating bit was tapering the planks at the bow and stern to fit correctly. Have you had to do any of that yet? Cheers Graham
Hi Graham,
I working on the bow planking at the moment, very tricky! :P
I've just ordered a set (10) of these off ebay.....
Marki- did you manage to locate a grp hull for your Titanic or are you buuilding one of wood?
DAryl
Hi marki,
would that cause problems in getting the deck and other bits to fit. Peter Hann does a 1/144 grp hull as its bigger it might be more stable. I thought the double planking would add extra weight were it is not needed above the waterline. Hasn't the mantua kit got a centre keel which goes up to the main deck level like the amti version?
Daryl
Marki
Did'nt you say your post on the spec of your Titanic that you used the complete hull provided by Mantua, do you mean as in grp?.... as you now say it is double planked
The Matua detail says it is a single planked kit, so what I think Daryl is getting at is that by adding a 2nd layer of planks does this not cause a probem with the fit of other parts?
Double planking for the RC version has to be bette than a single plank was just wondering how you arrived at doing it as the matua kit is one I would consider if I bought a Titanic kit, presumably it is much better than the Amati one?
as long as they are solid and will sand to the correct shape leave em,there is another layer to go on isn't there?
Peter
Butt joints, not staggering
... one advantage in building in wood is that you can recover from almost anything - believe me, I know!
Mornin' all
Thanks Herby I'll look that up ( http://www.drydockmodels.com/planking/ ) but it doesn't appear to be working at the moment! Not glued between the planks yet......... but I'll just check the instructions again!!! ::)
Kayem, when you advised against using filler is that because the differing hardnesses between the filler and wood could lead to high spots when sanding down?
Thanks Daryl....... more abuse...... ;)
I'm going to use that deluxe materials super Aliphatic to glue the planks.
It's very thin and penertraiting - http://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/system/index.html
They also think that by applying just paint on the outside it should be enough to waterproof it. Are you still going to build by the book Martin?
Daryl
I can't possibly comment on what is going to happen, to protect my sources of information, just keep an eye on the UK issues. This build is NOT for the novice builders as Hachette advertised.
Daryl
... gum paper strip and shellac for a planked hull ..... as it is good way of simulating hull plating as well as covering any tendency of the planking underneath to crack open. Takes a super finish too.
its nice to know what is going to happen ;D ;D, read carefully what Hachette send. Issue 21 is only the tip of the iceburg. Still not long to wait.
I am not commenting on deviating from hachette's instructions just make sure you know what you and they are doing.
Daryl
Best solution to avoid that huge crack, at shorter strips, is to cut them different leinght. Lets say that first strip is 40cm, second is 30cm, 3th is 20cm, 4th is 10cm and 5th is again 40cm, 6th 30cm and so-on... Only problem when u make full lenght strips is that front and end have huge tension(is tension right word?) and middle at strip can rip of at bulkhead. Try avoid long strips. Specially at firts planking. If u plank second layer, whit thinner strips, this is not so big deal.
Best solution to avoid that huge crack, at shorter strips, is to cut them different leinght. Lets say that first strip is 40cm, second is 30cm, 3th is 20cm, 4th is 10cm and 5th is again 40cm, 6th 30cm and so-on... Only problem when u make full lenght strips is that front and end have huge tension(is tension right word?) and middle at strip can rip of at bulkhead. Try avoid long strips. Specially at firts planking. If u plank second layer, whit thinner strips, this is not so big deal.
i know - that's why i used those long strips only for the 2nd planking
markus
Marki
Would you know if any more problems have come to light in the latest issues out in Germany?
I agree but they were saying it caused other problems further down the line.
Must say I'm surprised at the Deluxe Materials Aliphatic resin, doesn't seem that strong....
Guess your right Daryl, :-[
I
I get some Evostick weather resistant this weekend.
My Motors have arrive from Marki53 & Germany!
Thanks Mark..... and you even get a bag of sweets!
How's that for service! ;D
So basically the main point is that the chopping out of the model to accomodate a third motor will weaken it and also explains why they opted for a two motor design
I'm thinking of a liberal coat of PVA glue inside the hull or even Fibreglass or Epoxy resin..... anyone know what Hatchette say in later issues?
First stupid question, is aliphatic wood glue and resin the same thing?
First stupid question, is aliphatic wood glue and resin the same thing?
::)
Difficult to see how this is a tried and tested setup for this kit, Germany only had the bow piece in issue 43, they are on issue 47. Thats a bit quick to glue it and then state its tried and tested, for how long? I thought his kit was going on for 140 issues?
wouldn't it be a good idea to support local model shops where possible. Your list stated you used 3 graupner 2307.30L props and 3 2307.30 props that equals six, fast boat?
couplings from George turner models £4.50 x2 = £9
Graupner speed 400 from George turner models £6.45 x 2 = £12.90
shafts x 2 from Gerge turner models £4.50 = £9
3 props from George turner £2.50 each = £7.50
Total £38.40 + max £4 p+p
60 euros at the current excange rate equals £40
I think I know who I would support. But as you said each to their own
... "buy or don't buy"
Handling with or without bow is the same, only the waves coming from the bow look a little different
i never said that the (graupner) parts hachette used are rubbish, it's just HOW they made a drive of it. look at the pics of their drive built in - this looks horrible
the sealing is sandable, so i won't have any problems gluing the shaft supports or other parts afterwards
that's the reason why i didn't paint the hull by now - this would make things more difficult.
Knowing them you will end up with a flood of mags up to issue 24 next week
Martin
Is the foc press review freeby a recent event, only I think we were all under the impression that you were funding your subscription out of your own pocket as this is what your post suggest on page 5 of this topic ;)
..... I only came here to build a toy boat........ ::)
It was more the build method that was of interest to me, plus I never built a warship.
... the Bismarck is famous everywhere!
Better to have too much power and throttle back rather than having to run flat out all the time..... it's called "anti duck speed"...... because it's not legal to make the guns work! ::)
Your service sounds too good to be true ;)
Better to have too much power and throttle back rather than having to run flat out all the time..... it's called "anti duck speed"...... because it's not legal to make the guns work! ::)
Well I scummed and rang Hachette today, all sorted, magazines are on their way...... eta 3 or 4 weeks
Well I scummed and rang Hachette today, all sorted, magazines are on their way...... eta 3 or 4 weeks ???
Well I scummed and rang Hachette today, ???
Well I scummed and rang Hachette today, ???
Bad but surely not that bad ;D
Marki: What issue are you up to?
Martin.
Martin
Just a thought, would it not be wise to mount your ply motor blocks in a way so that the motors can be removed if need be shoud one of them dies a death?
As if you simply epoxy the mount blocks into place on the hull getting a motor out could well be a nightmare ;)
Martin
Just a thought, would it not be wise to mount your ply motor blocks in a way so that the motors can be removed if need be shoud one of them dies a death?
As if you simply epoxy the mount blocks into place on the hull getting a motor out could well be a nightmare ;)
Martin
Just a thought, would it not be wise to mount your ply motor blocks in a way so that the motors can be removed if need be shoud one of them dies a death?
As if you simply epoxy the mount blocks into place on the hull getting a motor out could well be a nightmare ;)
no problem, motors are simply screwed to the bracket
already had to dismount the motors for treating the inside of the hull with pore filler...
cheers
markus
The scews that secure the motor's to the ply blocks might be hard to access with a screw driver as then run horizontally and not vertically, not much room between the servo rib and the screw head, maybe 3" at most but suppose it can be done ;)
The scews that secure the motor's to the ply blocks might be hard to access with a screw driver as then run horizontally and not vertically, not much room between the servo rib and the screw head, maybe 3" at most but suppose it can be done ;)
i use a shortened screwdriver for that
but i'ts still a bit fiddy...
markus
Just thumbing through the pile of magazines that have arrived this week, (thanks for sorting that Isabelle), and found the RC pack previously mentioned in this thread, the rudder set up is different for the RC version.
One question I do have for you, the actual ship has eyebrows on the Hull above the Bow & Stern Portholes, it seems from your photo that Amati have not included this detail on the model, is that correct or would you know if this detail is to be done by the builder, or if Amati are to provide something to give this detail?
My view is that these should be on the model as it is a detail of the model being accurate is it not?
They also seem to be taking some liberties with the stern design and shaft alignment for the working model which I wouldn't be too happy about - it's a bit too close to the old practice of adding a bit to the hull depth to improve stability for my liking and means that the model will not look accurate when out of the water.
as for the unscale depth of the hull, when a model is on the water who really notices it? the bow thurusters on the sydney star kit at 1/200th are about 2x overscale!
Maybe you'll find that, having bandaged up the inside of the boat, they'll suggest you paint a Red Cross on the foredeck instead of a Swastika! ;)
Hello gentlemen,There is cbr900 and bigfella from Oz, just two who spring to mind.
I'm new to the forum. Just placed my order for the Bismarck series after reading the comments from all of you. Expecting my first delivery of parts soon. Is anyone on this forum from Australia ?
Brian from Melbourne , Australia.
Yeah then come down to earth thinking about the naff UK weather :(Nothing wrong with our weather, the suns shining and not a cloud in the sky. 8)
yes brain
my name is Adam and i am up in north queensland.
I too am expecting my first shipment soon to can't wait.
where abouts in melb you from.
Not good is it :'(
I wonder if Amati have really thought this one through as in how customers will manage to do it right as I bet loads wont which then makes the task pointless!
Dicky - is it waterproof??
Have you thought about a watered down coat over the scrim just to hold it, 50/50 with water . when dry give it the coat to seal/stiffen it.
Peter
And the bow extremity is where the concern lies as no info in the mag re sealing it, the only way is via any initiative you come up with yourself otherwise this part will remain unsealed and at risk ;)
Bin the PVA & Guaze :'(
Glattfix here we come O0
if the outside is water proof then why worry so much about the inside?
cover the outside in resin and thin cloth, same as the aircraft folks.
that way water is not going to get in.
colin
I agree that cleaning cloth idea, very innovative O0
I hear the first Titanic series made into a nice boat once ballasted correctly.
These guys dont think so and plenty more where this came from......
http://titanic-model.com/dc/dcboard.php?az=show_mesg&forum=100&topic_id=11937&mesg_id=11937&listing_type=search
http://titanic-model.com/dc/dcboard.php?az=show_mesg&forum=100&topic_id=11937&mesg_id=18209&page=
you said you could not get glue in the first section how about drilling a small hole on top and filling a syringe with glue (may need to be thinned a bit ) and squeeze it in .
Peter
Martin might I suggest using this PVA . Have used it in 1:1 boat construction.
UniBond Super PVA Adhesive & Sealer
Safe & Simple to use, UniBond Super PVA Adhesive & Sealer is the toughest, fastest, strongest and longest lasting PVA you can buy.
Use UniBond Super PVA for
· Bonding
· Woodworking
· Hobbies & Crafts
· General Repair
· Priming Old Porous or Dusty Surfaces
· Priming Gloss Paint to Take Wallpaper
· Stiffening Fabrics
Available in following sizes
· 250ml Tin
· 500ml Tin
· 1ltr Can
· 2.5ltr Can
· 4lt Jerry Can
· 5ltr Can
Apply one coat to wood. When tacky apply fabric then recoat with PVA. O0
http://www.makingdiyeasier.co.uk/unibond/pdf/pva.pdf
Martin are you going to fit the plastic bits before you put the second layer of planks on ,that way you can plank up to the plastic bits.:( :(I am a new member 2nd oct logged in for the first time. Harold Waters, was a submariner been retired since 1983. I do not know how to make my first contribution so I just used the above quote to send my message. I am so dissapointed with Bismarck. I was always able to finish in 3 weeks four issues. But the latest issues 28th Sept arrived were completed by 1st oct. They were an insult. Even though retired I have a very busy life, I was not sat at the model allday. So I have cancelled. It took a long time for me to speak to Hatchette there was a long queue I WONDER WHY? Cheers Muddy >:(
Peter
It would seem that the Australian supplier is not much better than Hachettes (Gordon and Gotch), I ordered this model 6 weeks ago and as yet have still not received the first issue, one would think these companies would get there acts together and process orders promtly, and at least start off by trying to satisfy customers, but I will stick it out and wait and complain.............
Roy
Hi Gerry,Memo: The First Sea Lord
I drilled a couple of holes ave used "Super 'Phatic'" (thin sticky PVA) in the 4 bow compartments..... just do what HS93 says! O0
You could try photocoping the parts if possible, then you could cup out and reproduce in almost any size or material.... might be breech of copyright though.
I have read every post on this build and at different sections all have stated to build light if possible, so far what I have received in the packs is almost double the weight of the balsa, so therefore it must be lighter and should sail better..
As for not having the strength, I fail to see why not, as it will be built the same and double planked in balsa then given fibreglass matt and resin on the hull which I would be doing whether it is ply or balsa, I have yachts which are A Class built entirely from balsa and are 1.8 metres long and have been happily sailing them for years with no problems, so I think the strenght issue is non existant.........
Roy
I am far happier with the building, problem solving of a model than sailing them. In fact after a couple of times sailing and checking that the model does what I intended it to do I loose interest in it and either sell it or burn it and start again on a new project!!
Looks like that Jamara rubbish... >:(
hi , elmo that was very intresting reading.
Ebay - unfinished bismarck battleship which i subscribed to hachette partworks
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/build-the-bismarck-battleship-kit_W0QQitemZ200187243549QQihZ010QQcategoryZ1189QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting
Ebay - unfinished bismarck battleship which i subscribed to hachette partworks
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/build-the-bismarck-battleship-kit_W0QQitemZ200187243549QQihZ010QQcategoryZ1189QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting
Martin - Have you come across this?
http://modelwarshipsuk.informe.com/forum/build-the-bismarck-dt350.html
As for a starter model, This is where hachette made there only massive mistake (my opinion). It was obvious from issue 1, that it is not for anyone who has not built this type of model before.
I should get on with the 2nd planking asap Martin..... it takes a bloomin age to do :-\
I should get on with the 2nd planking asap Martin..... it takes a bloomin age to do :-\
.... Ah, just what I need, a good bit of positive encouragement. :-\
How is the Bismarck build going on the other sites?
Martin ;)
PS. Of to Ally Pally Engineering show tomorrow.
though god knows why i am going again this year.
was on the other last night and gain this morning was ok then
I seem to have lost this site as wellIts still there Jock http://forum.drydockmodels.com/ O0
http://forum.drydockmodels.com/
It is an Australia Uk thingy
Jim
Anyone seen this U Tube clip, best {-) I have had in ages!
http://de.youtube.com/watch?v=-zHD2UdeHMI (http://de.youtube.com/watch?v=-zHD2UdeHMI)
Anyone seen this U Tube cliip, best {-) I have had in ages!
http://de.youtube.com/watch?v=-zHD2UdeHMI
Part 100 was in mine.do you now any one that got part 28 just cant find it any were please help
Finished part 32 tonight, this superstructure is never ending
Jock
Thanks, MD, but all I can glean from that fuzzy PDF is that the motors are "Graupner Spe". They make quite a few of these and they are bewilderingly and annoyingly all slightly different. Can you be a sweetie-pie and add the missing number and Voltage, please?
http://www.buildthebismarck.co.uk/bismarckoffer.pdf (http://www.buildthebismarck.co.uk/bismarckoffer.pdf)
How's your German?
Can you tell me a bit more about the Glatfix stuff, what it's like?
Web site info?
Nice to see some progress Martin - are you enjoying the planking ;)
How do these guys build these double diagonal planked hulls?
If I remember correctly you're going to need the larger of the two stern resin pieces. The smaller one and the filler wood piece leave the anchor recess in the wrong spot.
Have fun. O0
Hello,
Ah! The (net).....
The piece of bow supplied with France is everything made correct. She corresponds in thickness to both line.
Good construction.
I believe that when it was rediscovered they found that the stern had broken off so maybe the spelling is correct... :D
I suppose that if you missed one of the instalments, your model might end up the same way.
Make sure it is all there.
I bought a part works Titanic and the tops of the bulkheads were missing. ::)
I'm just waiting for the inevitable :D
Are they going to do a battlecruiser?
I'm at the painting stage, now, I'm NOT doing the 'stripey thing', plain 'ole grey, now which one??. I've opted for 'medium grey' and I have 'airbrushed' all the brass bits that I have completed so far, but I'm beginning to think that I should have used a 'light sea grey'instead. Can somebody put me right before I reach a point of no return...please???...Dave
You mean I can't paint mine Metallic Tahitian Blue ?!?! <:(Why not Martin, it would look beeeeeuuuutiful O0 {-)
I ran off to my local supplier of 'Humbrol' paints and purchased 2 tins of 'light grey matt 76' and after giving it a 'trial run',...
I found in a couple of instances that the light grey wouldn't cover the darker grey, but it actually looked quite good...instant used look!! Anyway, I thought, I'd better fix it,as I want the ship to look 'relatively new' So I decided to use my 'fibre glass pen', this took off a layer of fine paint/dust (?) leaving a quite clean but 'streaky' light grey, and I thought that looked even better! I then rubbed the thing with my finger, this put a light sheen on the paintwork,and I thought, wow, this is even better still!!
G'day all, thanks TCC, but the colour is definately 'matt 76', says it on the lid!! So continuing on, I got all the brass that I was'nt satisfied with and using the 'fibre pen' cleaned everything up and resprayed it. I'm adding a Dark gray/black line at the base of All cabin and bulkhead structures, tried masking it, pulled the paint off, so I ended up using a 'Fine Compact Disc/ CD black marker to do this with a 90% 'that's the very fellow' and a 10% 'that'll no dae' rate!!, ("spray it again Sham!!)
Unfortunately, this leaves a sort of 'reddish blue sheen' when the light hits it from a certain angle, but when the 'Satin Varnish' is applied, it goes away!!, so I'm quite happy with the result, and it's a lot quicker than doing it 'freehand' with a paint brush!! ...Dave
P/S, "Velcom", Xaro!!........don't be afraid to ask questions, the guys on this Forum' will be only to glad to help you out...we've all been where you are, just remember, there's no hurry, read your instructions, deviate if you must, finding a way is what it's about..your the man!!
Colin, that tape sounds the biz... what is it exactly? What is it used for? Is it a thinner version of 'pinstripe' tapes you used to get for cars in the 80s? If it's just a 'sticky back', it will need a varnish over it to keep it firmly on over the years, I'd think. Cheers mate.
"Hmmm", I'm thinking it was more like an 'Aircraft carrier', that's what mine is at the moment, with a spitfire on it's deck!......Dave
Interesting point Eric65, need to look out for that, but I might be OK as I did my planking round the 'armour belt' from bow to stern in a very different way to the 'AMATI' instructions, but as I haven't quite reached the 'decking point' as yet,I don't know how it will be, but I'm hoping it will be OK! Obviously, you must be a wee bit further ahead in your construction, thanks for the 'pointer' in any case!
How did you find other parts of the ' laser cut' decking??, I've only 'dry fitted' one deck and that was a hit and miss affair!....Dave.
I'm thinking the same thing 'down below', with decking in place, handrails,etc ect 'wow!! If anybody says it wont be a bother, I think I'd be tad inclined NOT to believe them!! I'm taking the easy way out, and NOT doing the 'Camo'.......Dave.
Just got back from seeing my Father in Jamaica so hope to make a restart soon. MartinWelcome back to the madhouse! %%
I think the Jamaica navy still have galleons!
I think the Jamaica navy still have galleons!
Are we to assume that Martin has pulled the plug?
.... I'm letting the wood hull season... mature.... age!
.... I'm letting the wood hull season... mature.... age!
or fossilize ? ;D
Well finaly after many centuries of waiting they have token of the money from my bankaccount
now lets hope that the engines will get here faster ;D
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q168/MBmayhem/Bismarck/PICT1256.jpg)
Cheers for the welcome,by the way,Peter.
Mark is correct Martin, it does seem very strange to have a gun mounted on a gun,
never seen it before or heard of it, tossing up whether to attach it or not..........
Roy
Anyone going to build this?
http://www.model-space.co.uk/ships/battleship-yamato
Hi Richard,
Have you seen my "build"? - http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=4024.msg39250#msg39250
I thought you might like to see a 1:100 Bismark sailing on Albert Park lake last weekend.
(Yes, where the Australian GP takes place and TF 72 sail)
Not quite finished but it apparently took 42 days to get to this stage by a first time builder.
We did tell him that it is supposed to take years to build a battleship but he thought he could finish it in another week.
Absolutly fantastic paint finish and the electrics etc. were beautiful to see.
If the full size ship had the speed and manouverability of the model she would never have been caught!
He is planning a whole fleet including an Anzac frigate and several other battleships in the next year.
42 days?!? - That Krishna territory! ok2
Loads have been finish and some to a very high standards!
See: http://www.partworkmodels.co.uk/phpBB3/
Ah! You're fitting an armour belt! ok2
Did you not fit one on yours Martin {-)
Did you not fit one on yours Martin {-)
Ah! You're fitting an armour belt! ok2
BTW Why all the verification checks?
i uploaded the Wrong Photo, the photo i posted of Bismark is the hull im completing AS the Bismark as per the original instructions ( albiet with R/c and perhaps lighting )
if i am to R/c it, i will have to dremel the deck off ( and im not looking forward to THAT ) and then perhaps worse, drill a hole for the Prop Shafts.
how would i go about drilling holes into the completed hull for the propshafts ? and does anyone who has R/c their Bismark know what Propshafts i will need
i will try to get some photos of the other hull, so show just how bad she is ( there is a part of me that thinks she may be beyond salvage )