Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Submarines => Topic started by: silent running556 on March 10, 2011, 01:48:33 pm
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Can anyone advise me on a reliable equiverlent to STABILIT EXPRESS or 1 SHOT CYANO glue please?
Also, is there a way to get a paint in another make than the original RAL 7038 and 7042?
Thanks guys.
ps. Any greeses or pastes etc would also be useful. :-))
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try here Both Stabilit express and UHU Plus acrylit 2 stocked also other abs glues. having used both stabilit and UHU i can reccomend either
http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/abs_glues.html (http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/abs_glues.html)
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try here Both Stabilit express and UHU Plus acrylit 2 stocked also other abs glues. having used both stabilit and UHU i can reccomend either
http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/abs_glues.html (http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/abs_glues.html)
I believe he wanted alternatives, may I ask why ?
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UHU plus acrylic 2 is an alternative :-))
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Can anyone advise me on a reliable equiverlent to STABILIT EXPRESS or 1 SHOT CYANO glue please?
Also, is there a way to get a paint in another make than the original RAL 7038 and 7042?
Thanks guys.
ps. Any greeses or pastes etc would also be useful. :-))
If it is of any use to you i have a copy of the original Kriegsmarine paint codes and descriptions for the U-Boats..
Thanks
Russ
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Acrylic glues are just expensive, period. But they're ace glues, as they stick just about anything.
As mentioned in the Dive-in thread, alternatives include Devcon Plastic Welder, Deluxe Materials Fusion and Kevin mentioned the Uhu acrylic adhesive whose name slipped my mark one memory bank.
All of these will form bonds stronger than the material they're adhering to, and are waterproof. They do pong a bit though, until fully cured.
Andy
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UHU plus acrylic 2 is an alternative :-))
1. The local shops don't stock this stuff.
2. The price, surely other manufacturers can match this glue can't they?
Thanks Mr h btw.
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I've made my u-boat stand {-)as long as nothing heavier than dust sits on it it'll be fine. :P
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If it is of any use to you i have a copy of the original Kriegsmarine paint codes and descriptions for the U-Boats..
Thanks
Russ
Oooooooh, any piccies? :D
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Acrylic glues are just expensive, period. But they're ace glues, as they stick just about anything.
As mentioned in the Dive-in thread, alternatives include Devcon Plastic Welder, Deluxe Materials Fusion and Kevin mentioned the Uhu acrylic adhesive whose name slipped my mark one memory bank.
All of these will form bonds stronger than the material they're adhering to, and are waterproof. They do pong a bit though, until fully cured.
Andy
I've seen the Devcon plastic welder and a couple of fusion ones, not worried about the pong, just do the honourable thing and blame it on the dog as usual. :embarrassed:
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You must feed your dog some funny grub if it smells like that!
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Well i'd never eat my own cooking. 8)
ps. Blame isn't the same as guilt. :}
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Hi,
If I may
If I were you i would use the recommended glue ie stabilit as it is recommended for a reason... ie it works and lasts .
I have used it on both my type V11 and XX1
Also for grease use the Robbe prop shaft grease as again its recommended for a reason. ie its good stuff and low drag.
don't sink the ship for halfpenny of Tar !
Regards Sub.
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9 times out of 10 a manufacturer recommends a product simply because they, themselves, distribute it. As in the case of Stablit Express and their own propshaft grease. One of our members has built a number of Robbe subs and always used Devcon Plastic Welder, it has a shorter shelf life once opened but does stick to the proverbial blanket.
Saying that, Stablit Express is one of those 'old school' glues that does do the job, its just expensive for what you get.
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One of the advantages of Stablit Express is in addition to bonding the plastic, it can also be uses as a filled to reinforce joints, acts as a gap filler and bond in prop shafts. Is also easily sanded and drillable once cured.
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To the above.
Yes AND it will stck most dissimilar materials to each other.............. you pays your money and takes your chance !.
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. I'm about to start on the bulkhead compartment section on a Robbe version of this boat and the recommended batteries are 6v 5ah, if were to use different batteries would this mean moving these bulkhead dividers in advance? I still need batteries, rc and paint.
The original batteries in that model are large lead acid. If you were to use Ni-MH, Lipo or A123 Lithium-iron phosphate batteries, then you will probably find they take up less room, as the energy density of all these battery technologies is considerably highly than lead acid cells.
I wouldn't go so far as to say you need to modify the bulkheads, you will certainly need to make up some sort of tray to hold them in place. A lot of people convert these boats to static divers using an engel piston tank, the battery is relocated to nearer to the bow in this instance.
A company called Piranha Modellbau manufacture a very solidly engineered tech rack that makes this conversion almost a nut and bolt job. Unfortunately their newer website seems to be very sparse on information (the old one had lots of details and pictures), so I'm not sure about current availability if this idea appeals.
http://www.modelluboot.eu/index.htm
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You will have to remember you will need to add extra lead as ballast because the original batteries also act as ballest in the sub
Regards Mark
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thanks for the info guys, i've decided to keep to the original plan and have ordered two of the Robbe ones after all. I want it to float and dive like a floaty divey thing. 8)
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You're still going to need to add ballast to dive, they sit too highg in the water to dive satisfactorily when built out of the box.
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You havn't seen my build quality have you. :D {-)